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—1. ANALITYCAL
2. SAFETY IN VIVO—
—3. IN VITRO TESTING
4. EFFICACY—
—5. PRODUCT TEST-SELF PERCEPTION EFFICACY
6. SENSORY ANALYSIS—
—7. QUALITATIVE RESEARCH
. R&D SUPPORT SERVICES
. RAW MATERIAL ANALYTICAL PROFILE
. FINISHED PRODUCT ANALYTICAL PROFILE
. MICROBIOLOGY
1.ANALYTICAL
. R&D SUPPORT SERVICES:
NEOTRON 40 years’ experience in a-nalytical chemistry and testing has been transferred to analyzing raw materials and formulation characterization in order to support regulatory compliance (EU REGU-LATION 1223/2009).
The Analytical research department is com-mitted to discovering new applications for the technologies together with the state-
of-art methods.
. RAW MATERIAL ANALYTICAL PROFILE
Specific protocols have been set up for co-smetic ingredient evaluation in terms of method development, validation and testing to ensure raw materials meet specifications (pesticides, impurities, contaminants), to analyze the ingredients controlled by the legislation (preservatives, formaldehyde, fragrance, allergens, surfactants, acti-ves, vitamins, residual solvents) and check common contaminants frequently found in cosmetics (heavy metals, 1,4 dioxane, NDELA (nitrosamine), phtalates).
. FINISHED PRODUCT ANALYTICAL PROFILE
Analytical control strategy is based on for-mula evaluation which allows us to develop:
• ANALYTICAL PROFILE • SAFETY LABORATORY TESTING (contaminants & controlled substances) • MICROBIOLOGY QUALITY CONTROL SERVICES • STABILITY TEST (shelf life, accelerated tests) • PACKAGING TESTING
Ingredients and final products are analyzed using the most advanced techniques (GC-MS-MS, LC-MS-MS, Q-TOF, HPLCs, HPLC with UV, ICP-MS, ICP-OES, HR-GC-MS, Real
time PCR, MALDI-TOF).
. MICROBIOLOGY
Microbiological quality control is carried out according to updated official methods (ISO, EU/US pharmacopeia, CTFA, etc.) to ensure microbiological stability and quality:
• TOTAL AEROBIC MICROBIAL COUNT (TAMC) • TOTAL YEAST AND MOLD COUNT (TYMC) • DETECTION OF CANDIDA ALBICANS • DETECTION OF ESCHERICHIA COLI • DETECTION OF PSEUDOMONAS AERUGINOSA • DETECTION OF STAPHYLOCOCCUS AUREUS
. PATCH TEST 48H
. PATCH TEST 72H —HYPOALLERGENICITY
. TOLERABILITY TEST FOR THE PERIOCULAR AREA
2.SAFETY — IN VIVO
. PATCH TEST 48H
Patch testing is performed on a panel of healthy volunteers with normal or sensitive skin according to client needs.
The occlusive application of the product is followed by a clinical evaluation 24 hours after Curatest F application (30 minutes after patch removal) and 48 hours after Cu-ratest F application (24 hours after patch removal). The clinical assessment of skin ir-ritation is made by a dermatologist.
FOR WHICH CLAIM?
• DERMATOLOGICALLY TESTED • CLINICALLY TESTED • NON IRRITANT FOR THE SKIN • FOR SENSITIVE SKIN • TESTED UNDER MEDICAL SUPERVISION
Other possible methods are semi-occlusive patch test and Open patch test according to the nature of the sample tested.
. PATCH TEST 72H/HYPOALLERGENICITY
The skin reactions will be read by a derma-tologist 24, 48 and 72 hours after chambers' removal.
FOR WHICH CLAIM?
• HYPOALLERGENIC: FORMULATED TO MINIMIZE THE RISK OF ALLERGIES • DERMATOLOGICALLY TESTED • CLINICALLY TESTED • NON IRRITANT FOR THE SKIN • FOR SENSITIVE SKIN • TESTED UNDER MEDICAL SUPERVISION
. TOLERABILITYTEST FOR THEPERIOCULAR AREA
This methods consist in a in-use tolerance study in the periocular area under medical supervision. The test is realized only if the examinated product turns to be not irritating after the patch testing performed on sensi-tive skin. A clinical evaluation of the perio-cular area of each volunteer will be done by dermatologist before and after the in-use test and its duration will dipend on product’s type.
FOR WHICH CLAIM?
• TESTED ON PERIOCULAR AREA • HIGH TOLERABILITY EYE AREA PRODUCT • DERMATOLOGICALLY TESTED • CLINICALLY TESTED • NON IRRITANT FOR THE SKIN • FOR SENSITIVE SKIN • TESTED UNDER MEDICAL SUPERVISION
. SAFETY ASSESSMENT
. EFFICACY ASSESSMENT
3.IN VITRO TESTING
. VITROTESTING
In vitro testing offers an effective alternati-ve method to animal testing and it is a valid approach to support cosmetic companies in meeting regulatory requirements (EU co-smetic regulation 1223/2009).
. SAFETYASSESSMENT
In vitro safety tests are performed to con-firm skin biocompatibility in personal and skin care product as well as their in-gredients. The principal test methods are cell-based (skin equivalent) which allow to demonstrate the following effects:
• BIOCOMPATIBILITY • CYTOTOXICITY • SIMPLE CELL VIABILITY ASSAY (MTT AND/OR NRU)
• MEMBRANE INTEGRITY TEST
. EFFICACYASSESSMENT
Efficacy in vitro testing allows the evalua-tion of the potential effect of end products and ingredients during the products’ deve-lopment, as a support of marketing claims and as an integrated approach with in vivo testing for the following efficacy claim:
• REGENERATING • ELASTICITY • ANTI-CELLULITE • ANTI-INFLAMMATORY • ANTI-OXIDANT • ANTI-OXIDATIVE STRESS AGAINST
FREE RADICALS PROTECTION DNA
. IMAGE ANALYSIS
. OCT (OPTICAL COHERENCE
TOMOGRAPHY, SKINTELL)
. REFLECTANCE CONFOCAL MICROSCOPY (RCM)
. SPECIFIC INSTRUMENTAL STUDIES
4.EFFICACY
NEOTRON provides specific protocol eva-luation for both raw material and finished product in order to suggest or demonstrate marketing claim according to INCI experti-se.
Cosmetic legislation requires evidence sup-port of all the efficacy claims and marketing communication therefore our protocols em-brace a multidisciplinary study including:
• CLINICAL EVALUATION • INSTRUMENTAL EVALUATION • SELF –PERCEPTION EVALUATION
Clinical and instrumental studies performed under dermatologist supervision:
Clinical studies are performed in collabo-ration with the Dermatologic Clinic of the University of Modena and Reggio Emilia. The aim of these studies is to evaluate the effect of the finished product in vivo on a specific panel of volunteers selected accor-ding to dermatological characteristics in line with product type and the items to be evaluated.
. IMAGE ANALYSIS
Visia Complexion Analysis captures high quality, standardized facial images thanks to a cross-polarized and UV lighting used to record and measure surface and subsurface skin conditions providing the most comple-te data set available for skin assessment and analysis.
FOR WHICH PARAMETERS?
• SPOTS • SKIN COLOUR • RED AREAS - TEXTURE • WRINKLES • PHOTO DAMAGE – UV SPOTS • PORE SIZE • PORPHYRINS (evidence of bacteria)
. OCT(OPTICAL COHERENCE TOMOGRAPHY, SKINTELL)
The OCT is a non-invasive imaging techno-logy that allows the examination of the skin layers up to 2 mm in depth and provide 3 dif-ferent viewing modes (slice, 3D and the uni-que en face) for visualizing skin morphology.
FOR WHICH CLAIMS?
• LENITIVE EFFECT • ANTI-AGING EFFECT • ANTI-CELLULITE EFFICACY
. REFLECTANCE CONFOCAL MICROSCOPY (RCM)
Reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) is a non-invasive technique for "in vivo" exami-nation of the skin. In a confocal microscope, near-infrared light from a diode laser is fo-cused on a microscopic skin target and it is possible to capture a two-dimensional gray scale image that allows the examination of the epidermis and superficial dermis.
FOR WHICH CLAIMS?
• LENITIVE EFFECT • ANTI-AGING EFFECT • ANTI-CELLULITE EFFICACY • WHITENING EFFICACY • ANTI - SEBORRHEA • HYDRATION EFFICACY
The efficacy of the cosmetic product is sup-ported when the analyzed skin parameters have significantly decreased at the end of the study compared to baseline.
. SPECIFICINSTRUMENTAL STUDIES
NEOTRON laboratories also provide effi-cacy tests for measuring skin-associated parameters to evaluate the effects of new ingredients or formulation at different steps of the product development and to give a scientific support to the finished pro-duct’s efficacy. Our portfolio includes the following tests:
HYDRATION:
it is an in-use study or a short term stu-dy performed to evaluate the skin surface hydration value at stratum corneum level (MoistureMeter SC – Delfin) or more in dep-th to assess the water presents in biological tissues (MoistureMeter D – Delfin).
With these evaluations we are able to sup-port claims such as:
MOISTURIZING, HYDRATING
FOR DRY SKIN
LENITIVE /BARRIER EFFECT:
According to product’s type and efficacy, measurements of skin hydration, transepi-dermal water loss and redness are taken in order to evaluate lenitive or barrier ef-fect of the product after skin exposure to a water solution of sodium lauryl sulphate. These measurements are made respectively with Moisture Meter SC – Delfin, Tewame-ter and Colorimeter (Courage & Khazaha) and it is possible to support the following claims:
LENITIVE · PROTECTS SKIN BARRIERRESTORES AND REPAIRS SKIN BARRIER
REPAIRING · RESTORING · FOR SENSITIVE SKIN
SEBOMETRY:
Sebumeter (Courage & Khazaha) determines the sebum level of the skin surface and al-lows to support claims such as:
SKIN SEBUM-NORMALIZING PRODUCT FOR OILY SKIN
SKIN ELASTICITY:
ElastiMeter (Delfin) helps to show the effi-cacy of different kinds of skin care products in order to support claims like:
ELASTICIZING · TONIFYING
FIRMING · NOURISHING
WHITENING:
The efficacy of skin pigmentation treatment is evaluated by using the Mexameter (Coura-ge & Khazaka) which measures the melanin value that is the component mainly respon-sible of the skin colour and from the compa-rison of the data obtained before and after the treatment it is possible to support these claims:
LIGHTENER EFFECT · BRIGHTENINGWHITENING · REDUCES DARK SPOT
BRIGHTENING /LIGHTENING EFFECT:
The measurement performed with Glossyme-ter is useful in the efficacy testing of skin care and decorative cosmetics (lipsticks, ma-ke-up, etc.) in order to support this marke-ting claims:
LIGHTENER EFFECTBRIGHTENING, GLOSSY, SHINY EFFECT
. CONSUMER ANALYSIS
5.PRODUCT TEST–SELF PERCEPTION EFFICACY
NEOTRON is accredited by “ACCREDIA” on product test according to AFNOR XP V 09-500 “Sensory analysis methodology- General guidance for conducting hedonic tests with consumers in a controlled area”.
Studies will be performed according to the objectives that clients want to achieve, for example:
• TO ESTIMATE SELF-PERCEPTION EFFICACY ABOUT POTENTIAL EFFECTS RELATED TO THE EXAMINATED PRODUCT • TO CARRY OUT THE POSITIONING OF THE EXAMINATED PRODUCTS IN TERMS OF OVERALL LIKING EXPRESSED
• IDENTIFY STRENGTH/WEAKNESS POINTS OF THE PRODUCT AND UNDERSTAND HOW TO IMPROVE THEM • TO POINT OUT POSSIBLE PREFERENCES SEGMENTATIONS • TO ESTIMATE PROPENSITY TO
• EVALUATE THE BRAND EFFECT ON SENSORY PROPERTIES
. CONSUMERANALYSIS
TARGET
The panel consists of a group of consumers or potential customers selected on the ba-sis of the objectives that the client want to achieve, so the selection criteria could be:
• DERMATOLOGIC AND TRICHOLOGICAL CHARACTERISTICS DEPENDING ON THE TYPE OF PRODUCT TO BE EVALUATED • THE FREQUENCY OF PURCHASE OF THE PRODUCT TO BE TESTED • THE PURCHASE CHANNEL • PANEL CONSUMER HABITS, ETC.
It is necessary that the sample is repre-sentative of the population and therefore constituted by a sufficiently high number of consumers so as to represent it.NEOTRON realizes the selection and recruit-ment of the target directly from our internal database and through agencies expert in re-cruitment in Europe and other Countries.
SAMPLES
The samples to be tested may be supplied di-rectly by the Neotron client or purchased on the market in Italy and or in selected Coun-tries.
LOCATIONS FOR CONSUMER TESTS
• TEST CENTER:
NEOTRON has the main test center located in Modena and collaborates with fieldwork agencies in Italy, EU and others Countries. Tests performed in test center allow a con-trol and standardization of the samples presentation and application in order to gua-rantee a controlled sensory evaluation.
• HOME TEST:
In home test, the product is tested by consu-mer at home therefore the evaluation of the products is made in a daily context and ac-cording to the consumer habits.
• TEST IN STORE /SHOP/SUPERMARKET:
NEOTRON organizes tests in stores with the purpose to analyse the consumer behavior in front of the shelf’s point of sale.
STATISTICAL ANALYSIS
The collected data from the fieldwork are processed and elaborated by NEOTRON using a dedicated software (Sen&Ca) and interpreted by skilled staff.
Different methods are applied according to the type of information intended to empha-size.
The main statistical tests are:
• ONE-WAY ANOVA • TWO-WAY ANOVA • LSD TEST (Least Significant Difference Test) • SLOPE ANALYSIS • MULTIVARIATE STATISTICAL ANALYSIS: PCA, PLS, CLUSTER ANALYSIS, DISCRIMINANT ANALYSIS, MULTIPLE LINEAR REGRESSION, ETC.
. DISCRIMINATIVE STUDY
. DESCRIPTIVE TEST /QUANTITATIVE DESCRIPTIVE ANALYSIS (QDA)
. SHELF LIFE STUDIES
6.SENSORY ANALYSIS
The sensory analysis is performed by trai-ned assessors that objectively identify the differences between products through the
• SHEF LIFE STUDY
. DISCRIMINATIVESTUDY
(Triangular test, A non A test, etc)
NEOTRON is accredited by “ACCREDIA” on triangular test according to ISO 4120:2004 “Sensory analysis methodology-triangle test”.
This test allows to point out possible sen-sory differences between samples of two products but with no identification of the different nature.
When it is useful to use TRIANGLE TEST METHOD
• MONITORING OF
• MONITORING THE SENSORY PERFORMANCE OF
• EVALUATE THE RAW
• TO COMPARE SENSORY PROFILES BETWEEN SIMILAR
PRODUCTS.
. DESCRIPTIVETEST (Quantitative Descriptive Analysis (QDA)
NEOTRON is accredited by “ACCREDIA” on quantitative descriptive analysis accor-ding to ISO 13299:2003 Sensory analysis -- Methodology -- General guidance for e-
stablishing a sensory profile”. A group of trained assessors is able to evaluate the characterizing attributes of a product in an objective and repeatable way. This test allows to point out possible differences between two or more samples and to iden-tify the nature and the intensity of these diversities.
When it is useful to use QDA METHOD
• DEFINE A SENSORY PROFILE IN ORDER TO CONTROL PRODUCTIONS
• MONITORING OF
• DEVELOPMENT OF NEW PRODUCT OR TO COMPARE SENSORY PROPERTIES OF DIFFERENT FORMULATION; • OPTIMIZATION OF THE PRODUCT IN TERMS OF INGREDIENTS AND TECHNOLOGY AND EVALUATION OF THE SENSORY EFFECT OF FORMULATION CHANGES; • TO REDUCE FORMULATION COST WITHOUT ALTERING THE PERCEPTION
OF THE PRODUCTS.
. SHELF LIFE STUDIES
For each item shelf-life studies give the pos-sibility to check the qualitative decay in time. Assessors compare the fresh product with the product under ageing. Data are proces-sed through Weibull’s model which give the possibility to identify the PSF that means the probability that the product under ageing conditions is perceived as different (therefo-re worse) than the fresh one.
COLOUR
PICK UP
TEXTUR
SPREADABILITY
GREASINESS
ABSORPTION
SOFTNESS
SILKY
NEOTRON Spa divisione Sen&CAAnalisi Sensoriale e Indagini di Mercato
CREAM SAMPLE A
SAMPLE B
E
7.QUALITATIVE RESEARCH
Qualitative research is designed to reach an in-depth understanding about the motivations of consumer’s attitude towards a product, a packaging or advertising and to know the de-ep needs leading to consumer decisions and choice of a brand instead of its competitors.
Qualitative research is also used to help to develop ideas for advertising, by getting information directly from consumer motiva-tions and opinions and to renew the image of a brand or launch a new product and stren-gthen emotional and functional values.
Qualitative methods in the field of marke-ting research include:
• FOCUS GROUP: It is focused on a speci-fic area of interest that allows participants to discuss the topic in detail and to pro-duce a large amount of data in a short time. The partecipant’s recruitment is ba-sed on the main important parameters related to the project aim; usually they share social and cultural experiences such as age, usership, geographic background and ethnicity. The moderator introduces the topic and assists the participants to discuss it, and usually is a person specia-lized in research on the type of product and has an expertise in the management
• IN-DEPTH INTERVIEWS /INTERVIEWS WITH OPINION LEADER: is a qualitative technique of research through intensive individual interviews with a small num-ber of respondents to exploring their perspectives on a particular idea, pro-duct, or situation. Respondents could be either consumer of specific product or an opinion leader which have a specific
• FACE TO FACE INTERVIEWS: there is a recruitment of people to interview re-presentative of the target audience (eg. women responsible of the purchasing, u-sers of the examinated product). The number of volunteers is a function of co-
• INTERVIEWS IN FRONT OF A SHELF/DISPLAY REPRODUCING THE REAL O-NE IN STORE: Respondents are observed while purchasing (at the point of sale) the product. The observation is supplemen-ted with interviews steps to deepen the observations. This methodology can also be applied through the use of online pla-tforms: instead of directly observing, the interviewer is asked to document the con-sumer behavior through videos, photos, blogs, etc. then will follow the loading on the platform .
NEOTRON SPA
Stradello Aggazzotti, 104 41126 Modena — Italy
| Ph +39 059 461711| Fax +39 059 461777
| For more information please contact us
| www.neotron.it
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