Account of Danish Discoveries on the East Coast of Greenland in 1829Source: Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London, Vol. 1 (1831), pp. 247-252Published by: Wiley on behalf of The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of BritishGeographers)Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1797671 .

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Notice on KhoWen. Notice on KhoWen. 246 246 eastern course for one or two days journey reaches Saceram, and onwards for {ive days journey more goes to Koocha, thence in ten or twelve days iourney to Karashuhr, the Black City, thence ten br twelve days Journey to Ooroomchoo thence tvtrelve days journey to the city of Toorfan, Iskee, or Old Toorfan. Elaving held an easterly course from Koocha, it maintains the same direction from Iskee, Toorfan, through an uninhabited tract, in some parts moun- tainous, in others sandy, in others woody, forty days journey, svhen it reaches Kamool, a very large city situated in China. The whole of the country through which the river has yet run was formerly under the rule of the Moosulman Rajah or chief of Yarkund and the population is a mixture of Moosulmalls and Chinese.

' From Kamool the river, continuing its course easterly into China, after twenty days journey, through a sandy desert, greatly deficient in watel; reaches Ltlnjoo (Lanchen of Marco Polo), a city containing fifty thousand houses. ETrom Lunjoo, still keep- ing itS easterly direction for ten or twelve days journey, it arrives at Secampoor, a large city, the inhabitants of which are wholly, or almost wholly, Moosulmans, or, as they are there ca]led, Turganee. From Secampoor, going eastward, in twenty days journey it reaches another large city (Sochen, M. Polo).

' The names of the other cities, ol places, visited by this river in the subsequent part of its course in China, are not known to my informant; but he has always understood that it takes a large sweep to the west, and, quitting China, falls into the Irtish. My infor- mant has gone no farther than Aksoo, but a Yarkundee merchant, his friend, who accompanied the Governor, Hakim of Yarkundn to Peking and back, gave him the information which relates to the course of the river in China.

' The preceding information was obtained through inquiries respecting Khoten producing rhubarb, which it does, though not as an article of commerce; and aIthough its materials may stand with little relative connexion, and may present many chasms, I have thought it preferable to submit them in their present form, rather than defer doing it under the hope of making the sketch less imperfect, lest the accidents which may occur in such a journey as is before me may prevent its beint done at all.

' If the sources of the Irtish are really to be found in the country appertaining to Yarkund as recited, and that the common stream make the detour described, the Irtish may rank with some of the longest rivers in the world. Whilst my informant confines his relation to circumstances known to himself, I give him full credit 5for inquiryX observation, alld veracity; but suspicions arise in regard to the accuracy of the account givell by his friend.

t The retrograde course of such a river, for such a vast distance,

eastern course for one or two days journey reaches Saceram, and onwards for {ive days journey more goes to Koocha, thence in ten or twelve days iourney to Karashuhr, the Black City, thence ten br twelve days Journey to Ooroomchoo thence tvtrelve days journey to the city of Toorfan, Iskee, or Old Toorfan. Elaving held an easterly course from Koocha, it maintains the same direction from Iskee, Toorfan, through an uninhabited tract, in some parts moun- tainous, in others sandy, in others woody, forty days journey, svhen it reaches Kamool, a very large city situated in China. The whole of the country through which the river has yet run was formerly under the rule of the Moosulman Rajah or chief of Yarkund and the population is a mixture of Moosulmalls and Chinese.

' From Kamool the river, continuing its course easterly into China, after twenty days journey, through a sandy desert, greatly deficient in watel; reaches Ltlnjoo (Lanchen of Marco Polo), a city containing fifty thousand houses. ETrom Lunjoo, still keep- ing itS easterly direction for ten or twelve days journey, it arrives at Secampoor, a large city, the inhabitants of which are wholly, or almost wholly, Moosulmans, or, as they are there ca]led, Turganee. From Secampoor, going eastward, in twenty days journey it reaches another large city (Sochen, M. Polo).

' The names of the other cities, ol places, visited by this river in the subsequent part of its course in China, are not known to my informant; but he has always understood that it takes a large sweep to the west, and, quitting China, falls into the Irtish. My infor- mant has gone no farther than Aksoo, but a Yarkundee merchant, his friend, who accompanied the Governor, Hakim of Yarkundn to Peking and back, gave him the information which relates to the course of the river in China.

' The preceding information was obtained through inquiries respecting Khoten producing rhubarb, which it does, though not as an article of commerce; and aIthough its materials may stand with little relative connexion, and may present many chasms, I have thought it preferable to submit them in their present form, rather than defer doing it under the hope of making the sketch less imperfect, lest the accidents which may occur in such a journey as is before me may prevent its beint done at all.

' If the sources of the Irtish are really to be found in the country appertaining to Yarkund as recited, and that the common stream make the detour described, the Irtish may rank with some of the longest rivers in the world. Whilst my informant confines his relation to circumstances known to himself, I give him full credit 5for inquiryX observation, alld veracity; but suspicions arise in regard to the accuracy of the account givell by his friend.

t The retrograde course of such a river, for such a vast distance,

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NoQe an l:hoten. 7

seems ill itself little probable; probabilities, however, are of small importance when opposed to the contrary and positive assertion of a respectable reporter. But the placillg LullJoo, as first visted by the river, seems to be an inaccuracy, and fixing Soogoo to the eastward of the former city, is a decided mistake, either of the original reporter or of my informant.

' The order of the progression of the river may be accounted for by a sweep; but the relative situation of the two cities is an error, as, by observations made by the Jesllits, the portion of Kanchen between See Chew to the west, and Lallchen to the east, is ascertained.

' Had the reporter stated that, from Kamool, the river had retro- graded into the trtish, the account would have been less open to doubt; but when it is made by him to reach Lanchen, it is much more likely that it should disembogue into the Hoango Having given my doubts, it is only candid to observe, that the Igours, from their original country of Turfan, migrate to the banks of the Irtish. And if the streams of their original country fall into the Irtish, this is easily conceivable.'

II.-Account of Danish Discoverits on the East Coast of Green- land in 1829.

THE question respecting the existence of Icelandic colonies on the East coast of Greenland, anterior to the fourteenth century, when they were supposed to have been lost, has long been one of some historical and geographical intelest; and although con- sidered by the learned writer of the annexed letter to be now settled, appears still to admit of plausible reasoning on both sides. Of the particulars now given, as bearing on it, the greater num- ber were communicated to the Royal Geographical Society of London, in a letter addressed by Captain Zahrtmann, Hydro- grapher Royal, Copenhagen, to Captain Beaufort, and read to the Hiociety at its second meetillg, in November last. But the follow- ing narrative has been preferred, being an official report sent, by oleder of the Prince of Denmark, to the Geographical Society of Paris, and somewhat more minute :

' For some ages back the kings of Denmark have fitted out ex- peditions from time to time, vvith a view of re-discovering that part of Greenland which is said to have been formerly peopled by a colony from Iceland, but of wYhich the trace was lost about the elld of the fourteenth century. The persons charged with these expeditions have been as follows: In the reign of Frederick II., Magnus Heinesen; in the reign of Christian IV., Jens l!k[unk, Godske, Lindenou, and Carsten Richardsen; in the reign of

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248 Accoun! of Danwh Dzscoveries on the

Frederick III., David Danell; in the reign of Frederick V., Peter Olsen XVfalloe; and inthe reign of ChristianVII., MM. Lowe- norn, Egede, and Rothe. But all these attempts were fruitless, so far as concerned the discovery of Greenland to the east of Cape Farewell; and the only navigator who went so far was M. Valloe, who, lJy coastings in the year 1752, arrived at Kangek, in latitude 60? 35'. The other expeditions never succeeded in lallding, nor even approached nearer to the shore than the distance of four leagues. lt was nearly at that distance that Captaill Danell, in 16o2, Sd of June, in latitude 64? 50', discosered tsno islands, to which 13e ,ave the names of [Ioidsolen (Rhite sun), alld Mastelost Sklb (dismasted sllip). rrhe 6tll of the same month he discovered five other islands situate more to tbe north.

' Undel the reign of Frederick VI., distint,uished by the encoal- ragement of all the sciences, the search after this lost part of the monarchy was not li};el) to be forgotten, particularly as the expecli- tions fitted out for this purpose by the S,overnmellt had been ale ays strongly seconded by the enthusiasm of the people. A comluission was nonlinated to investi^,ate all the difficulties of the enterprise, and the means ly mhich they might be overcome; and this commis- sion llavin^, reported, R1. Graah (captain of a frigate), who already, during the years 1823 and 1824, had surveyed the west coast of Greenland, bet-een (i8? 30' and 73? of latitude, was appointed to the command of an expedition destined to reIlew the attempt.

' In the sprillg of tile year 1828, he repaired to Greenland with M. Valll, naturalist, and was there joined by M. Mathiesell, who was to serve him 7(S interpreter. [n tlle course of this -ear (1828) and in the establishment of Julianshaab, he organized his expedi- tion, causing to be constructed tsto kollebaades (wonlen's canoes) atld two cajacs engatting two Greenland men and ten Greenland ^zomen, aIld collecting the provisions alld articles of commerce which \!ere likely to be required; and, 1laving done tllis, he went to willter at NenortaIik, the establishnlent l-learest to Cape Fare- well, and situated at 60? 7' 45" of north latitude, and 45? 2.3' west of Greenwich.

' On the GOth of Marcll, 1829, the expedition, collsisting of four Europeans atld twelve natives embarked in two konebaades, alld two cajacs, as already mentioned, and quitted Nenortalik. Instead of dollbling the sotlth promolltory of Greetll;lnd, Kangek-ktrdlex (Statenbtlk), situate on an isl;nd, they pllshed on tllrougll the strait whicl1 separates tllat islulld fiom the colltinent, and in this way reaclled the ea3terll coast, wIlere their progless was much retarded by masses of ice heaped up in a way that appeared extra- ordinary even to the Greenlanders. Being thus retarded, the COI1- sumptioll of European provisions was so considerable, conlpared with tlleir progress, that RI. Graah determined to send away the

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Easf Coast of Greenland. 249

European8 and the least brave of the Greenlanders; and, accom- panied by only two Greenland men and four Greenland women, to continue to explore the coast in one only of these frail boats. This separation was effected on the iSrd of Jllne, in latitude 61? 46/ 40", and the project which sufficiently proves the zeal and intrepidity of M. Graah, was crowlled with the success svhich it deserved.

' On the 28th of July he llad advallced as far as an island situate in latitude 6o? 18', and 38? 27' west from Greenuticll. He had to contend, in his progress, IlOt only against tlle ice, which, besides incumberiIIt the navigation and retardillg tlle progress of the canoe, changed even tlle coast into a glacier, so that the shelter necessary for the meu anci for the canoe was only to be found at a very few places,-but also a,,ainst the unwillint,ness of his crew to rull tlle hazard of being forced to winter on this uninhabited part of the coast, where they ̂ sould be in danger of famine.

' He persevered, ho^ever agaillst every difficulty; bllt was at last stopped alto,,ether by an winsurmollntable barrier of ice, and forced to return, after having vainly waited till tlle end of August, expecting a favourable change. On the 1st of October, he arrived at Nugarbik, latitllde 63? 22', where he took up his winter quarters, and sent 11ome a detail of his enterprise,?dated April 2, 1830, entrusting the document to the care of a Green- lander, WllO carried it to the establishmellt of Julianshaab, from which it uas transmitted to CCopenhagen. He announce3 in it his intention to quit Nugarbik Oll tlle 3d, to push to the north as far as his limited means would allow, and to return to Nenortalik ill the alltumn; and it may be hoped that he lJas since completed his perilolls enterprise.

' As for the principal object of the expedition, homevel, it appears to be already accomplished; for havillg advanced beyond tlle latittlde ascribed to this anciellt colony, without discovelint, the levast trace of it, or the most insigni6cant remains, even in places which must necessal ily have been occlopied, if tlle inhabitclnts had ever possessed fixed habitations,-having foulld l-O traditioll or trace of the religion, language, or manners of that Cllristian colony aulong the natives of the country, it appears evidellt to 1M. Graah, that this Icelalldic colony collld not l)ase lleen to the east of Sta- tenlluk, but Oll the south-west part of tlle l)re.sent Greenlalld, near the site of tbe estal)lisllment of J uliallshaab, agl eeably to tlle opinioll whicll was expressed fbrty years ago by M. Egt,ers, in a Tork crowned by lhe Royal Academy of Sciences at Copen- ha3gen.

' A chart, transmitted by M. Graall, differs materially frotn tllose that have been constructed after the old description of the bishopric of Greenland, by Ivar Bardsen; but it confirms the

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Account of Dantsh Duwreries on {he iso

discoveries of Captain Danell, for not only does it show the islands of Hoidsolen and Mastelost Skib, but M. Graah has even discovered from the point whence he returned, three of the tive islands of Danell. The only circumstance which appears to

favour the old opinion respecting the situation of that colony, is the physical character of the men whom M. Graah has found there. rrhey have little analogy lvith the Esquimaux, and resemble, on the contl ary, the Scandinavialls of Europe. They have neither the flat heads, short broad personsX nor the flabby fatness of the Esqui- nlausn but are, for the most part, above the middle stature, having the European form of head and expression of countenance. Their per- sons are ratller meagre, but nervous, and finely formed, without any appearance of weaklless; alld they are more active and robust than the inhabitants of the west coast. The colour of skin of the women and chil(trell is quite as clear and pure as that of Europeans, and tlley have often broszn hair, which is never seen on the other inha- bitallts of Greenland. Sonle of the men allow their mustachios to grow, others tattoo their arms, and all the women have their arms, hands, alld chill tattooed_arl operation which they execute them- selves. Exposed to the greatest physical suffering, and sery often to famine, it is seldom that they live beyond the age of fifty; it is also alleged that the population is decreasing; alld between the latitudes of 60? and 65?, M. Graah found only about five or six hundred inhalitants. The population appeared to have decreased on the south side of the coast, some of the inhabitants having emigrated to a new mission of Moravian Brothers, vhich has lately established itself at Fredrichsthal, near to Cape Statenhuk. Tlle missiollaries are accustomed to collect the natives aroulld them, and this facilitates, doubtless, their instruction and conver- SiOll; while, on the other hand it illcreases the ravages of fallline wvhen the harvest fails. In the establishments of the Danish mis-

sionaries, they prefer to allovv the natives to pursue their wander- ing lifE, but without losing sight of the object of the mission.

' SVith lespect to their religious opinions it i8 a subject on wllich 1s1. Graah does llot enter into any detail, on account of his imperfect knowledge of their language. It appears that, like the other Greenlanders, they adore two beings, a good and an evil deity. Like them, too, they have sorcerers (angekoks), but their influence {loes not appear to be so great, and is probably diminish- ing still more, becallse 1>{. Graah observed, that the young people anlllsed themselseswith lallghing at thein. In their moral cha- racter they seem very estimable; and the reported good-nature of the husbands, the submission of their wives, the obedience of the cllildren, and tbe mutual affiection and confidence of the whole com- nlunity, make it difficult to remember that they are pagans. It was tlse good faith the hospitality the kind and generous dispo-

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East Coast of Greenland. East Coast of Greenland. 251 251

sitions of these children of nature, that enabled 51. (3raah, in his isolated situation, to overcome the obstacles by which he was surrounded. During thirteen months he lost only a hatchet, arld thishe believed that he had forgotten somewhere; and his letters and journals have been transmitted to us by a Greenlander, who carried them froln Nugarbik to Nenalalek. Polygamy is not common among them; they do not change their wives, and their morals appear to be irreproachable. The married people neitller fight llor dispute with one another, and no appearance of ill- humour is to be seen among them.

' Although M. Graah possessed articles that greatly delighted them, 1lo Greenlander, not even one of the children, begged for anything, unless when service had been rendered; for on these occasions they always demanded a gratification, but were generally satisfied with a portion of tobacco. 'their chief luxuries are tobacco, coXee, and eau de vie.

' All this coast appears to be still colder, more barren and miser- able than the west coast. It may be said to consist of one unin- terrupted glacier (gisbrae), exhibiting only a few patches of veg;etation, geuelally on the banks of the rivers alld elsewhere, often advancing far into the sea, and forming promontories of ice, which are passed with so much the more danger, that they fre- quently fall in avalanches (koeloe).

' During the whole sllmmer of 1829 there was not owle day which could be called warm; alld before the 14th of June, the Centigrade thermometer had never risen above 12?. During the winter of 1828-9, however, the cold never exceeded 17? or 18? g and the south-west svinds sometilues caused the temperatute to rise suddenly to + 13?.

' At Ekolumius, latitude 63? 30'., the vegetation appeared to M. Graah to be superior to that of any other part of the coast, even of Julianshaab, which is reputed to be the most favoured part of the west coast. This vegetation, howesZer, appears to consist only in a fine grass, which withers quickly whell exposed to the warmth of the sun, alld in sonle anti-scorbutic plants, as sorrel and scurvy-grass, with olle or two kinds of flowers, and low louslles of willow and birch, of mThich the maximum gro^sth is two feet.

' The food of the natives is principally the dried flesh of the seal, with a little t,ame and fish. M. Graah makes mention of bears hares, birds, and salmon; but he says that, even at the latitucle of 63? 96', rein-deer and hares are known owlly by name.

' In laying down the plan of the coast, M. Graah derived no assistance from his chronometers, because one of them stopped at Nenortalik, and the other at the beginlling of the voyage which was of a nature to expose these delicate instruments to too much casua}ty.

' H<e made many observations of latitude and some of lunar dis-

sitions of these children of nature, that enabled 51. (3raah, in his isolated situation, to overcome the obstacles by which he was surrounded. During thirteen months he lost only a hatchet, arld thishe believed that he had forgotten somewhere; and his letters and journals have been transmitted to us by a Greenlander, who carried them froln Nugarbik to Nenalalek. Polygamy is not common among them; they do not change their wives, and their morals appear to be irreproachable. The married people neitller fight llor dispute with one another, and no appearance of ill- humour is to be seen among them.

' Although M. Graah possessed articles that greatly delighted them, 1lo Greenlander, not even one of the children, begged for anything, unless when service had been rendered; for on these occasions they always demanded a gratification, but were generally satisfied with a portion of tobacco. 'their chief luxuries are tobacco, coXee, and eau de vie.

' All this coast appears to be still colder, more barren and miser- able than the west coast. It may be said to consist of one unin- terrupted glacier (gisbrae), exhibiting only a few patches of veg;etation, geuelally on the banks of the rivers alld elsewhere, often advancing far into the sea, and forming promontories of ice, which are passed with so much the more danger, that they fre- quently fall in avalanches (koeloe).

' During the whole sllmmer of 1829 there was not owle day which could be called warm; alld before the 14th of June, the Centigrade thermometer had never risen above 12?. During the winter of 1828-9, however, the cold never exceeded 17? or 18? g and the south-west svinds sometilues caused the temperatute to rise suddenly to + 13?.

' At Ekolumius, latitude 63? 30'., the vegetation appeared to M. Graah to be superior to that of any other part of the coast, even of Julianshaab, which is reputed to be the most favoured part of the west coast. This vegetation, howesZer, appears to consist only in a fine grass, which withers quickly whell exposed to the warmth of the sun, alld in sonle anti-scorbutic plants, as sorrel and scurvy-grass, with olle or two kinds of flowers, and low louslles of willow and birch, of mThich the maximum gro^sth is two feet.

' The food of the natives is principally the dried flesh of the seal, with a little t,ame and fish. M. Graah makes mention of bears hares, birds, and salmon; but he says that, even at the latitucle of 63? 96', rein-deer and hares are known owlly by name.

' In laying down the plan of the coast, M. Graah derived no assistance from his chronometers, because one of them stopped at Nenortalik, and the other at the beginlling of the voyage which was of a nature to expose these delicate instruments to too much casua}ty.

' H<e made many observations of latitude and some of lunar dis-

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