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Accurate Time Study:The Beginning of Basics
December 13-14, 2002
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What apparel companies need?
Apparel companies need standard cost solution
China signed WTO agreement, more competitiveenvironment is coming ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning) system is building on
foundation of BOM (Bill of Material) and BOL (Bill of Labor) BOM noted the standard costing for material, while BOL list
the standard cost for manufacturing operation. Apparel companies looking for a better method of scheduling Apparel companies looking for a standard that is universal
applicable Expecting the data could be use for production line
balancing. Expecting the data could be used by sales/merchandising
precise costing
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Methods available
Traditional apparel companies heavily dependson experience staff in estimating product cost
Time Base Standard Time base standard are widely used in western
countries from the 30s until now. All operations and labor cost are based on time
unit; the common one are SAH (Standard Allow Hour), SAM (Standard Allow Minute) and SAS (Standard Allow Second)
All time base standard includes allowance forpersonal need, additional incentive andcontingency.
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Rating
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Operation allowance for different machines
Allowance Standards for Various Garment Operations
Machine Machine Personal Incentive
Type Delay & Fatigue
Single Needle -Bobbin . %111 . %11 . %111
-Looper . %11 . %11 . %111
-Top Thread Only . %11 . %11 . %111
Two Needles -Bobbin . %111 . %11 . %111
-Looper . %11 . %11 . %111
-Top Thread Only . %111 . %11 . %111
Three Needles -Looper . %111 . %11 . %111
-Top Thread Only . %111 . %11 . %111
Four Needles -Looper . %111 . %11 . %111
-Top Thread Only . %111
. %11
. %111
Overlocking -Three Thread . %11 . %11 . %111
-Five Thread . %111 . %11 . %111
On the above operations allow a tolerance of +/- . % depending on type of work and length of machine cycle in rela11
(Discuss with supervisor, when in doubt.)
Buttonhole -Bobbin (Single) . %11 . %11 . %111
-Bobbin (Tandem) . %111 . %11 . %111
-Top Thread Only . %11 . %11 . %111
-Chain Stitch (Single) . %11 . %11 . %111
-Chain Stitch (Double) . %11 . %11 . %111
On the following operations, allow % downward tolerance for machine delay on REECE S- tackers.1 1Button Sewing -Bobbin . %11 . %11 . %111
-Top Thread Only . %11 . %11 . %111
Semi-automatic Manual Operations
Creasing (REECE; BRADDING) . %11 . %11 . %111
Bartack -Single . %11 . %11 . %111
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Operation Code
ASS ASSEMBLE LPL LAPEL
ATT ATTACH M/C MACHINE
B&F BEARER & FACING MAN MANUAL
BAG POCKET BAG MRK MARK
BCK BACK NTH NOTCH
BDL BUNDLE OLG OVERLOCK
BEL BELT OPS OFF PRESS
BLL BELT LOOP OSM OUT SEAM
BND BAND PAD PADDING
BPK BACK POCKET PBK PANEL BACK
BRD BRAIDING PCH PATCH POCKET
BSM BACK RISE SEAM PFC PANT FRONT
BTH BUTTONHOLE PIP PIPING
BTS BUTTON SEWING PKT POCKET
CLR COLLAR PLQ PLACKET
CLS CLOSE PLT PLEAT
CTH CATCH PRS PRESS
CUF CUFF QLT QUILTING
DRT DART R&T RUN STITCH & TURN
DSG DRAW STRING RTT RUN, TURN & TOPSTITCHING
ELC ELASTIC RUN RUN STITCHING
F&B FRONT & BACK SET SETF&C FLY & CATCH SEW SEWING
FAC FACING SHR SHOULDER
FAL FALL SLM SLEEVE HEM
FEL FELL SLT SLIT
FIX FIX SLV SLEEVE
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Time Base Standard
Apparel companies has two major method in
establishing Time Base Standard Time Studies which base on industrial
engineering technique by using stop-watch,element breakdown, rating, statistic analysis in
establish SAM data. MTM (Motion Time Measurement) a
technique allow engineer systematicallybreakdown operator motion in a sequence of
motion. By well define the operation motionelements and convert motion code into time.Those time value put together become thestandard value for analysis SAM.
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Limitation on Time Studies
Standard procedures for time studies a. Observe job and analyze to determine element. b. Grade the elements to give assessment of rate of working
compared to accept. c. Use stopwatch to obtain times of each element - raw time. d. Select or average to give accepted time. e. Multiply raw time by grading factor to get 100% time. f. Multiply 100% time by the number of times it occurs per 100
garments to get 100% time / 100. g. Add allowances to 100% time to give standard allowed time. h. These comprise: (1) Machine Delay Allowance (Where applicable). (2) Personal And Fatigue Allowances. (3) Incentive Allowances (Where applicable).
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Limitation on Time Studies
Observe job and analyze to determine
elements is subject to the decision of industrialengineer. It may vary from engineer toengineer. The method adopted by operator areoften different.
Grading is an art. See the example It takes a long time to collect and build up
sufficient samples before standardization couldbe achieved.
SAM can never available before operations areperformed, this is another chicken and eggstory.
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MTM method
International adopted standard from MTM
organization. MTM data is well established and proven
MTM method based on motion analysis, eachmotion is well analysis, excessive andunnecessary motions are removed.
No human judgment on rating.
MTM result could be reused, the motion
sequence allow very detail describe the motionrequired for the job.
Labor union agree on MTM standards.
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Why apparel companies need time base standard?
Example on production capacity calculation
A manufacturing facility has 820 sewing worker
22 working day in a month
8 Hours in a day
60 minute in an hour Capacity input:
820 X 22 X 8 X 60 = 8,659,200 minute
Or 144,320 hour
If basic garment with 18.8 SAM is defined, the factorytheoretical should be able produced 460,595garment in a months time
8,659,200 minute / 18.8 SAM = 460,595 piece
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If above example is extended to a morecomplicated style, the feasible output from thesame manufacturing would vary as following(assume the skill and machine is constant) 8,659,200 minute / 18.8 SAM = 460,595 piece 8,659,200 minute / 20.8 SAM = 416,308 piece
8,659,200 minute / 22.8 SAM = 379,789 piece 8,659,200 minute / 24.8 SAM = 349,161 piece 8,659,200 minute / 26.8 SAM = 323,104 piece
This example show if the style is changing andvary with features and operation intensive, itcould greatly affect the product capacity andcost!
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What about costing?
Let see the costing from other prospective Administrative cost: 250,000 per months Machine depreciation: 228,300 per months Rent and Utilities: 120,000 per month Total overhead could be :
250,000 + 228,300 + 120,000 = 598,300
Cost per input minutes would be $598,300/ 8,659,200 minutes= $ 0.069 per minutes
The overhead absorb would be: Garment with 18.8 SAM = $0.069 X 18.8SAM = 1.2972 Garment with 20.8 SAM = $0.069 X 20.8SAM = 1.4352 Garment with 22.8 SAM = $0.069 X 22.8SAM = 1.5732 Garment with 24.8 SAM = $0.069 X 24.8SAM = 1.7112 Garment with 26.8 SAM = $0.069 X 26.8SAM = 1.8492
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Labor Cost
Direct wage or labor could be calculated as following
Minute wage:
Target wage per month = 800Working days in a month = 22
Minute in a day (8 X 60) = 480
Minute wage = 800 / (22 X 480) = 0.076 per minute
Garment with 18.8 SAM = $0.076 X 18.8SAM = 1.4288 Garment with 20.8 SAM = $0.076 X 20.8SAM = 1.5808 Garment with 22.8 SAM = $0.076 X 22.8SAM = 1.7328 Garment with 24.8 SAM = $0.076 X 24.8SAM = 1.8848
Garment with 26.8 SAM = $0.076 X 26.8SAM = 2.0368
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What happened to total cost?
Lets put overhead absorption and labor costtogether.
SAM Labor Overhead GMT Cost
18.8 0.069 0.076 2.726
20.8 0.069 0.076 3.01622.8 0.069 0.076 3.306
24.8 0.069 0.076 3.596
26.8 0.069 0.076 3.886
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Line balancing
Line BalOPERATION PCS Existing EFFECTIVE Target
DESCRIPTION SAM/111 Per 111 Piece Rate BASE RATE PCS111
-------------------------------- ------- --------- ------- ---------
1SN SEW LABEL & SIZE ON W/B .44444 .44444 .111 .44444 .11
1DN ATTACH WAISTBAND ( )1 .11111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11
1OVLK FLY FACING ( T)1 .11111 .11111 .111 .11111 .11
11OVLK BACK POCKET BAG ( T)1 .11111 .11111 .111 .11111 .11
11WELT POCKET ( )1 .11111 .11111 .111 .11111 .11
11OVLK BEND SIDE OF F.PKT ( T) ( )1 1 .11111 .11111 .111 .11111 .11
11ATT FACING W/TOPSTITCH END .11111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11
11TRIM POCKET BAGS (L & S) .11111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11
11TURN EDGESTITCH & SEW MIDDLE-SIDE .11111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11
11OVLK FRONT JET PKT ( )1 .11111 .11111 .111 .11111 .11
11MAKE DARTS .11111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11
11TOPSTITCH BACK WELT PKT ( )1 .111111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11
11CLOSE BACK PKT BAG ( )1 .11111 .1111 .111 .1111 .11
11TOPSTITCH F.JET PKT ( )1 .111111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11
11ATTACH FRONT PKT BAG & MAKE NOTCH .11111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11
11TOPSTITCH FRONT PKT MONTH ( / )11 .11111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11
11SN EDGESTITC H F.PKT (L PKT BAGS) .111111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11
11OVLK FRONT CROTCH ( T)1 .11111 .11111 .111 .11111 .11
11SET ZIP WITH FLY & CLOSE CROTCH .111111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11
11ATTACH BELT LOOP ( ) & SZ LBL1 .11111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11
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MTM Solution
To enable apparel companies benefit
from Time Base Standard without thelengthen process in collect operationsamples and following procedures on
statistical analysis in establishing SAM. Computer package on MTM creation
could be a quick win for apparel
companies Such as IMPACT software package
from Gerber Technology.
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Gerber IMPACT is a high level MTM-2
base system with easy to use andunderstanding elements.
IMPACT has four major MTM-2 high levelelements DI elements for Dispose HA elements for Handling PO elements of Position PU elements of Pick Up
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IMPACT elements Pick Up
*****************************************
PU11PICK UP PIECE WITH TURN
Left (or right) hand (or both hands) is idle on the table or comingback from disposing the previous piece. The hand(s) moves to reachthe piece and grasps with several finger movements (difficult grasp).Lifts the part up in order to make a turn, brings the piece down tomachine and turns it simultaneously. The right (or the left) handusually also grasps the piece to hold it. The element does not includeany straightening nor any positioning of the piece but does includereleasing of the piece which may take place later on after severalelements.
Left hand #Code Tmu Code #Right hand
1- cm11 11 . min4444
get piecelift to turnturn & bring totable
GC11
PA11
(PA )11
11
1
1
GB1
grasp if needed
11- cm11 11 . min1111
GC11
PA11
PA11
11
1
11
(GB )11
11- cm11 11 . min4444
GC11PA11
PA11
1111
11
(GB )11
11- cm11 11 . min1111
GC11
PA11
PA11
11
11
11
(GB )11
Dispose
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IMPACT element - Position
*****************************************PO11
POSITION UNDER FOOT ACCURATELY
The piece (or pieces) is in hand. The hand brings the piece underthe foot and positions it accurately. The presser foot has been lifted
before the element and will be let down during the next element.
Left hand # Code Tmu Code # Right hand
1- cm11 11 . min1111
put & positionaccurately
PC11
11
= =
11- cm11 11 . min4444
PC11
11 =
11- cm11 11 . min1111
PC11
11 =
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IMPACT element - Handling
*****************************************
HA11ALIGN NOTCHESHands move simultaneously to edges of pieces and align notches.
Control of the pieces shifts to the right hand with finger movements.
The left hand supports the alignment.
Left hand # Code Tmu Code # Right hand
1- cm11 11 . min1111Get and align
Support
GB11
PA11
11
1
1
=
R Change control
11- cm11 11 . min1111 GB11
PA11
11
1
11
=R
11- cm11 44 . min1111 GC11
PA11
11
1
11
=
R
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IMPACT element - Dispose
*****************************************DI11
DISPOSE WITHOUT GRASP
The piece is already under control of the hands. Move the piece
aside with one continuous movement.
Left hand # Code Tmu Code # Right hand
1- cm11 11 . min1111
move PB11
11
11- cm11 11 . min1111
PB11
11
11- cm11 11 . min1111
PB11
11
11- cm11 11 . min1111
PB11
11
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Category 1
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Category 2
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Class Code
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Components
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IMPACT Element Data Table
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Federal Stitch Type Data Table
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Machine Data Table
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Method Auto Numbers
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Pay Code
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Season Data table
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Skill Code Data Table
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Method Analysis - Header
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Method Analysis Core
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Method Analysis - Result
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Method Analysis Details
S b A bl A t f t
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Sub Assembly A component of a garment
S b A bl A l i
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Sub Assembly Analysis
S b A bl A l i Additi l I f ti
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Sub-Assembly Analysis Additional Information
IMPACT St l
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IMPACT Style
St l A l i
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Style - Analysis
St l Additi l I f ti
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Style Additional Information
W U
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Warp Up
Apparel Companies need Time Base
Standard to enhance existing operationin scheduling, precise costing, costabsorption calculation, line balancing.
Heading with WTO; a more demandingsituation; productivity is the key word.
Need a quick solution, MTM-2 high level
data could be a candidate for you!
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Question?