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8/14/2019 Acne Vc Comedogenesis and Treatment
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1
Dr Philippe Deprez Policlínica Estética & anti aging
P h d @ e s t e t i k . c o m
Port Grec, 40, pb
17487 Empuriabrava - España
Tel +34 972 45 01 51 Fax: + 34 972 45 23 23
http://www.estetik.com/centres/cmeempur.htm
Easy TCA vs Easy Phytic
Purifying vs Purigel
8/14/2019 Acne Vc Comedogenesis and Treatment
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What is Acne
Acne is a multifactorial and dynamicprocess involving the whole
pilosebaceous unit.(PSU)
8/14/2019 Acne Vc Comedogenesis and Treatment
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Comedo vs acne genesis
Comedogenesis:Compact non inflammatory hyperkeratosis of the
PSU
precedes acnegenesis
Acnegenesis
Inflammation of PSU after clogging of dead
corneocytes closing the PSU.Infection.
Pustules and papules appear.
WhatHappens ?
8/14/2019 Acne Vc Comedogenesis and Treatment
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PSU hyperactivity
Excretion of lipids is controlled hormonally:
5 alpha reductase sensitive cells to Testosterone
produce more sebum than they can eliminate.LH pic after ovulation can produce the same effect.
Oxidation of fatty acids produce inflammation and Free
radicals reactions => vicious circle.
8/14/2019 Acne Vc Comedogenesis and Treatment
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Keratinization problems
The keratinization process in the lower part of PSU is the samethan in skin surface.
Maturation of these keratinocytes and elimination into the PSU
begins the comedogenesis because keratinocytes of acnepatients tend to stick together ( due to + and - electric chargesand the high production of sebum ) .
This blocks the pores and produce
the "blackheads" if the pore is still openor the "white head" if the pore is closed and infected.
8/14/2019 Acne Vc Comedogenesis and Treatment
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Bacteries invasion and body
reaction
Dead cells and sebum is a greatnutritional source for Bacteries.Skin immunity acts andproduces an inflammatoryreaction: the typically "pimple".
The exact role of bacteries is notcompletely understood but itseems that bacterian lipasesbreak sebum triglycerides and
the oxidation of free fattyacids can produceinflammation throughinflammatory mediators.
8/14/2019 Acne Vc Comedogenesis and Treatment
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Treatment should consist in:
8/14/2019 Acne Vc Comedogenesis and Treatment
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Normalization of Keratinization
and exfoliation
Purifying cream contains pure retinol micro-encapsulated in cyclodextrins.
Purigel contains salicylic acid and Burdock
Burdock extracts (Arctium Majus):keratinization normalization
Salicylic acid acid is keratolytic
8/14/2019 Acne Vc Comedogenesis and Treatment
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Reduce Bacteries Proliferation
Benzoyl peroxide acts against bacteries producing a
strong free radicals production that can damage the
skin after long term treatment. Antibiotics can be indicated if necessary, but 60% of
patients exhibit multi-antibiotic resistance
Purifying cream: Tea tree oil and Triclosan
(cyclodextrines) can achieve this goal
Purigel: contains Triclosan (cyclodextrines) and
Burdock (bacteriostatic)
8/14/2019 Acne Vc Comedogenesis and Treatment
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Unclog pores
AHA and Retinol can unclog pores but
comedones extraction should be performedat the beginning of the treatment.
Purifying: contains AHA and retinol incyclodextrines
Purigel contains salicylic acid: comedolytic
8/14/2019 Acne Vc Comedogenesis and Treatment
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Limit the inflammatory response
of the body
Purifying contains: Tea tree oil and triclosan incyclodextrines and tocopherol Tea tree oil and Triclosan
have anti inflammatory propertiesTocopherol acetate can fight againstoxidation by scavenging FRO production andlimiting oxidative damage and vicious circle.
Purigel Contains Burdock extracts acid which isantiinflammatory
8/14/2019 Acne Vc Comedogenesis and Treatment
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Moisturizing
Skin dryness have been reported as an important
factor in exacerbating active acne.
Glycyrrhetinic acid and glycolic acid are able to
moisturize the skin.
Purifying contians glycyrrhetinic acid and glycolic acid
8/14/2019 Acne Vc Comedogenesis and Treatment
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Decrease the level of sebum
production
Hormonal stabilization
Use of topical or general retinoids ( tretinoin orisotretinoin )
Use of thiol derivatives: Purigel containsTHIOSOME (Methionin and cysteine
compound) that reduces sebum production
8/14/2019 Acne Vc Comedogenesis and Treatment
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Globally
Skin Tech Purifying cream is strongly disinfectantand keratolytic
Purifying is used between peelings and 2 weeks
after last peel
Purigel is strongly disinfectant and reduces PSU(Pilo Sebaceous Units) hyperactivity
Purigel is used as a long term maintenancetreatment
8/14/2019 Acne Vc Comedogenesis and Treatment
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Tips
Facial cleansing should be gently achieved with "Skintech cleanser foam". No vigorous rubbing.
Avoid exposition to sun and sunbeds. ( sun producesan anti inflammatory result but also an higherproduction of sebum and keratin.
More, sun lowers immunitary defenses of the skin )Sun may darken the final colour of acne scars
Comedones extraction done with comedone extractor
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Purifying vs purigel
PURIFYING CREAM
Crème de soins journaliers inter peelings
Ac glycolique (8%) adoucit la peau – évitel’occlusion des pores - stimule leturnover épidermique - pH 4
Rétinol = Précurseur de la trétinoine, draineles unites pilo sébacées.
Vit E : tocopheryl acetate : anti radical libre,rompt le cercle vicieux oxydation -inflammation
Triclosan : antiseptique -anti inflammatoire-antimycotique
Acide glycyrrhétinique : hydrate, anti prurit,anti allergique
Tea tree oil: extrait d’arbuste australien,aussi actif que le benzoyl peroxyde maissans effet pro oxydant
Anti bactérien, anti virus – antimycotique – anti inflammatoire
PURIGEL
Gel non gras : soins journaliers a longterme
Thiosome : réduit la production de sébum
Burdock extracts :action anti acnéique directeanti inflammatoireanti bacterienkeratolytique
Triclosan : antiseptique -anti inflammatoire-antimycotique
Acide salicylique : Evite l’occlusion despores
Menthol/camphor : sensation derafraîchissement cutané
During peels Maintenance
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Time line
1st ETCA
session
2nd 3rd 4th ETCA
session
8 days 8 days 8 days 6 weeks regeneration
Purifying cream Purigel
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18
oliclínica Estética & anti aging
Dr Philippe Deprez
Academy of Medical Sciences - Bucuresti
Honour member
Port Grec, 40, pb
17487 Empuriabrava - España
Tel +34 972 45 01 51 Fax: + 34 972 45 23 23
http://www.estetik.com/centres/cmeempur.htm
Thank you
For
Your attention
Ed Informa Health CareEnglish version (450pp) Korean version (600pp):
See on www.estetik.com