Aconcagua park - History

(From www.aconcaguaexpeditions.com)

The first attempts to reach the summit of mount Aconcagua, Argentina, were made by Paul Güssfeldt, a German explorer who discovered the mountain and traced for the first time the route up to 6560 meters but had to descend in the middle of a hurricane.

Matthias Zurbriggen Paul Güssfeldt

 Fourteen years later, the englishman Edward Fitz Gerald leds a European team of nine men, together with the Swiss Matthias Zurbriggen as chief guide. Zurbriggen himself on January 14, 1897 reached the summit of mount Aconcagua (6962 meters above sea level). At that time there were no shelters, maps or traced routes, just the immensity of the mountain, the cold, the wind and altitude sickness.

On December 23, 1896 the tireless expedition marked its beginnings in the middle of a hustle, going up and down, but finally reaching the summit. After several tries, on the 14th, after a hypothetical rest Fitz Gerald and Zurbriggen reached what would become the first of all summits. At 6700 meters above sea level Fitz Gerald had to give up the ascent and Matthias Zurbriggen continued and completed the epic adventure that had begun a few days before.The rest of the team went back to Puente del Inca to get ready for a new try. On February 13 only three left and that is where Fitz Gerald had to give up again, and on that same day, Lanti and Vines, members of the initial expedition, continued at their own pace and were the second to reach the summit of the Colossus.

Origin of the NameThe name Aconcagua, as most Indian names, has generated controversy regarding its Spanish meaning. The best known is Stone Sentinel, of Quechua origin. In this language the words Akon and Kahuak gave birth to the name.In the Aymara language there are two terms, Kon and Kawa which mean snowed and mount respectively. Therefore, in this language the name Aconcagua would translate as (snow-capped mountain). Other translations are other feared peaks or it comes from the other side, and even though there is no evidence of which would be the correct translation, Stone Sentinel is the most widely used.

Almost 7000 meters, subject of debateThe different measurements performed in mount Aconcagua have become the center of many discussions. In 1898 the Chilean Border Committee decided on an altitude of 6960 meters above sea level and the Argentine Committee set a higher altitude: 7130 meters above sea level, the highest measurement in history.After some time, in 1957, OACI established 6959 meters above sea level, taking into account the IGMA cartography since 1962. The most widely used measurement, at least in our country, was performed by satellite in 1989 and resulted in 6962 meters above sea level with a possible error of ± 5 meters.

GeologyThe Colossus of America has an altitude of 6962 meters above sea level due to its volcanic structure. It is said to be a Paleo-volcano for its net content. It is a volcanic separated from its magma chamber. Its incredible height can only be explained by the fact that it was active up to at least 9,5 million years ago, according to the dating of the vulcanites of its summit.

Aconcagua Visitors Statistics Top 21 country of origin of people entering the park - Season 2009/10Country Visitors Country Visitors1- Argentina 2223 12- Israel 1292- USA 760 13- Holland 1243- Germany 380 14- Australia 1174- France 379 15- Austria 1145- Canada 355 16- Russia 1046- England 345 17- Norwey 927- Spain 338 18- Belgium 738- Brazil 257 19- Sweden 739- Poland 233 20- Czech Rep. 6310- Switzerland 157 21- Japan 6111- Italy 143 Others Countries 576 Total 7096Total of visitors per season, month and week (2009/10)Season Month Week VisitorsLow November 3 129 4 377Medium December 1 283 2 373 3 445 4 637High January 1 771 2 784 3 717 4 629 February 1 537Medium 2 504 3 346 4 208Low March 1 195 2 161 3 4

Total 7096

Visitors by activity season 2009/10Activity VisitorsClimbing 3712One day and Short Trekking 2930Long Trekking 454Total 7096Historical record of visitorsMonth 05/06 06/07 07/08 08/09 09/10Nov. 491 539 586 466 506Dec. 1984 1996 1998 1881 1738Jan. 2636 2769 2985 2721 2901Feb. 1596 1536 1560 1351 1595March 583 473 529 254 356Total 7290 7313 7658 6673 7096 Visitors by gender season 2009/10Season VisitorsFemale 1818Male 5278Total 7096 Visitors by age season 2007/08Age Visitors To 15 2516 - 20 25021 - 30 249831 - 40 239041 - 50 147751 - 60 74461 - 70 256+ 71 18Total 7658

Services - Medical service

In the official season of Aconcagua Park (which generally goes from November 15 through March 15 each year) there is free medical assistance and prevention service.

It is located in the center of Plaza de Mulas. It is advisable to go daily for general checks, oxygen saturation in blood or any doubts that might come up. In Plaza Argentina this service is offered only in the high season (December 15- January 31 each year).

Medicine - Rescue team

In Aconcagua, as in any mountain this size, there is a rescue team in charge of helping with any risky situation related to a medical emergency or an evacuation. This task is performed by the rescue team of the Mendoza Police Department. Its goal is to safeguard the lives of the visitors on the Normal Route from Plaza de Mulas to the summit and to take them to the medical service of the Administration of Natural Resources from where the evacuation is coordinated to the park exit.The routes on the South wall and on the Polish Glacier are not included in the regular coverage of the patrols since

they are considered high risk; therefore, those climbers who choose them must take all the necessary precautions in case of an emergency. Anyway, the park rangers constantly monitor what is happening on these routes in VHF, 24 hours a day.

Many people participate in the rescue operations such as park rangers, guides and other climbers as patrol assistants, due to the danger of descending a sick person from the altitude camps, mainly due to the geography of this park and the long distances between the different camps. Climbers must be aware that even if there is a rescue team, they should not take unnecessary risks beyond their strength. Help may take several hours to arrive as long as they receive the corresponding warning.

This is why we recommend maximum care and caution to avoid problems.Nobody has the right to risk his life and, even less, that of the members of the rescue team.Permanently monitoring for emergencies: radio frequency 142.8 MHZ FM.

Servicios - Park rangers

Since 1990 Aconcagua Park has had a park ranger service which controls the protected area and helps the visiting climbers. This service is present in all the base camps and often in the ascent routes.

It is in charge of:Keeping the orderChecking cleanlinessControlling the campshelping and informing climbersControlling the service providers (in case of problems or complaints report immediately)Exercising power of police inside the park Coordinating evacuations * Checking admission permits (in Horcones and Punta de Vacas) Controlling waste collection (of individuals and service providers) These are some of the duties, among other.

* Together with the medical service and the rescue patrol to the park exit. Evacuations will be coordinated by the medical staff in charge of emergencies, by the means they consider necessary or which are available (mules, helicopters, ambulance). Besides, when the park ranger or physician judge that the climbers' equipment or physical conditions are poor, they will be advised in writing not to ascend.

The responsibility for control and watch only includes from the park entrance to the base camps (4300 meters above sea level). Beyond that altitude, they perform only evacuation and cleaning duties. For all these tasks, the park rangers have an adequate equipment and modern communication systems which allow them permanent radio coverage all over the park in VHF to prevent emergencies. The radio frequency is 142.8 MHZ FM.

The park administration is located in Horcones and from there the work of the different camps is coordinated, mainly those in which the park rangers are always present such as Confluencia, Plaza de Mulas, Nido de Cóndores, Punta de Vacas, Pampa de Leñas and Plaza Argentina.

Services - Sanitary services

In all park ranger or service provider camps there are restrooms. Their use is mandatory, and those visitors who violate this regulation will be fined U$S 100 which will have to be paid immediately. In case the person does not have the required cash, his/her equipment will be retained until the fine is paid.All campers must have a sanitary service, either supplied by the service provider or by the ecological restrooms that can be rented in the park.

Waste ControlEach visitor to the park will be supplied with a numbered garbage bag upon entrance, which will have to be handed in to the park rangers on the way out with the corresponding trash. It should be born in mind that non-compliance with this regulation carries a fine of U$S 100 which will have to be paid immediately.

Many service providers take responsibility for bringing down garbage themselves, and in this case they sign and stamp the admission permit of each customer assuming that responsibility.

Climbing Routes(from www.aconcagua.com)

Normal Route

Leaving Plaza de Mulas you follow the route indicated in the accompanying chart. It is advisable to make a first stage and set up a base camp at the top part of the "Portezuelo del Manso" (5,200 m). It is a good practice to stay at the base camp for a couple of days for a proper acclimatation. The area is characterized by a great number of rocks which allow for well-protected camps. Depending on snowfall intensity during the winter time, in some seasons there may form a small lake which provides the necessary water supply for expeditions. The "Antartida Argentina" refuge (5,500 m) is no longer used by climbers since it now lies way off the route.

From "Portezuelo del Manso" or Camp 1, climbing gently up easy alluvium paths, you reach refuges "Plantamura", "Libertad" and "Berlin" (6,000 m) . At this altitude many expedition also stay for a couple of days for acclimatation. From this point two alternative routes are possible: the first one is to scale all the way up to the summit, an exhausting climb in itself. The second one is to reach refuge "Independencia" (6,500 m) and from there, on the following day, go up to the top. The first alternative is the most usual, but you are very likely to be caught by the darkness of night on the way down. Whereas the second one, though implying shorter journeys, has the disadvantage that it may become very rough to stay overnight at such altitudes, matters being aggravated by the fact that the refuge is half in ruins.

In any case, and due to the numerous expeditions trying to reach the top week after week, the use of tents is more than necessary, since all the refuges are like small bivouacs with capacity for 3 or 4 people. Coming down there is a natural predisposition to follow the route of the Gran Acarreo, but this way will invariably deviate you from the refuges. There is no natural protection against eventual storms and bad weather in this route. If there is a tempest, it is suicidal to go down following the way of the Gran Acarreo, hoping you can do it more rapidly. We know by experience that there is no natural defense where you can wait under protection until fury of the storm has passed. Both ascending and descending it is always prudent to follow the rock of the North West where you will find the refuges.

If physical conditions are good in the ascension, you can calculate 20-40% less time for the descent. If you are very tired after the ascension, this calculation is not helpful because at these heights recovery is not possible. So you need more Or less the same time for coming down as you used for ascent. This northern route does not present technical difficulties, but you must not forget storms of an unbelievale force and altitude "puna". You must observe all the serious rules of mountain safety . Otherwise, any mistake can be fatal and form of suicide.

Polish Glacier RouteAscending the deep pass of river Vacas and Relinchos where you will find lots of water courses with enough firewood you arrive at the base camp "Plaza Argentina", "Plaza de Mulas Superior" (4.100 mts.). From the base camp you ascend in direction West-North-West by serius slopes of up to 4.700 mts. once you passed the big outcrop rock you can set up camp 1. Then you. go on in the same direction and will come to Portezuelo Ameghino (5.300 mts.). You go on South West direction, ascending by the North of Westcrest until you arrive at 5.800 mts. Approximately this is the beginning of the Polish Glacier and there you

may set up camp 3. Once on the glacier you do not leave it until you arrive at 6.500 mts. Very close to the side of the edge and in a place protected by the rocks, you find camp 4, named "Piedra Bandera". To attack the summit it is convenient to camp at 6.700 mts. The distance. from Punta de Vacas to the base camp is approximately 60 kms. Since access is fairly easy many expeditions get to the base of the Polish Glacier either through the Northwest route or the Normal route, departing from the refuges installed at 6.000 mts.

French Route Inferior Horcones - South WallThe South wall presents in its 3.000 mts. a crag which was used by a French expedition in its first ascension in 1954. This crag gives a relative security against avalanches. The base camp (4.100 mts.) named "Plaza Francia" is situated at the left side of the beginning of the crag. You get to camp 1 by the gradient of strong slope and simple to scale on the base of the "Grandes

Tortes" at 4.900 mts. These formations are sulcated by access canals and generally covered with ice. So you need excellent technical skill on rock to cope with 4° (+) of difficulty. After this the way is open to Camp 2 (5.800 mts.) at the base of the Inferior Glacier. After a walk over a considerable icependant end after passing a little rock parapet you overcome the "cascada" of superior glacier using artificial technique on ice. This represents a vertical cut of approximately 50 mts. The superior glacier presents a convenient "plateau" for the installation of camp 3 (6.400 mts). Traversing to the right hand side you come to the final part and key to the superior crag. Because of the terrain's demands (5° grade of difficulty) you must set up a camp 4 on 6.700 mts. from where you attack the top. Descent is normally undertaken by the north face or normal route.

South West Route - Edge Ibañez, Grajales, MarmillodFrom Plaza de Mulas Vieja (4.230 mts.) after a short horizontal walk to the South you ascend by the slope of gradient and in a 6 to 7 hours day you will arrive at the first walls and at the last point of ascension without scale. There you may put up camp 1 (5.500 mts). The next day you advance to the foot of the walls going up and down following laces and stony tracks in direction of the South crest at a distance of approximately 2 1/2 kilometers. At half the distance the mountain is crossed by a big channel which constitutes the key to the ascension. This channel permits to arrive at the superior edge avoiding the part between. 6.000 and 6.600 meters which presents various vertical and impracticable towers. To arrive at the channel base you must dominate a first rocky rank of 100 meters, which sorrounds like a belt this whole face of the mountain. This obstacle is passed over advancing in direction of the crest. When you arrive close to it you will find a deep channel. So you ascend until the base of the first vertical tower of the edge near the point marked 6.009 meters in the topography 1/50.000 of the Geographic Argentine Institute. From this point on you go to the North some 200 meters down sloping a stony track until arriving at the base of the "Gran Canal". On a roof -like rock at 5.700 mts. you will find camp 2, only 200 meters above camp 1 with a slight deviation to the South in the vertical sense of the mountain. You attack the channel by a slope. of polished rock which becomes straight after a hundred meters and forms a toboggan slide of snow between two rocky walls. Further up, the terrain becomes wider again. Finally you come to an open pendant which ends on a vertical wall and forms a cut of the edge on the right hand side but looses height on the left hand side . The route goes in diagonal in this last direction. There, between the snow and the wall base you find a relatively good place to put up the third camp at 6.400 meters. From there you follow the superior border wall, which is a secondary crest in the west flank, until arriving at the junction point with the South

crest (probably point 6.707 meters in topograph~ 1/50.000 of G.M.A.I.)- You go forward using the principal edge which you do not leave until you arrive at the top. You descend by the crest which joins both tops (crest of Guanaco) and take the superior part of the "Gran Acarreo" of the Northern face, very close to the principal summit.

East Glacier - Argentine RouteThe approximation route is through Valley de las Vacas and Relinchos up to Plaza Argentina Superior. The East Glacier lies between the Polish Glacier and the South Wall, and it begins above 6.300 m, with a maximum slope between 60-65 degrees. The bottom stages do not pose great difficulty, its most complicated part lying at 6,200 m where a drop on the rock about 400 m high offers the greatest difficulty. The final part is reached very close to the summit along the edge of the Polish Glacier. This route was conquered for the first time in February 1978 by Argentine climbers Guillermo Vieyro, Jorge Jasson and Edgardo

Porcellana.

South West Ridge - Mendocinian RouteThis new variant going past the Pyramid, was first scaled in January 1982 by Carlos Sansoni and Sergio Buglio. You enter it through the Horcones Valley, climbing up to the top of the Pyramid peak (6.000 m). From there, along a chute or "gutter"

close to the 6.100 m it intersects the original route of the Southwest Ridge which leads to the South summit. The descent is done down the Great Alluvium (Gran Acarreo) to Plaza de Mulas.

South Face – (1-Sun Line 2-Eslovenian 82 3-Polish variant 4-French variant 5-French 6-7 Upper and lower Argentines variant 8-Messner variant 9-Japanese variant 10-Russian roulette 11-Fonrouge/Schonberger 12-French direct 13-Eslovenian 86 14- Argentine route)

East Face - (16-Argentine Route 17-Polish Glacier-18 Polish variant 19-Polish Glacier direct 20-Spanish variant)

North West – (25-Normal Route 26- Mendocinian Guides Route 28- West Face 30- Esteban Escaiola route)

Northwest Face – (29-Mendocinian Route (Tapia) 31-Ibanez/Grajales/Marmillod 32-Zabaleta variant 33-Mendocinos Variant)

Northwest Face – (33-Mendocinos Variant, 26-Sun Line)

(From - www.aconcaguaexpeditions.com)

Aconcagua - Since Aconcagua is a large mountain, it has different routes with several levels of difficulty. It has some regular routes for people who do not have much experience, and others which only a few people in the world have been able to climb. These routes are:

Aconcagua - South Wall:

1- Sun Line: it was climbed in 1988 by Slavko Sveticic and Milan Romih. It goes along the South edge from Portillo del Sargento Mas, going past mount Piramidal; difficulty: ED, VII, A3, 90°.2-Yugoslavian or Slovenian: climbed in 1982, it goes toward the South summit by the meridional mixed pillar. It can only be climbed in the first and last hours of the day.3-Polish Variant: climbed in 1987, it is the most difficult route to the summit to date, with an entrance of 1000 meters (V, 90°), different from the meridional spur by the Central route.4- Yugoslavian or Slovenian Variant: it joins the French variants in the big towers. It was climbed in 1982.5-French La Pargot Route: the first route on the wall, it goes along the central spur. Camps can be set up at 4900, 5800, 6400 and 6700 meters above sea level. It was climbed in 1985.6-Lower Argentinian Variant: the entrance is slightly more straight than the French variant, but it is still a route. It was climbed in February 1992.7-Upper Argentinian Variant: opened in the same ascent as the previous one, it leaves Messner in a V+ spur.8-Messner Exit Variant: from glacier superior it goes left on a 55° gradient toward a waterway between both summits on the Guanaco edge. There are camps at 5200 and 6100 meters above sea level.9-Japanese Variant: it starts from the French variant behind glacier Superior. It heads to the North summit through the spur to the right. The rock is poor and the route badly marked. There are camps at 5200 and 6100 meters above sea level. It was undertaken for the first time by a Japanese climber.10-The Russian Roulette: it assaults the Seracs from the front (95°) and the middle glacier. It joins the central route.11-Central Route or Fonrouge/Schonberger: climbed by the Argentine José Fonrouge, it goes all the way through the middle glacier and joins the French route before a barrier of Seracs. There are camps at 6290, 6400 and 6800 meters above sea level. It is the easiest route on this wall, but the most dangerous too due to slides from glacier Superior.12-French Direct Route: first climbed in 1985, it leaves from the central route and takes the Southeast spur. It joins the Argentine route at about 6000 meters in glacier Superior.13-Slovenian Route: it is a variant of the Pasic Route on ice (90°) and VI on rock. In 1993, the Argentine A. Randis undertook this route for the first time. It represents a variant of the Central route going to the left.14-Argentine or Pasic Route: climbed in 1966, it is the longest and least difficult on this wall. There are camps at 4800, 5400, 6000 y 6400 meters above sea level. The Seracs join the Relinchos glacier, also called Pasic Glacier, with glacier Superior.

Aconcagua - East Wall:

15-Southeast Edge: from Plaza Argentina it goes to Pasic glacier and takes the East edge to join the route of the East glacier. From Plaza Francia, it is necessary to go across Saddle Relinchos. It was first climbed in 1966.16-Argentine Route, or Route of the East glacier: it was climbed in 1978, and goes all the way through the East glacier. The glacier does not exceed 50° and joins the East ridge. Here starts a rotten rock wall, 400 meters high with an initial exposed first stretch of V+.17-Polish Glacier: it goes along the Polish Glacier, with a 40° gradient, and today it can be climbed from Nido de

Cóndores in one day. It is the pearl for all skiers.18-Polacos Variant: it goes through the center of the glacier, dodging the Seracs and reaching the East ridge.19-Direct Route to the Polacos Variant: it was climbed in 1961. It goes along the left margin of the glacier with similar difficulties to the original route.20- Altoaragonesa Variant: it was climbed in 1995. These are corridors that leave the Polish Glacier and have a gradient of 75° and IV+ passes. After a long flanking, it joins the direct route at 6500 meters above sea level.

Aconcagua - North Wall:

21-False Polacos Route: it is a long diagonal route from 5900 meters above sea level, searching for the Normal Route between Piedras Blancas and Independencia. It can be undertaken to descend since it is an easy road.22-Route from Nido de Cóndores to Polacos: it can be climbed almost as one wishes, also in two directions.23-From Berlín to Polacos: using this route, it is possible to join the direct Polacos route before the bottleneck.24-North wall: climbed in 1986, it is easy from Berlín, but it is difficult to find the way between corridors and little towers.

Aconcagua - Northwest Wall:

25-Normal, Northwest: the first route of on the mountain and the most used, it was climbed in 1897 by Matthias Zurbriggen.26-Direct: climbed in 1991. From Canada camp it goes to the north spur of the West wall, about 650 meters from the Normal Route. Rocky stretch (III) at 5600 meters above sea level and 50° corridor. It finishes at the entrance of the gully.27-Mendoza Guides Route: climbed in 1991, it goes to the right of the Normal Route and to the left of the Southeast edge. Camps are to be found at 5150 and 5750 meters above sea level.

Aconcagua - West Wall:

28-West Edge: it starts from the Acarreo to join the Great Acarreo. It is located at the right of the Antártida shelter. There passages of bad rock up to the South summit and a camp at 5200 meters above sea level.29-Mendocinian Route or Tapia de Felipe Route: climbed in1988, it starts from the West edge and goes to the beginning of Esteban Escaiola corridor. It leaves it to the left and faces almost in the vertical side of the summit a dangerous and narrow canal with rock barriers and ice cascades. It can also be taken from Canada and it has three camps.

30-Esteban Escaiola Route: climbed in 1991. It is necessary to climb a cliff to the South of Plaza de Mulas and then a culoir that goes to the upper steps on the wall and to the right towards the South summit. There is a camp at 4800 meters above sea level.31-Southwest Ridge, Ibáñez/Grajales/Marmillod Route: climbed in 1953, from the Acarreo it goes to the key canal of the West wall, which goes along several gullies to two vertical towers first and then with flankings to the left until it reaches Grajales culoir which ends in the South ridge.32-Southwest EdgeVariant or Zabaleta Variant: instead of the gully next to mount Piramidal under the Marmillod towers, this variant goes beyond one of the rotten rock steps up to a platform to end in Grajales couloir. There are four camps at 5300, 5500, 6400 meters above sea level and another one between the second and the third at an unknown altitude.33-Mendocinian Route, Mendocinian Variant: climbed in 1982, it goes along the South edge from Sargento Mas ravine and the summit of mount Piramidal. To take the edge it makes a flanking and then an aerial spur. Then it takes the Grajales couloir and requires rappelling from mount Piramidal.

Aconcagua via Normal route / Horcones valley

Header Name Position Altitude (From the GPS, not accurate)

Waypoint Puente del Inca S32 49.478 W69 54.572 8928 ft

Waypoint  Vacas Trailhead S32 51.042 W69 45.653  7794 ft

Waypoint Water S32 45.582 W69 48.320 9298ft

Waypoint Water S32 45.388 W69 48.441  9357 ft

Waypoint Las Lenas (newer site) S32 45.119 W69 48.454   

Waypoint Bridge S32 44.677 W69 48.540 9514 ft

Waypoint 1st view of Aconcagua S32.38.234 W 69 50.295   

Waypoint Old Case Piedre camp S32 38.088 W 69 50.291   

Waypoint Cross River S32 38.013 W69 50.437 10702 ft

Waypoint Water S32 38.145 W69 51.709 11079 ft

Waypoint Big Hill S32 38.213 W69 51.863 11190 ft

Waypoint Cross River 2 S32 38.329 W69 52.322 11661 ft

Waypoint Plaza Argentina Base Camp S32 38.749 W 69 56.683    

Waypoint Camp 1 (16,020 ft) S32.38.300 W 69 58.676  

Waypoint Col Camp S32 38.297 W 69 59.551   

Waypoint Camp 2 (19,000 ft) (we were crossing the glacier to the normal route, so this is a camp location on a moraine on the glacier, about 150 yards west of the standard camp located among the cliffs to the east of the glacier)

S32 38.493 W 69 59.904  

Waypoint  High Camp (20,300 ft.) (this is thejunction of the Falso de los Polacos and the Ruta Normal trails)

S32 38.637 W 70 00.890   

Waypoint Independencia S32 38.712 W70 00.962 13319 ft

Waypoint  Aconcagua Summit (Rob reading) S32 39.188 W70 00.719 22612 ft

 Aconcagua via Polish Glacier Traverse / Vacas valley

Header Name Position Altitude (From the GPS, not accurate)

Waypoint Park Entrance (Horcones) S32 49.469 W69 56.526  Waypoint  Ranger Station S32 48.630 W69 56.490  Waypoint Confluencia S32 45.416 W69 57.887  Waypoint Piedra Grande S32 44.130 W70 00.050   Waypoint Hotel Refugio S32 39.220 W70 03.790  

Waypoint Old Plaza de Mulas S32 39.371 W70 03.371  Waypoint Plaza de Mulas S32 38.840 W70 03.490  

Waypoint Camp Canada S32 38.268 W70 02.583   

Waypoint Nido de Condores S32 38.160 W70 01.790  Waypoint Berlin Huts S32 38.260 W70 01.270

Plaza de Mulas (14,000 feet)

There is water around and big rocks that protect the placing of tents. "Plaza de Mulas" is an excellent place for acclimatization. From "Plaza de Mulas" it is possible to reach in a single day (or two) the neighbouring peaks, all over 5000mts high. The glaciar "Horcones Superior" is also a great place to visit and climb in its great gendarme and ice towers. The peak "Cuervo" (5450 mts.) is a valued alpinistic objetive. Its sides offer all kind of possibilities. From simple ascension to difficult climbs through the south walls. This wall has an unevenness of about 800 ms. Its direct way opened in 1986 by the swiss F. Mariani and R Notaris, has rope lengths or extreme difficulty. It is easy to reach "Plaza de Mulas" since there is a clear marked by the permanent transit of mountaineers and live stock. The river is crossed through bridges. The distance from "Puente Del Inca" (2700mts.) is about 36 km and the difference in height is 1500 mts. It is advisable to do the journeys in two days.

Services: Park Rangers - Medical-Rescure Patrol - Phone - Helicopter .Timing: Puente del Inca - Confluencia (3 to 6hs)-Confluencia - Plaza de Mulas (6 to 8 hs).Access: Ruta normal-Southwest ladder-West side-Polish Glaciar.

Plaza Francia (4,100 mts)

It is located over the left orografic margin of the glaciar "Horcones inferior". There are a lot of places suitable for acamping determined by small streams wich go down from the "sur del circo" counterfort. In that place there is no vegetation and

winds are not a problem, but it is important to place lents out of the way of the big rocks, that go down fast from the nighbouring counterforts. It is important no to understimate this.From "Plaza Francia", you can climb the "Almacenes" hill (4800 mts.) and "Mirador" hill (5800mts. ). You can also climb and familiar with the rocks of that area, in the walls of the neighbouring big "Gendarmes". Starting at "Puente del Inca" (2700 mts.) there are 26 kms and the difference in hight is approximately 1400 mts. The path is marked by the permanent transit of the mountaineers and live stock. It is possible to reach Plaza Francia in a day mark (7 to 13 hs.).In "Confluencia" it is not necessary to cross the river, as it as in the way to "Plaza de Mulas". You must follow the path that is located over the left orografic margin in the "quebrada".Services: HelicopterTiming: Puente del Inca - Confluencia (3 to 6hs)-Confluencia - Plaza Francia (3 to 5 hs) Access route: south wall.

Confluencia

It is an advisable site to spend the first night walk in the approximation to the base camping areas of "Plaza de Mulas" or "Plaza Francia". The site has drinkable water, and there is room for camping and forester service. It is around 3100 mts height. It is there where "Horcones Superior" and Inferior river are joined.You get there from "Laguna de los Horcones" in approximately four hours march. Services: Park Rangers - Helicopter

Plaza ArgentinaIt is located at 4100 mts and it is a good place for camping. In order to reach these place, the starting point is "Punta de Vacas" (2400 mts.) and them you have to go north of "de las Vacas" river. There is water and firewood in all the deep pass, the path is well marked. Over the left orografic margin of "de las Vacas" river, at 15 km, the "casa de las Leñas" is located (2350 mts.). You can cross " de las vacas" river 31 km from "Punta de Vacas". Finally, and over the left margin of the same river, small shelter "casa de Piedras" (3060 m) is located, 47 km from the starting point.Just in front of the mouth of "de los relinchos" river. This little shelter is mimetized with the view an it is difficult to be found. In this place you can find water. From the surraoundings of "casa de Piedras", you must leave "de las vacas" river and continue to the west along "rio de los relinchos". There the pendent grows and several hard slopes appear. Finally you will acceed to a flat lowland (3800mts.). It is convenient to continue climbing cross the river (with high margins) an continue until the big very characteristic "square rock" around 20 mts high. Inmediatly after that you must go down a few meters to a big esplanade wich is at the mercy of the winds. That place has water an is apropiate for camping called "Plaza Argentina" (4100 mts.). The distance from "Punta de 

Vacas" is around 60 km there is a difference of 2000 of height, is convenient to complete the journey in a three day march.

Services: Park Rangers - Medical - Helicopter - PhoneTiming: < Day 1: Punta de Vacas - "Leñas" shelter (3 to 6 hs)< Day 2: Leñas shelter - Vacas river - Casa de Piedras shelter (5 to 8 hs)< Day 3: Casa de Piedras - Plaza Argentina (5 to 8)hs.

7Summit.com – Itinerary (for Normal Route)

Day 1: Mendoza (760)We will be waiting for you at the airport to take you to the hotel. On this day our guide will check your mountain equipment and accompany you to hire the necessary things. You will lodge and enjoy the comforts of one of the best hotels in Mendoza city. (Food is not included)

Day 2: Mendoza / Puente del Inca (2.725)Before going to Puente del Inca, the whole group will apply for the climbing permit with the guides’ assistance. You will have lunch and spend the night in Puente del Inca hostel. In the afternoon, the mules are loaded and prepared for the following day. (B, L, D)

Day 3: Puente del Inca / Confluencia (3.300) The group will be taken to the entrance of the Park in a private van. There permits will be presented and you will start with the trekking to Confluencia Camp. The equipment will be carried by mules. At arrival, you will set up your tent with your partner and will be able to rest. (B, PL, D)

Day 4: Confluencia / Plaza Francia (4.000) / ConfluenciaTrek to Plaza Francia, base of the south face of Mt. Aconcagua. Here you will enjoy a delicious lunch and a spectacular view. Then you will return to Confluencia. This trekking is considered part of the acclimatization process, fundamental in our expedition. (B, PL, D)

Day 5: Confluencia / Plaza de Mulas (4.260)The trek to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp lasts around 8 hours. You will stay in our own base camp with the necessary commodities for you to be as comfortable as possible. (B, PL, D)

Day 6: Plaza de Mulas  Resting day. You will make a short trek to the glacier so as to improve your use of crampons. These kinds of activities facilitate your success in the mountain. (B, L, D)

Day 7: Plaza de Mulas / Camp 1 “Canada” (4.910) / Plaza de MulasAcclimatization Trek to Camp 1 “Canada” where you will have lunch and then return to the Base Camp. This trek lasts around 5 hours. (B, PL, D)

Day 8: Plaza de Mulas / Mt. Bonete (5.100) / Plaza de MulasAcclimatization trekking to Mt. Bonete summit and return to Plaza de Mulas. This trekking will take about 6 hours and you will reach 5.100 m of altitude. This activity will definitely turns on all the acclimatization mechanisms. (B, PL, D)

Day 9: Plaza de MulasResting and acclimatization day. On this day you will make sure that your equipment is ready and you will rest to be strong for the next days that demand more effort. (B, L, D)

Day 10: Plaza de Mulas / Camp 1 “Canadá”After a 3-hour trek, you will reach Camp 1. The group will have lunch and set up tents. You will begin feeling the effects of altitude on your body. (B, PL, D)

Day 11: Camp 1 “Canadá” / Camp 2 “Nido de Cóndores” (5.250)Climb to Camp 2. This trek lasts 4 hours. As on the previous days, you will set up tents with the guides’ help. You can rest after this. (B, PL, D)

Day 12: Camp 2 “Nido de Cóndores” / Camp 3 “Berlín” (5.900) Climb to Camp 3 “Berlin”. This will be a short hike, around 3 hours, but all your strength is needed due to the characteristics of this part of the route. This is the last altitude camp before the summit. (B, PL, D)

Day 13: Camp 3 “Berlin” / Summit (6.962) / Camp 3 “Berlin”Climb from Camp 3 to the summit and return to Camp 3. The great day! The group will get up very early in the morning, have breakfast and start climbing. You will get to the summit, where you will live an unforgettable experience, and return to Berlin. You will sleep that night with the satisfaction of having reached your aim. (B, PL, D)

Day 14: Camp 3 “Berlín”/ Plaza de MulasYou will descend to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. The group will have the day free to share those emotions experienced throughout the expedition. (B, PL, D)

Day 15: Plaza de Mulas / Puente del Inca / MendozaDescent to Puente del Inca and last trek in the expedition. Your belongings will be carried by mules so you will only take a light bag pack with a jacket and your packed lunch. Transfer to Mendoza city. Lodge in the hotel. (B, PL)

Day 16: MendozaBreakfast. End of services. (B)

Day 17: Extra day for contingencies that may prevent the normal development of the program.

Day 18: Extra day for contingencies that may prevent the normal development of the program.

Itinerary and information from www.summitpost.org (http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150197/aconcagua.html)On the Normal route a two day walk (overnight at Confluencia) will get you to a large basecamp (Plaza de Mules 13,500 feet approx). Stay on the left side as you enter camp (many loose bolders make there way down on the right side). Then up camp 2 or Camp Canada at 16,200 approx. This is a good acclimatization stop but has limited space sometimes. Some people continue up to Nido des Condores (approx 18,000 feet) which is a large area but can be very exposed to the wind and elements. It is also a very big push from base camp at 13,500 feet and can break a lot of people. Camp 3 is at Berlin (19,300 feet approx). From here you can go to the summit easily if you have acclimitized well. I use the word easily loosely, most of you will know what I mean. Non technical but a real slog in scree. Day one- Puenta del inca to Confuencia.(9,200 ft) 3-4 hours Day two- Confluencia to base camp. (13,000 ft) 6-7 hours Day three- Rest day Day four- Carry to Camp Canada (16,000 ft)4-6 hours Day five- Move up to Camp Canada 4-6 hours Day six- Rest day Day seven- Carry to Berlin (19,100 ft) 5-6 hours Day eight- Move up to Berlin (19,100 ft) 5-6 hours Day nine- Rest day and trail exploration 2-3 hours Day ten- Summit day 8-12 hours round trip 8-12 hours Day eleven- Clean up camp and decend to basecamp.3-4 hours Day twelve- Arrange mules and walk out to Puenta del Inca or Confluencia 6-8 hours

Day thirteen- Walk-out if you camped at Confluencia 2-3 hoursNote: Add extra summit days for bad weather.

Suggestion from Author: Alpinist, Date: Dec 30, 2005 12:30 PMThe conditions at Camp Berlin were quite poor when I was there in December 2005. There was human feces and toilet paper under every small rock, garbage everywhere, and the strong smell of urine in the air. As an alternative, consider camping at Camp Coléra. It is only ~200 feet (70 meters) higher than Berlin and much cleaner. Upon arrival at Berlin, take an immediate left. Follow the trail that traverses the ridge towards the black rocks near the top.

MulesEach mule can only take 60 kilos (two 30 kilo bags balanced). So each duffle you bring should not exceed 30 kilos. As a rule clients are allowed 30 kilos including their food. Not including tents and communal gear. You will be charged two days in and one day back for the walk in in the normal route. For the walk out, it will depend on whether you hire mules who just brought gear in or if they came in empty just for you. Try to negotiate in advance for dropoff and pickup. Radios are useful here and the Rangers can be of great help.

For the Polish side you will be charged 3 days in and one to two days out for the approach and its the same story for the walk out as on the normal route.

Mule prices can vary but it works to about 150 USD perday for and mule driver and two mules (120 kilos). This is only a guide things change depending on how desperate you are and availability, size of group. Eight people would use 4 mules (2x30 = 60 kilos per mule) plus probably 2 mules (2x60 kilos of communal gear). You would probably have three muleteers.

Just an example for the Polish Traverse - Group size - 3 people.December 2001 it cost for two mules in (three days) and one mule out (two days) including the Mule driver $ 750$US

Some Mule providers Aconcagua Express You can reach them by email and their web sites at http://www.kladventure.com/ , http://www.aconcagua-express.com/ or by email info@aconcagua-express.com, usa@aconcagua-express.com, joaquin@kladventure.com ask for former speed skier, Joaquin Oyarzun Tel. (56-2) 2179101 Cell (56-9) 7996441 and (54-261) 15-5694184Santiago OfficeTel / Fax 56-2-2193786Sales Office in ConconPhone / Fax 56-32-817366

Marketing OfficeAvda Borgoño # 23730 Concon Viña del MarPhone / fax: 56-32-817366

Administration Ph & Fax: 56-2-2193786Mobil Argentina: 54-261-155-94184Satellite Plaza de Mulas: 874-762-641-961Satellite Plaza Argentina: 874-762-641-953info@aconcagua-express.comusa@aconcagua-express.comwww.aconcagua-express.com

Rudy ParraE-mail: rudy@lanet.com.ar or aconcagua@rudyparra.com

Fernando Grajales Expeditionshttp://www.grajales.net/TelFax: 54-261-4283157Cell: 549-261-(15)5007718/9Toll free: 800-516-6962www.grajales.net

Osvaldo Carbajal of Lanko-altas montañasVilla Los Penitentes, Mendoza, Lanko-altas montañaswww.lanko.com.are-mail: info@lanko.com.arexpeditions, porters, mules, base camp, etcTelephone numbers:00-54-261-444348600-54-261-4322291

Daniel AlessioCasilla de Correos 33, 5505 Mendoza, Fax: 54-61-962201, E-mail: alessio@lanet.losandes.com.ar, Home phone# 054-261-4962201.

Daniel LopezHas a food tent set-up at plaza argentinahttp://ar.geocities.com/daniellopezexpeditions/email: aconca20@yahoo.com or hotmail.comphone/fax 54 261 4456509

Climate ConsiderationsThe atmospheric pressure diminishes with the altitude following an exponential relationship. At sea level the pressure corresponds to 1 atmosphere or 760 mm of Hg. Its value is half of this at 5500 meters and up at the 7000 meters of the peak of Aconcagua, it is at 308 mm of Hg. The humidity of the air diminishes with the altitude but with a higher slope than the atmospheric pressure. From the norm of 4000 meters, when the atmospheric pressure is two thirds that of sea level, the humidity only represents a quarter of its value at sea level:

-0°C with wind of 40 km/h = -15°C. + 7.5°C with wind of 64 km/h = -7.5°C -25°C with wind of 64 km/h = -60°C, danger of exposed areas freezing in 30 minutes

The temperature also notably influences the relative ambient humidity.

+20°C in 1 kg of air contains 150 grams of water, while at -20°C there is only 7.8 grams.

The freezing affect of the wind is known and terrible, it is enough to remember the following values of the wind chill factor

7.5°C with wind of 64 km/h = -30°C, danger of exposed areas freezing in one hour

The humidity multiples the effect of the cold 13 times.

The peak of Aconcagua can be a sweet and complacent woman if the goddess of the sun (Febo) shines and the god of the wind (Eolo) sleeps, but when the furies of the gods of the wind are unleashed and the dragons of the clouds devour the sky, the peak turns into a terrifying and cold witch. Only when you have seen the two completely different sides of this mountain and its special climate, can you really love and understand it completely.The Central Argentine Andes and Mt. Aconcagua in particular receive the humidity of the winds that come from the anticyclonic centers of the Pacific Ocean. The climatic phenomenon known as the Zonda wind has an explanation similar to the Fohn of Europe The anticyclones of the Pacific emit humid winds that blow towards the East, that is to say, winds of the West. These winds rise, and as they crash agains the mountain range mass, get cold and precipitate their humidity in the form of snow in the high peaks. Later, the dried air masses descend over the eastern flank of the mountain range, heating progressively (adiabatically).

This movement of air coming from the Pacific is the principal cause of the snow and wind storms that are unleashed on Aconcagua. But electric storms also exist, and form due to a micro climate of the zone, and are particularly terrible. These electric storms brew exclusively during the summer and are not to be underestimated. All of the North West flank of the mountain, as well as the peak and the crests, are exposed if lightning bolts are produced. In this mountain, due to its great size, another special phenomenon takes place . Strong winds from the West sometimes blow in the high altitudes, affecting the high part of the mountain (5500 meters and above), forming a big mushroom or lentil shaped cloud. Even in good weather, Plaza de Mulas, the presence of the mushroom is an unmistakable sign of strong wind and precipitation in the altitude. Getting inside this mushroom can have a fatal result. When the next formation is observed it is necessary to abandon the upper part of the mountain.

As far as the temperature registered in summer is concerned , you have to consider that during the night (even in good weather) above 5000 meters, negative 20 degrees Celsius is common. At the summit it is frequent to register negative 30 degrees Celsius. During bad weather or in the presence of air masses coming from the South, in Mule Plaza (Plaza de Mulas) it is frequent to see temperatures of mimus 18 degrees Celsius, while in the upper part of the mountain negative 25 Celsius is not too strange. During the majority of the days and nights the temperatures aren't as rigorous. It is possible to wear a bathing suit around noontime at the base camp (4200 meters) or to stay at the peak at the same time of day, with only a thick shirt or a light anorak.These great temperature variations oblige the mountaineer to always be prepared. During the winter the zone is heavily covered with snow, and the winds are always violent and constant. The temperature rarely exceeds 0 degrees Celsius. In the shadowy places it is always well below zero. Climbing Aconcagua in the winter season is a great test of psycho-physical performance, and much experience and high quality equipment are a necessity.

 

The weather in Mendoza now (http://www.meteofa.mil.ar/?mod=pron&id=4&provincia=Mendoza&ciudad=Mendoza)

The weather and Forecast in Punta de Vacas (60 Kms. of Base Camp) (http://www.meteofa.mil.ar/?mod=pron&id=4&provincia=Mendoza&ciudad=Punta%20de%20Vacas)

Satelite Image (http://www.meteofa.mil.ar/pronosticos/satelite/topes.php?titulo=%20Temperatura%20de%20topes%20nubosos%3Cbr%3EAmpliaci%F3n%20Zona%20centro&variable=tcentro.jpg)

Satelite Image animation (http://www.meteofa.mil.ar/mostrar.php?var=./pronos/imagenes/animacion.gif&titulo=Animaci%F3n%20de%20las%20%FAltimas%20cinco%20im%E1genes%20disponibles)

The weather and forecast in Aconcagua´s base Camp Plaza de Mulas (http://www.aconcagua.com/english/information/i-sitios/weather1.htm)

The Weather and forecast in Aconcagua´s camp 3 (5.894 mts.) (http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Aconcagua.0to3mid.shtml)

The Weather and forecast in Aconcagua´summit ( 6.952 mts.) (http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Aconcagua.0to3top.shtml)

In the mountain the exposure to the whims of the atmosphere is maximized. Besides pathological problems derived from altitude and the cold, weather is usually the key factor to achieve or not the expedition's objectives. Although mountain meteorology is very complicated and difficult to forecast , we both carry recent reports and try to obtain our own data, that correctly interpreted, will allow us to forecast the weather and to design our tactics. For that reason, any serious expedition (and even more the commercial ones!) must have both a clear and scientific weather forecast technique and a flexible, easy to modify itinerary depending on forecast, without affecting high priority acclimatization tactics. Forecast procedure should not be excessively complicated, but limited to recognize and evaluate the indications of the local phenomena, that in the Aconcagua are reduced almost exclusively to storms coming from the Pacific cyclonic systems.

Storm in the Aconcagua

Amongst the different types of storms studied by meteorology, typical storms in the Aconcagua are generated by the arrival of low pressure systems called "vaguadas" that move eastwards f rom the Pacific Ocean. Meteorology usually predicts these systems by the passage of a warm front (valuable for forecast) that preceeds a cold one (the actual storm occurrence). But in the Aconcagua, given the high altitude and the predominantly radiative character of the temperature, the warm front passage is difficult to detect unless standardized meteorological procedures are performed, and these are far for the mountaineers to achieve. And in addition, the Andes mountain range dividing western marine and eastern continental climate, generates an orographic Fohen type (same as the Chinook) effect known regionally as Zonda. This process produces three events with forecasting utility: a "vaguada" that moves to the East and can be detected in remote stations of the Pacific Ocean, precipitations in Chile windwards of the Andes, and local alterations of barometric pressure and cloudiness.

Regional Forecasting

Weather forecast is classically based on four phenomena: cloudiness, barometric pressure, intensity of wind and wind direction. Wind data will be very affected in the Aconcagua by orography and differential exposure of the camp sites; our forecast will be based on both regional official information and local variations of pressure and their interpretation under observation of cloudiness. Regional official informations that usually preceeds a bad weather situation are, in occurrence order: a low pressure in the Chilean oceanic islands (Easter, 3500 km -2000 nmi- West of the coast and 800 km -450 nmi- North; and Juan Fernández or Robinson Crusoe, 700 km at West of the coast -400 nmi- and 100 km -60 nmi- South), and rain in Santiago. Unfortunately Chilean radio broadcast does not report technical data like pressure values, but present weather at the cities (good, sunny, storm, cloudy, rainy, etc.) and a brief forecast for the rest of the day or the next day. In the Aconcagua only Chilean broadcasts are listened to , mainly above the 5000 m -16,500'-. We must pay attention and register the following events for Santiago and the V Region:

Clear sky: low possibilities of bad weather in the Aconcagua. Dimmed sky: possibilities of bad weather in the Aconcagua. Raining: definitely bad weather in the Aconcagua, with snowfalls and winds. If a warm front arrival or proximity is announced, attention must be paid to a later cold front announcement. If a cold front from the Pacific arrival or proximity is announced, a high probability of storm in the Aconcagua is to be expected. A low pressure system formation or approach in Robinson Crusoe island (archipelago Juan Fernandez) announcement would be of great value to anticipate the development of the above mentioned phenomena, but this kind of data is not usually reported by broadcasting radio. Our expeditions obtain this information from our base in Mendoza through our friends of Robinson Crusoe island (where we take trekking groups every year) who give us updated reports on low pressure systems. Forecast for 3 days in Easter, Juan Fernández and Santiago is also obtained daily from the Internet throughhttp://www.usatoday.com/weather/basemaps/foreign/samerica/wfchile.htm selecting Easter Island Chile, Island Robinson Crusoe Chile and Santiago Chile, whose data is informed by phone to the Plaza de Mulas hotel. This is the tool we have to know whether a great scale regional phenomenon affecting the Aconcagua zone may happen.

Local Forecasting

Regional information might be insufficient since the mountain is able to generate its own climatic condition, with local phenomena that may not be forecasted at a greater scale. First of all, we can empirically observe typical cloudy phenomena, well known by guides and rangers.Cloudiness usually begins with small cumuli at the south (watching from Plaza de Mulas downwards the Horcones valley, on Plomo and Juncal range), or at the northwest (looking from Plaza de Mulas to the left of Cuerno), that grow in size every hour. Under a process of worsening weather, these clouds begin to appear between 2 and 4 pm, it is completely cloudy in the evening and usually it may become clear after sunset. First clouds appear earlier each day, and bad weather is installed when clouds appear between 10 am and 12. Lensed stratocumuli and hooked cirrus (claws) are another kind of clouds that foretells bad weather, but they generally indicate a Zonda phenomenon, normally forecasted through Santiago or Juan Fernandez info. A big lensed stratocumulus placed as a hat or "mushroom " on the summit is usually the confirmation that bad weather has arrived, although if that cloud appears at dusk and if there are no other indicators for bad weather, it might probably vanish at dawn.If a remarkable, growing accumulation of very sharpened or globulose white alto-cumuli exists, usually coming from the West, from the North and the Northeast on the zone of Tambillo mount, they can be seen from altitude camps or on summit ascent. Should this happen before 5 pm, it can cause local bad weather.

Registering our own data

Finally, you can give your expedition a professional touch by carefully processing and analyzing meteorological variables. In "Towards Horizon" expeditions barometric pressure and temperature figures are daily downloaded into a worksheet in our PC and then data versus time are traced to see the evolution in course during many days. After the first three days of registry, we will be able to apply Gachon's rules to interpret these data:

Pressure reduces: Slowly (1 to 2 hPa/day): bad weather coming, confirmed if, in addition, temperature rises slowly (1 to 2ºC/day, 2 to 4ºF/day) and/or sheepped sky (cirrocumulus) is observed. Abruptly (3 to 4 hPa/day): immediate and intense bad weather, confirmed if, in addition, temperature descends abruptly (3 to 4ºC/day, 5 to 7ºF/day). Oscillating: long bad weather.

Pressure grows: Slowly: good weather, confirmed if in addition temperature descends slowly and sky is clear or with medium and isolated cumulus. If increase starts from a normal pressure (between 599 and 601 hPa for Plaza de Mulas), good weather will last a period of time equivalent to the time pressure took in reaching its maximum value.Abruptly: temporary improvement, confirmed if in addition temperature descends abruptly; or unstable weather. Oscillating: improvement in the weather will be delayed.

Pressure remains stable: In a low value (below 599 hPa in Plaza de Mulas): unstable good weather. In an average or high value (600 hPa or more in Plaza de Mulas): weather will remain unchanged, confirmed if temperature is also stable. Pressure units equivalences arise from the definition of 1 normal atmosphere: 1013,23 hPa or mbar = 760 mmHg = 29,92 "HgSince pressure and temperature vary throughout the day, registered values must be comparable. Normally pressure increases slowly from sunrise to midnight (about 2 or 3 hPa throughout 18 hours) and diminishes again during the night (in 6 hours). Pressure is recorded every even hour and draw up two curves: one with daily maximum and another with daily minimum pressure . We have found that our forecasts become more reliable (no matter being favorable or unfavorable) the more uniform the daily pattern of variation is, when the maxima pressure registers are at 0 or 2 am and minima ones are at 6 or 8 am, and without other peaks during the day or the night. For the temperature we calculate the average between 6 pm of previous day and 8 am, since in high altitude temperature of the rest of the day is affected by cloudiness. Then data is processed during the morning, forecast is analyzed and tactical decisions are taken. Should you wish to calibrate the altimeter in the airport, runway level is 705 m asl (2,313 ft). In Mendoza city you can do it in the NE corner of Plaza San Martín, where a board in the floor indicates 748 m (2453 ft). In Puente del Inca, the platform of the old railway station is at 2719 m (8920 ft). For Plaza de Mulas we always use a constant value of 4260 m (13,976 ft) that we have determined by doing fast flights in helicopter with stable weather from Puente del Inca. Altimeter calibration is only a temporary and ephemeral change of scale, and it does not have any relation with the calibration of the barometer. We continue with the forecasting process from altitude camps using a conversion program that allows to translate pressure data P measured in altitude to Plaza de Mulas values P0, and then continuing the registry by using calculated P0 values. The formula that allows to make this conversion is the following:P0 = P [(a - Z0)/(a - Z)]bwhere a = 44 365.5723 m, b = 5.256, Z the altitude of the point of measurement in meters, Z0 that of reference level in meters, P and P0 the corresponding pressures in any unit (both the same). In order to use altitudes in feet a = 145 556.3396 ft. Replacing values for the altitudes of the habitual camp places, we can express P0 = P k, where the values of factor k are the following:

Sites Z (ft) k

Confluencia 10,820 0.883

Plaza de Mulas 13,980 1.000

Plaza Canadá 16,110 1.090

Cambio de Pendiente 17,060 1.133

Nido de Cóndores 17,650 1.161

Berlín 18,960 1.225

Permits

Permits 09/09/05 information gathered from Rudy Parras web site To enter ACONCAGUA PROVINCIAL PARK, you have obtain a permit.You have to fill out the forms personally. Permits are sold EXCLUSIVELY at SUBSECRETARÍA DE TURISMO på San Martín 1143. Close to Plaza Independencia. Most cabs know where this is.

When you apply for your permit in Mendoza you will get a ´banking slip´ from the park office, then go to a nearby "Locatario" to pay your permit fee. Then you will return to the park office and get your ´climbing permit´.The whole process takes one or two hours now, more with high season line ups.

Government site for fee structure (in Spanish) http://www.aconcagua.mendoza.gov.ar/tarifas.htm

HIGH SEASON: From 15th December of year 2008 to 31st January 2009, a permit costs: Climbing USD$ 500-20 days Long Trekking USD$ 110 -7 days Short Trekking USD$ 60-3 days

MEDIUM SEASON: From 01-Dec to 14-Dec, 2008, and from 01-Feb to 20-Feb, 2009 a permit costs: Climbing USD$ 330-20 days Long Trekking USD$ 80-7 days Short Trekking USD$ 50-3 days

LOW SEASON: From November 15th to November 30th 2008 and from February 21st to March 15th 2009 Climbing USD$ 170-20 days Long Trekking USD$ 80-7 days Short Trekking USD$ 50-3 days

Validity of the permits (as from the date of access to the Park) Validity of the permits Climbing 20 days. Long Trekking 7 days Short Trekking 3 days. Proceeds from the duties are alloted (supposed to be) to the maintenance and protection of the ACONCAGUA PROVINCIAL PARK.

Off –season (from March 16 to November 14) access to the Aconcagua Park is no longer free. A permit must be purchased in Mendoza or at the Park Rangers’ Shelter in Horcones Valley. The price of admittance is the price charged during the high season even if the rescuing service is not provided. Neither doctors nor park rangers are available during this period. However, for a “special” price, there is an exception between March 16 and April 1st., of each season. To access the Aconcagua Park within these periods, for trekkings or to climb, we suggest contacting the Aconcagua Park’s authorities. There are restrictions regarding the access of MINORS to the Park: they will have to exhibit pertinent authorization signed by both parents and certified by Public Notary or their respective Consulate or Embassy. For further information, please, contact the RENOVABLE NATURAL RESOURCES BUREAU (Dirección de Recursos Naturales Renovables) located in General San Martín Park, phone + 54 261 425 5090 or + 54 261 425 7065 (from 08:00 AM to 01:00 PM) e mail: aconcagua@mendoza.gov.com.ar

CLIMBING AND TREKKINGS PERMITS The permits must be given in person to each visitor and only in Mendoza. Trekking and tourism agencies are not authorized anymore to get the climbing permits for visitors as it was in the past. Each climber must come in person to Mendoza city to get it. The permits can not be bought either at Puente de Inca or Punta de Vacas. The control of permisses is done in laguna Horcones (normal and south face), the same as in the Rio Vacas (Polish and Polish traverse routes) by the park-rangers. Anywhere inside the park, the permit or the receipt may be required to be shown.

(Passport or Identity Card required). Neither medical certificate or evidences of insurance are necessary.Payment may be either in Argentine Pesos or in U.S. Dollars. No credits cards or checks are accepted. This should not take to long as the staff are normally pretty used to their jobs and are usually pleasent.

There now are doctors at the two main base camps. (Plaza Argentina and Plaza des Mules) You will after seeing the Rangers have to check in with the base camp doctor and will get an examination which will determine whether you are fit to go higher. This is manditory now and a good idea. Permits are valid from the date of entry to the Park

Argentine citizens are entitled to a 50% discount on the above prices.

Permit / garbage information from: Corax Date: Feb 05, 2005 11:26 PMThe following is to be found on the back of your climbing permit:

You will have to pay a U$S 100 fine if you: * Do not use the baths provided by the park. * Throw garbage along the park, leave or do not use the numbered plastic bags provided by the park. * Pollute rivers, streams or waterfalls. * Enter either with bicycles or pets. * Damage wildlife, plants and natural, cultural or archeological features which are protected by the park regulations.

You will have to pay a U$S 200 fine if you: * Throw garbage, forget or loose the numbered bags in the high camps or during your expedition. * Gather or burn wood in the park. * Carve insriptions in the stones.

You will have to pay the equivalent of a 2nd permit or an ascent permit if you: * Go beyond the limits of the length if the stay allowed in the permit or go higher than 4300 mts with short trekking (3 days), long trekking (7 days).

Note: * Maximum stay is 20 days with ascent permit. * Horcones ranger station open daily from 8 A.M. - 6 P.M. * For your safety always check out.

On matters of poop n scoop When arriving in Plaza de Mulas and Plaza Argentina when you check in the Ranger will register you and hand over a numbered "shit-bag". This bag will be your companion all the time on the higher reaches of Aconcagua and if you loose it you have to pay a $200 fine. You're supposed to use the bag as the only alternative for a toilet and if you're doing your business in nature and are spotted by the guards there is a $100 fine. Be warned, the plastic of the bag is not that thick and is not to be trusted. Double or triple pack it in order to avoid quite disgusting leakage in your back pack. The best thing is to bring a number of smaller bags with you and bag it each time. Cache these smaller bags which should freeze overnight. You can then double bag these in the numbered bag for safer transportation to base camp. Your mule provider is in charge of making sure you have brought this and your numbered garbage bag down to base camp. If you lose it he won't sign your permit. If he does then he becomes responsible.

There are toilets at Pampa Lena (flush!), Casa Piedra and Plaza Argentina. Conflencia and Plaza des Mulas for the normal route. So it is in the upper camps where you will have to collect your waste.

If not part of an organized expedition, you have to "be contracted to a toilet service" at BC. Asking around a bit and some big organizers will tell you the price is US$100, some smaller US$5/day or US$10 for the whole stay. If you used the toilet services between 20:00 and 08:00 you may not have to pay anything in some of the places. For those

on an extremely low budget an alternative is to camp at the restaurant and use the toilets there. You can always use the restaurants toilet if you are giving them some business.

Climbing Aconcagua on a Budget (http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/527619/climbing_aconcagua_on_a_budget.html?cat=16)

Whether it is for the joy of climbing the mountain itself, or for the statistic alone, Argentina's Cerro Aconcagua has occupied a position of prominence on many a climber's wish-list. Known to many as "The Stone Sentinel", this colossal mound of ice and scree soars to 6,962 meters above sea-level. It sounds even better when measured in feet: there are 22,841 of them, which makes Aconcagua the highest point in all of South America. It's big; so big, that if the Himalayas were to somehow crumble down into nothing, the new "highest point on earth" would be, you guessed it, Cerro Aconcagua.

Statistics aside, climbing Aconcagua is simply a great adventure. Lenticulars, penitentes, the infamous "viento blanco"... there's a lot to keep a climber engaged. The journey is easy enough to keep you encouraged, yet challenging enough to be a major notch in your belt.

For whatever reason one finds themselves attracted to Aconcagua, something that isn't attractive is the high cost of climbing it with one of the various commercial operators that lay siege to the mount each year. A quick browse of the Internet will reveal tour costs of thousands of dollars. If you're made of money, those prices are probably good value. Your purchase will most likely ensure a comfortable base-camp, uncomplaining mules to haul your kit, and good food on demand. Your funds will also buy you one or more bilingual guides, who will all but carry you to Aconcagua's apex for those glorious few minutes of victory.

Yes, if you can afford it, climbing Aconcagua with a commercial guide will give you a fine chance of success. But if you're a reasonably competent climber & traveler, have a buddy or two who are also up to the challenge, and you'd rather save some dough for future conquests, then going it alone is an excellent option. Here are my tips, based on a successful ascent made in January 2007, which will help you save money, and get to the top also!

Firstly, get a copy of R.J Secor's "Aconcagua: A Climbing Guide". The maps and route descriptions are very helpful. However, taking along a good topographical map is critical, and Secor's guide doesn't have one.

Topographical maps can be found on the streets of Mendoza in the various map stores & climbing outfitters you'll come across.

Try to spend some time at altitude before you begin your expedition, and train well! If you've already been acclimatizing somewhere else, you won't need to spend weeks in base-camp squandering your precious supplies while your body gets used to the altitude.

Travel to Mendoza, Argentina cheaply. If you've got the time, take the bus from your point of entry in Argentina. For example, if you arrive in Buenos Aires, you'll probably save a lot of money if you take the bus to Mendoza, rather than fly. Bus services are excellent, and you'll even get to brush up on your Spanish with some dubbed movies.

If you can help it, don't buy climbing equipment in Mendoza. The prices are inflated, and there isn't a huge selection for you to choose from anyway.

Make it your determination to view the purchase of your climbing permit (at the Direccion de Bosques y Parques Provinciales in downtown Mendoza) as your major expense from here on out!

Inquire with the local guides in Mendoza for transport to and/or from the mountain. Sometimes, they'll let you travel with their organized group to the park entrance, for a small fee. It may save you some time and bother. Otherwise, there are regular buses that run between the main bus terminal in Mendoza, and Puente del Inca.

In my opinion, this final point is perhaps the most important: Take care when selecting the food for your expedition. Food can make or break and expedition. Choose nutritious, lightweight, tasty food. Choosing food you enjoy does a lot for your psychology. Part of what makes mountaineering potentially so miserable, is forcing yourself to eat unpalatable food where the high altitude has already taken away your appetite. If you enjoy eating it, you'll be happier, and you'll probably eat more - giving you good reserves of the energy you'll be burning so fast during the day. Consider pre-cooking some favorite meals yourself and then dehydrating them. They'll pack small, and you'll only have to rehydrate and heat them while on the mountain - saving you in two ways: a) You'll use less fuel for your stove since you won't need to cook anything, just heat it; and b) You probably won't have to hire expensive mules or mule-drivers, since you'll now be able to carry less fuel, and your food will be small and light enough for you to carry on your back.

With some good planning, you should be able to stage a successful campaign on Aconcagua for only a few hundred dollars, the majority of your land expense being the climbing permit.

It's true, there really is something very special about being on top; stabbing at that rarefied air with your ice-ax; the "slain beast" subjected to your crampon-clad boot. It's a sweet feeling no matter how you got there. But without a doubt, overcoming that 'mountain of challenge' through an expedition supplied by your own rucksack brings a whole new level of satisfaction. The adventure was directed by you, and the only profits made were your own fond memories.

Hopefully you'll still have enough 'dinero' for your next adventure, but certainly you'll have enough for that fat steak and glass of red you promised yourself in Mendoza.

(http://www.destination360.com/south-america/argentina/aconcagua)

Mount Aconcagua is the place for all your mountaineering fantasies of summiting a giant mountain can become reality. Mount Aconcagua will test your abilities as a climber, challenge your character and make you into a better person and climber. The sights you will see are beyond the images in your dreams, and the feeling you will achieve when the top is reached will be pure ecstasy. The cuts or the bruises will not matter anymore as you breath a sign of relief and rejoice about what you have just achieved.

Mount Aconcagua stands out among the mountain range and it is said that primitive people before us named it "Ackon Cahuak", which means the Stone Sentinel. It was noticed long before our time and respected. It is wise to go with an Aconcagua guide to insure your safety. This mountain stands a towering 22, 840 feet, and it is the tallest in the Americas. It is 4,000 feet higher than any of the neighboring mountains in the Andes.

Climbing Aconcagua is the type of climbing to prepare for future Himalayan climbs. Training needs to be at the forefront when considering this epic climb. For a successful and enjoyable trip, it is wise to keep in mind that training for three months or more is necessary for climbing Aconcagua.

Keep in mind when training that the official climbing season is from November 15 to March 31. If you go early, then your mind can rest during the holidays and eat as much turkey as you want. But the prices are also more expensive. The high season climbing season ranges from one thousand dollars during the high season to three hundred and fifty dollars during the low season. So if budget were an obstacle, then it would be advantageous for climbing Aconcagua during the low season.

There are many Aconcagua guides that make Aconcagua their home, and would be thrilled to take you on a trip. An Aconcagua guide's first order of business is to insure safety for all of their guests. Here are some names of companies: Inka Expeditions, Patagonic Adventures, Aconcagua Expeditions

and Alpine Ascents International. They along with some mules will take you to several pits stops along the way as a way to rest and to become acclimated to the altitude. One of these destinations is Plaza de Mulas, which has drinking water and room to set up camp. It is about 14,000 feet high. Another place to see along the way is Horcones Superior, which is unique place to visit and ice climb.

This is an adventurous and challenging climb, but you will return home with one of the most incredible experiences of your life, a sense of great accomplishment and memories you will never forget. At first, you will breathe a sigh of relief that you are home, but then you will be telling all your envious friends about your trip. The main thing to remember is to be prepared and be safe. After that the most important thing is to take pictures!

Hostels in Mendoza/Puente del Incahttp://www.hostels.com/mendoza/argentinahttp://www.milhousehostel.com/english/location.htmlhttp://www.hostelbookers.com/hostels/argentina/mendoza/4720/http://realtravel.com/h-215602-mendoza_hotel-hostel_internacional_penitenteshttp://hotels.lonelyplanet.com/?lpaffil=lptt-hhpod

For planning a self-guided expedition – Knowledge of Spanish is a must.