PHOTOPROTECTIONPHOTOPROTECTIONBasicsBasics
Harald Maier, M.D.Harald Maier, M.D.Professor of Professor of DermatologyDermatology
Div. Special and Div. Special and EnvironmentalEnvironmental DermatologyDermatologyDeptDept. . DermatologyDermatology
MedicalMedical University of University of ViennaVienna
COST 726 Training School October 6th, - 10th, 2008, Vienna
WARUM UV – SCHUTZ ?Sonnenverhalten – Gestern & Heute
Frankreich um 1890Florida 1990
Osttirol 1920 Zillertal 2001
ViennaVienna TanningTanning Salon Salon SurveySurveyHistoricalHistorical PerspectivesPerspectives of of IntendedIntended TanningTanning (1)(1)
1855 worldwide 1st „Sonnenbadeanstalt“ by Arnold Rikkli (1823-1906) in Veldes1896 Finsen-lamp by Niels Ryberg Finsen (1860-1904)1904 „Quartzglass-mercury-lamp“ by Dr.Küch / Haereus-Hanau („Hanauer Höhensonne)WW I acceleration of reconvalescence of soldiers w.i.a. by artificial UVR1920-30ies tan as part of a politically motivated „Körperkult“ in Germany1930ies Coco Chanel (Paris) returns with a „shocking tan“ from a vaccation1940ies Helena Rubinstein (NY) introduces artificial tanning in her „Five-Days-Wonder-School“Since 1950ies tanned skin inevitable for advertising in modern and post-modern Western World societies
Tavenrath 2000
ViennaVienna TanningTanning Salon Salon SurveySurveyHistoricalHistorical PerspectivesPerspectives (2)(2)
Death Sea solarium, 2000 EC 2008 Beauty salon Paris 1930ies
Künstliche Höhensonne, Hanau 1911Luftbad 1900Luftbad 1900
Light chamberby Dr. Kellog, Michigan around1900
I´m a tanning freakand feel pretty well in my skin !
„KROCHER“Adolescent sub-culturePhysical fitnessSpecial outfit„Addicted“ to tanning salons / self-tanning lotions, beautyspots („melanoma“)Special language
Representative annual minimal erythemal doses (MEDs) for various exposure scenarios in northern Europeans
(Diffey, 1987, 1993)
Scenario Annual MEDsOutdoor worker 270
Indoor worker (including weekend exposure) 90
Sunbathing holiday in Mediterranean area for 2 week period in summer
50 - 100
UVA sunbed (low pressure fluorescent lamps, 30X30 minute sessions*)
20
*Recommended maximum number of sessions per year (IRPA/INIRC, 1991) with estimated exposure of 0.7 MED per session(Diffey, 1987)
SONNENSCHUTZ BEI BERUFLICHER UV-EXPOSITIONUVUV--Risikoprofil bei WerktRisikoprofil bei Werktäätigentigen
Innenarbeiter – passive Freizeitgestaltung
Außenarbeiter – passiv Freizeitgestaltung
Innenarbeiter – aktive Freizeitgestaltung
Außenarbeiter – aktive Freizeitgestaltung
Knuschke et al. 2007
Photostability – A Novel Key Safety Parameter
PHOTOPROTECTION –
HIGH - NEED
Photostability – A Novel Key Safety Parameter
(Outdoor) work
Outdoor leisure activities
Children
PHOTOPROTECTION – EVERYDAY SITUATIONS
INTRINSISCHE PHOTOPROTEKTION„Lichtschwiele“
PigmentierungIPD UVADPD UVADPD UVB
Antioxidant DefenseEnzyme (z.B, SOD, Katalase, Peroxidase)MetalloproteineStress-ProteineTocopherol, Ascorbinsre., Glutathion, Bilirubin
EnzymatischeDNA-Reparatur-mechanismen
Abb. 3-1. aus: Harber & Bickers. Photosensitivity diseases. Principles of diagnosis and treatment, 1981
EXTRINSISCHE PHOTOPROTEKTIONPrinzipien
1 - UV-Vermeidung (UV-Verhalten, Schatten, Kleidung, Hut, Sonnenbrille)
2 - Sonnenschutzmittel i. e.S.
3 - Antioxidantien
4 - Reparaturenzyme („Enhanced photorepair“)
12
3
4
Abb. 3-1. aus: Harber & Bickers. Photosensitivity diseases. Principles of diagnosis and treatment, 1981
PRINCIPLES OF EXTRINSIC PHOTOPROTECTION
• UVR avoidance
• Antioxidant defence
• Enhanced photorepair
……and now a minutebreeze of butyl methoxy-
dibenzoylmethane……
…a sunscreen…….indeed,…a workof art……..
Photostability – A Novel Key Safety ParameterTopical Sunscreens – Principle Composition
UV-FILTERS
Chemical filters
Physical filters
VEHICLE
Water : Oil
PARA-SUBSTANCES
Stabilizers
Emulsifiers
Antioxidants
Perfumes
etc.
PHOTOPROTEKTIONSonnenschutzmittel im engeren
Sinne = topischer Sonnenschutz
organic filter inorganic filter
Stoffgruppe EU-Nr.
Stoff INCI Handelsname Absorptionsspektrum Max Abs Höchstmenge (g/100g Vehikel)
Medium i d Filter instabil ist
Ext.Koeff.
A1 4-Aminobenzoesäure PABA UVB250-320
288 5
B5 2-Ethylhexyl-4-dimethylaminobenzoat(4-Dimethylaminobenzo-2-ethylhexylester) Padimate-O
Octyl Dimethyl PABA EscalolEusolex
UVB 8 polar
B2 Ethoxylierter 4-Aminobenzoesäureethylester Ethyl PABA UVB 10
B25 3-(4´-Methyl-benzyliden) D,L-campher 3-(4´Methylbenzyliden)DL-Camphor
Eusolex 6300 UVB280-315
300 6
B26 3-Benzyliden-bornan-2-on (3-Benzyliden-D,L-campher 3-Benzyliden Camphor Ultren 9K UVB 6
A7 3,3´-(1-4-Phenylenmethylen)bis-(7,7´-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2,2,1]heptan-1-methansulfonsäure und Salze
Terephthalylidene DicamphorSulfonic Acid
Mexoryl SX UVA 10
A9 Alpha-(2-0xoborn-3-yliden)-toluen-4-sulfonsäure und Salze
Benzyliden Camphor SulfonicAcid
UVB 6
B13 Ethylhexyl-4-methoxy-cinnamat (4-Methoxy-zimtsäure-2-ethyl-hexylester)
Octyl Methoxycinnamat Parsol MCXNeoHelipan AV
UVB290-320
307-310 10 polar
B12 4-Methoxy-zimtsäure-iso-amylester (Mischung von Isomeren)
Isoamyl-p-Methoxycinnamat Neo-HeliopanE1000
UVB 10
A4 Oxybenzon (2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenon Benzophenon-3 Eusolex 4360Escalol 567Uvinul M 40
UVAB270-350
287-290 10 apolar
B17 2-Hydroxy-4-Methoxy-benzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und Na-Salz(Sulsibenzon)
Benzophenon-/Benzophenon -5 UVB apolar
A3 3,3,5-Trimethyl-cyclohexyl-2-salizylsäureester Homosalate UVB295-315
306 10
B29 4-Isopropylbenzyl-salicylyt Isipropylbenzyl Siliylate UVB 4
B6 Salizylsäure-2-ethylhexylester Octylsalicylate UVB280-320
300 5
A11 N- {(2 und3)-(2-Oxoborn-3 yliden)-methyl]benzyl}acrylamid-Polymer
- Mexoryl SW UVB 6
A6 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure(Salze) Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure Eusolex 232Novantisol
UVB290-320
302 8
B32 2,4,6-Trianilin-p-(carbo-2´-ethyl-hexyl-1´-oxi)-1,3,5-triazin
Octyl Triazone Uvinul T150 UVB 5
A8 1-(4-tert-Butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propan-1-3-dion (Avobenzone)
Butyl Methoxyfibenzoylmethane Parsol 1789Eusolex 920
UVA 5
A2 N,N,N-Trimethyl-4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-anilinium-methylsulfat
Camphor BenzalkoniumMethosulfate
UVB 6
A10 2-Cyano-3,3´-diphenyl-2-acrylsäure,2-Ethylhexylester Octocrylene Uvinul N539 UVAB 10
Andere
Salizylate
Benzophenone
Zimtsäure Derivate
CampherDerivate
PABA/Derivate
TOPISCHER SONNENSCHUTZUV -Filter
TOPISCHER SONNENSCHUTZWas kann mit Organischen Filtern („Absorber“) so alles passieren?
1 - Photofragmentation
2 - Photoisomerisation
3 - Direkte Reaktion
4 - Energietransfer
Nach Martincigh, Allen & Allen.In: Gasparro Springer Vlg. 1999
TOPISCHER SONNENSCHUTZPhysikalische UV-Filter
• Mikronisiertes ZnO• Mikronisiertes TiO2
Photostability – A Novel Key Safety ParameterSunscreens – Basic Requirements
• EFFECTIVE
• SAFE
• COSMETICALLY ACCEPTABLE
• REASONABLE PRICE
Photostability – A Novel Key Safety ParameterSunscreen Effectivity & Savety in
Photobiologic Terms
• BROAD SPECTRUM PROTECTION
(UVB & UVA)
• HIGH PROTECTION FACTOR
(UVB:UVA-BALANCE)
• PHOTOSTABILITY
UV-SCHUTZ IST WICHTIG !
320156 (gelb)320350 (weiß)
POLYPODIUM LEUCOTOMOS
• Genus POLYPODICEAE • Polygrammoid ferns• Rainforest Honduras• Calagualine• „Metabolic effects of
calagualine, an antitumoralsaponine of P. leucotomos.“
Horvath A et al. Nature 1967
TOPISCHER SONNENSCHUTZAktuelle Anwendungspraxis
Sonnenschutzmittel werden bereitwilligangewendetSonnenschutzmittel verleiten zum SonnenbadenSonnenschutzmittel als „Goldstandard“angesehenSonnenschutzmittel werden zu dünnaufgetragenEs werden nicht alle Areale bedeckt Die internationalen Empfehlungen über UV protektive Maßnahmen enthalten keinen Hinweis auf photoprotektive Lippenstifte Nur 61% der Anwender tragen Sonnenschutzmittel mehrmalsauf
Sunprotection starts in yourhead!
• Correct ranking of UVR protectivemeasures
• Reasonable sun-behaviour and correctself-assessment
• Sunscreens not first-linephotoprotective measures
Photostability – A Novel Key Safety ParameterPhotoprotection as a Comprehensive
Strategy• Behavior• Self-assessment of UV-sensitivity• Shadow• Textile sunprotection• Sunglasses• Topical sunscreens• (Systemic photoprotection)
Photostability – A Novel Key Safety ParameterCases for (Topical) Sunscreens
• Outdoor occupational activities
• Outdoor leisure activities
• Skin areas which cannot be protected by
other photoprotective measurements
SONNENSCHUTZ BEI BERUFLICHER UV-EXPOSITIONCorrectCorrect useuse of of topicaltopical sunscreenssunscreens
Sunscreens not first-line photoprotection, butadditionally to other measuresAll areas which are regularely sun exposed(face, hands)Right choiceCorrect useEven application in recommended areathicknessDon´t forget lips, ears, neck!Regular reapplicationStart with sunscreen with higher SPF
Tanned is beautiful !
30 years after...
Is tanned (still) beautiful?
Thankyou for
yourattention !