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Few experiences compare with silently driftingover a herd of grazing elephants in the MasaiMara or enjoying a post-flight champagnebreakfast in the heart of the Sossusvlei dunes.Ballooning is a perfect addition to ahoneymoon or a memorable way to mark an

anniversary or birthday. If you do not have aspecial occasion to celebrate, we suggest youinvent one because this is something no-oneshould miss.

A balloon safari adds a totally differentdimension to your game viewing. Hoveringsilently over the savannah, you can observe theanimals whilst they remain completelyoblivious to your presence. You can look downon giraffe browsing in the trees below, get anoverview of whole herds of herbivores and takein the entire panorama of the landscape.

Balloon flights normally take off at sunrise,when the air currents are still cool. You arriveat the launch site before dawn and watch theballoon being inflated. Once airborne, theballoon drifts across the landscape with theprevailing wind. The pilot controls the altitudeby adjusting the gas burner to regulate the flowof hot air into the balloon. Flights usually lastan hour and are often followed by achampagne breakfast at the landing site. If the

wind obliges, your pilot will aim to use thecurrents to land close to your breakfast table.The basket can hold up to 16 passengers. Thenature of the activity means that ballooning isnot cheap. A flight costs from 245 dependingon location.

A hot-air balloon safari over the rolling plainsof the Masai Mara is simply spectacular.Between July and September, you get anoverview of the vast herds of wildebeest andother plains game and may spy a cheetahor lion preparing to ambush its prey.

For much of the year, the vast Busanga Plainsin Kafue National Park are submerged belowseasonal flood waters. In May, the waters subsideto reveal a delicate patchwork of green andbrown vegetation. A balloon flight is a splendid

way to enjoy this varied landscape and its herdsof red lechwe, puku, roan and wildebeest.

Dawn flights from Sossusvlei allow you towatch ever-changing colours as the sun risesover the enormous red sand dunes, and tosavour this magnificent landscape in peaceand serenity.

Complement a safari in the Kruger area with aballoon flight from Hazyview and a birds eyeview of the Sabie River Valley. On the GardenRoute you may wish to overnight inOudtshoorn and take a balloon trip over theKlein Karoo and Swartberg mountains.

HOT-AIRBALLOONING

30A-Z OF AFRICA

KENYA

ZAMBIA

NAMIBIA

SOUTH AFRICA

left

Ballooning over

Sossusvlei

above right

Ballooning over

Masi Mara

opposite

Ballooning over

Masai Mara

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East of the African mainland, the IndianOcean is scattered with tropical islands andarchipelagos. Some of the most idyllic placesto stay are found on these wondrous, far-flungislands where, far from the cares of daily life,you can savour being a castaway often from

the lap of luxury.

Here we offer a few of our favourite islands,some small enough for you to walk round, with

just one lodge and often exclusive to guests. Formore inspiration, see Beaches and Quirimbasor contact us to discuss your wishes.

Madagascar is the worlds fourth largest island.Offshore lie a number of islands for a fabulousand unusual island holiday. Nosy Tsarabanjinais the perfect tropical island, with fine white

sand, sparkling blue waters, healthy coral, arich marine life and just one island lodge,CONSTANCE LODGE TSARABANJINA.If you want a private castaway experience,to stroll along deserted beaches and swim orsnorkel in the coves of islands still beyond thereach of tourism, ask us about cruisingamongst the Radama Islands, southwest ofNosy Be, or in the Mitsio Archipelago, to thenortheast its surprisingly affordable.

Seychelles comprises 115 islands, with some of

the worlds finest island lodges. NORTHISLAND offers barefoot luxury, the peace ofmind of everything being included (evendiving and half-day fishing charters) and thechance to contribute to a flagship conservationproject just by enjoying yourself ! In the OuterIslands, DESROCHES is a private islandencircled by 14km of sandy beach and coralreefs abounding with colourful marine life.Each suite or villa has its own bikes forexploring this flat coralline island. If you wanta more low-key private island holiday, BIRDISLAND LODGE has simple, comfortable

rooms, soft white sand beaches protected by abarrier reef, superb fishing, marine turtles andGiant land tortoises, as well as the fantasticnumber of birds for which the island is named.

Among the islands lying off Africas east coast,THE FUNZI KEYS is an exclusive retreat in thesouth of Kenya and a lovely place to relax afteryour safari. In the north, the Lamu Archipelago

was largely forgotten by time youll see boatsand donkeys instead of cars. Sheltered by sanddunes, at the far end of the 12km long Shela

beach, KIZINGO is an intimate beach lodgewith strong links to the local village, warmhospitality and very good food.

To the northeast of Zanzibar, Pemba Island islargely undeveloped and devoted to raising thecloves for which the spice islands are renowned.On a wild beach of soft white sand on a remotepeninsula, FUNDU LAGOON is stylish andsimply heavenly. It has a strong relationship withthe nearby village, an exemplary dive centre anda hilltop pool with magical views over the lagoonto the rolling hills of Pemba.

MADAGASCAR

SEYCHELLES

EAST AFRICA

ISLANDS

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Post World Cup, this

modern yet distinctively

African city has emerged as

a vibrant destination with

plenty to offer the traveller.

The epicentre of the enormously successful2010 football World Cup, Johannesburg hascast off its former, mainly negative press, andhas undergone a renaissance to rival that of anyother city in the world with an ever-growingnumber of museums and galleries, shoppingmalls and craft markets, bars and restaurants.

Once perceived as somewhere to fly in and flyon, Johannesburg is a rewarding stopover fora night or two and increasingly a destinationin its own right. The city has a distinctlycosmopolitan African flavour, and is more

a celebration of post-apartheid society thanCape Town, which still largely feels likea European city.

Joburg is also the custodian of the history ofapartheid, and especially of the long years ofopposition. We highly recommend a visit tothe cutting-edge Apartheid Museum, as well asto the exceptional Liliesleaf Farm in the suburbof Rivonia, once the clandestine headquartersof the African National Congress (ANC)smilitary wing and the site of the 1963 police

raid in which many senior ANC leaders werearrested. The farm has been converted into aninteractive museum which tells the story of thestruggle for freedom in the Fifties and Sixties.The quantity of material will keep a realenthusiast happy for an entire day; one cannotfail to be impressed by the dedication of those

who have brought Liliesleaf back to life, as wellas by the fruits of their labour.

Soweto is the spiritual home of the anti-apartheid struggle and a half-day tour of this

remarkable township includes the HectorPietersen Museum (commemorating the 1976student uprising), the Kliptown Memorial andRegina Mundi Church in Orlando West, animportant gathering point during the struggle,followed by lunch in one of Sowetos eateries.For those who wish to experience more oftownship life, we can offer overnight stays intownship B&Bs.

If you are interested in prehistory, more thana thousand hominid fossils, spanning over a

million years of human evolution, have beendiscovered at the Cradle of Humankind atMaropeng, about an hour from Joburg.The award-winning, interactive visitorscentre displays some of the original fossilfinds and presents the latest thinking abouthuman evolution.

Johannesburgs northern suburbs, Sandton aRosebank, offer some of the best shopping in

Africa and several luxurious hotels. Sandton centred around a huge shopping mall, where

Rosebank is more open-air and particularlynoted for its craft markets and cafes. Melrose

Arch is a recent development of hip cafes,celebrated restaurants and trendy nightspots.Nearby, in the leafy suburb of Melrose, theboutique PEECH HOTEL is a tranquil retreatproviding stylish accommodation withimpressive eco-credentials.

LILIESLEAF

CRADLE OF MANKIND

SANDTON & ROSEBANK

SOWETO

JOHANNESBURGoppositeBird Islandtop

Hector Pieterson

memorial,Soweto

bottom left

Jazz musicians

bottom right

Sandton

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South Africas Kruger National Park

contains an enormous area, the size

of Wales, bordered by Mozambique

in the east and Zimbabwe in the

north. It was designated a national

park by South African president PaulKruger in 1898 to limit the cattle

ranching that was encroaching on

the area.Today, the Park is home to

nearly 150 different species of

mammal, including all of the Big Five

lion, leopard,rhino,elephant and

buffalo and more than 500 species

of bird.

The unique feature of the Park is the

network of high-quality roads and

rest camps, which make it a perfect

destination for a self-drive safari.

Whereas at game lodges a driver

and tracker take you on gamedrives, here you are in control,

choosing your own routes and

stopping where you fancy. With

no-one to find the game for you, you

(and your travelling companions)

become the trackers children

quickly become remarkably skilled

at spotting wildlife.

KRUGER

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Different vegetation zones make for variedgame viewing as you drive through the park.Rest camps are well-equipped with shopsand restaurants some have pools, an ATMand internet caf and are surprisinglyinexpensive. Combined with low park fees,Kruger provides the most affordablehigh-quality game viewing in Africa.

Several private and public game reservessurround the Park. Together, they makeup the Greater Kruger Park Conservancy:

three million hectares of land where gamecan freely wander.

Sabi Sands and Timbavati are the largest andbest-known. These reserves were formed bythe consolidation of many privately-ownedranches and reserves and today contain some

wonderful private lodges.

The Sabi Sand Wildlife Reserve is a massivearea of private land on the west side of Kruger.There is no border fence, so animals roam freelybetween the park and the reserve. Within theSabi Sands are famous luxury safari lodges

includingSINGITA, LONDOLOZI and MALAMALA. The reserve is exceptionally good forlion and leopard sightings. One advantage ofstaying in a private reserve is that you can dooff-road game viewing, tracking predatorsthrough the bush for those elusive, close-upviews of hunting cats. The lodges offer dawnand dusk game drives, usually of about threehours duration, plus an optional game walkand visit to a local village. The late afternoondrive quickly becomes a night drive after abush break for sundowners. Meals are included

in the price, as are most alcoholic andnon-alcoholic drinks.

At the top end, Singitas EBONY LODGEand BOULDERS LODGE offer stylishaccommodation in an exclusive area of thegame-rich Sabi Sands. These Relais & Chateauxlodges offer unrivalled hospitality and facilities,including a luxurious spa, fully-equippedgymnasium, well-stocked library, gourmetcuisine and one of South Africas best winecellars. The suites are spacious and opulent,

with vast decks overlooking the Sand River andindividual pools. Ebony Lodge has a traditionalcolonial style; Boulders is contemporary, its

suites constructed around basalt outcrops.CHITWA CHITWAis a family-ownedand run five-star safari lodge in the unspoilenortheastern Sabi Sands. Set around the larglake in the reserve a magnet for thirstyanimals Chitwa Chitwa provides almostnon-stop game viewing. The head chef comfrom Singita and meals are marvellous.

VUYATELA, also in the northern Sabi Sandsis an intimate luxury camp of just eight suiteach with a private lounge, deck and plunge

pool. You can expect a warm welcome,interesting guides, great game viewing in anexclusive 7000-hectare area, good food and friendly, informal atmosphere. Vuyatela cateas well for honeymooners as for families.

At NOTTENS BUSH CAMP, in the south othe reserve, the emphasis is on the simplicityof life in the bush. It is a small, traditionaltented camp, run by the Notten family. Lit oil lamps there is no electricity the campsuccessfully recreates the romance of the

African bush. Very experienced guides provifirst-class game viewing.

SABI SANDS

opposite

Chitwa Chitwa Lodge,

Sabi Sands

below left

Vuyatela Lodge,

Sabi Sands

below right

Zebra in Kruger NP

bottom

Blyde River Canyon

A-Z OF AFRICA

SELF-DRIVE SAFARI HOLIDAYTo the west of Kruger, the Lowveldprovides some of South Africas mostspectacular scenery: Blyde River Canyon,Gods Window, Bourkes Luck Potholes andmany wonderful escarpments, waterfalls

and rock formations. Begin your holidaywith two or three days here there aresome super places to stay around Hazyview before moving on to a Sabi Sands gamelodge for three nights. After that, try yourluck at game spotting for a day or two inKruger Park, before motoring throughSwaziland into KwaZulu Natal (see page64) where you can take your pick from awide range of activities, including walkingin the Drakensberg, visiting the Battlefieldsdiving, whale watching or simplysunbathing beside the Indian Ocean.From 1895 including car hire.

BUSH AND BEACH FLY-IN

Combine a week in the Kruger area,staying in the Lowveld and in Sabi Sands,with a week on one of Mozambiquestropical islands. A one-hour flight connectsKruger to the Bazaruto Archipelago (seepage 6). Prices start from around 3045,staying in four-star lodges, to 4895 ormore for five-star accommodation.

With regular flights to Kruger Mpumalangaairport, where light aircraft ferry passengersto individual lodges, a Kruger safari caneasily be added to a holiday in Cape Townor the Garden Route.

ITINERARIES

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Lemurs are a varied group of

primates endemic to Madagascar.

It is thought they colonised the

island about 65 million years ago.

Since then, lemurs have evolved

independently, isolated from the

continents, and their adaptations

to Madagascars highly seasonal

environment and different ecological

niches have produced a wonderfully

varied group of animals,with nearly

100 species remaining.

Lemurs once ranged in size from the

worlds smallest primate, the tiny one

ounce Mme Berthes mouse lemur,

to a now extinct 200lb sloth lemur,

and were dispersed across the entire

island.The arrival of humans around

2000 years ago first fragmented and

then cleared many of the forests and

led to the extinction of at least 17

species, including all the giant lemurs.

All lemurs are threatened and 16%

are critically endangered.Wildlife

tourism makes a vital contribution

to the survival prospects of these

unique animals and to the fate of

one of the worlds most important

biodiversity hotspots.

LEMURS

36A-Z OF AFRICA

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The easiest place to observe lemurs is in thespiny forest habitat ofBERENTY PRIVATERESERVE. Ringtails wander around therestaurant and you can watch dancingVerreauxs sifakas over your early morningcoffee. Professor Alison Jolly, who has beenstudying the Ringtails of Berenty since 1963,claims that only a small proportion of theRingtail population has become habituated and you will get excellent sightings.

Prinet, three hours from the capital, protectstwo groups of habituated Indri, the largestsurviving lemur, which has an extraordinarilyeerie call. You can almost count on seeingthem.The Eastern grey bamboo lemur andCommon brown lemur are also regularlyencountered. The most comfortable place to stayis the family-run VAKONA FOREST LODGE.

Nearby Mantadia is a hilly area of primaryrainforest inhabited by up to 14 lemur speciesincluding wild Indri, the Black-and-whiteruffed and Red-bellied lemurs, and the

beautiful Diademed sifaka, which gives birthin June/July. The steep trails can be slippery;but the effort is more than repaid by the

wealth of wildlife, the splendour of the forest

and the glimpse of eastern Madagascarsrainforest band in its natural state.

Ranomafana, about nine hours south of thecapital, is a magnificent rainforest parkcontaining at least 12 species of lemur. Threeof the extant bamboo lemurs are found here,including the Golden bamboo lemur discoveredby Dr. Patricia Wright in 1985 and the rareGreater bamboo lemur. These species can co-exist because each feeds on a different part of

the bamboo. Milne-Edwards sifaka, Black-and-white ruffed, Red-bellied and Red-frontedbrown lemurs are among the other speciespresent, so Ranomafana is outstanding for thediversity of lemurs commonly encountered. You

will need to devote at least a day to reach virginprimary rainforest and the richest areas for birdsand lemurs. Or we can provide the equipmentand personnel for a nights camping .

Ankarafantsika National Park, about 115kmfrom the port of Mahajanga, is the best placeto see the lemurs of the dry deciduous foresthabitat, and a notable birding hotspot. TheCoquerels sifaka has become almost indifferentto humans; and Western woolly lemur, Greymouse lemur and the Milne-Edwards sportivelemur are frequently encountered.

Further north, Anjajavy Reserve offers aneffortless opportunity to observe Coquerelssifaka and Common brown lemur by dayand sportive and mouse lemurs by night.

ANJAJAVY HOTEL provides some of the bestaccommodation in Madagascar, as well asfascinating excursions, and the opportunityfor a delightful beach holiday.

Ankarana, 100km south of Antsiranana, has knock-out combination of fantastic tsingy ro

formations, huge caves, pristine forest and awealth of wildlife. The male Crowned lemurparticularly attractive, with its ginger ruff andcrown and black head stripe, and easy to findSanfords brown lemur has fine white whiske

The diurnal Black lemur can be found inLokobe, on Nosy Be, and on the smallervolcanic island of Nosy Komba. Both havedistinctive ear tufts, but only the male is blaTSARA KOMBAis one of our favourite placefor an idyllic, interesting beach holiday andfor seeing black lemurs.

If you are adventurous and want to seek therarest surviving sifaka, we can organise a tripover rough tracks to Analamera, where thecritically endangered Perriers sifaka clings tosurvival in a fragment of semi-humid forest

BERENTY

PRINET & MANTADIA

RANOMAFANA

THE NORTHWEST

THE NORTH

A-Z OF AFRICA

opposite

Red-ruffed lemur

below left

Female crowned lemur

below right

Common brown lemur

bottom left

Black & white ruffedlemur

bottom right

Sportive lemur

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The grace, beauty and formidable

hunting ability of Africas big cats make

lion and leopard the highlight of many

safaris. Farmers and herders perceive

them as vermin, to the extent that the

cats are now largely confined toconservation areas.Numbers have

plummeted in the past 20 years and

many conservationists believe that

the continued survival of these

predators lies in the balance.

Creative conflict resolution is key

to the big cats hopes of survival.

In Kenya,Ol Donyo Wuas

revolutionary predator

compensation scheme has stabilised

the lion and leopard populationsin the Chyulu foothills and is being

extended west to Amboseli.

Ask us about initiatives you can

support through your big cat safari.

LIONS

& LEOPARDS

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Once distributed from Greece to India andacross most of the African continent, the lionis now a vulnerable species. Most of Earthsremaining lion are found in the protected areasof southern and East Africa.

Alone among the cats, lion are social animalsand live in prides of related females, theirimmature cubs and one or two males. Genderis obvious from appearance and determines

an individuals role in the pride. Hunting ingroups, lion can bring down most mammals.Lion prey is diverse, and influenced byavailability: they favour wildebeest and zebrain the Serengeti, regularly hunt giraffe inKruger and buffalo in both Lake ManyaraNational Park (page 82) and at Duba Plainsin the northern Okavango (page 44).

Although lion may hunt by day, they areprimarily nocturnal, so you are most likely tofind them active at dawn or after dusk andhear their roar throughout the night. In East

Africa, lion are found on the savannahgrasslands. In the bushveld of southern Africa,

spotting lion is easiest during the winter months.

The location for Kenyas Big Cat Diary, theMasai Mara has one of the highest densities of

lion. With its enormous herds of grazers, theSerengeti supports a large population ofresident lion, particularly in the Seronera andthe less-frequented Western Corridor. In thesouth-western part of Ugandas QueenElizabeth National Park, Ishasha is renownedfor its tree-climbing lion, a behaviour shared

with the lion of Lake Manyara National Parkin Tanzania. You are virtually certain to seelion in South Africas Sabi Sand WildlifeReserve (page 34). In Botswana, Savuti isfamed for its lion who have to survive long

periods without water; Duba Plains for thecontinuous struggle between lion and buffalo.

With its beautiful coat, opportunistic huntingand the relentless loss of its habitat, the elegant

African leopard is a near-threatened species.Its spotted coat is unique to each individualand provides almost perfect camouflage.Leopard spots form distinctive rosettes,circular in East Africa and squarer in southern

Africa. Leopard show a pronounced variationin size, from up to 90kg in the Kruger to just30kg in mountainous areas.

The adult leopard is solitary, except duringmating. The female gives birth to two-fourcubs, but infant mortality is nearly 50%. Whilemid-size antelope are preferred, the leopards

diet is varied, ranging from insects and rodento large eland. Leopard hunt by stealth andinch as close as possible before they sprint anpounce. Hunting alone, leopard rarely defendtheir kills against lion and hyena, but frequenprotect them by dragging the carcass up a tre

While leopard sightings in the thicker bushand acacia woodland of the central Serengetare among the best in Africa, early morningand dusk are the best times to see them,because they generally hunt at night.

A conservation area where night drives areallowed maximises the chance of a sighting.

In South Africa, leopard are numerous andmost easily observed in the Sabi Sand WildlReserve. In Zambias South Luangwa (page58), the leopard density is among the highesin the world, about 1 to 2.5sq.km, and youcan expect excellent sightings. Chief s Islandin the Moremi Game Reserve (page 44) ispossibly the best place to see leopard inBotswana. It is rivalled by the private reservearound the Kwando-Linyanti river system,between the Okavango Delta and Chobe.

LION

LEOPARD

opposite

Mana Pools,Zimbabwe

below left

Sabi Sands

below right

Okavango

bottom right

Hwange,Zimbabwe

A-Z OF AFRICA

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Legendary for its exceptional

populations of big cats, diverse

and abundant resident wildlife and

for the annual Great Migration

(page 42), the Masai Mara is the

continuation of the Serengeti

ecosystem over the border into

southwestern Kenya.

Primarily undulating, open grassland

interspersed with riverine forest and

woodlands, the Mara owes its name

to the trees that dot the savannah

and the Maasai pastoralists who

migrated from the Lower Nile Valley

to settle the area.

The Mara consists of the national

reserve, itself comprising the Mara

Reserve and the Mara Triangle,

and the adjoining game dispersal

areas, or conservancies,where the

game is equally abundant and the

visitors fewer.The conservancies

encompass an area as large as the

national reserve.Camps in the

conservancies may provide night

drives and bush walks, too.

MASAI MARA

40A-Z OF AFRICA

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The number and variety of animals in theMara is simply staggering: it is not uncommonto see ten or more species of plains gamegrazing on the savannah under the watchfuleyes of hyena, cheetah or lion. Combined withthe Mara, Talek and Sand rivers, the Marasvast grasslands and varied habitats are the keyto this proliferation of wildlife.

The rivers are inhabited by pods of hippo, and

enormous Nile crocodile awaiting theopportunity to snatch an unlucky wildebeestcrossing the waters or an antelope slaking itsthirst. Resident plains game includes buffalo,eland, roan, topi, hartebeest, Thomsons andGrants gazelle, zebra, wildebeest and Masaigiraffe. Herds of elephant keep the acacia incheck. Lion, cheetah, spotted hyena, leopardand the nocturnal serval stalk the abundantplains game. The endangered Black rhino ishere but is hard to find in the Mara.

A dazzling array of birds can be found in theMara, including an amazing 53 birds of prey.

The 500+ bird list includes Jacksonswidowbird, Grey-crested helmet-shrike,12 species of Cisticola, the near threatened

Denhams bustard, three uncommonwoodpeckers, the rare African finfoot,Usambiro barbet, the lovely Rosss turaco andnumerous migrants.

The Mara has a large and varied choice ofaccommodation; many conservationistsbelieve there are too many. We favour thesmaller camps in prime locations where theguiding is consistently excellent and yourpersonal interests can be met.

In the national reserve, in the area oncereserved for Kenyas colonial governors, thefour Governors Camps stand on either side ofthe Mara River ring-side seats for theMigration. Governors is an established familybusiness and proud of the excellent training ofits guides, its relations with the Maasaicommunity and its ever-increasingsustainability. Award-winningLITTLEGOVERNORS is reached by boat, its 17 tentsarranged around a watering-hole.GOVERNORS MAIN CAMP is tucked into theriverine forest. At IL MORAN, the ten spacioustents recall the elegant safaris of yesteryear down to the Victorian clawfoot bath. PRIVATECAMP is superb for an authentic safari for aprivate party of 4 -16. We also like SALAS

CAMP, a seasonal camp on the Sand River ithe quiet south of the reserve, which has clorelations with the rhino wardens.

Adjoining the reserve, the Olare OrokConservancy is a model of responsibleconservation. The conservancy holds a leasefrom the Maasai landowners, who haveremoved homesteads and reduced theirlivestock herds in return for a fair monthlyincome. Only four camps accommodatinmaximum of 72 people have traversing

rights in the 30,000 acres of the OOC, so yare unlikely to encounter another vehicle asyou observe the inordinate number of animin the conservancy.

We love MARA PLAINS for its supremelycomfortable octagonal tents overlooking theNtiakatek River, its superlative guides, theunimpeded viewing from its safari vehicles, flexible attitude to game viewing and starlitdinners with grazing hippos providing thebacking. KICHECHE BUSH CAMP is anothfavourite. The tents are lovely and vehicleshave been designed with photography inmind. You can take a bush walk, visit a villaor one of the schools Kicheche supports; or off on foot for a nights fly-camping.

WILDLIFE

CAMPS & LODGES

BIRDLIFE

opposite

Cheetah with cubs

below left

Saruni Campi

ya Tembo

below right

Mara Plains Camp

bottom left

Elephant at Kicheche

bottom right

Mara Plains Camp

A-Z OF AFRICA

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The Migration is one of the most spectacularnatural phenomena on earth. Over 1.3 million

wildebeest, 200,000 zebra, 350,000 Thomsonsgazelles and more than 10,000 eland makethe annual, circular journey from the Serengetito the Mara in the endless quest for fresh

pasture and water. They travel their 500kmroute, pursued by hungry predators, andthe force of the migratory instinct is palpableat the dramatic crossings of the crocodile-infested rivers.

Rainfall has a strong influence on the GreatMigration: the herbivores have to follow thepath of the rains to find fresh grasses and agood water supply. While it is impossibleto predict the exact path and timing of theMigration, we provide a general guide to theannual cycle.

After the short rains, the wildebeest are massedon the short grass plains of the southernSerengeti. Over a period of about three weeksfrom mid-January, the herds give birth tohundreds of thousands of calves easy pickingsfor the waiting cheetah, jackal and hyena. To bein the heart of the Migration, we recommendone of the superb mobile tented camps likeOLAKIRAor NDUTU SAFARI LODGE, whichhas 34 cottages and a real family atmosphere.

As the grasslands of the southern Serengeti areexhausted and the plains become dry, the herdsgather and start to move north into the centralSerengeti. By May, the area around MoruKopjes and west of Seronera is busy withmoving columns of thousands of wildebeest,accompanied by numerous zebra. We favourDUNIA CAMP in the Moru Kopjes, orSERENGETI SAFARI CAMP.

From the end of May to July, the Migrationusually divides in two. One group moves westinto the Western Corridor before the perilous

Grumeti River crossing, while the other travto the rolling hills of the northern Serengetipassing near KLEINS CAMP. This is the seasof the rut, another synchronised event in thelife cycle of the wildebeest. We likeMIGRATION CAMP on the main route nortExclusive GRUMETI CAMP enjoys a primeposition for the Grumeti River crossing.

Between mid-June and July, the Migration brathe Mara and Talek rivers to reach the fresh grasof the Masai Mara. SAYARI CAMP is strategicaplaced on the southern side of the Mara River

where the animals mass before the trial of the ricrossing. In Kenya, LITTLE GOVERNORSCAMPs riverside location provides ringside viewof the crossing. To the north, the migration frothe Serengeti meets the earlier movement fromthe Loita Hills around MARA PLAINS CAMP.

As the clouds mass over the Serengeti, theanimals move south through the westernLoliondo and the Serengeti Lobo area, backtowards the southern Serengeti. SUYAN CAMis in the northern Loliondo from June toNovember and the southern Loliondo fromDecember through March.

DECEMBER - MARCH

APRIL

MAY - JULY

OCTOBER - DECEMBER

MIGRATION

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An extraordinary

density of wildlife is

contained within the walls

of this immense intactvolcanic crater.

Created by the collapse of a giant volcano,Tanzanias Ngorongoro Crater is one of Africasmost impressive geological features. It is thelargest intact dry volcanic caldera on earth,

with a 16-18km wide, mainly flat bottom andtowering forested walls. Within thismagnificent natural arena, comprisinggrassland, forest, swamp and a shallow lake, isan impressive concentration of wildlife: largeherds of wildebeest and zebra; herds of Grantsand Thomsons gazelle, tsessebe and buffalo; as

well as eland, bushbuck and the occasional oldtusker. The Crater is the best place to see Blackrhino in Tanzania.

Naturally, this munificence of herbivoresis a predators paradise. Spotted hyena arecommon and golden and side-striped jackalare often seen. Lion are indifferent to vehiclesand there is an increasing number of cheetah.Leopard frequent the wooded areas.

This spectacular World Heritage Site attractsso many visitors that entry permits are limitedto a half-day and congestion threatens thesense of wilderness. A couple of game drives inthe Crater is about right.

NGORONGORO CRATER LODGE is reallythree small, opulent lodges on the southwest ofthe crater rim. The exteriors are loosely basedon the Maasai manyatta; while the interiors aremore stately home in style. Each suite is raisedon stilts and provides fantastic views of thecrater floor, as well as having four-poster-beds,open fires, Persian rugs and a personal butler.

NGORONGORO SERENA LODGE is a largehotel on the western rim, with magnificentsunrises and crater views. It is comfortable,

welcomes children, is well priced for thelocation and stands just 8km from the descentroad. On the opposite side, NGORONGOROSOPA LODGE is larger, with glorious sunsetsand a pool. Its great advantage is its proximityto the quiet eastern descent road, which givesyou a couple of hours of tranquil game viewing.

With views over the undulating hills andforests beyond the Crater, lovelyLEMALALUXURY CAMP is a small and welcomingtented camp on the eastern rim. The site ispeaceful, full of birdlife and the occasional

nocturnal elephant and closest to the eastedescent road, so you have the Crater toyourself for a while. Leave time for a walk inthe forested hills or into Empakaai Crater wan armed guide.

If you value a more authentic and roundedexperience, GIBBS FARM, adjacent toNgorongoro Conservation Area, is a realdelight; just 90 minutes from the Crater and30 minute from Lake Manyara.

CRATER RIM LODGES

NGORONGORO HIGHLANDS

NGORONGOROopposite

Mara Plains

top

Ngorongoro

Crater Lodge

bottom

Ngorongoro

Crater floor

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Botswanas Okavango Delta is the worlds largestinland delta, a unique system of waterways,lagoons and islands supporting a vast array ofanimal and plant life, with excellent year-roundgame viewing. The Okavango is a model of lowvolume, low impact tourism, which not onlypreserves the pristine ecosystem but offers

a more exclusive safari experience.

On safari in the Okavango, you can watchwildlife from open 4WD vehicles, on nightgame drives, walking safaris and motor boats.Perhaps the most evocative way is bymokoro,a dugout canoe which is poled along the

waterways by your guide.

Depending on location and seasonal waterlevels, some camps offer a mix of gameactivities, whilst others specialise in just wateror land activities. Ideally, we recommendcombining different types of camps in

different areas so you can experience a rangeof activities, habitats and wildlife.

Created by the local Batawana people, theMoremi Game Reserve protects nearly a thirdof the Delta. This beautiful, lush and variedarea of lagoons and shallow pans, woodlandand plain, is exceptional for its high densityof game. We loveXIGERA CAMP, a remote andintimate camp in a private area of the Moremi.Surrounded by water, Xigera invites you tofocus on the Deltas watery aspect, exploring bymokoro and motorboat throughout the year.

Chiefs Island is probably the richest area ofMoremi, largely dry and renowned for its prolificgame. On the northwestern tip of the island, inthe exclusive Mombo Concession, CHIEFSCAMP is known for abundant sightings ofpredators: lion, leopard, cheetah and wild dog.

Camps in the private concessions surrounding theMoremi offer night drives and walking safaris,

which are not permitted within the national parks.DUBA PLAINS, one of the most remote camps in

the northern Okavango, is really exciting, withdramatic confrontations between Dubas lionprides and enormous buffalo herds. West ofChiefs Island, NXABEGA TENTED CAMP hasan electrically powered eco-boat for exploring thelagoons and channels. BAINES CAMP, in a privateconcession near the southwestern border of theMoremi Reserve, is a relaxed and intimate camp

with four-poster sky beds that roll onto your deckfor sleeping under the stars, great game viewingand the incredible privilege of walking andinteracting with three orphaned semi-habituatedelephants in their natural habitat.

MOREMI RESERVE

CHIEFS ISLAND

OKAVANGO

Combine three nights at Nxabega Tented Campwith three nights at Sandibe Safari Lodge. From3295, including air transfers, all meals, selecteddrinks and game-viewing activities.

Two nights at Baines Camp, including theelephant interaction activity, two nights atDuba Plains and two nights at Chief s Campcost from 4685.

For ideas about including the Okavango in acomprehensive Botswana safari, see page 66.Alternatively, you can explore the Okavangoon a small group camping safari (page 10).

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16/20A-Z OF AFRICA

Absolutely perfect for families, groups offriends, or a honeymoon couple looking forthe ultimate in privacy, a holiday staying in aprivate house, apartment or villa means youcan custom-make your holiday experiencefrom start to finish.

Booked exclusively for you, and fully staffedwith a private chef and waiters, safari housesalso provide you with a dedicated game-viewing vehicle and your own guide. Familiescan schedule their game drives around theinterests and attention spans of their children;and birders and serious photographers canpursue their interests as single-mindedly asthey wish.

Zambia has an enviable collection of stylishsafari houses amidst superb game viewingcountry. LUANGWA SAFARI HOUSE in theSouth Luangwa and CHONGWE RIVERHOUSE in the Lower Zambezi make anexcellent pairing for up to eight people; orextend your holiday with a stay at TANGALAHOUSE, near the Victoria Falls. Smaller partiesof four might prefer ROBINS HOUSE, or oneof the houses at SUSSI & CHUMA.

With its impeccable eco-credentials, outstandingreputation, authentic hospitality and plethora of activities sure to appeal to all generations,OL MALO HOUSE, on the edge of the LaikipiaPlateau in Kenya, offers an outstanding

wilderness experience for up to 12 people.

If you prefer a malaria-free safari, KHUSELAPRIVATE GAME RESERVE in the South AfricasEastern Cape is just a short drive from the beachand, with no predators on the reserve, you canexplore on foot, in a two-seater 4x4 buggy, or bysafari vehicle with your private in-house guide.For the Big Five experience, take a day safari innearby Pumba Game Reserve. Alternatively, stayat KWANDWE UPLANDS PRIVATEHOMESTEAD on the breathtaking KwandwePrivate Game Reserve.

A private villa or apartment makes a greatalternative to an hotel and offers excellent valuein some of the best locations in Cape Town.

Apartments are fully serviced and generallyaccommodate from two to six; villas anywherefrom four to 16 people. We have a wonderfulselection in trendy Camps Bay, as well as in andaround the vibrant V&A Waterfront.

We like the two- and three-bedroom villas othe BELLE MARE PLAGE in Mauritius, withits wide, powdery white beach. You still havethe facilities of a resort hotel and your ownbeach retreat, with private pool and dining.

On a long stretch of virtually empty, goldensand on the island of Lamu, off the northerncoast of Kenya, the seven spaciousKIZINGONI BEACH HOUSES are lovely,beautifully furnished and exceptionallycomfortable. Each house has a choice of

terraces, verandahs and lounge areas forsolitary or social pursuits, its own staff, skipand boat, pool and choice of dining areas fomeals created around the tastes of your party

PRIVATE SAFARI HOUSES

CAPE TOWN

THE BEACH

PRIVATE HOUSEStop

Chongwe River House

above left

Luangwa Safari House

above centre

Ol Malo House

above right

Kizingoni Beach House

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The islands that make up the

Quirimbas Archipelago are a

collection of sparkling jewels

scattered in the warm waters

of the Indian Ocean off the coast

of northern Mozambique.

This untouched corner of the

universe was undisturbed until the

close of the 20th century, when

enterprising conservationists in

partnership with the Mozambique

government, the London Zoological

Society and the local community

launched the Cabo Delgado

Biodiversity and Tourism Project

to conserve and develop the area.

The diverse marine wildlife it was

founded to protect includes Greenand Hawksbill turtles,whale sharks,

dugongs, populations of dolphins,

Manta rays and humpback whales.

Over 40 genera of coral have been

catalogued, and more than 350

species of reef fish thrive on the

pristine reefs. In 2002, the whole

area was declared a national park.

QUIRIMBAS

46A-Z OF AFRICA

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The first lodge built by the project was onVamizi, a 12km long and 1.5km wide islandfringed by coral reefs and soft white sandin the far north, by the Tanzanian border.

Activities at VAMIZI ISLAND LODGE includeturtle watching, snorkelling, exceptionaldiving, game fishing, dhow sailing, and

walking on the beaches or in the virgin forestthat covers the island. The ten spacious luxurychalets are individually set into the forest

bordering the shore and have private verandahsoverlooking the dazzlingly white sand beach.

In the 18th century, Ibo Island was importantboth as a slave trading port and as anadministrative centre for the Portuguese empire.

Abandoned early in the 20th century, Ibosgrand palaces, villas and star-shaped forts havefallen into disrepair and the buildings of thishaunting backwater are now overrun by thetendrils of strangler figs. Stay at IBO ISLANDLODGE, a comfortable lodge that occupiesthree restored seafront mansions and providesgreat food and hospitality, as well as a rich

choice of activities. These include guidedhistorical tours of the town, boat trips throughthe mangrove swamps and visits to the local

silversmiths: bring them your unwanted silverand they will make you some fine new jewellery.The beach at Ibo is on a sandbar which risesafresh each day from the tropical sea.

Ibo Island Lodge and Guludo Beach Lodge(below) share a common objective. They werebuilt with the intention of providing clearbenefits to their local communities and, at eachlodge, the community involvement providesadded interest and a richer experience.

At the time of writing, three other islands haveaccommodation. MEDJUMBE is a thin speckof an island, long enough for a runway on onehalf and 12 well-equipped but small chalets onthe other. MATEMO is a larger, resort-stylelodge of 24 chalets sporting all mod-consincluding satellite TV, air-conditioning andplenty of activities. QUILALEAis a tiny island

with no airstrip and just nine secluded andluxurious villas, several with a private strip ofbeach or cove. Due to reopen at the end of2010, Quilalea will provide the same five-starplus luxury as its sister lodge,AZURA, onBenguerra Island. The island has a fabuloussetting in a marine reserve and one can snorkeland dive right off the beach.

GULUDO BEACH LODGE, on the mainlandacross the water from Ibo Island, consists ofnine lovely beachside bandas, hand-built to ainnovative design using local materials. Thisaward-winning sustainable lodge is a jointventure between a young English couple andthe community in Guludo village to protectthe environment and revitalise the localeconomy. Activities include diving, snorkellibush walks, village trips and much more.

Also on the mainland, some way south ofPemba, NUARRO is owned by two Dutchcouples with a passion for diving and strongethical principles. Constructed from localmaterials by local people, Nuarro blends intits setting a lovely, sandy beach surroundeby virgin bush. Its 12 spacious chalets proviuninterrupted bay views in one direction anof the bush and baobab forest in the other.Nuarro offers a wide choice of land, waterand cultural activities, and the diving isextraordinarily varied. We particularly likebeing able to dive from the shore at Nuarroand the richness of the house reef, but

experienced divers can enjoy challenging divalong the fabulous Baixo do Pinda walls, grenight dives and wreck dives.

opposite

Vamizi Island Lodge

below

Adobe Banda,

Guludo

bottom left

Vamizi room

bottom right

Old slave wharves,

Ibo town

A-Z OF AFRICA

VAMIZI ISLAND THE MAINLAND

IBO ISLAND

OTHER ISLANDS

Combine four nights on safari at a lodgein the Sabi Sand Wildlife Reserve (Krugerregion page 34) with five nights at Guludoand two on Ibo from 2695.

Combine a 3-night safari in Gorongosa

(see page 58) with five nights on Nuarrofrom 2135.

ITINERARY IDEAS

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See the changing

landscape of South

Africas interior in great

comfort and style.

48A-Z OF AFRICA

Travelling through Africa by train combines theromance and glamour of a cruise with thestunning vistas of the African continent. Themost popular route is between Cape Town andPretoria, travelling through the verdant

Winelands and rocky outcrops of the WesternCape and the vast open plains of the Karoo.Depending on the train and direction of travel,passengers can break the journey with a visit tothe historic mining town of Kimberley or thequaint village of Matjiesfontein, which remainslargely unchanged from colonial times.

This renowned train operates regular overnightjourneys between Cape Town and Pretoria.Steeped in history, The Blue Train has beena South African institution since 1946.

You can expect five-star service, custom-madecompartments with en suite bathrooms,personal butler service and oversize windowsthrough which to gaze at the changinglandscapes. The sophisticated suspensionhas been designed to allow the train torun through the night without disturbingyour sleep.

Cape Town to Pretoria from 935Please inquire about occasional specialitineraries including safari trips to the Krugerand golf tours to KwaZulu Natal.

Rovos bills itself as the most luxurious trainin the world. It offers the ultimate inglamorous train travel from its beautifully-restored colonial-era station in Pretoriato a number of destinations throughoutsouthern Africa.

Rovos takes a more leisurely two nights overthe trip to Cape Town and includes a stop atboth Kimberley and Matjiesfontein in bothdirections. Rovos operates a regular scheduleof train journeys from Pretoria to Victoria Fallsand Durban, and occasional longer tripsaround South Africa, to the Namibian coastor through Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambiato Dar es Salaam.

Rovos Rail sets a tone of graceful elegance,epitomised by the painstakingly restoredcarriages and dining cars. Modernconveniences like air-conditioning, mini-barsand en suite facilities blend in with the periodfittings and wood panelling. We particularlylike the deluxe suites with writing desks andpermanent double beds (the bed in thePullman suites is converted into a sofa duringthe day). After a lavish four-course dinner,retire to the open-air observation car at therear for a nightcap over a game of chess or

while contemplating the bright constellationsof the southern skies.Cape Town to Pretoria from 1115;Cape Town to Dar es Salaam from 6095.

RAIL JOURNEYStop

Montagu Pass

above left

Deluxe Suite,

Rovos Rail

above right

Room service,

Rovos Rail

opposite

Bedroom view,

Sand Rivers Selous

THE BLUE TRAIN

ROVOS RAIL

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With breath-taking wildlife, sweeping vistas,twinkling night skies and palm-fringed beaches,

Africa is naturally romantic. Whether you arecelebrating an anniversary, a special birthday,plan to propose, or simply want an intimate

getaway, we can design a fabulous trip to suit.Our honeymoon section (page 28) containssome ideas for romantic holidays. Here, wefocus on some of those places that will go outof their way to ensure your personal dreamsare fulfilled.

On an exclusive concession in South Africasmalaria-free Madikwe Game Reserve, intimateMakanyanes enormous glass-fronted suitesdissolve the division between outdoors and in.Open the wide folding doors of the bathroomsand savour the scents and sounds of the bushfrom the bath. You can relish Makanyanes finecuisine on your private verandah with viewsover the bush or overlooking a favourite

waterhole. If you would like to sleep out undernumberless stars, Makanyanes overnight hideis a fabulous bush experience.

Deep in the heart of southern Tanzanias vastSelous Game Reserve, Sand Rivers Camp isabout the romance of the wild. Set on a widecurve of the Rufiji River, the five rooms andthree suites are open-fronted, yet private, withachingly beautiful views over the river. This isone of Africas best safari camps, with some ofthe Tanzanias finest guides for your variedadventures game drives in open 4WDs and

walking, boat trips and river safaris, fly-camping and fishing and a staff committed to

f l h

If it werent for the untamed beauty of theSamburu lands, the warmth of the hospitaliand the abundant wildlife of the reserve; if i

werent for the surrounding Samburu culturthe restorative spa and the kopjes from whicto toast the end of day, Sasaab would still bethe place for ultra-romantic, stylish lodgingSet in a community conservancy, Sasaab canalso provide you with the pleasures of walkior riding a camel through the bush or alongthe river, as well as night drives.

West of the Kruger, Garonga is a lovely, tensafari camp above a dry riverbed. From itsinception, Garonga has offered an unhurriepersonal safari experience including gamedrives, walks and private sleep-outs on a decin the veldt and picnic in the trees and aholistic safari for the soul. Even if you are nointo reflexology, the untouched beauty, thepace and the care with which you are lavisheis soothing and refreshing. Once at Garongamany cynics suspend disbelief and enjoy thebush bath.

SAND RIVERS CAMPGARONGA SAFARI CAMP

SASAABMAKANYANE SAFARI LODGE

ROMANCE