AIM January 2010 Project Supplement

January 2010: Project Supplement ‘Special’ Issue.

5 Editor’s Note: Read Bea Broadwood’s introduction & welcome to this month’s special edition of the Artisans In Miniature FREE ‘downloadable’ magazine! 65 The Miniature Grapevine: Catch up on all the latest news and announcements from the international miniature world.

Artisans In Miniature 2

Contents…

Page 6 - Crochet Christmas Ornament: By Frances Powell of Buttercup Miniatures.

Page 8 - Little Faces Project: By Eileen Sedgwick.

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Page 12 - Marotte Toy: By Sandra Morris of Diminutive Dolls.

Free Projects…

Page 14 - Holly & Poinsettia Christmas Door Wreath: By Kathryn Gray of Templewood Miniatures.

Page 16 - Knitted Miniature Gloves: By Helen Woods of Living In A Miniature.

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Page 19 - Santa’s Mini Helpers: By Julie Kendall of Jakdaws Attic.

Page 24 - Scandinavian Style Christmas Cushion & Stool: By Julia Jeffreys of Bearcabinminiatures.

Page 26 - Christmas Rug Project: By AIM member Carol Smith.

24

Page 30 - A Toy Box In 1:24th Scale: By Bea (Fiona) Broadwood of Petite Properties Ltd

32

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Page 34 – Printable Table Linen: By Sally Watson of SallyCat Miniatures.

Page 32 - A Christmas Mouse: By Jain Squires of The Giddy Kipper.

Page 36 – Yule Log Project: By Philippa Todd of Todds Toys & Mniatures.

Page 38 – Tassels: By Helena Bleeker of Helena Petite Fashions.

Page 39 – Inukshuk (Stone Man): By Lorrie of Lorrie’s Green World.

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Page 41 – Christmas Box & Tissue Box Project: By Maia Bisson of Maia’s Twinkle Miniatures.

Page 43 – Rudolf The Red Nosed Hobby Horse: By Julie Campbell of Bella Belle Dolls


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Page 47 – Christmas Tree Candy Canes: By Stéphanie Kilgast of Petit Plat.

47 Page 51 – Christmas Colouring Book: By Carol Lester of The Dolls House Mall.

Page 52 – Santa Teapot Tutorial: By Ernesto Baldini of Punto Sur Miniaturas.

52

Page 55 – Easy Mince Pies: By Vicky Guile of NJD Miniatures.

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Page 57 – Baby Essentials ‐ Miniature Knitting:

By Jeannette Fishwick of Alice’s Emporium Miniatures.

Page 59 – Christmas Baubles Tutorial: By Mags Cassidy of Mags‐nificent Miniatures.

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Page 60 – Miniature AIM Calendar 2010: By Terry & Anne Dateman of Dateman Books.

Page 61 – Swaddled Baby Tutorial: By Debie Lyons of Piskies & Poppets.

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Editor’s Note...

The AIM magazine’s Editorial Team

(in 'first name' alphabetical order)

Bea (Fiona) Broadwood Editor,

Layout &Format Designer

office@petite‐properties.com

Debie Lyons Gallery Coordinator

[email protected]

Janine Crocker [email protected]

Julie Campbell

Miniature Grapevine Coordinator

[email protected]

Mags Cassidy info@mags‐nificent.co.uk

Mary Williams

[email protected]

Vicky Guile: Coordinator of

In Season This Month

[email protected]

Dear Reader Happy new year and a very warm welcome to the January

issue of the AIM magazine!

As we decided to give our members some well earned time off

over the festive season, we are very proud this month to

instead bring you our special project supplement, which is

packed with 24 fabulous projects all written by AIM members.

All of the projects and tutorials featured in this very special

January supplement were taken from last month’s award

winning AIM Advent calendar and we hope that they will be

the perfect antidote to combat those dark, cold winter nights!

Alternatively, where ever you are in the world, we hope you will

all find something to enjoy, now that the sparkle of Christmas

has officially faded...

The AIM magazine will of course be back in February, with a

new look, brand new features and much, much more…

and all still FREE of course!

What more could you want…?

Bea Editor (& General whip cracker) January 2010 www.petite‐properties.com


Please note all AIM members contribute to the magazine…

1/12th Scale Tree Shaped Crochet Ornament

By AIM Member Frances Powell

Abbreviations:

ch‐chain; dc– double crochet; tr‐treble cro‐

chet; htr half treble crochet; st– stitch; sl‐

slip; ( ) repeat instructions between brack‐

ets.

American readers please note:

dc=single crochet, tr=double crochet;

htr=half double crochet

Materials required:

0.60 mm crochet hook (US size 14 steel), No

80 or 100 crochet cotton, if this is not avail‐

able use a good quality sewing thread. The

finer the cotton the smaller the finished

items.

To make ornament:

Foundation round: 24 ch, join with a sl st to form a loop.

Round 1: 12 ch, miss 1 ch on foundation loop, sl st into next ch to join, 10 ch, miss 1 ch

on foundation loop, sl st into next ch to join, 8 ch, miss 1 ch on foundation loop, sl st

into next ch to join, 6 ch, miss 1 ch on foundation loop, sl st into next ch to join, 6 ch, sl

st into next ch to join, 6 ch, miss 1 ch on foundation loop, sl st into next ch to join, 8 ch,

miss 1 ch on foundation loop, sl st into next ch to join, 10 ch, miss 1 ch on foundation

loop, sl st into next ch to join, 12 ch, miss 1 ch on foundation loop, sl st into next ch to

join and fasten off. Sew in all loose ends.


www.buttercupminiatures.co.uk

© Copyright F. H. Powell 2009 This pattern is for private use only and may not be reproduced in any form for commercial gain, including selling any item knitted up from these patterns without written permission from

Buttercup Miniatures

To stiffen ornament:

A. Traditional sugar solution method

1. Make a solution of two teaspoons boiling water to one level teaspoon sugar.

2. Stir until sugar is dissolved.

3. Place crochet in the solution until the crochet is completely wet through. Wring out

excess solution or sugar crystals will form on the finished work!

4. Pin the crochet out on a piece of corrugated cardboard or polystyrene covered in cling

film, using rustproof pins (as normal steel pins will rust and leave unsightly marks). Only

pin around the edges of the decoration, making sure all the details are pinned out to form

points. Pull the crochet into shape as you work around, making sure the tree decoration

stays flat.

5. Leave to dry in a warm place for 24 hours minimum.

B. The item can be starched with laundry starch

Work as above starting at 3

C. PVA Glue

A solution can be made from PVA glue and water, this will dry clear and slightly shiny.

Proceed as from point 3 on sugar starching.

To finish:

When the decorations are completely dry remove the pins carefully and thread a small

piece of cotton or transparent thread through one of the holes left by a pin on the points

of the tree. Hang on tree.

By AIM Member Eileen Sedgwick




www.eileensedgwick.com

Marotte Toy

Special Christmas

Edition By AIM Member, Sandra Morris Marottes (or poupards) were small carved wooden dolls that

were made throughout Europe from the late 17th century.

Simple versions were carved in one piece and usually

represented a baby in swaddling clothes. Later dolls had

separately made limbs attached to a turned body and head, and

were often found in family, farm, village or Noah’s ark family

groups. Poupards with a musical movement triggered when the

doll was twirled were called marottes.

You will need: Small porcelain doll head (alternatively you can make one from polymer clay, or paint a face onto a

small wooden bead. It is best if you head has a short neck and it will also need a hole in the neck.

Ideally the head should be approximately 3‐4 mm diameter, roughly the size of a 1/24th scale baby.

Remember that the finished marotte is intended to be held by a 1/12th scale child!

Wooden handle (approx 1” long) – you can use a section of turned stair spindle, wooden turning, or

cocktail stick

4mm wide red and green silk ribbon

7mm wide red silk ribbon

Scrap of red silk fabric

Red or green picot braid

Red feather

Red and green pinhead crystals.

Bunka braid in the hair colour of your choice.

Instructions 1. Glue the end of the wooden handle into the neck of

the head. You may need to ‘sharpen’ the end so that it

fist neatly into the neck opening. Set aside till glue is

completely dry. ( Photo 1)

2. Unravel a length of hair‐coloured bunka so that if

forms a curly ‘frizz’. Apply a thin layer of glue over the

head where you want the hair to stick. The easiest way to apply the hair is to start at the nape of the neck

and follow a spiral pattern, around the head, finishing at the top of the crown. (Photo 2)

2 1

3. Cut 4 lengths of 4mm wide silk ribbon in both red and green. These should

be just long enough to fit from under the head to ¾ of the way down the han‐

dle. Cut one end at an angle.

4. Glue a tiny pinhead crystal onto the angled end of the silk ribbon, green on

red, red on green.

5. Glue these ribbon streamers around the neck of the head in two rows, al‐

ternating the colours. (Photo 3)

6. Cut a 3” length of 7mm wide red silk ribbon. Gather tightly and glue

around the neck, over the top raw edges of the ribbon streamers so that it

forms a ruff. (Photo 4)

7. Now make a simple hat using two small pieces of red silk. This can be any

shape you like so long as it has a front and a back. My marotte has a ‘crescent

moon’ shaped hat, but you can experiment with different styles and shapes.

Glue the front and back of the hat together around the outside edges, leaving

the bottom open so that it will fit onto the head. Glue picot braid or other

similar small scale trimming around the raw edges of the hat.

8. Glue the hat onto the head and allow to dry before proceeding. (Photo 5)

Decorate the hat with silk ribbon rosette bows, feathers etc. Finish off the hat

at the back with a larger silk ribbon rosette bow. (Photo 6)

These instructions are copyright © Sandra Morris and may not be used for commercial purposes.

Sandra Morris – Diminutive Dolls/Tower House Dolls

www.diminutivedolls.co.uk and www.towerhousedolls.co.uk

3

4

5 6 7

Holly & Poinsettia Christmas Door

Wreath

by AIM member Kathryn Gray of Templewood Miniatures

Wreaths have been placed on the main entrance doors to houses since Tudor times during festive seasons, they are a greeting to visitors and tell of the celebrations inside the home.

Materials Required...

Wire Cutters – to cut the wires to the required length Fine Tipped tweezers – used to place the flowers and foliage into the correct position PVA (white tacky) glue Stylus tool or round headed pin placed into a dowel Petal pad for shaping the leaves and petals Craft Knife

Six petal flower punch Holly leaf punch Red and dark green 80 gram paper Tiny red holeless beads Gold wire – 3 inches long Yellow acrylic paint Piece of 24 gauge wire ‐ 5 inches long

A kit with pre cut laser poinsettia petals and holly leaves, wire, red beads and instructions can be purchased from Templewood Miniatures – see details overleaf...

Method...

Twist the wire into a circle approximately 1 ½ inches in diameter and twist the top together to make a loop – its easier to twist the wire around something that is the size you want, as it ensures you make a neat circle.

Take approximately 40 holly leaves and place them on the petal pad, using the back of the craft knife blade, indent a central vein, this gives movement to the leaves.

Glue 15 of the holly leaves into 5 sets of three and when dry glue three tiny red beads into the centre of each, leave to dry.

Take six poinsettia rounds of petals and place onto the petal pad, with a stylus tool gently curve the petals upwards and then glue two rounds together, leave to dry. Using the yellow acrylic paint and a piece of wire paint yellow dots in the middle of the poinsettia flower, leave the paint to dry.


Using the remaining holly leaves glue on to the wire round and leave to dry. Take the three poinsettia flowers and glue into place on the bottom left hand side of the wreath. Glue the five sets of holly leaves in place – in the example three sets were placed to the right hand side of the poinsettias, one to the left and the remaining one over the loop at the top. It is always better to place flowers and leaves in odd numbers as it makes the effect look more balanced. Twist the piece of gold wire into a half circle shape and glue at the top of the wreath with the ends hanging down loose. Your Holly and Poinsettia Christmas Wreath is now complete, place on the front door of your dollshouse and enjoy.

Details...

Templewood Miniatures www.templewoodminiatures.co.uk [email protected]

44 (0)1707 320208 A kit for the Christmas wreath can be purchased for £5.00, including postage to anywhere in the world ‐ details from: [email protected] – the kit has lasered holly leaves, poinsettia petal rounds, wire, red beads and full instructions.



Men’s & Women’s Men’s & Women’s

Miniature GlovesMiniature Gloves By AIM Member Helen Woods Skill Level: Advanced Knitting

Materials Thread

Men’s Size: Mettler 60/2 Heirloom Sewing Thread Women’s Size: YLI 100 Pure Silk Thread

Needles 1 pair Size 24 (Eur .5mm USA 8/0)

Abbreviations

Inc: Increase by picking up the loop between stitches onto the left hand needle and then knit into the back of this to make an additional stitch

tbl: Through back of loop (stitch)

turn: Knit indicated number of stitches and then turn the piece of work part way through the row, and proceed to next pattern row

Wrist Starting at wrist edge, cast on 26 stitches, using the thumb method of casting on

Row 1: (K1, PI), repeat to last two stitches, K2 Row 2: (K1, P1) repeat to last two stitches, K2 Rows 3 – 8: Repeat rows 1 and 2 three times Row 9: K25, K1tbl Row 10: K1, P24, K1tbl Row 11: K12, Inc 1, K2, Inc 1, K11, K1tbl Row 12: K1, P26, K1tbl Row 13: K12, Inc 1, K4, Inc 1, K11, K1tbl Row 14: K1, P28, K1tbl Row 15: K17, K1tbl, turn

Thumb Row 1: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn Row 2: K5, K1tbl, turn Row 3: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn Row 4: K5, K1tbl, turn Row 5: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn Row 6: K5, K1tb, turn Row 7: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn

Cut thread, leaving about 6” tail. Thread this through the six thumb stitches, draw up and fasten off securely. Rejoin thread to last 12 stitches on left hand needle and proceed as follows:


Row 16: K11, K1tbl Row 17: K1, P22, K1tbl Row 18: K23, K1tbl Row 19: K1, P22, K1tbl Row 20: K14, K1tbl, turn

Index Finger

Row 1: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn Row 2: K5, K1tbl, turn Row 3: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn Row 4: K5, K1tbl, turn Row 5: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn Row 6: K5, K1tbl, turn Row 7: K1, P4, K1tbl

Cut thread, leaving about 6” tail. Thread this through the six finger stitches, draw up and fasten off securely. Rejoin thread to last 9 stitches on left hand needle and proceed as follows

Middle Finger

Row 1: K2, K1tbl, turn Row 2: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn Row 3: K5, K1tbl, turn Row 4: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn Row 5: K5, K1tbl, turn Row 6: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn Row 7: K5, K1tbl, turn Row 8: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn Row 9: K5, K1tbl


Ring Finger

Row 1: K2, K1tbl, turn Row 2: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn Row 3: K5, K1tbl, turn Row 4: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn Row 5: K5, K1tbl, turn Row 6: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn Row 7: K5, K1tbl, turn Row 8: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn



Little Finger Row 1: K2, K1tbl, turn Row 2: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn Row 3: K5, K1tbl, turn Row 4: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn Row 5: K5, K1tbl, turn Row 6: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn

Cut thread, leaving about 6” tail. Thread this through the six finger stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

Finishing Off Using a tiny ladder stitch, sew up the finger and thumb seams, including to the wrist on the little finger edge. I found that a length of fine styrene tubing was useful for keeping the fingers patent whilst sewing the seams. Make a second glove to match.

Enjoy... © Helen Woods 2007

Living in a Miniature World

Would you like to get your ‘hands’ on a pair of beautiful miniature gloves knitted by AIM member Helen Woods? If so, then don’t miss next month’s issue of the AIM magazine, which will feature a fabulous ‘free’ competition for you to enter...

Santa's Mini helpers By AIM member Julie Kendall

of Jakdaws Attic

You will need... Wire

Florist tape coloured polymer clay

liquid clay ruler blade

cocktail stick nail clippers or wire

cutters needles

Straight edged oven proof item/upturned loaf tin (not suitable for food use after) Sturdy baking sheet to stand tin on.

1) Lower body

First cut your wire and wrap with tape. Roll clay to size and then flatten as seen in picture. Lay wire half way onto disc and shape clay around wire until it resembles a cotton bud. Flatten bottom slightly allowing it to sit onto your surface. For the legs roll out a sausage shape as shown in photo, round off each end and then cut in half. About 1/2 cm from the start of the rounded end, turn clay to form a foot. Gently shape each foot to a point. Bend each leg in the middle where a knee would be and lightly flatten the top end as shown in the photo. Attach one leg either side of the "cotton‐bud" to create the lower half of your elf. Carefully sit your elf onto your loaf tin so that the back of the knee connects with the edge of the tin. Gently push onto points of toes to create a slight curl and ensure the back of the lower legs are as flush to the tin as possible. Check your wire is as straight as possible and then bake on an up turned

loaf tin following manufactures instructions, remove from oven when

done and leave to cool.

2) Upper body Once the lower half has cooled and you have shaped all the clay parts shown in the photo, take a cocktail stick and apply a small amount of liquid clay onto the area above the baked legs.

Slide the green ball of clay over the wire and shape as shown. Take a needle and draw an even line where his waist line would be.

Starting centre front, add the oblong shape (bottom of jacket) using the line you drew as a guide. Lightly pressing down around the join as you take the clay around his waist. When you reach centre front again,

trim and shape any excess clay with your blade. Smooth the top edge of the join around the waist of the body using the side of your needle.

Starting centre front again, place the thin line of dark clay on his waist line, gently pressing as you go. When you reach where you started, trim excess and press the small matching ball of clay over the join. Press the rounded end of your needle into the centre of the disc to create a buckle. 3) Hands and Sleeves

Take the diamond shaped clay and cut in half. Smooth and very slightly flatten the cut edges. Bend and shape each half to form the elf's arms/sleeves.

Press the smaller ends of the sleeves either side of the wire to represent the shoulders.


Next take the smaller flesh coloured balls of clay and shape into small teardrops. Place onto front of the body where the sleeves would end making it so that only the smaller half only of the teardrop disappears up under the sleeve. Gently flatten down the sleeve and with a needle, create crease lines into the sleeve where a natural bend in the arm would occur.

4) Head and collar

Use flesh coloured clay for the elf's head and roll out a ball to match the one shown in the photo. carefully pierce a hole though the centre using a needle. Next create two small cone shapes for the ears and one small ball for the nose. For his collar you will need to make a flat disc and then cut and remove a quarter segment.

Drape the collar around the wire and over his shoulders. When happy with the shape, press lightly into place using your finger. When you have done this, slide the head over the wire and press lightly onto the shoulders. Reshape if needed Slightly flatten out the cones you rolled for the ears and place one either side of the head. Using the side of you needle, blend and smooth the bottom of the ears onto the head. Take the small ball of flesh you made for the nose, position and once more using your needle, blend the top of the nose so that it will hold. Place the two tiny dark dots of clay onto his face to represent his eyes and lightly press in place. With the point of a needle draw a mouth into the clay.


5) Hat and Hair

Take the clay you chose for the hair and roll out plenty of a strands, how thick or thin is up to you. With the needle place the strands on his head working your way around the head,ears and up to the wire. When you have done this and are happy with the result, sit your elf back onto the upturned tin and pop him back into the oven, again follow manufactures instructions, remove from oven when time and leave to cool. Roll a ball of clay as shown in picture and then shape into a long cone. Using the same colour, roll out a strand of clay roughly about 5cm long. Take the nail clippers and cut the wire as close to the head as possible. Smear a small amount of little liquid clay on the top of the head and push the bottom of the cone onto the head. Shape the clay to fit around the top of the head and when happy with the shape, place the 5cm strand around the raw edge to create the hats brim. If you start and finish the brim behind one of the ears it makes for a neater finish. How you finish and decorate the hat is up to you but i like to finish it by rolling the end into a small curl. Once more pop back onto your tin or chosen surface and place into the oven for his final bake. Again make sure to follow your clays instructions for temperature and times. Remove from oven and leave to cool. 6) Finishing touches Al tough you could leave your elf the way he is, its always fun to add some little touches to your character. With a lick of Acrylic paint you could create some colourful dots or wonderful stripey leggings. Buckles can be given a fine touch of bronze or silver and cheeks lightly blushed to give a rosy glow. A surprised angle to the eyebrows or a cluster of painted freckles running across the nose can all give your little fellow that personal touch and give him or her a little life of its own.. A tiny bit of fine glitter here and there could also add a little bit of magic to boots or a hat. You could also create a larger version and add lots of wonderful accessories and sit him on a shelf at Christmas, or go smaller and have him peeping out from somewhere in a doll house or box room. If I use Acrylic paints I tend to use a Matt varnish for face and clothe details and a little gloss varnish on things such as eyes and boots, but again its very much up to you.

Hope you have enjoyed this tutorial...

Julie Kendall [email protected] www.freewebs.com/jakdaws/

Copyright Julie Kendall 2009

Are YOU a professional miniature artisan??

Do you sell quality handmade miniatures to the public??

Do you want to showcase your work and talents on a global platform??

Do you want to be part of a supportive professional association??

AND do you want it all for FREE???

If you answered 'YES' to EVERY question…

Then look no further, AIM is the professional miniaturists association for YOU!!

AIM is completely FREE to join and completely FREE to be part of.

So...if you are a professional miniature artisan and you would like to find out

more about joining the AIM Association,

please email AIM’s Membership Secretary: Mary for more information:

[email protected]

Or alternatively visit our website…

AArtisansrtisans IInn MMiniatureiniature “An association of professional artisans, dedicated to promoting a high standard

of excellence in original handcrafted scale miniatures…”

NEW www.artisansinminiature.com

artisansinminiature.blogspot.com



Scandinavian Style Christmas Cushion and Stool By AIM Member, Julia Jeffreys of Bearcabinminiatures

Add some Christmas fun to your Dolls House with this easy to stitch, cross‐stitch cushion and stool. Materials 18tpi (threads per inch) cotton canvas Sewing needles Size 24 or 26 A small needlework frame Toy filler or wadding (a cotton wool ball is a good substitute) White felt A commercially made stool Craft glue Embroidery thread: I use DMC stranded cotton

Green DMC colour 904 Red DMC 666 Light blue DMC 334 Mid blue DMC 336

Picot braid (optional) Before you begin Cut a square of canvas large enough to fit your frame. TIP If you are not using a frame, apply masking tape around the edges of the canvas to prevent fraying and give you a firmer edge whilst you are sewing. Use 2 strands of thread, cut at 50cm lengths for your stitches.

The Pattern

Stitching the cushion and stool cover Using the coloured graphs, begin stitching your design either from one edge or from the middle of the pattern, depending on where you feel comfortable. I always stitch from the bottom left hand corner and work one row at a time, stitching a half cross stitch and then doubling back at the end of the row to complete the full cross stitch. I find this is an easier way to follow the pattern and gives a neater finished. Please note, the Ivy on the cushion and the centre stars are stitched using a simple running stitch. Making up the cushion and stool When you have finished stitching your patterns, remove the canvas from your frame and cut carefully around each piece leaving an edge of canvas of 4 squares to turn over as a hem. Cut a square of felt the same size as the cushion and using the light blue thread, stitch the cushion front and felt together, leaving one end open. Insert your stuffing material into the cushion and stitch up the open end. Carefully remove the cushion pad and fabric cover from the stool. Place the stool’s cushion pad on your canvas, turn over your hem and glue. Then add glue to the stool top and put the cushion pad in place. I find it helps at this point to place a book on the top of the stool to hold the cushion in place whilst the glue dries. Once dry, you can add a little picot braid around the edge of the cushion pad to neaten your edges if you want. Tip If you want to make a larger cushion, just add another edging row of the light blue cross stitches.

Cushion and stool by Julia Jeffreys of Bearcabinminiatures

http://Bearcabinminiatures.etsy.com

Copyright design for personal use only, not for resale please.

Text & Photographs © Bearcabinminiatures

CHRISTMAS RUG PROJECT

By AIM Member Carol Smith ITEMS NEEDED: A piece of embroidery canvas with

mesh size wide enough to take double knitting wool

Tacky glue A darning needle or tapestry needle Double knitting wool in red,green and

gold Flax or similar cut to same size as your canvas.

METHOD: 1 ‐ Cut the desired size for your rug .I cut a three inch x two and half inch piece. 2 ‐ Place a little tacky glue round the very edges with a cocktail stick and leave to dry 3 ‐ Draw a Christmas tree in the centre of the canvas. I folded it in half to find the centre. 4 ‐ Thread a longish piece of red wool and starting at the bottom left corner of the canvas, draw it through the 1st square leaving about two inches not pulled through. 5 ‐ You can either thread through the square from the bottom, snipping the spare wool shorter near the end of the project or thread from the top to the underneath. 6 ‐ The underneath of the canvas will have the stitches pulled close to the canvas .As you put the wool into the next square leave a loop at the top. Weave in and out of each square up and down the rows until you reach the drawing. I worked round the tree and then used the green to fill in the tree using the same method of leaving loops. 7 ‐ Each time you use up the length of wool which you have threaded, end with the needle going from underneath to the top, leaving a length of wool. 8 ‐ When you have filled in the area round the tree, carefully snip round the edges and then continue cutting off the tops of the loops. Gradually trim the wool down. 9 ‐ Thread a length of green wool and starting from the top start filling in the squares as before. You will probably find it easier to follow the tree shape by turning the canvas over and following the shape from the back. 10 ‐ Carefully trim. 11 ‐ Thread some gold wool and make one loop for each bauble pulling the wool from the bottom to the top leaving a length of wool as you did each time you finished a length of wool. Do same with some red wool then trim. 12 ‐ Place a thin layer of tacky glue on the flax. 13 ‐ Turn your rug over and place the side of the flax which has the glue onto the rug.

You could work up to the tree and fill the tree in rather than filling all the red in 1st. You can use this method for a different picture. If you do not feel confident to draw you could trace a picture or use a rubber stamp.

Text & Photographs Copyright Carol Smith http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=6590817

Artisans In Miniature ?


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...and do you already know about the Artisans In Miniature Website, and the talented members who have all helped create this Online magazine.?

If not, copy, paste and CLICK now – www.artisansinminiatures.com and come and meet us all. Founded in 2007 by Bea (Fiona) Broadwood of Petite Properties, the site has been created in order to showcase the fantastic work of the individual professional international artisan members who create beautiful and original scale miniatures for sale to the public. Together they form the Artisans In Miniature association. Since its launch the AIM association has rapidly grown and now boasts membership of well over 200, including some of the most talented artisans within the miniature world! On the website you will find further information about them and their work; however, please note new pages are constantly being added and there are many members who are not yet included on the site... If you are a professional artisan who is interested in joining the association, you will find all the information there..... If you are wondering what Fairs may be on in your area – that information is there too… We have lots of links…to Fairs and Events Organizers…Magazines…Online Miniature clubs….Historical reference sites…..Workshops…and more… it’s all there!

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a 1:24th scale toy box...a 1:24th scale toy box...a 1:24th scale toy box... Materials… 2mm thick mount card

Medium card

Medium blue acrylic paint.

x1 cream 1mm seed bead

Tacky glue

Selection of blue and green

permanent felt tip pens

White gel pen

Step 1... Draw out the shapes shown below in fig.1 onto 2mm thick mount board. Label each piece in pencil with the corresponding letter (as shown below) Carefully cut out each shape using a craft knife and metal ruler. Score along line A on part C.

Step 2... Using tacky glue, apply glue along the long edges of the 2

sides; parts B and stick onto the front of the toy box; part A,

see picture 2. Clean away excess glue with a cotton bud

throughout the construction stages.

B

B A

.2.

By AIM Member, Bea (Fiona) Broadwood



This project was taken from Bea’s 3rd project book:

COUNTRY BEDROOMS

www.petite‐properties.com

Copyright LUMO publishing 2008

Step 3… Next glue the back; part C to the 2 sides; parts B to form

the back of the toy box, ensuring the scored line A is on

the exterior of the box. See picture 3. Allow to dry.

Step 4… Using tacky glue, glue the base; part D onto the bottom of

the toy box, ensuring that the back of the base is flush

with the back of the toy box, see picture 4.

Step 5 … Draw out panels; parts; E and F as shown in fig.2 onto

medium card and cut out. Glue into position onto the lid

and front of the toy box as shown in pictures 3 and 4.

Next cut a thin strip of medium card approximately ⅛in

wide x 2¼in long; part G and glue it onto the sides and

front edge of the lid. See pictures 3 and 4. Leave to dry.

Step 6 ... Paint the toy box with 2 coats of medium blue paint, see

picture 6. When dry, distress using the dry brush

technique and a little ‘mucky paint’.

Step 7... Using a selection of permanent felt tip pens in an assortment of

blue and green colours and a white gel pen; apply tiny areas of

clustered dots to create the illusion of floral painted panels to

the lid and front.

see picture 7.

.3.

C

E

G

B

B

D

.7.

F

C

B

G

.4.

.6.

A Christmas Mouse in 1/12th scale, from polymer clay

By AIM Member Jain Squires

Things you need:

Polymer clay . You will need less than 1 small block.

Black glass beads

Tin foil

Masking tape

Scrap of fabric

Needle or pin

Wooden sculpting tool

Domestic oven

Tile

Acrylic or genesis heat set paints

1. Work the polymer clay until soft and pliable. The mouse can be whatever size you like.

2. Make an oval shape from crushed foil. Roll the foil shape on a flat surface to get it tight and cover with

masking tape. The whole shape needs covering with the conditioned clay, tapering head end and pinching

in the bottom slightly at the sides.

3. Next make a teardrop shape from the clay. This will be the head.

4. Blend the clay from the head and body together using the wooden tool.

5. Indent under the chin with tool and mark out eyes( half way between back of head and nose) and the

ears ( halfway between the eyes and back of head) add small piece of clay to form the mouth and add a

nose.

6. Add seed beads for eyes and small flat circles for cheeks, blend clay.

7. Make 2 circles and flatten them and shape to ear shape as shown in photo.

8. Next roll a long thin log of clay. Cut into four pieces and shape and mark fingers and toes. Attach to

mouse as pictured.

9. Take 2 small flattened circles and put them on the sides of the mouse at the bottom for haunches, blend

clay.

10. This step is quite time consuming, but worth taking time over. The fur needs to be marked on with a

fine needle or pin, light, fine, close strokes give a realistic look on the finished piece.

Last step is to add a long thin tail, sitting the mouse onto it.

Now he is ready for the oven. To be baked per manufactures instructions for the clay

you are using.

After baking he needs to be painted mouse colour, mixing paints to suit. Around the

eyes, nose and on chest a lighter colour looks more realistic. I made a tiny Christmas

hat and scarf to keep him warm!!!


The Giddy Kipper

www.giddykipperdolls.com

Text & Photographs © Jain Squires Artisans In Miniature 33


SallyCat Miniatures sallycatminiatures.com

Text & Images © Sally Watson

Printable ChristmasPrintable Christmas

Table Linen Table Linen (1:12th Scale) By AIM Member Sally Watson

Table mats Print on gloss or silk photo paper and cut

to size.



Print on cotton lawn or similar printable fabric. Cut to size leaving a tiny margin of white. Roll the napkins and insert through jump rings or slices cut from a drinking straw. Add some bling by rolling the straw in glitter before cutting.

How to make a “Yule log”

chocolate cake,

in 1/12th scale, from polymer clay.

By AIM Member & IGMA Artisan

Philippa Todd.

Roll a ¾ inch (19 mm) diameter ball of dark brown polymer clay to the depth of 1/8th inch. Roll a ½ inch

(13mm) diameter ball of light brown to depth of 1/32nd inch. Place the dark brown clay on top of the light

brown, prick out any air bubbles between the layers of clay, and cut a 1¼ inch (32mm) square. Discard the

excess clay.

Cut a triangle of clay away from one side of the square, leaving an angle along one edge of

the dark brown clay ‐ see diagram

Turn the clay over so the light brown clay is now on top. Roll the clay up on itself starting from the angled

section and finish with the opposite straight edge resting on the tile. Reduce the diameter of the cylinder

to 5/16th inch, by stretching the cylinder not by rolling it; you want to retain the straight edge. Cut away

and discard both distorted ends. Cut a 5/16th inch (8mm) segment from the cylinder. Make a diagonal cut

across the segment so one side is now 3/16th inch long and the other 5/16th inch long and place the

angled piece against the side of the cake near one end.

Cut a 3/16th inch (5mm) slice from the other end of the cylinder and place it flat on the tile. Use the end of

a cocktail stick (toothpick) to very gently depress the light brown clay, so you leave a shallow indention

along the line of the light brown clay. Do this to the slice of “cake” and at one end of the cylinder. Use a

pin to texture the two flat surfaces of the dark brown clay (the end of the cake and the top of the slice).

Hold the pin at a shallow angle to the clay and use the tip to texture the surface, do not gouge holes into

the clay; just gently roughen the surface so it looks like the cut surface of a cake. Avoid distorting the light

brown clay.

Make the chocolate cream filling by mixing a 1/8th inch (3mm) diameter ball of light brown clay with a

small amount of liquid polymer clay to the consistency of double (thick) cream. Place a line of the

“chocolate cream” in the spiral depression in the light brown clay on both the cut end of the cake and on

the slice.


Todds Toys & Mniatures

www.toddtoysandminiatures.com

Text & Photograph © Philippa Todd

Bake the cake and slice for the time and at the temperature recommended for your chosen brand of clay.

Allow the baked cake to cool before proceeding to the next stage.

Bake a 5/8th inch (16mm) diameter ball of dark brown clay and once cool grate it though a fine kitchen

grater, the one used for nutmeg is ideal (do not then use the grater for food use). Mix the resulting powder

with some liquid polymer clay, which has been coloured with a tiny amount of dark brown oil paint, to the

consistency of “butter icing”. Coat all the surfaces of the cake, bar the two textured ones, with the “butter

icing”.

Texture the “butter icing” to resemble bark.

Roll out a very thin layer of dark green clay and cut three holly leaf shapes (cutters are available from Diane

Harfield – www.dianeharfieldminiatures.co.uk). Use a pin to mark the lines of veins in the clay, and gently

curve the leaves to a more natural shape. Position the holly leaves on the cake and add some tiny red balls

of clay for the berries.

Bake the cake for the time and at the temperature recommended for your chosen brand of clay.

If you wish to have a dusting of icing sugar on your cake, carefully sponge a thin coating of white acrylic

paint on the top.


TasselsTassels ©Helena Bleeker 2009 This pattern is for private use only and both the pattern and finished tassels are not to be used for any com‐mercial gain.

Materials used Venne colcoton Creafil 60/2 Red /Gold or Venne Multi‐colour of your choice. Needles size UK 20. (0.9 mm)

Abbreviations K‐knit. P‐purl. Ktbl‐ knit into the back of the stitch. R/S –right side of work. W/S‐ wrong side of work. Sts‐stitches. TheTassels can be used to decorate the Miniature XmasTree, or instead of bows on presents or as curtains tiebacks.

Tassel Cast on 25sts Row 1‐2 knit 2 rows Row 3 R/S k1tbl (p2, k1tbl,) rep, to end Row 4 P1 (k1tbl, k1, p1,) rep, to end Row 5‐14 rep, rows 3‐4 five times, or to your required length. Row 15 k1tbl, (sl next st off needle and let it drop ½ way, p1, k1tbl) rep, to end (17) Row 16 p1 (k1tbl, p1) rep, to end Row 17 k1tbl (p1, k1tbl) Row 18‐30 rep, rows 16‐17 five times Cut thread, leave a long end, with threaded sewing needle, draw up the sts, pull tight and fasten securely, close seam. Insert a small bead or stuff with cotton wool. Wrap thread around the base of the bead, make small loop on top.

Project by ©Helena Bleeker for the AIM Advent Calendar Helena Petite Fashions 22 Civray Ave. Downham Market Norfolk PE38 9NU Web: www.helena‐petitefashions.co.uk Email: [email protected]


For the Inuit people of the far

no r t h , t h i s i n t r i g u i n g

configuration of stones ‐ layered

in the shape of a man or a

woman ‐ once had many

important functions.

Inukshuks served as scarecrows

to stampede caribou herds

toward hunters ‐ or as signposts

pointing to good hunting and

fishing, danger or caches of

food. These messages in stone

once saved lives by marking the

way to shelter and nourishment

in a harsh land.

I talked to an old Inuit a few years

ago and he said that they were

just a way of saying, "I was here"

‐ kind of like our graffiti on rocks

alongside our highways.

Therefore, they can have several

meanings.

Nevertheless, they are a great way

to get a bit of your own area

into your scenes. They make an eye‐catching addition to your mini patio or garden.

The biggest ones are around 6 feet high, but most were usually around 3 – 5 feet – those rocks are heavy to lift

and the Inuit aren’t a very big people LOL. So, make them any size that will be appropriate for your scene. I’m

giving instructions for one made from stone, but they could also be made from Fimo, Paperclay, air‐dry clay,

papier Mache or even wood if you cut it to look like rock.

The plans call for a bit different sizes of rocks, so do what is best for you. There is no wrong or right way.

MATERIALS:

One piece of wood to set the statue on (I used ¼” plywood)

4 pieces of rock for the legs

1 larger rock for the body

1 flat, long piece for the arms

1 round piece for the head

Hammer

Safety glasses

2‐part epoxy glue

Soap, water, scrub brush (an old toothbrush works great)

Sand or fine kitty litter, dried moss or cotton balls (to glue to the base)

INUKSHUK (STONE MAN) By AIM Member Lorrie Of Lorrie’s Green World

PLANS:

1. Cut your wood as big as you will need to stand your stone man on. If you make the edges and shape

irregular, it looks much better.

2. Wearing your safety glasses, break up any of your rocks to get them the right size if they are too big. Do

this inside a clear plastic garbage bag so you don’t get stone chips flying all over.

3. Scrub all the rocks you will be using with soap and water. An old toothbrush makes a good scrub

brush. Rinse and dry thoroughly.

4. Stack all your pieces before gluing to make sure they fit together and that the arrangement looks good.

5. When you are satisfied with the arrangement, disassemble it and start gluing the pieces together,

starting at the bottom, the legs. 2‐part epoxy is the best glue to use, but white glue will work. I have used

Weldbond and had good results. Make sure to use enough glue to hold things together.

Wipe off any excess. Wait for one section to partially dry before going on to the next. If you are using

epoxy, only mix a bit at a time – no sense wasting glue LOL.

6. Depending on what season or setting you want your little stone man to be in, use either sand or fine

kitty litter to make it look like dirt. You can also use a bit of dried moss or something like it – the Arctic is

kind of a greeny‐brown in summer. If you want to make it look like winter, glue a bit of

cotton batting to the base to look like snow.

7. Set your little man in your scene – best to glue him down, as it will be fairly heavy.

8. These are great souvenirs to send you mini buddies, as they will be a small bit of the area in which you

live.

Lorries Green World

Text & Photograph © Lorries Green World

www.minilorrie.2itb.com

Thompson, Manitoba, Canada

Email ‐ [email protected]


Instructions for Christmas box & tissue boxes…

By AIM Member Maia Bisson

Materials: Scissors Glue Ruler X‐Acto knife Tissue for tissue boxes.

1… Print the boxes on the paper of your choice.

2… Score the boxes where they will be folded using the colored tabs as guides, (I like to use a metal ruler and the wrong side of an X‐Acto knife with light pressure to do this).

3… Cut the oval openings of your tissue boxes with an X‐Acto knife.

4… Cut out the boxes. Apply glue to the tabs on the colored side and glue to the inner blank part of the box. Do this one tab at a time, you can press with tweezers or something flat to make sure you have a square finish. The bottom part of the tissue boxes is the last piece to be glued.

5… Add the finishing touches

Tissue boxes: insert your tissues into the oval openings. The boxes are now ready to decorate and add detail to your holiday mini scene!

Christmas box: There are many options for your box; add some tissue paper and leave half open, or add a product to be wrapped, close it and put it under the Christmas tree or wrap a mini for someone special and give it as a present!

I wish you a happy Holiday season and many hours of miniature fun! Maia

Text & Photograph © Maia Bisson

www.maiastwinkleminiatures.com

RUDOLPH THE RED NOSED HOBBY HORSE...

By AIM Member, Julie Campbell

You will need : Scraps of felt in light brown, beige and white 2 cocktail sticks Wood stain or varnish or brown acrylic paint Brown thread Red thread Black seed beads Gold seed beads Red thin ribbon or string Red thin trim 2 small buttons ( optional) Pva glue Superglue ( optional) Small amount of stuffing First snip the point off one end of your cocktail sticks and sand to smooth. Cut a 3cm strip from the other stick and smooth both ends. Now stain, varnish or paint your cocktail sticks and leave to dry. Carefully glue a button on either side of the cocktail stick’s rounded end. I used superglue for this as it gives a fast bond but PVA glue will do the job just as well.

Draw a shapes as shown (above) for the reindeers head, ears and antlers then cut out of white paper. These will be your templates.

Cut two of each piece.

Then cut out smaller pieces of white felt and glue to each ear.

Cut two eye shaped pieces and glue to each head piece making sure you have a left and right side with evenly placed eyes.

Sew a black bead onto each eye.

Now put the head pieces together and using the brown thread over sew all the way round leaving the bottom end open.

Stuff the head fairly firmly and put PVA glue over the end of your cocktail stick

Push the stick up into the reindeers head and carefully over sew the bottom edges to‐gether to give a neat snug join.

Sew an antler on either side of the head . You can use glue if you prefer. Now sew an ear either side of the head in front of the antlers. Again you can glue if pre‐

ferred Use a large darning needle to poke a hole through the reindeers neck behind the cocktail stick Carefully push the small length of cocktail stick through the hole to form a handle bar. Now for Rudolph's red nose ! Using your needle and red thread over sew a nose onto the front of the face. Go over your stitches as many times as you need to create a nice rounded red nose. You could sew on a red bead if preferred . Glue your red trimming round the back of Rudolph's head just


Text & Photograph © Julie Campbell

Glue another piece of trim around his muzzle . Cut a piece of red string or ribbon and glue or sew to the muzzle where the braid joins. Sew on a gold bead over the top to decorate on each side. You now have your own Rudolph the red nosed hobby horse !

Julie Campbell

www.bellabelledolls.co.uk

Christmas Tree Candy Canes...

By AIM Member, Stéphanie Kilgast

Hi everyone! Today I'm going to show you how to make simple Christmas tree candy canes. Caning is a very useful and fun technique and the possibilities are just endless! So I hope that this cane will inspire you to make different ones :)

xx Stéphanie

Materials: ‐ fimo soft: translucent 14, brown 75, blue 37, yellow 16, red 2, carmine 29

‐ fimo classic: white 0 ‐ round toothpick, pin, wood skewer, razor blade

Step 1 Mix following: White Mix: ½ white 0 + ½ translucent 14 Green: 7/9 blue 37 + 1/9 yellow 16 + 1/9 translucent 14 Red: ½ red 2 + ½ translucent 14 Hot Pink: 1/3 carmine 29 + 1/3 white 0 + 1/3 translucent 14 Brown: ½ brown 75 + ½ translucent 14 Note that you will only need half of the green pictured (I mixed too much green :D)

Step 2 Using the green mix (1/2 of what is pictured in step 1) form a simple triangle.

Step 3 Take your wood skewer and make holes in the green tree.

Step 4 Roll the white and the hot pink into snakes of approx. 5 mm (0,2) The snakes should be thin enough to fit

into the tree holes.

Step 5 Put the colored snakes into the tree holes.

Step 6 Take the brown clay and form the trunk.

Step 7 Place the trunk under the tree

Step 8 Put the white mix around the tree making sure it forms a circle. If you don’t have enough white, just mix new one using the same mixture.

Step 9 Roll the red and the hot pink into snakes of approx. 5 mm (0,2)

Step 10 Cut the snakes in pieces that have the same height than your cane. Place the pieces next to each other.

Step 11 Put the little snake pieces around your cane. Be careful not to overlap them nor to leave empty space.

Step 12 Now start to squeeze the cane from every side until you have a cane of approx 1,5 ‐ 2 cm (0,6 – 0,8 inch.)

Step 13 You may start to roll the cane to make it thinner.

Step 14 When the cane is too big for your working place/tile just cut it in two and continue rolling. Check if it’s good looking :)

Step 15 Roll it down to approx 0,4 – 0,5 cm in diameter (0,2 inch.) Bake according to manufacturer’s recommendation. I would suggest to check the exact temperature of your oven.

Step 16 Et voilà! Cute little Christmas tree candy that you may use as it or use as decorations on cakes, gingerbread houses or cookies !

Stephanie

www.petitplat.fr Text & Photograph © Stephanie Kilgast


Cut out Cover and fold down the centreCut out colouring pages in one long stripConcertina pages on the dotted lines (Santa & Sleigh should be back toback)Glue pages togetherStick blank pages to covers

Artisans in MiniatureChristmas Colouring Book

HAPPY CHRISTMAS

A Christmas Colouring Book By AIM Member, Carol Lester

www.thedollshousemall.com

Copyright © Carol Lester


SANTA TEAPOT TUTORIAL...

By AIM Member, Ernesto Baldini

You will need: Polymer clay: black, red, white, beige (or the color you use for skin) and a tiny yellow mixed with white (for the beard and hair) Tile to work on Tools: sharp pointed, blunt pointed and knife

Let’s start by conditioning our clay, that’ll make it easier for us during the work stages…

Roll two balls of black clay

about 0.5 cm diameter,

shape them into a teardrop

and flatten.

They will be our Santa’s

boots. Place them side by

side as shown.

Roll a ball of red clay about

1 cm diameter.

Slightly shape it as an egg

and place it on top of the

boots.

Place a ball of skin color clay

as head.

Roll a long thin snake of

white clay (about 2 mm

wide)

Place it as the fur rim of Santa’s coat. Start at the

back of the head, go around one side to the front, go

down, go back and round the body to the front

again, then up and round the other side of the head

(easier do it than say it)

Use your blunt pointed tool to texture the fur rim.

For the arms (they’ll be the handle and sprout of the teapot), roll two logs about 7 mm long

and 3 mm wide.

Place them on the sides of the body, the one resembling the sprout upwards and the one

resembling the handle downwards. Smooth the seems. Add two balls of skin color clay as

hands, place a fur rim to each sleeve and texture it.

Text & Photographs © Ernesto Baldini

To define the face factions, add a little ball as nose, and

two balls for the ears (all three in skin color). Use your

blunt pointed tool to make an indentation in the ears.

Add two tiny black balls for the eyes.

With your yellow and white mix (kind of cream color),

make three teardrops for the beard and moustaches.

In the picture you can see them as you will place them on

the face.

Once in position, texture them with your knife tool. You

can add hair too if you like it (I did).

Santa’s hat will be the cap. It’s just a cone shape, with the

textured rim all way round and a textured ball at the

point. Curve it a little.

We’re almost done, just need to make our teapot “work”.

To do so, use your sharp pointed tool to open a hole in

the sprout. You don’t need to go too deep.

Bake according clay manufacturer’s directions, and your

teapot is finished. You can give it a glossy finish if you like

so.

Hope you enjoyed it!!!!! Ernesto

www.puntosurminiaturas.jimdo.com

Easy Mince Pies…

By AIM Member, Vicky Guile

You will need... Polymer clay in white, brown, yellow

and translucent Liquid polymer clay Soft artist’s pastels in raw sienna, gold

ochre, burnt umber and white Flat matt acrylic varnish (or a mixture

of a small amount of 75% water + 20% tacky glue)

Three paintbrushes, one for dry brushing with pastels, one for varnishing and one larger and very soft brush for finishing with icing sugar

Cocktail sticks/toothpicks A small ball stylus tool Craft knife Miniature muffin/cupcake

baking tray Ceramic tile for working

and baking on Scraps of paper or card for

mixing pastels on Hairspray

Method… Step 1. Mix a small amount of

white clay with a touch of brown

and yellow clay to make a light pas‐

try colour until the colour is

uniform. Then add and mix in an

equal amount of translucent clay.

Continue to mix and condition until

the clay is off a uniform colour. Roll

into a log approximately 5mm in

diameter and cut into slices

approximately 2.5mm thick (or

thicker or thinner depending on the size and depth of your baking tray). Roll each slice

into a ball and place into one of the cups on the baking tray. Flatten by pressing down

firmly with your fingertip.

Food Tutorial...

Step 2. Indent around the sides of each pie with either your ball stylus tool or toothpick. I’ve done three different styles on my mini pies, so have a play around and see which way you think looks best. Don’t worry if you make a mistake... simply scrunch up the pie and start that one again. When you are happy with the edges of your pies, make one or two small holes in the top of each pie.

Step 3. Step 3. On a scrap of paper or card scribble with your white pastel until you have enough dust to colour the number of mince pies that you are making. Add a touch of raw sienna and gold ochre pastel and mix. You want to achieve pastel ‘dust’ in a shade that resembles the darker parts of baked pastry. Brush this pastel powder around the edges of each pie.

Step 4. On another scrap of paper place a few drops of liquid clay. Makes some ‘dust’ from burnt umber and gold ochre pastels and mix this into the liquid clay. Using the tip of a toothpick and a tiny amount of the coloured liquid clay carefully ‘colour in’ the one or two small holes on the top of each pie. This part does not have to be perfect... just as in real life mince pies, quite often the juice will bubble out during cooking and dribble down the side of the pies. Bake your pies in your baking tray on the ceramic tile in your clay oven as per the instructions on your clay’s packaging. After baking, leave the pies to cool before moving on to the next step. Step 5. With your pies still in the baking tray varnish the top of your first pie very lightly with either the matt varnish or the glue mixture. On a piece of scrap paper scribble with your white pastel to create a fine dust, this dust we will use as icing sugar. Using your large soft brush pick up a good quantity of the pastel dust and with the brush positioned over the top of your first pie, tap the handle so that the dust falls over the pie. Don’t let the brush touch the pie at all. Repeat this step for as many pies as you wish to dust with ‘icing sugar’. Once the varnish or glue mixture has dried seal the ‘icing sugar’ dust with hairspray, hold the hairspray approximately 30cm away from the baking tray and spray liberally. When the hairspray has dried very carefully prise your pies from the baking tray and display as required.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! All text and photos ©2009 Vicky Guile – NJD Miniatures

www.njdminiatures.blogspot.com Artisans In Miniature 56

Baby essentials…

By AIM Member Jeannette Fishwick

BOOTIESBOOTIES Cast on 19 stitches.

Garter stitch 5 rows. (Every row knit)

Next row: K11, K2 tog tbl, (turn)

Row 1: *P 4, P2 tog, (turn)

Row 2: K4, K2 tog tbl, (turn)

Repeat from * until 13 stitches remain and with right side of work facing. Knit to end of row.

Purl 1 row.

Ribbon hole row:

*K 2 tog, yfwd, rep from * to last st, k1.

Knit three rows.

Cast off with size 18 needle if possible or very loosely.

Stitch foot and back seam of bootie and turn inside out and thread ribbon through holes.

KNICKERS:KNICKERS: Cast on 22 sts and rib 4 rows. Change to st st and work another 6 rows.

Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows.

Decrease at each end of every row until 4 sts remain. Work 4 rows on these 4 sts and then increase at

each end of every row until you have 18 sts on the needle.

Cast on 2 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. (22sts)

Work 5 more rows st st and then 4 rows rib. Cast off loosely, preferably with a larger sized needle.

Sew side seams; holes not needed for ribbon just thread it through the ribbing.

Miniature Knitting


BONNET:BONNET: Cast on 25 stitches.

Knit one row.

Pattern:

Work in pattern for 12 rows or to fit your dolls head.

Pattern:

Row 1: K1, * yf, skpo, k1, k2tog, yf, k1; rep from * to end of row.

Row 2: Purl.

Row 3: K2, *yf, sk2togpo, yf, k3; rep from * to last 5 sts, yf, sk2togpo, yf, k2

Row 4: Purl

Decrease rows:

Row 1: Sl 1, K2, K 2 tog.* K3, K2 tog, rep from end of row.

Row 2, 4 & 6: Sl 1, purl to last st. K1.

Row 3: Sl 1, K1, K 2 tog,* K2, k2 tog, rep from * to last 2 sts, K2 tog.

Row 5: Sl 1,K 2 tog, * k1, k 2 tog, rep from * to end of row.

Row 7: K 2 tog to end of the row.

Leaving six‐inch thread break yarn and using a needle thread yarn through stitches and draw up back of

bonnet. Then using the thread left from drawing up the stitches sew up the back of the bonnet on stocking

stitch area. Sew in other loose thread and sew ribbon to corners or thread ribbon through holes from lace

pattern.

Enjoy… Jeannette

Mini Hugs from Jeannette, Fern Tree

Join my Mini Knitting/Crochet List:

http://tinyurl.com/5pymo

See my Miniatures http://www.miniknitting.com

See where I live http://www.ferntree.org.au


Do you want to make that perfect finishing touch for your 1:12th scale

Christmas tree or a simple and attractive table top centre piece?

Then look no further, as Mags Cassidy of Mags-nificent Miniatures

shares this delightfully effective seasonal project.

You will need... White tacky glue

Jewellery findings/filigrees Beads

Tiny seed beads Fine flaked Glitter

I have simply glued onto a’ looped end’ post, small seed beads and a larger bead.

When the glue has dried I then applied a little more to the large bead and dipped it into fine glitter.

The Butterfly makes a beautiful bauble to hang on the tree or to tie to a mini‐gift.

When all the baubles are dry, arrange in a glass bowl.

The one in the photograph is an inexpensive goldfish bowl.

Mags

www.mags‐nificent.co.uk Text & Photographs ©Copyright Mags Cassidy

Christmas Christmas BaublesBaubles Tutorial…Tutorial… By AIM Member, Mags Cassidy

AIM 2010 CalendarAIM 2010 Calendar In miniature…!

By AIM Members, Terry & Anne Dateman

www.datemanbooks.com

Copyright © Dateman Books Artisans In Miniature 60

Swaddled Baby Tutorial By AIM Member Debie Lyons

This tutorial will show you how to sculpt a tiny baby’s face and make a swaddled baby. Before you start it is important to read this tutorial carefully and make sure that your working area and tools are clean. Wear white or pale clothes, wash your hands before you start and make sure that you have baby wipes to hand to regularly clean your hands. Also have pictures of sleeping baby’s faces to hand and look at them regularly while you are sculpting.

Tools and Materials Polymer Clay ‐ I use Sculpey Living

Doll (other clays will work just as well) Sculpting tools – I use a clay shaper, a 3 in 1 tool and various sewing needles. It is fine to

use whatever tools you feel comfortable with or have to hand Knitting needle – to form eye sockets Fine brush Baby oil Cotton thread and needle Finger tubing A little stuffing Fabric of your choice ( 31/2 inch x 3 ½ inch square and a 3 inch x 1 1/12 inch piece.) Genesis paints or Acrylics

Method 1 – Take a piece of clay and form it into a ball approx. 1cm in diameter 2 – take a similar sized piece of clay form it into a sausage shape and attach it onto the bottom of the ball

1 2

3 – Smooth all around the area where the two pieces of clay meet. This will form a long neck and also give something for the fake body to attach to. Slightly flatten the front of the baby’s face area.

4 ‐ Take your knitting needle (or other similar tool) and at

the halfway point of the face area make two indentations

for the eye sockets. Then add a small piece of clay below

these indentations on the middle of the face.

5 ‐ The small piece of clay is your babies nose (Remember

those pictures? Have a look a them now). Smooth around it

carefully till it resembles a nose and use a small needle to

make the nose holes.

6 – Now take two small balls of clay and roll them into little

sausage shapes. Place these in the eye sockets. Smooth

the clay in a downward motion till you can see a sleeping

eye shape forming. Refine the bottom of the lids with a

small needle.

3

4 5

5

5

6

7 ‐ Below the baby’s nose make a

hole and push upwards. This is the

start of the mouth. I have made a

larger one so that the details show

up. In an upward motion pull up

clay from the top edge of the hole to

form the top lip.

7

8 – Take a teardrop shaped piece of clay

and place it on the face as shown.

Smooth all around the joins except the

top part.

9 – Continue smoothing and carefully

push the bottom of the lip in slightly and

work on the bottom part of the baby’s

chin. Now is the time to carefully lift off

any stray hair or dirt that is on the clay

(trust me no matter how careful you

have been there will be at least one bit

of lint LOL). Smooth all over the baby’s

head to remove fingerprints (I use baby

oil and a fine brush). Then bake the head

as instructed on the packet of the clay

that you are using.

Nearly there!

10 – Carefully tint the baby’s face with a

light pink colour and tint the lips. Take

the tubing and cut off about 2 inches.

Sew up one end and put a little stuffing

in. Then insert baby’s head with a little

glue and gather and sew the fake body

in place.

11 – Fold the longer edge of the smaller

piece of fabric over and place it on the

baby’s head. Glue in place.

12 – Take the larger piece of fabric fold it

into a triangle and place on the baby.

Wrap your baby in such a way that no

raw edges of fabric show.

Or wrap your baby in a crochet or knitted shawl and display.

8

9

10


On a final note this tutorial is intended as a guide only, I take no responsibility for the final outcome for different people work in different ways. Practice and enjoy.

Debie Lyons of Piskies & Poppets

www.piskiesandpoppets.com

Text & Photographs © Debie Lyons

11

12

The Miniature...

New AIM Members

We would like to extend a warm welcome to the

following new members who have joined the AIM

Association in the past month:

NEW From

Dateman Books...

AIM is now on...

For any readers that use Facebook, AIM is now there! Just log in as normal and search for Artisans In Miniature.

The AIM Blog is linked to the page too, so anything that appears on the main blog instantly also appears on Facebook.

If you would like to link your blog to the AIM page on Facebook on Networked Blogs, please feel free to do so.

Over the Christmas period alone we have already attracted 91 followers, so if you have a Facebook account, why not come follow us!

The Award Winning...

AIM Advent Calendar

The AIM editorial team are delighted to announce that the AIM Association’s 2009 Advent Calendar was yet another award winner!

Throughout December the AIM advent Calendar has collectively won over 30 prestigious awards from Scribd...

...and as a result, countless projects from the AIM advent calendar were also featured on both the Scribd homepage and in their highly competitive and extensive ‘How To’ charts!

So huge ‘congratulations’ to EVERYONE who was involved with this truly award winning calendar!

Ana Crista Novo Francesca Vernuccio Janet Harmsworth

Viola Williams Cathy McGhee Tracey Topps

NEW

GRAPEVINE

Featured Rising

Dateman Books are pleased to introduce their second Agatha Christie mystery to their range of 20th

century classics. Miss Marple`s "The Body in the Library" joins "Murder on the Orient Express" in miniature for the first time.

These books are produced under license from Agatha Christie Ltd (A Chorian Company) and the original artwork (from the 1942 first edition) used on the cover is by kind permission of Harper Collins.

Each book contains the first chapter of the novel (readable) and is hand bound in black linen with a coloured dust jacket. The books are priced at £7 each (plus p&p) and can be ordered from our web site: www.datemanbooks.com

Buttercup Miniatures Kit Review…

Three of Buttercup Miniature’s 1/12th scale kits have been reviewed in the latest edition of Dolls House and Miniature Scene (February 2010).

www.buttercupminiatures.co.uk Artisans In Miniature 65


Don’t Miss A Thing!

All FREE and fully downloadable at:


Catch the latest news from all around our ‘miniature’ world!

Loads more fantastic quality projects all written exclusively

by AIM members!!!

Written by artisans Enjoyed by miniaturists...!

Please Note: The projects included in this publication are not suitable for children under the age of 14.

The miniatures featured in this magazine are collectors items and therefore unsuitable for children under 14. All projects are undertaken at your own risk. AIM does not accept responsibility for any injury incurred.

All articles and photographs used in this magazine are copyright of their authors.

The AIM magazine’s content is for private use only and it must not be reproduced in part or in full for commercial gain in any form.

Each artisan contributor is responsible for their own work / contribution to the AIM magazine and retain full responsibility for their published work.

The authors/self publishers cannot be held legally responsible for any consequences arising from following instructions, advice or information in this magazine.

COMING nEXT MONTH…


See you again next month…!

Bea (Fiona) Broadwood

Carol Lester

Carol Smith

Debie Lyons

Eileen Sedgwick

Ernesto Baldini

Frances Powell

Helen Woods

Helena Bleeker

Jain Squires

Janine Crocker

Jeannette Fishwick

Julia Jeffreys

Julie Campbell

Julie Kendall

Kathryn Gray

Lorrie (Lorna) Harvey

Mags Cassidy

Maia Bisson

Mary Williams

Philippa Todd

Sally Watson

Sandra Morris

Stéphanie Kilgast

Terry & Anne Dateman

Vicky Guile

This issue would not have been possible without the generous contributions from the following AIM members…

Many thanks therefore go to...

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AIM January 2010 Project Supplement

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