I am deeply thankful to all those who help me to complete my project.

I am thankful to our mentors been the part of my hard work to complete the project.

AKSHAY SHARMA

B.Sc. Fashion technology +

2yrs. Advanced Diploma in Fashion technology

AKNOWLEDGEMENT

What is Collection ?

A collection is a range of garment,

accessories or products that are designed

and produced for sale to retailers or direct to

customer.

This range of pieces may be inspired by a

trend, theme or design direction reflecting

culture and social influence, and it is usually

designed for a season or particular

occasion.

A collection is a grouping of outfits or look

that are presented in a variety of ways , from

catwalk presentations to online webpages.

Collection are usually constructed from a

combination of silhouettes, colours and

fabrics, with emphasis varying depending on

the designer’s particular aesthetic.

Collection & Their Influences

It is possible to group or identify common themes in fashion, those which influence the creative

process in developing a collection, or how we choose to wear cloth. Recurring influence include

traditional costume, active sports, workwear, the military, politics and futurism.

Each new collection can explore a subtle redefinition of these recurring influences through the use

of colour, fabrics, proportion and juxtaposition. Many designers establish successful brands based

on a visual identity that celebrates a particular theme.

CONCEPTUAL INFLUENCE

FORM & FUNCTION

WORKWEAR

SPORTWEAR

FUTURISTIC

GLOBAL

POLITICAL

ARCHIVISM

Conceptual Influence

The origins of contemporary, conceptual fashion may

well be credited to the Japanese designer Rei

Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake.

For decades, these designers have been producing the

most intriguing, provocative fashion by creating new

ways of cutting and construction.

Conceptual collections are often beautiful, timeless and

dislocated from most visual narratives. However, they

can also be too challenging, abstract or unrelenting in

identity, diminishing their influences on fashion trends.

Designers Hussein Chalayan, Helmut jil sander are all

known for a minimalist, exacting aesthetic, which owes

much to the rigours and precision of innovative

architecture and reductive product design.

There is usually little or no decoration to obscure the

essence of the proportion, cut, finish or quality of fabric

used. Beauty derives from the garments’ core

components and construction.

DESIGNERS

Form & Function

Functional garments, such as military wear and expedition

clothing, have long influenced fashion designers. Menswear in

particular continues to reference iconic military garments,

workwear utility clothing, being updated in fabric, colour and

details.

Military clothing has informed fashion partly due to the

performance and ergonomic considerations of the wearer’s

activities and environment, as well as its overall look.

Designers, such as Robert Cary-Williams, whose army

background influenced his earlier collections for colour and

silhouette, specifics such as camouflage have created and

entire fashion agenda, involving recolouration and reapplication

in unexpected contexts.

The outcome may be as simple as Calvin Klein showing a

military-inspired parka worn over a neat, single-breasted suit,

with a shirt and tie.

The safari jackets, the jacket, trench coat, shooting/fishing

jacket, the cargo pants and the biker jackets are all example of

this type of fashion transition.

DESIGNERS

Work Wear

The origin of source and aesthetic is arguably

Levi Strauss, who in the late 1800s created the

first work overalls using twill cotton from Nimes, in

France.

This twill cotton-denim-has since been

popularized by nearly every known designer and

an infinite number of manufacturers across the

world. In music, films, politics, youth culture and

high-end fashion,

Denim is used as a basic upon which unlimited

fashion stories can be created. The cloth’s

traditional construction details can be reworked

with endless possibilities; it is ageless global and

accessible to every social group.

When asked if there was a garment he wished he

had created, Yves saint Laurent answered ‘ the

blue jean’.

BRANDS

Sport Wear

In the early 1980s American designer Norma Kamali launched a fashion

celebrating the use of traditional sweat shirting as a fashion fabric. This

proved successful at a time when exercise and healthier lifestyle were

beginning to dictate a new style of clothing. Kamali recently revisited this

type of fashion by collaborating with Everest in the USA to design an

extensive range of ‘fashion sweats’ for today’s body conscious woman.

The sports world has inspired a number of fabrics and garment

developments specific to athletic performance and associated activities.

The international interest, appeal and support for modern sport has

proven irresistible to designers and producers. Companies have been

swift to collaborate with number of fashion and product designer to raise

consumers awareness of sportswear as a credible lifestyle. fashion

statement

Brand puma has collaborated with designers such as Alexander

McQueen, Fred Perry has worked with Comme des Garcons in

refreshing the iconic sports polo shirt and Adidas has successfully

created Y3 with Yohji Yamammoto, to include full catwalk presentation of

this sportswear and fashion fusion.

DESIGNERS

Futuristic Influence

The US designer Geoffrey Beene is regarded as a futurist , in

late 1990s he decided to no longer use historical reference on

the basis that too many designer over-depended on them,

restricting their development as innovative designer. He was

responsible for redefining modern womenswear as we know

today.

In the 1950s and 1960s French designer Pierre Cardin, along

with his contemporaries Andre Courrages and Paco

Rabanne, designed futuristic, space-age fashion, which

referenced science fiction rather than historical and traditional

sources.

Futuristic fashion can be obvious in its presentation (such as

‘space-age’ clothes) but , more importantly, it is about breaking

new background, taking a fashion in new direction.

For example, Cardin was first couturier to launch a ready-to-

wear line and he was subsequently expelled from Chambre de

Syndicale in Paris.

Gareth Pugh has evolved and refined the futuristic aesthetic

displayed in his graduate collection. His exquisite pieces

combine strong silhouettes and bold colour, which represent

the future of fashion todayDESIGNERS

Global Influence

Since the 1960s international travels has become affordable

and accessible to the majority of the developed world. This has

greatly influenced our knowledge; how we can furnish our

homes; choices in the food we eat; and how we dress.

Ever since Yves Saint Laurent first showed the Moroccan

Jellabh in the 1970s, designers and fashion consumers have

understood the value and attraction of exotic, unusual

garments, Fabrics and Accessories.

Garment such as the Scottish kilt, Indian sari, Chinese

cheongsam and Japanese kimono have been continuously

redefined in fashion collection.

Folklore and ceremony provide a wealth of information that can

inform fabric design-such as tartan, Ikat embroidery, paisley,

prints and jacquards- as well as jewellery, footwear and

accessories.

Two such a examples are kenzo and dries van noten. Kenzo

has championed the multicultural narrative, placing Russian

floral prints

DESIGNERS

Political Influence

Fashion reflect society and designer will often

reference political change in their collections.

Messages through the clothes that we wear

can be subversive or can be a bold statement

to create a reaction.

Katharine Hamnett famously did this when

she invited the slogan T-shirt in the 1980s.

These now iconic T-shirt were basic white

with large, bold black lettering featuring socio-

political messages such as anti war

statements. She intended for her slogan to be

copied and read by people all over the world.

Hamnett has now moved on to the global

problem of ethics in the fashion

manufacturing process, she is one of the

designers responsible for introducing organic

cotton to the masses.

DESIGNERS

Archivism

In a fashion context, Archivism refers to the way in

which designer look back to previous collection for

inspiration. In particular, the original aesthetic of a

well-established label may be revisited decade later,

with collection referencing the same design

influences and detailing.

For example, Italian nobleman Emilio Pucci was

popular throughout the 1960s(and again during

1980s) for his use of wild, colourful patterns taken

from renaissance paintings, filigree, feathers,

animals, stained glass windows and ceramic tiles.

He designed simple belted dresses, bodysuits, boat

neck, tops and pants in silk jersey.

These iconic, bold prints continue to be referenced

today, with creative director such as Matthew

Williamson bringing the label up to date for the

modern consumer.

DESIGNERS

DESIGN DEVELOPMENT

Collection

Collection

Case StudyAs a designer my way of thinking is that the collection should be wearable

or not but that must have a long journey of thought process. I make a

capsule collection. My client is hypothetical. I doesn’t focus on client

because it bound my idea generation, so I came up with the creation

which I feel on Geometry

Research & Development

I start from our college library for research our library that cater for fashion and textile courses, offering a variety of costume history

, craft techniques ,fashion & textile books . Look out to far ,for new and vintage magazine (vogue ,apparel online etc.) and

newspaper clipping . The internet is also a huge resources for research and images. Some designer arrange their inspiration and

research ideas on wall, assembling visual pathway through interesting connection and the juxtaposition of image , fabric sample,

and sketches . Other designer develop research book and sketches book s that reflect the thought process behind the project

from start to finish.

However, a designer choose to work , the most of ingredient remain same : all research should have include fabric , color palette

,texture, patterns, as well as found photos,& some little data.

The subsequent pages as my research book which help me for further design.

Designer are constantly seeking and collecting new ideas and sources

of inspiration. Good designer need enquiring minds in order to

continually produce fresh.

Research is that part which took you on right track and build up your

imagination power to create something new. First of all the designer

would have awareness to her working subject, that what has been

past, what going on ,which come from research designer develop an

identity through the way they collect and process research that should

became second nature over time. Many interesting starting point for

design can be found through the going on investigation every newly

found piece of knowledge feeds the imagination and bring up new

question and pathway to follow.

Inspiration Geometry

As a designer I work on a project for my project the thing which attracted me most is geometry.

Geometry is not only that part shape, size, line, etc. Which we study in childhood. Geometry can

seen around all around us whether it is natural or manmade things. It exist every where.

Geometry derived from Greek word meaning “earth measurement” .It is one of the oldest science.It was first formally organized by the Greek mathematician ECULID around 300 B.C. He came upwith 13 books ,titled” element’. This how ever, was not the first time geometry has been utilized .as a matter of fact, there exists evidence to believe that geometry dates all the3 way back to3000 B.C. In ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt . Egyptian began using their knowledge to constructpyramid with four triangular face and a square base. The things around us all follow the rules ofgeometry, some are visible and some are unseen. during research I study about some interestingparts of geometry.

Sacred geometry involves sacred universal pattern used in the design of every thing in reality.Most often seen in sacred architecture and sacred art. The basic belief is that geometry andmathematical ratio, harmonics & proportion Are also found in music, light, cosmology.

The golden ratio, which is equal to approximately 1.618. it is the ratio of two no. of Fibonacciseries which add upon to give next no. 0,1,1,2,3,5,8,13,34.

Some of greatest mathematical minds of all ages from Pythagoras, Euclid in ancient Greek ,Leonard Fibonacci have spent endless hours over this simple ratio and its properties. Golden ratiofollow from pre historical time period.

• The Parthenon are alleged to exhibit the golden ratio.

• Vitruvius men painting suggest the relationship to the golden ratio.

• The golden ratio is commonly used in every day design ex. Books design, postcard, playing

card, photography & buildings (with proportion) etc.

Inspiration Geometry

Islamic Geometry

Geometric patterns occur in a variety of forms in Islamic artand architecture including kilimcarpets, Persian girihand Moroccan zellige tilework, muqarnas decorativevaulting, jali pierced stone screens, ceramics, leather,stained glass, woodwork, and metalwork.

The earliest geometrical forms in Islamic art wereoccasional isolated geometric shapes such as 8-pointedstars and lozenges containing squares. These date from836 in the Great Mosque of Kairouan, Tunisia, and sincethen have spread all across the Islamic world.

Fractal Geometry

Fractal Geometry is define as a “rough or Fragment

Geometric Shape that can be split into parts, each of

which is (at least Approximately) A reduced –size Copy of

the whole ,”according to their discoverer” Benoit

Mandelbrot ( 20, Nov. 1924 – 14, Oct. 2010)

In plain English this means that something is “self- similar,

"or at least generally liked Zoom in/ out iteration of itself

Jaali workMoroccan zellige or

girih workBenoit Mendelbrot Research

Geometry around us

Concept

CONCEPTUAL INFLUENCE

The origins of contemporary, conceptual fashion may well be credited to the

Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake.

For decades, these designers have been producing the most intriguing,

provocative fashion by creating new ways of cutting and construction.

Conceptual collections are often beautiful, timeless and dislocated from most

visual narratives. However, they can also be too challenging, abstract or

unrelenting in identity, diminishing their influences on fashion trends.

Designers Hussein Chalayan, Helmut. Jil sander are all known for a

minimalist, exacting aesthetic, which owes much to the rigors and precision

of innovative architecture and reductive product design.

There is usually little or no decoration to obscure the essence of the

proportion, cut, finish or quality of fabric used. Beauty derives from the

garments’ core components and construction.

After research I came to that conclusion that geometry were seen all around us whether it is natural or man-made. I also

study about the collection & its influence. I came up with the idea which I feel on geometry with the concept of conceptual

influence.

DESIGNERS

Hussein Chalayan

Issey MiyakeDESIGNER

Yohji YamamotoDESIGNER

Hussein ChalayanDESIGNER

Jean Paul Gultier DESIGNER

Idea Generation

Design #1

Proto -type

MOOD

Pink suggests romance. Pink is white

added to red in varying amount and is

the lightened vale of red. Like red, pink

arouses interest and excitement, but in a

softer, quitter way. To arouses interest

and excitement in my creation I

combined pink with white.

ROMANTIC

Final outfit

Inspiration : Geometry

Concept : Conceptual influence

Technique : Origami

Material : Lycra, Organdy.

While before design I pay attention to

elements and principle of design. I play with

two different texture; one Lycra (smooth) &

another are organdy (rough) and try to

create a romantic look with the help of the

art of origami.

Design #2

MOODTRANQUILITY

White is not merely the absence of colour , but also a hue that

designate purity, innocence, and the class. It is hopeful,

suggesting, goodness and truth. For my sculpture creation I use

white for the purity and ageless.

Final Outfit

Inspiration : Geometry

Concept : Conceptual influence

Material : Lycra,

While for this sculpture creation. I pay

attention to elements and principle of

design. I play with proportion and try

to create new silhouette with 4 way

viscous Lycra.

Design #3

MOODPROFFESIONAL

In the world if business professional , colour is evaluated with scrutiny. In fashion, the

word “professional” has come to mean grey and tonal black because these colors lack

personal characteristics and are truly neutral.

While I use neutral white with black to give professional platform to my creation of

folding art.

Final outfit

Inspiration : Geometry

Concept : Conceptual influence

Technique : paper folding art

Material : blended cotton.

This is a bamboo paper folding art.

Which I use for the upper garment.

The Fabric is blend cotton with a

stripe pattern, it is easy to convey the

way of folding through the stripe

pattern rather than plain color fabric.

Thank you

Akshay SharmaB.Sc. Fashion Technology

With 2yrs advance diploma