Welcome to the Netherlands ............ 2Map .................................. 410 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know ................. 12What’s New ..................... 14If You Like ........................ 15Month by Month ............. 18Itineraries ........................ 21Cycling in the Netherlands .................. 24Travel with Children ....... 32Regions at a Glance ....... 35
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip
UNDERSTAND THE NETHERLANDS
The Netherlands Today ... 252History ............................. 254The Dutch Way of Life .... 265Dutch Art ......................... 270Architecture .................... 277The Dutch Landscape ... 282Dutch Cuisine ................. 287
The Netherlands Today Among the qualities the Netherlands is best known is its famous tol-erance. However this idea of ‘You don’t bother me and I won’t botheryou’ seemed under threat recently. Instead of a broad coalition govern-ment based near the centre of the political spectrum, the Dutch in 2010shifted right. The coalition government formed that year included GeertWilders, leader of the Party for Freedom, a far-right movement with a tough stance on foreigners living in – or immigrating – to the Nether-lands.
During the next two years the government under prime minister Mark Rutte made a number of proposals that were a sharp break from previous Dutch policies. They weakened environmental regulations, slashedarts and culture funding and even passed what was thought to e a neardeath sentence for the country’s coffeeshops (where pot is sold legally).The former y e rock Dutch commitment to the Euro ean Union was
History While the Netherlands seems like a rather placid place now, you’d neguess the high drama of its history. It’s like going into a cinema an hafter the last show: other than a few popcorn boxes laying on the flothere’s little evidence of the spectacles that played out just recently.
Greed, lust and war are prominent in the Dutch story, with doseaction that include pirates and high seas adventure. It’s the story of lamuch invaded, whether by armies on land or water from the sea. Athighs it has produced astonishing art matched only by wretched exce
Yet through it all, a society has emerged that has a core belief in man rights, tolerance and perhaps most surprising given the vicissituof its existence, consensus.
Invaders The first invaders to take note of the locals in today’s Netherlands wthe Romans, who, under Julius Caesar, conquered a wide region alothe Rijn Rhine) and its tributaries by 59 BC. Celtic and Germanic trii iti ll b d t C ’ l d Ut ht b i t
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Art & Icons In the world of art the Netherlands has given us Rembrandt and Van Gogh. Sure, there’s also Frans Hals, Hieronymus Bosch and Piet Mondrian – but when you’ve got the rst two, why mention the rest? (OK that Vermeer guy, he’s big…). Then there are icons: classic windmills, the ultimate green machines that are back in vogue a century after the Dutch used these twirl-ing beasties to pump the country dry. Clogs? Renewable. A ordable. Floatable (if the dykes break). Tulips? The Dutch have made a fortune from little bulbs that go in the ground, then burst forth with beauty that is universally loved.
Big in Size & Spirit The Dutch themselves seem oversized (ac-tually they are statistically the tallest na-tionality on the planet.) Gregariousness, thrift, good sense and wry humour are all national traits, as is no-holds-barred honesty. This is not the country for the neurotic to ask: ‘Do you think I look fat in this?’ (Not that this can be much of a worry in the best place to ride a bike on the planet.)
Essential Amsterdam For Amsterdam – the entire city is also a Dutch icon – current upheavals will merely create more ripples in a city used to waves of change. Misunderstood by
Welcome to the Netherlands
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“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
PAGE
2
PAGE
251GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see
Need to Know
Currency » Euro (€)
Language » Dutch and English
High Season (Jun-Aug)
» Everything is open. » The odds of balmy
weather to enjoy a cafe or a countryside bike ride are best – but not assured.
» Crowds fill the famous museums.
» Prices peak, book ahead.
Shoulder Season (Apr & May, Sep & Oct)
» Most sights open. » Few crowds. » Prices moderate,
only book popular places in Amsterdam
» Weather mixes the good with wet and cold. Bring warm clothes for outdoors.
Low Season (Nov-Mar)
» Many sights outside of major cities closed.
» It may just be you and a masterpiece at a famous museum.
» Weather cold and or wet, biking is only for the hardy.
» Deals abound.
When to Go
#
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#
RotterdamGO Mar–Nov
DeventerGO Apr–Oct
MaastrichtGO Year-round
TexelGO Apr–Oct
AmsterdamGO Year-round
Warm to hot summers, mild wintersWarm to hot summers, cold winters
Your Daily Budget Budget less than
€100 » Dorm bed €22-€35,
private room under €60
» Supermarkets and lunchtime specials for food €15
For this new edition ofNetherlands, our authhunted down the freshtransformed, the hot ahappening. These are our favourites. For upminute recommendatilonelyplanet.com/neth
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam
1 After a 10- year renovation, the na-tion’s premier art trove reopened in its
entirety in 2013, splashing Rembrandts, Vermeers and 7500 other masterpieces over 1.5km of galleries. See p 65 .
Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam
2 Amsterdam’s modern art museum nally popped the top on ‘the Bath-
tub’, its new wing that nearly doubles the space for Monets, Mondrians, glassworks, posters and textiles. See p 66 .
EYE Film Institute, Amsterdam
3 It’s ready for its closeup: the Neth-
Museum Broeker VeilinLangedijk
7 A great example of theand idiosyncratic mus
land: new multimedia displife a region of 15,000 vegewere farmed by boat. See p
Oudeschild, Texel
8 This shing port is a gget a boat tour, visit th
museum or feast on smokegetting a real centre on theSee p 129 .
Fyra
What’s New
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I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -895 -1
9 781741 798951
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Dutch has around 20 million speakers world-wide. As a member of the Germanic language family, Dutch has many similarities with English.
The pronunciation of Dutch is fairly straightforward. It distinguishes between long and short vowels, which can a ect the meaning of words, for example, man (man) and maan (moon). Also note that aw is pro-nounced as in ‘law’, eu as the ‘u’ in ‘nurse’, ew as the ‘ee’ in ‘see’ (with rounded lips), oh as the ‘o’ in ‘note’, öy as the ‘er y’ (without the ‘r’) in ‘her year’, and uh as in ‘ago’.
The consonants are pretty simple to pronounce too. Note that kh is a throaty sound, similar to the ‘ch’ in the Scottish loch, r is trilled and zh is pronounced as the ‘s’ in ‘pleasure’. This said, if you read our coloured pronunciation guides as if they were English,
’ll b d t d j t Th t d
How are you?Hoe gaat het hoo khaat huht met u/jou? (pol/inf) met ew/yawFine. And you?Goed. khoot En met u/jou? (pol/inf) en met ew/yawWhat’s your name?Hoe heet u/je? (pol/inf) hoo heyt ew/yuhMy name is …Ik heet … ik heyt …Do you speak English?Spreekt u Engels? spreykt ew eng·uhlsI don’t understand.Ik begrijp het niet. ik buh·khreyp huht neet
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02-destination-map-net5.indd 402-destination-map-net5.indd 4 8/02/2013 10:57:52 AM8/02/2013 10:57:52 AM
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02-destination-map-net5.indd 502-destination-map-net5.indd 5 8/02/2013 10:57:54 AM8/02/2013 10:57:54 AM
Itiner-aries
Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.
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IJ M E E R
N O R T HS E A
Kinderdijk
Deventer
Middelburg
DenBosch
Delft
Utrecht
Maastricht
Den Haag(The Hague)
Rotterdam
AMSTERDAM
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Three WeeksSouthern Sojourn
Start in Amsterdam, stay three days, visit the city’s big museums and relax in Von-delpark. Discover the Jordaan and the Southern Canal Belt, then take a load off in Hoppe, a grand cafe on the Spui. Plunge into the city’s celebrated nightlife. Escape the city by bicycle to enjoy the classic beauty of the Waterland region.
Continue on as in the one-week tour to Haarlem, Leiden (and Keukenhof Gardens, in season), Den Haag (The Hague) and Rotterdam, but add a day for Delft and its Vermeer splendour. Take the ferry to see the windmills at Kinderdijk, then head for Middelburg, Zeeland’s prosperous capital, and the nearby Delta Project. Take trains through the Neth-erlands’ southern provinces, stopping for the hidden canals of lovely Den Bosch, before continuing to Maastricht, a city with more panache than most; two days should be enough to sample some great cuisine and meander through the medieval centre. Head north to visit Hanseatic Deventer and then head east to the excellent Kröller-Müller Museum. Polish off your trip in the cosmopolitan yet deeply historic city of Utrecht.
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AmelandTerschelling
Vlieland
Texel
GERMANY
Afsluitdijk
N O R T HS E A
WA D D E N Z E E
IJ S S E L M E E R
Marken
MuidenNaarden
Hindeloopen
Zwolle
Leeuwarden
Den Helder
Alkmaar
Enkhuizen
Edam
AMSTERDAM
Harlingen
Waterland
LauwersoogHolwerd
Schiermonnikoog
#f
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Oosterend
Nes
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Island EscapesCircumnavigatingthe IJsselmeer
Two WeeksThe IJsselmeer
A practical place to start this tour is Amsterdam; three days will whiz by in a blur of museums, parks, ca-nal tours and nightlife. Head north
along the IJsselmeer coast through the Wa-terland region to the tiny fishing village of Marken. Cycle the dykes to cute-as-a-button Edam. Stay overnight before reach-ing Alkmaar early to experience its kitsch but fun cheese market, then wander through Enkhuizen’s enthralling Zuiderzeemu-seum.
Next, catch a bus to Den Helder, and a ferry to Texel. Spend two days (or two weeks…) dividing your time between beach and bike exploration, then take another fer-ry to Vlieland to appreciate the wilder side of the Frisian Islands. From Vlieland, get a ferry to charming Harlingen, from where Leeuwarden is only a short train ride away. Friesland’s capital is an entertaining place, as is the nearby chain of coastal towns high-lighted by Hindeloopen on the IJsselmeer.
Break the train trip at Hanseatic Zwolle and add more stops in Naarden and Mui-den, two historical fortress towns.
One to Two WeeksIsland Escapes
The necklace of low-lying Wadden Islands (Texel, Vlieland, Terschelling, Ameland and Schiermonnikoog) is recognised by Unesco and makes for
good island-hopping. Some ferry links re-quire advance planning; you might be able to link all five by boat but for most there will be connections via the mainland. From Am-sterdam, head to Texel. Bike along the is-land’s western coast from sleepy Den Hoo-rn through dark copses to the Ecomare seal and bird refuge. Comb the eastern side of the island, visiting the superb Maritime & Beachcombers Museum in Oudeschild.
From De Cocksdorp at the northern end of Texel, board the morning ferry to car-free Vlieland to explore its nature and hiking trails before catching the boat to Terschell-ing, Friesland’s main tourist island. Hole up in peaceful Oosterend and cycle the un-touched dunes, then hightail it by ferry to Harlingen, a pretty little port on the Frisian coast, and on to Holwerd, to ferry across to somnolent Ameland. Stay in the whaling port of Nes. Return via the ports of Hol-werd and Lauwersoog and back on a ferry to Schiermonnikoog, the smallest of the Frisian Islands and featuring a windswept, evocative national park.
22
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Dordrecht
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Den Haag(The Hague)
Rotterdam Kinderdijk
Haarlem
Keukenhof Gardens
Leiden
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Eastern ExperienceThe Lay of the Lowlands
One WeekEastern Experience
The Netherlands’ eastern expanse is largely ignored by tourists, but there is myriad highlights to discover.
Begin your trip in Groningen, a vibrant city filled with students, bars, cafes and a couple of fine museums. Cycle south-east to Bourtange, a perfectly preserved 17th-century fortified town, before moving on to Borger and its prehistoric hunebed-den, stone arrangements once used as burial chambers. Cycle through the woods to Kamp Westerbork and encounter its moving, horrible heritage. Catch a train to Zwolle, an unhurried Hanseatic town that’s ideal for backstreet meanders. A trip through nearby Weerribben-Wieden Na-tional Park should include renting a canoe.
From Zwolle it’s only a short train ride to Deventer, one of the most appealing small towns in the Netherlands. Next, explore the Hoge Veluwe National Park, a natural oa-sis that’s home to a renowned art museum. Then head for Den Bosch, which has a dy-namite museum dedicated to its namesake artist. Breda is your next stop, where you can enjoy the city’s cafe-filled centre. Go back to nature at Biesbosch National Park before finishing up on the lovely old streets and canals of Dordrecht.
One WeekThe Lay of the Lowlands
Begin in Amsterdam. Visit the Van Gogh Museum and the Rijksmuse-um and rent a bicycle to explore the pretty neighbourhood of Jordaan.
On the second day board a canal boat tour and walk the Red Light District before hit-ting a brown cafe or coffeeshop. Or both.
Head west to the town of Haarlem – stroll the compact old quarter, and view the masterpieces at the Frans Hals Museum and the stained glass of the Grote Kerk van St Bavo. In tulip season (mid-March to mid-May) witness the unbelievable col-ours of the Keukenhof Gardens, north of Leiden. Then spend a day among Leiden’s old-world splendour. Next, take a day in Den Haag (The Hague), being sure not to miss the Mauritshuis collection, with five-star works from everyone from Vermeer to Warhol.
In the remaining time take a harbour boat tour in Rotterdam and visit the Mu-seum Boijmans van Beuningen and the Maritiem Museum Rotterdam. The next morning, do a walking tour of the city’s modern architecture before departing for Kinderdijk and its gaggle of Unesco-recog-nised windmills.
23PLAN
YOUR TRIP IT
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OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Ryan Ver BerkmoesCoordinating Author; all chapters except AmsterdamRyan worked on the fi rst edition of Lonely Planet’s The Netherlands, a country where they pronounce his name better than he can, possibly because his ancestors are lurking about there somewhere. Ryan is thrilled to see it continues to be the same charming, amusing, idiosyncratic place. He travels the world writing about great places to visit. Learn more at ryanverberkmoes.com or on
Twitter: @ryanvb.
Karla ZimmermanAmsterdam During her Amsterdam travels, Karla admired art, bicycled crash-free, ate an embarrassing quantity of frites and bent over to take her jenever like a local. She has been visiting Amsterdam since 1989, decades that have seen her trade space cakes for stroopwafels, to a much more pleasant eff ect. She never tires of the city’s bobbing houseboats, cling clinging bike bells and canal houses tilting
at impossible angles. Based in Chicago, Karla writes travel features for newspapers, books, maga-zines and websites. She has written several Lonely Planet guidebooks covering the USA, Canada, Caribbean and Europe.
Read more about Ryan at: lonelyplanet.com/members/ryanverberkmoes
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Read more about Ryan at: lonelyplanet.com/members/karlazimmerman.
![296 INDEX [media.lonelyplanet.com]](https://static.documents.pub/doc/80x56/616ffcde95080620127c9625/296-index-media-.jpg)
