13

On the Road 4

Central Asia Highlights 5

Destination 17

Getting Started 19

Itineraries 25

History 34

People 62

Religion 71

Arts 76

Food & Drink 85

Environment 95

Activities 104

Kazakhstan 116Highlights 117Itineraries 117Climate & When to Go 117History 117Current Events 121People 122Religion 123Arts 123Environment 124Food & Drink 125ALMATY 126History 126Orientation 127Information 127Dangers & Annoyances 131

Sights 131Activities 133Almaty Walking Tour 133Festivals & Events 134Sleeping 134Eating 136Drinking 137Entertainment 138Shopping 139Getting There & Away 140Getting Around 141Around Almaty 142SOUTHEAST KAZAKHSTAN 146Kolsay Lakes 146Charyn Canyon 147Karkara Valley 147Central Tian Shan 148Tamgaly Petroglyphs 148Altyn-Emel National Park 148Lake Balkhash 149SOUTHERN KAZAKHSTAN 149Taraz 149Around Taraz 151Shymkent 151Around Shymkent 154Turkistan 157Sauran 159Kyzylorda 159Aralsk (Aral) 161WESTERN KAZAKHSTAN 162Aktobe 163Uralsk (Oral) 165Atyrau 165Aktau 167Around Aktau 170NORTHERN KAZAKHSTAN 171Astana 172Around Astana 179Lake Burabay 180Kokshetau 181Petropavlovsk (Petropavl) 182Karaganda (Karagandy) 183Around Karaganda 185EASTERN KAZAKHSTAN 185Ust-Kamenogorsk (Oskemen) 185Altay Mountains 188Semey (Semipalatinsk) 189Around Semey 192

Contents© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

14 C O N T E N T S

Sights 302Activities 304Courses 304Tours 304Festivals & Events 305Sleeping 305Eating 307Drinking 308Entertainment 308Shopping 309Getting There & Away 309Getting Around 311LAKE ISSYK-KÖL & THE CENTRAL TIAN SHAN 315Tamchy 316Cholpon-Ata 316Grigorievka & the Ak-Suu Valley 318Karkara Valley 319Karakol 320Around Karakol 325Barskoön & Tamga 330Kadji-Sai 331Bokonbayevo 332Around Bokonbayevo & Kadji-Sai 333The Central Tian Shan 333CENTRAL KYRGYZSTAN 335Bishkek to Naryn 335Karakol to Naryn 335Kochkor 335Around Kochkor 339Lake Song-Köl 339Naryn 340Around Naryn 342Naryn to Jalal-Abad 343Naryn to Torugart 345Torugart Pass 346BISHKEK TO OSH & THE KYRGYZ FERGANA VALLEY 348Bishkek to Tashkömür 348Lake Sary-Chelek 351Arslanbob 352Jalal-Abad 354Özgön 355Around Özgön 356Osh 356Osh to Irkeshtam 361Alay Valley 361Southwestern Kyrgyzstan 363KYRGYZSTAN DIRECTORY 364Accommodation 364Activities 364Customs Regulations 365Dangers & Annoyances 365

Around Fergana 238Andijon 239CENTRAL UZBEKISTAN 240Samarkand 240Around Samarkand 250Shakhrisabz 251Termiz 253Nurata 256Bukhara 257Around Bukhara 268KHOREZM 268Urgench 268Around Urgench 270Khiva 270KARAKALPAKSTAN 276Nukus 276Around Nukus 280Moynaq 280UZBEKISTAN DIRECTORY 281Accommodation 281Activities 281Dangers & Annoyances 282Embassies & Consulates 282Festivals & Events 283Holidays 283Internet Access 283Internet Resources 283Money 283Post 285Registration 285Telephone 285Travel Permits 286Visas 286TRANSPORT IN UZBEKISTAN 286Getting There & Away 286Getting Around 288

Kyrgyzstan 290Highlights 291Itineraries 291

Climate & When to Go 291History 291Current Events 295People 295Religion 296Arts 296Environment 296Food & Drink 298BISHKEK 298History 298Orientation 299Information 299Dangers & Annoyances 302

Pavlodar 192KAZAKHSTAN DIRECTORY 192Accommodation 192Activities 193Customs 193Dangers & Annoyances 193Embassies & Consulates 193Festivals & Events 195Holidays 196Internet Access 196Internet Resources 196Maps 196Money 196Post 196Registration 196Telephone 197Travel Permits 198Visas 198Volunteering 199TRANSPORT IN KAZAKHSTAN 199Getting There & Away 199Getting Around 202

Uzbekistan 203Highlights 204Itineraries 204Climate & When to Go 204History 206Current Events 208People 209Religion 210Arts 210Environment 210Food & Drink 211TASHKENT 212History 212Orientation 213Information 213Dangers & Annoyances 218Sights 218Activities 220Tours 221Sleeping 221Eating 222Drinking 224Entertainment 225Shopping 226Getting There & Away 227Getting Around 228Around Tashkent 230FERGANA VALLEY 232Kokand 232Fergana 236

C O N T E N T S 15

Gozli Ata & Yangykala Canyon 445Turkmenbashi 446EASTERN TURKMENISTAN 448Mary 448Merv 451Gonur 453Tagtabazar 454Turkmenabat 454Dayahattin Caravanserai 456Kugitang Nature Reserve 456NORTHERN TURKMENISTAN 457Konye-Urgench 457Dashogus 459TURKMENISTAN DIRECTORY 460Accommodation 460Activities 461Customs Regulations 461Dangers & Annoyances 461Embassies & Consulates 461Gay & Lesbian Travellers 462Holidays 462Internet Access 463Internet Resources 463Money 463Post 464Registration 464Telephone 464Travel Permits 464Visas 465TRANSPORT IN TURKMENISTAN 466Getting There & Away 466Getting Around 467

Afghanistan 468Highlights 469Itineraries 469Climate & When to Go 469History 469People 473Religion 474Arts 474Environment 476Food & Drink 476KABUL 476History 477Orientation 477Information 477Sights 479Sleeping 480Eating 480

TAJIKISTAN DIRECTORY 416Accommodation 416Activities 416Dangers & Annoyances 417Embassies & Consulates 417Festivals & Events 418Holidays 418Internet Access 418Internet Resources 418Maps 418Money 419Registration 419Telephone 419Travel Permits 420Visas 420TRANSPORT IN TAJIKISTAN 421Getting There & Away 421Getting Around 422

Turkmenistan 424Highlights 425Itineraries 425Climate & When to Go 425History 425Current Events 428People 428Religion 429Arts 429Environment 429Food & Drink 430ASHGABAT 430Orientation 431Information 431Dangers & Annoyances 433Sights 433Activities 436Sleeping 436Eating 438Drinking 439Entertainment 439Shopping 439Getting There & Away 440Getting Around 441Around Ashgabat 441KARAKUM DESERT 442WESTERN TURKMENISTAN 442Köw Ata Underground Lake 443Nokhur 443Parau Bibi 443Balkanabat 444Dekhistan 445

Embassies & Consulates 365Festivals & Events 367Holidays 368Internet Resources 368Maps 368Money 368Post 369Registration 369Shopping 369Telephone 369Visas 369TRANSPORT IN KYRGYZSTAN 370Getting There & Away 370Getting Around 371

Tajikistan 372Highlights 373Itineraries 373Climate & When to Go 373History 373Current Events 377People 378Religion 379Arts 379Environment 379Food & Drink 380DUSHANBE 381History 381Orientation 381Information 382Sights 382Activities 385Sleeping 385Eating 386Entertainment 387Shopping 388Getting There & Away 388Getting Around 389Around Dushanbe 389NORTHERN TAJIKISTAN 390Khojand 390Istaravshan 393Penjikent 393Fan Mountains 396Zerafshan & Yagnob Valleys 398THE PAMIRS 399Dushanbe to Khorog 403Khorog 404Bartang Valley 407Shokh Dara Valley 408Wakhan Valley 409Pamir Highway 411

16 C O N T E N T S

Transport in Central Asia 515

Health 530

Language 537

Glossary 544

The Authors 548

Behind the Scenes 550

Index 553

Greendex 563

Legend 564

Accommodation 490Activities 490Business Hours 490Dangers & Annoyances 490Embassies & Consulates 490Festivals & Events 491Holidays 491Insurance 492Internet Access 492Internet Resources 492Maps 492Money 492Post 492Shopping 492Telephone 492Travel Permits 493Visas 493Women Travellers 493TRANSPORT IN AFGHANISTAN 493Getting There & Away 493Getting Around 495

Central Asia Directory 496

Getting There & Away 481Getting Around 481CENTRAL AFGHANISTAN 481Bamiyan 481Band-e Amir 483The Minaret of Jam 483WESTERN AFGHANISTAN 483Herat 483NORTHERN AFGHANISTAN 486Mazar-e Sharif 486Balkh 487Kunduz 487Faizabad 487Ishkashim 488Wakhan & the Afghan Pamir 488EASTERN AFGHANISTAN 489Jalalabad 489Torkham 489SOUTHERN AFGHANISTAN 490Ghazni 490Kandahar 490AFGHANISTAN DIRECTORY 490

p292

p374

p470

p426

p205

p118

KYRGYZSTAN

TAJIKISTAN

AFGHANISTAN

KAZAKHSTAN

TURKMENISTAN

UZBEKISTAN

Regional Map Contents

The Gulf

Karakalpakstan

Darvaza

Kurgan

Kostanai

Rudny

Orsk

Chelyabinsk

Arkalyk

Aralsk

Kyzylorda

Moynaq

Turkistan

Zhezkaghan

Ufa

Orenburg

Samara

Togliatti

Uralsk

Penza

Saratov

Ulyanovsk

Atyrau

Beyneu

Astrakhan

Aktau

Zhanaozen

VolgogradAktobe

Kungrad

Zeravshan

Uchkuduk

Samarkand

Karshi

Navoi

Urgench

Khiva

Bukhara

Turkmenabat

ShiberghanBalkh

MervMary

Islam

Saraghs

Termiz

Jizzakh

Bamiyan

Mazar-eSharif

Spin Boldak

Herat

Lashkar Gah

Quetta

Kandahar

Qala

Konye-Urgench

Turkmenbashi

Balkanabat

Gaudan

BAKU

TEHRÃN

Ešfahãn

Zãhedãn

Mashhad

ASHGABAT

Dashogus

Nukus

and may not be correcton this map have not been authenticated

The external boundaries of India and Pakistan

DA

GN

EP

O

TUN

TA

I

S

K

MO

SeaAral

North

AralSea

South

Lake

LakesBand-e Amir

Aidarkul

SarykamishLake

S E A

C A S P I A N

K y z y l k u m D e s e r t

UstyurtPlateau

K a r a k u m D e s e r t

Rive

r

Riv

er

Tob

ol

Ishi

m

Riv

er

Volga

Rive

r

Ura

l

Darya

Amu-

River

Farah

Helamand

Riv

er

Syr-Darya

R U S S I A

K A Z A K H S T A N

U Z B E K I S T A N

A F G H A N I S T A N

AZERBAIJAN

I R A N

T U R K M E N I S T A N

of JamMinaret

Badai-TugaiNature Reserve

M36

M36

M32

M5

M5

M6

M36 M39

M37

by Chinggis (Genghis) Khanbones of the past left standingTantalising architectural ruins –KONYE-URGENCH (p457)

MANGISTAU (p170)

KHIVA (p270)

Historic old town bursting with IslamicBUKHARA (p257)

frozen in time in the desertat this former slave-trading emirateMosques, minarets and medressas

and spectacular rock formationsand wandering camels amid deserts

Underground mosques, ancient necropolises

and the former citadel of the emir

Shahr-i-Zinda, in Tamerlane's capital

Central Asia's most audacious Islamic

Bizarre buildings, eccentric

Asia's most interesting marketTolkuchka Bazaar, possibly Central

ASHGABAT (p430)

monuments, the Registan and

SAMARKAND (p240)

monuments and carpet shopping at the

and bazaars

HERAT (p483)

BAMIYAN (p481) &BAND-E AMIR (p483)

giant Buddhas in this serene valley,plus jewel-like mineral lakes

Amazing ruins of the destroyed

Cultured former Timurid capitalwith exceptional architecture

Blue-hued tilework ofAfghanistan's holiest shrine

and bazaars

MAZAR-E SHARIF (p486)

monuments, fascinating backstreets

Badakhshan

Nuristan

Altay

Jeminay

Ürümqi

Luntai

Ust-KamenogorskSemey

Omsk

Pavlodar

Petropavlovsk

Kökshetau

ASTANA

Maykapshagay

Dostyk

Ayaguz

Aktogay

Georgievka

Yining

Kucha

Khorgos

Taldykorgan

Karakol

Almaty

Balkash

Karaghanda

BISHKEKTaraz

Naryn

Yarkand

Khotan

Andijon

Jalal-Abad

IrkeshtamFergana

Osh

Kyzyl-Kul

Angren

Guliston

Khojand

Kokand

Namangan

Margilan

Khorog

Ishkashim

Tyube

Faizabad

Kulyab

DUSHANBE

Taloqan

KABUL

Kunduz

Kashgar

Gilgit

Rawalpindi

Torkham

Ghazni

Jalalabad

ISLAMABAD

Kurgan-

TASHKENT

TalasShymkent

(4506m)Belukha

ALTAY

(7010m)

(7439m)Pobedy

Khan Tengri

MOUNTAINS

NAS H

NA

HS

AN

IT

(7719m)Kongur

ULNK U

PassKhunjerab

RO

K

RA

K

A

A

FAN

SRIMP A

SUKKhawak

PassUDNI

H

H

T H E

(4762)Qolma Pass

(7495 m)Koh-i-Somoni

PassTorugart

Pass

MKhyber

N

MOUNTAINS

LakeZaysan

Lake

TengizLake

BalkashLake

Fedchenko

Sary-ChelekLake

Glacier

Issyk-Köl

D e s e r t

M u y u n k u m

Wakhan Corridor

ValleyPanjshir

Ulunqur River

RiverTarim

Ob River

Irtysh

River

Ili

RiverShu

River

River

Yarkand

River

Pyan

j

Riverul R

iver

Ind us

Kab

M O N G O L I A

C H I N A

R U S S I A

T i b e t

T A J I K I S T A N

K Y R G Y Z S T A N

I N D I A

P A K I S T A N

N E P A L

ParkNationalBurabay

National ParkAltyn-Emel

Ile-AlatauNational Park

Nature ReserveKogalzhyn

National ParkSayram Ugam Nature Reserve

Aksu-Zhabagyly

LEGEND

Unsealed RoadTertiary RoadSecondary RoadPrimary RoadFreeway

300 km180 miles

00

ELEVATION

7000m5000m3000m1000m500m200m0m

M51

M38

M36

M39

oram

Hwy

Kar

ak

an hour outside the citywith fine mountain scenery just

Booming, cosmopolitan city, ALMATY (p126)

INYLCHEK GLACIER (p334)A long trek or short helicopter flight to

one of the world's most beautiful peaksoutrageous views of Khan Tengri,

on the high pasturesand live the nomad life

KOCHKOR (p335) &SONG-KÖL (p339)

Hire horses, stay in yurtsbooming new capital

ASTANA (p172)

architecture in Kazakhstan'sSpectacular 21st-century

IRKESHTAM PASS (p362)TORUGART PASS (p346) &

AROUND KARAKOL (p325)Lovely alpine scenery, mountain

pastures and fine trekkinhg a stone'sthrow from Lake Issyk-Köl

routes into Central AsiaThe most exciting mountain

PAMIR HIGHWAY (p411)

by Afghanistan and Tajikistanthis spectacular valley shared

and views of the Hindu Kush in Silk Road forts, high altitude treks

WAKHAN VALLEY (p488)

turquoise mountain lakesGreat trekking past a string ofFAN MOUNTAINS (p396)

past sublime high-altitude sceneryOne of the world's classic road trips,

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