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SCENE By Mary Newport [email protected] My first impression on walking into Ember Grille & Wine Bar was darkness. I moved from the bright lights of L’Auberge into a soft twi- light of low leather couches and plush chairs, punctuated by flickering red candles. The brightest point in the room was a peak of bottles behind the bar, tiered ranks lit from below like a Mount Olympus of liquor. Piano music flowed through the room, mingling with the soft chatter of guests. This was Ember’s Social Hour, a newly launched din- ing event featuring a rotating menu of seven small-plate items. From 5:30 to 7 p.m. Sun- day to Friday, each item is $7. Also on the menu are specially chosen wines and a signature cocktail, likewise $7 apiece. The menu items range from enticing, like the Kobe French Dip, to puzzling, like Candied Bacon. Cognizant of my noble reviewing mission, I deter- mined to try them all. Let the record show that I fully intend to live forever, but if I have to go, trying to manage seven courses is my preferred method. The flood began with an enticing basket of fresh bread, accompanied by a small bowl of creamy butter. I refrained from filling up on bread, but it was a difficult undertaking. I’m a sucker for hot buns, and the soft white bread, cheese- topped roll and sturdy multi- grain demanded appreciation. Then the dishes started rolling in. Three waiters brought out plate after plate, eventually pulling up a second table to hold it all. By the time it was over, I was in anticipatory heaven … and my bread was another country. The first dish I tested was the Ahi Tuna Tacos, tiny won- ton-style taco shells filled with seaweed salad and a morsel of pink tuna. The tacos were a crisp, crunchy mouthful, and the zesty seaweed mingled delightfully with the lightly seared tuna. The combination made for a stimulating snack. I was sold, but I couldn’t linger. I resolved to return for more tacos later, and rotated my selections. The BBQ Chicken Satay combined the best of fine dining and backyard grill- ing. Pieces of chicken were marinated, skewered, grilled to juicy perfection and drizzled with a tangy sauce. The sight of well-grilled chicken ar- ranged with artistic precision is one to make the heart sigh. The smell causes the mouth to water. The taste produces a variety of sensations, the most common being an appreciative “mmm.” The Crab Arancini was a demonstration of the sort of Italian cuisine any Cajun can get behind. Ember’s aran- cini — balls of rice coated in breadcrumbs and fried — were stuffed with sweet crab meat. The outer crust was thin and crisp, giving way to a moist, yielding center of delicious crab. The three balls came stacked in a bowl of tomato sauce, a thoroughly appropri- ate setting. I approved highly of the arancini, but I once again rotated plates. This is where things got serious. The dishes heretofore mentioned were pleasant, well worth eating and enjoying, but the next set were vicious competitors for the title of favorite. Sauces enticed me, spices beguiled me, tender cuts of meat tested my resolve to only take a bite of everything. It was culinary warfare and all bets were off. The Kobe French Dip, which came highly recom- mended by my waiter, made a strong leading bid with in- timidation tactics. In contrast to the lighter plates, it was a meal unto itself, an imposing sandwich of toasted bread piled high with solid cuts of beef. The warm brown bowl of au jus twinkled invitingly. A bite yielded the savor of thick- sliced meat enhanced by rich juice and the warm support of crisp bread. It was torture to only take one bite … so I took three. Purely for quality assur- ance purposes, of course. The Prime Beef Tartare was a revelation. It gleamed softly in the low light, a column of finely chopped raw beef topped with an egg and partnered with crisp crostini. Despite being visually unassum- ing, it was boldly spiced and captivatingly flavorful. After much consideration, it smugly nudged out the Kobe French Dip and took pride of place. And then there was bacon. I admit I was initially unen- thused by the dish — much as I adore bacon, the last few years have been something of a baconpocalypse. I have stolidly weathered every permutation of the craze, and I still shud- der with disgust at the awful memory of chocolate bacon. When my Candied Bacon ar- rived, I expected it to be more of the same, another attempt to combine what should not be combined and candy-coat what should not be candy-coated. Never have I been so wrong. The Candied Bacon came in what can best be described as a short vase, accompanied by a similar arrangement of pickled cucumbers (not to be confused with pickles). A vase full of bacon, glistening softly in the candlelight … is there anything more romantic? The bacon was covered in a sweet glaze that did something miraculous to its inherent meatiness, creating a harmony of sugar-touched pork that lit up the tongue like a beam of divine light. It was bacon in its highest form, bacon transcen- dent, the thing that happens to the very best pigs if they live a good life and love their neigh- bors as themselves. When the ecstasy became too much, the vinegary crunch of the cucum- ber wiped the sweetness from my tongue and prepared me to indulge once more. It seemed that nothing could surpass the raptures of Candied Bacon, but there was one dish that exceed even it. How do I begin to explain the Beef Satay? Beef Satay is flawless. It has adorable skew- ers and a rich, robust flavor. I hear the sauce is a chef secret. I can’t work any more “Mean Girls” references in here, but trust me, the Beef Satay is the Regina George of Ember. For those of you who lost me on that one, let me clarify: The Beef Satay was grilled skewers of tender beef in an Asian- inspired marinade, drizzled in a delightful sauce and served with justifiable pride. The meat was lean and succulent, aromatic and savory, juicy and rich. It was by far the most ex- cellent in a field of superlative dishes, and as soon as I had tasted everything, I devoured it. Overall, the food was out- standing, and the setting was equal to the task. The restau- rant itself was opulent and comfortable. The wait staff were commendably attentive to every possible desire. My glass was never empty nor in danger of being so; my requests were met swiftly and politely; and no sooner was a plate empty than it was whisked away. I did consider that I might be get- ting special attention — I am adorable, and my natural love of people who bring me food has entranced many a server — but as far as I could tell from surreptitious observation, everyone in the restaurant received equal attention. The dispatching of the leftovers was equally excellent. After a short powder room break, I returned to find six identical carry-out boxes (as I said, I devoured all of the beef, and I have no shame). In the spirit of L’Auberge, I’ve been using them to play Leftover Roulette. The rules are simple: 1) Become hungry. 2) Select an anonymous box for your meal. 3) Know that whatever is inside is bound to be delicious, as everything at Ember is. Ember’s small-plate menu is a big deal Located inside L’Auberge Sunday-Thursday • Piano Lounge: 5:30-11 p.m. • Grille Dinner Service: 6-10 p.m. Friday • Piano Lounge: 5:30 p.m.-midnight • Grille Dinner Service: 6-11 p.m. Saturday • Piano Lounge: 5:30 p.m.-midnight • Grille Dinner Service: 5:30-11 p.m. GRILLE & WINE BAR B2 AMERICAN PRESS THURSDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2015 C uisine SCENE To feature your business on this page contact: Jessika Sarver 337-494-4047 or [email protected] Over 45 Scotches One of the largest Scotch Selections in the area Pub Trivia Games Tuesday Nights Monday-Saturday 11:00 a.m. - Till Closed Sunday Happy Hour Mon-Sat 2-6 417 Ann Street • (337) 433-5992 LARGE BREW MENU M-TH 11AM til 10pm • F-SAT 11AM til Midnight Closed Sunday • Buffet 11AM til 1PM M-F • 337.419.1931 329 Broad Street TH 11AM til 10pm • F S S S SAT 11AM til Midnig 345 Broad St. • 337-656-2798 M-F 10:30AM-3PM SAT Closed SUN 10:30AM-3PM 00933479 8am -12 noon New Vendors Always Welcome 337-309-1389 • Cold Pressed Organic Juice • Grass Fed Beef, Lamb and Pork • Okra • Squash • Kale • Mustard Greens • Turnips • Cucumbers • Tomatoes • Assortment of Breads • Sweet Dough Pies • Baked Goods • Pralines • Peanut Brittle • Eggs • Brown Jasmine Rice • Local LA Honey • Jelly/Jam • Fig Preserves • Pickled Items • Homemade Soap • Plants • Jewelry • Variety of Woodworks Like us on facebook 1911 Historical City Hall On Bilbo St., Lake Charles If It Rains Look For Us Inside City Hall 2nd Market Open Every Thursday 3PM-6PM University Park Recreation Building 1001 Central Parkway VENDORS INSIDE It’s Time To Get Down... Mon.-Sat. 11:00 a.m. - 10:00 p.m. Great Food, Drinks and Live Music! EAT LOCAL ow wn s T Tim me e T o o G Ge et t D Do o Sat Great F DOWNTOWN ★ 719 Ryan Street ★ 337-494-5862 ★
