164 GRAND JULY I AUGUST 2016 WINE W Niagara wines score top marks for this judge Michael Pinkus And the gold medal goes to ... W ith the Olympics in Rio de Janeiro playing out this summer, it’s time to identify an array of reds and whites, both domestic and imported, worthy of gold medals. Domestic Gold I’m giving out five gold medals, all in Niagara, and two to one winery. Hey, someone always dominates the Games. Be it Michael Phelps or Mark Spitz, an athlete comes along that sparks our imagination, and the same can be said in the wine world. There are wineries that come along and dominate one grape, such as Creekside with Syrah, or dominate a lot of grapes, such as Trius Winery at Hillebrand, which is where we will kick off the awards. Trius 2013 Showcase Wild Ferment Chardonnay ($36.20 at the winery). I may not be the biggest fan of Chardonnay, but that doesn’t mean I don’t recognize greatness when I taste it. Vanilla, coconut, lemon drop, buttery caramel, almond pralines — and that’s just for starters. The linger is long and you’ll find even more to
Transcript
164 GRAND JULY I AUGUST 2016
WINEW
Niagara wines score top marks
for this judge
Michael Pinkus
And the gold medal goes to ...With the Olympics in Rio de Janeiro
playing out this summer, it’s time
to identify an array of reds and whites,
both domestic and imported, worthy of
gold medals.
D o m e s t i c G o l dI’m giving out five gold medals, all in
Niagara, and two to one winery. Hey,
someone always dominates the Games.
Be it Michael Phelps or Mark Spitz, an
athlete comes along that sparks our
imagination, and the same can be said in
the wine world. There are wineries that
come along and dominate one grape, such
as Creekside with Syrah, or dominate
a lot of grapes, such as Trius Winery at
Hillebrand, which is where we will kick
off the awards.
Trius 2013 Showcase Wild Ferment
Chardonnay ($36.20 at the winery). I
may not be the biggest fan of Chardonnay,
but that doesn’t mean I don’t recognize
greatness when I taste it. Vanilla, coconut,
lemon drop, buttery caramel, almond
pralines — and that’s just for starters. The
linger is long and you’ll find even more to
166 GRAND JULY I AUGUST 2016
enjoy the longer it’s in the glass.
Trius 2012 Showcase Red Shale Cabernet
Franc ($45.20 at the LCBO, 418129). An
Ontario staple grape made in its purest
form from a hot vintage. Cassis, black
cherry, raspberry, smoky vanilla, hints of
tobacco with silky tannins on the finish. A
true winner for Franc fans.
Creekside 2012 Broken Press Syrah
($42.95 at the winery only). Ontario may
not be known or be the greatest climate for
Syrah, but Creekside has put out another
beauty and they do it every year. Meaty,
smoky, brooding dark fruit, including tart
cassis with chewy tannins on the finish.
This one’s a real mouthful.
Château des Charmes 2012 Equuleus
($40.00 at the winery only). This red blend
is made in only the best years, of which
2012 definitely applies. The best part is that
it is approachable now and will still cellar
for a decade. Black cherry, vanilla, smoky
mocha/coffee and a finish that goes on and
on and on.
Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Rosé
Brut ($29.95 at the LCBO, 217505). While
a non-vintage wine is supposed to be free
of vintage variation, it is hard to keep
it out — and that’s a good thing in this
case. Raspberry, strawberry and lime
cordial with citrus notes on the palate
help clean this up on the finish.
I m p o r t e d G o l dBecause so many countries’ wines come
into our market, not one dominates my
awards. Sales-wise, our neighbours to the
south (California) hold a decided edge over
the rest and take one of the six gold medals
I pass out in the import category.
Ravenswood 2012 Old Hill Single
Vineyard Zinfandel ($61 at the LCBO,
684571). California single vineyard Zin
from the “No Wimpy Wines” company
proves they are still at the top of their game.
Chocolate, cherry, plum and white pepper,
and that’s just the aromas. Add in the
flavours and you’ll swoon over this one.
Catena 2013 San Carlos Appellation
Cabernet Franc ($19.95 at the LCBO,
450106). Argentina and other countries
are learning what Ontarians have known
for a long time: single-variety Cabernet
Franc makes for a great wine. Catena, as
an iconic producer of Malbec, has now set
its sights on some great Franc. Smoky dark
fruit, floral, cedar and robust tannins. Lie
this one down a few years for maximum
enjoyment.
Montes 2012 Purple Angel ($62.95 on
private order). This is an iconic wine
from Chile. There are some who poo-poo
Carmenère as a variety, but once you try the
Purple Angel, you’ll know why Chile fights
so hard for this grape’s reputation.
Antu 2014 Syrah ($17.95 at the LCBO,
675371). From one extreme to the other,
Chile can make expensive taste great, but
they can also still roll out great value wines
that taste like they should cost double what
they do: roasted coffee, mocha, meaty and
black pepper with some spiced raspberry
on the finish.
Château Rombeau 2011 Cuvée Elise
($22.95 at the LCBO, 439695). From the
Midi region of France, this wine exhibits all
kinds of flavours and aromas that’ll make
you scream out for barbecue ASAP. Layers
of vanilla, black cherry, blackberry, cassis
and white smoke all in one nice, conve-
nient, tasty package.
Taylor Fladgate 20-Year-Old Tawny
($68.95 at the LCBO, 149047). Ending
a meal with something sweet is not only
decadent, but it’s required in my house.
This tawny is the perfect balance of
sweetness and acidity, along with orange
peel, dried apricot, almond praline and
gentle spice. The night couldn’t end any
better.
Michael Pinkus is an award-winning wine writer
and past president of the Wine Writers’ Circle of
Canada. Follow him on Twitter at @thegrapeguy.
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