Alpine Club of Canada • Vancouver Section News November 2008 Next MeetiNg: Tuesday, NOVeMBeR 25, 6:30 PM • flORal hall, VaNduseN gaRdeNs, wesT 37Th aNd Oak, VaNcOuVeR shaRe yOuR gOOdies! 6:30 PM POT LUCK ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING + Avalanche Awareness Talk by Brad Harrison It is that time of the year again. Time to come to the Section’s Annual General Meeting. Time to socialize over pot luck dinner. Time to vote for a new Executive and hear what has been accomplished and what will be happening in the coming year. And when the AGM is over Brad Harrison will bring everybody up to date on the latest in avalanche science; or is it art? Find out on Tuesday November 25.
Transcript
Alpine Club of Canada • Vancouver Section News November 2008
Next MeetiNg: Tuesday, NOVeMBeR 25, 6:30 PM • flORal hall, VaNduseN gaRdeNs, wesT 37Th aNd Oak, VaNcOuVeR
shaRe yOuR gOOdies!6:30 pm pot luck
ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING + Avalanche Awareness talk by Brad Harrison
It is that time of the year again. Time to come to the Section’s Annual General Meeting. Time to socialize over pot luck dinner. Time to vote for a new Executive and hear what has been accomplished and what will be happening in the coming year. And when the AGM is over Brad Harrison will bring everybody up to date on the latest in avalanche science; or is it art? Find out on Tuesday November 25.
a N N O u N c e M e N T s
25 November 2009 Annual General meetingThe social will begin with 6:30 PM potluck dinner. Please bring
food to share: appetizers, salads, and light main courses. The
Section will supply cakes, desserts, juice, coffee, tea and excellent
libations. At 7:30 pM we’ll have a brief outline of news and general
announcements. The AGM will start around 7:45 PM. Members
of the Executive will deliver brief reports on their positions of
responsibility. Liz Scremin will moderate the nominations portion
of the evening. After we’ve disposed of the necessary business we’ll
get to what will undoubtedly be the most looked forward part of the
acc VaNcOuVeR secTiONThe club meets monthly, usually for a slide presentation, at the Floral Hall in VanDusen Gardens, W 37th and Oak St., at 7:30 pM on the fourth Tuesday of the month, except in July, August and December.
The aValaNche echOesis the official publication of the Alpine Club of Canada, Vancouver Section.
Volume 84 • Issue no. 10 • November 2008 Editor: Martin Naroznik, 778 892 [email protected]
SUBMISSIONSWe encourage submissions of writing (txt, rtf and doc formats), photography and drawings (jpg, tif, png). Email your submission or call the editor. Deadline is the 20th day of the previous month.
ADVERTISINGAdvertising shall be accepted at the discretion of the editor. All advertis-ing shall be for products or services of direct interest to our membership.
EDITORIAL POLICYSuitability for publication is at the editor’s discretion within the guidelines of the Section Executive. Articles may be edited for clarity or to fit the available space.
e x e c u T i V e
Chair
Rob Brusse 604 224 0747
SeCretary
Richard Keltie 604 738 4583
treaSurer
Dave Henwood 604 874 3377
aCCeSS & eNviroNMeNt
Antje Wahl
CliMbiNg CoordiNatorS
Jay MacArthur 604 987 1232Lynn Erickson 604 224 4883
CaMpS CoordiNator
Mike Thompson 604 534 8863
eNdowMeNt FuNd
Rob Brusse 604 224 0747Richard Keltie 604 738 4583
T H e D a r T 3 0 t h a n n i v e r s a r y M o u n T a i n T o u r
Classes were over for the winter semester, and I had three weeks before the beginning of the spring semester. So, as part of a two-phase journey in the footsteps of John Muir’s classic book,
The Mountains of California, Karin/I headed to the most southern mountains in California.
The Santa Rosa and Little San Bernardino mountains stretch their rocky and snow tipped fingers to the ever blue sky above, while below the parched desert sands seethe with daily and oppressive heat. Our goal for this trip was to soar, like the eagles, to the summit of San Jacin-to and trek through the hot desert sands of Joshua Tree National Park.
The trek to the summit of San Jacinto (10,834 ft) is not much more than a pleasurable stroll. We got on the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway (called the 8th wonder of the world) at 2,643 ft, and within 10 minutes we had carved our way (the rotating tram doing a full circle) up a narrow and precipitous rock gully to the high station at 8,516 ft. The temperature in the Coachella Valley was 110°F, and in the mountains a refreshing 75°F. We spent two days at San Jacinto, the summit still being thick with firm yet melting snow.
Joshua Tree was a stark contrast to San Jacinto. The sheer heat of the desert was stifling. The gargoyle like rock formations, Jumbo Rocks, and boulders scattered and seemingly dropped from nowhere on this high plateau, made for compelling sights. Campsites are located in the most enticing rock formations. We trekked the dry trail to Ryan Peak. We drove down the road to Hidden Valley, slipped through a magical rock opening, entered a secret and sacred valley of desert plants, jutting and protrud-ing rocks, and paths walking the eager to rare places of visual delight.
Our week in the land of perpetual sun was over and done too fast. We had merely tasted what might be. The thirst would be slaked by a longer visit later in the year.
Afew from the Chilliwack Outdoor Club headed to the Rockies. We camped at Misquito Creek the 1st night, then hiked to Bow Alpine Hut the next day. The following day we drove to Wilcox Creek
campground, set up tents, rambled Parker Ridge for a few hours. On August 5, we climbed Mt Athabasca (11,453 ft). It was a delight of a glacier climb. The following day we relocated to Misquito Camp. On August 7, we climbed Mt. Hector (11,135 ft). It was a much longer trek, but the sights seen from the summit were charmers. I checked in at the Lake Louise Alpine Centre on August 8, and awaited Karin’s arrival. The clan had a fine dinner at the historic train restaurant in Lake Louise on Friday. There were all sorts of mountaineering photos in the heritage site. On Satur-day, the tribe trekked up Fairview—some sights that will never leave the memory from such a perch.
Week 2: The plan was to scramble up Mt. Temple (11, 624 ft) on August 10, but a nasty storm nixed the trip. Most from the Chilliwack Club re-turned home. Karin/I, true to the Swiss guiding tradition, sauntered to the Plain of Six Glaciers Tea House. We gazed up at the death trap between Mt. Lefroy (where the first climbing death occurred in Canada) and Mt. Victo-ria. The weather turned dark and brooding on August 11, so Karin/I went to Banff, and I did research on Canadian mountaineering most of the day in the Whyte Museum. We turned to the Columbia Icefields on August 12, did Wilcox Pass and loitered in the area until dusk. August 13 was our bounti-ful day. We caught the early bus to Lake O’Hara, and spent all day rambling the high Alpine route. Yukness Ledge from Opabin to Oesa is a paradise of a ridge walk that should not be missed. August 14, more research on the origins of the Alpine Club of Canada at the Whyte Museum.
August 15 we drove from Lake Louise to Abbotsford. The temperature in the Fraser Valley was 33°C—almost desert conditions.
My wife (Karin) and I met in the summer of 1975 in the Crowsnest Pass. We had been asked to assist in a growing mountaineering programme at a local camp. I had hitchhiked to the camp after spending time paddling about in the Grand Canyon.
Karin had spent most of her summers, before we met, in Jasper-Banff, and I had lived with the Mountain Lapps (Sami) in Northern Norway and in Switzerland from 1972-1974. The Swiss Alpine tradition had drawn me for the simple reason that it was Swiss Guides that were at the forefront and origins of the Canadian mountaineering tradition in the
early decades of the 20th century. I lived in Grindelwald-Gimmelwald, when
in Switzerland, and it is in Grindelwald that the Boswell, sage and scholar of the Alps, W.A.B. Coolidge, ended his days and was buried. Needless to say, I breathed the
air of Swiss Alpinism and Coolidge while in Grindelwald.
Karin/I climbed Crowsnest Mountain in High Rock Country in the summer of 1975.
The Crowsnest area interested us for two reasons. Edward Whymper (the 1st to climb the Matterhorn in 1865) called the Crowsnest ‘attractive to an alpinist’, and Bruno Engler (a well known Canadian mountaineering icon) lived in the area for four years after WWII.
The caves in the Crowsnest were being opened up in the 1970s. I lived in a small cabin for two years (Pig and Whistle) on the west end of Crowsnest Lake, and led many groups though the spacious caverns near Mount Ptolemy and Andy Good Peak.
Karin often visited me at the Pig and Whistle (she was living in Edmonton at the time)
Southern californiaApril 27—May 4, 2008
canadian RockiesAugust 2—15, 2008
Blessed indeed should be every pilgrim in these holy mountains.
—John Muir
The peak was upthrust Like a fist in a frozen ocean of rock that swirled
Into valleys the moon could be rolled in. —Earle Birney
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T H e D a r T 3 0 t h a n n i v e r s a r y M o u n T a i n T o u r
Angus Stuart and I (Karin was recording her 2nd CD) had com-mitted ourselves months ago to follow, partially, in the tracks of Thomas Merton to Eagle River, Alaska. I had larger and more
long term mountaineering goals in mind, also. The trip north took us into the Himalayan range of North America.
Denali, Logan, Elias and many other white towers welcomed us as we did a curious reconnaissance trip to the roof of the Cordillera Range. The Raven and the Mountaineer: Explorations of the St. Elias Mountains was a teaser of a read as we approached the Wrangell-Elias beauties.
It was impossible not to become more excited each mile and step we took, the closer we approached these monarchs of the north. The smaller mountains to the south seemed to fade and dissipate like clouds, the more we neared the peaks that seemed to touch the blue bonnet sky above.
It was almost like entering a magical dream world in which the peaks seen were so huge and massive it was as if they were not truly real. We felt like we were passing into another dimension the more we, cautiously, approached these guardians of the ancient ways.
The Alaska Canada Highway is an autumn trip not to miss. The trees hung heavy like golden lampstands, the leaves sported their last final fling before falling to the soil. The rugged and uneven road was surrounded on all sides by towering turrets of white. The glaciers in the area are in abundance (as is the wildlife), and treks were taken to these ancient tem-perature tellers. A trip taken that is well worth the drive is to Stewart/BC and Hyder/Alaska in which Bear and Salmon glaciers strut their impressive stuff. A hike to Harding Icefield near Seward made for a full day on the trail.Mountains goats and bears were almost as numerous as the trail trekkers.
The return journey was done with some sadness. We could have lin-gered in the Northern Cordillera Range for many more weeks.
This was our mountaineering finale for our 30th anniversary. We were on the mountain road for two weeks. Yosemite was destina-tion #1, this being the 50th anniversary since El Capitan was
climbed, and the mecca of John Muir’s many mountaineering efforts. We spent two days in the Yosemite area, trekking, hiking and check-ing out routes up Half Dome and El Capitan.
Destination #2 was in the Sequoia/Kings Canyon area where some of the largest Sequoia trees in the world still stand. The drive down the nar-row and steep Kings Canyon road was a nail biter, but worth the squirm. We could not miss, in our departure from Sequoia, the famous Moro Rock ascent. Handrails are on both sides of the rock face, and the meager steps carved make for a charmer of an upward swing to Moro’s alluring peak.
Destination #3 took us further south to San Jacinto again. The Aerial Tram carried us from about 2,000 ft and 100°F weather to more than 8,000 ft and 60°F weather. The ramble to the summit (as high as Mt. Baker) opened up vistas that are more than worth the well trod trail to the top.
Destination #4 was the cherry on the cake. The trip up the Big Sur Coastal highway was a visual feast. The literary sites are abundant. This was the world of the Beats, Henry Miller’s Memorial library, and further north in Car-mel, the well known Alpine poet Robinson Jeffer’s attractive and romantic abode. Karin/I even took in Mass at the high perched New Camaldoli Her-mitage. The weather when we left Big Sur highway was fog thick and 10°F, and as we ascended through the fog and reached the Hermitage on the rock ridge, the temperature reached 30°F. And, the drive only took five minutes—quite a change in scenery and temperature in such a short time.
The mountain pilgrimages are now behind us, but the memories are ever present and will sustain us as we trek ever forward. The road does, indeed, go ever on.
between 1975–1977. I had to decide in 1978 whether I would become a mountain guide by being certified with the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides or go to University. I chose the latter.
Karin/I were married in June 1978 at the base of the first mountain we climbed together: Crowsnest Mountain. Snow still clung to
Yukon and AlaskaSeptember 15—24, 2008
californiaOctober 15—27, 2008
the rock ridges, it was a blue bonnet day, avalanche lilies were aplenty, and many a solid friend joined us in the meadow that we were married in. The reception (a banquet of sorts) was near the cabin I had lived in. We spent our month long honeymoon rambling and scrambling in Yoho, Banff and Waterton Parks, then in July-August we led backcountry treks in the Flathead, High Rock and Livingstone Ranges of the Crowsnest Pass.
Our mountain marriage began with a Canadian Alpine wedding. We are celebrating our 30th anniversary of a mountain marriage with a variety of mountaineering trips and treks in 2008.—Ron Dart
I am well again. I came to life in the cool winds
and crystal waters of the mountains.
—John Muir
First sight of mountains in Alaska, strongly ribbed, through cloud.
Suberb blue of the gulf, indescribable ice patterns.
—Thomas Merton
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5 • Ava lancheEchoes• November20 08
As reported in the September issue, our week in the Tantalus Range be-gan as 24 folks from the ACC Toronto
and Vancouver Sections converged at the Squamish airport for the flights into the Tantalus Lake Lovelywater cabin and the Jim Haberl Hut. The weather that morning was not promising, with low overcast, but by mid-day, conditions improved enough to get nearly everyone to their destinations. The pile of gear, duffles and boxes of food was impressive. The first group went up to the Haberl Hut and the second group head-ed to the Tantalus cabin at Lake Lovelywa-ter with a switch planned for mid-week.
Summer 2009 in French AlpsAndrew Langsford, IFMGA Mountain Guide and Theresa Calow, Backcountry Chef, invite you to join them in Chamonix and discover the splendour of hiking, climbing, sightseeing and local gastronomic delights.Allow us to create a customized Alps experience for you; whether you wish to explore the high alpine on endless hikes and trekking routes, or climb more demanding mountaineering routes, including classic climbs such as Mt. Blanc. We offer comfortable accommodation in a beautiful chalet, fully catered meals and a rich cultural experience in the French Alps.
Only $995 per person, per week
7 day weeks starting June 27 and ending August 1, 2009. Organize a group of 10 and the 11th person stays for free! Deposit of $500 required by Dec 1, 2008.
