Anti-Pollution

Pollution – The Dirty Details

Pollution is the introduction of contaminants into an otherwise natural environment. Ironically, asindustrialization has improved quality of life around the globe tremendously, it has simultaneouslyincreased the pollutants we live with on a daily basis. Air pollution, which may include microscopicparticles of smoke, acid, and soot, can have a direct impact on health and wellness. As our first line ofdefense, the skin is consistently exposed to environmental stressors. Hair is also subject to extensivedamage as pollution strips the hair of luster and strength leaving behind lifeless strands and an irritatedscalp.

Regardless of where you live, pollution exposure is prevalent in rural and urban communities. UVB lightfrom the sun causes the buildup of free-radicals on and under the skin leading to fine lines and wrinkles.Public water is another commonly overlooked source of pollution, capable of stripping the skin of itsnatural minerals. Severe or prolonged pollution links to DNA damage and cell mutation, which leads overtime to uneven skin tone, accelerated aging, dark spots, and even cancer. Even when the stressenvironment is no longer present, DNA modification continues to occur following extended, unprotectedexposure.

If you do not live on a bustling city street, pollution can still affect daily life. Even if we never step outsideagain, we will still age thanks to indoor pollution. Household cleaners, furniture glue, some personal careproducts, dust, and volatile organic compounds from electronic equipment are just a few possiblepollution providers. As the number of consumers living urban lifestyles continues to grow around theglobe, it seems that many are turning toward beauty products to protect themselves from the impact ofpollution. Worldwide opportunities are available for cosmetic brands as the effects of pollution are aprominent and ever-growing concern for conscious consumers.

For years, the industry has successfully developed and marketed products that protect against UVinduced skin damage. Now, scientists and formulators are focusing on warding off the effects of airpollution in major cities. Air pollution in Asia is at an all-time high as auto emissions, cigarette andindustrial smoke have allowed cosmetics brands to expand their influence into skin and hair care thatworks to actively fight pollution. The Environmental Protection Agency is leading the charge against airpollution in the East. Now, Europe and North America are becoming as concerned about anti-pollutionclaims as Asian countries.

Damaging Effects Oxidative stress and activated inflammatory responses are the main biological mechanisms involved with pollution damage. Oxidative stress occurs when the body's cells are not able to remove high levels of free radicals that are responsible for aging and tissue damage. Our cells utilize antioxidants to counteract free radicals, but when pollution exposure throws off the balance oxidative stress occurs.

There is a focus on reversing free-radical damage with the use of anti-pollution products: beyond traditional antioxidants like vitamins A and E - which only neutralize oxygen-based free radicals and not pollution’s nitrogen-based free radicals. Major anti-pollution claims for cosmetics emphasize film-forming, anti-oxidant, and anti-inflammatory capabilities.

The latest standard of pollution, theEPA’s PM 2.5 (Particulate Matter 2.5, airpollutants with a diameter of 2.5micrometers or less) are tiny particlesin the air that reduce visibility and haveimplications in overall air quality.

These fine particulate particles areoften times smaller than the poresthrough which the skin breathes. Theyare capable of penetrating deeperlayers of the epidermis causinginflammation, dehydration, and acellular reaction that can lead to theloss of elasticity and firmness.

Although, even simple surfaceinteractions can drastically alter thecomposition of the skin. Pollution canbreak down collagen and the skin’s lipidlayer, impairing surface barrierfunction, causing dryness, acne,accelerated aging, and skin cancer.

Damaging Effects The popularity of anti-pollution products is on the rise as consumers around the world are living the urban lifestyle. The number of products launched containing anti-pollution claims will increase in coming years, and will have an impact on all beauty categories especially facial skincare, color cosmetics, haircare, soap and shower items.

Consumers with increased awareness of potential hair pollution are purchasing products aimed to fight UV rays and environmental pollution. Cosmetics manufacturers are turning to a range of ingredients to fight pollution’s negative effects. Plant extracts are especially popular due to consumer's current high demand for green formulations.

As pollution causes free radical damage and oxidative stress, accelerated skin aging is undeniable. Cellular processes are responsible for skin to heal and repair itself, but intracellular damage will impair these processes leading to fine lines, wrinkles, breakouts, and blemishes.

Product Categories & Efficacy

Hair Care Efficacy

Some pollution particles can be forty times smaller than a normal hair fiber. These particles will bind to the hair and penetrate into the follicles resulting in free radicals, oxidative stress, and cell damage. The hair pollution protection assay assesses the ability of our ingredients to protect the hair from the oxidative effects of air pollution.

Pollutant cigarette smoke is a suitable substance to perform testing, as it contains all key pollution components, such as reactive oxygen species (ROS), reactive nitrogen species, and electrophilic aldehydes. Reactive oxidants, as well as free radicals from cigarette smoke, are closely associated with oxidative stress and secondary oxidative events, such as lipid peroxidation.

Hair care ingredients with anti-pollution capabilities protect the hair from environmental stressors, but at Active Concepts, we do not stop there. We offer multifunctional products to not only protect the hair, but also improve moisturization, render antioxidant benefits, reduce inflammation, and strengthen overall hair quality. Active ingredients work to protect and repair hair, one strand at a time.

The deleterious effects of pollution in skin and hair care has become a new frontier for combative active ingredients. Environmental pollutants are results of automobile exhaust gas, industrial emissions, and even emissions from simple household chores such as cooking and cleaning. Hair is subject to such environmental aggressions as well as UV irradiation and, unlike skin, hair is vulnerable and lacks self-protection mechanisms.

Figure 4. Procedure for Hair Pollution Protection Assay.

Hair Pollution Protection Assay

Evaluating the lipid peroxidation of hair can determine the ability of an ingredient to provide pollution protection. Lipid peroxidation refers to the oxidative degradation of lipids. Lipids keep hair hydrated and protected by providing a coat or shield on the hair strands. In this process, free radicals take electrons from the lipids, resulting in cell damage. Quantification of lipid peroxidation is essential to assess oxidative stress in pathophysiological processes. Lipid peroxidation forms reactive aldehydes such as MDA, or malondialdehyde, as natural byproducts. Measuring the end products of lipid peroxidation is one of the most widely accepted assays for oxidative damage. In the study, evaluation of the active ingredient determines its effect on the inhibition of lipid peroxidation of hair samples exposed to air pollution. Lower levels of MDA correlate with efficient pollution protection for hair.

Exposure to environmental pollution can result in dry, brittle hair with decreased strength and elasticity as well as an irritated scalp. Pollution may encourage sebum production on the scalp resulting in oily hair strands and clogged pores. Long-term exposure to pollution conditions increase the likelihood of excess hair loss as well as degradation of the hair texture resulting in rough, broken, and lackluster hair strands.

Figure 5. Average MDA values for FSS16810 FSS Pisum Sativum Peptide.

Skin Care Efficacy

The role of pollution in the appearance of the premature wrinkles and age spots has become a new frontier in anti-aging active ingredients. While we have known about the harmful effects of pollution on our health for years, new research indicates air pollution plays a detrimental role in extrinsic aging. Carbon and metal micro particles found in polluted air embed in the dermis causing oxidative stress, initiating the inflammatory cascade leading to the breakdown of collagen, elastin, and other structural components in the skin. Additionally, polyaromatic hydrocarbons overstimulate the aryl hydrocarbon receptors on keratinocytes and melanocytes resulting in the hyperpigmentation and the appearance of age spots. Providing a physical barrier will prevent embedment of carbon particles, thus reducing the signs extrinsic aging. The pollution protection assay assesses the ability of our ingredients to provide immediate protection from carbon air pollution.

Standard Assay: Inhibition of PM 2.5 The latest standard of pollution, the EPA’s PM 2.5 (Particulate Matter 2.5, air pollutants with a diameter of 2.5 micrometers or less) are tiny particles in the air that reduce visibility, and have implications in overall air quality. These fine particulate particles are many times smaller than the pores through which the skin breathes. They are capable of penetrating deeper layers of the epidermis causing inflammation, dehydration, and a cellular reaction that can lead to the loss of elasticity and firmness. Although even simple surface interactions can drastically alter the composition of the skin, pollution can break down collagen and the skin’s lipid layer. This can impair surface barrier function causing dryness, acne, accelerated aging, and even skin cancer.

Figures 7-12 depict the results from the pollution protection assay for 16586-Phytofuse Renew®. Images undergo color analysis to depict results in optical density values and pigmentation histograms.

In order to lead the market in customer service and continue to produce products with a purpose, we must continue to effectively support each level of the personal care industry with value added benefits for finished anti-pollution goods. Consumer awareness has led to the desire for ingredients with multi-functional protection and the demand for efficacious materials.

Figure 6. Procedure for Anti-Pollution Assay.

Anti-Pollution AssayPreventing adherence of the micronized charcoal residue indicates the product’s ability to provide barrier protection against everyday air pollution. At the end of the day, we want to be able to wash off any pollution particles or contamination that we may have encountered during the day. Pollution protection ingredients offer a defensive layer against unwanted pollution to keep skin healthy and youthful.

Figure 7. Phytofuse Renew® Pre-Wash. Figure 8. Phytofuse Renew® Post-Wash.

Figure 10. Untreated Control Pre-Wash. Figure 11. Untreated Control Post-Wash.

Figure 9. Phytofuse Renew®

Histograms Quantifying Charcoal Residue.

Figure 12. Untreated

Histograms Quantifying Charcoal Residue.

Hair CareThe cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair, which is formed by tightly packed scales. The ideal position of the cuticle for maximum defense against pollution and moisture retention is laying flat and sealed. When the cuticle becomes lifted due to thermal, mechanical, chemical, or environmental stress from pollution, it becomes prone to additional damage, lacks moisture, and requires additional protection.

Skin CareAnti-pollution cosmetics are essential for protecting the skin from free radical damage and other extrinsic, environmental stressors. It is well documented that UV irradiation exacerbates the formation of hyperpigmentation (age spots) on the skin, while other irritants can cause inflammation, poor collagen synthesis, and transepidermal water loss. Using anti-pollution cosmetics to help protect the skin from extrinsic stressors caused by pollution can in turn help to maintain a healthy and balanced complexion.

References

1. E, Moeglin. et al. 2014. Skincare fights back to protect against pollution. 2. M, Yeomans. et al. 2014. Mintel confirms anti-pollution is dominating Asia

beauty claims. 3. Clarins. et al. 2015. Don’t let pollution get under your skin! Clarins Mag. 4. S, Pitman. Et al. 2015. P&G looks to expand its anti-pollution skin care offering. 5. J, Mills. et al. “Why beauty brands are publishing Anti-pollution Claims.”

Gcimagazine.com. 6. Mintel et al. 2014. Anti-pollution claims on beauty products in Asia Pacific grow

by 40% in two years. 7. D, Utroske. et al. 2014. Olay’s research in Beijing shows the effects of air

pollution on skin health. 8. A, McDougall. et al. 2015. Opportunities lie ahead as anti-pollution trend

continues. 9. F, Bernardin. et al. 2015. China vs. Asia: The different faces of anti-ageing.

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