Apparel Quality Apparel Quality ManagementManagement
Presentation on :Quality Manual ofArvind Mills Ltd., Denim Division, Mysore Road, India
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PRESENTED TO :MS. PRIYADARSHINI
PRESENTED BY :K.DIVYA PRAKAASH(08)MD. SHAD ANWAR(09)
DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, SEMESTER - V
IntroductionIntroduction It is the objective of any manufacturer to offer
his customers first quality merchandise. The purpose of the quality control program is to assist manufacturers in meeting their high standards. In addition quality control program can help them in their operations quality control program, spot and reject Defective items and more importantly pinpoint production operations that need special attention thereby reducing the future production failures. This type of quality control provides a basis for management decisions in the plant.
Quality is: Fit for use Conformance to requirements When customer is satisfied and encouraged to buy
When it is defect free When it has a long life When it has good wear ability and wash ability
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Quality Control SystemsQuality Control Systems
Quality control systems of the various department within the industry are enlisted Quality Control in Fabric InspectionQuality Control in the Testing LaboratoryQuality Control in Cutting RoomQuality Control in Sewing RoomQuality Control in WashingQuality Control in Finishing
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1.FABRIC INSPECTION1.FABRIC INSPECTIONObjective:- To identify and mark fabric faults on the fabric- Decision to cut the fabric lot or notGuidelines for Inspection: - As soon as the fabric reaches the store, fabric
should be inspected. Fabric should be stored in a clean moisture free environment
- A swatch of dimension as specified by the laboratory has to be submitted to the laboratory as soon as the fabric arrives so that fabric is checked for performance standards as per the requirements creased productivity of the cutting department.
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In textile and garment trade extensively accepted system of inspection is
THE FOUR POINT SYSTEM. ◦ This system is very easy to understand and implement. ◦ Standards obtained / achieved in this system have proved as
acceptable in garment manufacturing.
Hence this system is used for fabric checking :
i. Usually we have to check 10% of the total fabric received.ii. In case this inspection passes we can accept the whole lot of
fabriciii. Whenever the first 10 % of the fabric gets failed, we have to
inspect entire quantity and then take a final decision on accepting or rejecting a fabric.
iv. However, wherever the requirement of fabric for an order quantity is less than 1000 meters, in such cases entire quantity of fabric should be used.
FOUR POINT SYSTEMFOUR POINT SYSTEM
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Woven Fabric Defects:◦ Drawback◦ Dropped Pick◦ End out◦ Fly◦ Harness Break down◦ Knots◦ Mixed End◦ Mixed Filling◦ Slubs◦ Smash◦ Soiled Filling or End◦ Stop Mark ◦ Thin place
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2.LABORATORY2.LABORATORYNo sooner than the fabric is received at ware
house, one meter length from every fabric role received will be sent to Laboratory for finding Dimensional Changes due to Style wash & and shades evolved during Style Wash.
Fabric Content and Weight are verified and then following tests are conducted
Fabric package test Garment package test
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FABRIC PACKAGE TESTFABRIC PACKAGE TESTSkewTensile StrengthTearing Strength Colour Fastness to PerspirationColour Fastness to Crocking Colour Fastness to Water Fabric WeightpH ( Power of Hydrogen ) using pH meter
Stretch & Recovery ( Only for Stretch
Fabric )Construction ( Visual)Yarn Size
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GARMENT PACKAGE TESTGARMENT PACKAGE TEST Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering. Appearance after Laundering Tensile Strength Attachment Strength Seam Properties Tearing Strength CF to Accelerated Laundering CF to crocking Fabric Weight Colour Fastness to Perspiration Colour fastness to Water Fibre Identification pH Extract Stretch & Recovery ( Only for Stretch Fabric )
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3.CUT ROOM QUALITY CHECKGood Sewing begins with good cutting. Bad
cutting will result in sewing defects, excessive repairs and slowed production. The Quality Control Inspector's responsibilities include assisting the Cut Room Manager for taking correct steps and corrective measures if required.
Requirements PO File with Tech Pack, before and wash specs,
Fabric shade band, shrinkage details, Marker / Pattern details, Trim Cards QA Specifications, Approved sample, Visual Quality standards, PP meeting notes etc; are to be there in the section. Display the items those are specified, on the display board. Before the spreading of the fabric, it should be relaxed ( Especially Stretch fabric ) and report to be maintained.
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SPREADING:
01. TABLE MARK:The Inspector should check for these marks as the table is marked off. Allow 1/4" tolerance for
marking according to the marker splices marked by the tracer.
02. Marker Placement :Marker should be placed on the spread with front edge on the marker edge:( 1/8" variance and 1/2"
allowance on the end placement.) 03. Edging:After completion of the spread, check to see that straight edge from the marker line is within 1/4"
variance ( Wide or Narrow )04.Ends:After completion of the spread check , see that plies do not extend closer than 1/2" nor more than 1"
away from the marked end of the spread.05.Splices:After completion of the spread, check splice hem laps to see that both plies extend past the marked
splice by no less than 1/2" and no more than 11/2".06.Narrow Goods: After completion of the spread, check the far edge of the spread to see that all plies extend beyond
the marker line.07.Leaning:After completion of spread, check for leaning by standing a rule on the straight edge of the spread.
Check at least at three different places Tolerance is 1/4"08.Tension:Tension must be checked during spreading. This is very important especially on knit fabrics. Tension
can be recognised by the biased appearance of goods with a reasonable amount of tolerance.09.Count:Count must be checked after completion of spreading and before cutting. count must be made of all
plies at both ends.10.Remnants:Check to see that remnants are no longer than the shortest splice. 11
CUTTING: 01. Miscut:Miscut measures the ability of the cutter to split the line.
Tolerance 1/8" 02. Matching Plies:Check top ply with the bottom ply. Tolerance 1/8" 03 . Rugged Cutting:This is a judgement defect. It is more important on critical
parts. If the part has to be recut, it is a defect. 04. Notches:Check the notch location by placing the pattern over the
top ply. Tolerance 1/8" 05. Check Pattern:Compare the pattern to marker paper to ensure that the
marker is correct
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FUSING Before starting the fusing, it is necessary that
Parameters under which parts are to be fused should be decided by which the fusing standards are obtained. The Standard should usually be given by the interlining supplier or in few cases buyer will suggest the standard as well as the type of interlining to be used. Suggested standard should be displayed near the fusing machine with all the details.
- Setting the Machine- Interlining Compatibility- Fusing Shrinkage- Regular Quality Check
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4.QUALITY IN SEWING FLOOR
Responsibility of Quality Assurance Department in SEWING FLOOR can be divided in to three stagesThey are; Pre Production StageIn Line &End Line
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Pre Production: It is nothing but preparing your self for the new style to
be sewn in the line /in the sewing floor. Know the Style: It is the responsibility of the roving QA that he studies the style
completely especially with reference to fabric, trims, construction / required needle work.
Set the line for Production: After the discussion / pre production meeting with the
concerned people of the line, it is the turn of the IE and Line Technician along with the Supervisor to work out machine lay out and line plan so that manufacturing of the garments are made easy to yield maximum production with QUALITY.
Display :i. Relevant details such asii. Line Plan / Machine Layoutiii. Tec pack / Construction details of the styleiv. Measurement Chartv. Trim Cardvi. Approved Standard duly signed by QAM etc; are to be
displayed at the end table of the sewing line besides weekly and monthly Quality performance of the particular sewing line.
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In Line SewingIn Line SewingBefore starting the actual sewing, each operator
has to check the SPI of his machine.At the time of starting of a new style, it is
necessary that QA discusses with IE and batch technician about the machine layout, line plan and sequence of operations.
Every operator before the start of sewing of the particular part/operation, shall stitch a mock in the same fabric and this mock shall be reviewed by QA as well as the line supervisor.
Thus, the Roving QA has to move machine by machine as the stitching operation continues till the complete finished FIRST GARMENT of the style comes out of the line. QA and Supervisor shall review this FIRST GARMENT that has come out for CONSTRUCTION and MEASUREMENT. 16
End Line:End Line:Stitched garments from the sewing line are
received at END TABLE and these garments are subjected for 100% inspection by Quality Inspector at END Table.
For VISUAL, CONSTRUCTION and KEY MEASUREMENTS.
Passed garments at this stage are AUDITED at 2.5 AQL and on passing, moved to WASHING SECTION.
Quality Failed Garments shall be returned to sewing section for rectification and return.
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5.Quality Control System 5.Quality Control System in Washingin Washing
From Sewing Section, garments are sent to Laundry for further processing. In Denims / Jeans, wash process is an integral part of Garments. In laundry, wash process is divided in to two parts. They are Dry Process and Wet Process.
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DRY PROCESS:Laser PrintingResin TreatmentWhiskering (Moulding)
•Laser PrintingLaser Printing is an electrostatic digital printing process that rapidly produces high quality text and graphics by passing laser beam over a charged drum to define a differently charged image. The Quality Checks are :
Size of the PrintIntensity of the Print Print PlacementBack ground shade / intensity
Hand SandingTacking / TyingPP SprayDamages /
Destruction
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Resin Treatment
Resin Treatment gives value addition to garments. We have been talking about Resin and its use in Denim Garments Industry to create unique and vintage looks. This adds value to Denim Garments and improves its salebility in the market. During the process points of check are:- Concentration of Resin Solution( Both solute and solvent should be taken exactly as per the given standard )( Mixing to be made by a stirring machine )- Quantity that is to be sprayed on a garment- Size of Inflated Balloon on which the garments are hung- Garment Rotation Time- Curing Time
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Whiskering:
On Denims, whiskers / moulds / moustaches / chevrons are nothing but the worn out lines /impressions generated by natural wearing on hips and thigh area. There are many designs & patterns available for this purpose. The activity is being carried out manually with the help of sharp edge emery paper rolled and pasted on fine wooden stick.
Quality Check Points during this process are
1) Size wise verification of pattern / mould with respect to garment size
2) Position and placement 3) Intensity of the whiskering carried out
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Hand Scraping / Sanding: Hand Sanding is generally being done in rigid
form of garments to get distress look. Locations of scrapping can be front, thigh and back seat or it can be overall / global application as per standard.
Process check points of Hand Sanding are:
1) Selection of right numbered paper depending on the
fabric strength and required intensity2) Intensity3) Placement
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Tacking / Tying: It is a process which is being done by swift tag
machines with the help plastic or nylon tag pins on rigid form of garment to get very heavy contrast ( rigid & washed ) on waist band , bottom hem back pocket and front pocket corners etc;. After washing completely nylon tag must be removed before finishing.
Check points during the process are
1) Tagging placement.
2) Length of tag pin &
3) Width of folding where tagged
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PP Spray: PP Spray is being done on denim garments to
achieve local abraded area to appear whiter than background indigo colour shade. Check points which need to be followed are :
1) Spray Gun Pressure 2) Width / Area of spray 3) Flow & way of spraying
•Damages / Destruction: This is one of the most popular distressing effects currently used. Destruction is an art which makes denim look unique and used. Point of check are : 1) Size of the damage 2) Position and place of destruction
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QUALITY CONTROL DURING WET PROCESS Development Sampling Bulk
DEVELOPMENT It is advisable that the QA Department involve themselves right
from the Development Stage and during the development, it is necessary that following factors are worked out and the record is maintained in a Development Register.
Weight of the garment / load. Water level / quantity of water required Hardness of water used for the bath pH value of water Temperature of the bath Timing / Duration under which bath is given to develop the sample Type of bath ( Recipe / Chemicals used ) Quantity / Weight of chemicals use
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SAMPLINGDuring Proto sample making the
standard to be achieved is as that of the final finished garment in Bulk Production. Therefore from the Original Development Register, the recipe shall be worked out to meet the Final Standard in Bulk. Hence, in process activity for Proto shall be tracked back to the Development.
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BULK WASH: The garments received for Bulk Wash are to be
checked / audited 100% for before wash stains, damages, fabric defects and construction faults. If found defective, garments are to be sent back for rectification. It is also mandatory that washing section shall receive the garments fabric lot / shade wise only.
In Pilot Washing, In Final Washing,
1)Shade2)Unwanted streak marks3)Measurements4)Damages
1)No. of garments in the bath 2)Water level ( Quantity of water used for the bath ) 3)Hardness of water used for the bath 4)pH value of the water used for the bath 5)Temperature of the bath ( Under which the bath shall run ) 6)Timing ( Duration for which the bath should run. and adjust the time regulator accordingly ) 7)Type of bath ( Recipe / Chemicals used 8)Quantity of Chemicals used for bath ( Quantity to be weighed and then mixed with the solvent / water before pouring in to the bath drum ) 27
6.FINISHING 6.FINISHING DEPARTMENTDEPARTMENTPO file with Tech Pack etc; Wash
Standard, Approved Shade Garments, Shrinkage
Details, Trim Cards, Fabric Test Report, Garment Test Report, QA Specifications,
Measurement spec, Approved Sample, Visual Quality Standards, PP Meeting notes,
Packing & Folding instructions are to be there in the section.
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Garment received in Finishing Section for finishing has to be recorded in an appropriate ledger mentioning PO No., Buyer's name, size wise order quantity, size wise receipts, wash type etc.
Any special instructions if available are to be displayed.
Display board should have approved Garment, Trim Cards, Folding / Packing method, Fabric defect standards ( marked with accepted / not accepted ), wash standards, shade bands, Defect % as observed in finishing section. Ironing standard to be available in the section.
Standard requirement to be explained to all Ironing operators like method of Ironing, Temperature control, steam usage etc;
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CHECKING AREA◦ Inspection and Checking area to be provided with a minimum of
1200 Lux light level.
◦ Whenever the lighting level decreases bulbs should be replaced. The table tops should be white laminated. All relevant details as specified are to be kept at the checking area.
VISUAL CHECK◦ All the garments are to be checked for Visual Defects related to
stitching, Fabric, Trims etc; Rejected garments during inspection are to be rectified.
MEASUREMENT CHECK◦ All the Garments to undergo measurement checks at critical
points at a separate specified area.
◦ Record of a minimum of 32 garments' measurements in every style are to be recorded on daily basis or as specified by the respective buyer.
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Garments passed through measurement check are to pass through ironing section for garment pressing and folding.
GARMENT PRESSING & FOLDING:◦ In Ironing Section, Pressing Standard should be displayed on each of
the Pressing Table and Ironing operator should be explained and well educated about the requirement of the Buyer with respect to Pressing and Folding. Neatly pressed and folded garments then shall be sent to Packing Section.
Garment Packing:◦ Folded Garments from Ironing section shall be passed through MD
Machine to ascertain that the garments are free from Metal Contamination.
◦ On receipt of the garments Packing Section shall segregate the garments as under. Color wise & Shade wise Each Shade shall be further segregated in to different sizes.
◦ Then Tagging of the garments shall take place. After Tagging, garments shall be stored /kept separately as per Color, Shade and Size.
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THANK THANK YOU!!YOU!!
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