apparel wash

8/13/2019 apparel wash

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CHAPTER 01

INTRODUCTION

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING Page1


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1.0 INTRODUCTION

Nowadays bleach wash on denim gamen!s has become a "ey #o#$la wash. I! is %o$nd !ha! mos! o% !he

denim gamen!s ae washed !ho$gh bleach washing #ocess. As i! can gi"e "aio$s %ading e%%ec!s i!s

#o#$lai!y is e"en moe inceasing.

I! is chemical !ea!men! !ha! a%!e washing !he #o#e!ies o% !he gamen!s changes. The change is "ey

high and !he changes ae im#o!an! %o $ndes!anding !he %$!$e #e%omance o% !he gamen!s. Ad"ance

gamen!s Technology s!$dies on washing e%%ec!s and changes o% #o#e!ies o% gamen!s.

O$ #o&ec! !he Com#aa!i"e E%%ec! Analysis be!ween 'leach (ash ) Nomal (ash on Denim To$ses

is a #a! o% #ac!ical *nowing o% !he Com#aa!i"e E%%ec! Analysis be!ween 'leach (ash ) Nomal

(ash on Denim To$ses. 'leaching #owde is an o+idi,ing agen!. I! is $sed in washing %o colo o$!

%om !he denim gamen!s. (e can achie"e de%een! shade o% colo on gamen! i.e. Da*- edi$m- /igh!

shade. I! is also no!iced Desi,ing also cea!e changes in #o#e!ies o% denim gamen!s.



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CHAPTER

LITERATURE REVIEW



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.1 DENI

Denim is a $gged co!!on !will !e+!ile- in which !he we%!#asses $nde !wo o moe wa#!heads. This

!willwea"ing #od$ces !he %amilia diagonal ibbing o% !he %abic- which dis!ing$ishes denim %om

co!!on d$c*.

I! is chaac!eis!ic o% any indigodenim !ha! only !he wa# !heads ae dyed- wheeas !he we%! !heads

emain #lain whi!e. As a es$l! o% !he wa#2%aced !willwea"ing- one side o% !he %abic shows !he bl$e

wa# !heads- !he o!he side shows !he whi!e we%! !heads. This is why &eansae whi!e on !he inside and

wha! ma*es denim3s %ading chaac!eis!ics $ni4$e com#aed !o e"ey o!he %abic.

.1.1 ORI5IN

The wod 3denim3 comes %om !he name o% a s!$dy %abic called sege- oiginally made in Nimes

6ance- by !he And7 %amily. Oiginally called 8ege de Nimes- !he name was soon sho!ened !o denim

Denim has been $sed in Ameica since !he la!e 19!h cen!$y.

Denim was !adi!ionally coloed bl$e wi!h indigo dye!o ma*e bl$e :&eans:- !ho$gh :&ean: !hen deno!ed

a di%%een!- ligh!e co!!on !e+!ile; !he con!em#oay $se o% &ean comes %om !he 6ench wod %o 5enoa

I!aly


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.1. CHARACTERI8TIC8 O6 DENI 6A'RIC

1. (a# yans ae coloed design

a. Plain.

b. Twill


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.1. (OR/D (IDE ARET

The dye ho$se a! !he (hi!e Oa* Co!!on ill- in 5eensboo- No!h Caolina. The Cone ills

Co#oa!ionwhich owned !he mill was %omely !he wold3s lages! ma*e o% denim.

The dye ho$se a! !he (hi!e Oa* Co!!on ill- in 5eensboo- No!h Caolina. The Cone ills

Co#oa!ionwhich owned !he mill was %omely !he wold3s lages! ma*e o% denim

In 00@- !he woldwide denim ma*e! e4$aled U8D 1.B billion- wi!h demand gowing by F and

s$##ly gowing by 9F ann$ally. O"e 0F o% denim is #od$ced in Asia- s#eci%ically China- India- and

'angladesh. The %ollowing !able shows whee !he wold3s denim mills ae loca!ed.

Region No. of Denim Mills

Asia


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. DENI TPE8

The di%%een! !y#es o% Denim %abics incl$de co!!on sege- aw denim- sel"age- s!e!ch- #oly- as well as

amie Denim. The main di%%een! among !hese denims is !ha! !hey ae blended wi!h di%%een! ma!eials;

howe"e- !hey ae all %ashionable.

..1 8E/A5E DENI

All 6abic has a sel"edge

$sing a 8h$!!le loom.

8h$!!le looms wea"e a naowe ?0 inch %abic- which is on a"eage hal% !he wid!h o% !he moe moden

sh$!!le less 8$l,elooms


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A%!e being ca%!ed in!o an a!icle o% clo!hing- mos! denim is washed !o ma*e i! so%!e and !o ed$ce o

elimina!e shin*age- which co$ld ca$se an i!em !o no! %i! a%!e !he owne washes i!. In addi!ion !o being

washed- non2dy denim is some!imes a!i%icially :dis!essed: !o #od$ce a won loo*.

$ch o% !he a##eal o% %ac!oy dis!essed denim is !ha! i! loo*s simila !o dy denim !ha! has- wi!h !ime

%aded. (i!h dy denim- howe"e- s$ch %ading is a%%ec!ed by !he body o% !he #eson who weas !he &eans

and !he ac!i"i!ies o% his>he daily li%e. This cea!es wha! many en!h$sias!s %eel !o be a moe na!$al-

$ni4$e loo* !han dis!essed denim.

To %acili!a!e !he na!$al dis!essing #ocess- some weaes o% dy denim will o%!en abs!ain %om washing

!hei &eans %o moe !han si+ mon!hs- !ho$gh i! is no! a necessi!y %o %ading.

..? RAIE DENI

Ramie denim is made wi!h !he #lan! %ibe amie as well as manmade %ibes li*e #olyes!e o s#ande+

The na!$al %ibe gi"es i! a so%!e %eels and ed$ces win*ling. The %abic is also s!ain esis!an!- absoben!

and doesn3! lose i!s sha#e.

Ramie %ibe is #$e whi!e in colo- l$s!o$s- mois!$e absoben!- and eadily dyed. The %ibe is s!onge

!han %la+- co!!on- o wool. 6abic made %om amie %ibe is easily la$ndeed- inceasing in s!eng!h when

we!- and does no! shin* o lose i!s sha#e.

I! dies 4$ic*ly and becomes smoo!he and moe l$s!o$s wi!h e#ea!ed washings. Ramie is esis!an! !o

mildew and o!he !y#es o% mico2oganism a!!ac* and good %as!ness !o s$n. 'eca$se amie is bi!!le

s#inning i! is di%%ic$l! and wea"ing is com#lica!ed beca$se amie has a "ey haiy yan s$%ace.

.. 8TRETCH DENI

8!e!ch denim $s$ally inco#oa!es an elas!iccom#onen!


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:gi"e: so !ha! i! can e+#and


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J Tain Tac*s K a##eas on !he o$! seams o% !he denim. This %ade showcases !he sel"edge by %oming

!wo se!s o% %ades !ha! esemble !ain !ac*s.



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. 6/O( CHART O6 DENI PRODUCTION

8#inning

'ale (a#ing

Ro#e Dyeing

/ong Chain 'eaming

8i,ing

(ea"ing

6inishing

Ins#ec!ion ) 6olding

Pac*ing

Dis#a!ch

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/04/process-flow-chart-of-rotor-yarn.htmlhttp://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/03/procee-flow-chart-of-textile-finishing.htmlhttp://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/04/process-flow-chart-of-rotor-yarn.htmlhttp://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/03/procee-flow-chart-of-textile-finishing.html


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. ANU6ACTURIN5 O6 DENI

The !em :Denim: has oigina!ed %om !he ci!y o% Nimes in 6ance whee :sege de Nimes: was

man$%ac!$ed. Denim is made %om a "a! dye- !he Indigo dye- which is a##lied !o co!!on %abic in loosely

held %om in layes. As %a as man$%ac!$ing #ocess o% denim is concened- i! is simila !o !ha! o% 5ey

%abic $# !o !he #ocess o% wea"ing wi!h !he only di%%eence !ha! in case o% Denim 6abic- i! is dyed a!

!he s!age o% si,ing whee as in case o% 5ey 6abic- !he decision egading dyeing s!age de#ends $#on

!he %inished #od$c!. The de!ails o% each #ocess ae gi"en below

)PINNING*

The ini!ial s!age o% denim #od$c!ion is O#ening and 'lending. O#ening begins wi!h baled co!!on %ibe

being se#aa!ed in!o small !$%!s. A blend o% co!!on %ibes is made on each o#ening line. These bales ae

selec!ed $sing U8DA High ol$me Ins!$men!


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RING )PINNING*

In Ring 8#inning- !he s#inning %ames ecei"e Ro"ing "ia a !ansi! sys!em %om !he o"ing machine

an is %omed %om co!!on %ibes!ha! ae !wis!ed !oge!he a%!e being da%!ed by #assing be!ween !hee

s!eel olls and !hee $bbe olls. The yan !hen is wa##ed on a bobbin as i! s#ins on a s#indle by $se o%

a !a"ele. The ela!ionshi# be!ween oll s#eeds- !a"ele s#eeds and s#indle s#eeds con!ols !he amo$n!

o% !wis! in !he yan. Ends down le"els and #od$c!ion in%oma!ion ae ga!heed by !he Us!e Ring E+#e!

8ys!em. The s#inning %ames a$!oma!ically do%% bobbins %$ll o% yan and send !hem !o #ac*age winding

AC5 also has !he ca#aci!y !o #od$ce Amsle O#en2End yan- also *nown as 6a$+ Ring 8#$n yan. This

!echnology enables AC5 !o im#a! "aio$s sl$b #a!!ens in!o an O#en2End yan. Denim made %om !his

!y#e o% yan has yan chaac!e and s$%ace in!ees! !ha! canno! be achie"ed wi!h !adi!ional O#en2End

yan.

FA+RIC WEAVING*

. Grey ,rn on Cones

Nomally yans ecei"ed %o wea"ing in cone %oms ae ei!he %om ing s#inning o %om o#en end

s#inning in single o do$ble %old as e4$ied. 6o wea"ing- yan $sed is ca!egoi,ed in!o

(a# yan

(e%! yan

Nomally %o (ea"ing- yan $sed as wa# sho$ld be s$%%icien!ly s!ong !o wi!hs!and s!ess and s!ainse+e!ed d$ing wea"ing o#ea!ions. Hence !hey ae ha"ing Co$n! 8!eng!h Pod$c! %om indi"id$al cones is #$lled !oge!he in shee! %om- wo$nd on a bael called wa#ing beams


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'. )i/ing of yrn in )e# +em #o +em Posi#ion

The ob&ec! o% 8i,ing is !o im#o"e !he s!eng!h o% yan by chemically binding !he %ibes wi!h each o!he

and also im#o"e $#on i!s %ic!ion esis!ance ca#aci!y by chemically coa!ing !he s$%ace o% yan>%ibes

6$!he- n$mbe o% !heads in wa#es beam shee! is "ey less agains! n$mbe o% !heads e4$ied in

whole wid!h o% %abic. Hence m$l!i#lica!ion o% shee!s by dawing yans !oge!he %om many wa# beams

and again ma*ing one shee! is also #e%omed on si,ing machine. On si,ing- nomally- 921 F si,e

ma!eial on wa# !head is a##lied. This im#o"emen! in s!eng!h and %ic!ional esis!ance chaac!eis!ic

o% wa# yan is essen!ial beca$se d$ing wea"ing- yan has !o $ndego se"ee s!ain ) s!ess as well as

%ic!ional o#ea!ions.

". Dr!ing0in

(ea"ing is basically in!elacemen! o% !wo se!s i.e. wa# and we%! !heads in desied se4$ence and

#a!!en. To ob!ain !his in!elacemen!- wa# yan shee! is bi%$ca!ed ) o#ened in !he %om o% !wo layes>

shee! and we%! !head is inse!ed be!ween so o#ened !wo wa# shee!s. This o#ea!ion is called shedding!o #e%om shedding !he wa# yan needs !o be #assed !ho$gh healed eyes o% !he healed sha%!s- !his

o#ea!ion is called as dawing2in.

e. +em Gi#ing or 1no##ing on Loom

The dawn wea"es beams ae %i+ed on wea"ing machines- !heads ae !ied and healed sha%!s ae

co$#led. This o#ea!ion is called 'eam 5ai!ing. I% $ndawn wa# !heads ae diec!ly *no!!ed !o !he

!heads o% %inished beams- i! is called no!!ing. These o#ea!ions ae essen!ial beca$se nomally wea"esbeam can cay only ce!ain leng!h o% wa# shee! on i! and when so wo"en- whole leng!h is con"e!ed !o

!he %abic by wea"ing machine. 6$!he wa# leng!h is e4$ied !o be %ed which can be done by *no!!ing

o gai!ing o!he beams on wea"ing machine.

f. We2ing

As s!a!ed ealie- wea"ing is in!elacing !wo se!s o% yan and ma*ing %abic. One se! is called wa#

!head which is in shee! %om- !he o!he one is called we%! !head which is inse!ed be!ween !wo layes o%

wa# shee! by means o% a s$i!able caie i.e. 8h$!!le- Po&ec!ile- Ra#ie- Ai c$en!- (a!e c$en!- e!c.

De#ending $#on !he !y#e o% !he wea"ing machines.



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The di%%een! !y#es o% !echnologies a"ailable %o wea"ing machines ae bie%ly e+#lained as below

Con"en!ional 8h$!!le (ea"ing 8ys!em by Odinay /ooms o A$!oma!ic /ooms.

8h$!!le less (ea"ing 8ys!em by Ai &e! >(a!e &e!>Ra#ie>Po&ec!ile

8h$!!le loom is a con"en!ional Technology wi!h m$ch less #od$c!ion on acco$n! o% slow s#eed and

e+cessi"e wea and !ea o% machiney. This sh$!!le loom !echnology has now become obsole!e. Denim is

wo"en !ho$gh 8h$!!le less (ea"ing 8ys!em by $sing GB A2e Ty#e Tsoda*oma Co#oa!ions Ai &e!

looms o a#ie looms o #o&ec!ile looms. These looms ae dis!ing$ished by we%! inse!ion me!hod-

which is bie%ly disc$ssed hee$nde.

AIR3ET LOOM) *

These !y#es o% looms ado#! !he la!es! de"elo#men! in (ea"ing Technology whee we%! inse!ion is done

wi!h !he hel# o% com#essed ai. A "ey high we%! inse!ion a!e $# !o 1900 me!e #e min$!e is achie"ed

Com#aed !o a#ie and #o&ec!ile looms- !hese looms ae less "esa!ile b$! ae economical and ae $sed

in mass !e+!ile #od$c!ion $ni! li*e denim.

FINI)4ING*

. Grey F(ri'

The %inally wo"en %abic o 5ey 6abic- as i! is #o#$laly called; wo$nd on a clo!h oll is !a*en o$! %om

wea"ing machines a! ce!ain in!e"als and chec*ed on ins#ec!ion machines %o #ossibili!ies o% any

wea"ing %a$l!. I% s$ch %a$l!s ae seen anywhee in %abic d$ing ins#ec!ion- ce!ain coec!i"e s!e#s ae

!a*en a! wea"ing- wa#ing- si,ing- e!c so !ha! !hey can be minimi,ed in s$bse4$en! #od$c!. This is a

4$ali!y con!ol e+ecise.

(. Denim F(ri'

Denim 6abics wo"en o% 100F co!!on wo$ld be "ey s!ong and d$able. Tadi!ionally 'l$e Denim is

wa# %aced co!!on %abic wi!h ? + 1 !will cons!$c!ion wi!h wa# being dyed in a solid colo and we%! le%!

$n2dyed. The loo* and 4$ali!y o% !he Denim 6abic shall im#o"e a%!e dyeing- !he #ocess o% which

di%%es %om #lan! !o #lan!. Nomally !he #ocess o% dyeing dic!a!es !he !echnology o% Denimman$%ac!$ing.



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The dyeing %o Denim 6abic ha##ens a! !he si,ing s!age. 5eneally !hee ae !wo mos! #o#$la me!hods

o% dyeing Denim 6abic. They ae

Ro#e Dyeing

8hee! Dyeing

A com#any can ado#! any o% !he me!hods. In co$n!ies li*e India 8hee! Dyeing e!hod is commonly

$sed %o man$%ac!$e o% i!s Denim 6abics- which has %ollowing ad"an!ages o"e Ro#e Dyeing e!hod

The !echnology is less ca#i!al in!ensi"e.

The !echnology is a #o"en one.

The cos! o% #od$c!ion is lowe.

The #ocess !ime is lowe.

The 8hee! Dyeing machines ae "ey easy !o o#ea!e.

The only de%ec! in 8hee! dyeing is !ha! !hee is a #oblem o% cen!e !o sel"edge shade "aia!ion.

'. )&ee# Dyeing Pro'ess

This #ocess elimina!es a %ew in!emedia!e #ocesses o% !he o#e dyeing. The yan shee! is washed wi!h

chemicals s$ch as ca$s!ic and washing soda and a%!e s4$ee,ing !he e+cess wa!e; !he yan shee! is

allowed !o #ass !ho$gh Dyeing To$ghs one !ime %o o+ida!ion and de"elo#men! o% dye on yan. A%!e

dyeing- !he dyed yan is washed again wi!h %esh wa!e %o !wo2!hee !imes and %inally s4$ee,ed be%oe

allowing i! !o #ass !ho$gh si+ dying cylindes. The dyed yan en!es !he s!aching de"ice and si,ing is

done. A%!e si,ing- !he si,ed wa# beam goes %o wea"ing. A%!e wea"ing- !he wo"en Denim 6abics

goes %o "aio$s %inishing #ocesses consis!ing o% b$shing- singeing- washing- im#egna!ion %odessing and dying. '$shing and singeing sho$ld elimina!e im#$i!ies and hel# !o e"en !he s$%ace o%

!he %abic. Dessing eg$la!es !he hand and igidi!y o% !he %abic while com#essi"e shin*ing eg$la!es

i!s dimensional s!abili!y.

E"en !oday Denim 6abic wi!ho$! Indigo Dyeing is no! called a$!hen!ic Denim. Ini!ially when Denim

6abic en!eed !he %ashion ma*e!- Denim man$%ac!$es wee $sing Na!$al Indigo Dye- which was

cos!ly and gi"ing a na!$al %inish. Tho$gh 8yn!he!ic Indigo Dye has gad$ally e#laced Na!$al Indigo

Dye- some $nogani,ed man$%ac!$es s!ill #e%e !he la!!e and a!!ac! #emi$m a%!e banding !hem

LNa!$al Dye UsedM.



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". M5ing6U-

(ea"ing o% %abics on s$ch m$l!i si,es is no! economical- hence a s!andad wid!h %abics is !hen sen! !o

ma*ing $#. 6abics ae c$! in!o !he desied wid!h as #e si,e e4$ied on !his machine. Denim 6abic and

5ey 6abic ae !hoo$ghly chec*ed %o "aio$s !y#es o% de%ec!s s$ch as

(ea"ing De%ec!s

Une"en Dyeing

'leaching and Dyeing De%ec!

Oil 8!ain

Pa!ches

Hee !he %inal #od$c! is ca!egoi,ed 4$ali!y2wise. The #od$c!s !hen %o$nd o*ay ae segega!ed and sen!

!o #ac*aging de#a!men! wheeas de%ec!i"e ones ae sen! %o coec!ion. A%!e ins#ec!ion- !he se!s ae

wa##ed wi!h #oly!hene co"es and sen! %o dis#a!ch as #e b$yes s#eci%ica!ions.

DI)PATC4 *

Rolls and se!s so %omed and #ac*ed as #e b$yes e4$iemen!s ae !hen sen! %o %inal dis#a!ches.

.B (EAE DE8I5N8

The aising and loweing se4$ence o% wa# !heads in "aio$s se4$ences gi"es ise !o many #ossible

wea"e s!$c!$es

Plainwea"e #lain- and ho#sac*s-#o#lin-!a%%e!a-#o$l!-#ibionesand gosgain.

Twillwea"e !hese ae descibed by we%! %loa! %ollowed by wa# %loa!- aanged !o gi"e diagonal

#a!!en. >1 !will- ?>? !will- 1> !will. These ae so%!e %abics !han #lain wea"es. Denim isdei"a!i"es o% !will wea"e.

8a!inwea"e sa!insand sa!eens.

Com#le+ com#$!e2genea!ed in!elacing.

Pile %abics s$ch as "el"e!sand "el"e!eens.

A ?>1 !will-as $sed in denim.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plain_weavehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plain_weavehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poplinhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taffetahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pibioneshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twill_weavehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twill_weavehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satin_weavehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satin_weavehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satinhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sateenhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velvethttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velveteenhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Twill_structure.pnghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plain_weavehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poplinhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taffetahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pibioneshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twill_weavehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satin_weavehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satinhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sateenhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velvethttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velveteen


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.@ DIN5 6OR DENI

Denim %abic dyeing is di"ided in!o !wo ca!egoies; indigo dyeing and s$l#h$ dyeing. Indigo dyeing #od$ces

!adi!ional bl$e colos o shades simila !o bl$e colos. 8$l#h$ dyeing


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8#ecial a!!en!ion shall be #aid hee !o Indigo; !he S*ing o% dyes!$%%sM since i! #lays an im#o!an! ole in

ob!aining !he &eans e%%ec!. Indigo belongs !o !he ca!egoy o% a!e insol$ble dyes!$%%s. I! was %is!

men!ioned in a boo* 1? 'C; a! !ha! !ime !he name Indian bl$e indica!ed !he co$n!y !he colo came %omI! is said !o ha"e been $sed %o dyeing in India and China 000 yeas 'C aleady.

INDIGO REDUCTION

C1BH10ON Na8O NaOH C1BH10ONNa Na8O? HOOXIDATION REACTION

Na8O O NaOH . Na8O Na8O? HO C1BH10ONNa V O HO 8odi$mHydos$l%ide C1BH10ON NaOH

.9 HO( TO AE INDI5O 8O/UTION

In a !an* o% 1000 li!esa= Ta*e 00 li!es o% wa!e l


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.G 5ARENT (A8HIN5

(ashing #ocess in which hea"y o sligh! soiling is emo"ed and !ans%eed !o !he wa!e in !he %om o%

a sol$!ion o dis#esion. (ashing has !he e%%ec! o% cleaning s$%aces. The es$l!ing e%%ec! is se"eal

#hysical> chemical #ocesses. 5amen! washing is !he bes! !o$ch o% a gamen!. 8ame !y#e o% gamen!scan #od$ce se"eal e%%ec!s %o se"eal wash. To cea!e wash loo* a##eaance- seems !he new !o$ch o%

%ashion.

8o- The !echnology which is $sed !o modi%y !he a##eaance- o$!loo* com%o! abili!y ) %ashion o% !he

gamen!s is called gamen! washing.

.G.1 PURPO8E O6 5ARENT (A8HIN5

P$#ose o% washing>'es! wash loo* is !he bes! !o$ch o% a gamen! 2This may be e+#lained in !he

%ollowing way2

(ashing #ocess o% gamen! is done !o cea!e wash loo* a##eaance. A%!e washing !he gamen!scea!e a new loo*s which seems !he new !o$ch o% %ashion.

'y !he washing !echni4$e- %aded>old loo*- colo o !in!ed a%%ec! is cea!ed in !he gamen! whichalso seems !he bes! !o$ch o% gamen!s.

(ashing !echni4$e cea!e new %ashion s$ch as !agging- ginding- des!oy- 'las!ing- whis*eing-

#emanen! win*le- dee# dye- !ie dye- # .# s#ay- hand ca##ing- #.# s#ooning e!c. (hich is alsoseems !he bes! !o$ch o% gamen!s.

The main and im#o!an! %$nc!ion o% washing is !o ed$ce si,e ma!eials as a es$l! !he gamen!become si,e %ee and become so%! hand %eel.

(hen !hese so%! gamen!s ae !o$ched !hen i! seems !o bes! !o$ch o% gamen!s.

To a!!ac!ion !he c$s!omes>'$ye by di%%een! !y#es o% 6ashionable washing and ma*e!de"elo#men!s.

D$e !o washing- shin*age occ$s in !he gamen!s. Thee is no #ossibili!y o% %$!he shin*age o%wash gamen!s.

Any di!- s#o! o gem i% added in !he gamen!s d$ing man$%ac!$ing is also emo"ed d$e !owashing.

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.G. E66ECT8 O6 5ARENT8 (A8HIN5

1. Change !he a##eaance o% !he gamen!s.

. Change in si,e.

?. Change in colo.

. Change o$!loo* o% !he gamen!s.. Change in com%o!.

B. Change in design.

@. Change in %ashion- e!c.

.G.? /IITATION8 O6 5ARENT8 (A8HIN5

/i*e o!he #ocesses !he gamen!s washing is also no! wi!ho$! some limi!a!ions. They incl$ded as

below2

Grmen#s si/e '&nge*8i,e change !a*es #lace d$e !o shin*age #o#e!ies o% %abic. The

amo$n! o% shin*age #o#e!ies o% %abic de!emines !he si,e change o% !he gamen!s.

)i/e m#eril is -r#ly remo2e"* Un%i+ed dyes may emain on !he s$%ace o% !he gamen!s and

i! is necessay !o emo"e com#le!ely a%!e washing.

.10 DENI (A8HIN5

Denim washing is aes!he!ic %inish gi"en !o denim %abic !o enhance !he demand and !o #o"ide s!eng!h.Dy denim as o##osed !o washed denim is a denim %abic !ha! is no! washed a%!e being dyed d$ing i!s

#od$c!ion.

$ch o% !he a##eal o% dy denim lies in !he %ac! !ha! wi!h !ime %abic will %ade in a manne simila !o !ha!

which a!i%icially dis!essed denim a!!em#!s !o e#lica!e. (i!h dy denim howe"e s$ch %ading is a%%ec!ed

by !he body o% !he #eson who weas &eans and !he ac!i"i!ies o% !hei daily li%e. This cea!es wha! many

%ell !o be moe na!$al- $ni4$e loo* !han #e dis!essed denim.

I! is a new !echnology by which o$!loo*; si,e; com%o! abili!y and %ashion o% a gamen! ae changed o

modi%ied. This !echnology was %is! a##eaed in 'angladesh in 1G99.'e%oe !ha! washing was caied o$!only in Hong ong and 8inga#oe - i.e. a%!e sewing gamen!s wee sen! !o aboad %o washing and again

bo$gh! hee bac* %o %inishing - !agging and #ac*ing . As a es$l!- e+!a o"ehead cos!


22/51

T4EC4ANGE)OCCURDUETOT4EFOLLOWINGACTION)*

1. echanical > $bbing > abasion be!ween gamen!s !o gamen!s.. 5amen!s !o machine; and

?. Chemical ac!ion

.10.1 TPE8 O6 DENI (A8HIN5

Denim washes ae o% %ollowing !wo !y#e K

1. Chemical washes

Denim bleaching

En,yme wash

Acid wash

1. echanical washes

8!one wash

ico sanding

.10. AYOR PROCE88 8TEP8 O6 DENI (A8HIN5

1. Pe2!ea!men!


23/51

.11 '/EACH (A8HIN5

'leach wash o ligh! s!one wash e%es !o ligh! bl$e shades o% denim. The addi!ional s!e# is bleaching!o

s!one wash. This bleaching is $s$ally caied o$! by s!ong o+idi,ing agen!s. In ind$s!y- mos! widely

$sed chemicals ae sodi$m hy#o2chloi!e- calci$m hy#o2chloi!e- hydogen #e o+ide and #o!assi$m

#emanga!e.

.11.1 O'YECT8 O6 '/EACH (A8H

Inceasing !he degee o% whi!eness.

D$e !o washing- shin*age occ$s in !he gamen!s. Thee is no #ossibili!y o% %$!he shin*age o%

wash gamen!s.

Remo"al o% coloed im#$i!ies.

'y !he bleach washing !echni4$e- %aded>old loo*- colo o !in!ed a%%ec! is cea!ed in !he gamen!

which also seems !he bes! !o$ch o% gamen!s.

To cea!e new %ashion s$ch as !agging- ginding- des!oy- 'las!ing- whis*eing- #emanen!

win*le- dee# dye- !ie dye- # .# s#ay- hand ca##ing- #. # s#ooning e!c. (hich is also seems !he

bes! !o$ch o% gamen!s.

To achie"e b$ye washing s!andad.

.11. TPE8 O6 '/EACHIN5 A5ENT8

A bleaching agen! is a s$bs!ance !ha! can whi!en o decoloi,e o!he s$bs!ances. 'leaching agen!s

essen!ially des!oy chomos#hees

absobing go$#s. Th$s- bleaches can be classi%ied as ei!he o+idi,ing agen!s o ed$cing agen!s

Ty-e of +le'&ing Agen#s

a. O+ida!i"e 'leaching Agen!s

b. Red$c!i"e 'leaching Agen!s

c. En,yma!ic 'leaching Agen!s

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.11.? '/EACHIN5

'leaching is chemical !ea!men! em#loyed %o !he emo"al o% na!$al coloing ma!!e %om !he s$bs!a!e.

The so$ce o% na!$al colo is oganic com#o$nds wi!h con&$ga!ed do$ble bonds - by doing chemica

bleaching !he discoloa!ion !a*es #lace by !he bea*ing !he chomos#hees - mos! li*ely des!oying !he

one o moe do$ble bonds wi!h in !his con&$ga!ed sys!em. The ma!eial a##eas whi!e a%!e !he

bleaching.

Na!$al %ibes- i.e. co!!on-wool- linen e!c. ae o%%2whi!e in colo d$e !o colo bodies #esen! in !he %ibe.

The degee o% o%%2whi!eness "aies %om ba!ch2!o2ba!ch. 'leaching !hee%oe can be de%ined as !he

des!$c!ion o% !hese colo bodies. (hi!e is also an im#o!an! ma*e! colo so !he whi!es! whi!e has

commecial "al$e. ellow is a com#onen! o% dei"ed shades. 6o e+am#le- when yellow is mi+ed wi!h

bl$e- !he shade !$ns geen. A consis!en! whi!e base %abic has eal "al$e when dyeing ligh! !o medi$m

shades beca$se i! is m$ch easie !o e#od$ce shade ma!ches on a consis!en! whi!e bac*go$nd !han on

one !ha! "aies in amo$n! o% yellow.

'leaching may be !he only #e#aa!oy #ocess o i! may be $sed in con&$nc!ion wi!h o!he !ea!men!s-

e.g. desi,ing- sco$ing and mecei,ing. The combina!ion o% s$ch !ea!men!s %o an indi"id$al si!$a!ion

will de#end on !he igoo$sness o% !he #e#aa!ion s!andad and economic %ac!os wi!hin !he "aio$s

o#!ions. O!he chemicals will be $sed in addi!ion !o !he bleaching agen!. These se"e "aio$s %$nc!ions

s$ch as !o ac!i"a!e !he bleaching sys!em- !o s!abili,e o con!ol !he a!e o% ac!i"a!ion- !o gi"e we!!ing and

de!egen! ac!ion- o !o se4$es!e me!allic im#$i!ies. This sec!ion gi"es considea!ion !o !he selec!ion o%

bleaching agen!s and !o !he ole o% !he "aio$s chemicals $sed in con&$nc!ion.

The #$#ose o% bleaching is !o emo"e coloed im#$i!ies %om !he %ibe and incease !he whi!eness le"el

o% %abic.

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25/51

.1 6UNCTION O6 CHEICA/8 IN DE8IIN5 AND '/EACH (A8HIN5

7)ODA A)4*

8oda ash cea!es al*aline medi$m %o !he bea*down o% #igmen! dye. 8oda ash hel# !o $ni%ombleaching ac!ion on bleach ba!h. I! has a cleaning #owe and hel# colo %ading a%%ec! o% gamen!. I! is

$sed also %o colo %i+ing in dye ba!h.

JANTI)TAIN*

An!i2s!ains $sed !o #e"en! !he s!aining on we%! yan o% !he denim


26/51

CHAPTER ?

EXPERIMENTAL



27/51

?.1 (ORIN5 P/ACE

1. Indigo (ashing /!d.

?. RA( ATERIA/8


28/51

?.? EPERIENTA/

?.?.1 8AP/E NO01


29/51

FOURT4 )TEP*6 GA) DR,ER.

2 Tem#ea!$e 90[c.

2 Time ?0 min$!e %o dy.

2 Time 10 min$!e %o cold dy.

?.?.? 8AP/E NO0?

Desi/e" n" +le'& !i#& sof# !s& s men#ione" (elo!*6

RECIPE

FIR)T )TEP*6DE)I8ING

2 (a!e 0 li!es.

2achine R$nning

2 Tem#ea!$e B0[c

2 8oda Ash 0 gm

2 An!i 'ac* 8!aining Agen! 1 gm

2 Time 1 min$!e.

2 /i4$o Do#

)ECOND )TEP*64OT WA)4

2 (a!e 0 li!es.

2 Tem#ea!$e B0[c.

2 Time min$!e



30/51

T4IRD )TEP*6+LEAC4ING

2(a!e 0 li!es.

2achine $nning.2'leaching #owde


31/51

CHAPTER 0

RE)ULT) AND DI)CU))ION



32/51

.1 6O//O(IN5 TE8T8 ARE DONE

1. 58 eas$emen!

. Co$n! eas$emen!

?. 8!i%%ness eas$emen!

. EPI ) PPI eas$emen!

. R$bbing 6as!ness eas$emen!

.1.1 58 EA8UREENT

)m-le

no

)m-le "e#ils G)M

2l$es

A2g

G)M

Remr5s

1 Raw sam#le


33/51

.1.1.1 5RAPH 6OR 58

392

394

396

398

400

402404

Without

wash

Desized

sample

(Desized

+Bleach )

Sample

Sample Fo !S"

.1.1. COENT8

58 is highe while washing wi!h Desi,ing and bleaching agen! !han o!hes.

58 is lowe %o $ndesi,ed washing sam#le !han o!hes.

/ess di%%eence be!ween desi,ed and bleach sam#le.

.1. COUNT EA8UREENT

)m-le

no

)m-le

"e#ils

Wr- Co$n#

9 in Ne;

A2g

Co$n#

9in Ne;

Wef# Co$n#

9in Ne ;

A2g Co$n#

9in Ne;

1 Raw sam#le


34/51

.1..1 5RAPH 6OR (ARP COUNT

6#4

6#6

6#8$

$#2

$#4

$#6$#8

8

Without

wash

Desized

sample

(Desized

+Bleach

) Sample

Sample Fo wap cou%t

.1.. 5RAPH 6OR (E6T COUNT

6

6#2

6#4

6#66#8

$

Without

wash

Desized

sample

(Desized

+Bleach

) Sample

Sample Fo We't cou%t

.1..? COENT8

'leach wash ca$ses %ine co$n!.

ey small "aia!ion in co$n! %o di%%een! washing.



35/51

Co$n! is highe %o $ndesi,ed sam#le.

.1.? 8TI66NE88 EA8UREENT

)m-le

no

)m-le

"e#ils

Wr-

)#iffness

9 in'&;

A2g

)#iffness

9in'&;

Wef#

)#iffness

9in'&;

A2g )#iffness

9in'&;

1 Raw sam#le


36/51

.1.?. 5RAPH 6OR 8TI66NE88 < (E6T (A =

#3

#3&

#4

#4&

#&

#&&

#6

#6&

#$

#$&

Without

wash

Desized

sample

(Desized

+Bleach )

Sample

Sample Fo We't Sti''%ess

.1.?.? COENT8

8!i%%ness ed$ces a%!e washing.

The s!i%%ness has no! changed no!iceably.

I! can be said !ha! washing do no! occ$ h$ge change in s!i%%ness #o#e!y.

8!i%%ness is moe in $ndesi,ed sam#le.

8!i%%ness is less in bleach washing.



37/51

.1. EPI ) PPI EA8UREENT

)m-le

no

)m-le

"e#ils

EPI A2g

EPI

PPI A2g

PPI

1 Raw sam#le


38/51

.1.. 5RAPH 6OR PPI

38

39

40

4

42

43

44

Without

wash

Desized

sample

(Desized +

Bleach )

Sample

Sample Fo **

.1..? COENT8

EPI o% !he sam#les "aies %om @1 !o @.

PPI o% !he sam#les "aies %om 0 !o .

EPI ) PPI can be changed d$e !o shin*age.



39/51

.1. RU''IN5 6A8TNE88 EA8UREENT

)m-le

no

)m-le

"e#ils

Wr- R$((ing

Fs#ness

Wef# R$((ing

Fs#ness

Dry We# Dry We#

1 Raw

sam#le

? ?> >?

Desi,ed?> >? ?

?

Desi,ed'

leach

?>

? >

.1..1 5RAPH 6OR RU''IN5 6A8TNE88


40/51

0

0#&

#&

2

2#&

3

3#&

4

Without

wash

Desized

Sample

(Desized +

Bleached )

Sample

D, Sample

Wet Sample

.1..? COENT8

R$bbing %as!ness inceases a%!e washing.

R$bbing %as!ness is moe in bleach washing.

R$bbing %as!ness is less in $ndesi,ed sam#le.



41/51

CHAPTER

CONCLU)ION



42/51

.0 CONC/U8ION

5amen! washing is being done %o !he las! 0 yeas in di%%een! co$n!ies ao$nd !he wold. '$! in

'angladesh i! was %is! de"elo#ed in 1G99. 'e%oe !his- washing was done in Hong ong- i.e. a%!e

sewing gamen!s ae sen! !o Hong ong %o washing and !hen again im#o!ed hee bac* %o %inishing

and #ac*ing #$#oses. 8o- e+!a o"ehead cos!


43/51

CHAPTER B

APPENDIX



44/51

.1 DE8IIN5Pro'ess )e$en'e of Desi/ing 6

a. 8am#le

b. Add wa!e

c. achine R$n

d. 8oda Ash

e. An!i2bac* 8!aining Agen!

%. 1 min >C $n

g. Rinse !ime

. '/EACH (A8HE8 (ITH DE8IIN5Pro'ess )e$en'e of +le'& Ws& !i#& Desi/ing 6

a. 8am#le

b. Add wa!e

c. achine R$n

d. 8oda Ash

e. An!i2bac* 8!aining Agen!

%. 1 min >C $n

g. Ho! wash

h. Add wa!e

i. achine R$n

&. 'leaching Powde


45/51

.? 8O6T (A8H

Pro'ess )e$en'e of )of# Ws&6

a. 8am#le

b. Add wa!e

c. Ace!ic acid

d. 8o%!ene

e. achine R$n min

. HDROETRACTIN5

Pro'ess )e$en'e Of 4y"ro EB#r'#ing6

a. 8am#le

b. achine R$n %o min

. DRIN5

Pro'ess )e$en'e of Drying6

a. 8am#le

b. Tem# 90[c

c. achine R$n %o ?0 min

d. 10 min$!e %o cold dy



46/51

.B PROCE88 O6 /A' TE8T8

.B.1 58

The58 o% %abic is one *ind o% s#eci%ica!ion o% %abic which is "ey im#o!an! %o a !e+!ile enginee

%o $ndes!anding and #od$c!ion o% %abic. 58 means 5am #e s4$ae me!e !ha! is !he weigh! o%

%abic in gam #e one s4$ae me!e. 'y !his we can com#ae !he %abics in $ni! aea which is hea"ie

and which is ligh!e.

The weigh! o% a %abic can be e+#essed in !wo ways- ei!he as !he weigh! #e $ni! aea o !he weigh!

#e $ni! leng!h; !he %ome is sel% e+#lana!oy b$! !he la!!e e4$ies a li!!le e+#lana!ion beca$se !he

weigh! o% a $ni! leng!h o% %abic will ob"io$sly be a%%ec!ed by i!s wid!h. In wo"en %abic- !he weigh! #e

$ni! leng!h is $s$ally e%eed !o as !he weigh! #e $nning yad. I! is necessay !hee%oe !o *now !he

ageed s!andad wid!h $#on which !he weigh! #e $nning yad is based. Us$ally !his wid!h de#ends

$#on !he wid!h o% loom. 'e%oe coming !he !em 58 !hee was ano!he !em called lb>100 yads

This e+#ession is $sed by 'i!ish 8!andad. 6o meas$ing !his !hee ae a !em#la!e and a 4$adan!

balance. The !em#la!e aea is 1>100 s4$ae yads o% which each am is 1>10 yads in leng!h.

6o meas$ing 58- a 58 c$!!eis $sed !o c$! !he %abic and weigh! is !a*en in balance. 'o!h o% !hese

meas$emen! and me!hod is e4$ally $sed %o bo!h wo"en and *ni!!ed%abics.

APPARATU)

1. 5sm c$!!e

. Elec!ic 'alance.

PROCEDURE*

1. 6o eas$ing 58- we sho$ld c$! !he %abic sam#le by 58 c$!!e.

. Now weigh !hese sam#les by elec!ic balance in gams.

?. 'y !his way we ge! !he weigh! in gam #e one s4$ae me!e %abic.

. Hee 58 o% !he %abics by !he 58 c$!!e is ob!ained by !he m$l!i#lying !he sam#le weighwi!h 100.

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47/51

.B. COUNT

Co$n! is a n$meical "al$e- which e+#ess !he coaseness o %ineness a!io o% leng!h !o weigh!.

8o- The %ineness o% !he yan is $s$ally e+#essed in !ems o% i!s linea densi!y o co$n!.

Co!!on yan co$n! is meas$ed by English co$n!. N$mbe o% 90 yads in 1 lb is called English co$n!.

90 yads is called 1 han*. 8o in ano!he way- English co$n! is2N$mbe o% han* #e #o$nd.Englishco$n! is e+#essed by Ne.

Ne N$mbe o% Han*

/b

APPARATU)*

1. 'eesly balance

. Tem#la!e

?.1> co!!on ide

. 6$ll co!!on ide

PROCEDURE*

1. A! %is! sam#le is !a*en and wi!h !he hel# o% !em#la!e i! is c$! in!o V co!!on and %$ll co!!on.

. Then some V co!!on ae #$! on !he igh! side o% !he basely balance and !he V co!!on ide on !he le%! side o% !he

'alance

?. 'y inceasing o deceasing !he n$mbe o% V co!!on yans !he machine is balanced.

. Co$n! was !he !o!al n$mbe o% V co!!on yan. The same #ocess is done !imes wi!h di%%een! V co!!on yan.

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48/51

.B.? 8TI66NE888!i%%ness is a s#ecial#o#e!y o% %abic.I! is !he !endency o% %abic !o *ee# s!anding wi!ho$! any s$##o!.

I! is a *ey %ac!o in !he s!$dy o% handle and da#e o% %abic.

8hiley 8!i%%ness Tes!e

A ec!ang$la s!i# o% %abic- B in. + 1 in.- is mo$n!ed on a hoi,on!al #la!%om in s$ch a way !ha! i! o"e

change- li*e a can!ile"e- and bends downwads.

Thee s#ecimens in wa# way and !hee in we%! ae $s$ally !es!ed and since he ela!i"e h$midi!y can

a%%ec! !he es$l!s !he !es! sho$ld be made in a s!andad !es!ing a!mos#hee. The hoi,on!al #la!%om o% !he

ins!$men! is s$##o!ed by !wo side #ieces made o% #las!ic. A!!ached !o !he ins!$men! is a mio which

enables !he o#ea!o !o "iew bo!h inde+ lines %om a con"enien! #osi!ion.

The scale o% !he ins!$men! is gad$a!ed in cen!ime!es o% bending leng!h and i! also se"es as !he

!em#la!e %o c$!!ing !he s#ecimens !o si,e.

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49/51

APPARATU)*

1. 8!i%%ness Tes!e. 8cisso

?. 8cale

MC )PECIFICATION*

Name 8hiley 8!i%%ness Tes!e

PROCEDURE*

1. To cay o$! a !es! !he s#ecimen is c$! !o si,e B in. + 1 in. wi!h !he aid o% !he !em#la!e.

. 'o!h !he !em#la!e and s#ecimen ae !ans%eed !o !he #la!%om wi!h !he %abic $ndenea!h.

?. Now bo!h ae slowly #$shed %owad.

. The s!i# o% !he %abic will commence !o doo# o"e !he edge o% !he #la!%om and !he mo"emen! o% !he

!em#la!e and !he %abic is con!in$ed $n!il !he !i# o% !he s#ecimen "iewed in !he mio c$!s bo!h inde+

lines.

. The bending leng!h can immedia!ely be ead o%% %om !he scale ma* o##osi!e a ,eo line enga"ed on

!he side o% !he #la!%om.

B. Each s#ecimen is !es!ed %o$ !imes- a! each end and again wi!h !he s!i# !$ned o"e.

@. In !his way !hee sam#les ae !es!ed.

9. 6inally mean "al$es %o !he bending leng!h in wa# and we%! diec!ions can be calc$la!ed.

.B. EPI ) PPI

EPI means End #e Inch ) PPI means #ic*s #e inch.

They can be meas$ed man$ally.

APPARATU)

Co$n!ing 5lass

Needle

PROCEDURE

A! %is! some yans ae loosen o$! and magni%ying !he yans by co$n!ing glass !he EPI and PPI ae

co$n!ed man$ally



50/51

.B. RU''IN5 6A8TNE88

A %as!ness is a #lace- s$ch as a cas!le- which is consideed sa%e beca$se i! is di%%ic$l! !o each o easy !o

de%end agains! a!!ac*. This !es! is designed !o de!emine !he degee o% colo which may be !ans%eed

%om !he s$%ace o% a coloed %abic !o a s#eci%y !es! clo!h %o $bbing


51/51

RE6ERENCE8

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