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Around South America – Report #11 Bottom of the World – ‘How Low Can You Go?’ – Sat 4 – Mon, 6 Feb 2012 Sadly, we have departed the Antarctic Continent. We loved it here, as low on globe Earth as we have ever been . You might think that is the inspiration for our report sub-title, but, it is not. Stand by a moment while we pass on our impressions of Antarctica. “Treacherous and Beautiful”. Yes, that about sums it up. “Treacherous” describes Antarctica in numerous senses. An abundance of plant nutrients in up-welling polar water currents produce super-abundant plankton, which in turn produces super-abundant food for marine wildlife. Life is good here. Except… it is very cold, shorelines are rugged, and predators abound. Further, night-time last for months! In this ‘Nirvana’, one tiny error in judgement means death! Wildlife populations here live on a knife’s edge between prosperity and devastation. Changes in their environment – such as climate change – affect these circumpolar species more than in temperate regions of Earth. Adelie penguins, for example, are in serious trouble as ‘sea ice’ diminishes. Life in Antarctica is also treacherous for people. We are amazed at the resilience of early explorers such as Shackleton, Scott and Admundsen. Like the wildlife here, these guys must have been extraordinarily tough, and, smart. Without benefit of our modern technology, such as thermal clothing, navigation aids, and diesel-powered steel-reinforced ships, these men, and those that followed, made astounding accomplishments, contributing much to the knowledge of mankind. Emerging from the comforts of our luxury ship, into this harsh, cold environment, we truly appreciate the endurance of men working rope riggings of the frail sailing ships that first explored this continent. In contrast, this landscape is astoundingly beautiful as we cruise along the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula. At the right, see a wall of blue glacial ice before us, perhaps 1 or 2 hundred vertical feet, about to collapse into the sea. Carved by wind and water, floating icebergs take on magical and colourful forms. The beauty is endless as each new burg appears. And atop many bergs, penguins, taking a break from feeding or escaping predators. Photographing chin-strap penguins on one berg, we only later see in our pictures the tall dorsal fin of an orca (killer whale) sticking up out of the water. No wonder there are so many penguins on the ice. On the ice they found safe sanctuary – at least for a moment. At times when it is safer for penguin survival, we watch with pleasure large numbers cavorting along-side our ship. With each stroke of their flippers they become momentarily airborne. Apparently that ‘porpoising’ swimming technique is more energy-efficient travel for penguins. We are told, in the world there are about 17 species of penguins, and here in Antarctica we get to see 3; – adelie, chinstrap and gentoo species. (You may recall from Report #5, in General San Martin, Peru, we saw Magellanic penguins on the Ballista Islands,) Once afloat, sculpted by wind and water, some bergs take on beautiful whimsical forms. Making our way along the coast of the Antarctic Peninsula, heading towards it most northerly tip, we had hoped for a change in weather. It did change. Captain Tim informs us ‘on the ship’s bridge the barometric pressure has fallen off the bottom of one of the barometers’. He says, in the northern hemisphere he has not before seen such a low air pressure. How low can it go? You may recall we rushed out of Ushuaia to escape the storm brewing over Cape Horn. Apparently that storm has intensified. We are now racing for the sanctuary of the Falkland Islands attempting to beat the storm’s arrival. It is forecast to arrive there about the same time as our ship. As we write, Princendam is tossing us about like balls in a pinball arcade game. Rolling side-to-side is ameliorated by our ship’s stabilizers. However, the pitching of the bow, up and down, as it crashes into large swell is quite dramatic. Typing this report is cumbersome in such vigorous motion. We will let this excerpt of our Captian’s letter tell the tale. The old adage, ‘Be careful what you wish for!’ applies to these last few days. Bob and Kerrell wished for adventure on the high seas, and we got it. While missing family back home, we are LOVING this cruise, feeling privileged to see marvellous parts of the world new to us, and meeting wonderful people; fellow passengers, ship’s staff, and, residents in our ports-of-call! ‘Till next we have the pleasure of seeing you, love to all, Bob & Kerrell http://lincolnshome.wordpress.com/
