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Art Caddy Tote (1)

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    Thank you so much for purchasing the Art Caddy PDF Pattern! I love for my kids to draw andcreate as much as they want. Unfortunately this often means dragging papers, crayons, stickers,scissors, and pencils all over the house. I was cleaning all this up for the 100th time and thisidea came to me- make an organizer for all their art in one place! Make a couple of these andeach kid can move their personal art station all over the house and then pack it back up to moveagain!

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    Here are a few things that I dont include in the instructions because I assume you will do themthroughout this project...*Make a habit of doing a short backstitch at the beginning and end of each line you sew.*Whenever you finish sewing a section, clip your threads.*Measure 3 times and cut once! Being precise and careful when cutting out your pattern willmake everything fit together and work nicely.

    Materials needed...

    cotton Material (quilt weight is best) 1/2 yard for exterior (or 3/4 yard if you are making bag all one print) 1/4 yard for contrasting pockets (if you choose) 1/2 yard for interior2 yards of 20 wide fusible interfacing- medium weight1 yard thick heavy double sided fusible interfacing (almost like cardboard but bends)heavy duty or jeans sewing machine needlesewing machineiron & ironing board1/4 yard cotton all natural battingcoordinating threadpencil, pen & chalkscissors, rotary cutter and self healing mat12 ruler48 of 1 wide grosgrain ribbon (or make fabric handles with 2 pieces of 12 x 4 cotton fabric)

    Instructions...

    1. Begin by cutting out all the pattern pieces using your rotary cutter and self healing mat.You will need to make decisions about fabric coordinating here. See Figure 1 for how I did it. Itis really important to do a good job here and make sure you are accurate. This should take youawhile! I know its a lot of pieces but we need to make it nice and thick to stand up to all thosecoloring books!

    Start with the exterior base pieces (A, B, & C).. Be sure to cut all pieces with the grain! Fusematching interfacing to each piece. Now lay matching cotton batting behind each piece. Setaside for a moment on a table so you can start to layer your pockets on top.

    2. Now you need to construct the pockets. Start with the side pockets. You should have 2pieces of cotton from pattern piece D. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of each piece. Tomake the top edge of the pocket, fold the top edge under 1/4, press, then fold it again 1/2and press. Sew the top down about 3/8 from top edge. Repeat this process on the other Dpiece and also the two E pieces.

    These 4 pocket pieces can now be layered on top of the two side pieces (B from pattern). Youwill see that the next several steps are all about layering! First line up D matching the bottom

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    edge of B. Then place E on top, again lining up from the bottom on top of D which is on topof B! Take some pins and secure these layers together. Make sure everything is lying flat andfits together. Trim excess using piece B as guide if you need to so all pieces match. Frombottom to top it should be cotton batting, fused piece B, fused piece D & fused piece E. SeeFigure 1.

    Now to do the pockets on the front A pieces. You should have 2 pieces of cotton frompattern piece F. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of each piece. This is going to be the samemethod as above in which you fold over the long top edge 1/4 and again 1/2 and then press.The only difference is that you also fold under the long bottom edge 1/4 and iron. Sew a line3/8 from the top edge. Leave the bottom un sewn for now. Both pieces F are done the same.Place one of these F pieces 3 up from what is the bottom of one of the layered A pieces(layered with the cotton batting underneath the already fused piece of cotton fabric). Sew the

    AA

    B

    B

    C

    D

    D

    E

    E

    FFG

    FIGURE 1

    Layer D on top of B & then Eon top of D- pin to hold in

    place but dont sew BDE to Cuntil step 3.

    3

    1/8seama

    llowance

    This photo is to show you how allthe layers come together. Youwill layer together each side inStep 2 and then sew the sides(A & B) to the base C in Step 3

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    bottom edge of the F pocket onto the A pieces with an 1/8 seam. See figure 1 on the left side.Set this piece aside.

    The crayon pocket is next. Take your piece of cotton cut from pattern piece G and iron it inhalf with wrong sides together. This gives you a nice crease down the middle to guide you. Thisfolded piece is your guide to cut a piece of interfacing. Cut a corresponding piece of interfacingbut this piece needs to be 1/4 shorter than the folded piece G. Open G back up and turn over

    to the wrong side. Using that center crease you just made as a guide, iron on the interfacingpiece. See Figure 2 as your guide. Now fold G in half again but with RIGHT sides facing.

    Pin and sew closed to make a tube - use the line created by the fused on interfacing as a guide soyou will have a 1/4 seam. Turn this tube right side out and iron flat. Sew a seam 1/8 from

    the top edge (the original middle crease edge) to give it some definition. Figure 3 will guide youto sew on the crayon pocket. Take your remaining F pocket. The top of the pocket, with thedouble fold, should already be sewn down. You will place the G pocket on top of the F pocketabout a 1/4 from the bottom of the F pocket. Pin in place and sew the bottom of the G

    FIGURE 2

    FIGURE 3

    center crease

    interfacing piece

    wrong side of G

    1/4 frombottom

    G

    F

    A

    2.252.25

    G is sewn onto F first, thenboth pockets are sewn onto A

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    pocket on about an 1/8 from the edge- the blue line in Figure 3. Remove pins. Now measureover from the left edge 2.5 and sew a straight vertical line between the two already sewnhorizontal lines- the green line in Figure 3. Use chalk if you need as a guide to make a nicestraight stitch here. Move over 2.25 from center and sew another vertical line (purple in figure3). Move 2.25 to the other side of center and sew another vertical line (pink!). Now take thispocket (G stitched onto F) and place it 3 from the bottom edge of your remaining A piece (A isalready fused with interfacing and a layer of cotton batting underneath!). Sew the bottom edge

    of the F pocket onto the A pieces with an 1/8 seam- white line in Figure 3. Now using thatmiddle line you already sewed on the G pocket as your guide, sew a vertical line 4.75 betweenthe two horizontal lines sewn on F- yellow line in Figure 3. Crayon pocket complete!

    3. Take the side sections, (B) turn them over and using your ruler and pencil, draw a line onthe cotton batting a 1/2 from one side going vertically the length of the piece. Now draw oneon the bottom 1/2 from bottom edge, the whole length horizontally and crossing over thevertical line you just drew. Now another on the other side, 1/2 from the side and the entirelength vertically. Last one on the top, 1/2 from top and crossing over the 2 vertical lines. See

    figure 4.

    Figure 4 is a picture ofthe lining pieces withtheir lines drawn. Youcan see how the linesmake boxes 1/2 boxesin each corner. Theselines are important toguide you when you are

    sewing and the boxestell you when to stopinstead of going all theway to the edge. Drawthe lines on the othercotton batting side pieceB and also on thebottom piece C. Thereis no need to do the A

    panels.

    While you have out your pencil and ruler, go ahead and draw the lines on the lining pieces of B& C too. Set these aside until after you have finished the exterior work.

    With RIGHT sides facing, and all those layers together, pin together the bottom exterior A tobottom long side of C. Using the pencil line as your guide, sew between the boxes on eitherend. See Figure 5. Dont go all the way to the end! Remove the pins. Move over to the otherlong side and pin the other A onto C with right sides facing, and again sew between the boxes.Remove pins.

    FIGURE 4

    B pieces of lining

    C piece of lining

    you can see herethe 1/2 boxescreated by drawingyour pencil lines.

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    Now attach the two sides B to the attached A pieces and C doing the same thing as describedabove. Again, sew in between the boxes, using the lines as your guide. Since the lines are drawnon both B & C. it doesnt matter which side you sew on. Now your pieces should look likeFigure 1 when you lay it all out.

    5. Before you sew up the side pieces, you need to trim the seams you just created to a little lessthen 1/4 and press them out as best you can. Next trim off a 1/2 of the cotton batting on the

    top edges. Use that top line you drew before on the B pieces to guide you. Draw another line onthe top edge of the A batting pieces 1/2 from the top edge. Trim this off too. This is toremove bulk from the top of the caddy when you sew it all together.

    6. Pin the long sides of the A and B pieces together and using the vertical line drawn earlieras your guide, sew up the 4 sides- all the way to the top but only sew to the edge of the little boxat the bottom corner. This should work nicely if you use the boxes as your guide! Trim awayexcess along the seams to a little less than 1/4 and press the seams out as best you can. Turnthe bag out. Make sure you have caught all the pockets and there are no obvious bumps ormistakes showing.

    7. Next you need to cut out the heavy duty double sided interfacing. Take your ruler and penand cut out the following 5 pieces: two pieces that are 8.5 wide and 9.75 tall (corresponds with A pieces) two pieces that are 5 wide and 9.75 tall (corresponds with B pieces) one piece that is 5 x 8.5.(corresponds with C piece)Once you have cut these out, you will need to fuse the pieces to the bag you just created. Bepatient with this and if you need to make size adjustments by cutting the interfacing piecessmaller so they fit well onto the sides, dont be afraid to do so!

    Start with the bottom C piece. Place the piece in, rough side down and plastic lined side up.Hold it in place with your hand as you turn the bag over and place it on the ironing board.Remove your hand (!!) and iron the bottom of the bag to adhere the interfacing. I know thedirections call for using a wet cloth and keeping it on wool setting, but since you are goingthrough all those layers, keep your iron setting on the highest.

    This is not going to fuse perfectly but it should be pretty good. Next move to the side pieces.Make sure you fit them in carefully, trimming the interfacing a little if needed. They should lineup with the cotton batting pretty well. Use the rounded end of the ironing board. Dont spend

    FIGURE 5

    start & stop your stitchingwhere your pencil lines

    meet

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    tons of time on this and get yourself all frustrated (I speak from experience). There are enoughlayers built into the box that a little imperfection is not going to make a difference. What isimportant is that there is enough fabric on the top edge to fold over and make a nice top seam.

    Remove the plastic after it has cooled. Pin that top edge of fabric over the heavyweightinterfacing. Very lightly iron it down over the edge of the interfacing. See Figure 6. Dont ironthe interfacing! It might

    not adhere perfectly butthats fine for now as longas its a guide for youlater when you areputting in the lining.

    8. Now sew together thelining pieces just like youdid the exterior pieces.

    Use those lines you drewas a guide. Start with theA pieces and C. Sew in-between the boxes! Trimthe seams and iron themout flat. Then move onto attaching the B piecesto C. Finally sew up thesides all the way to thetop. Trim the seams

    down to less than 1/4.Iron the seams out flat.Do not turn out. Now iron the top edge over 1/2 all the way around the top edge. Insert pinsto hold the edge down. See Figure 6. Set aside for a minute while you make the handles.

    9. Making the handles from ribbon is so easy! Cut your 48 length of ribbon in half. Fold theselengths of 24 in half and pin the sides together evenly. Sew along the sides, about 1/8 fromthe edge, to secure the sides together. Now repeat with the other length of ribbon. Reallyyou can do any type of handle that you want that is about 12 in length and 1 wide, but I like

    this because with all the steps you are taking in making this, you deserve a break! Pin thehandles to the inside edge of the exterior piece, about 1.5 from the corner on the A piece,going upward like how they look when the caddy is finished.

    To create fabric handles, fold your 12 x 4 piece of fabric in half lengthwise- right sides facingout. Then open it up and fold the 2 long edges in to meet at that center crease. Fold it in halfagain and pin. Sew down the long side and up the other other long side. You can also addfusible interfacing to the center section to give the handles a more sturdy feel.

    thick interfacing isfused in pieces to all

    4 sides and thebottom

    top edge isironed down &

    pinned in place.

    FIGURE 6

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    10. Insert the lining into the Exterior piece. Poke your fingers down into the corners. Startpinning all around the top edge. Use those same pins you inserted to hold down the top edge ofthe exterior piece. Line up the two folded over edges as well as you can. The handles should besandwiched between them but coming out the top. The lining and exterior should fit welltogether but if there is a problem, make adjustments to get the interior smaller or larger.Keeping the interior pinned, take your caddy over to the ironing board and iron the lining byinserting the iron into the caddy as well as you can. It will fuse to the stiff interfacing. I start on

    an A side and move around slowly. If you dont get every nook and cranny, dont worry. This isgoing to be filled up will papers and coloring books very soon! The coloring books will help thefabric settle into place.

    Make any adjustment to the top edge if you need to, and sew around the top edge with a 1/4edge. Go slowly and sew through all the layers- It looks nice to have the lining fabric slightlybelow the exterior fabric.

    Stand back and admire your lovely art caddy! Fill itup with your kids art supplies and at least for a day the

    art mess will be cleaned up!

    Some ideas for the Art Caddy...

    Spray it with scotch guard all over before you give itthe kids to help keep it clean.

    For a special gift, fill it with art supplies and give itaway to your favorite kid.

    Play around with the pocket sizes and use it toorganize your own craft supplies!

    Embellish with rick rack, buttons, appliqu, orwhatever interests you!

    If you are a good fabric coordinator, make everypiece different for a patchwork look.

    You do have permission to sell the art caddies you make from thispattern on a small handmade scale. Please send me anemail [email protected] to let me knowyou are planning to sell and I will list you as aGingercake seller on my website.

    If you are going to sell online (such as on etsy or otherwebsites), please give me credit for the pattern. The wording should be art tote pattern byVirginia Lindsay of Gingercake Patterns or if you sell on etsy, art tote pattern by etsy memberginia18.

    Please do not share this paern- instead, please direct your friends and family to my shop topurchase one for themselves! Thank you so much for respecting the time and effort it took tocreate this paern.

    mailto:[email protected]:[email protected]:[email protected]
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    A1

    Cut2o

    fcoonfabricexterior

    Cut2ofmedium

    weightinterfa

    cing

    Cut

    2ofcoonbaing

    Cut2ofcoonfabricinterior(lining)

    Cuthere

    andattachwithtapetoA2

    The size of this pattern piece A is 9.5 x 11

    The Art Caddy is an original designby Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake

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    A2

    Cuthere

    andattachwithtapetoA1

    Please do not share this paern-instead, please direct your friendsand family to my shop to purchase

    one for themselves! Thank you somuch for respecting the time andeffort it took to create this paern.

    The Art Caddy is an original designby Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake

    The actual size of the

    paern pieces are given oneach page so you can checkthat your sizing is correct.

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    B1Cut 2 of coon fabric exterior

    Cut 2 of medium weight interfacing

    Cut 2 of coon baing

    Cut 2 of coon fabric interior (lining)

    B2

    Cute here and attach with tape to B2

    The size of this pattern piece B is 6 x 11

    The Art Caddy is an original designby Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake

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    CCut 1 of coon fabric exterior

    Cut 1 of medium weight interfacing

    Cut 1 of coon baing

    Cut 1 of coon fabric interior (lining)

    The size of this pattern piece C is 6 x 9.5

    The Art Caddy is an original designby Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake

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    DCut 2 of coon fabric exterior

    Cut 2 of medium weight interfacing

    The size of this pattern piece D is 6 x 9

    The Art Caddy is an original designby Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake

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    ECut 2 of coon fabric exterior

    Cut 2 of medium weight interfacing

    The size of this pattern piece E is 6 x 6.25

    The Art Caddy is an original designby Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake

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    F

    Cut2o

    fcoonfabricexterior

    Cut2ofmedium

    weightinterfa

    cing

    The size of this pattern piece F is 9.5 x 5.5

    The Art Caddy is an original designby Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake

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    GCut1o

    fcoonfabricexterior

    Cutmedium

    w

    eightinterfacingacco

    rdingto

    crayonpocketdirectionsinste

    p2

    The size of this pattern piece G is 9.5 x 5.5

    The Art Caddy is an original designby Virginia Lindsay of Gingercake


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