Important Information:Please inspect the plane before beginning to assemble to make sure you are happy
with it. After assembly has begun you cannot return the kit. If you find a problembefore beginning to assemble the plane you must contact us, please do not returnit to the dealer. Due to temperature changes the plane may develop some wrinklesin the covering that you will need to remove with an iron. Be sure to seal the edgesdown first so that you do not cause the covering to shrink and leave exposed areasof wood. The model is built light to ensure good flight characteristics. With thepower available from the new breed of engines, it is necessary to use throttle man-agement in order not to overstress the airframe. You must maintain good tight con-trol linkage with no slop, good servos with plenty of power, and good servo armsto protect against flutter. Sloppy linkage and overspeeding the plane will cause flut-ter which is not covered in the warranty. Lanier R/C is proud of the care and atten-tion that goes into the manufacture of parts for its model kits. The company war-rants that for a period of 30 days, it will replace, at the buyers request, any parts
or material shown to the company’s satisfaction to have been defective in workman-ship or material at the time of purchase.
No other warranty of any kind, expressed or implied, is made with respect to the merchandise sold by the company. The buyer acknowledges and understands that heis purchasing only a component kit from which the buyer will himself construct afinished flying model airplane. The company is neither the manufacturer of such aflying model airplane, nor a seller of it. The buyer hereby assumes the risk and all liability for personal or property damage or injury arising out of the buyers use of the components or the finished flying model airplane, whenever any such damageor injury shall occur.
Any action brought forth against the company, based on the breach of the contractof sale to the buyer, or on any alleged warranty there under, must be brought within 1year of the date of such sale, or there after be barred. This one year limita-tion is imposed by agreement of the parties as permitted by the laws of the stateof Georgia.
Introduction
Thank you for purchasing the Lanier R/C Giant Scale Stinger. Stinger. We are sure you will be happy with the quality of the kit and just as happy with the flying characteristics of the Stinger. Stinger. Because of the light weight and large wing area, the Stinger Stinger will accept a wide range of engines. With a glow engine such as the O.S. BGX1, the Stinger Stinger is as docile as a trainer. Install a 4.2 CID gas burner and it becomes an unlimited aerobatic machine.This makes the Stinger Stinger a perfect “first time” giant scale airplane. If this is your first giant
scale please pay attention to the way we recommend setting up the controls. Bigger doesfly better but some of the hardware used on small plane will not be suitable for a giant scale.
Start with one wing panel. Locate theaileron and trial fit them on the wing. Youwill need to determine which aileron is theleft and which is the right by trial fitting. Make sure all the hinges are aligned andthe aileron is flush with the wing tip. Nowlocate the other aileron and wing panel andfit the aileron. When you are satisfied withthe fit remove the aileron and lay thembehind the wing in the correct position.The Robart hinges work best if installed inboth wing and aileron at the same time.Apply a drop of oil in the hinge.Use 30minute epoxy to glue them in. A syringeworks great, if you don’t have one use a 1/8” dowel or piece of 3/32” wire toget the epoxy into the holes. With glue inthe holes, push the hinges in wing up tothe pin. Apply glue in the holes on theaileron and slide aileron into place. Workthe aileron up and down several times andthe Robart hinges will rotate into position.Make sure you have a tight fit between thewing trailing edge and aileron leading edge.Set aside to dry and install the otheraileron.
Locate the front and rear dihedral braces. Trial fit the front brace into the slot withthe holes toward the top surface of thewing. Locate the two 3/8”x 1-3/8” dowelsand make a mark 1/2” in from one end.Using an exacto knife, remove the covering
from the holes in the front of the wing.Insert the dowel in the hole and throughthe hole in the dihedral brace.
Trial fit the rear dihedral brace into itsslot.Now slide the other wing panel on the dihe-dral braces and insert dowel in hole.
Both dowels should go completely throughthe dihedral brace and leave 1/2” exposed.
When satisfied with fit and alignment,take the wings apart. Mix 3 ozs. of 30minute epoxy and apply a liberal amountto the root of both wings, both sides andthe edges of both dihedral braces, and intothe slots of both wings. Use a scrape pieceof wood to work the epoxy down into theslots in the wings. Slide the front dihedralbrace into place and apply epoxy in theholes for the 3/8” dowels and install dowel.Slide the other wing in place and installdowel. Use masking tape to hold the wingtogether till the epoxy cures. Check thetrailing edge of the wing and use a pin tomake sure it stays in perfect alignment.Lay the wing down on a flat surface till theepoxy cures, don’t stand it on one tip. Thiswill cause the epoxy to run to one end.
After the glue has cured, locate the wingbolt reinforcement plate and the two 6mmsocket head wing bolts. Use a knife andremove the covering on top and bottom ofthe wing over the pre-drilled wing boltholes. Insert the bolts through the rein-forcement plate and into the wing. Use amarking pen and out line the plate on thetop surface of the wing.
After marking the location of the plate,remove the covering by cutting about 1/8”inside the line you marked.
Do not glue the reinforcement plate inplace yet. Install the wing on the fuselage,lay the plate in place and insert the wingbolts threading them into the blind nuts inthe fuselage. If necessary ream the holes inthe wing until the bolts go in easily. Do notenlarge the holes in the reinforcementplate. When satisfied with the fit, apply acoat of epoxy to the reinforcement plateand bolt in place on the wing with the wing
in place on the fuselage. Be careful not toget too much glue causing the bolts to beglued in.
Tail Assembly
With the wing still on the fuselage, slidethe stab into the slot in rear of fuselage.Slide the fin into place making sure thetab on the bottom fits into the slot in thestab.
Use a yard stick to measure from the rearcorner of the stab to the front edge of theturtle deck. Move stab until this measure-ment is the same on both sides. Sight thestab, fin, wing alignment from the rear ofthe plane. The alignment can be changedslightly by pushing up or down on the stabtip. This is all that should be needed, but ifmore is needed you can sand the stab sad-dle till the alignment is perfect.
Remove stab and fin from fuselage andusing a razor blade, remove the coveringbetween the lines you just marked. Cutabout 1/8” inside your mark so bare woodwill not be exposed when glued in place.Cut carefully and cut only the covering,don’t cut the balsa underneath as thiswould weaken the stab and fin.
Level stab with respect to wing
Do the same with the fin. When happy withthe alignment, use a marking pen andmark a line on the stab, top and bottomand on both sides of the fuselage. Do thesame to both sides of the fin.
Using 30 minute epoxy, glue the stab andfin in place using the marks made earlierto align. Use masking tape to hold in placeif necessary. Check alignment and allowepoxy to cure.
Trial fit the elevators and rudder in place.Apply glue in the hinge holes and insert the hinges up to the pin as you did on thewing. Work the surfaces back and forthseveral time to make sure there are nobinds and check gap to make sure it istight.
Flying Wires
The flying wires are functional on theStingerStinger and must not be omitted. Locatethe 12 flying wire brackets and bend a 45degree angle on the end even with thenotch.
Attach the brackets to the stab and finwith six 4-40x 3/4” socket head screwsand aircraft lock nuts. Locate the pre-drilled holes in the stab and fin by measur-ing down approximately 2-3/4” from thetop of the fin and approximately 3/8” infrom the leading edge and trailing edge.Press down the covering and with a pinyou should be able to locate the hole.Remove the covering using a knife. On thestab measure in approximately 5-3/8”from the tip and approximately 3/8” infrom the leading and trailing edge.
You may need to run a 1/8” drill throughthe holes to open it up for the 4-40 bolt.
Attach brackets to both top and bottom ofstab. Locate the eight 2-56x15” rods, 2-56golden clevises, nylon swing in keepers,and clevis retainer clips. Screw the clevisapproximately half way on the threads ofthe 12” rod and attach to the bracket onthe fin.
Mark the rod at the point on the stabilizerbracket where it should be bent. Bend 90degrees and cut off at 3/8”. Insert into thebracket and attach the swing in keeper.
Install the other 3 wires on top in thesame manner. Be careful not to put pres-sure on any of the surfaces, after all thewires are installed we will adjust the ten-sion.
Align the bend of the tail wheel bracketeven with the back of the fuselage andmark the location of the hole. Drill a 3/32”pilot hole for the screws.
Using two #6x3/4” sheet metal screws,screw the tail wheel bracket in place withthe flying wire bracket underneath thefront screw.
Bend the flying wire bracket down to anangle of about 30 degrees, where the wiresline up with the out board brackets.
Using the other four 2-56 rods, attachthe golden clevis to the flying wire bracketand mark the length to the bracket on thestab. Bend a 90 degree angle and cut at3/8”. Install using the nylon swing inkeeper. Attach the other three wires in thesame manner.
Set the fuselage on a level surface andblock the tail up until a level place on thetop of the stab next to the fuselage is level.
Without moving the fuselage, move thelevel out to the tip of the stab. Adjust theflying wires until the level measures levelon both the tip and the root of the stab.This will insure that you have no warp inyour stab. Repeat the process for the otherside of the stab.
Landing gear
The landing gear holes are predrilledapproximately 5-1/2” behind the front ofthe fuselage. Press down the covering tofind the holes and remove the covering witha knife.
Place the gear over the holes with the“rake” in the gear going to the rear. Insertthe 1/4-20x3/4” socket head screwsthrough the holes.
Secure the bolt on the inside of the fuse-lage with a 3/4”x1/4” washer and 1/4-20aircraft lock nut. Do not substitute blindnuts here, the large washer is importantto keep the gear from pulling out.
Install the axles in the pre-drilled holes in the landing gear using the aircraft lock-nuts. Be careful and don’t over torque thebolts or they will break easily. Install one ofthe 3/16” wheel collars on the axel approx-imately 3/16” in from the landing gear.This will space the wheel in the middle ofthe wheel pant. Adjust later if necessary.
The wheel pant has a 1/2” hole in oneside that will fit over the inside nut on thewheel pant. Slide the wheel pant and wheelon at the same time and install the outside3/16” wheel collar. You should file a flatspot on the axel where the set screw for thewheel collar fits. Screw the wheel pant tothe axel using the 3mmx20 screw into theblind nut on the inside of the wheel pant.Be sure and use thread lock compound onthe screw.
Locate the tail wheelspring and cut intotwo equal pieces.
Bend a hook on each end and attachone end to the tail wheel tiller arm andthe other to the inside hole on the rud-der control horn. Attach the 1-3/4”wheel using the 1/8” wheel collar.
Install the wing cover using two 3mm x20mm screws and flat washers. Trim theclear canopy to the scribe line and trial fit.If you are using a pilot or cockpit detail,now is the time to install it. When satisfiedwith the fit, glue in place with a bead ofZap Formula 560 canopy glue. This glue iswhite going on but will dry clear. Put abouta 1/4” wide bead around the base on theinside and hold in place with masking tapeuntil dry. Depending on heat and humidityit make a couple of days to get completelyclear, but will be dry enough to use inabout 8 hours. Any smudges can becleaned with water while the glue is stillwet.
Cowl Mounting
Draw a center line on the firewall fromtop to bottom. Draw a line across the fire-wall through the center of the hole, this isthe trust line. You can mount your enginecentered on these marks. Depending onthe engine you use, you may want to use2 degrees right thrust. This will offset theengine 3/16” to the left side of the firewall.The length of the cowl from the firewall tothe nose ring is 6-3/4”. This can beadjusted about 1/4” either way but yourengine should be spaced to fit at thislength. Our Fox 4.2 required a 1-3/8”spacer to achieve this.
Locate the two triangle shaped cowlblocks and align flush with the firewall atthe front edge. Position approximately 1” toeach side of the centerline so when astraight edge is put across the top of thefuselage the blocks are level or just about1/32” below the straight edge. Make surethey are not above the level of the straightedge. Mark the location of these andremove the covering from this area.
Epoxy the two cowl blocks in place mak-ing sure they are aligned at the same angleand the top of the fuselage.
After the epoxy has cured, round the cor-ners of the blocks so there are no sharpedges to cut the cowl.
Round corners
Measure 1-1/4” over from the centerlineand 1/4” back from the front edge of thefirewall on both sides and drill a 7/32”hole for the cowl mount bolts. Be careful toalign the drill perpendicular to the firewallso as not to run out the front or back. Drillthe hole 3/4” deep.
Locate the bottom cowl mount holesapproximately in the center of the black onthe bottom of the fuse and 1/4” back fromthe firewall. Drill a 7/32” hole 3/4” deepon both sides of the fuselage.
To locate the holes in the cowl, use astiff piece of paper and drill two holes tomatch the holes in the fuselage. Tape thepaper to the top of the fuselage with theholes aligned. Do the same for the twoholes on the side of the fuselage.
Slip the cowl in place with the paper tem-plates on the outside. Align the cowl so it isstraight from side to side and the angle onthe top matches the fuselage. You can nowtransfer the holes from the paper templatesto the cowl by marking through the holes.You may want to wait till the engine is
mounted and you have made all thecutouts for the engine. You can then alignthe cowl to perfectly match the back plateon the spinner.
Cut the four 6mm bolts to a length of1/2”. If you have a 6mm tap you can tapthe holes for the cowl mount screws, if notthey will self thread into the 7/32” holesyou drilled. Use these to secure the cowl.
Radio InstallationInstall the aileron servo in the wing using
the hardware that comes with the radio.The servo should be turned so the arm isposition toward the rear of the wing and onthe outboard side of the servo. Use the fac-tory installed nylon fishing line to pull theaileron lead to the hole in the center of thewing. You will have to use a 12” extensionto make the wire long enough.
Align the control horn with the servo armand screw in place using the #2x3/4”screws. The screws go into a plate on thetop side of the aileron. The connectionholes in the control horn for the pushrodshould be aligned over the hinge line.
Locate the 4-40 x 4-3/4” pushrods andinstall a 4-40 nut on each end. Screw a 4-40 golden clevis on each end and connectone end to aileron horn and the other tothe servo arm.
With the servo centered, adjust the link-age till the aileron is centered. Tighten the4-40 jam nuts on each end and install theclevis keeper on each clevis. Don’t forget toinstall the servo arm retaining screw. Put adrop of thread lock on both jam nuts.
Install the elevator and rudder servos inthe tail. The elevator servo goes on top withthe arm turned to the rear and down andthe rudder servo goes on the bottom withthe arm turned forward and up. You willneed a 24” extension for each servo. Installthe control horns using the #2 x3/4”screws into the plate on top for the eleva-tors. Align the holes for the pushrod overthe hinge line and mount as close to theinboard edge of the elevator as possible.The rudder is a push-pull set up so therewill be a control horn on both sides. Usethe 2x3/4” screws through the controlhorns with #2 aircraft lock nut on the otherside.
Locate the two 4-40 x 5-1/2” and the two4-40 x 6-1/2” pushrods and install a 4-40nut and 4-40 Golden clevis on each end.Install the 5-1/2” ones on each elevatorand the 6-1/2” ones on the rudder, bothsides. With the servos centered, adjust thelinkage so the elevators and rudder arecentered. Tighten the jam nuts and apply adrop of lock tite to each. Install the cleviskeeper and the servo arm screw.
Locate the throttle servos mount andglue the 3/8” square spruce block and the1/8” ply angles in place. Mount the servosto the plate using the hardware suppliedwith the radio.
The servo mount can be glued to the sideof the fuselage just in front of the F2 bulk-head (the one with the wing dowel holes).There will be room for the fuel tank belowit and the ignition system can sit on top ofthe tank. Install the E-Z connector (sup-plied) to your servo arm. Take the2-56x12” push rod and install the 2-56
jam nut and the Golden clevis.
Drill a hole in the firewall to line up withthe throttle arm on your engine. Install thepushrod with the Golden clevis on theengine and the other end in the E-Z con-nector. This set up shows a Fox 4.2, if youare using a different engine you will haveto adjust accordingly.
On our Fox 4.2 installation a hole was cutin the firewall to allow the ignition wire topass through. The module sits on top ofthe fuel tank and a switch is installed inthe fuselage in the nose section.
A hole is drilled at the top of the firewallto allow the ignition pickup wire to passthrough and the fuel line holes are drilledjust above the carb.
Assemble the fuel tank so the klunk isabout 1/4” off the bottom of the tank andfree to flop about. If you are using glowfuel you must use silicone tubing and ifyou are using gasoline you must use tygonor neoprene tubing. The tank supplied has agas stopper and neoprene tubing. If youuse glow you must replace these. Installthe tank in the nose section and drill theappropriate holes.The radio receiver and switch can be
mounted in the rear section of the com-partment under the wing (there is lots ofroom). Depending on the engine used, thebattery (or batteries if ignition is used) canbe mounted where needed for balance.With the Fox 4.2, both batteries weremounted as far to the rear as possible.
The StingerStinger has a wide CG envelope. Werecommend you start at 5” to 5-1/2”behind the leading edge. For all out aero-batics you can go back to 6-1/2” behindthe leading edge.
1. Drill and assorted bits2. Hobby Knife with #11 blade3. Masking Tape4. T-pins or straight pins5. Felt tipped pen/pencil6. Rubbing alcohol7. Paper towels8. Phillips screwdriver9. Allen wrenches10. Metric tap 6mm.11. Pliers (needle nose)12. Mixing sticks13. 36” yard stick or tape measure14. Scissors15. Moto tool with sanding drum.
Adhesives
1. Thin CA (cyanoacrylate) glue2. Medium CA. Glue3. CA remover/debonder4. 5-Minute Zap Z-Epoxy5. 30-Minute Zap Z-Epoxy6. Zap Z-42 Threadlock7. Zap Canopy glue.
Equipment Required
1. Four channel radio or better2. Servos- 70in.oz. or better 73. 1200mah battery pack or larger4. Y-connectors 25. 12” extensions (Aileron) 26. 24” extensions (Rudder) 2
(Elevators) 2If you have a programmable radio that
will allow you to mix two channels to con-trol the two elevator servos you will notneed a servo reverser. If not you will need1 servo reverser, and one more Y-Connector.
7. Heavy duty control arms to fit your servos.
8. Switch harness (your radio)9. Motor (gas or glow)
If gas , battery pack, and switchfor ignition.
10. Prop and 4” Spinner for your motor.
11. Fuel line (for gas or glow)12. Pilot figure (optional)
Throttle Hardware
1. E-Z connector 12. 12” 2-56 pushrod 13. 2-56 Golden clevis 14. 2-56 nut 15. Lite-ply servo mount 16. 3/8” sq. x 3/4” spruce blocks 2
