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It is important for you, or any rider of the bicycle, to read this manual before your first ride – even if you are an experienced cyclist.!
Welcome Thanks for buying an Avanti and welcome to a great riding experience for women.
Rather than speculate on what we ‘think’ is relevant to women riders and what you need, we decided to
go direct to the source, ask questions and listen to the answers. So we empowered a group of women who
ride different kinds of bikes to advise us on how we can create a better riding experience for women.
Through focus groups, discussion, experimentation and evaluation we’ve garnered some pretty sharp
insights into what women need to ride most efficiently and most comfortably - but with an appropriate
amount of style.
Our designers and engineers have taken the insights and designed frames with specific geometry for
women, developed graphics and colours that appeal to women and integrated components specifically
suited for women.
And the outcome is bikes that are simply superior for you to ride. Whether you ride to the shops, do
trails with your mates or race to the finish line we’ve developed a specific bike which is ergonomically and
aesthetically excellent. For you it means we’ve done all the research, thinking and development so you can
just relax and ride. Our lifetime warranty supports the confidence we have in the quality of Avanti bicyles.
In this guide you’ll find some useful information about your shiny new bike, how it works and how to look
after it. We know you’ll be keen to get riding but take some time to read the guide first - especially the
safety warnings which can help you avoid injury. Trust us, it’ll be worth it.
We recommend you keep the manual handy after the first read too, as it’s a useful reference tool.
If you need help at any time, please get in touch with your Avanti Dealer who will be happy to assist. A list
of Avanti dealers can be found on avantibikes.com.
Let’s go riding!
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Ge
ne
ral
Wa
rnin
g
Contents 3 General Warning and Safety Advice
4 The Parts of Your Bike
6 How the Parts of Your Bike Work - Your Wheels and Tyres - Your Bike Suspension - Your Brakes - Your Gears - Your Cables - Clipless Pedals
21 Fitting Your Bike
25 Staying Safe - Safety Equipment - The Sixty Second Pre Ride Safety Check - Tips for Safe Riding - Wet Weather Riding - Night Riding
29 Puncture Repairs
33 Looking After Your Bike - Break in Period - Bike Adjustment - Cleaning - Lubricants - Storage - Security
39 How to Avoid Sore Body Parts
40 What to Wear
42 Going Riding - What to Take - Riding Tips for Beginners
45 Travelling With Your Bike
46 Your Avanti Dealer
47 Warranty
50 Avanti Bike Service Plan
General Warning and Safety Advice: Cycling can sometimes be a hazardous activity even under the best of circumstances. Proper maintenance
of your bike is your responsibility as it helps reduce the risk of injury.
This manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” which highlight the importance of inspecting and
maintaining your bike that you should pay particular attention to. Even if you’ve been riding a bike all your
life, you probably need to refresh your riding knowledge. Why? Because bikes are going through some
pretty dramatic changes in technology which affect function, handling, comfort, performance and safety.
It is compulsory to wear a safety standards approved helmet while cycling.
We recommend you use only authorised components or accessories to ensure your safety.
Quick Release:
Proper operation of the quick release is essential to safe riding. Check the quick release before every ride
and make sure it is properly secured. If it is not properly secured, the front wheel may wobble or disengage
from the bike, which may result in serious injury. If you don’t fully understand the quick release operation,
see your Avanti Dealer.
Carbon Crash Replacement Policy:
Carbon has unique qualities that enable it to be light and strong in a variety of riding conditions. However,
in the case of a crash, collision or general impact where the force is absorbed by your carbon frame and/
or components we highly recommend you replace the frame or components concerned even if there is
no sign of damage. At the very least your bike should be inspected by a qualified bicycle technician at an
Avanti dealer. Avanti has a carbon crash replacement programme in place that subsidises replacement
costs in a crash or collision situation. To benefit from this programme or to learn more please contact your
Avanti dealer.
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Th
e P
art
s o
f Y
ou
r B
ike
The Parts of Your Bike
Frame
Frame
Stem Stem
Headset Headset
SeatSeat
Seat PostSeat Post
Seat Post ClampSeat Post ClampBrake Cable
Brake Cable
Rear Cluster
Rear Cluster
Rear Brake
Rear Brake
Rear DerailleurRear Derailleur
Chain
Chain
Chainring
Chainring
Front Derailleur Front
Derailleur
Valve
Valve
HubHub
Brake Lever
Brake Lever
Front Brake
Front Brake
Shifter
Shifter
Tyre Tyre
Spoke SpokeForkFork
Down Tube Down Tube
Crank Arm
Crank Arm
Pedal Pedal
Chainstay Chainstay
Head Tube
Head Tube
Handlebar
Handlebar
Rim Rim
Seat Tube
Seat Tube
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How the Parts of Your Bike WorkYour Wheels and Tyres
Wheel Inspection:The condition of the wheels and their relationship to your brakes performance are very important. The best
maintenance for a wheel is preventive maintenance. If you are aware of the things that can go wrong, you
may be able to stop trouble before it happens. Watch for these potential problems.
• Dirty or greasy rims can render your brakes ineffective. Do not clean rims with solvent. This can leave an
oily film. Wipe your rims with a clean rag or wash them with soap and water, rinse and let them air dry. Do
not ride while wet.
• When lubricating your bike, be sure not to get oil on the braking surfaces.
• Bike wheels must withstand great force and weight. Spokes need to be tightened to the correct
tension of your wheels to be both round and centred within the bike frame. Because wheel truing is a
complicated procedure, we recommend that you take your bike to your local Avanti Dealer.
Tyres:• Bike tyres are available in many designs and specifications, ranging from general purpose designs to tyres
designed to perform best under very specific weather or terrain conditions. Your bike has been equipped
with tyres which the manufacturer felt were the best balance of performance and value for the use for
which the bike was intended. Once you’ve gained experience with your new bike and feel that a
different tyre might better suit your riding needs, your Avanti Dealer can help you select the most
appropriate design.
• The size, pressure rating and, on some high performance tyres, the specific recommended use are
marked on the side wall of the tyre (see fig. 1). The part of this information which is most important to you
is tyre pressure.
Fig. 1 Tyre markings
Tyre Pressure
Direction
Size
Warning:Never inflate a tyre beyond the maximum pressure marked on the tyre’s side wall.
Exceeding this pressure can blow the tyre off the rim, causing possible damage to the
bike and injury to the rider and bystanders.
The best way to inflate a bike tyre to the correct pressure is with a bike pump.
Your Avanti Dealer can help you select an appropriate pump.
Caution:Gas station air hoses move a large volume of air very rapidly, so will raise the pressure in your tyre very
rapidly. To avoid over inflation using a gas station air hose, put air into your tyre in short, spaced bursts.
Tips on Tyre Pressure:
• Tyre pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure range. How a tyre performs under
different terrain or weather conditions depends largely on tyre pressure.
• Inflating the tyre to near its recommended maximum pressure gives the lowest rolling resistance, but also
produces the harshest ride. High pressures work best on smooth surfaces such as hardpack dirt, tarseal
and pavement.
• Low pressures, at the bottom of the recommended pressure range, give the best performance on loose
surfaces such as deep dry sand.
• Tyre pressure which is too low for your weight and the riding conditions can cause a puncture of the tube,
by allowing the tyre to deform sufficiently to pinch the inner tube between the rim and the riding surface.
• Ask your Avanti Dealer to recommend the best tyre pressure for the kind of riding you will most often
do and have them inflate your tyres to that pressure. Then, check inflation so you’ll know how correctly
inflated tyres should look and feel. Some tyres may need to be brought up to pressure every week or two.
Note:
Some special high performance tyres have unidirectional treads: their tread pattern is designed to work
better in one direction than in the other. The side wall marking of a unidirectional tyre will have an arrow
showing the correct rotation direction. If your bike has unidirectional tyres, be sure they are mounted to
rotate in the correct direction.
Psi kPa
30 207
40 267
50 345
60 414
70 483
80 551
90 620
100 689
110 758
120 827
Please note:
PSI pressure is marked
on the tyre. It can be
converted to kPa using
the following table:
Fig. 3B Quick release Cam
Fig. 4 Wheel in rear dropout
Fig. 3A
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How To Remove and Install Your Quick Release Wheels
Warning:Riding with an improperly adjusted wheel quick release can allow the wheel to wobble
or disengage from the bike, causing damage to the bike and serious injury to you.
Therefore, if you aren’t familiar with the operation of quick release wheels it is essential
that you:
1. Ask your Avanti Dealer to help you make sure you know how to install and remove your wheels safely.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your wheel in place with a quick release.
3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check that the wheel is securely clamped.
A. Removing a Quick Release front wheel:1) Open up the brake shoes
2) Rotate the wheel quick release lever from the locked or CLOSED position to the OPEN position (fig.2).
3) If your front fork does not have a secondary retention device, go to step 5.
4) If your front fork has a clip on type secondary retention device, disengage it.
5) If your front fork has an integral secondary retention device, loosen the tension adjusting nut about six
full turns.
6) Raise the front wheel a few centimetres off the ground and tap the top of the wheel with the palm of
your hand to knock the wheel out of the front fork.
B. Installing a Quick Release front wheel:
Fig. 2 Quick release Cam
Turn Tension adjusting nut to adjust
clamping force
Closed position
Open position
1) Rotate the quick release lever so that it curves away from the wheel
(fig. 3B). This is the OPEN position.
2) With steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork blades
so the axle seats firmly at the top of the slots which are at the tips of fork
blades. The quick release lever should be on the left side of the bike (fig.
2). If your bike has a clip on type secondary retention device,
engage it.
3) Holding the quick-release lever in the OPEN position with your right hand,
tighten the tension adjusting nut with your left hand until it is finger tight
against the fork dropout (fig. 3).
4) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts
and at the same time centering the wheel rim in the fork, rotate the quick
release lever upwards and push it into the CLOSED position (figs. 2 and
3A). The lever should be parallel to the fork blade and curved toward
the wheel.
Caution:If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around
the fork blade for leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the
palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever, turn the tension
adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn, and then try again.
5) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the
fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the tension
adjusting nut counterclockwise one quarter turn and try tightening the
lever again. Close the brake shoes, then spin the wheel to make sure it is
centred in the frame and clears the brake shoes.
Warning:Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for
correct quick release adjustment. Failure to properly adjust
the quick release mechanism can cause the wheel to
wobble or disengage, which could result in serious injury.
C. Removing a Quick Release rear wheel:
1) Open up the brake shoes.
2) Shift the rear derailleur to the outermost gear (the smallest, rear sprocket)
and pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
3) Rotate the quick-release lever to the OPEN position (fig. 3B)
4) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few centimetres and with the derailleur
still pulled back, push the wheel forward and down until it comes out of
the rear dropouts.
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D. Installing a Quick Release rear wheel:
1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position and pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
2) Rotate the quick release lever to the OPEN position (see fig. 3A). The levers should be on the side of the
wheel opposite the derailleur and freewheel sprockets.
3) Put the chain on top of the smallest freewheel sprocket. Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts
and pull it all the way into the dropouts (fig. 4).
4) Tighten the adjusting nut until it is finger tight against the frame dropout; then rotate the lever toward
the front of the bike until it is parallel to the frames chainstay or seatstay tube and is curved toward the
wheel (fig. 3A and 4).
Warning:
If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around the
chainstay or seatstay for leverage and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the
tension is insufficient. Open the lever, turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn and then try
again.
5) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the chainstay or seatstay tube, return
the lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise one quarter turn and
try again.
6) Push the rear derailleur back into position.
7) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure it is centred in the frame and clears the
brake shoes.
NOTE: Once the quick release is installed in the hub axle by the manufacturer or the Avanti Dealer, it never
needs to be removed unless the hub itself requires servicing. If the hub requires servicing, consult your
Avanti Dealer.
E. Tensioning Your Chain (Applies to bmx and Single speed bikes only):
The chain must be at the correct tension. If it’s too tight the chain will be difficult to pedal and if it’s too
loose it can come off the sprockets.
Adjust the tension of the chain as follows:
• Loosen the axle nuts of the rear wheel
• Loosen the clamp on the brake arm but do not remove the nut and the screw from the clamp
• Move the rear wheel forward or backwards as necessary until you can pull the chain 6mm to 12mm from
a straight-edge
• Hold the wheel in this position and tighten the axle nuts to the recommended torque
• Tighten the brake arm clamp
Your Bike Suspension / Forks
Avanti Forte models come equipped with front suspension which is designed to smooth out some of the
shocks encountered in off-road riding. If you have a Forte, ask your Avanti Dealer to provide you with the
appropriate adjustment and maintenance instructions.
Warning:Failure to check and service all suspension pivot points at regular intervals will result in
poor suspension performance and ultimately costly repairs.
Warning: Replacement forks must have the same rake and inner diameter as those originally
fitted to the bicycle.
Caution:Changing suspension adjustment can change the handling and braking characteristics of your bike.
Never change suspension adjustment unless you are thoroughly familiar with the suspension system
manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations, and always check for changes in the handling and
braking characteristics of the bike after a suspension adjustment by taking a careful test ride in a hazard
free area.
Caution:Not all bikes can be safely retrofitted with some types of suspension systems. Before retrofitting a bike with
suspension, check with the bikes manufacturer to make sure what you want to do is compatible with your
bike’s design.
WARnInG:The chain must remain on the sprockets. If
it comes off the sprockets a coaster brake
will not work. When the chain is at the
correct tightness you should have vertical
movement of 6mm to 12mm in the chain.
6mm to 12mm
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Brakes
NOTE: For most effective braking, use both brakes and apply them simultaneously.
Brakes enable you to slow or stop your bicycle which is critical to your safety. The brake system is not easy
to adjust without the correct tools and training. It is strongly recommended that you visit an Avanti dealer if
your brakes need adjusting. If in doubt speak to your dealer.
• Hub brakes: Including coaster brakes or drum
brakes where the brake mechanism is inside the
hub (Figure 8A). Hub brakes are controlled by a
hand lever or by the pedals.
Fig. 8A Hub Brakes
Fig. 8B Disc Brakes
• Disc brakes: Brake pads apply pressure to a
disc mounted to the hub of the wheel (figure
8B). The pressure is controlled with a hand lever
that is connected to the brake by a cable or a
hydraulic hose.
Fig 8B - Disc brake parts:
1. Attachment bolts
2. Fixed-pad adjuster
3. Cable-clamp bolt
1.
3.
Tips for effective braking:
• It’s important to your safety that you instinctively know which brake lever
controls which brake on your bike. The braking action of a bicycle is a function
of the friction between the brake surfaces, usually the brake shoes and the
wheel rim. To make sure you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel
rims and brake shoes clean and free of lubricants, waxes or polishes.
• Make sure your hands can reach and squeeze the brake levers comfortably. If
your hands are too small to operate the levers comfortably, consult your Avanti
Dealer before riding the bike. The lever reach may be adjustable; or you may
need a different brake lever design.
• Most brakes have some form of quick release mechanism to allow the brake
shoes to clear the tyre when a wheel is reinstalled. When the brake release is in
the open position, the brakes are inoperative. Ask your Avanti Dealer to make
sure you understand the way the brake quick release works on your bike (see
figs. 7A, 7B, 7C and 7D) and check each time to make sure both brakes work
correctly before you get on the bike.
• Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike. Maximum
braking force for each wheel occurs at the point just before the wheel “locks
up” (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tyre skids you actually lose
some of your stopping force and directional control. You need to practice
slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. To do this squeeze
the lever progressively .
• If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep
the wheel rotating just short of lockup. It’s important to develop a feel for the
amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at different speeds and
on different surfaces. To better understand this, experiment a little by walking
your bike and applying different amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until
the wheel locks.
fig. 7A
fig. 7B
fig. 7C
fig. 7D
Open
Open
Types of brakes
Different types of bicycles have different types of brakes. The brake types can be divided into three types:
• You will also need to transfer your body weight when breaking at speed or down a hill toward the rear of
the bike as under braking your body will naturally want to go forward.
• Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tyre adhesion is reduced, so the
wheels have less cornering and braking traction and can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on
the brake shoes reduces their ability to grip. The way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go
more slowly to begin with.
• The V-Brake system has a lot more stopping power than conventional braking systems. They are basically
the same set up with a similar cable and release system.
2.
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Brake Adjustment
To adjust the clearance between the brake pads and the rim:
1. Turn the barrel-adjuster.
- For most V-brake (Figure 8C) or cantilever (Figure 8D) systems the
barrel-adjuster is on the lever. For most road caliper systems (Figure 8E-1)
the barrel-adjuster is on the brake itself.
- To increase the clearance between the brake-pad and rim, turn the
barrel-adjuster clockwise. To decrease the clearance, turn the barrel-
adjuster counterclockwise.
2. If the brake-pads can’t be adjusted correctly with the barrel-adjuster
the following is required:
- Direct-pull and caliper: Decrease the tightness of the cable-clamp bolt
and attach the cable again.
- Cantilever: Re-adjust the brake-pad alignment.
If in doubt take the bike to your dealer for adjustment.
To put a direct-pull, cantilever, or road brake in the centre
1. Turn the centre-adjust screw (Figure 8C-6, Figure 8D-3, or Figure 8E-2)
in small increments.
2. If the brake has two centre-adjustment screws adjust the overall spring
tension while you put the brake in the centre.
If in doubt take the bike to your dealer for adjustment.
To adjust the alignment of the brake-pads on a rim brake
1. Decrease the tightness of the pad clamp bolt.
2. Align the brake-pads as shown in Figure 8F
Then tighten the pad-clamp bolts as follows:
- Caliper: 40-60 lb-in (4.5-6.8 Nm)
- Direct-pull or cantilever: 70-80 lb-in (7.9-9 Nm)
Inspection
Before every ride perform the brake check from the Pre-Ride Safety Check.
Monthly, examine all the brake bolts and brake-pads for worn areas. If in doubt take your bike to your
dealer for inspection:
• Rim brakes: If the grooves in the brake-pad surface are less than 2 mm deep (or 1 mm deep for
direct-pull brakes) replace the brake-pads.
• Disc brakes: Replace brake-pads that are thinner than 1.0 mm.
Fig. 8F Brake Pad alignment
• Brake Pad alignment
for Rim brakes:
1. Brake Pad in
alignment with rim
surface
2. Pad and Rim should
be parellel
3. Direction in which
the rim turns
4. 0.5-1.0mm toe-in
1.
2.
3.
4.
Warning: V Brakes are very powerful with minimal lever pull. Do not pull brakes front brakes on hard
as you may fall or go over the handle bars.
Adjusting your brakes:
If either brake lever on your bike fails the 60 Second Safety Check, you can restore brake lever travel by
turning the brake cable adjusting barrel (fig. 8E -1) counterclockwise, then lock the adjustment in by turning
the barrels lock nut clockwise as far as it will go. If the lever still fails have your Avanti Dealer check the
brakes.
Warning: Applying the front brake first can pitch the rider over the handlebars, which can cause
serious injury.
• Rim brakes: Brake pads apply pressure to the
rim. The pressure is controlled with a hand lever
that is connected to the brake by a cable. Includes
direct-pull or V-type brakes (Figure 8C) , cantilever
brakes (Figure 8D), and road or caliper brakes
(Figure 8E)
Fig 8C - V brake:
1. Cable- clamp bolt
2. No touch
3. Pipe
4. Link
5. Pad-clamp bolt
6. Center-adjust screw
7. Arm-clamp bolt
Fig 8D - Cantilever brake:
1. Linkwire
2. Arm-clamp bolt
3. Center-adjust screw
4. Pad-clamp bolt
Fig 8E - Caliper brake:
1. Barrel-adjuster
2. Center-adjust screw
3. Brake release lever
4. Pad-clamp bolt
Fig. 8C V Brakes
Fig. 8D Cantilever Brakes
Fig. 8E Caliper brakes
1.2.
3.4.
5.
6.
7.
1.
2.
4.
3.
1. 2.
3.
4.
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3. After you adjust the brakes check them by pulling the levers. Make sure the cable does not slide through
the clamp, the brake-pads engage the rim at ninety-degree angles, and the brake-pads do not touch the
tire.
If in doubt take the bike to your dealer for adjustment.
To release the brake for wheel removal
• For most road calipers, lift the brake release lever (Figure 8E-3) to the “up” position. To close, turn the
lever to the “down” position.
To close the brake do the reverse.
• For cantilever brakes, release the link-wire (Figure 8D-1). With one hand, push the brake pads fully against
the rim. With the other hand, pull the leaded end of the link-wire from the fork on the brake-arm. Release
the brake-pads.
To close the brake do the reverse.
• For direct-pull brakes, disconnect the pipe from the link (Figure 8C-3). With one hand, push the pads fully
against the rim. With the other hand, pull the pipe away from the link, and lift the pipe. Release the brake-
pads.
To close the brake do the reverse.
• For internal or drum brakes, to remove the rear wheel, first disconnect the gear and brake cables.
To disconnect the brake cable push the cable-carrier arm forward and the cable clamp bolt backwards so
the bolt aligns with the larger diameter hole in the carrier.
Pull the cable-clamp bolt out to remove it from the carrier. Slide the brake-cable stop forward to remove it
from the brake-arm. Decrease the tightness of the brake-strap bolt. To disconnect the gear cable, put the
shift lever in first gear. Pull the cable-housing out of the gear-cable housing-stop. Turn the gear cable-clamp
bolt until the washer flats align with the slit in the cog joint bracket. Remove the cable.
If in doubt take the bike to your dealer for adjustment.
To align a hydraulic disc brake
1. Undo the brake attachment bolts slightly (Figure 8B-1).
2. Fully pull the lever, and tighten the bolts to:
100-110 lb-in (11.3-12.4 Nm).
To align a cable disc brake
1. Adjust the clearance between the right brake-pad and the disc
a. Turn the fixed-pad adjuster (Figure 8B-2).
b. If you have difficulty, read the instructions “To adjust the clearance between the left brake-pad and the
disc,” and then adjust the right pad.
2. Adjust the clearance between the left brake-pad and the disc
a. Turn the cable barrel-adjuster: clockwise to increase clearance, anti-clockwise to decrease clearance.
b. If the pads can’t be adjusted correctly, reduce the tightness of the cable-clamp bolt and re-attach the
cable. Tighten the cable-clamp bolt to 50-70 lb-in (5.7-7.9 Nm).
c. After adjustment, turn the lock-nut clockwise to make sure the adjustment doesn’t change.
3. Align the brake with the disc
a. Decrease the tightness of the brake attachment bolts.
b. Slide a business card or other thin object between the right brake-pad and the disc.
c. Pull the lever fully, and tighten the bolts to 100-110 lb-in (11.3-12.4 Nm).
To remove disc brake-pads
1. Take the wheel off the bike
2. Remove split pin which runs through the body of the brake calliper and pads, then with your fingers
or pliers, hold the tang of the brake-pad and pull out the pad.
Brake Lever Adjustment
Brake levers enable you to control the brakes. Their position should enable you to control the brakes with
a minimum amount of effort or movement.
Fig. 8H Mountain Lever 1. Lever-clamp bolt 2. Reach-adjustment screw
Fig. 8I Middle bar Lever 1. Lever-clamp bolt
Fig. 8G Road Lever 1. Lever-clamp bolt
Types of levers:
Road levers for drop handlebars Figure 8G.
Mountain levers for flat handlebars Figure 8H.
Middle-bar brake levers for drop handlebars Figure
8I.
To adjust the position of a lever
1. Find the lever-clamp bolt (Figure 8G, Figure 8H,
or Figure 8I).
2. Reduce the tightness of the clamp bolt two to
three turns.
3. Move the lever to where you want it.
4. Tighten the lever-clamp bolt:
Road or mountain brake-levers: 53-69 lb-in (6.0-7.8
Nm).
Middle-bar levers 20-30 lb-in (2.3-3.3 Nm).
To adjust the reach to the brake-lever
1. Find the reach-adjustment screw (Figure 8H-2)
and turn.
To decrease the reach, turn the screw clockwise. To
increase the reach turn the
screw anti-clockwise.
2. If it’s necessary after you adjust the reach also
adjust the brake pad clearance.
1.
1.
2.
1.
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Your Gears
The gear changing mechanism on your bike consists of:
• A rear sprocket cluster called a freewheel or freewheel cassette
• A rear derailleur
• Usually a front derailleur
• One or two shifters
• One or two control cables
• One, two or three front sprockets called chainrings
• A drive chain
Why all those gears?The number of possible gear combinations (“speeds”) is the product of multiplying the number of
sprockets at the rear of the drivetrain by the number of sprockets at the front (6 x 3 = 18, 7 x 3 = 21, 9 x 3 =
27 and so on).
You will get the greatest fitness benefit, produce the greatest sustained power and have the greatest
endurance if you learn to spin the pedals at high revolutions per minute (called cadence) against low
resistance. You will get the least fitness benefit and have the least endurance by pushing hard on the
pedals against heavy resistance. The purpose of having so many gears on a bike is to let you choose the
gear which allows you to maintain your optimum cadence under the widest range of riding conditions.
Depending on your fitness level and experience (the more fit, the higher the cadence), optimum cadence is
between 60 and 90 pedal revolutions per minute.
Shifting Gears:There are many different types of shifter mechanisms, each preferred for specific types of application
because of its ergonomic, performance and price characteristics. The designers of your bike have selected
the shifter design which they believe will give the best results on your bike. The different types of shifters
and their operation are illustrated in Figures 7A, 7B & 7C .
Caution:
Never move the shifter while pedalling backward, nor pedal backwards after having moved the shifter.
This could jam the chain and cause serious damage to the bike.
Warning:
Never shift a misadjusted derailleur onto the largest or the smallest sprocket. The chain
could jam, causing you to lose control and fall.
Shifting the Rear Derailleur:The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter. The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive
chain from one gear to another on the rear gear cluster, thereby changing gear drive ratios. The small
sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher gear ratios. Pedalling in the higher gears requires greater
pedalling effort, but takes you a greater distance with each revolution of the pedal cranks. The larger
sprockets produce lower gear ratios. Using them requires less pedalling effort, but takes you a shorter
distance with each pedal crank revolution.
Moving the chain from a smaller sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger sprocket results in a down shift.
Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprocket results in an up shift.
In order for the derailleur to disengage the chain from one sprocket and move it onto another, the chain
must be moving forward (ie. the rider must be pedalling forward).
Shifting the Front Derailleur:The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts the chain between the larger and smaller
chainrings. Shifting the chain onto a smaller chainring makes pedalling easier (a down-shift). Shifting to a
larger chainring makes pedalling harder (an up-shift).
Which gear should I be in?The combination of largest rear, smallest front gears (fig. 8) is for the steepest hills. The smallest rear, largest
front combination (fig. 8) is for the greatest speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence.
Instead, find the “starting gear” which is right for your level of ability, a gear which is hard enough for quick
acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling and experiment with up shifting
and down shifting to get a feel for the different gear combinations. At first, practice shifting where there
are not obstacles, hazards or other traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence. Once you’ve learned the
basics, experience will teach you which gear is appropriate for which condition and practice will help you shift
smoothly, and at the right time.
Your Cables
If you experience bad shifting or stiff brakes the problem could be as simple as dirt, rust or kinked cables.
To clean and lube the cables, select the smallest chainring on the front and the smallest cog on the rear,
release cable anchor bolts on front and rear derailleurs. The cable goes slack allowing you to remove
outercable from cable stops. Clean inner cable with rag then cover with a coating of grease. Oil the inside of
outer casing. Refit inner cable into outer casing before fitting outer casing back into the correct position in
cable stops. Tighten inner cables onto anchor bolts of both front and rear derailleurs. This will solve problems
in most cases, if not you may need new cables, your Avanti Dealer will be able to help.
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Fitting Your BikeTo get the most out of your riding and to be as comfortable as possible your bike should be properly
sized and fitted. Here’s a quick guide to setting yourself up on the on your bike. For a complete set up
see your Avanti dealer.
Frame size:
Your Avanti Dealer will have recommended the best frame size for you, based on the information provided.
If someone else selected the bike for you, as a gift, for example, it’s important for you to make sure that it
fits before you ride it.
The first check for correct size is stand over height. Stand over height is the basic element of bike fit.
• It is the distance from the ground to the top of the top tube at the point where your crotch would be if
you were straddling the bike by standing half way between the saddle and the handlebar stem.
• If you can’t straddle the bike while wearing the kind of shoes in which you’ll be riding, and bounce
vigorously on your heels without having the bike touch your crotch, don’t even ride the bike around the
block. The bike is too big for you to ride safely.
• A bike which you ride only on paved surfaces and never take off-road should give you a minimum
stand over height clearance of 25-50mm. A bike that you’ll ride on unpaved surfaces should give you a
minimum of 50mm of stand over height clearance.
fig. 9 Stand Over Height
Warning:
Once cables are fitted onto anchor bolts of front and rear derailleur fine tuning of cable tension will
be needed to ensure correct index shifting. Because cable tension adjustment is a delicate procedure,
to ensure correct index shifting, we recommend that you take your bike to your local Avanti Dealer or
Service Centre.
Clipless (“Step -In ”) Pedals
Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) ensure maximum pedalling efficiency. They work like
ski bindings.... a plate on the sole of the shoe clicks into a spring loaded fixture on the pedal. Clipless
pedals require shoes and cleats specifically designed for the make and model of pedal being used.
Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to adjust the amount of force needed to engage or
disengage the foot. Your Avanti Dealer can show you how to make this adjustment.
Warning:
Clipless pedals are intended for use with shoes specifically made to fit them and are designed to firmly
keep the foot engaged with the pedal. Practice is required to learn to engage and disengage the
foot safely. Until engaging and disengaging the foot becomes a reflex action, the technique requires
concentration which can distract the rider’s attention, causing the rider to lose control and fall. Practice
engaging and disengaging clipless pedals in a place where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic.
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fig. 10C
fig. 10B
fig. 10A
fig. 12fig. 11A fig. 11B
Standard binder
QR binder
Min insert mark
Saddle PositionCorrect saddle adjustment is an important factor in getting the most performance and comfort from your
bike. Your Avanti Dealer will have positioned the saddle where experience tells them most people find it
comfortable. If you find the saddle position is uncomfortable, there are adjustments you can make.
Look at Figures 10A, 10B and 10C, and determine which one illustrates the type of saddle attachment on
your bike.
A saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
1. Up and down adjustment:
Your leg length determines the correct saddle height. This height can be found using this simple
procedure.
• Sit on the saddle;
• Place both heels on the pedals;
• Rotate the crank backwards until a pedal with your heel on it is in the down position and the crank arm is
parallel to the seat tube.
• If your leg is not completely straight with your heel still on the pedal your saddle height needs to
be adjusted.
To adjust the saddle height, loosen the seat binder bolt (see fig. 11A & 11B) and move the seat post up or
down as required. Then, make sure the saddle is parallel to the top tube of the bike, and tighten the seat
binder bolt tight enough so that you cannot twist the saddle out of alignment. Check the adjustment as
described above.
Under no circumstances should the seat post project from the frame beyond its
“Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark (see fig. 12)
Warning:If your seat post projects from the frame beyond the Minimum Insertion or
Maximum Extension mark (see fig.12), the seat post may break, which could cause you
to lose control and fall.
2. Front and back adjustment:
Loosen the saddle clamping mechanism (see fig. 10A, 10B or 10C) and slide the saddle back or forward on
its rails. Start with the saddle clamped in about the middle, then adjust forward or back until you find the
position which is most comfortable for you. Then, tighten the saddle clamping mechanism.
3. Saddle tilt adjustment:
Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some riders prefer to have the saddle nose tilted up just a little,
and others prefer it to be tilted down just a little.
• Saddles with saddle brackets (fig. 10A) can have their tilt adjusted by loosening the saddle bracket nuts,
tilting the saddle to the desired position, and tighten the saddle bracket nuts.
• Saddles with two bolt microadjustable seat posts (fig. 10B) are adjusted by changing the relative position
of the two bolts which hold the saddle to the seat post and then tighten both bolts. Saddles with single
bolt or two bolt toothed rocker tilt mechanism seat posts (fig. 10C) are adjusted by loosening the clamp
bolt(s) with an Allen Key, tilting the saddle, and then tightening the clamp bolt(s).
Very small changes in saddle position can have substantial effect on performance and comfort.
Consequently, whenever you make a change to your saddle position, make only one directional change at
a time, and make the changes in small increments until you have found the position at which you are most
comfortable.
Handlebar height and angle:
If your bike is equipped with a stem which clamps directly on to the outside of the steering tube, your
Avanti Dealer may be able to change bar height by moving height adjustment spacers from below the
stem to above the stem, or visa versa. Otherwise, you’ll have to get a different stem. Consult your Avanti
Dealer. However, on most bikes, you can raise or lower your handlebars a bit by adjusting stem height.
Loosen the stem binder bolt by turning it counter-clockwise three or four full turns. If the bolt rises, but the
stem doesn’t, use a piece of wood or a soft mallet to give the bolt a tap to release the wedge. Adjust the
stem position as desired, and tighten the binder bolt tight enough so that you cannot twist the stem and
handlebars out of alignment. (See Fig. 13)
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Caution:On some bikes, changing stem height can affect the tension of the front brake cable, locking the front
brake or creating sufficient cable slack to make the front brake inoperable. If the front brake shoes move
in towards the wheel rim or out away from the wheel rim when you change stem height, take your bike to
your Avanti Dealer for correct brake adjustment before riding it.
Warning:
The stems Minimum Insertion mark must not be visible above the top of the headset
(see fig.13). If the stem is extended beyond the Minimum Insertion mark, the stem may
damage the forks steerer tube or break, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
You can change the angle of the handlebar or bar end extensions by loosening their binder bolt, twisting
the bar or extension to the desired angle, centering it, and tighten the binder bolt tight enough so that
the bar or extensions can’t twist in relation to each other and the stem.
Warning:
Failure to properly tighten the stem binder bolt, the handlebar binder bolt or the bar
end extension clamping bolts may compromise steering action, which could cause
you to lose control and fall. If you can twist the stem in relation to the front wheel, turn
the handlebars in relation to the stem, or turn the bar end extensions in relation to the
handlebar, tighten the bolts.
Brake and Shifter Angle:
The brakes and shifters can be adjusted to suit any particular person. The ultimate position varies from
rider to rider but a rule of thumb is about 45 degrees in line with your arms while seated normally on
the bike.
fig. 13
Handlebar Binder
Min Insert mark
Stem binder
Correct Incorrect
Staying Safe
Safety Equipment
Helmet:Always wear a New Zealand or Australian Standards approved helmet while riding. Wear one which fits
comfortably and securely, and does not in anyway interfere with your vision or hearing. We recommend
Standards Approved AVANTI and SPECIALIZED helmets.
Gloves:Gloves save the skin on your palms. When you fall off your bike you instinctively put your hands down
to save yourself. A quality leather or synthetic glove will help prevent the loss of skin. We recommend
Specialized and Zero gloves.
Clothing:Bright and reflective clothing is particularly important at night when visibility is generally reduced.
For comfort it is suggested lightweight and multi-layer clothing is worn, with particular attention made
to protect hands, feet and head especially against the cold. See the later section on What to Wear for
more info.
Eye Protection:Any kind of riding, particularly off-road riding, involves airborne dirt, dust and bugs, so it’s a good idea to
always ride with protective eye wear, tinted when the sun is bright, clear when it’s not. Avanti dealers carry
protective fashion eye wear, some with interchangeable lens systems.
The 6O Second Pre Ride Safety Check
Here is a simple, 60 second mechanical safety check which you should get in the habit of making every
time you’re about to get on your bike.
nuts, Bolts & Straps:Lift the front wheel off the ground by about 10cm, then let it bounce on the ground. Does anything sound,
feel or look loose? Do a quick visual and tactile inspection of the whole bike. Are there any loose parts or
accessories? If so, secure them. If you’re not sure, ask someone with experience to check.
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Tyres & Wheels:Are your tyres correctly inflated? Check by putting one hand on the saddle, one on the intersection of the
handlebars and stem, then bouncing your weight on the bike while looking at tyre deflection. Compare
what you see with how it looks when you know the tyres are correctly inflated, and adjust if necessary.
Are your tyres in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look for cuts in the tread and side wall. Replace
damaged tyres before riding the bike.
Are your wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake clearance and side-to-side wobble. If a wheel
wobbles side-to-side or hits the brake pads, take the bike to an Avanti dealer to have the wheel trued.
Caution:Wheels must be true for the brakes to work effectively. Wheel truing is a skill which requires special tools
and experience. Do not attempt to true a wheel unless you have the knowledge and tools needed to do
the job correctly.
Brakes:Squeeze the brake levers. Are the brake quick releases closed? Is the straddle cable securely engaged?
Are the brake shoes contacting the wheel rim within 25mm of brake lever movement? Can you apply full
braking force at the levers without having them touch the handlebar? If not, your brakes need adjustment.
Warning:Riding with improperly adjusted brakes or worn brake shoes is dangerous and can result
in serious injury.
Quick Releases:Are the front wheel, rear wheel and seat post quick releases properly adjusted and in the locked position?
Warning:Riding with an improperly adjusted wheel quick release can cause the wheel to wobble
or disengage from the bike, which can cause damage to the bike and serious injury.
Handlebar and saddle alignment:Are the saddle and handlebar stem correctly installed, parallel to the bikes top tube and tight enough so
you can’t twist them out of alignment?
Handlebar ends:• Are the handlebar grips secure and in good condition? If not, replace them.
• Are the handlebar ends and extensions (if you have them) plugged and tightened? If not, plug and
tighten them before you ride.
Warning:Loose or damaged handlebar grips or extensions can cause you to lose control and fall.
Unplugged handlebars or extensions can act like a cookie cutter on your body, and can
cause serious injury in an otherwise minor accident.
Time to go riding - safely
Now buckle on your helmet and enjoy your ride. Like any sport, cycling involves risk of injury and damage.
We have made our bikes as safe as we possibly can to provide maximum enjoyment and safety for you.
However you need to remember that you take ultimate responsibility for your safety in the way you look
after your bike and the way you ride.
Tips for Safe Riding
1. Always wear a New Zealand or Australian Standards Approved helmet while riding.
2. Familiarise yourself with your bike and its controls before riding.
3. Be sure your bike is in proper operating condition. In particular, check brakes, derailleurs, tyres and
wheels, saddle and seat post, handlebar and stem and all quick release levers.
4. Know and obey all traffic laws. A copy of the road code is available from your local Police station or
book shop.
5. Ride with traffic. Never ride against traffic.
6. Ride in single file.
7. Maintain a steady course. Avoid sudden swerving.
8. Use proper hand signals to alert motorists, pedestrians, and other cyclists of your intention to stop
or turn.
9. Beware of cars entering traffic. Motorists entering traffic often do not see cyclists. Keep a watchful eye
on side streets.
10. Beware of road hazards. The most common road hazards include sand, broken glass, storm drains, pot
holes, pedestrians, parked car doors opening, dogs and railroad crossings.
11. Never ride double or carry packages which obstruct your view or inhibit your control of the bike.
12. Always keep at least one hand in control of the handlebars.
13. Never stunt ride or ride while holding onto another vehicle.
14. Do not ride with loose clothing or bare feet. Use leg clips or bands to keep trousers from tangling in
the chain.
15. Never ride at night without proper lighting.
16. Be aware that wet weather riding causes longer braking distances, and a greater possibility of skidding.
17. Be cautious and careful. Never assume that a driver will stop at an intersection. Try to make eye contact
with all drivers and even then, never assume that the driver sees you or will stop in time to avoid
hitting you.
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Wet Weather Riding
Warning:Wet weather impairs traction, braking and visibility, both for the rider and for other
vehicles sharing the road. The risk of accident is dramatically increased in wet conditions.
Ride slower and apply brakes gradually in wet weather.
night Riding
Riding a bike at night is many times more dangerous than riding during the day.
Therefore, children should never ride at dusk or at night. Adults should not ride at dusk or at night unless
using lights and reflectors.
Warning:Riding at dusk, after dark or at times of poor visibility without a bike lighting system and
without reflectors is dangerous and can result in serious injury or death.
Before riding at dusk or night, take the following steps to make yourself visible:
• Make sure your bike is equipped with correctly positioned and securely mounted reflectors.
• Purchase and install an adequate battery or generator powered head and tail light.
• Wear light coloured, reflective clothing and accessories, such as a reflective vest, reflective arm and leg
bands, reflective stripes on your helmet, flashing lights ...any reflective device or light source that moves
will help you get the attention of approaching motorists, pedestrians and other traffic.
It’s important to your performance, enjoyment and safety to understand how things work on your bike.
Even if you’re an experienced cyclist, don’t assume the way things work on your new bike is the same
as how they work on older bikes. If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether you understand
something, talk to your Avanti Dealer.
Puncture Repairs
Valves
(From Left to Right) The Presta Valve…
and the Car (or American) Valve
What you need:1. Spare tube
2. 2 or 3 tyre levers
3. Pump
4. Positive attitude
Brake Type 1. The CalliperHandy Tip: Simply flick the small ‘quick
release’ lever up so that the wheel can drop
out without getting caught up in the brake
pads. Once repair is done, just flip down
the lever again.
Brake type 2. V-brakeSqueeze the brake arms together and pull
the cable out of the latch.
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Step One
• Undo the plastic valve cap and un-screw the valve and press in if you use presta, or press in the internal
valve if you have a Car valve and release any air that may be still in the tyre. If you have a presta valve you
may have to un-screw a small silver lock nut from the valve stem also
• Quickly inspect the surface of the tyre and try to see if there is any obvious reason for the puncture, this
could speed up the repair if you know where the problem started from. You may see large cuts or thorns,
glass etc…still in the tyre.
Step Two
• Use your tyre levers and hook the first one under the bead of the tyre. Some levers have small hooks on
the opposite end and once you have got under the first bead you can bend the lever downwards and
latch them around the spokes below and they should hold securely.
• Repeat this across the tyre until about one quarter of the tyre is off the rim. Depending on the condition
of the tyre, it may be easy to take the tyre from this point. If not…remove the middle lever and try and
prise open another section until you feel the tyre release from the rim.
Step Three
• Take one side of the tyre off the rim and leave the other side still embedded on the rim.
• Reach in and remove the tube, but leave the valve inserted into the rim hole. Get your pump and pump
some air into the tube and listen for any leaks. This will point you directly to the cause of the problem.
If it’s leaking from a small hole in the tube…track back to the corresponding area on the tyre where the
tube once lived and look for glass, thorns and cuts in the tyre. You may have to feel for it, but be careful
not to cut you fingers!
• Once you have found the cause, remove the cause of the puncture from the tyre. This is very important.
• Pump a few strokes of air in the tube, just to give it shape. Don’t let the tube twist. Insert the new tube,
valve first into the valve hole in the rim. Then tuck the tube into the tyre all the way around the tyre. So all
you should see now is the bead of the tyre over hang one side of the wheel…the tube should be so well
tucked into the tyre, it’s almost hidden.
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• Then starting from the top of the wheel by the valve, use both hands and start to remount the tyre by
pushing the edge of the tyre towards the centre of the rim.
• With half of the tyre mounted, press the valve up into the tyre. You should feel it adjust and the tyre seat
into the rim. Not doing this could cause the tyre to bulge once fully inflated.
• Fit the rest of the tyre, rolling the last part on with your thumbs. Try not to use the tyre levers to clip over
the last piece; this will cause the tube to pinch. Inspect that the tube is not caught between the tyre bead
and the rim at any point.
• Start pumping up the tyre until you think you are about half pressure. Stop and assess the tyre,
making sure it looks seated and there are no wobbles. Spin the wheel slowly. Once satisfied, pump
to normal inflation.
Other handy stuff to know
• You can’t change your tyre diameter, but you can consider a change in width. A wider tyre can give a
more comfortable ride and better traction. A narrower tyre offers easier pedalling and better speed.
• Always keep a spare set of inner tubes on hand. They are fairly cheap, and punctures are common.
Looking After Your BikeService and Maintenance
How much of your bike’s service and maintenance you can do yourself depends on your level of skill and
experience, and on whether you have the special tools required. In most cases it is best to get your Avanti
Dealer to service your bike.
Warning:Many bike service and repair tasks require special knowledge and tools. Do not begin
any adjustments or service on your bike if you have the slightest doubt about your ability
to properly complete them. Improper adjustment or service may result in damage to the
bike or cause an accident which can result in serious injury.
Break in PeriodYour bike will last longer and work better if you break it in before riding it hard. Control cables and wheel
spokes may stretch or “seat” when a new bike is first used and may require readjustment by your Avanti
Dealer. Avanti Dealer’s typically suggest you bring the bike in for a 30 day checkup. Another way to judge
when it’s time for the first checkup is to bring the bike in after three to five hours of hard off-road use, or 10
to 15 hours of on-road or more casual off-road use. But if you think something is wrong with the bike, take it
to your Avanti Dealer before riding it again.
General MaintenanceIf you want to do your own maintenance here are the things you should look out for:
1. Before every ride: Perform a 60 second safety check (page 21).
2. After every long or hard ride; if the bike has been exposed to water or grit; or at least every 160 km:
Clean the bike and lightly oil the chain, freewheel cogs and rear derailleur pulley bushings. Wipe off
excess oil.
3. After every long or hard ride or after 10 to 20 hours of riding: Squeeze the front brake and rock the
bike forward and back. Does everything feel solid? If you feel a clunk with each forward or backward
movement of the bike, you probably have a loose headset.
4. Lift the front wheel off the ground and swing it from side to side. Does it feel smooth? If you feel any
binding or roughness in the steering, you may have a tight headset.
5. Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away from the centre line of the bike; then do the same with the
other pedal. Does anything feel loose?
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6 . Take a look at the brake shoes. Are they starting to look worn or not hitting the wheel rim squarely? It’s
time to adjust or replace them.
7. Check the control cables and cable housings. Is there any rust? Kinks? Fraying? If so, replace them.
8. Squeeze each adjoining pair of spokes on either side of each wheel between your thumb and index
finger. Do they all feel about the same? If any feel loose, check the wheel for tension and trueness.
9. Check the frame, particularly in the area around all tube joints, the handlebars, the stem and the seat
post for any deep scratches cracks or discolouration. These are signs of stress caused fatigue and
indicate that a part is at the end of its useful life and needs to be replaced.
10. Check to make sure that all parts and accessories are secure and tighten any which are not.
Warning:Like any mechanical device, a bike and its components are subject to wear and stress.
Different materials and mechanisms wear or fatigue from stress at different rates and
have different life cycles. If a component’s life cycle is exceeded, the component can
suddenly fail, causing serious injury to the rider. Scratches, cracks and discolouration are
signs of stress caused fatigue and indicate that a part is at the end of its useful life and
needs to be replaced.
11. As required: if either brake lever fails the 60 Second Safety Check restore brake lever travel by turning
the brake cable adjusting barrel counterclockwise, then lock the adjustment in by turning the barrels
lock nut clockwise as far as it will go. If the lever still fails the 60 Second Safety Check have your Avanti
Dealer check the brakes.
12. If the chain won’t shift smoothly and quietly from gear to gear: the derailleur is out of adjustment. The
cause may be as simple as cable stretch, in which case you can compensate by turning the shifter or
derailleur cable adjusting barrel counterclockwise 1/2 turn. Try shifting again. If 1/2 turn to a full turn of
the cable adjusting barrel does not cure the problem, see your Avanti Dealer.
13. Every 25 (hard off-road) to 50 (on-road) hours of riding: take your bike to your Avanti Dealer for
a checkup.
List of ToolsThe list of tools below are the basics you need to adjust your bike. Keep them handy!
•Torque Wrench (for assembly and adjustment)
• Allen Key set or multi tool (for sizing adjustments)
• Phillips head screwdriver
• Flat blade screwdriver
•150mm adjustable spanner
• Pump for bike
• Floor pump with gauge
• Chain oil (to keep the bike running smoothly)
• Chain cleaner (to get rid of road grime)
Bike AdjustmentAdjustments may require special tools and technical expertise. You should make these adjustments only if
you possess the technical expertise to do them properly. If in doubt ask your Avanti Dealer.
We recommend that you use a torque wrench to carry out assembly and adjustments of your bike.
Your Avanti Dealer should have all the nuts, bolts and screws correctly tightened for you when you take
delivery of the bike. If you make any adjustments to your bike, you should be sure to tighten the nuts, bolts
or screws to their correct tightness as indicated by the torque values listed below:
Handle binder bolt 150 to 180 in.lbs or 170 to 200 cm.kgf 16.9-20.3 Nm
Stem binder bolt 175 to 260 in.lbs or 200 to 300 cm.kgf 19.8-29.4 Nm
Stem to steerer binder 100 to 120 in.lbs or 115 to 140 cm.kgf 11.3-13.6 Nm
Seat binder bolt 150 to 180 in.lbs or 170 to 200 cm.kgf 16.9-20.3 Nm
Saddle clamp bolts 175 to 350 in.lbs or 200 to 400 cm.kgf 19.8-39.5 Nm
Wheel axle nut 130 to 210 in.lbs or 150 to 250 cm.kgf 14.7-23.7 Nm
Brake Cable Anchor Bolt 50 in.lbs 5.6 Nm
Brake Centre Bolt 70 in.lbs 7.9 Nm
Torque force specifications
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How To Keep Your Bike Clean
Bike washing dislodges abrasive residue that can be pulled through a bike drive train and into cables.
This residue is what causes the parts to wear quickly. Basically, you wash a bike like you wash a car. Modern
bikes have sealed or semi-sealed bearing surfaces that can resist some water intrusion. They are not
waterproof. Do not use power washers or direct a high pressure stream of water into any bearing surface
such as hubs, bottom bracket, headset, or cassette.
To wash a bike you need the following equipment:
• Bucket
• Sponge
• Towel(s)
• Stiff bristle brush
• Hose
• Chain lube
• Water soluble biodegradable degreaser
• Start by rinsing the bike off with a garden hose. This will dislodge the loose foreign matter attached to
the bike.
• Once the rinse is complete apply a biodegradable degreaser to the drivetrain. Be sure you get the back
of the chainrings and the cogs as well as the chain.
• After you apply the degreaser it is a good idea to let it soak for a few minutes to dissolve lubricant
residue.
• Following the degreaser, use a stiff bristle brush to scrub the chainrings and cogs. Scrub both sides of
the chain as it passes over the chainring while back-pedalling. Scrub the drivetrain thoroughly and pay
attention to the back of the chainrings. If you have used wax based lubricants you may have a difficult
time getting the entire residue off.
• After scrubbing the degreaser off the drivetrain, soap the entire bike with a big sponge and a lot of warm
suds. Wash the handlebar and stem area, getting behind the brake levers and under the stem. Wash
under the saddle and wash both rims and tires. Soap the drivetrain to wash off the degreaser residue.
• Following the wash, rinse the bike completely. Quickly towel the bike and take it for a ride for about 5
minutes to blow the water off. After your short ride towel it off thoroughly.
• About every 3-4 washes you should mark your saddle height on the seat post, remove your seatpost and
dry the inside of the seat tube and the outside of the seatpost.
• Following the complete drying, relube your chain from the bottom, on the inside of the chain’s rotation so
centrifugal force drives the lube into the chin links, not off onto your bike. Wipe all the excess lube off the
chain by back-pedalling the drivetrain through a rag several times.
Triathlon Use:
Ensure bike is cleaned after use as salt from swimming and sweat can cause corrosion. To protect your
paint work use a high quality auto polish. Pay particular attention to areas around cable guides.
Lubrication
After cleaning and before storage it is important that you lubricate your bike.
To keep your bike in top running order it is important to lubricate it when new and at regular intervals,
especially after riding in rain or bad weather. We recommend Pedros grease and Pedros bike chain lube, or
ask your Avanti Dealer.
You should pay particular attention to the following parts:
Chain:Rotate the chain and lightly oil along its complete length. Wipe off surplus oil with a cloth.
Brake calipers:Lightly oil the brake calliper pivot points
Lubrication Chart
PART LUBRICANT INTERvAL
Hubs Grease 6-12 months
Bottom Bracket Grease 6-12 months (off-road riding: 3 months)
Pedals Grease 6-12 months
Headset Grease 6-12 months
Chain Oil Monthly (off-road riding: after each ride)
Derailleurs Oil Monthly
Derailleur Jockey Wheels Oil Monthly
Brake Cables Oil 3 months
Brake Levers Oil 3 months
Brake Cables Oil 3 months
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Do not allow oil to come into contact with tyres. Keep oil away from wheel rims and brake blocks.
Avoid over-lubrication, as this will attract dirt.
StorageIf your bike is not in regular use or is not going to be used during the winter a few simple tips will ensure it
remains in good condition.
• First make sure it is clean and lubricated.
• Always store it in a dry shed or garage.
• Do not store in direct sunlight, as the ultra-violet rays will fade paint and perish tyres.
• To protect the tyres, we suggest you store your bike with the tyres off the ground.
• Make sure the tyres are always kept slightly inflated.
• Do not store near electric motors because ozone which is a by-product of the motors can destroy rubber
and paint.
• Do not cover with plastic, as this ‘sweats’ and will cause rusting.
• If the bike is not likely to be used for some time (eg over winter), it is suggested that metal parts should
be smeared lightly with grease to help prevent rusting.
DO NOT GREASE WHEEL RIMS.
Remember
• Do a 60 second safety check before returning it to use (see page 21).
• Clean off any protective grease with an oil based solvent. Don’t use thinners or similar products.
• If you need any further guidance contact your local Avanti Dealer
SecurityAs you read this a bike is being stolen, and most are never returned to their rightful owner. To help you
prevent you becoming one of these unfortunate cyclist, there are a few simple precautions.
• Record your frame number at the back of this book.
• If you have to leave your bike unattended ensure that you lock it to a secure object. A full range of locks
are available from your local Avanti Dealer.
• As a precaution it is advised that when you leave your bike you remove any accessories eg. pumps and
removable lights, and that you secure any quick release items such as seats and front wheels, by locking
them to the bike or taking them with you.
How To Avoid Sore Body PartsHere are some tips to avoid sore bits while you’re riding and keeping yourself comfortable on and off
your bike.
Aching musclesEven if you only have a limited amount of time, warming up and warming down before and after your ride
can do wonders for your muscle soreness. Warming down is always important: if you cruise for an easy 10-
15 minutes after your ride, you can decrease the soreness of your muscles for the following days. It’s also a
good idea to avoid hills during the last part of your ride.
Sore kneesIf your shoes/cleats (if you’re using clipless pedals) are incorrectly set up, it can lead to pain in your knees. If
you’re getting sore knees, have your Avanti dealer check your cleat alignment.
Your seat height is another adjustment that can cause knee irritation, so check your seat height is in the
correct position.
neck/back stiffnessObviously the position that you cycle in isn’t a natural position so it’s normal to get discomfort in your neck
and lower back because of this.
• While you’re riding, try and consciously stretch both your neck (by moving your head from side to side/up
and down), and also your back. If you can do this as often as you remember it can minimise the chances
of stiffening up.
• Also, without getting too in-depth, weak lower abdominal muscles can cause you to make your back work
more than it should have to. So getting some advice from health professionals in this area could be a
good idea if the problem persists.
• Your bike set-up can also be causing you to get sore in these areas, so if it’s a continuing problem, pop in
to your local Avanti dealer and have them check you out.
Hands going numb?• To keep your hands from going numb gloves are a good idea during a ride. You can also try a thicker
handlebar tape.
• While you’re riding, try to change your grip on the handle bars frequently to different positions on the
bars. This can help your blood flow.
...Or your feet?• Check your shoes aren’t too small for you, or that your shoes aren’t done up too tight.
• You can also try and increase the circulation to your feet by moving your toes around in your shoes,
and also try pulling UP on your pedals for a few strokes (instead of naturally pushing down). Doing this
on and off during your ride can help keep the circulation going all the way to your feet, and decrease
the numbness.
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What To WearYou’ll be a lot more comfortable on your bike in cycling-specific clothing. You don’t need to have the latest
kit, but here are some tips to make the ride a bit comfier, and possibly a bit faster!
Tops
Cycling topsWhy use a cycling top?
Comfort - usually made of specific fabric designed to remove the sweat away from your body, so are often
a lot more comfortable. (Plain cotton t-shirts tend to soak up the sweat, leaving you wet)
Design - designed with longer backs to allow for your position on the bike – preventing gaps on your lower
back and resulting sunburn etc....
Pockets - pretty essential food transporters! You can also store wallets/jackets/mobile phones.
Tighter fitting - more aerodynamic, absorb and evaporate sweat more quickly and are generally more
comfortable.
Long front zip - more ventilation in really hot conditions (and you can fit your shirt on over your head, even
with your helmet on!)
T-shirts/Sports topsIf the fabric is appropriate, breathable and moisture wicking, then sports tops can be quite effective. But
they usually don’t have the benefits of zips and pockets.
GlovesGloves can be a good idea for a few reasons:
Hygiene – your handlebar tape can get pretty grimey if you’re not a big bike washer. Gloves can be thrown
in the wash so provide a clean barrier between your hands, and your handlebars.
Grip – they can also help to grip the handlebars, especially in hot weather when your hands may sweat
more.
Safety – in any event of an accident, gloves can help protect your hands from minor damage.
Padding - Some new gloves have special padding in them that helps absorb the vibration of your
handlebars from the road (which can cause numbness or pins and needles in the fingers/hands)
Hanky purposes – They’re also really handy for wiping your nose on.
Shorts
Once you ride in a pair of padded cycling specific shorts, you’ll never ride without them again!
Padding - These have a built-in padding (called a chamois – pronounced “shammy”), which makes sitting
on the bike seat a lot more comfortable and absorbs and evaporates sweat.
Tight fitting – this stops fabric getting caught in the saddle (therefore safer), and also eliminates friction
and chafing (comfort) and they’re aerodynamically far more efficient!
Women’s specific shortsThere are a lot of Women’s specific cycling shorts available now. Things to look for are:
• Women’s specific chamois (no seams in inappropriate places, and specifically designed for a woman’s
shape).
• A comfy leg-gripper: there’s nothing worse than a leg gripper that digs into your leg, so a good short will
have a firm, but not tight leg gripper. Leg grippers prevent the shorts from riding up your legs.
• Shorter leg length (usually women have shorter legs anyway, but it’s also a fashion thing)
Arm/Leg warmersArm and leg warmers are “extensions” to your top or shorts that you can add/remove from your arms/legs
in cooler weather.
Easy to use – the extensions are easily taken on and off, so you can remove/add them during a ride
depending on the weather.
Tight fitting – designed to fit under your jersey/shorts. The snug fit reduces friction between the fabric and
your skin, and won’t get caught in any part of your bike or surrounding objects!
Footwear
Cycling shoesThese are a good idea as you get more advanced in road or mountain biking, but certainly not essential –
especially for beginners. But for those wanting to get a bit more serious, they can be the best investment
you’ve ever made to improve your cycling!
Cleat system – cycling shoes have a “cleat” on the bottom of them, which hooks into a pedal. Your foot is
“clamped” to your shoe, so you have better control, and can pedal more efficiently by pulling up, as well
as pushing down, on your pedal.
Stiff sole – cycling shoes have a very stiff sole that can minimise possible foot discomfort. The stiffness also
increases the power that you can transfer from your leg to your bike (energy is lost in a bendy sole)
SocksHigh tech fabric – moisture-reducing fabric can make cycling socks a better option than cotton socks –
especially in warm weather.
Higher ankle band – this can keep the ankles warm in winter (if worn under leg warmers)
Tight fitting – the ankle band hugs your ankle, so no chances of getting caught in the chain!
HelmetThere are plenty of choices in various price ranges with shapes, sizes and colours designed for women.
So if you’re looking for an upgrade, pop into your local Avanti Dealer and look at what’s available. We
recommend Specialized and Avanti helmets.
SunglassesAgain, certainly not essential, but a good thing to invest in. Not only do they protect your eyes from the
sun, but also from any foreign flying objects that can hit your eyes (insects, debris from the road etc.)
Cycling specific glasses are designed for maximum visibility and have more coverage so are definitely
better than your average fashion specs.
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Going RidingWhat To Take
Unless you’re going for a short ride in the neighbourhood, or one where you can walk home or call
someone to pick you up if something breaks, we recommend taking the following:
• 4mm, 5mm and 6mm Allen keys, used to tighten any clamping bolts which may loosen
• Patch kit and a spare inner tube
• Tyre levers
• Tyre pump
• Some kind of identification (so people know who you are in case of accident)
• A couple of dollars in cash (for food or drink)
• Nutrition including a water bottle and food
• Mobile phone.
This can all be easily carried in a small saddle bag under your seat
Riding Tips for Beginners
Starting out training
If you haven’t done much riding – or any riding – like anything, start slowly to begin with, and then gradually
work your way up to longer times on the bike. A little bit, often, is always a good way to start.
Planning your rides• Where you ride obviously depends on where you live, but cycling is a lot more fun on quieter back roads
with less traffic or off-road tracks. Heading out of a major city in rush hour on main roads is not what most
people call fun! Map out your riding or training route first. And remember that distances that might not
seem very far in a car, could be a marathon on your bike. If you can, try and map out your ride so that
you finish the ride with a tail-wind – or a downhill, it’s always way more fun ending your ride with some
assistance from the wind behind you.
• Have a “set” route and time yourself occasionally. This is a good way to measure your progress.
Riding Buddies• Riding with other people can be a great motivating factor. It’s good to mix it up a bit if you can– a few
rides on your own, a few with other people.
• It’s also good to ride with other people to practice riding in groups and controlling your bike with other
cyclists really close - especially if you ride on the road.
Riding in groups• As you gain more experience, try to keep at least a bike length between you and the rider in front of you.
This gives you an “out” if something happens to them.
• Sometimes it pays to stay either side of the rear wheel of the rider in front of you too – just an extra bit of
room for you to move if they make some sudden moves.
• Don’t be afraid to signal or tell someone if you want to move left or right, or to pass someone.
• If you pass an obstacle on the road (like a big pot-hole, or debris), try and warn the riders behind you by
pointing to it. But importantly stay in control of your bike.
• Try and keep as consistent pace as possible – rather than surging or suddenly accelerating/decelerating,
it’s far safer to keep your pace as smooth as you can. One person slamming on the brakes in a bunch can
lead to all sorts of trouble behind them.
Smooth Riding• Whether you ride on the road or the trail, you want to keep your upper body motionless and relaxed.
• Unless you’re standing on the pedals to climb a hill, the movement in your legs should be invisible from
the waist up.
• You need to pedal smoothly. This means a pedalling speed (‘cadence’) of around 60 to 90 revolutions
per minute. Too slow a cadence and you have to push hard on a high gear; too fast a cadence and you
bounce on your saddle.
• On loose terrain turns, lean the bike and take your inside foot out of (off) the pedal if needed.
• The steeper the descent, the further back you should place your weight on the bike.
Avoiding Punctures• Try to avoid riding through obvious hazards – like glass!
• Roadside gutters often have heaps of debris and can increase the chance of you puncturing, so it pays to
keep away from the rubble!
• Rain can cause debris to float to the top of the road, instead of sinking in between the cracks, so you may
puncture more in wet conditions.
• Rain can also cause debris to stick to your tyre, so if you ride over a heap of glass, it’s a good idea to stop,
and wipe your tyre (another handy use for gloves!).
• If you’re having a rotten run with punctures, which can happen in winter pop into your local Avanti
store and ask them for a slightly heavier, puncture resistant tyre that can give you more protection. We
recommend Specialized and Kenda Tyres
• After each ride, check your tyres for any debris and clean it off.
• But you can’t avoid them ALL the time...so....
For details on how to repair your tyre if it does go flat refer to page 25.
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Travelling with Your BikeBy carThere are a few options for transporting your bike with your vehicle. The decision on what rack or carrying
device to buy or use is dependent on a few things also. They include:
1. How often do you transport the bike? If you only need temporary or occasional transport, maybe an
affordable or basic system is adequate. If you need something on a daily or weekly basis, you might want
to invest in some thing that will withstand the workload over a longer time period.
2. Is there more than one bike? With the extra load applied to a rack, invest in a good system. Some are
better designs than others, take your time and tell your dealer your needs. Just watch your packing skills
if loading more than one bike at a time. Take care not to scratch paint or have bikes rubbing together,
especially tyre sidewalls!
3. How big is your vehicle? If you have a large vehicle, you may be able to get away with simply laying
the bike in the rear of a station wagon or in the rear of a van. Or if you have boot or trunk, it may just
take some time in removing the wheels, wrapping the bike in a blanket and lying wheels on top of the
blanket. Watch that the rear derailleur doesn’t knock on anything and displace your gears.
4. Shape of vehicle. Your vehicle or your lifestyle will have an impact on your rack system also. If you have
a wagon or SUV that the rear door needs to open regularly, maybe a tow bar rack is not the answer. You
may need to look at a roof rack system.
5. Ease of mounting the bike on the vehicle. This should also be considered when purchasing a rack. If
you have a high roofed vehicle, you have to consider the disadvantages of a roof rack. E.g. Extra fuel
consumption, loading of bikes, bikes staying clean and overhead clearances. If your bike is tow bar
mounted, be careful not to place wheels or tyres directly next to the exhaust pipe, this can quickly cause
tyre damage and in some cases the inner tube to explode.
6. How does the bike attach to the rack? The tow bar mounted rack is simple and can have several
versions. They can come with lock down clamps, hooks or bars that you need to tie down with bungy
cords. Roof racks come mainly in two forms. A fork mounted system where the front wheel is removed
and the fork is quick release mounted. Or the entire bike is clamped by an arm that clamps to the down
tube or seat tube and both wheels are clamped.
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Avanti Express WarrantyThe express warranties covering Avanti Bicycles are governed by the laws of the state and/or country where
the Avanti Bicycle was purchased, and apply only to the Original Owner of the Avanti Bicycle from the date
of original retail purchase from an Authorised Avanti Dealer.
Lifetime Warranty on Avanti Frame and Rigid Fork
1. AVANTI warrants its Frames and rigid forks (excluding paint, decals and finish) will be free from material
defects in materials and workmanship for the Lifetime of the Original Owner.
One (1) Year Warranty on Components and Accessories
2. AVANTI warrants that all standard components and accessories forming part of the Avanti Bicycle, as
described in AVANTI’s standard specification, (including suspension forks, rear shock absorbers, wheels,
drive train, brakes, seat post, handlebar and stem, paint, decals and finish) will be free from material
defects in materials and workmanship for a period of 12 months from the date of original retail purchase
of the Avanti Bicycle from an Authorised Avanti Dealer. Third party components and accessories forming
part of the Avanti Bicycle may also be covered by a separate manufacturer’s warranty.
3. The warranty in clause 2 excludes consumable items such as tires and inner tubes.
Limitations on Avanti Express Warranties
4. The warranties in clauses 1 and 2 of this Warranty are given to the Original Owner only. They may not be
assigned or transferred to any other person.
5. No warranties are given under clauses 1 or 2 of this Warranty where any defect, damage, malfunction or
failure is caused or contributed to by any of the following things:
(a) trick riding, ramp riding, downhill racing, jumping, aggressive riding, riding on severe terrain, riding in
severe climates, riding with heavy loads, commercial activities, or any similar activities;
(b) any neglect, abuse, misuse, lack of rider skill, improper operation, improper assembly, improper or lack
of repair, improper or lack of maintenance, alteration, modification, or an accident;
(c) any other abnormal, excessive, or improper use;
(d) the installation or use of any components or accessories not originally intended for or compatible with
the Avanti Bicycle as originally sold;
(e) any assembly or maintenance of the Avanti Bicycle by anyone other than an Authorised Avanti Dealer;
(f) any failure to follow the Avanti Bicycle’s owner’s manual; or
(g) normal wear and tear, including the results of fatigue. Fatigue damage is a symptom of the Frame or
Frameset being worn out through normal use, and is considered normal wear and tear. The Original
Owner should regularly inspect the Frame or Frameset, and ensure that the Frame or Frameset is
periodically checked by an Authorised Avanti Dealer for indicators of fatigue, stress or any other
potential failure.
Your Avanti DealerYour Avanti Dealer is there to help you get the bike and accessories which are most appropriate for
the kind of riding that you plan to do and to help you maintain your bike so you can get the maximum
enjoyment from it. They have the knowledge, tools and experience to give you reliable advice and
servicing. Your Avanti Dealer carries a variety of products so that you can have the choice as to which best
meets your needs and your budget.
To find your nearest Avanti Dealer or to learn more about Avanti bikes go to www.avantibikes.com
or www.avantiplus.com.
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6. Any attempt by any person to repair any defect, damage, malfunction or failure, other than an
Authorised Avanti Dealer, will invalidate all warranties under clauses 1 and 2 in relation to the
Avanti Bicycle.
Avanti Express Warranties in Addition to Consumer Protection Laws7. Despite anything else in this Warranty or any owner’s manual, nothing in this Warranty or owner’s manual
will exclude, limit or modify any warranty or liability of AVANTI implied or imposed by applicable law, if
to do so would be unlawful or make any part of this Warranty void or voidable.
8. The express warranties in this Warranty are in addition to any warranty that may apply under the
Consumer Guarantees Act 1993 (NZ) or the Trade Practices Act 1974 (Cth) (Australia).
9. Subject to clauses 7 and 8, and to the extent permitted by applicable law, AVANTI’s sole liability for
breaching any of the warranties in clauses 1 and 2 of this Warranty is limited, at AVANTI’s sole election,
to AVANTI:
(a) repairing or replacing the defective item;
(b) supplying the equivalent of the defective item; or
(c) reimbursing the cost of any of the above.
Making a Warranty Claim10. To make a warranty claim, the Original Owner must present the complete bicycle incorporating the
Avanti Bicycle to an Authorised Avanti Dealer immediately after the suspected fault or defect becomes
apparent. The complete bicycle must be in assembled condition and accompanied by:
(a) original proof of purchase, which identifies the Avanti Bicycle by serial number; and
(b) evidence that regular servicing and maintenance has been undertaken on the complete bicycle by an
Authorised Avanti Dealer, to show that the Avanti Bicycle has been correctly maintained.
11. AVANTI or its representative will assess the warranty claim and if accepted, will deal with the claim as
set out in clause 9 of this Warranty.
12. All warranty claims must be made within the relevant warranty period referred to in clauses 1 or 2 of this
Warranty.
13. The Original Owner will be responsible for all labour and freight charges incurred by AVANTI
associated with a warranty claim.
Exclusions 14. In no event will AVANTI be liable (whether in contract, tort, negligence or in any other way) for any loss,
damage, cost or expense of any kind whatsoever, that is indirect, consequential, or of a special nature,
arising directly or indirectly from the Avanti Bicycle. AVANTI’s total liability in relation to the Avanti
Bicycle shall be no greater than the amount of the original purchase price paid by the Original Owner
for the Avanti Bicycle.
15. Subject to clauses 7 and 8 of this Warranty, and except as expressly provided in clauses 1 and 2 of
this Warranty, AVANTI gives no warranties in relation to the Avanti Bicycle, either express or implied,
including but not limited to any implied warranties relating to quality, fitness for any particular purpose
or ability to achieve a particular result.
16. This Warranty embodies the entire obligation of AVANTI in relation to the Avanti Bicycle accompanying
this owner’s manual. AVANTI does not authorise or allow anyone, including Authorised Avanti Dealers,
to extend or vary any warranties given by AVANTI.
17. If any provision of this Warranty is held invalid, unenforceable or illegal for any reason, the rest of this
Warranty will remain in full force apart from such provision, which will be deemed deleted.
Definitions 18. In this Warranty:
“AVANTI” means:
(a) Avanti Bicycle Company Limited, for an Avanti Bicycle purchased in Australia; or
(b) Sheppard Industries Limited, for an Avanti Bicycle purchased in New Zealand;
“Avanti Bicycle” means a:
(a) complete Avanti bicycle (including any component or accessory forming part of the bicycle);
(b) Frameset; or
(c) Frame,
purchased from an Authorised Avanti Dealer;
“Authorised Avanti Dealer” means a:
(a) Avantiplus dealer authorised by AVANTI; or
(b) any other Avanti dealer authorised by AVANTI;
“Frame” means a bicycle frame;
“Frameset” means a Frame and fork, whether the fork is a suspension fork or rigid fork;
“Lifetime” means either:
(a) the lifetime of Original Owner, where the Original Owner is a natural person; or
(b) 80 years from the date of the original retail purchase of the Avanti Bicycle from an Authorised Avanti
Dealer, where the Original Owner is not a natural person; and
“Original Owner” means the first person to purchase the Avanti Bicycle at retail from an Authorised
Avanti Dealer.
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Avanti Bike Service Plan We recommend your Avanti bicycle gets serviced regularly by an Avanti Dealer.
Within 6 weeks of purchasing your bike - Bring your bike in for a FREE service check. The Avanti dealer
will adjust your bike’s gears, brakes and ensure components are running smoothly (does not include
replacement parts that may be required).
At 6 months we recommend a full service. Your Avanti dealer at this point can evaluate the wear of your
bike and will conduct a routine safety check.
At 12 months and every 6 months thereafter your bike should periodically be serviced.
This timeframe will depend on the frequency of your riding and the conditions you ride in and we
recommend you discuss this timing with your Avanti dealer but six months is a good rule of thumb.
These are important safety checks and very important to help prevent cycling accidents and ensure the life
cycle of your Avanti bicycle is maximised.
To receive maximum benefit and enjoyment out of your bicycle we recommend you follow our Avanti Bike
Service Plan over the page. Servicing a bike on a regular basis not only provides you an ongoing safety
check, but enhances the life of the bike as well.
Complete this section and bring this book in each time you get your bike serviced.
Owners Name:
Address:
Telephone:
Avanti Dealer Store:
Sales Person’s Name:
Colour:
Serial No:
Size:
Date of Purchase:
Please ensure your Avanti Bicycle Technician completes these sections every service.
Dealer: Date: Job No:
Work Done:
Recommendations:
Service Technician:
Dealer: Date: Job No:
Work Done:
Recommendations:
Service Technician:
Dealer: Date: Job No:
Work Done:
Recommendations:
Service Technician:
6 Month Bike Service Check
First 6 Week Bike Service Check (Free)
12 Month Bike Service Check
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Dealer: Date: Job No:
Work Done:
Recommendations:
Service Technician:
Dealer: Date: Job No:
Work Done:
Recommendations:
Service Technician:
Dealer: Date: Job No:
Work Done:
Recommendations:
Service Technician:
18 Month Bike Service Check
2 Year Bike Service Check
2 Years and 6 Months Bike Service Check