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www.andrewharriswoodwork.com Page 1 of 16 Bathroom Vanity
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Introduction
This plan makes a bathroom vanity 37 inches wide, 22 inches deep and 29.75 inches high to be fitted
with a Vessel Style sink and faucet.
All my builds are made with pocket hole joinery. You will need a pocket hole jig tool such as a Kreg
Pocket Hole Jig in order to build them.
I have tried to ensure all steps are covered in these plans but if you find any errors in the plans or have a
question then please email me at [email protected] to let me know.
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Shopping List
I used pine. Where it says “select” these are the “Select Pine” boards you can get in Home Depot or
Lowes.
Size Length Quantity Board Number
1 by 2 8 feet 2 1 and 2
1 by 3 8 feet 3 3, 4 and 5
1 by 4 8 feet 2 6 and 7
1 by 4 select 6 feet 1 8
1 by 6 6 feet 1 9
1 by 6 select 8 feet 4 10,11,12 and 13
¾ inch plywood 4 feet by 2 feet 1
¼ inch plywood See build notes as will depend on method of drawer construction
Legs I used these ones http://www.osbornewood.com/1183.aspx
You will also need:
Pocket Hole Tool such as a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
1.25 inch pocket screws
1.25 inch wood screws
2 inch wood screws
¾ inch finishing nails
Wood glue
Drawer and Door pulls (the cost includes the ones I used which came to around $20)
Hinges (the cost includes the ones I used which came to around $20)
Hole Saw to drill hole for faucet pipe
Estimated Material Cost: $420
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Cut list
Please read all instructions before cutting wood as shown below. I suggest some pieces are cut as you
go to ensure a tight fit.
To minimize the number of boards to use plan your cuts I have given details of which board you should
cut the piece from. If you find a more economical solution then please let me know.
Size Length (inches) Quantity Used For Board Number
1 by 2 14.5 2 Drawer rails 1
1 by 2 17.5 2 Drawer rails 1
1 by 2 30 1 Front Top Rail 1
1 by 2 7.25 2 Door Inserts 2
1 by 2 7.25 2 Drawer Rail back supports 2
1 by 2 7.25 2 Drawer Rail front Supports 2
1 by 2 6.5 1 Fake Drawer Cross Support 2
1 by 3 30 1 Front bottom rail 3
1 by 3 14.5 2 Front side top rail 3
1 by 3 14.5 2 Front side bottom rail 3
1 by 3 30 1 Front middle rail 4
1 by 3 12 4 Door Panel Vertical 4
1 by 3 12.25 1 Front Vertical Support 4
1 by 3 8.25 4 Door Panel Horizontal 5
1 by 4 18 4 Drawer Side 6
1 by 4 7.75 2 Drawer Front 6
1 by 4 7.75 2 Drawer Back 7
1 by 4 30 1 Back Support 7
1 by 4 Select 17.75 2 Side Panel 8
1 by 4 Select 7 2 Door Panel Vertical 8
1 by 6 30 1 Back rail 9
1 by 6 Select 17.75 4 Side Panel 10
1 by 6 Select 37 2 Top 11
1 by 6 Select 26 2 Top 12
1 by 6 Select 22 2 Top 13
1 by 6 Select 9.75 3 Drawer Front 12
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Size Length (inches) Quantity Used For Board Number
¼ inch ply See plans for drawer bottoms
¾ inch ply Base
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Step 1 – Make the two Side panel inserts
Use the two pieces of 1 by 3 measuring 14.5 inches in length, the two pieces of 1 by 6 measuring 17 ¾
inches in length and one of the 1 by 4 pieces measuring 17 ¾ inches in length to make each side panel.
Before joining the pieces together I sanded all edges of each piece slightly rounded so that once joined
you could see the join to give a paneled look.
Put the pocket holes on the side that will be used as the inside and also put pocket holes in the top and
bottom of each piece to fix to the top and bottom rails. I put two pocket holes on the ends of the 1 by
6s and one on the ends of the 1 by 4. Also put pocket holes on the outside edges so that the panel can
be fitted to the legs.
If you prefer you can use a piece of plywood for a solid panel look instead.
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Step 2– Make the two Side frames
Make the side frame by attaching the two 29.5 inch legs and the side panels together. Make sure the
outside face of the panel is flush with what will be the outside of the legs.
On the inside of each panel I put pocket holes on the top edge facing upwards to use to fix the top on
with.
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Step 3 – Add the Front rails
Add the 1 by 2 piece measuring 30 inch in length as the top front rail and the two 1 by 3 pieces
measuring 30 inches in length as the middle and bottom rails. Add the 12 ¼ inch piece of 1 by 3 as the
vertical support.
Make sure the pocket holes are on the inside. The pocket holes should be drilled on the narrow part of
each piece.
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Step 4 – Add the back rails
Drill pocket holes on te narrow end of each piece to attach them to the legs. I also put pocket holes on
the inside of the 1 by 6 piece on the top edge facing upwards to use to fix the top.
Note depending on where your pipe work comes out the wall you may need to adjust the width of
pieces you use for the back rails.
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Step 5 – Make the Top Drawers
Drill pocket holes in the both ends of the 7 ¾ inch length drawer pieces. Note my drawer slides required
a gap of ½ inch either side of the drawer to fit the slide. Hence the 7 ¾ inch length pieces here. If your
drawer slides need a different gap then you will need to adjust accordingly.
Join the 18 inch pieces to the 7 ¾ inch lengths to form the drawers.
You can either route the sides to fit ¼ inch plywood base inside or fix the base to the bottom.
Fit the drawer slides to the drawers as well following the instructions for the ones you have purchased. I
used 18 inch soft close drawer slides. They needed a gap of half an inch either side. Therefore the total
width of the drawer had to be 9 1/4 inches (1 inch narrower than the 10 ¼ inch opening)
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Step 6 – Drawer slide rail vertical supports
Add the 7 ¼ inch long and 7 ½ pieces of 1 by 2 as shown below.
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Step 7 – Fit the drawer slide rails as shown
Fit the two 14 ½ and two 17 ½ long pieces of 1 by 2 as the drawer slide rails as shown.
Step 8 – Fit the drawer slides
Follow the instructions of your slides to fit them to the sides of the cabinet. Usually there should end up
being half an inch gap between the bottom of the drawers and top of the rail underneath it but follow
the instructions that come with your drawer slides.
Step 9– Fit the drawer fronts
Fit the drawer fronts ensuring equal gap at top and outer edge for both.
Drill two holes through the inner drawer front and then fix the outer drawer front by screwing through
the inner drawer front into the outer drawer front using 1 ¼ inch screws.
Tip - clamp the drawer front in position when happy with the spacing and then screw it in place.
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Step 10 - Fit the fake middle drawer fronts
Add the cross support to screw the fake drawer front to as shown.
Fit the drawer fronts ensuring equal gap at top and outer edge for both.
Drill two holes through the inner drawer front and then fix the outer drawer front by screwing through
the support into the drawer front using 1 ¼ inch screws.
Tip - clamp the drawer front in position when happy with the spacing and then screw it in place.
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Step 11– Make the Doors
Make each doors using the following pieces for each one:
Two pieces of 1 by 3 measuring 12inches long
Two pieces or 1 by 3 measuring 8 ½ inches long
Two pieces of 1 by 4 measuring 7 inches long
One piece of 1 by 2 measuring 7 inches long
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Step 12 - Make the top
Make the top from the 1 by 6 pieces as shown below.
Tip : if doing mitered corners then don’t cut the boards to length first. Cut one of the miters on the
piece then measure the piece from the corner of the miter and cut the miter at the other end of the
piece.
Step 13 – Fit the top
Drill through the top of the front 2 by 4 rail so the top can be screwed on from underneath.
Place the top with the good side down and then place the upturned cabinet on top. Make sure you have
equal gap all around and then fix the sides and back with 1 ¼ inch pocket hole screws and the front edge
with 2 inch wood screws through the front rail.
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Step 14 - Fit the cabinet bottom
Add the cabinet base using the ¾ inch thick piece of plywood measuring 34 by 19 inches.
You will need to cut out a 2 ¼ inch square notch in each corner as shown below.
Drill pocket holes around all the edges and fit with the pocket holes on the underside.
Step 15 – Finish
Sand well to smooth our joints and remove any wood glue residue.
Apply Pre stain and your choice of color or paint as desired.
Step 16 – Fit the doors and add hardware
Once finished fit the doors in place with hardware of your choice. For the drawers you will need to
temporarily remove the front drawer parts.
Step 17 - Drill Holes for Vessel Sink
Depending on the sink and faucet being used – drill a hole for the drain pipe and faucet as required
using a hole saw.
