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Beach & Barrier Systems
Photo by W. W. Little
Simplified Models
Beaches are typically separated into shore-parallel environments based on water depth and relationship wave processes.
Reineck & Singh, 1980
Common Shoreline Facies
Prograding shorelines are typified by a coarsening-upward succession of deeper water to shallower water to above water facies all dominated by sand. Facies are distinguished primarily by grain size and sedimentary structures.
Photo by W. W. Little
Laminated Mud
Laminated mud forms offshore below storm wave-base just beyond the beach system and in back-barrier lagoons through suspension-settling of clay and silt.
Hummocky Cross-bedded Sand
Hummocky cross-bedded sand is produced mostly during storms by a combination of current and oscillatory flow and is found primarily on the lower shoreface and in the transition zone.
Photo by W. W. Little
Photo by W. W. Little
Photo by W. W. Little
Trough Cross-bedded Sand
Small-scale trough cross-stratified sand is common in the surf zone of the upper shoreface.
Photo by W. W. Little
Horizontally-stratified Sand
Deposition in the swash zone produces relatively continuous laminae of sand that dip slightly basinward. Small cavities formed from trapped air and water escape structures are common.
Photo by W. W. Little
Photo by W. W. Little
Shell Beds
Mollusc shells commonly accumulate during storm events, as the shells are piled upon one another and finer sediment is winnowed away.
Photo by W. W. Little
Edgewise Conglomerate
Edgewise conglomerate is an intraclastic conglomerate produced during storm events as partially lithified sediment is “ripped up” and redeposited.
Photo by W. W. Little
Thrombolites
Thrombolites are biological structures similar to stromatolites but without internal structure.
Photo by W. W. Little
Photo by W. W. Little
Ripple Bedding
Ripple bedding commonly forms as part of the backwash; however, because of the higher-energy swash part of the couplet, they have a low preservation potential.
Photo by W. W. Little
A: End of swash B: Beginning of backwash
C: End of backwash D: Rhomboidal ripples Photos by W. W. Little
Rhomboidal Ripples
Current Ripples
Photo by W. W. Little
Photo by W. W. Little
Coal
Coal forms through the accumulation of peat in back beach and back barrier regions.
Coastal Depositional Systems
A variety of depositional systems are found along a shoreline. Their distribution, geometry, and extent are determined by proximity to a sediment source, sediment abundance, energy conditions, and fluctuations in base-level.
This lecture focuses on the beach and barrier island systems.
Progradational Beach Associations
Beaches are typically separated into shore-parallel environments based on water depth and relationship to wave processes.
Beaches are typically separated into shore-parallel environments based on water depth and relationship wave processes.
Retrogradational Beach Associations
Idealized Vertical Profiles
Vertical profiles for shoreline successions vary depending, in part, on whether they are produced under transgressive or regressive conditions. Progradational successions are more common, but transgressive successions tend to be more complex.
BeachBeach Barrier IslandBarrier Island Tidal inletTidal inlet
Progradational ProfileProgradational Profile Retrogradational ProfilesRetrogradational Profiles
Barrier Islands & Lagoons
Barrier islands form mostly during transgressive conditions and are, in essence, beaches that are separated from the mainland by a lagoon. Modern barriers are commonly associated with estuaries.
Tidal Inlets
Tidal inlets are breaches in a barrier island that allow sea water to move into and out of a lagoon. As the inlet migrates in the direction of long-shore transport, a typical vertical profile would consist of fining-upward channel deposits overlain by spit sediments.
Washover Fans
Storm surges will often erode sand from the basinward side of a bar and redeposit it on the lagoonal side, producing a washover fan.
Tidal Deltas
Barrier islands often become breached by large storms. Tidal currents then flow through the opening producing small “deltas.” Ebb deltas are much more common than flow deltas because of the shallower basin in the ebb side of the bar.
Back-barrier (bay mouth) Tidal Flat
Bay mouths behind barrier bars can become filled with fine-grained sediment deposited by estuarine fluvial systems, producing tidal flats.
Photo by W. W. Little
Large-scale Architecture(progradational beach)
Progradational beach successions tend to be cyclical, in which each cycle, as well as the entire succession coarsen upward. Each small-scale cycle is referred to as a parasequence. Boundaries between parasequences are flooding surfaces and represent relatively abrupt rises in base-level.
Photo by W. W. Little
Photo by W. W. Little
Flooding surface/parasequence boundary
Photo by W. W. Little
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Flooding surfaces
Photo by W. W. Little
Offshore Deposits
Above the flooding surface are deeper-water shelf mudstones and poorly-developed limestones, both representing deposition below storm wave base.
Photo by W. W. Little
Photo by W. W. Little
Transition Zone
Transition zone deposits are composed of interbedded offshore mudstone and hummocky cross-bedded sand deposited during storms. This zone represents sedimentation below normal and above storm wave-base. Relative abundance and thickness of hummocky beds increases upward.
Photo by W. W. Little
Photo by W. W. Little
Photo by W. W. Little
Lower Shoreface
Shoreface deposits consist primarily of stacked hummocky cross-stratified sand beds deposited between normal wave base and the surf zone.
Photo by W. W. Little
Photo by W. W. Little
Photo by W. W. Little
Upper Shoreface
Trough and low-angle trough cross-bedded sand transported by surf comprises the upper shoreface.
Photo by W. W. Little
Foreshore
Swash deposition in the foreshore zone produces horizontally-laminated sand.
Photo by W. W. Little
Photo by W. W. Little
Photo by W. W. Little
Backshore Deposits
Backshore deposits can take a variety of forms, including eolian dunes, lagoonal mud, tidal sand or mud, and peat swamps.
Photo by W. W. Little
Photo by W. W. Little
Photo by W. W. Little