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Beginner-Double Sided

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    You can make it with

    Double-Sided Easel BlackboardDesigned and constructed by Dick HoldenThis double-sided blackboard is sturdy enough to provide manyyears of enjoyment for children. The double sided design enablesone side to be used as a blackboard and the other as a drawingeasel, and it's hinged so it can be folded up for storage.As a woodwork project, it offers a variety of interesting operationson your Triton workcentre - including trenching with your powersaw and mitre cutting.

    ABcDEFGH

    Side framesTop framesBottom framesChalk traysTray lipsGussetsBoardsSpread cord

    2702128802 5901

    x 1100x 660

    x 570600

    422

    424242

    XXXXXXX

    1919191912

    3.23.2

    x 576x 660x 620x80All dimensions are in mm

    Tool Requirements1. ESSENTIAL Triton workcentre and your power saw. Drill (preferably power) with 4mm bit, measuring tape, square,hammer, screwdriver, nail punch, medium and fine sandpaper, paint brush.2. USEFUL Mitre square, Triton extension table, mitre corner clamp.

    ComponentPg( ,lo Description Ouantity Widt@Lerg _

    o Copyright Triton Manufacturing and Design Co. Pty Ltd. lssue No 1, September 1987

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    Construction Details

    I The first step is to cut the 3mm slots for theI masonite boards. This is done with yourr saw in the table saw mode. Set your sawblade height to 9mm, and set your rip fence at8mm.

    Material S List1. WOOD Any light and strong wood will do, as longas it is reasonably straight grained and free of defects.Select radiata pine is a good choice, being botheconomical and easy to work.Shop for 42 x 19mm - 4 @ t.2m, and 2 @ 1.5m (for theframes), 70 x 19mm - 1 @ t.5m (for the chalk trays).12mm quad molding, or similar - 1 @ 1.5m (for thechalk tray lip), 3.2mm Masonite - 1 @ 600 x 700mm, '1@ 600 x 600mm (for the board and gussets).(Note: Masonite is normally sold in large sheet sizes,beginning at 1830 x 1200mm. lf you don't own a Tritonextension table, you may prefer to find a timbermerchant willing to sell offcuts or cut to size. Makesure your masonite is cut square).2. FASTENING- PVA or equivalent wood glue- Self tapping screws - 2 @ 8G x11/2" 4 @ 8G x 1%"- Nails - 8 @ 75mm x 3.75mm (3") bullet head, 40@ 20mm panel pins.3. OTHER One pair of 50mm butt hinges with screws(6G x s/a"). Approx. 600mm of strong cord for the"soread cord".4. PAINTING AND FINISHING Blackboard (orchalkboard) paint High gloss polyurethane or similar,wood putty.

    1. Remember that you are cutting materialfor two separate sides which aresubsequently hinged together as a double-sided board.2. Do not cut the masonite to final size untilthe frames have been cut ready for themasonite boards to be fitted.3. lf you plan to lacquer or paint the framesof your finished board, it is advisable to dothis along the inside (slotted) edges of theframes before assembling, rather than riskfouling the actual board areas with yourbrush.

    The cutting procedure that follows preventsuse of your safety guard.Keep your hands well clear of the saw blade.Don't trail your fingers behind yourworkpiece.Use a push stick when completang the cut.

    Take a short piece of 19mm scrap and cut a testslot. Turn the material over onto its oppositeedge (other face against the fence) and make asecond cut. lf necessary, adjust the fence settingso that the two cuts coincide.

    Take the two 1.5m lengths of the 42 x19mm material and cut a slot down thecentre for the full length of one 19mm sideof each. A good quality tungsten-tipped sawblade usually has a 3mm wide kerf, whichprovides the required width with one cut. lf yourblade cuts less than 3mm, you will need to resetyour fence slightly outwards and make two cutsfrom opposite faces of your workpiece. (Checkfirst on an off-cut).

    The side frames (A) are cut from the four1 .2m (42 x 19mm) lengths, and require asimilar trenching cut.

    It is easiest to make a full length cut in these sideframes, but it is more visually pleasing to stop thecut at 680mm from the top (That is, don't cut anunnecessary trench in the leg sections of theblackboard).This can be done in two ways. Firstly, you canadd a long extension to the rip fence, and fix astop block to stop your cut at the 680mm point,or you can make appropriate reference marks onyour table top and your workpiece. Whateverprocedure you follow, don't lift your workpieceoff a still-spinning blade. Stop your saw, wait tillthe blade coasts to a halt, and then remove yourworkpiece.

    Remove the rip fence and fit yourprotractor, set at 45 degrees. Replace yourriving knife and guard. You can check tosee if your protractor is set correctly by making atest cut on scrap, placing the offcut against themain piece and seeing if they form a perfect rightangle. Adjust if necessary. Mitre cut the very topends of your side frames (A).

    From one of the two 1.5m slotted lengths,cut the two top frames (B). The insidemeasurement of each is 576mm (slottededge). Mitres are required on both ends, so cutone mitre, measure carefully and then cut theother.

    General Points

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    Construction DetailsPaint both boards with blackboard (orchalkboard) paint as per the instructions on thecan and set aside to dry

    f tl To assemble each side of the board, takeI z it??3i,li,"s?filt:t l;5 fiftl" (')surfaces and secure in position with a masonitegusset (F), using glue and small nails (20mm).Check that the corner is square.Fit the board (G), face down, into theslots of the top frame (B) and the firstside frame (A), add the second side

    frame (A) and second gusset (F) as above.

    both top frame (B) and bottom frame (C) on bothsides. Be careful to avoid drilling into thenails which hold the gussets in place. Figure 3.

    f ^e A 75 x 3.75mm bullet head nail should| (, ffi[J fiJSiYJ[ffi?:l ?'J[:',ii# "'ocarefully drive home each nail and punch theheads to just below the surface. Fill the nail holeswith wood putty and sand smooth. The nails nowserve the purpose of steel dowels, making yourboard quite rigid.f rl Repeat operations 12-16 for the secondI f side of the board.f a Cut the chalk trays (D) to size and cut offtC' lH [",:*1ffi':.?il: ?r"l ::u3ffiilB'tray. lf your quad molding is hardwood, you willneed to take care not to split the quad whennailing. Pre-drilling is necessary. (A nail with thehead nipped off can serve as a drill bit for this).

    I tl Position and glue the bottom frame (C),IIa making sure that the board (G) is- r properly in the slot. Assemble the twobottom gussets (F), using glue and small nails asaoove.

    t5 With your power drill and 4mm bit set todrill a depth of approx. 70mm (no more),drill through the side frames (A) into f tl Drill through the lower centre of eachI Y 3ilfrfrJitil: [3] f"ff fs i l:: l?",.T,n;,,x 8G self-tapping screws, and also through bothside frames (A) from behind, using in this case1% x 8G self-tapping screws. Take care not tosplit the chalk trays, particularly near the ends.Atl Drill through each bottom frame (C) near4V I ffi :;,"JI".'&5 lii H3'iT :I:ifI15mm apart allow the cord to be taken backthrough the cross f rame and knotted on the rearof each side.2l :sHJ'::ie necessarv' racquer or paintAtl Add hinges at top and attach the spreadI I ff t,3:5i,"#rlcrack board is com olete


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