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PROJECTBEGINNER | WIRE

Build a Wire Bangle with a

Woven Zigzag Pattern Apply entry-level techniques to create

a surprisingly sophisticated effect.by Swati Nigam

facetjewelry.comFCT-

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©2012 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.

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Many of the wire-weaving styles today, though

beautiful, are intricate and complicated to

make — not ideal for a beginner to wire

weaving. However, not all wire weaving has to be difficult! With

these woven bangles, the wire weaving only looks complicated.

Whether you’re new to jewelry making and looking for a quick

project, or you’re an experienced maker looking to pick up a

new skill, these bangles are sure to please.

Build a Wire Bangle with a

Woven Zigzag Pattern

materials ■ Sterling silver wire, round, dead-soft:

■ 16-gauge (1.3 mm), length according to bangle size

■ 26-gauge (0.4 mm), length according to bangle size

toolboxes ■ Wirework ■ Soldering ■ Finishing

put some zing in your zigzagIf you want to create a set of bangles with a bit of color to them, feel free to substitute colored craft wire for the weaving wire. Depending on the colors you choose, you can have stackable bangles to match any wardrobe!

Weaving right to left

Weaving left to right

Tail

X2

Wire end

X2 X2 X2 X2

5 4 3 2 1

1

Wire end

X2 X2 X2

5 4 3 2 1

X2

5 4 3 2 1

Weaving right to left

Weaving left to right

Tail

X2

Wire end

X2 X2 X2 X2

5 4 3 2 1

1

Wire end

X2 X2 X2

5 4 3 2 1

X2

5 4 3 2 1

Weaving right to left

Weaving left to right

Tail

X2

Wire end

X2 X2 X2 X2

5 4 3 2 1

1

Wire end

X2 X2 X2

5 4 3 2 1

X2

5 4 3 2 1

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1Determine the size of your finished bangle by wrapping

a piece of string around your hand at its widest point. Position your hand as if you were putting on a bracelet. Hold the string snugly, and then cut it to the correct size.

2 Cut five pieces of 16-gauge (1.3 mm) sterling silver wire

to the length of the string you measured. File both ends of each wire piece flat, then wrap each wire around a bracelet mandrel to form it into a rough circle. Bring the two ends of each wire piece together, and make sure the ends meet flush.

3 Flux one of the wire circles, and place it on a soldering

block. Place a pallion of hard solder under the join. Heat the circle slowly and evenly. When the flux becomes glassy, concentrate the heat around the join until the solder flows. Quench, pickle, rinse, and dry the circle. Repeat to solder the remaining circles.

4 Place one of the circles on the mandrel and lightly

tap it with a rawhide mallet to make it more consistent in shape. Repeat to shape all the remaining circles.

NOTE: The circles don’t need to be perfectly round at this stage; you’ll refine their shape later on.

5 Cut a 2–3-ft. (61.0–91.4 cm) piece of 26-gauge (0.4 mm)

sterling silver wire to use as weaving wire. Wrap the wire two times around one circle clockwise, leaving a 1-in. (25.5 mm) wire tail [Figure 1].

6 Position a second circle to the left of the first one, and

run the weaving wire under-neath the second circle. Wrap the weaving wire clockwise around the second circle twice. Weave tightly so the two circles sit right next to each other.

7 Repeat adding and weaving until you have woven all

five circles together [Figure 2].

NOTE: Circle 1 is the circle you started with on the right, and circle 5 is the one you ended with on the left.

8 To complete a full weave, you need to weave back to

circle 1. To do this, you must change the direction of your weaving wire. Run the weaving wire underneath circle 4, and wrap the weaving wire twice, this time counterclockwise [Figure 3]. Repeat for circles 3, 2, and 1, always weaving up from under the circle wire [Figure 4].

Continue weaving right to left (clockwise) and then left to right (counterclockwise) until the weave is complete all the way around the bangle.Figure 1

Figure 2Figure 4

Figure 3

Weaving left to right Weaving right to left

ASK THE ARTIST: SWATI NIGAM

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ending and beginning wıre sectıonsWhen you are near the end of your weaving wire, leave a 1–2-in. (25.5–51 mm) tail at the end, and continue with a new piece of weaving wire from that position. Once you’ve reestablished the weave with the new weaving wire, trim the tail of the previous one. If you wrap tightly, the 26-gauge (0.4 mm) wire holds well even after it is trimmed.

When you trim a wire tail, make sure to pull it up tightly against the circle wire with flatnose pliers, and trim it flush to the circle it is wrapped around. Trim the tail on the outside of the circle wire so it won’t poke your wrist when the bangle is worn. Use the pliers to press the trimmed end down against the circle.

9 Place the woven bangle on the bracelet mandrel, and

tap it with the rawhide mallet to give it a circular shape and to harden it.

10 If you want a shiny finish, put the bangle in a tumbler for 2–3 hours to harden and

polish it.11 If you wish to give the weaving depth by

antiquing it, first clean the bangle with steel wool. Dissolve a tiny bit of liver of sulfur in some warm water. Dip the bangle in the liver of sulfur, and then quickly rinse it in cool water. Continue to dip and rinse until you have achieved your desired color. Dry the bangle, and lightly rub it with steel wool to highlight the wire weaving. Tumble the bangle for about an hour to harden and polish it.

If you had to switch media tomorrow, which would you choose, and why?I would have to say metal clay. I have not worked much with it, but I love the versatility it offers and the flexi- bility with all of the beautiful textures you can use! I also like the fact that it does not need too many tools or too much space.Contact: fleurviolettejewelry. blogspot.com.

Process photos by Swati N

igam.