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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Andrew Boyd, Anne Hickman B Baiba Plepe C Caroline Perks, Cindy De Storme, Cornelis Oudemans D Dany Cuyt, Dr Peter Evans F Francis Donvil G Gert Venghaus, Giulia Ramoni H Helena Maria da Costa J Jordi Mas K Kate Gunn, Kim Harries M Maaike de Jong, Marijke van der Heijden, Mary Stone, Michael Schutz-bank N Nadine Blanc, Natalie Hedges, Neil Hankinson, Neil Hart, Noor van Hapert P Philip Mansbridge R Rajmon Zsófia, Romuald Lam-brigts T Theresa Eberle

AUTHOR THANKS Anthony HamHeartfelt thanks to Matt Phillips and Peter Ndirangu, two wise companions of the Africa road of long-standing. Thanks also to Stuart Butler, Kate Thomas, Luke Hunter, Philipp Henschel, Thomas Temple, George Muriuki, Leela Hazzah, Stephanie Dolrenry, Kamunu Saitoti, Eric ole Kesoi, Richard Bonham, Ro-sie Kempson, Alex Walters, Nadia Walford, Lucy Cameron (Lewa Safari Camp), Wanjiku Kinuthia (Lewa Wildlife Conservancy), An-nick Mitchell (Ol Pejeta), Daryll Pleasants (Ol Pejeta), Luca Belpietro (Campi y Kanzi),

Jens Kozany (Segera Retreat), Tamsin Cor-coran (Mbulia Conservancy), Katito Sayialel (Amboseli), Dr Cynthia Moss (Amboseli). To Marina, Carlota and Valentina – next time with you.

Stuart ButlerI have a huge cast of the great and good to thank for their help in my chapters of this book. So, in no particular order thanks to Riccardo Orizio, Nikki Rushmere, Chelsea McNabb, Raymond Gachie, Dixon Yaile, Senior Nchoe, Fatima Salim and, for superb babysitting skills, Moureen Mwelehi Uside at Saruni. Rosie Kemp-son, Henrietta Remnant, Julia Mut and Stefano Cheli at Cheli & Peacock. Calvin Cottar, Kitipa Malaya, Dalmas Mayani, Phanice Chitambe, Charlotte, James, Dolores Candelaria and bow-and-arrow makers extraordinaire, Moses Kinyaika and Enkarani Ekarani at Cottars Safa-ris. Ron, Margaret and Helen at the Safari Col-lection and Sasaab Lodge. Emma Hedges and team at Desert Rose in the far north of Kenya. In the Samburu area, thank you to Mohamed Leeresh. In Kitale area, thank you to Richard Barnley and his mother for their hospitality. For a delightful few days ‘holiday’ at the beach, thanks to Ida Trygg-Andersson and Lucy and Betty at Kinondo Kwetu. For superb driving, guiding, friendship and more, thanks to Peter Wachira Motto, Peter Drango, Simon Wambugu and, as always, George Muriuki. Thank you also to all those wonderful people at Ewangan

Behind the Scenes

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BEHIN

D THE SCEN

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village for giving me some of the more mem-orable moments of my life. Among the many I must thank there are Kermut Muntet, Samuel Kudate, Angelina Kiluya (good luck with the baby), Caroline, Mpoe, Shinka, John Tubula Lesaloi and of course James Ole Lesaloi. Oh, and Jake wants to thank Simon and the other village children for being his friends.

Thank you for interesting conversation to Svein Wilhelmsen of Basecamp and to Petronilla Gichimu. For a memorable night in the hot springs of Maji Moto thank you to Nevenka Lepenik, Sankale Ole Ntutu and Kiseia Ole Kool. Thank you also to Jan Geu Grootenhuis and staff of Maasai Trails and Jans Camp in the Loita Hills. At Olarro Lodge thank you to Sean Matthews, William Hofmeyr and Barbara Ripamonti. At Great Plains Conservation, Bush & Beyond and Mara Plains and Mara Toto, thank you to Amy Rostance, Shaun Mousley, Stella Wanjoya, Hilton Walker and Kerin Larby.

Finally, and most importantly, I must thank my wife, Heather, and young children, Jake and Grace, for their love, help and support on this very long project and for being such fun to travel with in the Mara region for a couple of weeks.

Kate ThomasI’m grateful to so many Kenyans and Kenya residents for sharing thoughts, time, exper-tise and long bus rides. They include Fatiya Salim, Bakari Chongo, Joseph Mwangi, Jeff, Nickson Gatimu, Peter Mbutu, Simon Ndon-ga, Zoe and Andrew Nightingale, the Car-nelleys, Oliver and Max, Hannah McNeish, Romain Mari and the Kilifi crew, Anselmo Blake, Ivan Lieman, Eugene Cooper and many others. A big thank you to Mike Pflanz for the tips and space to write, and to Iain Olivier for his invaluable assistance with the Lamu chapter and good cheer. And at Lonely Planet, huge thanks go out to Matt Phillips, Lauren Wellicome and to my co- authors Stuart Butler and Anthony Ham.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633¬44.

Cover photograph: Maasai warrior, Kenya. Buena Vista Images / Getty ©

THIS BOOK This 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s Kenya guidebook was researched and written by Anthony Ham. Stuart Butler and Kate Thomas. The Wildlife & Habitat chapter was written by David Lukas. The previous two editions were written by Stuart Butler, Matthew Fires-tone, Anthony Ham, Paula Hardy and Adam Karlin, with

contributing author David Lukas (Wildlife & Habitat).Destination Editor Matt PhillipsProduct Editors Alison Ridgway, Amanda WilliamsonSenior Cartographer Corey HutchisonBook Designers Virginia Moreno, Wibowo RusliAssisting Editors Andrew Bain, Katie Connolly, Melanie

Dankel, Carly Hall, Charlotte Orr, Monique Perrin Assisting Cartographer Julie Dodkins, Anthony PhelanCover Researcher Naomi Parker Language Content Branislava VladisavljevicThanks to Sasha Baskett, Elin Berglund, Ryan Evans, Elizabeth Jones, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Ellie Simpson, Angela Tinson, Samantha Tyson, Lauren Wellicome

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

406

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAberdare National Park 16,

150-3, 152, 16Aberdares, the 16, 147-53, 16accommodation 18, 22, 47,

368-70, see also lodges, individual locations

language 398security 376

activities 24-5, 40-5, 47, 44, see also adventure sports, ballooning safaris, birdwatching, boat safaris, camel safaris, camping safaris, caving, climbing, cycling, diving, fishing, flying safaris, hiking, horse riding, lion tracking, Maasai homestays, nature walks, safaris, sailing, snorkelling, walking tours

Adamson, Joy 93, 178adventure sports 221-2African fish eagles 108, 130,

344, 344-5 African wild dogs 164, 195,

278, 343, 342-3air travel 382-3, 385 airports

Jomo Kenyatta International Airport 19, 84, 382

Moi International Airport 19, 382

Wilson Airport 84-5, 382Amboseli National Park

9, 183-6, 185, 9amoebic dysentery 396animals, see Big Five, birds,

wildlife, individual animals

antelopes 336, 21, 336-7Aberdare National Park

150-3

Amboseli National Park 183-6

Hell’s Gate National Park 96-8

Masai Mara National Reserve 112-20

Ruma National Park 129-30, 21

Saiwa Swamp National Park 145

Shimba Hills National Reserve 218-19

Tsavo East National Park 195-8

Arabuko Sokoke Forest Reserve 244

archaeological sites, see also prehistoric sites, ruins

Gede Ruins 245-7, 247Hyrax Hill Prehistoric

Site 102Jumba la Mtwana 235 Kariandusi 98Kalacha 291Mfangano Island 131Mnarani 238Nabahani ruins 266Shanga 266Takwa Ruins 264-5Thimlich Ohinga

Archaeological Site 130Archer’s Post 273-4architecture 265area codes 19art galleries, see museums

& gallariesarts 317-20ATMs 373 augur buzzards 344

Bbaboons 333, 35, 332-3

Chyulu Hills National Park 188

Lake Nakuru National Park 102-5

Mt Elgon National Park 142-5

Ol Donyo Sabuk National Park 180


Baden-Powell, Lord 148ballooning safaris 41,

115-16, 44Bamburi Beach 233-4bandas 368-9Baragoi 286bateleurs 344 bathrooms 378beaches 22, 29, 47

Bamburi Beach 233-4Diani Beach 220-6, 220Kilifi Creek 238Manda Island 264Nyali Beach 230-2Shanzu Beach 234-5Shela Beach 262Tiwi Beach 219-20, 220

bicycle travel, see cyclingBig Five 27, see also

buffaloes, elephants, leopards, lions, rhinos


Lake Nakuru National Park 102-5

Lewa Wildlife Conservancy 162-4

Lumo Community Wildlife Sanctuary 200-1


Nairobi National Park 60-2, 63

Ol Pejeta Conservancy 159-62


Tsavo West National Park 188-95

bilharzia (schistosomiasis) 393

Bio-Ken Snake Farm & Laboratory 241

birdsAfrican fish eagles 108,

130, 344, 344-5augur buzzards 344bateleurs 344flamingos 50, 89, 93, 98,

102, 292, 347, 346-7hornbills 108, 138, 142, 12 lappet-faced vultures

344, 344lilac-breasted rollers

347, 347ostriches 86, 196, 274,

347, 11, 346pelicans 98, 102secretary birds 344, 345storks 128, 347, 346vulturine guineafowls 347

birdwatching 20-1, 24, 25, 36



Crater Lake Game Sanctuary 93

Funzi Island 227Gogo River Bird

Sanctuary 63 Kakamega Forest

National Reserve 136-8Kesubo Swamp 107Lake Baringo 108-9Lake Bogoria National

Reserve 106-8Lake Elmenteita 98-9Lake Nakuru National

Park 102-5 Lekurruki Community

Ranch 165Lumo Community Wildlife

Sanctuary 200-1Mt Elgon National

Park 142-5Mwea National

Reserve 179


407IN

DEX B

-C Nairobi 65Saiwa Swamp National

Park 145Tsavo East National

Park 195-8Tsavo West National

Park 188-95black market 373Blixen, Karen 64, 85boat safaris, see also boat

travel, dhow trips, sailing

Funzi Island 227Lake Baringo 108 Lake Naivasha 93-4Lake Oloiden 93Lake Victoria 125-6Tana River 253

boat travel 384-5, 386, 390, see also boat safaris, dhow trips, sailing

Manda Island 265Mombasa 217Paté Island 267

boda-bodas 390books 296, see also

literaturechildren’s 48culture 315, 319,environment 351fauna 357, 359history 304, 306, 358,politics 308, 309 359,

Borana Conservancy 164border crossings, see also

visasEthiopia 283, 383Somalia 383South Sudan 384Tanzania 201, 384-5Uganda 132, 384

Born Free 93, 178budget safaris 36budgeting 19Buffalo Springs National

Reserve 274-7, 275 buffaloes 336, 336-7, see

also Big FiveAberdare National

Park 150-3 Chyulu Hills National

Park 188Hell’s Gate National

Park 96-8Lake Bogoria National

Reserve 106-8Marsabit National

Park 281-2Matthews Range 278 Mt Elgon National

Park 142-5

Mwea National Reserve 179

Segera Ranch 159Shimba Hills National

Reserve 218-19 Solio Game Reserve 153-4

Bukusu Circumcision Festival 131

bullfighting 122bus travel 385, 386business hours 19, 374butterflies 52

Kakamega Forest 136-8Lekurruki Community

Ranch 165Ngangao Forest 201Shimba Hills National

Reserve 218-19Bamburi Beach 233 Vuma Cliffs 240

Ccamel safaris 36

Maralal 284, 285Nanyuki 156-7northern Kenya 286

camping safaris 36, 396car travel 387-90, 401 caracals 330, 330caves

Cave of Skulls 201Elkony Caves 144Leviathan 188Mau Mau Cave 101Obsidian Cave 97Shetani Caves 192Slave Caves 228

caving 51, 188, 192cell phones 18central highlands 51,

146-80accommodation 146climate 146highlights 147, 147history 150nature 146planning 146travel seasons 146tribes 310-11wildlife 149

Central Island National Park 292

Chale Island 226-7cheetahs 20, 329, 21, 329


Mara North Conservancy 121


Naboisho Conservancy 122


Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary 199-200



Cherangani Hills 142children, travel with 46-9Chogoria 177-8cholera 393Chyulu Hills National

Park 188cinema 296, 305, 320climate 24-5, see also

individual regionsclimate change 383climbing 41, 42

Hell’s Gate National Park 96-8

Mt Kenya National Park 165-71

Nairobi 65Ndoto Mountains 278Ngulia Hills 193Rukinga Wildlife

Sanctuary 198 Tembo Peak 193

cloud forests 188Colobus Conservation

Centre 220colobuses 335, 334-5

Colobus Conservation Centre 220

Kakamega Forest 136-8Lake Nakuru National

Park 102-5Mt Elgon National

Park 142-5Ol Donyo Sabuk National

Park 180 Saiwa Swamp National

Park 145 Soysambu

Conservancy 98conservancies &

conservation centres 359-61, 366, see also marine parks, national parks, national reserves

Borana Conservancy 164Colobus Conservation

Centre 220 Donkey Sanctuary 257Kalama Community

Wildlife Conservancy 277

Kipini Wildlife Conservancy 253

Kitale Nature Conservancy 141

Lewa Wildlife Conservancy 162-4

Mara North Conservancy 121

Masai Mara area 120Mbulia Conservancy

194-5Mt Kenya Wildlife

Conservancy Animal Orphanage 156

Naboisho Conservancy 122

Ol Pejeta Conservancy 159-62

Olare-Orok Conservancy 123

Olarro Conservancy 123Olderikesi

Conservancy 123Samburu area

conservancies 277-8Selenkay Conservancy

186Siana Group Ranch &

Conservancy 123-4Soysambu

Conservancy 98Swara Plains

Conservancy 86West Gate Community

Conservancy 277conservation projects

23, 360Amboseli Trust for

Elephants 184, 355Big Life Foundation

186, 358David Sheldrick Wildlife

Trust 63-4East African Whale Shark

Trust 226East African Wildlife

Society 360Friends of Nairobi

National Park 63Green Belt Movement

356Kakamega

Environmental Education Programme 135

Kasigau 198Kilifi 239Laikipia Wildlife Forum

153, 360Lake Turkana Wind

Power 361Maasai Wilderness

Conservation Trust 187

408

IND

EX C-G

Masailand Preservation Trust 186

Rhino Ark 356Save the Elephants 355Wildlife Direct 358Zeitz Foundation 159

Constant Gardener, the 73consulates 370-1Coriolis force 158, see

also equatorcosts 19, 32, 34, 370courses

conservation 380diving 221, 229, 238language 372, 381

craft centresAkamba Handicraft

Industry Cooperative Society 215

Banana Box 79Bombolulu Workshops &

Cultural Centre 232Elmenteita Weavers 96Fired Earth 96Kazuri Beads & Pottery

Centre 64-5Kenana Knitters 106Lily Pond Arts

Centre 158Nanyuki Spinners &

Weavers 158Shanzu Transitional

Workshop 235Souk 79Spinners Web 80Undugu Craft Shop 80Utamaduni 79

credit cards 373crocodiles


Funzi Island 227Masai Mara National

Reserve 112-20Ndere Island National

Park 125Nyali Beach 230-2South Island National

Park 288Tana River 252-3

Crying Stone of Ilesi 136-7cultural centres

African Heritage House 65

Bomas of Kenya 65Bombolulu Workshops &

Cultural Centre 232

Ngomongo Villages 234cultural projects 23

Ewangan 118Kasigau 198Kilifi 239Semadep 118

culture 46, 296-7, 315Lamu 236Masai Mara 110Mombasa 202Nairobi 54north coast 236 northern Kenya 268south coast 202southern Rift Valley 87western Kenya 110

currency 18customs regulations 370cycling 38, 41, 385-6,

401, 44Hell’s Gate National

Park 96-8Ol Pejeta Conservancy

159-62

Ddangers, see safetyDavid Sheldrick Wildlife

Trust 63-4de Brazza’s monkeys 335,

334 Kakamega Forest

National Reserve 136-8 Mt Elgon National Park

142-5 Saiwa Swamp National

Park 145dengue fever 393deserts 30, 348, 352dhow trips 22, 386, 2, 14,

49, see also boat safaris, boat travel, sailing

Kiwayu Island 267Lamu 263Mombasa 211 south coast 226

Diani Beach 220-6, 220accommodation 222-4activities 221-2drinking & nightlife 225festivals & events 222food 224-5information 225-6sights 220-1travel to/from 226

Dida Galgalu Desert 282Dinesen, Isak 64, 85, see

also Out of Africa

diphtheria 393disabilities, travellers

with 378-9diving 22, 43, 45

Diani Beach 220-6Kilifi 238-41Kisite Marine National

Park 228-9Wasini Island 229-30Watamu 241-4

drinking & nightlife, see individual locations

drinks 322-4, 325-6, 400driving 387-90, 401

EEast African Safari Rally 25East African Whale Shark

Trust 226ecotourism 360Egerton Castle 106Eldoret 138-40, 139electricity 370Elephant Research

Camp 184elephant shrews 244, 245 elephants 20, 339, 355,

9, 15, 17, 339, see also Big Five

Aberdare National Park 150-3


David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust 63-4

Laikipia 161Lekurruki Community

Ranch 165Marsabit National

Park 281-2Matthews Range 273Mt Elgon National

Park 142-5Mugie Ranch 155Mwaluganje Elephant

Sanctuary 219Samburu National

Reserve 274-7Shimba Hills National

Reserve 218-19Eliye Springs 293-4Elsa’s grave 176embassies 370-1Embu 178-9, 179emergencies 19, 400environment 351-61environmental issues 229,

289, 354-5Lake Victoria 124Masai Mara National

Reserve 117

Rift Valley lakes 107equator 105, 158Ethiopia 283, 383events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 19

FFaza 266female genital

mutilation 316Ferguson’s Gulf 294festivals & events 24-5, see

also sporting eventsBukusu Circumcision

Festival 131International Camel

Derby 25, 285Kenya Fashion Week 68Kenya Music

Festival 25, 68Lake Turkana

Festival 25, 290Lamu Cultural

Festival 258Lamu Painters’

Festival 258Maulid Festival 25, 258

film locationsBorn Free 93, 276Constant Gardener,

the 73Out of Africa 59, 65, 159

films 296, 305, 320Fischer’s Tower 98fish eagle 108, 130, 344,

344-5fishing 45, 229

Shimoni Reef 228Watamu 241-4

flamingos 50, 89, 93, 98, 102, 292, 347, 346-7

flying safaris 41, 162, 222food 321-6, 371, see also

individual locationsetiquette 323language 325, 398-400

Fort Jesus 207, 210Funzi Island 227

Ggalleries, see museums

& galleriesgardens, see parks &

gardensgay travellers 371gazelles 336, 336, 337

Lake Nakuru National Park 102-5 Map Pages 000

Photo Pages 000

409IN

DEX G

-LMasai Mara National

Reserve 112-20 Nairobi National Park

60-2, 63 Shimburu National

Reserve 274-7 Solio Game Reserve

153-4 Tsavo West National

Park 188-95Gazi 226-7Gede Ruins 245-7, 247genets 343gerenuks, see gazellesgiardiasis 396Giraffe Centre 63giraffes 339, 358, 338,

350Amboseli National Park

183-6Giraffe Centre 63Hell’s Gate National

Park 96-8Laikipia 161Lake Nakuru National

Park 102-5Lake Naivasha 92-6Masai Mara National

Reserve 112-20Mwea National

Reserve 179 Nairobi National Park

60-2, 63 Ruma National Park

129-30Shimba Hills National

Reserve 218-19Shimburu National

Reserve 274-7Tsavo East National Park

195-8Tsavo West National Park

188-95Gogo River Bird

Sanctuary 63Grevy’s zebras, see zebrasgroup ranches

Il Ngwesi Group Ranch 164

Kimana Group Ranch 187Kuku Group Ranch 187Lekurruki Community

Ranch 165Maji Moto Group Ranch

120-1Mbirikani Group Ranch

186-7Mugie Ranch 155Segera Ranch 159Siana Group Ranch &

Conservancy 123-4

Hhabitat 348-50, 348-9, 350Happy Valley 302Hatton, Denys Finch 64, 85health 392-6healthcare 393Hell’s Gate Gorge 96Hell’s Gate National Park

15, 96-8, 97, 15, 350hepatitis 393-4hiking 21, 42-3, see also

tracksHell’s Gate National

Park 96-8Koitoboss Trek 144Lesiolo Loop 286Longonot National

Park 90Loroghi Hills Circuit 284Lumo Community

Wildlife Sanctuary 200-1

Menengai Crater 101Mt Kenya National Park

165-71Mt Kulal 288Ndoto Mountains 278Northern Moorland 151Ol Lolokwe 273

hippo hide walks 160hippos 340, 340-1


Lake Baringo 108-9Lake Nakuru National

Park 102-5Masai Mara National

Reserve 112-20 Meru National Park 176-7Mwea National

Reserve 179Tana River 252-3Tsavo East National

Park 195-8Tsavo West National

Park 188-95history 298-309

Arabs, Swahili & Portuguese 300-1

British East Africa 301-3first Kenyans 298-9independent Kenya

305-7Kibaki years & beyond

307-9road to independence

303-5hitching 390HIV 394holidays 374-5

Homa Bay 128-9hornbills 108, 138, 142, 12horse riding 153-4, 162-4,

187hot springs, see springshyenas 343, 342





IIl Ngwesi Group Ranch 164immigration 382insurance 372, 392International Camel Derby

25, 285internet access 372internet resources 19, 37-9Isiolo 269, 272-3, 272Islamic holidays 374, 375itineraries 26-30, 34, 36,

26, 27, 28, 29, 30Ivory Burning Monument

61-2

Jjackals 113, 343, 342jewellery 320Jomo Kenyatta

International Airport 19, 84, 382

KKakamega 135-6Kakamega Forest 13, 136-8,

137, 12Kakamega Forest

National Reserve 136-8Kalacha 291-2Kalama Community Wildlife

Conservancy 277Karen Blixen’s House &

Museum 64Kasigau 198Kaya Kinondo 222Kenya highlights 6-7,

8-17, 6-7Kenya Music

Festival 25, 68Kenya Wildlife Service

(KWS) 359Kenyatta, Jomo 303-6 Kericho 133-5, 134Kiambethu Tea Farm 86

Kibera 73Kikopey Nyama Choma

Centre 95Kikuyu 155Kilifi 238-41Kipungani 263-4Kisii 132-3, 133Kisite Marine National

Park 14, 228-9, 14Kisumu 124-8, 125Kitale 140-2, 141Kiwayu Island 267

LLaikipia 11, 51, 153-65, 11Lake Baringo 108-9, 108Lake Bogoria 106-8, 108Lake Elmenteita 98-9Lake Magadi 89Lake Naivasha 92-6, 92Lake Nakuru National

Park 14, 102-5, 103, 14Lake Oloiden 93Lake Turkana 13, 287,

361, 12Lake Turkana Festival

24, 290Lake Victoria 124-32lakes 348, 353

Aruba Dam 196Elmenteita 98-9Lake Amboseli 184Lake Baringo 108-9Lake Bogoria 106-8,Lake Chala 201Lake Jipe 193Lake Turkana 13, 287,

361, 12 Naivasha 92-6Oloiden 93Rift Valley 107Simbi Lake 127Sinet Delta 183

Lamu archipelago 253-67, 253

accommodation 258climate 236culture 236nature 236planning 236travel seasons 236

Lamu (island) 13, 52, 254-64

Lamu (town) 254-62, 255, 256, 13, 28

drinking & nightlife 260festivals & events 258 food 259-60

410

IND

EX L-M

history 254 information 260safety 260, 261 shopping 260sights 254-5travel to/from 261-2travel within 262

language 18, 224, 299, 378, 397-403

language courses 372, 381lappet-faced vultures 344,

344 legal matters 372Lekurruki Community

Ranch 165leopards 20, 329, 328-9

see also Big FiveAberdare National Park

150-3Chyulu Hills National

Park 188Laikipia 161Lake Bogoria 106-8Nairobi National Park

60-2, 63 Mara North

Conservancy 121Marsabit National Park

281-2 lesbian travellers 371Lesiolo 286Lewa Wildlife Conservancy

162-4lilac-breasted rollers 347,

347 lion tracking 160 lions 20, 187, 197, 329,

356-7, 328, see also Big Five

Laikipia 160-1Mara North

Conservancy 121Matthews Range 278Meru National Park 176-7Nairobi National Park

60-2, 63Taita Hills Wildlife

Sanctuary 199-200literature 318-19, see

also bookslocal transport 390-1lodges 22, 37, 146, 161,

370, see also individual locations

Lodwar 293Loita Hills 119Longonot National Park 11,

89-90, 11

Loyangalani 288-90Lumo Community Wildlife

Sanctuary 200-1Lunga Lunga 230

MMaasai homestays

Ewangan 118Il Ngwesi Group

Ranch 164 Mara North

Conservancy 121 Masai Mara National

Reserve 116Semadep 118

Maathai, Wangari 356magazines 370Maji Moto Group Ranch

120-1malaria 394-5Malindi 246, 248-52, 248

accommodation 246, 249-50

activities 246drinking & nightlife 251food 250information 251shopping 251sights 246travel to/from 251travel within 252

Malindi Marine National Park 246

Manda Island 264-5mangroves 226, 245,

264, 352manyattas 116, 118, 121,

164maps 372-3Mara North

Conservancy 121Marafa Depression 252Maralal 283-6, 284marine parks 364, see

also conservancies & conservation centres, national parks, national reserves

Kisite Marine National Park 14, 228-9, 14

Kiunga Marine National Reserve 267

Malindi Marine National Park 246

Mombasa Marine National Park & Reserve 233

Watamu Marine National Park 241

marketsCity Market (Nairobi) 80

Isiolo Market 269Kakamega Market 136Kibuye Market 127Lamu Market 257Maasai Cattle

Market 187Maasai Market 80Main Market (Kisumu)

127 Main Market (Mombasa)

214 Marsabit Market 278-9Spice Market 210Westland Curio

Market 80Marsabit 278-81, 279Marsabit National Park

281-2, 281Masai Mara 51, 110-24

climate 110culture 110highlights 111, 111nature 110planning 110travel seasons 110tribes 312-3wildlife 112

Masai Mara National Reserve 9, 112-20, 114-15, 8-9

accommodation 116-19activities 115-16food 116-19information 119sights 113, 115travel to/from 120-1travel within 120wildlife safaris 115

matatus 390Matondoni 263-4Matthews Range 278Mau Mau rebellion 304, 307Maulid Festival 25, 258 Mbasa Island 130Mbita 130-1Mboya, Tom 130Mbulia Conservancy 194-5measures 370medical services 393Menengai Crater 101meningococcal

meningitis 395Meru 174-6, 174Meru National Park 17,

176-7, 177, 17Mfangano Island 131-2Mida Creek 245migration (animal) 25,

113, 115miraa 175, 311

Mkwiro Village 229mobile phones 18Moi, Daniel arap 306-7Moi International Airport

19, 382Mombasa 52, 202, 203,

204-17, 206, 208-9, 28accommodation 211, 213activities 211climate 202culture 202drinking & nightlife 215festivals & events 211food 214-15history 203-4, 205-7information 216nature 202planning 202safety 205, 216shopping 215-16sights 207, 210-11tours 211travel seasons 202travel to/from 216-17travel within 217tribes 314walking tour 212, 212

Mombasa north 230-5, 231 money 18, 19, 370, 373-4mongooses 343, 343monkeys, see primates,

individual speciesmotorcycle travel 383, 384,

387-90mountain biking, see

cyclingmountaineering, see

climbing mountains 348Moyale 282-3, 282Mt Elgon National Park 16,

142-5, 143, 16Mt Kenya National Park 10,

165-71, 165, 168, 172, 10, 44, 349

Mt Kenya Wildlife Conservancy Animal Orphanage 156

Mt Kilimanjaro 183Mt Kulal 288Mt Longonot 11, 89-90, 11Mt Susua 90Mtwapa 235Mugie Ranch 155museums & galleries

Baden-Powell Museum 148

Elsamere 93Fort Jesus 207, 210Gallery Watatu 80, 320


411IN

DEX M

-P Gede Ruins

Museum 246German Post Office

Museum 257Go-Down Arts Centre

80, 320Karen Blixen’s House &

Museum 64Kisumu Museum 124Kitale Museum 141Lamu Museum 254-5Lily Pond Arts

Centre 156Loyangalani Desert

Museum 289Meru National

Museum 174Morani Information

Centre 160Narok Museum 112National Museum 57-8National Museums of

Kenya 291Old Law Courts 210Railway Museum 59Swahili House 257Taita Hills WWI

Museum 200Treasures of Africa

Museum 141music 317-18Mutunga, Peter 158Mwaluganje Elephant

Sanctuary 219

NNaboisho Conservancy 122Nairobi 50, 54-85, 56-7,

66-7, 70accommodation 68-74activities 65climate 54culture 54drinking & nightlife 76-9entertainment 79festivals & events 68food 74-6highlights 55, 55history 55, 57information 80-3itineraries 59nature 54planning 54safety 80-2shopping 79-80sights 57-65tours 65, 68travel seasons 54travel to/from 83-4travel within 84-5

Nairobi–Mombasa Railway 217

Nairobi National Park 15, 60-2, 63, 60-1, 15

Naivasha 90-1, 91Nakuru 99-101, 100Namanga 183Nanyuki 155-9, 156Narok 112Naro Moru 171, 173-4National Museum 57-8national parks 362-6, see

also conservancies & conservation centres, marine parks, national reserves

Aberdare National Park 16, 150-3, 152, 16

Amboseli National Park 9, 183-6, 185, 9


Chyulu Hills National Park 188

Hell’s Gate National Park 15, 96-8, 97, 15, 350

Kimana Gate 184Lake Nakuru National

Park 14, 102-5, 103, 14Longonot National Park

11, 89-90, 11Marsabit National Park

281-2, 281Meru National Park 17,

176-7, 177, 17Mt Elgon National Park

16, 142-5, 143, 16Mt Kenya National Park

10, 165-71, 165, 168, 172, 10, 44, 349

Nairobi National Park 15, 60-2, 63, 60-1, 15

Ndere Island National Park 125

Ol Donyo Sabuk National Park 180

Rhino Sanctuary 176Ruma National Park

129-30, 21Saiwa Swamp National

Park 145Sibiloi National Park 291South Island National

Park 288Tsavo West National

Park 10, 188-95, 190-1, 10

Tsavo East National Park 195-8, 190-1

national reserves 362-6, see also conservancies & conservation centres,

marine parks, national parks


Buffalo Springs National Reserve 274-7, 275

Kakamega Forest National Reserve 136-8

Lake Baringo National Reserve 108-9, 108

Lake Bogoria National Reserve 106-8, 108

Masai Mara National Reserve 9, 112-20, 114-15, 8-9

Samburu National Reserve 11, 274-7, 275, 11, 348-9

Shaba National Reserve 274-7, 275


naturecentral highlands 146Laikipia 146Lamu 236Masai Mara 110Mombasa 202Nairobi 54north coast 236northern Kenya 268south coast 202southeastern Kenya 181southern Rift Valley 87 western Kenya 110

nature walks, see also tours, safaris, tracks, walking tours


Archer’s Post 273Crater Lake Game

Sanctuary 93Il Ngwesi Group Ranch

164Kakamega 135Kakamega Forest

National Reserve 137Lake Baringo 108Masai Mara National

Reserve 116Mt Kenya 171 Ol Pejeta Conservancy

160Ndoto Mountains 278newspapers 370Ngong Hills 85-6Ngurunit 278Njoro 105-6north coast 52, 236-67

climate 236culture 236highlights 237, 237nature 236planning 236travel seasons 236wildlife 254

North Horr 290north of Mombasa 230-5,

231northern Kenya 52, 268-94

climate 268culture 268highlights 270-1, 270-1nature 268planning 268safety 280travel seasons 268travel within 273tribes 313-14wildlife 269

Nyahururu (Thomson’s Falls) 154, 154

Nyali Beach 230-2nyama choma 321, 322Nyeri 148-50, 148

Ooff the beaten track 22-3oil 289Ol Lolokwe 273Ol Pejeta Conservancy

159-62 Olare-Orok Conservancy

123Olarro Conservancy 123Olderikesi Conservancy 123Olorgasailie Prehistoric

Site 89opening hours 19, 374ostriches 86, 196, 274, 347,

11, 346Out of Africa 59, 64,

65, 159

Ppainting 320parks & gardens

American Embassy Memorial Garden 60

Arboretum 134Kakamega Forest

Reserve 137Uhuru Park 59

Parliament House 59-60passports 382patas monkeys 159, 333,

333Paté Island 265-7

412

IND

EX P-T

pelicans 98, 102 photography 374pilau 321plains zebras, see zebrasplanning, see also

individual regionsactivities 40-5border crossings 132,

201, 283, 383, 384-5calendar of events 24-5children, travl with 46-9costs 18-19, 32, 34internet resources 19,

37-9, 41, 43, itineraries 26-30, 26, 27,

28, 29, 30Kenya basics 18-19Kenya’s highlights 6-7,

8-17, 6-7Kenya’s regions 50-2safaricard 364safaris 31-9, 35travel seasons 18-19, 24-5visas 18, 379-80, 382

poaching 193, 358, 366politics 296-7population 297postal services 374prehistoric sites 298, see

also archaeological sites, ruins

Cradle of Humankind 58Olorgasailie Prehistoric

Site 89primates 160

baboons 102-5, 142-5, 180, 188, 218-19, 333, 35, 332-3

colobuses 98, 102-5, 136-8, 142-4, 145, 220, 180, 335, 334-5

de Brazza’s monkeys 136-8, 142-4, 145, 335, 334

lesser Galagos 335, 335patas monkeys 159,

333, 333vervet monkeys 145, 333,

332-3public holidays 374-5

QQueen Elizabeth II 153

R

rabies 395Radad 105radio 370Railway Museum 59Ramsar List of Wetlands

of International Importance sites, see wetlands

religion 297, 316Rhino Sanctuary 176 rhinos 20, 340, 355-6, 341

see also Big FiveBorana Conservancy 164David Sheldrick Wildlife

Trust 63-4Meru National Park 176-7Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary

189Solio Game Reserve

153-4Rift Valley, see southern

Rift ValleyRift Valley fever 395rivers 348, 353road distances 387rock climbing, see climbingRock hyraxes 340Rothschild’s giraffes, see

giraffesruins, Swahili, see also

archaeological sites, prehistoric sites

Gede Ruins 245-7Jumba la Mtwana 235 Kirepwe Island 245Mnarani 238Nabahani ruins 266Shanga 266Takwa Ruins 264-5

Ruma National Park 129-30, 21

Run with Lions 25Rusinga Island 130-1

Ssacred forests 222safaricard 364safaris 24, 26, 31-9, 46,

364, 35, see also tours, tracks, nature walks, individual locations

safety 375-7gay & lesbian

travellers 371home brew 324Lamu 260, 261Mombasa 205Nairobi 80-2northern Kenya 280snakes 250

sailing 45, 238, see also boat travel, boat safaris, dhow trips

Saiwa Swamp National Park 145

Samburu area conservancies 277-8

Samburu National Reserve 11, 274-7, 275, 11, 348-9

savannah 348, 351-2scams 376-7

money 373safaris 32

sculpture 132-3, 320secretary birds 344, 345Segera Ranch 159servals 330, 330-1sex tourism 234Shaba National Reserve

274-7, 275Shanzu Beach 234-5Shela 262-3Sheldrick, David 63-4Shimba Hills National

Reserve 218-19Shimoni 227-30Siana Group Ranch &

Conservancy 123-4Sibiloi National Park 291Siyu 266sky diving 221Slave Caves 228slave trade 204, 300smoking 370Snake Park 58snakes 250snorkelling 22, 43, 45

Diani Beach 221Kisite Marine National

Park 228-9Manda Toto Island 264 Watamu 241

Somalia 383south coast 52, 202-35

climate 202costs 227culture 202highlights 203, 203history 203-4nature 202planning 202travel seasons 202tribes 314wildlife 223

South Horr 287South Island National

Park 288South Sudan 384southeastern Kenya 51,

181-201accommodation 181climate 181highlights 182, 182nature 181planning 181tribes 312-13,travel seasons 181

southern Rift Valley 50, 87-109, 351, 353

climate 87culture 87highlights 88, 88itineraries 30, 30nature 87planning 87travel seasons 87tribes 310-11, wildlife 89

Spice Market 210sporting events, see also

festivals & eventsbullfighting 122Diani Rules 222East African Safari

Rally 25Lamu Yoga Festival 258Lewa Safaricom

Marathon 163Mombasa Triathlon 211Run with Lions 25Tusker Safari

Sevens 25, 68springs

Eliye Springs 293-4Lake Bogoria National

Reserve 107 Lake Elmenteita 98Lake Magadi 89 Maji Moto Group Ranch

120-1Mzima Springs 189Suam Hot Springs 144

storks 128, 347, 346 Swahili 18, 224, 378,

397-403Swara Plains

Conservancy 86

TTaita Hills 199Taita Hills Wildlife

Sanctuary 199-200Takwa Ruins 264-5Tana River 252-3Tanzania 201, 384-5tea 135, 322-3tea plantations

Kericho 133-4Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

413IN

DEX T-W

Kiambethu Tea Farm 86

telephone services 18, 377television 370terrorism 297, 377textiles 320Thesiger, Wilfred 284Thika 180Thimlich Ohinga

Archaeological Site 130Thiong’o, Ngũgĩ wa 306time 377-8tipping 374Tiwi Beach 219-20, 220toilets 378tourist information 378tours 384, see also safaris,

tracks, walking toursArabuko Sokoke Forest

Reserve 244dhows 211, 226, 263Doinyo Lessos

Creameries Cheese Factory 138

flower farms 94Kakamega Forest 137Kibera 65, 68Kisumu 126Lake Barino 108-9Menengai Crater 101Mfangano Island 131-2Mombasa 211Nairobi 58, 62Nakuru 99Saiwa Swamp National

Park 145tea plantations 86, 133-4Wasini Island 229WWI 199, 200

tracksBuffalo Circuit 97Lake Circuit 102Lesiolo Loop 286Loroghi Hills Circuit 284 Mara Circuit 34Northern Circuit 36Southern Circuit 34, 36

train travel 217transport 48, 382-91, 401travel seasons 24-5, see

also individual regionstravel to/from Kenya 19,

382-5border crossings 132,

201, 283, 383, 384-5 language 401 visas 18, 379-80, 382

travel within Kenya 19, 385-91

tribes 310-14, 315-16Akamba 312

Borana 313El Molo 289-90, 314Gabbra 314Gusii 311-12Kalenjin 310Kikuyu 150, 155, 310Luhya 311Luo 311Maasai 116, 117, 118, 120,

312-13Meru 310-11Mijikenda 222Rendille 314Samburu 273, 274,

278, 311Swahili 224, 265, 299,

300, 314, 378Taita 313Turkana 313

Tsavo East National Park 195-8, 190-1

Tsavo West National Park 10, 188-95, 190-1, 10

accommodation 193-4activities 189, 192-3food 193-4information 194sights 189, 192-3travel to/from 194

turtles 241Tusker Safari Sevens

25, 68typhoid 395

Uugali 322Uganda 132, 384Umoja Village 273, 274Unesco World Heritage

Sites 354Central Island National

Park 292Fort Jesus 207, 210Kaya Kinondo 222Lake Bogoria 106-8, 108Lake Elmenteita 98-9Lake Nakuru 102-5, 103Lamu 254-62, 256Lewa Wildlife

Conservancy 162-4Mt Kenya National Park

165-71, 165, 168Sibiloi National Park 291South Island National

Park 288

Vvacations 374-5vaccinations 392

vegetarian & vegan travellers 325-6

vervet monkeys 145, 333, 332-3

viewpointsBaboon Cliffs 104Elephant Hill 218Kenyatta Conference

Centre 58-9Lake Magadi 89Marere Dam 218Menengai Crater 101Normatior (Observation

Hill) 183Out of Africa Lookout

104Poacher’s Lookout 192Roaring Rocks 189, 192Shetani Lava Flows 192

visas 18, 379-80, 382, see also border crossings

Voi 198-9Voi War Cemetery 198volcanoes 11, 13

Central Island 292Mt Kenya 10, 165-71Mt Longonot 11, 89-90, Mt Susua 90Shetani Lava Flows 192Teleki 13

volunteering 380-1vulturine guineafowls 347Vuma Cliffs 240

Wwalking, see hikingwalking tours, see also

nature walks, tracks, tours, tracks

Gede Ruins 247, 247Lamu 255, 255Mombasa 212, 212

warthogs 340, 340Wasini Island 227-30Watamu 16, 241-4, 241,

242, 17Watamu Marine National

Park 241waterbucks 336waterfalls

Lugards Falls 196Makalia Falls 104Sheldrick Falls 218Thomson’s Falls 154

water sports 45Diani Beach 220-6, 220Watamu 16, 241-4, 241,

242, 17 Wasini Island 229

weather 24-5websites 19, 37-9weights 370western highlands 132-45western Kenya 51, 110-45

climate 110culture 110highlights 111, 111nature 110planning 110travel seasons 110tribes 311-12wildlife 112

Westlands 70wetlands 30, 353

Lake Baringo 108-9, 108Lake Bogoria 106-8, 108Lake Elmenteita 98-9Lake Naivasha 92-6, 92Lake Nakuru 102-5

wild dogs 164, 195, 278, 343, 342-3

wildcats 330wildebeests 336, 8-9,

336-7Amboseli National Park

183-6Chyulu Hills National

Park 188Mara North

Conservancy 121Masai Mara National

Reserve 112-20 migration 25, 113, 115

wildlife 23, 31-9, 327-50, 327-50 see also Big Five, birds, individual animals

central highlands 149Masai Mara 112Rift Valley 89western Kenya 112

wildlife reserves, see also zoos

Baobab Adventure 233Colobus Conservation

Centre 220Crater Lake Game

Sanctuary 93Crescent Island 93David Sheldrick Wildlife

Trust 63-4Elephant Research

Camp 184Giraffe Centre 63Gogo River Bird

Sanctuary 63Haller Park 233Impala Sanctuary 124Kimana Community

414

IND

EX W-Z


Wildlife Sanctuary 187Lumo Community

Wildlife Sanctuary 200-1

Maralal National Sanctuary 284

Mbasa Island 130Mwaluganje Elephant

Sanctuary 219 Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary

189Ol Pejeta Conservancy

159-62Rhino Sanctuary 176Rukinga Wildlife

Sanctuary 198Solio Game Reserve 153-4Taita Hills Wildlife

Sanctuary 199-200Watamu Turtle Watch 241

wildlife safaris, see birdwatching, safaris

wildlife sanctuaries, see wildlife reserves, zoos

Wilson Airport 84-5, 382wind farms 289windsurfing 244women in Kenya 316, 319women travellers 381woodcarving 320, 354-5work 381Wundanyi 201WWI 198, 199, 200, 303WWII 303-4, 305

Yyellow fever 395-6

Zzebras 339, 357-8, 2, 8-9,

44, 338-9Amboseli National Park

183-6 Chyulu Hills National

Park 188 Hell’s Gate National

Park 96-8

Kalama Community Wildlife Conservancy 277

Laikipia 161Lake Naivasha 92-6Lake Nakuru National

Park 102-5 Lewa Wildlife

Conservancy 162-4Masai Mara National

Reserve 112-20 Meru National

Park 176-7Mugie Ranch 155Nairobi National Park

60-2, 63Ol Pejeta Conservancy

159-62 Ruma National Park

129-30 Samburu National

Reserve 274-7 Segera Ranch 159Shimburu National

Reserve 274-7Tsavo West National

Park 188-95 West Gate Community

Conservancy 277-8zoos, see also wildlife

reservesAnimal Orphanage 63Bio-Ken Snake Farm &

Laboratory 241Chimpanzee

Sanctuary 160Endangered Species

Enclosure 160Egerton Castle 106Kitale Nature

Conservancy 141Mamba Village

Crocodile Farm 230Mt Kenya Wildlife

Conservancy Animal Orphanage 156

Nairobi Safari Walk 62Snake Park 58

415

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book


Map Legend


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