642
AUTHOR THANKS
Marika McAdamThanks as always to my fellow authors for turning hard work and on-the-road adventures into so many great chapters. Thank you to my handsome husband Jo for supporting me in every journey I’ve embarked on since our worlds first collided in Bangladesh. And eternal thanks to ever-inspiring Mum and Dad McAdam for taking me travelling throughout childhood, and always having the good sense to pack a Lonely Planet.
Alexis AverbuckHail Alexandra Stamopoulou for her spot-on recommendations. Marina Flenga was a super-lative fairy godmother, connecting me to those in the know. Marilee Anargyrou Kyriazakou and Cali Doxiadis (in Kerkyra), Eleni Doxiadi (in Lefkada) and Manita Scocimara-Ponghis (in Kefallonia) shared their love and knowledge of their islands. In Athens, Lena Lambrinou decoded the Acropolis and Elina Lychoudi the nightlife. Anthy and Costas, as well as Marga-rita Kontzia and Kostas Karakatsanis, made it home.
James BainbridgeA heartfelt çok teşekkürler, once again, to everyone who helped me find my way around the steppe on my last visit to northeastern
Turkey. Celil in Kars and Necmettin in Akçaabat deserve special mention for your help on a few recent projects. Thanks, as ever, to everyone at Lonely Planet – Tom, Dora, Angela, James, Cliff et al – and to my wife Leigh-Robin.
Mark BakerI met many helpful people all along the way in researching three countries for this guide and their names would too numerous to mention here. I’ve lived in Prague for two decades now and a very special thanks to my good friends here; in Slovenia, the staff of the Slovenia Tourist Board deserve special mention.
Chris DelisoAs always a number of kind and helpful Mace-donians (and other folks too), provided good tips, advice and assistance in the course of my research. Among them I can mention Pece, Patrice, Stevche, Emilija, Biljana, Dane, Stojko. Ace and Julija – you know who you are! Of course, this book couldn’t have been completed without the work of my patient and devoted Lonely Planet colleagues, including Katie O’Connell, the map-making and produc-tion teams.
Peter DragicevichMany thanks to all the wonderful people who helped me in Montenegro, especially Ivica Erdelja, Hayley Wright and Jack Delf, Emma and Ben Heywood, Krstinja Petranović, Danica
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
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Behind the Scenes
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
BeHiN
D tHe SceN
eSĆeranić and Matthew Lane. Also, I owe a debt of gratitude to James and Lorraine Hedder-man, Tim Benzie and Kerri Tyler for their contributions before and after the journey.
Mark ElliottMany thanks to Wieland de Hoon, Hans Ros-sel, Guy Jacobs, Dani Systermans, Lesley Devos, Valerie de Kerpel, Sharon Taylor, Jan Beran, Mišo Marić and the helpful folks at Travellers Home and New Age hostels. As ever my greatest thanks go to my endlessly inspiring family for so much liberating love.
Tom MastersAn enormous debt of thanks to all my hard-working fellow authors on this book, and the teams in London and Melbourne who com-missioned, edited and oversaw the project. Special thanks in Albania to Ardi Pulaj, Cath-erine Bohne, Tedi Sina and Bledi Strakosha; and in Kosovo to Hekuran Avdyli and the folks at Libertas in Pristina.
Craig McLachlanA hearty thanks to all those who helped me out on the road, but most of all, to my ex-ceptionally beautiful wife, Yuriko, who let me know when I’d had my daily quota of Mythos and gyros pitta.
Anja MutićHvala mama, for your home cooking and contagious laughter. Obrigada, Hoji, for being
there before, during and after. A huge hvala to my friends in Croatia who gave me end-less recommendations – this book wouldn’t be the same without you. Special thanks go to Lidija in Zagreb and Mila in Split, as well as the team at HTZ. Finally, to the inspiring memory of my father who travels with me still.
Tamara ShewardTo research here is to make a zillion friends, so in addition to thanking the population of Serbia, I’d like to offer clinks of the rakija glass and mnogo hvala na… the NS Kiosk Crew, Gagi of Niš, Toma of Mokra Gora, Zoran for saving us from snakes and wolves, all the helpful oddballs we met during our medeni mesec/research jaunt, Dragana Eremić, the Ljesević family, the Lučić clan, Pappa and Mumma, and as ever, to Dušan, najbolje, najslađi čovek u svemiru!
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-44.
Cover photograph: Stari Most, Mostar, Bosnia and Hercegovina, Richard I’Anson/Getty Images.
THIS BOOK Many people have helped to create this 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s Southeastern Europe guidebook, which is part of Lonely Planet’s Europe series. Other titles in this series include Western Europe, Eastern Europe, Mediterra-nean Europe, Central Europe, Scandinavia and Europe on a Shoestring. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following:
Commissioning Editors Erin Corrigan, Jo Cooke, Lucy Monie Hall, James SmartCoordinating Editor Samantha ForgeCoordinating Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaCoordinating Layout Designer Lauren EganManaging Editors Annelies Mertens, Angela TinsonManaging Cartographers Adrian Persoglia, Anthony Phelan, Amanda SierpManaging Layout Designer Chris GirdlerAssisting Editors Briohny Hooper, Anne Mason
Assisting Cartographers Xavier Di ToroAssisting Layout Designer Frank DeimCover Research Kylie McLaughlinInternal Image Research Aude VauconsantLanguage Content Branislava VladisavljevicThanks to Elin Berglund, Laura Crawford, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Genesys India, Jouve India, Andi Jones, Darren O’Connell, Trent Paton, Dianne Schallmeiner, Kerrianne Southway, Gerard Walker, Amanda Williamson
000 Map.pages000 Photo.pages
644
Aaccommodation.610-12,.seealso.
individuallocationsAcropolis.(Athens).241activities.20,.22-4,.612-13,.see
alsoindividualactivitiesAdana.579adventure.sports.612Aegean.Coast.546-64, 547Aegina.270Agia.Roumeli.289,.290Agiasos.303Agios.Georgios.291Agios.Gordios.308Agios.Nikitas.308Agios.Nikolaos.291Ahmet.I.of.Turkey.527air.travel.19,.621-2,.623Alaçatı.554Alanya.577-8Albania.36-68,.38accommodation.36,.64-5activities.65arts.63-4budget.37business.hours.65climate.36costs.37drinking.64economy.60embassies.65environment.64exchange.rates.37food.36,.37,.64,.65highlights.38history.60-3internet.access.65internet.resources.37itineraries.37money.37,.65people.63planning.36-7
politics.60postal.services.65-6public.holidays.66telephone.services.66tourist.information.66travel.to/from.37,.66-7travel.within.67-8visas.66
Albanian.(language).630-1Albena.154Alcaeus.314Alexandroupolis.267Alonnisos.305Amasya.582AnEternityandOneDay.315Anamur.578Anatolia.580-3Anavatos.300Andrić,.Ivo.99Ankara.580-2Antakya.579-80Antalya.573-6,.574Antiparos.276,.275Apollonia.51Arbanasi.142archaeological.sites.&.ruinsAcropolis.(Athens).241Acropolis.of.Lindos.(Rhodes).294Agora.(Athens).242Akrotiri.(Santorini).281Amphitheatre.of.Durrës.50Ancient.Delphi.262Ancient.Mycenae.259Ancient.Olympia.262Asklipieion.(Kos).296Butrint.58Corinth.&.Acrocorinth.257Delos.274Ephesus.556Ireon.(Samos).299Kamiros.(Rhodes).294Knossos.(Crete).286Mediana.(Niš).476Melnik.128Nea.Moni.(Chios).300Parthenon.(Athens).241,.10Pergamum.(Bergama).551Phaestos.(Crete).286Roman.Thermae.(Varna).149Skarkos.(Ios).279Stari.Bar.378Stobi.359Temple.of.Aphaia.(Aegina).270Temple.of.Apollo.(Naxos).277Temple.of.Artemis.(Selçuk).555Temple.of.Athena.Nike.(Athens).241Temple.of.Olympian.Zeus..(Athens).242
Temple.of.Zeus.(Olympia).262Theatre.of.Dionysos.(Athens).241Žabljak.Crnojevića.382
area.codes.618Areopoli.261Argostoli.309Arkadia.259Aspendos.576Assos.549-50Atatürk,.Mustafa.Kemal.594Athani.308Athens.237-53,.238-9, 246, 10accommodation.244-7climate.235drinking.249entertainment.249-51festivals.&.events.244food.247-9history.240-1itineraries.241-324safety.251shopping.251sights.241-3,.244tourist.information.252tours.243travel.to/from.252travel.within.252-3
ATMs.616Aya.Sofya.(İstanbul).531,.2Ayvalık.550-1
BBachkovo.Monastery.136Baderishka.Polyana.129Badron.Gorge.259Balchik.153-4Banat.423-7Banja.Luka.101-3Bansko.129-30Bar.378-9Bârsana.431basics.18-19bathrooms.619Bay.of.Kotor.12,.370,.12beaches.20bears.409beerAlbania.64Bulgaria.114Croatia.228,.228-34Kosovo.335Macedonia.338,.363Romania.451Slovenia.520
Behramkale.549-50Belgrade.460-71,.462-3accommodation.465-6
645iN
DeX B-C
drinking.467-8entertainment.468-9food.466-7history.460information.470itineraries.460shopping.470sights.460-1,.464-5tours.465travel.to/from.470-1travel.within.471
Belogradchik.161-2Belogradchik.Rocks.162Berat.14,.51-4,.14Bergama.551-2Beyoğlu.534-5,.11bicycling,.see.cyclingBiertan.417BiH,.see.Bosnia.&.HercegovinaBihać.103-4biking,.see.cyclingbirdwatching.(Macedonia).359Bitola.355-6Bjelašnica.85Bjelila.373Black.Lake.387Black.Sea.17,.149-60Black.Sea.coast.439-47,.439Blagaj.94Bled.500-4,.502Blue.Mosque.(İstanbul).527boat.travel.19,.622,.624Bobotov.Kuk.387Bodrum.559-63,.560Bohinj.504-6Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.69-112,.71,.106accommodation.69,.109activities.109-10arts.108-9budget.70business.hours.110climate.69drinking.70environment.109exchange.rates.70food.69,.70,.110highlights.71history.105-8internet.access.110internet.resources.70itineraries.70language.109,.633money.70,.110people.108planning.69-70politics.105postal.services.110public.holidays.110
safety.110telephone.services.110travel.to/from.70,.111travel.within.111-12visas.111
Bosphorus.535Botiza.431Bouzianis,.George.315Bovec.507-8Boyana.125-6Bozburun.Peninsula.563brandyAlbania.37Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.70Bulgaria.165-6Croatia.228,.228-34Macedonia.338,.363Montenegro.368Romania.396,.451Serbia.458,.482Slovenia.486,.520
Braşov.412-16,.414Bucegi.Mountains.413Bucharest.397-408,.398-9,.402-3accommodation.404-5drinking.405-6entertainment.406food.405information.406-7shopping.406sights.397,.400-1travel.to/from.407-8travel.within.408
budgeting.18-19Budva.376-7Bulgaria.113-14,.113-70,.115accommodation.113,.166activities.166arts.163-4budget.114business.hours.166-7climate.113drinking.114,.165-6embassies.167environment.164-5exchange.rates.114food.113,.114,.165-6,.167highlights.115history.162-3internet.access.167internet.resources.114itineraries.114legal.matters.167money.114,.167-8people.163planning.113-14public.holidays.168safety.168
telephone.services.168travel.to/from.114,.168-9travel.within.169-70visas.168
Bulgarian.(language).631-2Burgas.156-8Bursa.544-6bus.travel.18,.622,.624-5business.hours.613,.seealso
individualcountriesButrint.58Butterfly.Valley.565,.566Byala.155
ccamping.610Çanakkale.548-9canoeing,.see.kayakingCape.Keri.311Cappadocia.583-9car.travel.19,.622,.625-6Carnival.(Croatia).22carpets.(Turkey).596castles,.fortresses.&.palacesBaba.Vida.Museum-Fortress.(Vidin).161
Bled.Castle.500Bran.Castle.416,.16Car.Samoil’s.Castle.(Ohrid).351Castle.of.Lëkurësit.(Saranda).56Castle.of.St.Peter.(Bodrum).559Cherven.Fortress.(Rusenski.Lom.Nature.Park).148
City.of.Residence.Citadel.(Suceava).435
Diocletian’s.Palace.(Split).204-7Doboj.103Fortica.(Hvar.Town).212Fortress.of.Justinian.(Tirana).40-1Gjirokastra.Castle.59Gradačac.103Kalasa.(Berat).52Kalemegdan.Citadel.(Belgrade).460Kaleto.Fortress.(Belogradchik).162Kanli-Kula.(Herceg.Novi).370Ljubljana.Castle.488Maribor.Castle.517Niš.Fortress.475Palace.of.Princess.Ljubica.461Palaio.Frourio.(Corfu).307Peleş.Castle.409Pelişor.Palace.409Petrovaradin.Citadel.472Petrović.Palace.(Podgorica).383Predjama.Castle.510Ptuj.Castle.518Râşnov.Fortress.416Rector’s.Palace.(Dubrovnik).219
000 Map.pages000 Photo.pages
646
iNDeX C
-D
castles,.fortresses.&.palaces.continuedRoman.Fortress.of.Sexaginta.Prista.(Ruse).146-7
Royal.Palace.(Sofia).116Rozafa.Fortress.(Shkodra).46-7Shumen.Fortress.144Smederevo.Fortress.469Španjola.Fortress.(Herceg.Novi).370Sponza.Palace.(Dubrovnik).219Srebrenik.103Stari.Grad.(Travnik).99Tešanj.103Topkapı.Palace.(İstanbul).530Trsat.Castle.(Rijeka).196Tsarevets.Fortress..(Veliko.Târnovo).139
Tvrdina.Kale.Fortress.(Skopje).341Vranduk.103
cathedrals,.see.churches.&.cathedrals
Ceauşescu,.Nicolea.424cell.phones.618Çeşme.Peninsula.554Cetinje.380-1Chagall,.Marc.302children,.travel.with.613Chios.299-301Christo.Javacheff.165churches.&.cathedralsAkdamar.Kilisesi.(Lake.Van).592Aya.Sofya.(İstanbul).531Berat.52Cathedral.of.Christ’s.Resurrection.(Podgorica).383
Cathedral.of.St.Domnius.(Split).205Cathedral.of.St.George.(Piran).513Cathedral.of.St.Lovro..(Trogir).211-12
Cathedral.of.the.Assumption.(Koper).511
Cathedral.of.the.Assumption..(Krk.Town).200
Cathedral.of.the.Assumption.of.the.Blessed.Virgin.Mary.(Zagreb).173
Cathedral.of.the.Assumption.of.the.Virgin.(Dubrovnik).219
Church.of.Sveti.Jovan.at.Kaneo.(Ohrid).351,.15
Church.of.the.Dormition.of.St.Mary.(Berat).52
Metropolitan.Cathedral..(Timişoara).424
Moldavian.Metropolitan.Cathedral.(Iaşi).432
Orthodox.Cathedral.of.Christ.Saviour.(Banja.Luka).102
Patriarchal.Cathedral..(Bucharest).400
St.Mark’s.Cathedral.(Korčula.Island).215
St.Tryphon’s.Cathedral.(Kotor).373Sveta.Nedelya.Cathedral.(Sofia).117Sveta.Sofija.Cathedral.(Ohrid).352
cinema,.seealso.film.festivalsAlbania.63Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.109Romania.450Slovenia.520Turkey.597
Çirali.571-2Cişmigiu.Garden.401climate.18,.22-4,.seealsoindividual
countriesclimate.change.622Cluj-Napoca.420-3,.422communismAlbania.62Bulgaria.163Romania.448
Constanţa.444-5Constantinople,.see.Istanbulconsulates,.see.embassies.&.
consulatesCorfu.305-8,.306Corfu.Town.306-7Corinth.256-7Coşkun,.Celal.596Cres.201Crete.283-91,.284-5Crişana.423-7Croatia.171-234,.229-30,.174-5accommodation.171,.229arts.226-7books.226budget.172business.hours.230climate.171drinking.172,.228-9economy.225embassies.230environment.227-8exchange.rates.172food.171,.172,.228-9,.230highlights.174history.225-6Homeland.War.225-6internet.resources.172itineraries.172money.172,.230-1people.226planning.171-2politics.224-5,.226public.holidays.231telephone.services.231tourist.information.231
travel.to/from.172,.232travel.within.232-4visas.231-2
Croatian.(language).633-4Cyclades.271-83cycling.19,.612,.623-4Bulgaria.166Croatia.189,.192,.195,.217,.229Greece.322Montenegro.383,.386Romania.409Slovenia.504,.506,.507
DDalmatia.201-24Danube.Delta.439-44,.440Datça.Peninsula.563Delos.274Delphi.262-3Demir.Kapija.Gorge.359Despotovac.469Devrent.Valley.587Dhërmi.55Diakofto.256Didyma.559Dihovo.356-7Dilofo.269Dimitsana.259disabilities,.travellers.with.619Albania.66Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.110Bulgaria.168Croatia.231Greece.320Macedonia.364Romania.454Turkey.604
discount.cards.613diving.612Croatia.189,.192,.195,.217,.220,.229Montenegro.379Turkey.558,.563,.600
Dobrota.372Dodecanese.291-8Dogtooth.315Dracula.412,.447-8Dragačevo.Trumpet.Assembly.(Guča).
15,.24,.476,.15driving,.see.car.traveldriving.licences.625Drvengrad.479Drymades.55Dubrovnik.13,.218-24,.220-1, 13accommodation.221-2activities.220-1drinking.223entertainment.223festivals.&.events.221
647iN
DeX D-I
food.222-3history.218information.223sights.218-20tours.221travel.to/from.223-4travel.within.224
Durrës.50-1duty-free.611
eEceabat.546-8Edirne.543-4Efes,.see.EphesusEl.Greco.315electricity.614Elies.262Elytis,.Odysseus.314embassies.&.consulates.614,.see
alsoindividualcountriesemergencies.611Emona.155employment.620Ephesus.556-8,.557Epidavros.259Eurail.628events,.see.festivals.&.eventsEXIT.Festival.(Novi.Sad).23,.472
Fferries.19,.622,.624festivals.&.events.22-4,seealsofilm.
festivalsAdventure.Race.(Herceg.Novi).370Art-Athina.(Athens).244Athens.Biennial.(Athens).244Dragačevo.Trumpet.Assembly.(Guča).15,.24,.476,.15
EXIT.Festival.(Novi.Sad).23,.472Hartera.(Rijeka).197Hellenic.Festival.(Athens).244Music.Biennale.Zagreb.180Ohrid.Summer.Festival.352Patras.Carnival.255ReMap.(Athens).244Sani.Jazz.Festival.(Kassandra).267
Fethiye.564-6Filoti.277film.see.cinemafilm.festivals.Sarajevo.Film.Festival.24,.78Tirana.International.Film.Festival.42
Fira.280firewater,.see.brandyfishing.359Fiskardo.309food.21,.614,.seealso.individual
locations
fortresses,.see.castles,.fortresses.&.palaces
Frikes.310FromRussiawithLove.531Fruška.Gora.475
GGadimë.Cave.329Galičnik.349galleries,.see.museums.&.galleriesGallipoli.Peninsula.546gay.&.lesbian.travellers.614-15Albania.65Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.110Bulgaria.167Croatia.184,.230Greece.301,.318Montenegro.392Romania.452Slovenia.521-2Turkey.601
Gefyra.260Gelibolu.546George.II.of.Greece.313Gerolimenas.261Gjirokastra.59-60Golden.Sands.154Göreme.585-7Grand.Bazaar.(İstanbul).530Greece.235-324,.237accommodation.235,.317-18budget.236climate.235culture.314-15drinking.236,.316-17embassies.&.consulates.318environment.315-16food.235,.236,.316-17highlights.237history.312-14itineraries.236money.236,.319opening.hours.318public.holidays.319resources.236telephones.319tourist.information.320travel.to/from.236,.320-1travel.with.322-4visas.320
Greek.(language).634-5Gythio.260-1
HHabsburgs,.the.518-19Hagia.Sophia.(İstanbul).531Halki.278
Halkidiki.267hamams.(Turkey).538Hania.287-8Hatay.579-80health.615Heraclea.Lyncestis.356Herăstrău.Park.404Herceg.Novi.370-2Hercegovina.85-96hiking.612Albania.48,.53,.65Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.110Bulgaria.126,.136,.141,.166Croatia.195,.230Greece.262,.269Montenegro.382,.383,.386,.388Romania.409Serbia.409,.479,.482Slovenia.500,.504,.506,.507Turkey.565,.585,.599
Himara.55-6Hippocrates.295hire.cars.625history,.seeindividualcountries,
WWI,.WWIIhitching.626holidays,.see.public.holidaysHomer.280,.312,.314,.549Hora.Sfakion.290horse.riding.(Turkey).585hostels.611hot-air.ballooning.(Turkey).584Humor.437Hvar.Island.212-15,.6Hydra.270-1
iIaşi.432-5,.434Ieud.431-2Igoumenitsa.269Ihlara.Valley.589Iliad.312,.549immigration.621insurance.616,.626internet.access.616internet.resources.19,.seealso
individualcountriesInterRail.629Ioannina.268-9Ionian.Islands.305-12Ios.279-80,.279Iraklio.284-6İstanbul.527-43,.530,.532-3, 536-7,
2, 11accommodation.536-9drinking.541-2entertainment.541-2food.539-41
000 Map.pages000 Photo.pages
648
iNDeX I-M
İstanbul.continuedhighlights.10history.527itineraries.527safety.543sights.527-35tourist.information.542tours.535-6travel.to/from.542travel.within.542,.542-3
Istria.188-96Ithaki.310itineraries.25-9,.seealso.individual
countriesİzmir.552-3
JJahorina.84-5Jajce.100-1Jal.56Julian.Alps.499-509
KKahta.590Kalavryta.256Kaleiçi,.see.AntalyaKalkan.567-8Kapadokya,.see.CappadociaKaradut.590Kardamyli.262Karpathos.294-5Kaş.568-70,.570-1Kassandra.Peninsula.267Kassiopi.307Kastraki.263Kavadarci.358-9kayaking.613Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.105Croatia.220-1,.230Montenegro.371,.382Turkey.600Slovenia.504,.507,.508
Kayseri.588-9Kazanlâk.137-9Kazantzakis,.Nikos.314Kefallonia.309-10Kemal,.Yaşar.596Kerkyra,.see.CorfuKioni.310Kiten.160,.17Kızkalesi.578-9Knights.of.St.John.293,.296Knossos.286
Kobarid.508-9Kolašin.386-7Koliba.85Konya.582-3Kopaonik.478Koper.511-12Koprivshtitsa.137Köprülü.Kanyon.576Korčula.Island.215,.14Kos.295-7Kosovo.325-36,.327accommodation.325,.335arts.334-5budget.326business.hours.335climate.325drinking.326embassies.335environment.335exchange.rates.326food.325,.326,.335highlights.327history.333-4internet.resources.326itineraries.326language.630media.334money.326,.335people.334planning.325-6postal.services.335public.holidays.335-6safety.336telephone.services.336travel.to/from.326,.336travel.within.336visas.336
Kotor.372-5,.374Kozjak.Stream.Waterfalls.508Kranjska.Gora.506-7Kravice.Waterfalls.95Krk.Island.200-1Kruja.49-50Krupa.na.Vrbasu.103Ksamil.58Kuşadası.558-9Kythira.311
LLaganas.Bay.311Lake.Bled.500-4,.502Lake.Bohinj.504-6Lake.Koman.49Lake.Matka.348Lake.Pamvotida.268Lake.Tikveš.359Lakones.308
Lakonian.Mani.261landmines.617-18Lasithi.Plateau.290-1Lastva.372Le.Corbusier.302Lefkada.308Lefkada.Town.308Leonidio.259lesbian.travellers,.see.gay.&.lesbian.
travellersLesvos.301-3Levski,.Vasil.163Limnionas.311Lindos.294Lipica.512literature.611Albania.63Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.108-9Croatia.226-7Greece.314-5Romania.449-50Serbia.481Slovenia.519Turkey.596-7
Litohoro.268Ljubljana.487-99,.490-1accommodation.493-4drinking.495-6entertainment.496-7festivals.&.events.493food.494-5history.487-8information.497-8itineraries.488sights.488-9,.493tours.493travel.to/from.498,.499travel.within.498-9
Lošinj.201Louha.311Lousios.Gorge.259Loutro.290Lukomir.85Lycian.Way.565,.599
MMacedonia.337-66,.339accommodation.337,.363activities.363arts.362budget.338business.hours.363climate.337drinking.338,.363economy.361embassies.363-4environment.362-3exchange.rates.338
649iN
DeX Mfood.337,.338,.363,.364highlights.339history.360-1internet.resources.338itineraries.338money.338,.364people.361-2planning.337-8politics.361postal.services.364public.holidays.364safety.364telephone.services.364tourist.information.364travel.to/from.338,.364-5travel.within.365-6visas.364
Macedonian.(language).635-7Madara.145Madara.National.Historical.and.
Archaeological.Reserve.145Malatya.590Malia.287Mamaia.445-6MammaMia.304Mani,.the.261-2Manolates.299maps.611Maramureş.427-32,.429Marathonisi.islet.260Mardin.591-2Maribor.517marketsČaršija.(Prilep).357Cheese.Market.(Peja).332Dolac.Market.(Zagreb).173Gjirokastra.Bazaar.59Grand.Bazaar.(İstanbul).530Kruja.Bazaar.50Monastiraki.Flea.Market..(Athens).251
Odos.1866.(Iraklio).285Stara.Čaršija.(Bitola).355Tirana.44Zagreb.185
Marmaris.563-4Martin.Brod.104Matisse,.Henri.302Matka.348Maydos.546-8measures.611Međed.387Mediterranean.Coast.(Turkey).564-80Međugorje.94-5Megalo.Papingo.269Mehmet.the.Conqueror.527,.530Melnik.127-9Menalon.Mountains.259
Messinian.Mani.261-2Mesta.300Metaxas.313Meteora.12,.263-4,.13meyhanes.540Mikro.Papingo.269Miletus.559Milišići.85Miro,.Joan.302Mithymna.302-3Mljet.Island.216-18mobile.phones.618Moisei.432Moldavia.432-9Moldoviţa.438Molyvos.302monasteries.21Bachkovo.Monastery.136Bârsana.Monastery.431Basarbovo.Rock.Monastery.148Cetinje.Monastery.381Dobrun.Monastery.97Dominican.Monastery..(Dubrovnik).219
Franciscan.Monastery..(Dubrovnik).218-19
Franciscan.Monastery..(Hvar.Town).212
Golia.Monastery.432Gračanica.Monastery.329Humor.Monastery.437Ivanovo.Rock.Monastery.148Manasija.Monastery.469Megalou.Meteorou.(Meteora).263Minorite.Monastery.513Moldoviţa.Monastery.438Monastery.of.St.John.the.New.(Suceava).435
Monastery.of.St.John.the.Theolo-gian.(Patmos).297
Monastery.of.Sveti.Nikola.359Morača.Monastery.386Novo.Hopovo.Monastery.475Ostrog.Monastery.385-6Patriachate.of.Peć.332Piva.Monastery.389Pološki.Monastery.359Rila.Monastery.127Savina.Monastery.370Sinan.Pasha.Mosque.(Prizren).333Snagov.Monastery.412Sopoćani.Monastery.477St.George.Monastery.477Studenica.Monastery.478Suceviţa.Monastery.438-9Sveta.Bogoroditsa.Monastery.142Sveti.Jovan.Bigorski..Monastery.348-9
Sveti.Naum.Monastery.354
Sveti.Nikolai.Monastery.142Sveti.Pantelejmon.Monastery.341Treskavec.Monastery.357-8Varlaam.(Meteora).263Visoki.Dečani.Monastery.332Voroneţ.Monastery.437-8Zrze.Monastery.358
Monemvasia.260money.18,.19,.613-14,.616-17,.seealso
individualcountriesMonodendri.269Montenegro.367-94,.369accommodation.367,.392budget.368business.hours.392climate.367drinking.368economy.389-90embassies.392exchange.rates.368food.367,.368,.391,.392highlights.369history.390-1internet.resources.368itineraries.368language.368,.630money.368,.392people.391planning.367-8politics.389-90public.holidays.393telephone.services.393travel.to/from.368,.393-4travel.within.394
Morača.Canyon.386mosquesAya.Sofya.(İstanbul).531Bajrakli.Mosque.(Belgrade).461Blue.Mosque.(İstanbul).527Carshi.Mosque.(Pristina).328Čaršija.Mosque.(Stolac).95Dzhumaya.Mosque.(Plovdiv).131Et’hem.Bey.Mosque.(Tirana).39-40Fethija.Mosque.(Bihać).104Gazi-Husrevbey.Mosque..(Sarajevo).73
Haji.Alibey.Mosque.(Travnik).99Isak.Mosque.(Bitola).355Jashar.Pasha.Mosque.(Pristina).328
Karađozbeg.Mosque.(Mostar).87Koski.Mehmed.Paša.Mosque.(Mostar).87
Many.Coloured.Mosque..(Travnik).99
Mosque.of.Süleyman.(Rhodes).293Muradi.Mosque.(Vlora).54Mustafa.Paša.Mosque.(Skopje).341Red.Mosque.(Berat).52
000 Map.pages000 Photo.pages
650
iNDeX M
-O
mosques.continuedRoznamedži.Ibrahimefendi.Mosque.(Mostar).87
Selimiye.Camii.(Edirne).544Süleymaniye.Mosque..(İstanbul).531
Sultan.Mehmet.Fatih.Mosque.(Pristina).328
Sultan.Murat.Mosque.(Skopje).341Tombul.Mosque.(Shumen).144Yahdar-Kadi.Mosque.(Bitola).355Yeni.Mosque.(Bitola).355
Mostar.17,.86-94, 88-9,.17accommodation.90-2drinking.92-3entertainment.93food.92history.86information.93-4shopping.93sights.86-7tours.87,.90travel.to/from.93,.94travel.within.94
motorcycle.travel.622,.625-6movies,.see.cinemaMt.Athos.267Mt.Erciyes.583Mt.Ida.286Mt.Kynthos.274Mt.Lovćen.372Mt.Nemrut.National.Park.590Mt.Olympus.267-8Mt.Psiloritis.286Mt.Tâmpa.413Mt.Triglav.16,.505,.16Mt.Vodno.341museums.&.galleriesAcropolis.Museum.(Athens).241Archaeological.Museum.(Pula).189Art.Pavilion.(Zagreb).179Batana.House.(Rovinj).192Beekeeping.Museum..(Radovljica).501
Benaki.Museum.(Athens).242Byzantine.&.Christian.Museum.(Athens).243
Central.Eco-Tourism.Museum.of.the.Danube.Delta.(Tulcea).441
City.Museum.(Zagreb).179Croatian.Museum.of.Naïve.Art.(Zagreb).178
Dražen.Petrović.Memorial.Museum.(Zagreb).180
Ethnographic.Museum.(Split).205
Galerija.Klovićevi.Dvori.(Zagreb).179Gallery.of.Fine.Arts.(Split).207Gallery.of.Modern.Art.(Zagreb).179-80
Göreme.Open-Air.Museum.585Grigore.Antipa.Natural.History.Museum.(Bucharest).401
Homeland.War.Museum..(Dubrovnik).219
İstanbul.Archaeology.Museums.531Marco.Polo.Museum.(Korčula.Island).215
Maritime.&.History.Museum.(Rijeka).197
Meštrović.Gallery.(Split).207Mevlâna.Museum.(Konya).582Museum.Mimara.(Zagreb).179Museum.of.Anatolian.Civilisations.(Ankara).580
Museum.of.Ancient.Glass..(Zadar).202
Museum.of.Beekeeping.&.Wine.Cellar.(Sremski.Karlovci).475
Museum.of.Broken.Relationships.(Zagreb).173
Museum.of.Contemporary.Art.(Zagreb).180
National.Archaeological.Museum.(Athens).242
Onufri.Museum.(Berat).52Strossmayer.Gallery.of.Old.Masters.(Zagreb).179
Svrzo.House.(Sarajevo).73Town.Museum.(Korčula.Island).215Town.Museum.(Split).205Town.Museum.(Trogir).212Tusculum.Museum.(Solin).205War.Photo.Limited.(Dubrovnik).218
musicAlbania.63Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.109Bulgaria.163-4Croatia.227Greece.315Macedonia.362Romania.450Serbia.481-2Slovenia.520Turkey.397
Mustafa.Kemal.Atatürk.594Mustafapaşa.588Mycenae.259Mykonos.271-5,.272,.21Mystras.260Mytikas.268Mytilini.301-2
NNafplio.257-9national.parks.&.reserves
Biogradska.Gora.National.Park.387Durmitor.National.Park.387-9Galičica.National.Park.354Lake.Skadar.National.Park.381-3Llogaraja.Pass.National.Park.54Lovćen.National.Park.380Mavrovo.National.Parks.348-9Mljet.National.Park.217Mt.Dajti.National.Park.46Mt.Nemrut.National.Park.590National.Marine.Park.of..Alonnisos.304
National.Marine.Park.of..Zakynthos.311
Pelister.National.Park.356-7Plitvice.Lakes.National.Park.188Sutjeska.National.Park.97Una.National.Park.104
Naxos.276-8,.277Nemrut.Dağı.590-608Nesebâr.155-6newspapers.611nightlife.21Niš.475-7Northeastern.Aegean.Islands.
298-303Novi.Pazar.477-8Novi.Sad.472-4Nydri.308
oOdyssey.310,.312Ohrid.14,.349-53,.350,.15Oia.281oil.wrestling.(Turkey).544Old.Towns.20Belgrade.461Bucharest.400-1Budva.376Dubrovnik.218-19Herceg.Novi.370Novi.Pazar.477Poreč.194Rovinj.192Sarajevo.72-3Trebinje.96Trogir.211Ulcinj.379Zadar.202
Ölüdeniz.566-7Olymbos.295Olympia.262Olympos.571-2Omalos.289Opatija.199-200opening.hours.see.business.hoursOradea.426-7Orebić.216
651iN
DeX O-S
Our-Lady-of-the-Rock.Island.372ouzo.316
Ppacking.tips.19Pakleni.Islands.213palaces,.see.castles,.fortresses.&.
palacesPaleohora.289Paleokastritsa.308Pamuk,.Orhan.596Pamukkale.558Papandreou,.George.313paragliding.376,.566Parikia.275Paros.275-6,.275Parthenis,.Konstantinos.315Parthenon.(Athens).241,.10Paşabağı.587passports.621Patara.567Patitiri.305Patmos.297-8Patra.255-6Paxi.308Peja.331-3Pelekas.Beach.308Pelion.Peninsula.263Peloponnese.255-62people,.seeindividualcountriesPerast.372Pergamum.551-2Perge.576Pericles.240,.312Petrovac.378Phaestos.286-7Philip.II.of.Macedon.241phonecards.619photography.617Picasso,.Pablo.302Pigadia.295Pindar.314Pindos.Mountains.268Piraeus.253-5,.254Piran.512-16,.514-15Piva.Canyon.389planning.18-19,.seealsoindividual
countriesbasics.18-19budgeting.18calendar.of.events.22-4countries.30-3highlights.10-17itineraries.25-9travel.seasons.22-4travel.themes.20-1
Plitvice.Lakes.104Plovdiv.130-5,.132
Počitelj.95Podgorica.383-5,.384-5Poreč.194-6Poros.270Portorož.516postal.services.617,.seealso
individualcountriesPostojna.509-10Prčanj.372Predjama.510Priene.559Prilep.357Primorsko.160Pristina.13,.328-31,.330,.13Prizren.333Pržno.377-8Psyhro.291Ptuj.517-18public.holidays.615,.seealso.
individualcountriespublic.transport.627Pula.188-91Punta.Corrente.Forest.Park.192Pyrgi.300Pythagorio.299
rRadovljica.501Rethymno.287Rhodes.292-4,.292Rijeka.196-9Rijeka.Crnojevića.382Rila.Monastery.126-7Risan.372road.rules.626rock.climbing.230,.505Romania.395-456,.397accommodation.395,.451-2arts.449budget.396business.hours.452climate.395customs.regulations.452drinking.396,.451embassies.452environment.450exchange.rates.396food.395,.396,.450-1,.452highlights.397history.447-9internet.resources.396itineraries.396money.396,.452-3people.449planning.395-6politics.447,.448-9postal.services.453public.holidays.453
telephone.services.453-4tourist.information.454travel.to/from.396,.454-5travel.within.455-6visas.454
Romanian.(language).637-8Rose.373Rovinj.191-4Rozavlea.431Rt.Kamenjak.189ruins,.see.archaeological.sites.&.ruinsRuse.145-8,.146Rusenski.Lom.Nature.Park.148-9
SSafranbolu.582safety.617-18sailing.613Samaria.Gorge.288-9Samaris,.Antonis.314Samos.298-9,.298Şanlıurfa.590,.591Santorini.280-3,.281Săpânţa.430Sappho.301,.314Sarajevo.72-84,.74,.76accommodation.78-9activities.72-7drinking.80-1entertainment.81-2festivals.&.events.78food.79-80history.72information.82itineraries.72shopping.82sights.72-7tours.77-8travel.to/from.82,.83travel.within.82
Saranda.56-8Šargan.8.railway.479Saronic.Gulf.Islands.269-71Saxon.Triangle.417Seferis,.George.314Selçuk.555-6senior.travellers.614Serbia.457-84,.459accommodation.457,.482activities.482arts.481-2budget.458business.hours.482-3climate.457drinking.458,.482embassies.483environment.482
000 Map.pages000 Photo.pages
652
iNDeX S
-T
Serbia.continuedexchange.rates.458food.457,.458,.482,.483highlights.459history.480-1internet.resources.458itineraries.458money.458,.483people.481planning.457-8politics.480,.481postal.services.483public.holidays.483safety.483telephone.services.483tourist.information.483travel.to/from.458,.484travel.within.484visas.484
Serbian.(language).633-4Sfântu.Gheorghe.443-4Sgombou.307Shipka.Pass.138Shkodra.46-8Shumen.144-5Sibiu.418-20Side.576-7Sighetu.Marmaţiei.428,.430Sighişoara.416-18Sinaia.409-12Sithonian.Peninsula.267Sitia.291Skala.Eresou.301,.303Skanderbeg.50Skiathos.303-4skiing.613Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.84,.85,.109Bulgaria.126,.129Macedonia.349Montenegro.386,.388Romania.409Serbia.479Slovenia.504,.506,.507Turkey.545,.600
Škocjan.Caves.510-11Skopelos.304-5Skopje.339-48,.342-3accommodation.341-3drinking.345entertainment.345-6festivals.&.events.341food.343-5information.347itineraries.340shopping.346-7
sights.340-1travel.to/from.346,.347travel.within.348
Slovene.(language).638-9Slovenia.485,.487accommodation.485,.520-1arts.519-20budget.486business.hours.521climate.485drinking.486,.520embassies.521environment.520exchange.rates.486festivals.&.events.521food.485,.486,.520,.521highlights.487history.518-19internet.access.522internet.resources.486itineraries.486money.486,.522people.519planning.485-6postal.services.522public.holidays.522telephone.services.522tourist.information.522-3travel.to/from.486,.523travel.within.523visas.523
Smederevo.469Smolyan.135-6Snagov.Lake.412Soča.Valley.507-9Sofia.116-25,.118-19accommodation.117,.120-1drinking.121-2entertainment.122food.121information.123shopping.123sights.116-17travel.to/from.123-4travel.within.125
Solin.205Sougia.290Southern.Bucovina.436-9,.437Sozopol.158-60Sparta.259-60Spetses.271Spinalonga.Island.291Split.204-11,.206-7accommodation.208-9activities.207-8drinking.209-10entertainment.209-10festivals.&.events.208
food.209history.204information.210sights.204-7travel.to/from.210-11travel.within.211
Sporades.303-5Sremski.Karlovci.475St.George’s.Island.372Stari.Most.(Mostar).86,.17Stemnitsa.259Stobi.359Stolac.95-6Stoliv.372Štrbački.Buk.104Subotica.474Suceava.435-6Suceviţa.438-9Süleyman.the.Magnificent.527Sulina.442-3surfing,.see.windsurfingSveti.Konstantin.154Sveti.Stefan.377-8Symi.295synagoguesDubrovnik.219Oradea.426-7Sighetu.Marmaţiei.428Subotica.474
tTaÿgetos.Mountains.260,.261telephone.services.618-19,.seealso
individualcountriestelevision.611Termessos.576Terraneo.Festival.24Thessaloniki.264-7,.265Theth.48Thira,.see.SantoriniTikveš.358-9time.619Timişoara.423-6tipping.616Tirana.39-46,.40accommodation.42-3drinking.43-4entertainment.44festivals.&.events.42food.43information.44-5shopping.44sights.39-42tours.42travel.to/from.45-6travel.within.45-6
Tivat.375-6toilets.619
653iN
DeX T-ZTopola.469tourist.information.619,.seealso
individualcountriestours.627Tragaea.277train.travel.18,.622,.627-9Transylvania.16,.408-23,.410-11travel.money.cards.617travel.seasons.18travel.to/from.Southeastern.Europe.
19,.621-2travel.within.Southeastern.Europe.
622-9travellers.cheques.616Travnik.99-100Trebinje.96-7trekking,.see.hikingTreska.Canyon.348Trogir.211-12Troy.549Trpejca.354Truva.549Tsarevo.160Tulcea.440-2Turkey.525-608,.528-9accommodation.525,.599activities.599-600budget.600business.hours.600climate.525culture.596-7customs.regulations.600drinking.526,.598embassies.600employment.605environment.597-8food.525,.526,.598,.601health.601highlights.528-9history.593-5internet.access.601itineraries.526money.526,.601-2population.595public.holidays.602resources.526safety.603telephones.603tourist.information.603travel.to/from.526,.605travel.within.607-8visas.604volunteering.604
Turkish.(language).639-41Tzermiado.291
UUçhisar.587Ulcinj.379-80
Umoljani.85Ürgüp.587-8
Vvacations,.see.public.holidaysVadu.Izei.431Valbonë.48Valea.Izei.430-2Vama.Veche.446-7Van.592-3Varna.149-53,.150-1Vasiliki.308Vasilikos.Peninsula.311Vataša.359Vathy.298-9,.310vegetarian.travellersAlbania.64Croatia.229Kosovo.335Montenegro.391Serbia.482
Veliko.Târnovo.139-44,.140Venizelos,.Prime.Minister..
Eleftherios.313Verudela.Peninsula.189Vidin.161Vikos.Gorge.269Vintgar.Gorge.500Virpazar.382visas.19,.619-20Viscri.417Višegrad.97-8Visoko.98-9Vitosha.Nature.Park.126Vlora.54-5Vojvodina.471-4Volosko.200Voroneţ.437-8Voulismeni.Lake.291Vourliotes.299Vozarci.359Vrbas.Canyons.103Vuno.56Vyros.Gorge.262
Wwalking,.see.hikingwaterskiing.(Bulgaria).155weather,.see.climatewebsites,.see.internet.resourcesweights.611Western.Union.617white.water.rafting.220-1,.230windsurfing.230,.308,.600wineAlbania.64Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.95
Bulgaria.114,.165-6Croatia.228Greece.257,.282,.316-17Kosovo.326Macedonia.338Montenegro.368Romania.451Slovenia.520
women.travellers.620Albania.66Montenegro.393Turkey.604
work.620WWI.546Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.106Bulgaria.163Romania.448Slovenia.519
WWIIBosnia.&.Hercegovina.106Bulgaria.163Romania.448Slovenia.519
yyachting.230Yugoslavia.225,.391
ZŽabljak.387Zadar.202-4Zagorohoria.269Zagreb.173,.176-88,.176-7accommodation.181-2drinking.183-4entertainment.184-5festivals.&.events.180-1food.182-3gay.&.lesbian.travellers.184history.173information.185-6itineraries.179shopping.185sights.173,.178-80tours.180travel.to/from.186,.187travel.within.186,.188
Zakros.287Zakynthos.310-12Zakynthos.Town.311Želenkovac.104Zelve.Valley.587Zemun.471Zlatibor.478-80Zlatni.Rt.192ZorbatheGreek.315
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