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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec-dotes. Berna Collier, Bernard Hayes, Blake Everson, Caspar Dama, Charlie Lynn, Diarne Kreltszheim, Fred Lazell, Haya Zommer, Joanna O’Shea, Lynne Cannell, Manuel Hetzel, Markus Eifried, Martijn Maandag, Rebecca Nava, Tim Bridgeman, Zoltan & Anna Szabo
AUTHOR THANKSLindsay BrownThanks to Jenny Wal at PNG Highlands Adven-tures and to Raphael (Siwi) Kogun for all his expertise and insights into PNG, and for stay-ing cool and saving the day near Mendi. Thanks also to Mawi Maine, Chris Kogun and Phillip Gonapa. Thomas Tayape in Tari, Pym and Eliz-abeth Mamindi in Mt Hagan, Jackson Pinia in Kokopo, Shaun and Shannon at Nusa Island Retreat and Tony Pukuntap in New Ireland. Thanks to fellow writers Anna Kaminski and Jean-Bernard Carillet, and to Jenny Fegent.
Jean-Bernard CarilletHeaps of thanks to the editorial and cartogra-phy teams at Lonely Planet for their great work. Coordinating author Lindsay Brown deserves a grand merci for his support, as does desti-nation editor Tasmin Waby for her guidance. In the Sols, a special mention goes to Kerrie,
Chris, Serah, Donaldson, Bob, Lisa and Pam, who went out of their way to help me. And finally, once again a gros bisou to Christine, who supported me.
Anna KaminskiI would like to thank Tasmin for entrusting me with research of the most fascinating country I’ve ever covered; my fellow scribes, Lindsay and JB; and everyone who’s helped me along the way. In particular, Nick and Jared – my Moresby angels; Paul Barker for his incompar-able knowledge of PNG; Chris and Susan for the Sepik trip; Modakula, Warren, Sharon, Cathy, Jim and Delsie in Alotau; Gum in Kiri-wina; Kayleigh at Nuli Sapi; Kipa and Gregory en route from Aitape to Wewak; my rescuer in Popondetta; Nicolas for sharing his knowledge and books; and Joe the driver in Moresby.
THIS BOOKThis 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s Papua New Guinea & Solomon Islands guide was researched and written by Lindsay Brown, Jean-Bernard Carillet and Anna Kaminski. Tim Flannery wrote the Environment chapter, which was updated this edition by Anna Kaminski. Peter Fitz-Simons wrote the Kokoda Story chapter, updated this edition by Lindsay Brown. The
previous edition was written by Regis St Louis, Jean-Bernard Carillet and Dean Starnes. This book was commissionied in London and produced in Melbourne by the following:Destination Editor Tasmin WabyCoordinating Editor Monique PerrinProduct Editor Susan Pat-ersonSenior Cartographer Diana Von Holdt
Book Designer Mazzy PrinsepAssisting Editor Pete Crut-tendenAssisting Cartographers Hunor Csutoros, Rachel ImesonCover Research Naomi ParkerThanks to Anita Banh, David Carroll, Laura Crawford, Grace Dobell, Andi Jones, Kate Mathews, Karyn Noble, Sarah Reid, Alison Ridgway, Ellie Simpson, Angela Tinson
itineraries 19, 23-6, 23, 24, 26, see also individual locations
JJais Aben 98Japanese invasion 215-16,
224-5Jebo 68Jim Taylor 215Jiwaka Province 113-18Jorgensen, Dan 142
KKaileuna Island 80Kambot 145Kamiali Wildlife
Management Area 89Kaminabit 143-4Kanganaman 142-3Kantobo 121Karkar Island 99-100Kavieng 14, 164-8, 165, 14
accommodation 166-7activities 164-6festivals & events 166food 167-8sights 164tourist information 168tours 166travel to/from 168travel within 168-9
kayaking, see canoeing & kayaking
Keating, Paul 225Kegsugl 113Kennedy, John F 204Kevasob 99Kieta 175Kimbe Bay 9, 161-3, 8, 9Kiriwina Island 78, 80-81Kofure 68Kohinggo Island 194Koki 47Kokoda 63-6Kokoda Track 12, 35-40,
RRabaul 13, 157-9, 158, 13Rabaul Nakaia 160Rabaul Queen 211, 242radio 235rafting 177, 180Ramu River 101rats 223Raun Raun Theatre 103,
106 reefs
Conflict Islands 77Maloway Cyclone
Reef 67Marion Reef 67Nuakata Island 73
refugees 211religion 205, 211, 227-8,
see also cultsRennell 199restaurants 233road rules 243Russell Islands 33
SSaeraghi 198safety 119-20, 236
banana boats 242government travel advice
236women travellers 206,
238Sal Island 173Salamaua 90Salamo 77Samarai Islands 74-6Sandaun Province 132-5Sandline Affair 173Sariba Island 76satelilite phones 237Savo 189scenery 18Sepik region 124-46, 126-7
accommodation 124arts & crafts 139, 143climate 124culture 124etiquette 128highlights 126-7, 126-7history 125packing list 134-5religion 139tourist information 131-2transport to/from the
Sepik 100travel seasons 124
Sepik River 11, 135-46, 140-1, 11
boat hire 137-8climate 136geography 136guides 137Lower Sepik 144-5 Middle Sepik 141-4tours 138-46Sepik River Festival 143travel on 136-9travel to/from 139Upper Sepik 140-1
Sereo, Pepetua 173Sewa Bay 77sexual customs & politics
79, 228shopping 236
language 246, 248Shortland Islands 199Simbai 101Simbo 200Simbu Province 110-13skeleton dancers 111skull caves 76Skull Island 194snakes 221-3snorkelling, see diving &
snorkellingSogeri Road 59-61Sohano Island 173Solomon Islands 176-208,
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Dublin, Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERSLindsay BrownMorobe & Madang Provinces, The Highlands, Island Provinces As a travel writer and photographer, Lindsay relished the opportunity to trek up Mt Wilhelm, spot birds of paradise on the slopes of Mt Hagen and photograph the spectacular dancers at the Goroka Show – surely one of the greatest shows on earth. Travel-ling to Madang and the island provinces provided the perfect opportunity for this ex–marine biologist to dust off the diving qualifications and get reacquainted
with the underwater world. Lindsay also wrote Welcome to PNG & Solomon Islands, Top 15 Experi-ences, Need to Know, If You Like, Month by Month, Itineraries, Kokoda Track, Regions at a Glance, PNG Today, History, Directory and Transport.
Jean-Bernard CarilletSolomon Islands Paris-based journalist and photographer Jean-Bernard is a die-hard island-lover and diving instructor. He has clocked up numerous trips to the South Pacific, including five assignments to the Solomon Islands. On this re-search gig, his favourite experiences included diving the WWII wrecks off Tulagi, spending a day in Saeraghi, exploring Marovo Lagoon on a dinghy and visiting Gwaunaru’u with a local chief. Jean-Bernard has contributed to many Lonely
Planet titles, in French and in English. He also writes for travel and dive magazines, and wrote the Diving chapter for this guide.
Anna KaminskiPort Moresby, Central, Oro & Milne Bay Provinces, The Sepik Anna has dreamed of Papua ever since her history teacher showed her class slides of the penis- gourd-wearing villagers when she was 12 years old, and had an extensive knowledge of PNG history and indigenous culture before she set foot there. PNG surpassed all her expectations. During this research trip, she did an expe-dition down the Sepik, met a magician who makes rain in the Trobriand Islands,
explored gritty Moresby and island-hopped in Milne Bay. Anna also wrote First Time in PNG and People of PNG. She tweets at @ACKaminski.
Contributing AuthorsTim Flannery is a naturalist, ecologist, environmental activist, author and Australian of the year in 2007. He has been director of the South Australian Museum, adjunct professor at Macquarie University and is currently a professorial fellow at Melbourne University and chair of the Climate Council.Peter FitzSimons is a journalist, former Australian rugby player and author of Kokoda.
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