TODAY’S QUOTE NEXT WEEK TRAVEL SUNDAY March 2, 2003 www.startribune.com/travel RWBGY ★★ G Exploring the Inca roots of Cuzco, Peru By Jim Buchta Star Tribune Staff Writer Y ears ago I bought an antique photo album, a leather- bound souvenir with an Eskimo painted on the cover. It was the photographic account of a Minneapolis woman who traveled to Alaska by steamship in 1936, from Seattle to a tiny town on Baranoff Island: Sitka. Big adventure for the times. Alaska wouldn’t become a state for more than 20 years. Every black-and-white photo had a caption. The story, told in photos, fascinated me. Who was this woman? Why Alaska? What was it about Sitka that drew her? And what was Sitka like today? When I opened the book, tiny flowers with translucent petals and faded leaves floated from between the pages. “Me and the pansies,” she had scrawled beneath one of the photos. Another showed the woman standing at a woodsy trail head between two totem poles. “Lovers Lane,” the caption said. I imagined the woman stopping along the trail to sniff, then examine the flowers, picking them in hopes of preserving something that wouldn’t last forever: a moment in a magical, faraway place. I followed her path to Sitka, and now I’ve stood on that trail, too, between the same tall totem poles. Maybe Sitka taught her something about herself and our world. It did for me. I’ve been to Sitka twice now, collecting my own scrapbook of memories and photos. Both times my partner, John, and I planned the journey around the Sitka Symposium, an annual weeklong gather- ing of writers, poets, thinkers and seekers who come to discuss the big questions of our times — questions of faith and reconciliation, and how to understand the scientific and the divine in nature. reathe. I was standing some 4,700 feet above sea level and could see the sea. It was maybe 20 miles away, at least a weeklong hike, across the rip- pling, snow-covered mountain- tops of Chugach National Forest. Or, more practically, about seven minutes in the helicopter that just dropped me here. I was straddling a rocky mountain ridge less than 4 feet across. I had to remind myself to breathe. Pilot Garth Eggl’s landing mountain goats we saw were struggling up this high. Stretching for nearly 300 miles behind me was the forest, a vista of fluffy white peaks sprinkled with black rocks and dark streaks descending to the depths. In front of me to the west, against a piercing blue sky, were more snow-blanketed peaks. In the distance, a break in the canyons made way for a fat waterway — in this case, the Turnagain Arm of the Cook In- let, the sole ocean route from the Pacific to Anchorage’s ports. I was surrounded by beauty and silence. I was literally and figuratively as close to the top of the world as I had ever been. Last spring, on a clear, pic- ture-perfect Alaska day, I came to the western range of the Chugach Forest, south of An- chorage, to fly with the Chu- gach Powder Guides and snow- board down 19,500 vertical feet of glacier snow. It was the single most ex- hilarating day of my life. The forest stands on the Ke- nai Peninsula, stretching south of Anchorage along the Cook Inlet across to the Gulf of Alaska and Prince William Sound. At nearly 6 million acres, the forest offers hun- dreds of square miles of back- country skiing. Two years ago, National Ge- ographic Adventure magazine ranked helicopter-skiing in Chugach as the 21st greatest adventure in the world. It sounded like the ultimate snowboarder challenge: off- the-chart runs fraught with endless avalanche dangers, heart-stopping vertical drops and jumping from hovering birds. The number of Web sites dedicated to cruise ships is multiplying. Here are the pros and cons of booking a cruise online. G4 INSIDE PASSAGE Sometimes it takes patience to catch a glimpse of the continent’s biggest mountain. G5 DENALI COZY WISCONSIN RETREAT G6 • SPRING BALL IN ARIZONA G4 • CELEBRATING HARLEY’S 100TH G2 Alaska Division of Tourism Denali often hides in the clouds; this day it was exposed in its full glory. B SKI continues on G3 —Avalanche among the risks —Options for first-timers,G2 SITKA continues on G7 — Six miles in a kayak — what could go wrong? — Upcoming Sitka Symposiums, G8 Kayaking the Inside Passage near sunset on one of Alaska’s endless summer days. Robin Hood/Special to the Star Tribune Beloved souvenir opens path to Sitka, past and present A breath-taking adventure on Alaskan slopes
Transcript
TODAY’S QUOTE NEXT WEEK
TRAVEL SUNDAYMarch 2, 2003
www.startribune.com/travel
R W B G Y
★★
G“One thing I noticed quickly was
that Alaska was almost an obses-
sion to many of the people living
there. It was not simply a place in
which they happened to reside.” —
author Joe McGinnis
Exploring the Inca
roots of
Cuzco, Peru
By Jim BuchtaStar Tribune Staff Writer
Y ears ago I bought an antique photo album, a leather-bound souvenir with an Eskimo painted on the cover.It was the photographic account of a Minneapolis
woman who traveled to Alaska by steamship in 1936, fromSeattle to a tiny town on Baranoff Island: Sitka.
Big adventure for the times. Alaska wouldn’t become astate for more than 20 years.
Every black-and-white photo had a caption. The story, toldin photos, fascinated me. Who was this woman? Why Alaska?What was it about Sitka that drew her?
And what was Sitka like today? When I opened the book, tiny flowers with translucent
petals and faded leaves floated from between the pages.“Me and the pansies,” she had scrawled beneath one of the
photos.Another showed the woman standing at a woodsy trail
head between two totem poles.“Lovers Lane,” the caption said.I imagined the woman stopping along the trail to sniff,
then examine the flowers, picking them in hopes ofpreserving something that wouldn’t last forever: a momentin a magical, faraway place.
I followed her path to Sitka, and now I’ve stood on thattrail, too, between the same tall totem poles. Maybe Sitkataught her something about herself and our world. It didfor me.
I’ve been to Sitka twice now, collecting my ownscrapbook of memories and photos. Both times mypartner, John, and I planned the journey aroundthe Sitka Symposium, an annual weeklong gather-ing of writers, poets, thinkers and seekers whocome to discuss the big questions of our times —questions of faith and reconciliation, and howto understand the scientific and the divine innature.
By Troy MelhusStar Tribune Staff Writer
reathe.I was standing some
4,700 feet above sea leveland could see the sea. It wasmaybe 20 miles away, at least aweeklong hike, across the rip-pling, snow-covered mountain-tops of Chugach National Forest.
Or, more practically, aboutseven minutes in the helicopterthat just dropped me here.
I was straddling a rockymountain ridge less than 4 feetacross.
I had to remind myself tobreathe.
Pilot Garth Eggl’s landing
zone was maybe the size of aVolkswagen, and even themountain goats we saw werestruggling up this high.
Stretching for nearly 300miles behind me was the forest,a vista of fluffy white peakssprinkled with black rocks anddark streaks descending to thedepths.
In front of me to the west,against a piercing blue sky,were more snow-blanketedpeaks. In the distance, a breakin the canyons made way for afat waterway — in this case, theTurnagain Arm of the Cook In-let, the sole ocean route fromthe Pacific to Anchorage’sports.
I was surrounded by beautyand silence. I was literally andfiguratively as close to the top of the world as I had everbeen.
Last spring, on a clear, pic-ture-perfect Alaska day, I cameto the western range of theChugach Forest, south of An-chorage, to fly with the Chu-gach Powder Guides and snow-board down 19,500 vertical feetof glacier snow.
It was the single most ex-hilarating day of my life.
The forest stands on the Ke-nai Peninsula, stretching southof Anchorage along the CookInlet across to the Gulf ofAlaska and Prince William
Sound. At nearly 6 millionacres, the forest offers hun-dreds of square miles of back-country skiing.
Two years ago, National Ge-ographic Adventure magazineranked helicopter-skiing inChugach as the 21st greatestadventure in the world. Itsounded like the ultimatesnowboarder challenge: off-the-chart runs fraught withendless avalanche dangers,heart-stopping vertical dropsand jumping from hoveringbirds.
The number of Web sites dedicated to
cruise ships is multiplying. Here are
the pros and cons of booking
a cruise online. G4
INSIDE PASSAGE
Sometimes it takes patience to catch
a glimpse of the continent’s
biggest mountain. G5
DENALI
COZY WISCONSIN RETREAT G6 • SPRING BALL IN ARIZONA G4 • CELEBRATING HARLEY’S 100TH G2
Alaska Division of TourismDenali often hides in the clouds; this dayit was exposed in its full glory.
B
SKI continues on G3—Avalanche among the risks—Options for first-timers,G2
SITKA continues on G7— Six miles in a kayak — what could go wrong?— Upcoming Sitka Symposiums, G8
Kayaking the Inside Passage near sunseton one of Alaska’s endless summer days.
Robin Hood/Special to the Star Tribune
Beloved souveniropens path to Sitka,past and present
A breath-taking adventure on Alaskan slopes
[CMYK] Mac 3000, Sharon Emery, x4501; ??/??/??
[CMYK] Mac 3000, Sharon Emery, x4501; ??/??/??
SUNDAY, MARCH 2 • 2003 STAR TRIBUNE • G3★
That’s not quite the reality.“The reality is a lot of people
tend to sell themselves shortand tend not to go helicopter-skiing when they will do justfine,” said Chugach PowderGuide Mike Davidson, myguide for the day. “The realityof most helicopter skiing is re-ally nice, cruiser runs.”
Not that heli-skiing is 100percent safe, of course. In Jan-uary, for example, four-timeworld-champion snowboarderCraig Kelly was among sevenkilled in an avalanche whileheli-skiing in the CanadianRockies.
While the Chugach guideswarned of such risks, they alsocalculated them in ways that Inever felt afraid.
One skier at a timeMy day began early, with
nearly an hour’s worth of class-room instruction followed byanother hour’s worth outside.Instructors talked weather pat-terns, how to “swim” out ofmoving snow and how to lo-cate and use the avalanchebeacons with which we were allequipped.
While there was always achance for avalanche, we weretold, our guides would steerclear of unreasonable risk.
We would fly in groups nolarger than five. The helicop-ters would always land — ourgear was kept in baskets out-side the door. One guide wouldlead four skiers and the guideswould always ski out first. Justone skier would follow at atime.
While the runs were long —each taking between 20 to 40minutes to descend — we’d al-ways take short breaksthroughout. We’d meet alongthe sides of the slopes, where
Davidson would give addition-al instructions each time.
And at the bottom of eachrun we would wait for the heli-copter, which would ferry us toour next run.
In flightI have flown in a helicopter
many times, but the takeofffrom the tiny Girdwood Airportranks among the most breath-taking flights of them all.
We had already been toldhow to huddle as the chopperlanded in front of us: Down onone knee, our faces coveredwith one arm to protect usfrom the blowing snow and ourother arm holding down thegear.
We loaded our equipmentand climbed aboard. Slowlythe helicopter hovered andturned. Eggl gave us a look,tipped the nose down and weshot down the runway like ataxiing plane as the helicopterlifted off. It felt as if our feetwould skim the glades below.
My first run, “High Five,” isstill a blur. It was a 20-minute,
gradual descent, a bowl runthrough waist-deep, un-touched powder, which Icarved with wide, fluid turns.
It was an easy run, but stillleft my heart in my throat. Itwas, after all, my first time.
“It’s just so much to take inall at once,” Scott Van Tim-meren later assured me. VanTimmeren, a member of mygroup, was a young heli-skiveteran from Michigan.“You’re looking at all the scen-ery, you’re looking at the runs,you’re worried about listeningto the guide and you’re worriedabout your skiing. It’s just in-formation overload.”
We skied nearly 20,000 ver-tical feet like that all day long. Itraversed canyons, hikedmountain saddles and floatedacross the fine powder of theChugach’s untouched, isolatedglades.
Recounting it now, I stillhave to remind myself the ob-vious:
Troy Melhus/Star TribuneThe Alyeska Resort in Girdwood, Alaska. Before boarding the heli-copter, back-country skiers learned how to huddle down.
[CMYK] Mac 3000, Sharon Emery, x4501; ??/??/??
[CMYK] Mac 3000, Sharon Emery, x4501; ??/??/??
0302.SU.TRAV.SME.003.A Thu Feb 27 18:33:29 2003
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Airfares are round trip air from Minneapolis/St. Paul’s Humphrey Terminal. All prices are per person based on double occupancy, are not retroactive, and are subject to change without notice, maynot be applicable on all departures and least expensive class of service. Cancun, Cozumel, Puerto Vallarta and Mazatlan round trip fares valid for PM departures and returns only where applicable.Domestic prices include a round-trip fuel surcharge of $20 per person. International prices include a round-trip fuel surcharge of $40 per person. International taxes and fees of up to $89.29 forMexico departures, up to $100.60 for Caribbean departures, passenger facility charges of up to $4.50 each way for domestic departures, Hawaii taxes and fees up to $13.30, segment fees of$3 per segment, per person for domestic departures and September 11th Security Fee up to $10 per person are not included and are due with final payment. Various cancellation penalties,payment requirements and holiday/special event/weekend charges may apply. The Pre-Travel Penalty Waiver is not included in the advertised price. Please refer to the Operator/Participant
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By Troy MelhusStar Tribune Staff Writer
Skiing in Alaska can be like adream — a small, expensiveone, that is.
While there are several smallski areas throughout the state,Alaska has but one full-scale,traditional ski area at AlyeskaResort in Girdwood, about 45minutes south of Anchorage bycar (the Web address ishttp://www.alyeskare-sort.com.).
It’s large — 68 runs — buteven so, I’d hit every trail by mythird day there. If you want a fullAlaska skiing experience, you’llwant to consider back country.
While many heli-skiing op-erations are based in Valdez andshare a remote section ofChugach National Forest there,the Chugach Powder Guides arethe closest heli-skiing business
to Anchorage and the only oneaffiliated with Alyeska.
Their location alone madeChugach Powder Guides themost attractive option to a first-time back-country snow-boarder like me.
Prices run between $650 for aone-day trip to $4,475 for aweeklong package includinghotel. Reservations and depositsare required. (Go to the Web athttp://www.chugachpow-derguides.com).
I didn’t have reservationsand opted to fly standby withChugach for a slightly lowerprice.
As a standby customer, Icould only fill an empty seat,most likely the result of anothercustomer’s last-minute can-cellation. As standby, I also hadto be at the resort early eachmorning with no guaranteesthat I would go.
For a single day, Chugachguarantees up to 20,000 verticalfeet of skiing, or about five to sixlong runs. For example, we typi-cally lifted off from a base eleva-tion of 1,000 feet above sea leveland flew to an elevation of about5,000 feet, for a 4,000-vertical-foot run. When skiers reachtheir vertical limits, they canpurchase additional skiing timeby the vertical foot.
Chugach Powder Guides also
offer a snowcat backup optionfor clients, guaranteeing someback-country skiing in case heli-copters can’t fly on a particularday.
Where to stayLuckily — or perhaps not — I
had relatives in Anchorage,which meant that my morningsand nights were largely spentcommuting to Alyeska, about anhour each way.
Most of the heli-skiing pas-sengers I rode with stayed aspart of a package deal at the Al-yeska Prince Hotel, an opulent,first-class hotel with more than300 rooms at the base of the skiresort.
Other heli-ski companies,such as the Valdez Heli-skiGuides, also offer package ac-commodations closer to theirbase locations. Valdez Heli-skiGuides are on the Web athttp://www.valdezheliskiguides.com/
G2 • STAR TRIBUNE SUNDAY, MARCH 2 • 2003★
Skiing in Alaska? Consider back country
250 miles
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IF YOU GO
Milwaukee to host Harley birthday bashAssociated Press
MILWAUKEE — Harley-Da-vidson Inc. will celebrate its100th anniversary with eventsalong Lake Michigan’s shore-line, including exhibits spon-sored at the Milwaukee Art Mu-seum.
Harley originally planned tostage its centennial events atthree sites in Milwaukee andOshkosh. Now the motorcyclecompany has decided to keepall its ticketed events close to-gether along Lake Michigan,said Joanne Bischmann, Har-ley’s vice president of market-ing. The events will start Aug. 28and end in a birthday finale Aug. 31.
The Labor Day celebration isexpected to attract thousands ofmotorcyclists converging onWisconsin after driving fourroutes from different parts ofthe country.
The celebration’s first threedays will have ticketed events atthe art museum and festivalgrounds along the lake.
Harley will charge $50, plus a$5 tax and handling fee, for tick-ets, which will provide un-limited three-day access to thefestival grounds, displays and aone-time admission to the artmuseum. Tickets go on saleMonday.
Harley, which expects to sell150,000 tickets, will decide laterwhether to sell individual ticketsto events, Bischmann said.
The festival grounds will fea-ture Harley-Davidson exhibits,stunt and drill teams and 10stages of live entertainment.The art museum will have ex-hibits on design, product stylingand development. The celebra-tion also will include a parade ofmotorcyclists Aug. 30.
Harley also has planned afree party with live entertain-ment for its Aug. 31 finale at Mil-waukee’s Veterans Park alongLake Michigan.
More information: Harley-Davidson Inc.:http://www.harley-davidson.com
TRAVEL NOTES
This chart shows the worth ofthe U.S. dollar compared withother world currencies as ofWednesday last week. The infor-mation comes from Oanda(http://www.onanda.com), anonline service that updates ratesdaily.
These are not the rates youwill get when you exchange yourmoney. Banks, currency ex-changes and credit card compa-nies charge service fees, com-missions or factor a profit intothe rate they offer. What mattersis the amount you net per dollar.The fastest, easiest and usuallycheapest way to change moneyis by using an ATM to withdraw
funds from your own account atyour destination.
The main sources of foreigncurrency in the Twin Cities areTravelex America Inc. at TwinCities International Airport,612-726-5187; American Ex-press, 612-343-5500; USBank,612-872-2657; and Wells Fargo,612-667-9378 (both banks havehigh fees for non-members).Traveler’s checks are availablefrom banks and other sources,but the chief one for foreign-currency checks is AAA Travel(main office, St. Louis Park, 952-927-2525, plus other locations;no fee for AAA members).
$1 U.S. =Australia 1.65 Aus. dols. Canada 1.49 Can. dols. E.U.* 0.93 eurosGreat Britain 0.64 poundsIndia 47.84 rupeeJapan 117.29 yen Mexico 11.06 pesos New Zealand 1.77 N.Z. dols. Norway 7.08 Kroner Russia 31.64 ruble Sweden 8.47 kronor Switzerland 1.37 francs
* European Union countries using the euro currency are Austria, Belgium,Finland, France, Germany, Greece,Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, the Neth-erlands, Portugal, Spain.
CURRENCY ADVICE
[CMYK] Mac 3000, Sharon Emery, x4501; ??/??/??
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*All-Inclusive includes all meals, beverages & more. Airfares are round trip air from Minneapolis/St. Paul’s Humphrey Terminal. All prices are per person based on double occupancy, are not retroactive, & are subject to change without notice, may not be applicable on all departures & least expensive class of service. Domestic prices include a round-trip fuel surcharge of $20 per person. International prices include a round-trip fuel surcharge of $40 per person. International taxes & fees of up to $89.29 for Mexico departures, up to $100.60 for Caribbean departures, passenger facility charges of up to $4.50 each way for domestic departures, segment fees of $3 per segment, per person for domestic departures & September 11th Security Fee up to $10 per person are not included & are due with final payment. Various cancellation penalties, payment requirements & holiday/special event/weekend charges may apply. Charter air service provided by TransMeridian Airlines, Ryan International Airlines & American Trans Air. All airfares are capacity controlled & subject to limited availability.
Fares based on per person, double occupancy, cruise only. Government fees & taxes up to $48.19 are additional. Transfers are also additional. Other restrictions apply. Ship registry; British, Bermuda & Gibraltar.
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