Bernhard Roetzel
Gentleman A Timeless Fashion
Art Direction Peter Feierabend
Photography Giinter Beer
: .j , I
KONEMANN
Foreword of an Englishman
The Gentleman's Visiting Card
The Beard
Shaving at I-Tome 14[15
At the Barber's 16 A Good Wct Shave 17
The Illee!ric Shaver IS[1 9
Different Men, Different Beards 20
Caring for Beards and Mustaches 2 1 Timeless Pragranees 22 [23
The Perfumer's ABC 24 [25
The Hair
10 III
12 113
26 127
The ,Joys of Visiting the Hairdresser 2S [29
What Should T Put on My Hair" 30 [31
The Right Way to Wash Hair 32 [33
Hairstyles wi th Character 34 [35 The Toupee: ror and Against 36
The Fake Hair of the Stars 37 Chest Hair 37 The Royal Hairbrush 38 The Manicure 39
Underwear 40 141
The Most Important Question of All 42[ 43
Variations Underneath 44 [45 A Fly-Away Sueeess 46[47
The Shirt
A Gentleman's Shirt GO Gooel Shirts at a Glance G I Collar Shapes 52 [5:3 Cotton 54 [55 The Stuff that, Shirts are Made of 56 [ 57 Folding Your Shirt 57 .Jermyn Street 58159 The Best Ilnglish Shirtmakers 60 [6 1
48 149
How a Custom-Made Shirt is Created 62 [ Ii') Checks for the Weekend 64
The Brooks Brothers Shirt 65 The Right Shirt - the Right m 66 [67 Washing and Ironing ~ the Fundamentals of Shirt Care 6S[ 69
The Necktie 70 171
From Neckcloth to Ornamental Neckwear 72 Stars of the Stripes 73 A Good Necktie 74 Woolen Neckties 75 The Best of the Best 76 A Great Success from the Grande Nation 77 The Origins of Silk 78 Making a Necktie 79 The Master of the Custom-Made Neckt ie 80 The Business Necktie SI The Four-in-Hand 82 How to Tie a N"cktie 83 The Windsor Knot 83
The Bow Tic 84 [ 85
Tying a Bow Tie 86 The Cravat 87
The Suit
Style in the Suit 90 191 Button Undone 91
88 189
The Mecca of the Custom-made Suit H2-95
The English Suit 96 Patterns and Fabrics 97 A Suit from Gieves and Hawkes ~J8- 1 01
Chester Barrie 1021103 Three Savile Row Customers 104
The King of Style 105
The Right Kind of 1\,'eed Suit JOG 1107
The Italian Suit 108 Who's Who in Italy 109
Brioni - veni, viLli , vici 110 1111 Classics of Fashion 112 The Hall of Fame ll:3
The Swnmer Suit 114 111 5
Brooks Brothers - New York Classics ll 5 1]]7
Smart Casual
The Sports Jacket 1201 12 1
Needle and Thread 1221 123 Tweed Plus 1241125
1\vo 1\veed Jackets 126 I 127
Today's Sports Jacket 128 An Eye for Detail 1281 129
Fabrics for Trousers to Go with the Sports ,Jacket 130 11;) I The Gray Eminence 132 113:1 Khaki Cout.ure 134
Shorts 135
The Right Sort of.Jcans 1361137 The Cut 138 1139
How Trousers Got their Cuffs 139
118 1119
The Waist Area 140
The Trousers in Detail 140 1141
Other Countries, Other Trousers 141 All about Suspenders 142 1143
The Right Belt 1441145 The Blazer - a Living Legend 14[) 1147
Blazer and Trousers 1481149
Shoes
Good shoes } 52- J 55 .John Lobb 1561 157
Formal shoes with closed lacing 15H 1159 Formal shoes with open lacing 160 1161
Loafers 162 116:3 Moccasins Italian Style 164 1165 Monkstraps - the Shoes with Buckles 166
The Other Word fo], Weatherproof 167
150 1151
Leather Does not always Mean Leather 1681 [(ig The Center of the Shoe World 170 1171 The Shoemak"r's Tools 172 117:3 How a Shoe Takes Shape 174-177
The Other Word for Cordovan 17H 1179 Suede Shoes 180 1181
American Classics - Saddle Shoes 182 Slippers 183
Shoes ,,,ieh Knobs on 1841 185 Raincoats for Shoes 185 Socks - Getting the ComiJillatjoll Right IHt; 1187 Shoes and the Rest 188 1189
'.
Overcoats & Jackets
Overcoat Culture 1921 193 EssentialOvercoats 194-197 For the Officer in the Gentleman 198 The Duffel Coat 199 The Barbour Phenomenon 200 The Story of the Waxed .lacket 201 The Harbour in Detail 202 1203 The Top Six 203 Short is All Right 204 1205
190 1191
The Hat 206 1207
The Hat Past and Present 2081209 The Bowler 210 1211 Courage to Wear Hats 21212 13 Who Wears Hats? 2141215 The Panama 2161217
Accessories
Those little differences 220 1221 The Everyday Ballast 222 1223 One has it - but where? 224 1225 What does it tell us? 226 1227
218 1219
The best watches in the world 228 1229 All About the Watch 230 1231 Less is More 232 1233 Preface to Tobacco 234 1235 The Cigarette 2361237 The Pipe 2381239 Classic Pipe Squad 240 1 241 The Manufacture 241 The Cigar 242 1243 The Sizes 244 1 245 The Bar in the Pocket 246 1247 The Cuff Link 248 1249 Our Daily Companion 250 1251 The Original 252 1253 Traveling in Style 254 1255 For the Short Trip 256 1257 The Knack with the Jacket 258 The Right Way to Pack a Sui lease 259 The Walking Cane 260 The Lap Robe 261 No Fear of Rain 262 1263 The Other Word in Umbrellas 264 1265
Glasses 2661267 Not only when the Sun Shines 268 1269 The Handkerchief 270 1271 From Hand to Breast Pocket 272 1 273 The Right Combination 274 1275 The Glove 276 1277 Scarf Refinement 2781279
Knitwear 2801281
In the Beginning Was the Sweater 282 I 283 From Sheep to Wool 284 I 285 Classic Knitwear 286 I 287 Between England and France 288 The Guernsey in Detail 289 From Fine to Chunky Knit 290 1291 Correct Coordination 292 1293 For Cold Winter Days 294 1295 The Other Craze 296 I 297
Sporting Life
Why Sport? 3001301 Hunting, Riding, Fishing ... 302 1303 Shooting - the Outfit 3041305 The Real Thing 306 1307 The pocketknife 307 Riding - the Outfit 308 1309 Spectating in Style 310 1311 Fishing - the Outfit 3121313 Hole in One 3141315 The Crocodile 316 1317 The Other Polo Shirt 317 Water Sports - the Outfi t 3181319
298 1299
Formal Dress 320 1321
White or black? 322 1323 The Tuxedo - and What Goes With It 324 1325 Black & White 325 White Tie 326 1327 A Jacket for Smoking 328 Available to Rent .. 328 The Right Shoes 329 Morning Dress 330 1331
Home Comfort
A Hint of Decadence 334 1335 Breakfast with Style 336 1337
332 1333
A Souvenir from the Colonies 338 I 339 Home ComfOlt 340 1341
Appendix
Looking after your Wardrobe 344-347 The Suit 344 The Necktie 346 Shoes 346 I 347 Shoe Repair 347
Glossary 348-352 Bibliography - a Selection 353 Acknowledgments 353 Index 354-357 Picture Credits 360
342 1343
Index beefroU loa fer 162,348 Burton, Richard 113 Cleverly, Gcor"gc ( rU"m) 165
BeIcher, Jnmes 72 Bush, Cieorgc 80 c10lhes brush :144 , 345
belt 96, 144·145, :J49 button-down shilt 64, 65, 249, clothes hanger 344, :345
Belvest (firm) 109 297 club jacket 146
Pages with detailed ell tries Oil Bernberg rayon/silk 129,348 buttonhole 96 club necktie 72 , 73, 348
subject are in bold. BcnetLon, Luciano 267 buttons 51, 96, 12;3, 129, 149 coat 192-199, 304
A Bengal str ipes 348
C coat maker 92, 100,348
Bennett, Tony 37, 1I3 Cochet, Henri 316
Aaltsz, Tany 19 beret2 13 Cagney, James 213 Coggin, John 95
a<:cessories 220·279 Bcrl uti ( firm) IG7 Calcani, Armando 110 Coke, William 2 11
Ackcrmann, Myron 102, 109 Bernha rd, Prin ce of the camelhair cloth 189 Colacello, Bob 137
Acqua di Parroa 22 Netherlands 18 canvas 101, 129, 348 collar. see shirt collar
'action-man' sweater 2% bill clip 225 Caraceni (firm) 109 college scarf 279
Adcnauer, Konrad 138,22;3 bill pocket 225 Carac:eni, Domenico 109 Collischon, David 252
adjustable waistband 140. 143, Billings & Edmonds (firm) 104 Cardoso, Lopez 18 Collisc:holl, Lesley 252
352 blazer 146-149, 3 18, 348 care of clothes 5 7, 68-69 , 344- Comfort, John ( firm) 79
aftershave 15 I3lm:her 160, 161, 179,348 347 COlUlCIY, Sean 36, 75, 104
AgncJli, GialUli 35, ~, 227 B1uchcr, Gebhard Leberecllt Carn~, JotUlle 130 Cooper ( firm) 46
Alden ( fi nn) 65, 116, 153, 154, 160 Carrc ras, Jose Joaqrnn 236 Cooper, Gary 113, 139
155, 158, 16:J, 178, 179, 18 1 boat shoes 16=1, 186,319,348 Cartier (rum) 228, 229, 233, 237 Cordings of Piccadilly (fi rm)
Alien, Woody 127, 214 , 267 boate r 21 2, ::148 cashmere :)48 107, 148,205,247, :304, 306-307
Allcn-Edmonds (firm) 153, 154, Bogart, Humphrey :17 jacke t 128,31 4 cordovan 178-179, 348
158 Boothby, Sir Brooke 277 necktie 75, 76 cordllroy 125, 130, 131, 148, 189
Altman & Co., B. (firm) II I boots ::m5, 308, 3 12, 313 produ<:tion 284 cotlon :348
Anderson & Sheppard (finn) Borotra, Jean :l16 scarf 278, 279 manufacture 54-55
94,101, 104 Borsalino2 13 suit 114, l1fi pique shirl 3 17
AlIgelo (flrm) 109 bow Lie 85, 86, 325, 327 cavalry lwill130, 131, 148, 195, pajamas 339
angling, scc fis lwlg Bowler & Son (firm) 2 11 , 348 348 shirts 56
Anne , Princess 20 1 bmvler hat 210-211 , 213, 348 chalkstripcs 97, 189,348 suits 114-115
aran sweater 291, 295 Box, Joseph 169 chambray 64, 65 swea ters 291
Armani 113 boxcloth 142, 143 Chameau, Le (firm) :m5 wadding 101
Armstrong, Neil228 boxer short.s 42, 44 Charles rI , King of Great Britain court shoes 349
Asprey ( fi rm) 256 Braun ( fi nn) 19 72 covert cloth 125, 189
Astaire, Fred a7, 133,2 14,327 breeches :148 Charles, Prince of Wales 35, 53, covert coaL 195, a07, 348
Audemars Piguet (firm) 228, Breguel ( flIlTl) 228, 229 94, 104, 143,20 1, 209 c ravat 87
229 Breguet, Abraham-I..ou is 228 Charvet (firm) 74 , 339 Craven, Earl of 236
B Breitllng (flrm) 228, 229 Cheaney & Sons, Joseph (finn ) credit card holde r 225
briefcase 250-251 153, 154, 167,170 cricket sweater 294
Babers (firm) 171 , 177 Brigg & Sons 264 checks 189,314,348, 350 Crockett & Jones (firm) 153,
Badge & Button Company Brigg, see Swaine, Adeney, see also gingham; house check; ]54, 170, 171
(flrm) 149 Brioni (fmn), 109, 110-113, 128 Prince of Wales check; Crockett, Jolm (£inn) 305
Balmoral Ox.fords 158, 348 British warm 195, 348 shepherd's check Crombic coat 194,348
bandanna 72 brogue 158, 159, 160, 161, 165, chest hair 37 cuff links 248-249, 325, 350
Barbera (firm) 128,297 181 Cheste r Same (fi nn) 102- 103, cummerbund 325
Barbour (fum) 201 Brooks Brothers (firm) 65, 116, 141 Cundey, Angus 95, 325
Barbour jacke t 200-203 , 305 127, 142, 143, 179, 182,214, 297 Chesterfi eld (coat) 194, :148 custom-made
Harbour, John 20 I Brooks Brothers shirt 65 Cheviot 125, 189, 348 hats 213
baseball cap 213 Brooks, .Tohn 65 chinos 65, 134,149 shirts 62-63
Bass (firm) 65, 154, 162 Brown , Davies & Co. (firm) 50 Church, Thomas 171 shoes 156-157
Bass Weejuns 162, 317 Brugnon, Jacques 3 16 Church's (firm) 153, 154, 155, sportsjackeLs 128-129
bathrobe Brununell, George Bryan 72 159, 162, 166,170-171,175 su its 80, 92-93, 99-103 , I II
see also dressing gown 337 Brun, Henrik 45 ChurchW, Randolph 237 tailoJing 102, :148
Battistoni (firm) 109 brushes, Churchill, \Vinston 84, 183,215, cutaway collar 52, 53, 67, 83, 348
Baume & Mercier (fi lm) 228, see hairbmshes; clothes 228, 237 Cutler & Gross (firm) 269
229 brushes CifoneUi (firm) 109 Cutler, Graham 269
Baume, \\Tllliam 228 Budapest.s 159, 165,348 cigar 242-245 cutter 92, 99- 101,348
Bausch & Lomb (firm) 2(38, 2(39 buffalo horn 348 cigarette 236-237
D beard care 21 Burberry, Thomas 198 cigarette case 222, 237
beard s tyles 20 Burbenys (firm) 198 cigarette lighter 222 , 2:37 D'Avcnza (firm) 109
Bedford cord 125,305,348 Burlington (firm) 187 Clapton, Eric 104 Daif, Salvador 20
Davis, John 95
decr~ta iker 349
Oege & Sons, J. (firm) 94
D('l ia Valle, Diego 22, 184, 185 DeIon, Alain 214
denim 349 Derbys 160, 161 , 165, :349 det.achabie collar 52, 53
Dictrich, Marlcne 23, 104
Dior, Christian 22
Disney, Colonel 252
dive r's watch 23 1
dog tooth 125, :J4!J
Donegallweed 124, 349
double cuffs 249, 350
double-breas ted coat 96, 352
Douglas, 1lichael 143, 18!)
Drake, Michael J. 75, 278
Drake's ( firm) 74, 80 dress handkerdticf 270-275,
325 dressing goml :334, 3:36, 337,
341 dry cleaning 344, :l47, 351
duffe l coat 199 , :349
Dllnhill (firm) 237, 238
DuponL (fi rm) 237
Dusty "-"!adder 349
E Eau de Hermes 22
eau de toilette 15, 22-23
Eau Sauvage 22
Edinburgh, Duke of, see Phi lip,
Prince
Edmonds, Colin 104
Edward VII, King of Great
Britain and Ireland 105, 139,2 12
Edward VIll, King of Great
Britain and Northern Ireland,
sec Windsor, Duke of
Einstei.n , Albert 35
electric shaver 14, 18-19
Elizabeth I, Queen of England
238,288
Emanuele Filibe rto, Prince or
Savoy 20 equestrianism 302~103, 308-311
espadrilles 183, :319
Evans, David (firm) 349
evening dress 323
Extrac t of Limes (eau de
toilette) 22
F fabrics
see also individual fabrics 56,
58, 97, 114,1 17, 124-125
Fair Isle pullover 105
Fay (rum) 183
fedora 2 12
felt 101 , 123
Filofax 252-253
finger nails, care of:19
fish tail 349
fishing ;302-:33, 3 12-313
fi t ting :W8
sce also custom-made
flarmel l17, 120, 130, 131, 133,
146, 14R, 189,34H
flask 246-247
neur de lys sweater 295
F10rshei m (film) lfi4
Fonda, Henry 11 :3
Fonticoli,Nmmreno 110, II I
Foster & Son ( fiml) 1»7
fonntaill pen 222
four in hand knot 82, 83, 34B
Fox, Samuel 26:J, 265
fragrance notes 24 fragrances 22-25
Fremont, VIIH:cnt 1:37
freIlch cuffs 249 , :350
Friday shirt G!l
Frisch , Max 192
frock coat ;331
G gabardine 197, lDS, 349
Gable, Clark 113
Galliano, John 214
galloon :326, 349
galoshes 185, !J49
gentleme n's outfillerS,see
individual firms; Jermyn Street;
Savile How
George VI, King of Great Britain
and Northern Ireland 224
Gidden , W. & H. (rum) 30S
Gieve, Robert 96 , 350
Gieves & Hawkes ( firm) 74 , 98-
101 , 147, 195,290, 35 1
gingham 349
Giorgio of Beverly Hills (eau de
toilette) 23
glasses 266-269
glen check 97, 105
gloves 276-277, 327, 33 1
(Jodley, Robert 75
golf 3 14-315
Goodyear, Charles 17 1
Gorbachev, Mikhail 80
GravaU ( finn) 154
Green, Edward (fi rm) 153, 154,
171
Grey Flannel (eau de toilette) 23 Gross, Tony 269
Gucci ( firm) 154, 164, 165, 329
Guerlain (firm) 2:l Guernsey puUover 288-289,
3 19,:149
Guylas, Stephen 205
H Hackett ( firm) 140, 171
hacking jacket 309, 349
hai r brush 3 8
hair-care products 30-31
hairstyles 34-35, 208-209
hainyashing 32-33
Halston (design er) 14,22
Hamilton (firm) 22S, 229
handkerch ief, see dress
handkerchief
Hallway, Jonas 26;~
I-Iami ( firm) 154, 157
Hardy, Oliver 211 Hams, D. R. (finn) ;30 Harris tweed 124, :349
Harrod::; 338
Harvie & Hudson ( fi nn) 61
hats 208-217, 3 10-311, 312,
;H4
see also individual styles
Hawes & Curtis (finn) 82, 96, 104, ;327
Hayward , Dougla..<; 104
Hefncr, Hugh 337
Hemingway, Emest 20
Hcpburn , Aurlrey 133
Hennes (film) 76, 77, 83, 27:J, :308 Hermes, Ernile-Charles 77 Hermes, Thierry 77
herringbone 117, 124, 125, 194,
:349 herringbone twill 56
Herriot, J UIIlCS 64 , 329
Hetherington, John 212
Heuer, Edouard 228 HHditch & Key (film ) 61 , 74
Hili , Charles (firm) 74
Hockney, David :35
Holliday & Brm\TI (fi rm) 74
homburg hat 2 12, 349
hopsack 146
horsehair 101, 12 :~ , 129, a5}
Horween ( firm) 169, 178, 179
Honvitz, Alcxandre 18
houndstooth 125, :349 house check 349
house style 349
Hughes, Fred 137
Hunter wellies 305
hunting 20 1, 302-303 , 304 -3 05
Huntsman & Sons (fIrm) 93, 94,
103, :108 Hurd, Dougla,> 267
hush.-y jacket 205, 305, 308
I Inte rnational Watch Co 228 , 229 ironing 68-69 , 344
J ja<:ket, see blazer; club jacket; everting dress; fishing; golf;
husky jacke t; knitted garments;
morning coal ; packing a su itcase; quilted jacket; riding;
sailing; sheepskin jacket; smoking jacket; sports jacket;
SI lit.; tails; waxed jacket
Jaeger-Le-Coultre (firm) 229
Jagger, Bianca 104
Jagger, Mick 104
.Jaime, Don 20
jeans 134, 13 6-13 7, 149, IS9
Jermyn ~tl"ect 59-6 1, 350
jcwehy 232-233
Jockey ( briefs) 42, 44 , 46-47
,John, Elton 37,104
Johns & Pegg (finn) 104 Johnson, Herbert (firm) 2 1 :~
Johnson, Pltilip 267
K Kent & Sons, G.B. (ru·m) 38
Kent, ,John gG key holde r 222
Kilgour, French & Stanbury
(firm) 9fi, :327
King, I..arry 142
kipper neckt ie 82 , 350
Kiton (firm) 104, 109 , 128,141,
297
Klemann, Benjamin 157
kll itwear 282-297
Kltize ( fiml) ~J
Kn ize Ten (eau de toilette) 23
Kohl, Hchnut 80
L Lucoste (firm) 316·3 17
Lacoste , Rcne 316
Lage rfcld, Karl35
Langc & Sbhnc, A. (firm) 22S,
229 Lange, Ferd inand Adolph 228
Lnngsdorf, Jesse 72
lap robe 261 , 351
last 175, 350 Lauren, Ralph 22 , 64, IIG, 141 ,
17 1, 182,297, 317
lavender 25
leather 144, 168-169, 178-179,
277
Lcvi's 65, 136, 149, 297, 317
Lewin, T. M. (firm) 60
Lewlll, Thomas Mayes 60
Index :354 j 355
Li{'he l ]{~i l lt' r, W(Jlfg<lng 1M2
Lincoln, Abr3ham I1G
I, i!j(lb (~l'gll, Churles 228
linen 114, 111),271
timng 79, 12J, 12H, 1-11,349
J.loyd, Hel1 ri (firm) 205, :l IH
loafer 162-164, lU5, 179, IHl ,
184-1 85, IS6, l8H,:J29,331
Lobh, ,JoiUl (finn) 15:~, lfifi,
156-157, 165,171, 17:3
Lock & Co. (fi rm) 211, 310
lodclI196, 30:3, :m4, 150
Locwy, RaYlllond 19
Longinf'S (firm) 228, 22!J
Lorillal'd, Gri~w()ld 325
LottIssl' (finn) 1 5:~, lfi fi
LIIIllSlkll, Si r Harry 1:14
M Maedesfield tie 72
macintosh 197,350
.Macintosh, Charles HJi
~1acNee, Patlick 2 10
Madn ls cheek :U4 , ;3fiO
Majur, Dimi 104 maniclll'C 39 Manu, Thomas 208, 234, 261
:r.,'iarie-Antoinetle, Queen of
F'rant.:e 228
MilIinclla (fi rm) 80-81
J\'larinella, Eugenio 80 Marinella, Muuri ;-;;lO 80 Marlboro 2:31i-2:3 7
)'Iary I, Queen of England 288
Mary, QUecn of Seol,,> 2R8
masle r I.ai lo r 350
Mastroianni , :\1an.:cllo 278 Materna, Georg (firm) 157
McCartney, Paul 104
Menkes, Suzy 82
Mercier, Palll 228
me li no wool 1:33,284, 350
;\Iichae l, Or, Gem'se 38 i'.Iichael, Prince, of Kent 82
Missoni (finn) 296-297 Missoni , Angda 297
Missoni, Oclavio 29G, 297
f\I issull i, Rosita 286, 297
Mitterand, Fram.ois HO
mixture of putterns 274-275
mobile phone 222
moccasins 1n4, Jii2, I G3, 165 ,
:150
mohair 114, 115,284,350
moleskin 1:30, 131,350
money 224-225
Illonkstrap shoes 166, 331 , 350
Montezcltlolo, Luca di 22
~'Ionlgomcry, B(.! rnard Law 199
Moore , Hoger 104
Moresdti (fi I111) 154
mOi'Jl i! lg coal ::!OH, :l:31, :348
morning flrps!; 330·331
Morris, I'hilip2:Hi, 2:37
lllu ft.i 350
N nailhead 97, ISH
Napo]eOlI 1301ll1parte 228
lIeckcloth 72, BD, 33 1 necktie 66, 72-87, 148, 274-275, 3 13, J:H , 350
black 323, 324 -325
business RI
buying 74
('are of 347
Hel1l1f':> 77, j..j8
history of 72, 85
knitted 75
making 79, 81
Marindla 80 striped 7:3
lying 82-8:3
sec also bow tie; cravat ;
ind ivid ual firms; Ilcckdoth
necktie knOTs 82-83
Nelson, Albert 101 Nelson, Horatio 288
New & LlIIgwood ( fi rm) 60 Nicky ( finn) 75
Nicoletto, Aido 109
nightshirt :i:lH
Niven, David 20
Norfolkjacket 120, ::ISO Nonna ll & Hill (firm) 252
Nutter, TOllllIIY 104
o Ogilvy, David 2:38
Omega (lirnl) 228, 228
O'Nei l, PelP.l' 99
open (cutthroat) r<izor 14, 17
ost rich leather aSI over:-;hirt 50·69
Oxford cloti ! 56, u5, ;350
Ox ford shoes 15B, IG9, 1G;l,
IGG, 3:3 1, 350
p packing (l sllitcase 25H-2fi9
Paco Rabanne pour Homme 2:J
pnjamas 334, 338-339, 351
Panama hat 216·217, 3 14
pants 120, 130-141, 148-149
see also cveniug d ress; golf;
jeans; riding; sailing; shorts;
suit; tails; trouser makers ete
Paone , Ciro 109
Partridge, John (firm) 20!i
Pa lek Philippf' ( fi rm) 228, 229
patent shoes :129
Pl'IlIlY loafers J()2, 17H, :351
Pepila 124
perfumer 24
perfumes 22-25
I)hiiip, Pril](;e flu, 104, ~() l
Philips (fil1ll) IS-IH
Philishave 18 Piagl't Crtrlll) 228
l'icas..<;o , Pablo 2 15, 2:37
p igskin ;35 1
Pi nk, Thomas (fi nll) fi 1
pinpoint 5G pinstripes 97, 18!1, :350 pipes 238-241
pleated-froll t tl'Ouser~ 4G,
W8- t:39, 140, )..ji,;J48
fJ lus fonrs a5 1 pocket flask 246-247
Jlot.:ketknife 222, 307
Poco briefs 44
Poitier, Sidney 11:3
Polo (eau de toiiet.lc) 22
polu coat 196 polo Rhi rt 31 4, 31 6-3 17, :351
1'oole &. Co. , HClIIY (firm) 95
fJo plin 5(j, :35 1
pork-pie hal2 14
P0l1 folio25 1
Pri nce of Wales check 97,105,
117, 18H, :l!i l
profiled soles 184
pure \"001
h la;-;;er 146
lleektic 75
Ruil 11 4 , 115
trouser" l:H see also knitted garments
purse 225
R Rabanne. Pa<:o :n Radermacher, Heillz-.Josef G2
Rarl., George 213 Raglan sleeve 107, :3;", 1 R<lleigh, Si r Waltl'r 2:35, ~:38
Ray Ban 268, 2Cifj
l'(!ady-to-wear garnwllt~ 93,
111 ,:150
Heagan, Ronald 53
Regent (finn) 102
f(;,'gimental nec kt ic 73, 351
Rcile r, Llld" .. ig (fi1111) 15:1, l!i5
rihbed twill 56
riding mac 197, :)09
ritiillg, see equcslrianisnl
Rockwell, Norman Percl'val334
Roc\cn, Geroge 9f)
Hogers & Co. ( !inn) 94
Rolex (firm) 228, 229
Rose, Derek (firm) :1:37, :):38
Husetti, Fl'atelli (firm) 154
Rothnlan'i, LO!Jis 2:lQ
RCludnit.<;ka, Edmolld 2:3
Hllhi JI~tein, MUlll r 228
s saddle shoes 182, :151
sailing 318-319
&lint Laurcllt, YV(~s 2:37
Salllsonite (firm) ~;)G
Santol'i 110
Savile HolY 92·95, fit) , fl9, lO2-
Ill;}, 104, 128, :351
Savin i, Gaela ll o 110, II I Scalfa ro, Oscar Luigi SO st.:arf 278-279, 3~(i
sdlool neckl.ies 7:3, 351
Schwl!itzel', Albc rt 20
SemI', Grace 252
Sea Island cottOll flG, :35 1 S~al1eld , COlllllt~SS of !J7
Schago ( finn) 1M, 162 seersueker 11 7
Segal, rTed 1:36
Sellers, Peter 11 :3, 3 Hi
sl' rge 146
Revell-fold til' 76
shavi ng 14-21
shaving hl'l.l<;h 14, 17 shavmg t.: rearn 14
shppherd's check 124
Shetland \'>'001 2u 1, :351
shirt collar FiO, 5 1, 52-53 , f-j6-07
shirts, care o f ni, 68-69
sltirls, see nighTsh irt ; oversh ir t;
]l/)lo~hirt, :mloldngjtlckd;
!aileoat; tlJ!derwear
shoe t.rees :14 7, :3G I ~ hoes: 152-203 , a05, 308, :315, :) lfl, :)29, :3:1 1, :1:3-1
ilUt.:kled 166
buying 152-155
care :Wl-;I47
lace-up 158-]61 , 181, 182,
ISB Hlanufadure Hi!), 172-177
repail' :346 see also hout:>; indtvidual
firms; individlml nwde1s
~horts 1:35
shoulders fl6, 12.8 Shwayder, .Je!>Sc 2Gu silk 351
cravat 87
tll't:klle 75, 7(i
origins of 78
pajamas :J39
production 2H4-28f>
s hirl 5fl
suit 114, 115
Simenon, GCO['gl's 2:38
Simpson (finn) ;n~;
Sinatra, Frank :37, 11:1, 14:l, 214
Sindair, An!.hony 104
sillg le-breastl~(1 coat ;]49
slip-on coat HJ7, :351
slipper" 183, 3.14
Smith &. &)1[, James ( firm) 26:3 Smith, Peter !HJ
"lOoking 2:15
see also cigar; dgnrerlc; pipe
sllIokingjackc l ~2a, 324·325 , 32R, :329 sock" 186-187 , :325 soft roU collar 52, 5:1, (i!) , 249
Spert',Y Topsilict's;nU
spurt 300-3 J 9
sce also individual s por!;<;
sportsjnckct 120· 129, ;35 1
s(,)rcari eoll<lr (cutaway cullur) 52,!):1
Srokowski, Leopold 2!lfi
Strauss, Levi 1;)6
straw hat 212
sw:_,<ie shoes 18 0-181
suit 90-117, :348
care of :-144- 34::;
casual :35] double-brt ~asted 9o, :)1)2
I:;nglish !)(j, 108
hL<;tory!ll in general flO-91
Iralian 10R
sununer 115
see also individual fabrics,
ind ividual firms; made to
mca'>urc; morning dress;
packing a suitcase; finvile
Hmv; tails; LUxedo
suitcases 2f>1, 254·259
Super WO (wool) 114,35 1
suspenders 96, 116,138, I:HJ,
140, 142-143, :~49
Swaine, Adeney, Brigg & Sons
(firm) 2Fi l , 2G:3, 264-265
sweater, see individuallllorlels;
knitwear
Swiss batiste 1)6
T tab collar 52, 5.'3
TAG Heuer (firm) 228, 2~n
tai1coaL 209, :{2~~, 326-327, 329,
:14~
tailor 92, 0:3, 95, 102, 350
Tailors, Tobias (firm) 74, 95
wrtan 352
ta<;,sel lonfers 162, 16.'3, 179, ~J52
Ta lLersail check I)G, 64, 7!'i , :352
Tat t ersalJ, Riehard 64
Te le rie Spadali ( firm) 58
Thurston, Albcrt. (firm) 14:~
T'ibhett (firm) 194
ticket Ixx:ket :348
l'imherJand 154
tohacco proccssing 23!'i
Tod's,J, p, (firm) 154, 184-IRS,
2~J7
lop hat. 200, 212, ;327, :3:31, ;352
toupee 36-37
trench eoat 198, :352
Trider:<; (fi rm) 15;3 , 1&4, Wi, 170,171,183, ;m5
trilby hat 20!), 212 , 310-311 ,
:352
trmunel' :352
t.rouser ma ker nz, 100, :35Z
trollsers, SP.e pants 'l'rumpcr's (firm) 22 , 30, 33
Tumi (finn) 2,')6
Turnhull & Asser (fu'm) 5::1,58,
60,74, 104 , (96
turndown collar 52, 5;3
tl1xedo :32:3, 324-:J25, :328, ;WJ,
:)49, :152
tweed
caps 213, 3 12
fahrics 75, 124-125, :352 hat.s 2 12, :112 jackpts 120, 126· 127 , 128,
205, :I ll sllits flG , 106-107,304, :Hl
u umhrella 262-265 , ;31;3, 315
underwear 42-47
v Vass, Laszl6 157
vest 203,285, :308, 312, 326,
:l:U, 352
vest makcr 92, 100, 352
veLivcr 2~~
VictOlia, Queen of Gl'eall3rilain
and Ireland 147
vicufla 284 , :l52
Villcmln , ,lean Nicot 2:1:'>
Vilucd, Al!~clo to!)
Viyella 56, :n\l, :-l52 Vuitton, Gcorges 254
VlIiUon, Louis (fll'm) 2!)O, 254-
255 ,256
w \Vagner, Robel'l 113
waistband
adjustable 140, 14:~, 352
elasticized :WD
waist-pleat trousers 46,1:18-
1:39, 140, 141 , :348
wal king cane 260
wallet 222, 225
Warhol , Amly :37, 42, 11G, 1:-17
.. vateh 226-231 see also individual
nlanu fnct ul'l'rs
Walson, Teddy (lu , 104
waxed jilcket 200-20:3, 3G2
Wayne, ,JohIl 11:3 Weatherill , nernard 91'5
\VelJin~lon , Dl lke of228
Welsh & ,Iefflies (fiI1l1) 104 Weston, J, n, (firm) 154
\vd shaving 17
wh ipcord :152
Wild!;' , Oscar 341 \Vildsmit.h (firm) 154
Wilkinson & Som. (firm) 94
windcheatCl' 314
Windsor knot 83 Windsor, Duke of r~3, 82, 97,
105, 143, 239, ;J04, 3CXi, :J25, :352
winglips 158, If)} , 170, :348
Wolfe, Tom 50, 58
wool
blazer 14fi
coatI94- 19(j
knitwear Z82-2~17
nccktie 75
pants 13:3
scarf 279
suil l 14, lIS
see also ca<;hme l'e; fia llnl'i;
m erino wool; mohai.r; ptlre new
wool; worsted
worsted 97,125, 12R, 146, 2R8
Wrighr of Derby, .Ioseph 277
y Young, Tc rcllce 104
z Zola, Emile 16
lll(iex ;3561 ;357