BESPOKE SUMMER 2012

EDITOR: KEELY GARDNERART DIRECTOR: JOANNA ZAMBASBEAUTY EDITOR: VICTORIA RITCHER-HARTFASHION EDITORS: HAMISH WIRGMANCARLA SEIPP,KATE FRENCHKAREN MCCANNMUSIC EDITORS: CHARLIE WOODSALEX STEFANIFILM EDITOR: MARIELLA AGAPIOUSOCIETY EDITOR: MAX HORTON

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS:SARA BELLINIMISTY GRIFFITHSSHANICE BRYCESALOME BAKPAVALENTINA LEONSULA JANSCO

IMAGES:SALOME BAKPAVITA SLUKAKIRSTY FEDERIKALEX STEFANILEAH SINCLAIRCAMEO WEEKES

EXTRA PAIR OF HANDS: TERRY NEWMAN

THANKS TO:DEBORAH LAMPITT, ROBERT DE NIET, JAMES ANDERSON, ALYSON WALSH, ALEXIA ECONOMOU, HANNAH SHAKIR, GARETH EDWARDS AND LUCY O’BRIEN.

Spring Summer 2012PUNK ISSUE

PART 1: HAPPENING.Billie Whizz by Hamish Wirgman

PART 2: WEARING

PART 3: THINKING

1

“A guy walks up to me and asks ‘What’s Punk?’. So I kick over a garbage can and say ‘!at’s punk!’ So he kicks over the garbage can and says ‘!at’s Punk?’, and I say ‘No that’s trendy!”!e year was 1977 and Britain was hovering in recession. Unemployment "gures were the worst since the Second World War, with school leavers least likely to "nd work. Public spending had risen and the optimism of the 1960s had faded away. !e social and political climate in which young people were growing up resulted in a feeling that was a mixture of resentment, frustration and anger. It was inevitable that all this would cause a tide of teenage rebellion and when it found its voice it wasn’t afraid to raise it. Punk culture saw musical heroes in !e Damned and the Sex Pistols - who kicked, screamed and raged against authority, the media, and sugar-coated pop hits. Fashion ushered in a rip and tear mentality with slogan t shirts, studs and leather all presided over by the #ueen a.k.a Vivienne Westwood. And through this revolution ‘punk’ was born.Today we see the same seeds of anger beneath the surface of society. Recent riots in communities across Britain and those of young people and students making a stand against the government highlight public frustration. So as we search for ways to express our opinions and our dissatisfaction it’s no wonder that elements of punk are appearing on the catwalk, in advertising, in make-up looks and of course in music. !is issue of Bespoke combines our creative talent to present the 2012 new wave of punk. So Never Mind !e Bollocks – Here’s Bespoke.

Keely Gardner Editor

EDITORIAL

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HAPPENING

BILLIE WHIZ...LONDON’S TOP NEW MODELBILLIE TURNBULLTWhen you think model you may nor-mally jump to a clichéd judgment - pretty dumb, aesthetically pleas-ing but above all boring people who probably love themselves. Sadly from past experience I have found that on the most part this is completely true. However the good news is I’m not al-ways right, and this piece is certainly not going to be a big fat whine about models.I have found the exception to the rule in Billie Turnbull. Her ego is in check despite being shot by the likes of Nick Knight who has been captivated by her suede-head-skin head good looks. All this despite being still in school. And that’s not all. She also has had the great fortune to be shot alongside

some pretty big male models like Yuri Pleskum, Jack Royal, Danny Reed and Dan Felton too so the industry is clearly catching up with her style. And surprisingly Billie is just as good behind the camera so not just a face. Her own photography portfolio in-cludes some beautiful shots of friends including the artist Jenkin Van Zyl and young sparks Daisy Davidson and Harry Daniels. Her photos pro-duce an honest feeling. Slightly gory sometimes, her subjects have a twist-ed image that is conversely almost sugary sweet at times. What with talent and good looks we should hate her of course, but take a look beneath the hype and you may well look twice too….

HAMISH WIRGMAN

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GETTING TO GRIPS WITH DEATH...Crawling under the skin of a genre which has become increasingly pop-ular since the worldwide obsession with OFWGKTA, and the dozen or so angry teenagers who release mu-sic under its in$uence, Death Grips appear ready to explode through its chest cavity and attack the West Coast music scene. Vocalist Stefan Burnett and produc-tion duo Zach Hill and Andy Morin "rst emerged with their self-released mix tape Exmilitary in the spring of 2011. Its impact was helped by the pairing of powerful low-" beats and panic attack vocals, which at times melted away from any recognis-able structure and created a wave of emotionally charged sound. It’s not the jarring intensity which high-lights them among less noteworthy examples of the contemporary Hor-rorcore movement; it’s the sincere-ness of their music. Since it’s become cool to burn schools and swear a lot, the experimental hip-hop scene has

become clogged with youthful hate - hate which explodes with initial in-tensity but eventually dissolves into a lukewarm impersonation of itself. What Death Grips has brought to the table is a legitimate set of motives and ideologies centred on raw attempts at connecting to their audience with original ferocity. !eir recent signing to Epic Records have raised them to a level above ob-scure music makers and given them a platform on which to reach a bigger audience. With two albums lined up for this year, it will be interesting to see how well they will strike a balance between content and quality. !eir style is set to in$uence the younger generation and spawn bands who site them as a musical father "gure (be it an estranged and abusive one). !e question is how long it will take for yet another original movement to become diluted down to a cliché dismantled the point where it can be summarised on a T-shirt.

CHARLIE WOODS

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THE WEDDING OF MUSIC AND FASHION....

!e happy couple Sir Music and Lady Fashion announced the date of the happy event, taking place on April 28 at Yard Life Festival, Hackney Downs Studios, East London earlier this year to happy applause. Pete Doherty will celebrate the wedding and the guest list includes indie bands Babeshadow, the Recusants, Gaoler’s Daughter, the Savage Nomads, iC1S and DJs Rory Phillips, Filthy Dukes, Alex Egan and Lemmy Ashton.Your invitation will be sent a%er a suggested £10 donation to Multi-ple Sclerosis Research and ALL the money raised with the event will go to charity. Dress your mind and body in green to "t the eco-friendly initia-tives promoted by UpCycle, like the ExChange: switch your trash with items made in upcycled materials and help the world be inhabited by living creatures and not by rubbish.Before and a%er the celebration you

will be entertained with art instal-lations and fashion events. Get the festival look with the help of hairstyl-ists and makeup artists, buy a dress (bargains from £15) at Judy’s A&ord-able Vintage Fair and take part to the vintage tea party. If you have a once-fabulous-now-old out"t you want to make stylish again, learn how at Stitched Up with the help of brides-maid extraordinaire Singer. A%er you have made, mended and glittered your armour, go on a quest and com-plete the new secret task within Jojo Townsand’s Wow Project.So raise a pre-festival toast to the bride and groom who will be happy to see you in all their guitar-ri& splen-dour and vintage-dress allure. Enjoy the wedding of the year.For more information or to get an invitation go to www.yardlifefestival.co.uk

SARA BELLINI

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PAOLO ROVERSI EXHIBITION AT THE WAP-PING PROJECT BANKSIDE

Paolo Roversi’s exhibition at !e Wapping Project Bankside gallery in south London provided the perfectly personal setting for an array of plati-num, silver gelatin and pigmented prints from his Nudi and Studio se-ries to be admired.!e legendary photographer’s sig-nature style of large format instant Polaroids, which he developed in the eighties, has seen him collaborate with the likes of Comme des Garcons, Yohji Yamamoto, and Christian Dior. While the exhibition also featured Roversi’s work with models such as Kristen Owen and Natalia Vodiano-va, the main focus was on his long-time muse, Guinevere Van Seenus.Although a majority of his images are in black and white, when Roversi does use colour, albeit muted, it is to a striking e&ect: the Bordeaux red of an Yves Saint Laurent marabou feather-peplumed dress worn by the beauti-fully vulnerable looking Van Seenus

or the mustard yellow of a tulle gown, which worn with an oversized coni-cal Chinese hat, envelops its wearer in fabric, building a complimentary con-trast to the sierra brown background like a mushroom to the earth.He may put hours of e&ort into per-fecting each image, but judging by the relaxed body language of his subjects and details such as the rolling down nylon over knee socks and wrinkled button down in Guinevere Sitting On Table, Paris 2004 that give each picture a sense of naturalness and hu-manity.Be it an otherworldly supermodel or an unknown subject that he is photo-graphing, there is always something inexplicably haunting, captivating and timeless about Roversi’s work. !e minimal set-up of his pictures, o%en a simple studio backdrop, e&ec-tively showcases his intimate connec-tion with those in front of the lens; luminescently lit from within,

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their eyes pierce out of the image and directly into the viewer.Regardless of whether one is seeing it for the "rst or "%h hundredth time, whether it was taken thirty years or thirty days ago, a Paolo Roversi pic-

ture never loses its impact.

paoloroversi.com

thewappingprojectbankside.com

CARLA SEIPP

JOHN PEEL: WE SALUTE YOU

Somebody was trying to tell me that CD’s are better than vinyl because they don’t have any surface noise. I said, “Listen, mate, life has surface noise.”– John Peel.Five months doesn’t seem enough time to delve through and publish the complete archives of John Peel, Radio 1’s longest serving DJ, recognized for championing new music and pro-moting punk, amongst other genres, before they hit the mainstream. But somebody has been brave, or stupid, enough to try. An innovative online museum aims to archive 40,000 singles and 25,000 LP’s (CD "gures are beyond count-able) from Peel’s back catalogue. !e digital exhibition of the shows, vinyl art-work and ramblings of the record collector extraordinaire will be made available online from May. “!e idea is to digitally recreate John’s home studio and record collection, which users will be able to interact with and contribute to, whilst view-

ing Peel’s personal notes, archive per-formances and new "lmed interviews with musicians”, says Frank Prender-gast, creative director of Eye Film and Television. Remembering Peel hasn’t just been a virtual a&air either, with writer John Osborne debuting his sell out show, John’s Shed at the Edinburgh festival last year, that poignantly remembers the broadcaster. !e writer, who won a box of records on Peel’s Radio One show once and then spent over eight-years trying to get through them, shares his favourites on stage using a record player. With John’s Shed, the BBC re-nam-ing of a wing of their new building a%er Peel earlier this year and the pioneering online museum initiated in his honour, it seems the radio leg-end is deservedly once again in the public eye. As Osborne, the curator of John’s Shed reverentially words it, the archives will be ‘an ode to radio, those records, and anyone who’s ever sought solace in wireless.’

KATE FRENCH

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BESPOKE’S MOST EXCELLENT FILM PICKS...

!e British Summer can fail us, bring-ing wind and rain, when all we want is sunshine and a hotter climate. How-ever, with some great "lms being re-leased this summer, you can forget the weather and munch on popcorn. Mariella Agapiou recommends the must see "lms and festivals of the sea-son.

A Fantastic Fear of EverythingSimon Pegg plays a children’s author who turns to crime "ction in this dark comedy. His research into the lives of Victorian serial killers turns him into a paranoid idiot. Written and co-di-rected by CJ Mills (Kula Shaker) with Chris Hopewell. [Out June 8th]

Rushes Soho Shorts Festival If annoyed with the predictable blockbusters out there, you can check out the work of newcomers and es-tablished "lmmakers, who’s work is shown at cinemas, screening rooms and cafes throughout Soho and Lon-don’s West End. [ July and August go

to http://shorts"lmfestival.com/ for more details]

TedFans of South Park will love creator Seth McFarlane’s feature debut. ‘Ted’ is a story about a man’s (Mark Wahl-berg) teddy bear that comes alive. However, contrary to popular belief, this bear is anything but cuddly. !e swearing, lazy toy disrupts his owner’s mundane life. If you’re not a fan of South Park, better give it a miss. [Out August 3rd]

Portobello Film Festival!is completely free "lm festival was set up in 1996 to promote new cin-ematographers and "lms made on di&erent formats. It includes features, shorts, documentaries, music "lms and animation. You’re sure to be in-spired. [August go to http://www.portobello"lmfestival.com/ for more details]

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On !e Road ‘On the Road’ is based on Jack Ker-ouac’s 1957 novel, directed by Wal-ter Salles. Fans of the book are sure to $ock to screenings; with British actor Sam Riley (‘Control’) playing

Sal Paradise and stars such as Kristen Stewart, Kirsten Dunst, Amy Adams, this adaptation is set to capture the at-tention of a new audience. [Out Sep-tember]

MARIELLA AGAPIOU

HELEN BULLOCK...

Helen Bullock’s hand-printed de-signs are helping put the fun back in fashion. Her two season-young label already counts Julie Verhoeven as a fan and with her colourful geometric, paisley and $oral printed tunics and maxi dresses it’s easy to see why.Hailing from Shropshire, the MA Fashion graduate from Central Saint Martins (where she also currently works as an illustration and design tu-tor) re"ned her cra% at labels includ-ing John Galliano and Ossie Clark before launching her own namesake line. Alongside her own collections, Bullock is a freelance print designer for accessories at Louis Vuitton.With her latest autumn/winter col-lection inspired by sculptor and in-stallation artist Jessica Stockholder, YBA painter Gary Hume, South London housing, nail art, the dy-namics of cliques, the female form and the work of Louis Feraud, it be-comes clear that Bullock’s aesthetic is a proverbial melting pot of in$uences which blends into one unique and

whimsical look. Having expressed a passion for illustration, painting and sculpture alongside fashion, the Lon-don-based designer’s work puts a re-freshingly artistic and personal touch back on the runway.!e raw construction "nishes of her pieces act as a canvas for Bullock’s painted prints, which are laid out across the body in large-scale, abstract forms. !e designer notes that the visible human touch on her clothes, as opposed to digitally printed per-fection are an important aspect of her work, with the imperfections giving the pieces vitality, and ultimately, an individual character.With London cultivating print fash-ion with for the likes of international names such as Jonathan Saunders, Mary Katrantzou and Peter Pilotto, one could predict Helen Bullock as the city’s next big (print) thing. Hav-ing already been featured on the likes of Dazed Digital and exhibited at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, the industry appears to agree.

CARLA SEIPP

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AN INTERN’S GUIDE INTO THE FASHION INDUSTRY...Experience, in our line of work, is an invaluable attribute and whom we know is just as important as what we know. Its a well known fact that we’ve chosen one of the most competitive career paths to follow, and gaining work experience in fashion never has been and never will be an easy task. Stand out from the crowd and get as much experience as you can in order to present yourself to a future em-ployer as determined and dedicated. !ese days there is such a demand for internships that the designers and PR agencies can a&ord to be picky about whom they want to employ even if it is for free. WHO do I contact?!e Fashion Week website has the contact information of all the design-ers or their PR agency on each design-er pro"le. Emailing as many as you can usually elicits a response from at least one. You will generally "nd yourself working with a PR agency, as each one represents most designers. Per-severance is a skill one should possess here. Unfortunately, most PR agen-

cies set their mailboxes to send out a standard reply, usually, “Your request for tickets has been denied due to lack of space”, or something like that. If this happens, it might be worth call-ing the agency or even the designer and asking for an internship.HOW should I present myself ?If you get an interview, wearing some-thing stylish is obviously essential. Present yourself as con"dent, able and diligent. Timekeeping is impera-tive also. Its better to arrive half an hour early than bang on time, and it makes a bad "rst impression if you ar-rive even a minute late.WHAT should I look out for?It’s more a case of whom. I’ve heard many good stories about Blow PR; the sta& is helpful, friendly, and chilled out, perfect for a "rst time intern. On the other hand, other PR compa-nies have a more dubious reputation, Ella Dror PR in particular. Havinghad personal experience with Ella Dror, and a%er hearing many horror stories about them, I can safely (and politely) say it may not be the best

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idea, at the very least. SNOW PR is another good PR agency. !e sta&, although not altogether as polite as the sta& at Blow, know what they’re doing, and do it well. WHAT can I expect?Don’t jump straight in expecting great things, it isn’t glamorous. You will "nd that most of your tasks will involve manual work at some point. Be it dressing models, making tea, deliver-ing invitations, or managing the press. Patience is a very handy skill when it comes to Fashion Week. PR sta& will be stressing, guests will be stressing, the designer will be stressing, and all

will be undoubtedly directing their frustration at something, be it you, the models, the stylist, whoever. Just take a deep breath and take it on the chin.Don’t let any of that put you o&. Working at Fashion Week is an in-valuable insight into how our indus-try works, and being a part of that is rewarding in it. It will also give you a taste of what to expect in the future, whether you’re a stylist, photogra-pher, journalist, PR or designer, wit-nessing "rst hand how they operate. Oh, and if you’re lucky, you might be invited to the a%er party.

MAX HORTON

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J POP AND J ROCK...

Spawned from the love of Malcom Mclaren and Vivienne Westwood, with the idea to combine music and fashion, the record label Chubby Kids was born. Andrea Chamberlain and Dele Ladimeji set up the label two years back to coincide with their success over in Japan. !e pair man-aged to get a blanket licence deal with Avex Goup Holdings in Japan where they wrote a song - for Asuko Meade, former member of girl band AKB48- which rocketed straight to number one last August and sold around 200,000 copies in its "rst day. Now that’s success! However the pair were not "nished yet and they recently had another number one but this time, in the global charts with band Arashi and their album Beautiful World which sold over two million records.Now they are branching out into the fashion scene. With Chamberlain

having a wealth of experience in fash-ion due to her fashion styling back-ground - where she has worked on ed-itorials for Australian Vogue, Nylon and NME. It’s not a surprise that the talented creative couple would bring fashion and Japanese music together to create J Pop and J Rock “vintage style grudge T-shirts”. Each T-shirt is accompanied by a USB stick that showcases ten tracks of up and com-ing artists to create a real fusion of mu-sic and fashion. !e genre of music is varied, “USB sticks will be an eclectic mix of pop through to indie and rock to electro. We’re not afraid to mix up the genres” says Chamberlain. !e pair hopes to follow in the foot-steps of Def Jam records and become internationally known. With what they have accomplished already I think it’s safe to say they might well be.

MISTY GRIFFITHS

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WEARING

COSMETICS ON THE CAT-WALK...

London fashion week is always an exhilarating time, when the best designers from around the globe showcase their current and some-times possibly best collections yet. However it is not only the clothes and accessories that set tongues wagging. Make-up has become just as signi"cant and an integral compo-nent to creating a polished over all look. What the models are wear-ing on their face is as important as what they slide onto their miniature frames. Make-up is away of bringing an out"t alive and is another way to become a trendsetter and this was certainly the case at this years LFW A/W 12.!ere were a few designers in par-ticular that developed an interesting look during the week, Corrie Nielsen being one of them. Inspired by her Scottish heritage, Nielsen’s collection consisted of traditional tartan fabrics and tailoring techniques married with avant-garde shapes - but this

didn’t stop at the clothes. Her intri-cate plaid patterns were mirrored by the make up, with checkered designs imprinted on the face using a delicate cut out which emerged from the hair, covering the eyebrow, eyelid and cheekbone. Paired with a deep rose red lip, sun kissed cheeks and simple $icked eyeliner it was experimental and striking.Meadham Kichho& was another that caught my attention in the make-up stakes. !e collection expressed some serious disco dazzling as girls stomped down the catwalk in mega chunky heels covered in sparkles, $inging glitter while the pom-poms in their twinkling hair bounced from side to side. !e models faces acted as blank canvas for "nger painting - candy colours had been strategically wiped onto their faces and spread across the brows and down one side of the nose while macaroon coloured glitter was used as a highlighter on

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CORRIE NEILSON

the cheeks and under the eyes. Last but by no means least is Bora Aksu. With his classic signature bows, paired with so% knitted dresses and classic "tted pencil skirts, prim shirts and baby doll dresses, this cute col-lection was paired with a barely there make-up look to bring it together – but there was a twist. !e models sported dewy skin, nude eyes, and

their pretty faces adorned with $oral lace which mirrored the patterns on the clothing. Not to mention the all-important attention grabbing ice blue lips. It was the face-paint here that added an avant-garde feel to an otherwise classic collection. Viva la maquillage. Watch what it gets up to next season….

VICTORIA RITCHER-HART

BORA AKSU

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MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF31 | S/S Bespoke

21st CENTURY BOY...

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Boy….

SHANICE BRYNE

Boy keeps swinging.

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PLAIN JANE DOES PUNKPunk is having a bit of a come back these days, with Doc Martins and leather jackets everywhere… but you don’t have to be a crazy rocker, or head to toe anarchist with a Mohican to get in on the trend. Here’s how to do Punk the simple way.!e easiest way is to take aspects of the style that you like (studs, leather, black) and use them in a way that suits your own personal wardrobe. For example, I worked as an assistant for Clements Ribeiro at the most re-cent London Fashion Week and for Autumn Winter the designers used leather to harness the punk theme but kept it appropriate for their target au-dience and wowed the audience with a below knee leather skirt. Another key concept of the original punks is their crazy hair colours; this was also seen in S/S 12 collections, such as !akoon where powder pink was the colour of choice.An easy way to achieve this, with-out permanently changing your hair colour or damaging it, is to use either La Riche, Directions hair colours, available on eBay for pennies, or Lee Sta&ord’s Colour Xtreme Colour Spray, which you will come across in Poundland- see, no breaking the bank

needed. Since we all attend a fashion and arts university, why don’t we get cra%y who will? Home- made tie-dye is so much better than just buying it. Just grab an old T-shirt, liquid or pow-dered dye, salt and water; it looks very grunge.Finally, who can look at all punk without a few studs? A lot of people I know have been altering their clothes with cra% shop studs recently, a few on the shoulders of a vintage cardi-gan, a couple on the tongue of their Con-verse and a load on the rim of a pair of socks and viola, punk. If you aren’t feeling at all creative, just nip to Topshop and buy a pair of studded tights for £12, same e&ect, less e&ort.So there is no excuse to not rein in the S/S 12 trends and get your punk on. Anarchy in the UK? Well it’s going down well in Surrey…..

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EYE SPY: PAPER SELF LASHESHowever busy you were during the Autumn-Winter London fashion shows, you would have still found time to have a catch-up gossip. But forget Kate Moss - Paperself was the name on everyone’s lips. With a small set up in the Rock Vault as well as style-central Somerset House, Paper-self were providing classy hackettes a chance to try out their new and novel falsies. !ey went down a treat. Paperself creates a contemporary way of wearing false lashes. Gone are the days of choosing between thick or extra long lashes and it’s all about whether you want tiny birds perching on or lashes or $owers blooming from your lash line. !e lashes are inspired by the art of Chinese paper cutting. !e designs blend together an element of tradi-tional culture with a contemporary twist. Paper material are delicately cut into exquisite and fragile shapes cre-ated for maximum $utter. !e lashes come in two sizes, a small size that ac-centuates the outer corner of the eyes for a subtler daytime look or a full

lash to make a statement. Paperself have a number of di&erent designs including !e Lace Garden collection that was an exclusive col-laboration between Paperself and the Victoria and Albert Museum. !e lashes were inspired by French Ribbon lace from the 19th Century. Meanwhile, the Rocky Punk Collec-tion works in contrast with idea of Paperself lashes, using unlikely imag-es such as scorpion tails cra%ed into fragile loveliness. However the newest collection from Paperself is the most ultra fabulous. !e British Collection has been cre-ated in celebration of the #ueens Diamond Jubilee and !e London Olympic games. !e lashes are an expression of UK ‘cra%smanship and inventive spirit’. !e ‘London’ lashes take on the from of the London sky-line, including the London Eye (nat-urally), Big Ben and Tower Bridge, while the ‘Rose’ lashes are designed with beautifully re"ned roses to rep-resent the national $ower of England. Lashes of fun!

VICTORIA RITCHER-HART

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Photography by Kirsty

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WHERE TO SHOP PUNKSitting only a stone’s throw away from hipster hotspot Brick Lane, is Sick, a small vintage store that lures passing crowds through its eye-catching exte-rior. !e shop is ran by Steph Raynor, the owner of BOY, the cult label and iconic shop that alongside Westwood’s SEX helped kicked o& the punk/bondage scene in London back in the 80’s. Despite a large amount of 90’s rave clothes – remnants of the BOY aesthetic are still evident throughout the store. Slashed, pinned vintage pieces – customised by the sta& them-selves - are presented against designer T-shirts and leather bombers. De-spite its rich history and role in the ignition of punk – it somehow still seems to be an undiscovered gem. If the window display is anything to go by; a shredded sex pistols t-shirt and an open crotched mannequin – this store’s captured and maintained the feisty spirit BOY once had.

If you fancy venturing out of central to shop punk, head south to the heart of Brighton laines. Hidden down in the airless basement of Immediate Clothing lies PunkerBunker, a well-kept secret amongst locals that stocks hundreds of vintage t-shirts amongst other punk paraphernalia such as LP’s and magazines from the rip it up era. If you’re chasing more of a fashion-"x however, #ueen Vivienne is always happy to provide. It may not be the King’s Road original, but Westwood’s $agship store in Piccadilly still or bet-ter still the wonky $oored shop in Worlds End stocks clothes with the same edge and aesthetic as the gar-ments traded in SEX over thirty years ago. Yes, it may be hidden in the back-streets of Shoreditch or buried inside a windowless basement, but punk is still out there, ready to be seen, shred-ded and worn.

KATE FRENCH38 | S/S Bespoke

PICK OF THE BEST: UNION JACK. CELEBRATE THE DIAMOND JUBI-LEE IN RED WHITE AND BLUE...

!e Sex Pistol’s ‘God Save !e #ueen’ became an anthem of the punk move-ment. It expressed anger young people felt toward the constraints of an

oppressive traditional establish-ment. !e Union Jack was turned

on it’s head by Jamie Reid’s shock-ing graphics for !e Sex Pistols and

while his iconic imagery still reigns supreme, fashion in the 21st century means you don’t have to tear up to make a style statement.

1. Alexander Mc#ueen scarf £445 2. River Island holdall £39.99, 3. Top-shop jumper £46, 4. Body Jewlellery.com belt buckle £4, 5. Jonathan Aston at mytights.com £12.25, 6.Schuh kit-ten heels £55, 7. Accessorize ring £6, , 8. Religion Jeans £65, 9. Jimmy Choo slippers £495

KEELY GARDNER39 | S/S Bespoke

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I WANNA BE SEDATED...

Primark

els own

Stylists own

Retro

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THINKING

For a movement that declared itself an anarchistic, two-"nger salute to conformity and was once bent on destroying the fashion industry itself, punk has had its fair share of fashion-able moments. From dog-collars sold at Seditonaires to Mc#ueen’s skull-print scarves, the movement and its un-apologetic attitude has always been di'cult to ignore and has cer-tainly kept the fash-ion industry fuelled with inspiration.!e #ueen Mother of punk, Vivienne Westwood and her partner Malcolm McLaren de"ned the trend from their King’s Road boutique SEX in 1974. !e store sold bondage wear and slogan t-shirts featuring a range of crudely phrased statements; something that Westwood then revis-ited back in 2006 with her controver-sial ‘I’m not a terrorist’ t-shirts.Like most subcultures, it couldn’t stay underground for long. Zandra Rho-des used the punk aesthetic in her

designs, bringing a ‘punk-luxe’ look to the covers of Vogue. A%er she in-troduced more polished alternatives than rusty studs and second-hand pins, celebrities and consumers were quick to take note. !e punk details used by Rhodes "l-tered down to Elizabeth Hurley, an insult to the movement in its entirety, whose dress and dignity were held

together by safety pins. !e "rst successfully, the latter not so much. !e Versace dress that thrust the model and her chest into the spotlight was put up for auction a%er being deemed the ‘best red car-pet gown of all time’.

Punk’s anti-establishment attitude and love of red tartan was shared with designer Alexander Mc-#ueen, who gave a salute to punk in his "nal collection for his secondary line McQ before his death in 2010. Although designer’s re-interpreta-tions of the trend o%en appear deriva-tive, Mc#ueen’s interpretations, as usual, were anything but.

PUNK DESIGN MOMENT...

Whether you like it or not, it seems designers aren’t quite ready to stop rehashing the trend. With Pam Hogg and #ueen Westwood planning new collections, Rei Kawakubo sending Johnny !under look-alikes storm-ing down the catwalks for her latest

S/S collection and alternative cover-girl Alice Dellal fronting Chanel’s Spring handbag campaign, punk looks to have many more anti-fashion moments to come. So long as there is conformity to face and we all still have two "ngers, punk will never die.

KATE FRENCH

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POSH PUNK PRINCESS...

She is heiress to a Brazilian property tycoon and part of the all-girl Gos-pel/Lyrical/Punk band, !rush Met-al, who also started their own record label, Sweet Dick Music. She’s practi-cally never spotted wearing anything other than her trademark punk-rock uniform Dr Martens and her beauty regime pretty much consists of a hell of a lot of black kohl. She is not quite what you might expect to "nd among glossy fashion pages, more likely in the tabloids alongside a DVD case covered in a thick, white powder. But it turns out that despite or maybe be-cause of her bad girl image designers seem to be drawn to her.!rough her association with Next Model Management Dellal "rst gained exposure as Mario Testino photographed her for a French Vogue editorial in 2003. Since then the tom-boy model has done a Burberry cam-paign, appeared in British Elle with the Kings of Leon, replaced Kate Moss as the new face (or body) of Agent Provocateur, graced the cover of i-D and Dazed & Confused and

walked for Valentino Couture. Dellal’s tattoo’s and half-shaved head have worked in her favour in a fashion world constantly looking for some-thing as explosive and new as punk was. Chanel has tapped into this un-conventional and previously unfore-seen muse to promote the launch of their Spring Boy handbag collection. !e campaign is regarded as the per-fect blend of Chanel glamour and the model rocker’s fashion sense. In fact, the campaign showcases Dellal featur-ing sporty dreadlocks and her trade-mark leather and ripped "shnets. Karl Lagerfeld who is known for his eclectic casting in the handbag cam-paigns “had a crush on this unique, charismatic young lady, who is both a model and musician, during a photo shoot several months ago,” stated Chanel. Alice Dellal represents the perfect incar-nation of all that is unique about the Boy Chanel handbag collection, which strives to be far from conform-ist notions of femininity.”

Alice Dellal bangs drums, so how did she become a designer’s dream muse?

Following in the footsteps of Chanel is non-other than Marc Jacobs. !e designer has hired Dellal to star alongside blond male model Erik An-dersson for his Spring Summer Marc by Marc Jacobs ad just one month af-ter she signed with Chanel. !is move makes a change from the sweetness and light of teenager Elle Fanning who fronted his last campaign. Del-

lal has however reined in her bad ass attitude with some rather girly frocks and pencil skirts making for a creative punk style contrast in the images shot by Juergen Teller.So now it’s con"rmed, the fashion world "nally agrees with the punk rock style of Alice Dellal and some-thing tells me she might have to put that music career on hold.

KEELY GARDNER

AN INVENTORY OF PUNK...‘Punk is not dead’ is a music and fash-ion cliché. But the heritage of the punk movement can’t be reduced to studded leather jacket, Mohawks and a rough sound. It means a bit more….and here’s a bit more about punk to be going on with…..DIY: the best answer to money prob-lems. Self-published magazines, self-recorded albums, self-styled out"ts are all good ways to go DIY. And of course in the 21st Century a combi-nation of retromania and rejection of materialism has made modern day punks realise we are more than pup-pets, we can use our own hands by ourselves.Utopia: anarchy is the most utopic concept ever, born from a movement that aimed to change the real world. But utopia is also useful to lead ideas to their concrete form. Rebellion cannot last forever, otherwise it be-comes mere destruction, rebellion must be constructive, but there is no rebellion without a bit of utopic ide-als. Find them and feel inspired…Status #uo: when things don’t work, something has to be done, it is simple. Stand up, raise your voice, and try to challenge authority. Today these

things are done without a cause and they just enforce the status quo: get back to the meaning behind. Why don’t you..?Individual among Individuals: before punk it was all about ‘us’. Now it is all about ‘me’. Punk got things sorted out and it’s hilarious that one of the most rebellious of rebellions was based on such a balanced principle.Beauty: there is not such thing like beauty, there are many beauties. Punk beauty was a non-beauty, a more-than-beauty, the cult of social rubbish in opposition to the neat and clean cliché. It was good for a change, some-thing to keep in mind, not to copy. Reinventing Identity: things stay the same, become old, and lose original-ity… what a bore! Punk soon became a mass phenomenon, which of course contradicted the quintessence of punk. Punk was lost its punkiness; it was got dull, and turned into every-thing it stood against. !en came evolution, the music developed, the style developed, the movement split up and punk got back to individual-ity. Back to the future where punk can still mix things up.

SARA BELLINI

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THE NEW MIDLIFE CRISIS: BODY ART...I met a very interesting woman when I lived in Blackpool; she had just turned forty and decided that it was time that she got her "rst tattoo: a rather large vine leave across her right arm and chest. !e I.T technician told me that she "nally felt like her body was her own, mainly because her mother had forbidden her to get any body art when she was younger. Following the thrill of getting her "rst tattoo, she decided to jump on a new trend and get a couple of dermal anchors embedded inside the vine leaves: it looked pretty insane, espe-cially because of her age. For a while, I thought she must have been having some sort of midlife cri-sis but a%er keeping my eyes open and asking around friends and family, it seemed to be an actual trend: adults getting their "rst tattoos and pierc-ings around the ripe old age of forty.Camden is a well-known place to go for piercing and tattooing, so I ven-tured there to "nd out just how com-mon midlife body art really is. !e

tattooist at ‘Chrome’ described how ‘it is common for the middle aged to get their "rst tattoos a%er the age of thirty, usually of their children’s names or to remember their parents who have recently died.’ One of the female pierce artists told me that is was ‘quite rare for over for-ties to be getting their "rst piercing, but not unusual for them to be get-ting new and unique body jewellery.’One of my closest friends, Eleanor, got her "rst tattoo when she turned eighteen, pretty standard by all ac-counts, but her Mother, aged forty two, said, ‘only if I can get my "rst tat-too with you.’ O& they went and got inked, an exact copy of Cher Lloyd’s tattoo ‘pocket full of dreams’ for El-eanor, and her two daughters initials for Mummy.A month later and Eleanor’s Mum did what any teenager would do and want more, this time following in the foot-steps of her younger daughter Abbie, and got a surface piercing in her arm.

KAREN MCCANN

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GUESS WHAT? ROYALTY SUR-VIVED THE PUNK EXPLOSION

AFTER ALL...

Back in ’77 the UK Punk movement played with some of the most em-blematic royal symbols trashing their sacred meaning forever.Punk worldwide has always been about kicking against the main stream. It rejected massive consump-tion, brands, fashion as a system, and of course, the big fat powerful institu-tion that ruled them all - the Govern-ment. Anarchy in the UK manifested because it had a lot to rebel against…. but that of course was back in the day. When !e Sex Pistols launched their single ‘God save the #ueen’ in 1977 in the Silver Jubilee year, controversy quickly mounted. !is was exactly what Malcolm McClaren wanted. !e BBC refused to play it. !e Brit-ish National Anthem had fallen in rebel hands, and never sounded un-touchable again.!e "gure of the lion, present in the Royal Coat of Arms of the United Kingdom has been used in several

album covers, such as the one pub-lished in 1980 by !e Sound, ‘From the lion’s mouth’, or ‘!row them to the lions’ by Baseball Furies. It was also the name of an iconic punk pub, the ‘Red Lion’, from where several legendary videos were recorded and big music deals arranged. Ironically enough for the punk culture, a Mc Donald’s ‘drive thru’ is found nowa-days right on the same spot.And what about Tartan? !e fabric so visually associated to the punk ward-robe, wrapped around the body with safety pins, is historically a strong aristocratic pattern. First worn by the Scottish warriors, it has always re-mained close to the English heritage. It still is and has probably gained a few fans since punk appropriated it. Well-done Vivienne!At the end of the day, this is the post-punk era. !e 21st Century is when the Establishment dances to the street style rhythm, bending its rigid struc-

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VALENTINA LEON

-ture to create a whole new melody. Punk didn’t destroy the monarchy or tradition…. just mixed it up a bit….

and made it something everyone can wear on their sleeve…. rip it up if you dare.

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WEAR YOUR FLAG THE RISE OF THE UNION

JACK’S FASHION MOMENT!In a pre-Olympics mood every na-tion tends to be more patriotic. !ey are more forgiving if someone wants to start a new trend wearing national colours on the high street. But the one nation who does not need to "nd an excuse to dress in its colours from tip to toe is of course the Olympic host country: Great Britain.It has been more than 200 years since the crosses of St George, Andrew and Patrick combined to make up what we know as the Union Jack. Over decades the $ag was only used for showing patriotism, straightforward emblems of British values and of course its territory. Suddenly, the 60s came along with the music movement known as the British Invasion with wildly popular bands like !e Who. !ey frequently used Union Jack as their own logos and out"ts making it an unquestioned fashion icon.It took only ten years for the under-ground culture trying to question the unquestioned. !ey shredded and safety pinned the $ag, and Jamie Reid took the lead with clipping the #ueen’s eyes just in time for her Silver

Jubilee.For her Diamond Jubilee, British rebels smile ironically on Union Jack out"ts. It is everywhere from high street to high end couture. !e Twit-ter generation (for whom Geri Halli-well’s Union Jack dress and the Van-ity Fair cover with Liam Gallagher and Patsy Kensit under the Union Jack duvet cover is history) chats con-stantly about their newest Union Jack discoveries.!e Italian designer Kinder Aggugini said once the reason for the Union Jack’s immortality in fashion might be its “brilliant conceiving” of “13 sections” which makes designers able to play with colours and pattern.!at was exactly what Stella McCa-rtney did with Team GB Olympic uniforms. !e wavy, unconventional Union Jack is fresh, sporty and posh but still recognizable as the national $ag. So Her Majesty can relax as this year subversion is out of question, people only wear red-white-blue to show their fashion sense and patrio-tism. With a twist of course.

SULA JANCSO

THOUGHT FOR THE DAY: DO WE AGREE WITH VIVIENNE WESTWOOD’S LATEST EX-

PLOSIVE TIRADE?

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“People have never looked so ugly as they do today. We just consume fartoo much ...I’m talking about all this disposable crap,” - Vivienne Westwood.Vivienne Westwood, Œ!e Grande Dame of Design( is well known for shocking her audience, be it with her words or with her clothes. !is latest quotewas uttered a%er showing her A/W collection for 2012. Westwood, who came to fame duringBritain’s Punk revolution in the 1970s, said the clothes for her latest collection had been inspired by Britons’ ability to confront harsh economic times with imagination and devil-may-care dar-ing. A bit like back in the glory days of punk then).Is she right? Have we lost all sense of style to consumerism? I decided to investigate on a typical high street.!e "rst things I(ve noticed are Top-shop Girls. Although Topshop isindeed a store for the stylish young

lady, it seems to have become a store for EVERY young lady. Having worked at Topshop, I have witnessed this phenomenon over and over again. !e same girls buy the same things, and their friends follow suit until what we(re le% with is legions of young women wearing the same thing.When did it become ok to wear leg-gings as trousers with a crop top? Usuallyaccompanied by Ugg boots, a gi-let and a messy bun, this trend has seemed to spread like a virus through-out Britain(s teenage population. I(d like to knowwho is responsible for this obscenity, this is not style, and this is, as West-wood said, disposable crap. Primark has undoubtedly exacerbated this Situation.However it seems there is hope for us yet. Brick Lane and the streets of Camden and Spital"elds are teem

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ing with young, truly stylish people. Go online and spend hours people watching on !e Sartoralist site and get inspired.Hand-picked, gorgeous vintage piec-es and incredible hand cra%ed jewelry go hand in hand to create something fresh: if you peek outside of Oxford

Street you’ll "nd something worth looking at. Loads of young people have captured a new zeitgeist of what it is to be fashionable in London and it(s got nothing to do with Primark. So fear not, Dame Westwood, all is not lost.

MAX HORTON

1977: PUNK THEN AND NOW

!roughout the generations punk has made its mark on society. 40 years ago anarchy announced itself by stomping boots and yelling as loud as possible, but today it’s still around in$uencing 21st century sub cultures. Beginning mid 1970’s in America and England, underground New York was to home bands such as the New York Dolls,

Ramones, Blondie and !e Velvet Underground but in England it was a chance for youths that felt alienated to lash out at the government in the times of industrial Britain and a time when the UK music scene was boom-ing and the world was taking notice.!e likes of Bernie Rhodes and Mal-colm McLaren were to manage two

ALEX STEFANI

of the most in$uential bands- the Sex Pistols and !e Clash, and there are many more from the $edgling scene that are still remembered today and continue to inspire, such as Siouxsie and !e Banshees and !e Slits. In a society growing with ferocity in style and a need for freedom to speak your mind- whether in voice or spray paint, punk was a movement with meaning beyond just the sound. It was what you did with it that counted. In ’77 everyone wanted rebellion and anar-

chy, and a strong punk contingent had strong beliefs based around socialism and non-conformity; ideas that still resonant with musical youth today. !ere is music that is still made to be shocking, in keeping with original aims - bands such as Flogging Molly, Dropkick Murphy’s, Death Grips, Rancid and Mis"ts are all children of punk. With the 35th anniversary edition of ‘Never Mind !e Bollocks’ coming out this summer it’s clear that Punk has still got the gi% of the gob.

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WHAT’S THE MOST PUNK-ISH REBELLIOUS THING YOU HAVE EVER DONE?! Took my parent’s BMW sports car, drove to Manchester and partied hard, on their money. - MAX HORTON.

As the government raise the price of cigarettes to try and make me stop, I’ve decide to start smoking more - KEELY GARDNER.

A true punk, never reveals her secrets - JOANNA ZAMBAS.

Running riot through school with my year 11 peers while lessons were still going on. We customised our uniforms and came into school late, bearing in mind we attended an all-girls convent school with strict rules- it was like St.Trinians all over again - SHANICE BRYCE.

I used to sneak out to raves when I was about 16 and say to my mum I was at my friends houses - CAMEO WEEKES.

If I told you, I’d have to kill you - TERRY NEWMAN.

! e most rebellious thing I’ve ever done was probably sneaking backstage at a concert. Not the most wild/rebellious thing to do, but it got my adrenaline going - LEAH SINCLAIR

! e most punkish/rebellious thing i have ever done was get a tattoo, which doesn’t seem bad at all but to my parents it was he worst thing i could ever have done, my dad actually cried – VICTORIA RITCHER-HART