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BFW November-December 2015

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Indian Magazine on Cosmetics, Beauty, Perfumery.
56
& FASHION WORLD b e au ty Style Speak! BEAUTILICIOUS! www.beautyfashionworld.in BOOSTING SALON BUSINESS the trends! Cosmo AESTHETICS COSMETICS HAIRDRESSING NAILS | | | Skin You! & COSMETIC SURGERY IN SALONS SUCCESS STORY OF COSMOPROF ASIA 2015 SHOW REPORT November-December 2015
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Page 1: BFW November-December 2015

& FASHION WORLD

beauty

StyleSpeak!

BEAUTILICIOUS!

www.beautyfashionworld.in

BOOSTINGSALONBUSINESS

the

trends!Cosmo

AESTHETICSCOSMETICS HAIRDRESSING NAILS| | |

SkinYou! &

COSMETICSURGERY INSALONS

SUCCESS STORY OF COSMOPROF ASIA 2015

SHOWREPORT

November-December 2015

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Printed, Published & Owned by Amrita Kanwar. Published at D 182, PR House, Anand Vihar, Delhi 110 092 and Printed at Chandu Press, 63, Patparganj, Delhi. Editor : Amrita Kanwar

www.beautyfashionworld.in

beauty& FASHION WORLD

AESTHETICSCOSMETICS HAIRDRESSING NAILS| | |

Indian Cosmetic Market Outlook

The rising beauty concerns among both men and women are propelling the Indian cosmetics industry, which has witnessed a strong growth in the last few years. The country’s cosmetic sector has, in fact, emerged as one of the markets holding immense growth potential. New product launches catering to consumers’ growing requirements will fuel growth in the industry, for which the future outlook seems exceptionally bright. According to our latest research report, the Indian cosmetics market registered impressive sales worth INR 264.1 Billion in 2011, and with rising purchasing power and growing fashion consciousness, the industry is estimated to expand at a CAGR of around 17% during 2013-2015.

Our recent market research report, "Indian Cosmetic Market Outlook 2018", portrays the current and future scenario of cosmetic industry in India. As per our research findings, cosmetics market, once female dominated, has started earning high revenues from male counterparts as well, by catering to male-specific needs especially in creams and lotions. The revenue generated through male cosmetic market has increased the total revenue of Indian cosmetic industry.

Herbal cosmetic products are increasing foothold in the Indian cosmetics industry with the growing demand for natural products and awareness about their benefits among the population. As per our analysis, it is expected that this high demand will be lead by Southern India, as the region is more inclined towards home-made natural cosmetic products.

The Indian cosmetic industry has seen rapid strides over the past few years. With the development of cosmetic industry in the country, there has been influx of many international brands. The entry of more number of cosmetic brands in the Indian market has also been provoked by growing demand of branded products among people due to aggressive advertising strategies of players coupled with immense western influence. New product launches catering to consumers' growing requirements are also fuelling growth in the industry, carving bright prospects for the industry in the future.

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YOUR PARTNERFOR PROFESSIONAL BEAUTICIANS

MALU WILZBeauté

FIND OUT MORE:www.maluwilz.de · www.american-nails.com

Visit us at COSMOPROF ASIA HONG KONG 11 - 13 November · Booth 1E - L3C

MADE IN GERMANY

LIMITEDEDITION

MALU WILZ Beauté is a German skin care and color cosmetics brand. It offers professional high-quality products to support and regenerate the skin from the inside and an exclusive, long-lasting decorative line to underline your beauty on the outside. MALU WILZ Beauté is the brand of choice for beauty professi-onals and make up artists around the world.

Get to know the MALU WILZ Beauté products and find the best skin care program for a beautiful and healthy complexion. From products with highly-effective hyaluronic acid, which deeply moisturize the skin, to regeneration cream and an elixir with particles of pure gold – you can find the perfect match for your needs.

The color cosmetics line by MALU WILZ Beauté offers the perfect balance between timeless beauty accessories and an always up to date color palette, inspired by the fashion metropolises of the world. Extremely long-lasting, with optimal skin tolerance and easy application - experience quality made in Germany!

AMERICAN NAILS, one of the first providers of professional sculpted-nail pro-ducts in Germany, has more than 30 years of experience.

This solid expertise is reflected in every AMERICAN NAILS product. All of our products are constantly being reworked and further developed. The highest quality standards form the basis for easy-to-use products that are very long-las-ting. There is only one product we couldn’t improve on: our 1- PHASE GEL, a favorite among nail designers. Whether you are a professional or a beginner, this gel is suitable for everyone.

Our range only includes the products you really need for ultra-professional work. With a clearly organized, price-conscious range, we focus on the products that you use in your studio every day. All customer requests can be fulfilled quickly and easily, because your time is valuable. An on-trend color palette helps you offer your customers the variety they want to see from your studio.

Our extensive training programs help you access the exciting world of nail design through our basic seminars. Workshops and further education seminars help you deepen your technical knowledge, focus on a specialization, and expand your treatment offerings in a lucrative way.

As part of the well-kown german ARTDECO Cosmetic Group,

MALU WILZ Beauté and AMERICAN NAILS guarantees you long-term success at the highest level.

Beauty & Fashion World | Cosmoprof Asia HK 2015 | 4

COSMOPROF ASIAThe Cosmoprof Asia is the most important trade fair for our two brands MALU WILZ Beauté GmbH and American Nails GmbH, in order to find new partners to work with in the asian countries but also elsewhere internationally.

MALU WILZ Beauté is a German skin care and color cosmetics brand. It offers professional high-quality products to support and regenerate the skin from the inside and an exclusive, long-lasting decorative line to underline your beauty on the outside. MALU WILZ Beauté is the brand of choice for beauty professionals and make up artists around the world.

Get to know the MALU WILZ Beauté products and find the best skin care program for a beautiful and healthy complexion. From products with highly-effective hyaluronic acid, which deeply moisturize the skin, to regeneration cream and an elixir with particles of pure gold – you can find the perfect match for your needs.

The color cosmetics line by MALU WILZ Beauté offers the perfect balance between timeless beauty accessories and an always up to date color palette, inspired by the fashion metropolises of the world. Extremely long-lasting, with optimal skin tolerance and easy application - experience quality made in Germany!

Malu Wilz Beauté presented its full basic assortment of the skin care and color cosmetics line. Additionally, novelties of both segments were presented, of which the trendsetting innovative Brightening Caviar line, which enables to light up the skin and treat it at the same time, becoming a bestseller on the Asian market. Rose Rendezvous and Caviar Gold, already being bestsellers for MALU WILZ assortment, were enthusiastically received by new potential partners.

Our newly launched High Cover Foundation and Concealer Promotion, being a make up with high coverage, but easy to apply, was a highlight in the color cosmetics line to present at the show.With an exceptionally wide color palette of nail lacquers in professional quality, our newest brand American Nails attracted several prospective customers. Besides the floor display showing more than 60 colors, American Nails offered its professional product range of nail care.

Further information available at:MALU WILZ Beauté GmbH, Marketing/Michaela BaduraGaußstr. 11, 85757 München-Karlsfeld. Tel.: 08131/390 360, [email protected] www.facebook.com/maluwilzcompany

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Evolva Holding SA announces

the successful completion of

the first part of its R&D

collaboration with L’Oréal. The

parties have agreed to move into

the next phase of the multi-year

program.

Under this collaboration, which

started in February 2014, Evolva and

L’Oréal are applying Evolva’s

innovative fermentation technology

to develop a yeast strain optimized

for sustainable and cost-effective

production of a strategically

important cosmetics ingredient.

With the completion of the first work

package, Fabien Cabirol, L’Oreal’s

new Global Head of Biotechnolo-

gies Department, said “With this

partnership L’Oréal aims to leverage

on Evolva strong technological

platform to develop innovative

cosmetic ingredients with perceiv-

able performance and measurable

sustainability benefits.

L’Oréal in-house expertise com-

bined with Evolva flexible yeast

platform opens opportunities to

meet the needs

and aspirations of consumers”.

Evolva CEO Neil Goldsmith said.

“We are pleased to have demon-

strated to L’Oréal our capabilities,

and the strength and elegance of

our platform”.

About Evolva

Evolva is one of the global leaders in

sustainable, fermentation-based

approaches to ingredients for

health, wellness and nutrition.

Evolva’s products include stevia,

vanilla, saffron and resveratrol. As

well as developing its own

proprietary ingredients, Evolva also

deploys its technology for partners,

providing them with a competitive

edge and sharing in the returns they

make.

Evolva & L’OréalSUCCESSFULLY COMPLETE FIRST STAGE OF INNOVATIVE COSMETICS INGREDIENT PROJECT

About L’Oréal

L’Oréal has devoted itself to beauty for over 105 years. With its unique

portfolio of 28 international, diverse and complementary brands, the Group

generated sales amounting to 23 billion euros in 2013 and employs 77,500

people worldwide. As the world’s leading beauty company, L’Oréal is

present across all distribution networks: mass market, department stores,

pharmacies and drugstores, hair salons, travel retail and branded retail.

Research and innovation, and a dedicated research team of 3,600 people,

are at the core of L’Oréal’s strategy, working to meet beauty aspirations all

over the world and attract one billion new consumers in the years to come.

L’Oréal’s new sustainability commitment for 2020 “Sharing Beauty With All”

sets out ambitious sustainable development objectives across the Group’s

value chain.

Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2015 | 5

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HANDHELD DEVICE LAUNCHEDFOR TREATMENT OF SKINSchick Medical has released a handheld device used to treat various skin conditions.

The device, Sqoom clinical, is used in conjunction with a range of gels which Schick claim aid skin issues such aspsoriasis, rosacea, neurodermatitis and acne.

The device is said to work by using a magnetic field and ultrasound combination alongside restorative gels that aregently massaged into the skin via one million vibrations per second. The company claim that through

the vibrations, gel penetrates the upper skin layers and travels through to the dermis. “The ingredients of the gel canbe introduced into the deeper layers of the skin where they are needed.

Ordinary crèmes and gels applied to the skin-surface cannot penetrate into the deeper layers and are therefore verylimited in their effects,” said Dr Helmut Christ, an internal medicine specialist who pioneered the Sqoom clinicaldeveloping process.

According to Schick Medical, the energy created by the ultrasound and cosmetic waves causes the particles of skinto vibrate and rotate within the tissue at a far greater level, resulting in increased cell circulation. With three differentprogramme levels, the device has been developed to treat various skin types, such as gentle treatment of sensitiveskin. Schick also claim the device can treat the pain of fractures to the tibia, distal radius and long tubular bones.

s k i n | c a r e

6 | November-December 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

COSMETICS SURGERY IN SALONS

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Beauty & Fashion World | Cosmoprof Asia HK 2015 | 4

R

Makes doing nails so much easier.

Animal cruelty free. Made in the U.S.A.

@minimanimoonails#messnomore Mini Mani Moo /minimanimooominimanimoo.com

Page 8: BFW November-December 2015

The BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH anniversary eventsuccessfully came to a close on Sunday. All threeexhibition halls in Riem were filled to capacity with

more than 1,000 exhibitors and brands, equating to awhopping 20 percent increase. BEAUTY FORUMMUNICH also equalled last year’s outstanding visitorfigures, registering a total of 40,000 this year. In addition,both the Anti-Aging Congress and Podiatry Congresswere completely sold out. The shows and champion-ships were also at the heart of the action. While starmake-up artist Horst Kirchberger and the Munich HairAcademy rocked the stage on Saturday, Sunday sawCatherine Nail Collection present an impressive fashionshow featuring alternative model Myriam von M. andactress Natascha Ochsenknecht.

Award winners were also selected in the 28th Interna-tional Masters Award Make-up, 28th European MastersAward Nail Design, 11th BEAUTY FORUM BodypaintingTrophy, 29th German Make-up Championship, 7thWorldCup NailArt and 3rd International Lashes Trophy.

BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2015 was the 30th anniversaryevent. The trade fair attracts trade visitors from beautysalons and the cosmetics industry, massage parlours andpedicure salons, the field of podiatry, nail studios,hairdressers, pharmacies, retail and the hotel industry.Notable is the high percentage of international guests. Anew feature this year was the interactive hall plan with anexhibitor list (also for mobile devices), which made itmucheasier to find exhibitors.

The next BEAUTY FORUM trade fair in Germany is the 6thBEAUTY FORUM Leipzig, which will take place on 23/24April 2016 at the Leipzig trade fair grounds.www.beautyfairs.de/leipzig/

OrganiserDomiciled in Ettlingen near Karlsruhe, Health and BeautyGermany GmbH is a leading organiser of beauty caretrade fairs and is also a licensor and think tank for new,successful trade fair concepts that are implementedinternationally.

www.beauty-fai rs.dewww.beauty-forum.com

More than 1,000 exhibitors and brands at theBEAUTY FORUM MUNICHHELD ON 17/18 OCTOBER ON THETRADE FAIR GROUNDS IN RIEM/CONGRESSES SOLD-OUT/IMPRESSIVEVISITOR NUMBERS

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The Paris-headquartered firm has invested about Rs 10bn in manufacturing and research facilities so far in India.

It aims to make India a top leading five markets in the coming years with anaim to generate Rs 7bn revenue by the end of 2020.

L'Oreal India managing director Jean-Christophe Letellier was quoted by PTIas saying: "Our R&I centres in Mumbai and Bangalore are working onsustainable innovation to meet our target of reducing carbon emissions by60 per cent at our plants and distribution centres by 2020."

Further, the firm is looking to lessen the gap between hygiene relatedproducts with the treatment and care range segments as the country holdsdeep roots in natural and herbal products.

It also aims to grow its presence in the booming men's grooming sectionover the last few years.

"Men's grooming and skincare is booming, and we expect fast growth in thiscategory to continue in the next decade," Letellier. The company's brandssuch as Garnier are doing well in the Tier II and Tier III markets and arerelatively growing year by year. It has made available shampoos, face washesand hair colours in sachets, a concept that has grown popular in thecountry.

L'Oréal is bolstering its R&D unit in India to cater to Southeast Asia'sgrowing demand for the hair care and male grooming products

Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2015 | 13

BOOSTING SALON BUSINESS

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Certain ingredients in cosmeceuticals may help clear up acne and makeyour skin look younger. Get the scoop on the pros and cons ofcommon cosmeceutical ingredients.

Who doesn’t love a moisturizer with a luxurious feel? And wouldn’t it begreat if it also made your skin look clearer or younger? That’s the promise ofcosmeceuticals.

“Cosmeceuticals try to bridge the gap between what you can get at thecosmetic counter and what you can get at a pharmacy,” says Suzan Obagi,MD, president of the Cosmetic Surgery Foundation and associate professorof dermatology and director of the Cosmetic Surgery and Skin Health Centerat the University of Pittsburgh.

Prescription medications are designed to work very effectively, but oftenthey don’t have the elegance or feel of over-the-counter moisturizers.They’re also not typically tailored to different skin types, Dr. Obagi says. Butcosmeceuticals are good quality products that effectively make your skinlook younger while being tailored for dry, oily, or combination skin.

Here are some common ingredients in cosmeceuticals and what you canexpect from them.

Hydroxy AcidsMoisturizers that contain hydroxyacids, such as alpha hydroxy acids(AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids(BHAs), help to exfoliate the outerlayer of dead skin cells, Obagi says.

The most common AHAs areglycolic and lactic acid, but othersinclude citric acid, hydroxycaprylicacid, and hydroxycapric acid.Salicylic acid is the most commonlyavailable BHA, adds Obagi. Somecosmeceuticals combine bothAHAs and BHAs.

You can find these types ofcosmeceuticals at the drugstore.Obagi suggests choosing a brandthat has a large research anddevelopment department to backup the quality of the product, such

Cosmeceuticals: Combining MoisturizersWith Antioxidants

as Neutrogena, Revlon, Aveeno, and

Oil of Olay.Pros: Hydroxy acids help keep thesurface of skin smooth and unclogpores, which helps improve acne.And when you use a moisturizerwith a hydroxy acid in the morning, itenables other products you put onthroughout the day, such as anti-aging creams and serums, to betterpenetrate your skin, Obagi says.Salicylic acid, in particular, is verygood at penetrating the skin andimproving acne.

Cons: AHAs can be irritatingbecause they’re more acidic thansalicylic acid, Obagi explains. For thatreason, you may experience stingingwhen you use them. People whohave rosacea tend to do better with

14 | November-December 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

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salicylic acid, she adds. Hydroxyacids also make your skin moresensitive to the sun, so it’s importantto wear sunscreen if you’re usingthis cosmeceutical. People whohave photosensitive disorders suchas lupus should avoid hydroxy acidsaltogether, Obagi says.Antioxidants and Vitamins

There are a host of moisturizers onthe market with added vitamins andantioxidants. Antioxidants help yourskin by counteracting the effect offree radicals, which cause inflamma-tion and can lead to prematurelyaging skin and skin cancer. Theseproducts may contain C, D, E, andB-complex vitamins.

Pros: Vitamin C serum is part of agood anti-aging regimen and caneffectively prevent wrinkles and agespots. However, Obagi recom-

mends buying a serum sold in yourdermatologist’s office because lessexpensive drugstore brands may notwork as well.

Cons: Vitamin C is the only vitaminthat’s known to benefit the skinwhen it’s applied topically, Obagisays, so it’s not necessary to buyother moisturizers with vitamins orantioxidants. It’s better to get thoseantioxidant vitamins in your diet andthrough supplements. In addition,vitamin E is a known allergen, sothere is a risk of an allergic reaction ifyou use a product that contains it,she says.

Retinoids, which are derivatives ofvitamin A, have been shown toreduce fine lines and wrinkles,smooth out the skin, and help tofade age spots.

Pros: The prescription formula basedon the retinoid called tretinoin(Retin-A) is one of the best anti-aging regimens you can follow,Obagi says.

However, tretinoin is only availableby prescription and isn’t available asa cosmeceutical.Cons: True cosmeceuticals thatcontain retinoids aren’t as effectiveas the prescription drug, Obagi says.If you’re looking for help with anti-aging, this is one cosmeceutical toleave on the shelf in favor of theprescription.Peptides

Copper peptides, which arebuilding blocks for cell renewal, area new trend in cosmeceuticals.They’re touted as a powerful anti-aging ingredient that can help yourskin produce more collagen, making

it look younger and plumper.

Pros: Peptides have more of an allurebecause they promise what otherproducts don’t, Obagi says.Cons: However, there’s no researchthat has shown that peptides work.“The problem is that skin is a goodbarrier,” Obagi says so the copperpeptides in an expensive cream maynot even be able to penetrate thesurface.

The good news: Cosmeceuticals,such as the ones that containhydroxy acids and vitamin C, aregreat choices for your skin, Obagisays. Keep in mind that moisturizersdon’t perform miracles, but triedand true cosmeceuticals can offerthe benefits of healthier, younger-looking skin with the feel of aluxurious cream.

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Quadpack has launched itsfirst range of packsfocused on body

products: the 'Body Care Collec-tion'.

Applying its recognized expertise inskin care, this elegant compilation ofpackaging concepts offers all thesophistication and style of a high-end cosmetics range.

Quadpack Launches Body CareCollection

The Body Care Collection representsa kind of 'knowledge transfer',"explains Skin Care Category ManagerDavid Reguill. "Luxury skin carepackaging is one of our corestrengths at Quadpack. Body care,on the other hand, tends to belower masstige/mass market with acorresponding look and feel. That’swhy we decided to close the gapwith a new premium range, pouringall our know-how into a collectionthat effectively brings luxury spa

treatments into the home."The Body Care Collection comprisespackaging solutions for the ninemost popular treatments, from bodylotion to hair oil. Each pack featurescomponent parts carefully selectedfrom the most suitable manufactur-ers according to functionality,compatibility and aesthetics. Thefinished packs have each beentested at Quadpack's central testlaboratory to ensure an optimumconfiguration.

For the most prestigious brands,Quadpack can add components inaluminum and wood, the latter fromits own manufacturing facility atTechnotraf Wood Packaging. Thespecialist decoration services atKrampak are available if high-enddecoration is required."When you look at this collection, itis clear that it offers something morethan usual body care collections. Ithas an excellent price/performance,but the main differentiator here isquality. The Body Care Collection is

Quadpack Launches its Packaging RangeFocused on Body Care Products

on a different level. It's pure luxury", concludes Reguill.

Technotraf Wood Packaging and Krampak are Quadpack Group companies.

About Quadpack Group Quadpack is an international provider of enhancedpackaging solutions for beauty and skin care brand owners and contractfillers. With offices in the UK, France, Spain, Germany, Italy, Turkey, Australiaand the Far East, and a strategic network of manufacturing partners,Quadpack sources and develops customized packs for prestige, masstigeand mass market customers. Quadpack is a founding member of the AirlessPack Association.

packag ing|mat te r s

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Have you ever spent hours infront of the mirror trying toapply fake eyelashes, only

to end up with them sticking out atstrange angles, or—worse—fall offcompletely after a few hours?Because falsies are tricky to master,we tapped Los Angeles–basedmakeup artist Gia Brascia to show usher tried-and-true application (andremoval) tips.

1: Before you do anything else,measure the length of the lash tomake sure it fits your eye shape. Ifthe strip needs to be cut to fit, snipthe outer edge completely off withsmall nail scissors. This will avoiddrooping at the corner (meaning: nomore lashes poking your eyeball).

2: Take both edges of the lash andbend inward to create a “C” shape,and hold for a couple of seconds.That’s the best way to take out the

straightness and ensure it molds toour curved eye shape and stays putwithout the corners lifting up. Justthis alone will make the rest of theprocess effortless.

3: Apply a high-quality glue such asDUO Eyelash Adhesive for lastingresults (Brascia suggests avoidingthe glue that comes with yourlashes). If you have a steady hand,you can squeeze straight from thetube onto the strip. Tend to getshaky? An easy trick: put glue on thereverse (handle) end of a tweezerand glide it across the strip, aspictured. Be generous at both theinner and outer corners so the gluewon’t unstick when you blink.

4: Wait ten seconds or so for theglue to become more tactile andsticky (you can also blow on theglue or wave it gently in the air)before placing the lash. This is the

Beauty Basics: How to Apply False Lashesbest way to keep the strip fromslipping around while you’re tryingto line it up properly.

5: Aim for the base of your naturallash line, right on top of your reallashes, not touching the eyelid at all.The glue dries clear, so don’t worryif a little gets on your skin.

6: Once you’ve placed both lashes,you can do your mascara; this willhelp integrate the natural lashes withthe false ones.

7: If you see a gap showing on theeyelid between your real lashes andfalsies, don’t worry! You don’t haveto pull it off and start again, saysBrascia. Just fill in the gap, using amatte black eye shadow as a liner tohide it (we used Inglot CosmeticsFreedom System Eyeshadow in391). This step will also help theglue dry more quickly.

Removal Tips: Always remove falselashes before taking off rest of youreye makeup. First pre-soften theglue with a cotton swab that’s beensoaked in an oily makeup remover,like rms beauty Raw Coconut Cream.Dab the swab along the lash line toloosen the glue and break down itsstickiness. With your eye open, takehold of the lash at tip of the outercorner. Then close your eyes andvery slowly peel the strip away fromyour real lash, working from outer toinner corner—toward the nose.

b e a u t y | l i v e

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Natural skin care products maybe appealing if you want tolimit artificial ingredients and

chemicals in and on your body. Butare natural ingredients, which tendto increase prices, really better foryour skin?

You can't hide your skin, so youwant to take care of it. You want toput your best face forward — withclear, glowing, smooth, natural skin.You may even be willing to spendmore for skin care products thatboast better results because containnatural ingredients or are labeled"organic."

But what do those terms reallymean? Is the "natural" or "organic"label worth the extra weight of theprice tag — is it really any better foryour skin and for the environment?t all comes down to what you wantfrom your skin products and whatyour particular skin type needs.

Is Natural Better?

"When choosing between a naturalor organic product and one that'snot, it's helpful to think about what isimportant to you," says Kelly C.Nelson, MD, a dermatologist andassistant professor at Duke UniversitySchool of Medicine in NorthCarolina.Decide what you want to get out ofyour skin care products. Are you

looking for something that won'tirritate your skin, gives you betterresults and healthier skin, or has lessimpact on the environment? Do youwant a combination of all thoseelements?

"If you're in the market for a productthat's fragrance- or preservative-free,or presented with minimal orrecycled packaging, it may be easierto meet those criteria with a naturalor organic product," says Dr. Nelson.

But don't read too much into thelabels or make assumptions that maynot be true. Natural doesn't alwaysmean better, and natural ingredientsaren't necessarily safer or more likelyto provide better results.

"People with sensitive skin may optfor natural or organic products in anattempt to avoid skin allergicreactions, which may work, butsometimes doesn't," Nelson says.

If you're going to try a natural ororganic product, allow some time tosee if it really is compatible with yourskin and if it's worth the additionalprice. "Give any product at least amonth to determine if it meets your

needs, or less if your skin com-plains," says Nelson.

Specific Skin Products for SpecificSkin Types

If you're curious about whether aparticular natural ingredient is betterfor your skin, Nelson also suggestsjust figuring out what your skinneeds. It's also important tounderstand that you don't have tochoose natural (or more expensive)to get a good skin care product thatworks well with your skin.

"While oatmeal-containing productsdo help moisturize the skin, thereare many products that don'tcontain oatmeal that do a wonderfuljob, too," says Nelson. Soy hasbeen found in studies to improveelasticity and firmness of skin. "Soy-containing products can helpimprove pigment irregularities thatare associated with an agedappearance, but there are severalprescription and over-the-counterproducts that can do an even betterjob," she says. Many naturalingredients that are marketed asbetter for skin, including acai berry,green tea, olive oil, chamomile,

Are Natural Skin Care Products Better?pomegranate, and many more, needto be better studied and investi-gated in regard to their benefits toskin.

Studies also need to explore anypossible negative effects beforethese products can be said to workas well or better than non-naturalproducts.

Results from a less expensive non-natural product can be just as goodas from a natural product, and viceversa.

And you could still experience anallergic reaction from an ingredient ina natural skin care product, while anon-natural product for sensitiveskin may not trigger any reaction.

Natural products can be both veryeffective in promoting healthy skinand more environmentally friendly.But you don't have to choosenatural, organic, or expensive skincare products to find something thatworks well. What matters is findingskin care products that keep yourskin moisturized, glowing, andblemish-free, whether they’re naturalor not.

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Pruney fingers' maysound silly, butfinding out what'sbehind them isserious science.

If you’ve ever spent too much timein the pool, or if you like tounwind at the end of a hard day

with an hours-long soak in the tub,you’re probably familiar with the“pruney fingers” phenomenon.Believe it or not, scientists havebeen studying this raisin-like effectfor decades, trying to figure out whyyour hands (and sometimes yourfeet) get so wrinkly when wet.

One popular idea is that your skinsimply becomes waterlogged.According to the Library ofCongress, the epidermis, or outerlayer of skin, is made up of deadkeratin cells that absorb moisturewhen immersed in water for anextended period of time. This

absorption causes the cells to swell,but because they’re still connectedto the underlying tissue, which doesnot expand, the outer skin has towrinkle to compensate for its largersurface area. It’s a little like having aking-size sheet for a queen-sizemattress: The extra material hasnowhere to go, so it bunches upunevenly on top.

But why are only your fingers andtoes affected — why doesn’t yourentire body wrinkle? Scientists sayit’s because our hands and feethave the thickest epidermis and thusmore keratin cells to absorb water.(Your nails also contain keratin,which is why they may feel softerafter you do the dishes.)

Is There a Purpose to Pruning?

The problem with this hypothesis isthat it doesn’t really account for thefact that fingers and toes don’twrinkle when their nerve endingshave been severed, as by injury orcomplications from diabetes. Thiscan be explained by a different

theory, which proposes that theprune-like effect is due not to skinsaturation but to a reaction in thecentral nervous system — a “classicmechanics problem,” as ColumbiaUniversity biomechanical engineer XiChen, PhD, explained it to NatureNews.

The mechanics theory is based onthe idea of vasoconstriction, or thenarrowing of blood vessels.Basically, when fingers and toes areimmersed in hot or cold water,nerve endings fire off signals thatcause your blood vessels toconstrict and the tissue below yourskin’s surface to contract. This, inturn, forces the outermost layer ofskin to buckle, resulting in wrinkling.

But recent research suggests theremay be even more to wrinkly skinthan that. Evolutionary neurobiolo-gist Mark Changizi, PhD, and his teamat 2AI Labs in Boise, Idaho, areworking to prove their theory thatpruney fingers and toes are not justthe products of a dermatologicalquirk; rather, they’re the genetic

Why Do Your Fingers Prune Up After aBath?

equivalent of rain treads — thosefunctional grooves on all-weathertires and shoes that help withtraction in wet conditions.

Changizi believes that these so-called treads on hands and feet mayhave been built into DNA over theages to improve your grip.

“Our pruney fingers may be a crucialpart of our primate repertoire,” hewrote in an article for Forbes.com.“Once primates went the way offinger nails rather than claws, treadswere needed where claws mayhave sufficed before.”

To support this theory, Changizi andhis team analyzed pattern similaritiesin 28 photographs of pruney fingers.All 28 had wrinkles that formedvertical channels, which work todrain water away from fingertips.

“In order for a hand to reach out andgrip a wet surface without hydro-planing, it needs a way to efficientlyremove the water between the skinand the surface it is trying to grip,”he explained. “The best way toquickly move water tends to be viachannels, the stuff of arteries andrivers.”

More research is needed to proveChangizi’s hypothesis, but he’salready hard at work on follow-upstudies. Next on his list, accordingto Nature News: testing whetherwrinkles actually allow for better gripand looking into whether mammalsin wet climates are more likely to getpruney fingers than those in dryhabitats.

If the theory holds up, he says, wemay be able to use pruney fingers toimprove our existing tire and shoerain-tread technology.

“Far from an embarrassing mistake,”he wrote, “wet wrinkled fingers areyet another testament to biology’sbrilliance.”

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Our happy flower collection upcoming spring-/ summer 2015 is becoming bloomy-fresh! Colour combinations mirror the awakening attitude to

life which one can feel with the first mild sunrays coming out. Simple, but bold colours of the nature will be discovered new. A cool shade of

blue, fresh lemon-yellow, bright orange, soothing peach – nude or gaudy shades of pink and red. Are you keen for sun and fun? Show your

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West Michigan-based Amway, a direct selling company, has opened a new $25m manufacturing plant in Vietnam, one of the sixnew facilities company is set to open in 2015.

The 55,000m2 facility will be a home to select manufacturing operations for Nutrilite, a vitamin, mineral and dietary supplements brand.

Amway chairman Steve Van Andel said: "The opening of our second factory in Vietnam will help our distributors reach more customersand become even more successful. We're committed to the continued growth of Amway Vietnam and look forward to many moreyears of helping to improve the lives of our distributors and the communities where they work and live."

Based in Ho Chi Minh City, Amway began selling products in Vietnam in 2008. The company's first manufacturing facility is located in theDong Nai Province. It has 10 branches throughout the country, with about 450 employees and 300,000 distributors.

Amway Vietnam general director Leo Boon Wang said: "The substantial investment in building up a second factory in Binh Duongdemonstrates strongly our long-term commitment to Vietnam and our desire to play a part in contributing to the socio-economicgrowth of the country."

As a part of $332m global manufacturing expansion strategy the company has opened plants in India, China, Washington, California, andAda, near the company's headquarters.

Nivea, Beiersdorf-owned beauty brand, has been taken off from theEuropean travel retail and duty free market as mass market brands arestruggling to gain consumer attention as compared to luxury brands

in Europe.

The company intends to 'realign Nivea's travel retail business' after witnessinga tough period for the brand under the luxury-led duty free market.

Nivea stated: 'For the future, the focus of Nivea's travel retail business will liewith markets outside of Europe.'

Nivea Travel Retail was quoted by Globalcosmeticsnews.com as saying: "Thelast few years have shown, that the purchase behaviour of shoppers withinthe European travel environment is not yet as favourable for us (comparedwith) other regions of the world.

"After careful consideration, we have therefore decided to discontinue ouractivities in Europe." Even though there has been a conscious push withinthe market in the last one year, the brand will now be taken off Europeantravel retail and duty free market in favour of growing markets such as theMiddle East, North Africa and India.

The company states, "This different shopper-mix as well as the level ofdistribution and availability of Nivea ranges in the respective countries differsfrom that in Europe (where Nivea is extremely well distributed across all saleschannels)." This move, however, will not impact Beiersdorf's high-end brandLa Prairie. The plan will not affect jobs, the company stated.

CoverGirl, Physician Formula, Sally Hansen, and Wet n' Wild.

After uploading the picture of the user, the barcode of the desiredproduct is scanned through the smartphone, allowing the user tovirtually 'try on' products to check whether it suits the user or not.

Additionally, the app will enable users to save the looks and share themwith their friends through Facebook and Instagram.

The app features a computer algorithm that stores the properties andidentifies them by the SKU number, enabling consumers to scan and seehow they look in a particular shade, reported newsfirst.lk.

According to the app creators, Ruth Gal and Rami Orpaz, the technology iscapable of measuring skin tones and maps facial features, while it delivers95% accurate results.

An EZface statement on their website was quoted by iDigitalTimes assaying: "TryItOn analyses the areas in which the users apply makeup, definesthe makeup areas' pigments and blends them accurately with the product'sattributes.

"As a result, the makeup shades are applied accurately and realistically onthe users' images. These accurate results reduce purchase time and helpavoid any potential makeup letdowns."

Already launched in the US and featured in Rite Aid drugstores and Walmart,the app is expected to help stores reduce returns and wasted inventory.

Israel’s EZface launchesnew app to test cosmeticproducts before purchase

Nivea pulled out ofEuropean travel retail andduty free market

Amway opens $25m manufacturing facility in Vietnam

26 | November-December 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

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The slowdown of economy has scarred the US beauty and personalcare packaging market as sales dropped in 2011, according to a studyby Companies & Markets.

The US beauty and personal care packaging market has experienced unitvolume sales decrease by 1%, falling to 11.6 billion units in 2011, states thereport.

According to the market researcher, the precarious economic environmenthas had an impact on consumers' approach to buy beauty and personalcare products, causing the packaging market to be adversely impacted,reported cosmeticsdesign.com.

MWV president James Buzzard said the personal and beauty care is a mix offragrance and other products, which have fallen dramatically and is expectedgiven the economy. .

The report reveals that the consumers have turned to travel sizes as a way tolimit their investment while experimenting with new products. .

In 2011, with a health-conscious consumer base, the sun care segmentpackaging has reported a growth of 8%, as more customers concernedabout skin health are opting for convenient packaging formats.

Companies & Markets believes that in spite of the dull economic scenario ofthe US market, consumers are likely to continue to seek beauty and personalcare products out of a perceived necessity.

The report has concluded that unit volumes are expected to remain relativelystagnant through to 2015, within the US beauty and personal care packagingmarket, although some categories will see growth as manufacturers attemptto create differentiation within them through packaging.

P A C K A G I N G

Economic slowdown hits US beautypackaging

28 | November-December 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

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The Ministry of Health in Mexicohas issued a new labellingguideline for pre-packaged

cosmetics in a bid to resolveinstances where a product might bemisunderstood or even mis-branded.

According to the Ministry, with thenew regulation, a cosmeticcompany in Mexico must registerwith the SSA (Secretariat of Health)for a physical and chemical analysis,along with a Spanish translation and /or a free sale certificate and consularlegalisation, reportedcosmeticsdesign.com.

The new standard was jointlydeveloped by the Ministry, theFederal Commission for Protectionagainst Health Risks (COFEPRIS), andthe Federal Consumer GeneralAddress Verification and MonitoringResearch Coordination.

The standard PROY-NOM-141-SSA1/SCFI-2010 'Labelling of pre-packaged cosmetic products,Health and commercial labelling,' ispublished in the administration'sofficial journal (Diario Oficial de laFederación).

The Ministry as per the new standard has issued a new set of requirements and recommendations to the cosmeticcompanies to make sure that a product makes its entry into the market meeting regulatory standards.

In recent years, the Mexican government has come down on cosmetic companies looking to make way forimported products onto the market.

In 2009, the government announced it was imposing an additional 20% higher duty on certain personal careproducts imported from the US, which it estimated of having an impact of approximately $2.4bn in trade with theUS. The government said the new move was part of its attempt at ending a pilot scheme allowing Mexican trucksinto the US.

Mexico's new standards are likely to affect some of the industry's major players such as Procter & Gamble andJohnson & Johnson which are popular in the country's market.

Mexico issues new labelling guidelinefor cosmetics

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www.tana-cosmetics.de | [email protected]

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Amway, a consumer product company, is launching its newly redesignedSatinique hair care portfolio, with structural packaging and graphics createdby global brand agency CBX.

As part of the redesign, CBX simplified and contemporised the packaging ofnine cleansing items and four conditioners, as well as a host of styling gelsand serums, final-touch sprays, mousse and other products. For the newlogo, CBX added a touch of uniqueness to the 'q' in Satinique and mirroredthe letterform in a rejuvenating drop icon that sits with the brand mark.Satinique products now feature a jewel-tone and metallic colour palette withpremium finishes. CBX managing partner Gregg S. Lipman said: The redesignproject, which took top design honors in the hair care category this pastJune at HBA Global, the Health & Beauty Aids Expo and Conference, will aidSatinique remain relevant, contemporary and fresh in global brand marketsfor years to come.

"Because Amway is a $11.8 billion company with a vast network of globalcustomers and distributors, the structural positioning and graphics alsoneeded to be universally appealing," Lipman explained.

"And since Amway customers receive products direct from distributorsrather than shopping for them at shelf as with a typical CPG, the designconsiderations were a bit different as well."

The Smooth Bar, the first hair salon to specialise in hair smoothning treat-ments, has been unveiled in the US.

Touted to be the first salon in the nation to specialise entirely on hair-smoothing treatments, The Smooth Bar is located at 1807 Robinson Ave#104 San Diego, California.

The Smooth Bar creator Stacey Zayas said: "Smoothing treatments are nowthe largest single service growth area in the salon industry, with a rapidlyexpanding customer base.

"Smooth hair is a style that just doesn't seem to come or go - it's alwaysfashionable, and that's a big plus in our industry. I'm also thrilled to say we'llbe the first salon in California to specialize exclusively in Brazilian Keratintreatments," Zayas added.

The Smooth Bar offers latest and best treatments. Stylists are well trained tounderstand the wide variety of hair types and recommend the best optionsfor each and every customer, the company said.

Further, the Smooth Bar plans to adopt the highest possible safety standardsfor the salon industry and value.

The Smooth Bar is planning to introduce a unique fume extraction system,designed to pull fumes and byproducts from the air and filter them outbefore they are released back into the atmosphere.

Amway launches rede-signed Satinique hair careportfolio

California gets new hairsmoothing salon

Schwan Cosmetics USA, which is headquartered in Germany and known as manufacturer of cosmetic pencils, has inaugurated its new facility inRutherford County.

The facility is located on 25 acre.

According to the company, the facilities of Piscataway, New Jersey and Lewisburg, Tennessee have been integrated into the Rutherford County facility.

The $40m plant provides around 350 jobs.

Rutherford County Chamber of Commerce vice president of economic development Brian Hercules was quoted by Daily News Journal as saying: "Schwan'sdecision to combine two locations and house their North American headquarters speaks volumes for the business climate in Rutherford County.

"Having this innovative company in our community will diversify our manufacturing base, offer potential collaboration with higher-education institutions andoffer additional opportunities for our workforce."

The company's managing director Holli Montgomery was quoted by Daily News Journal that about 200 jobs will be transferred from Lewisburg facility toMurfreesboro.

The facility comprises labs and warehouses for its cosmetic pencils and tip pencils.

The company has more than 4,400 employees.

Schwan Cosmetics USA inaugurates new facility inRutherford County

34 | November-December 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

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Cosmoprof Asia celebrated its20th anniversary from 11 to13 November at the Hong

Kong Convention & ExhibitionCentre with record visitor andexhibitor numbers.

63,241 visitors from 119 countriesand regions attended the event(5.5% increase on last year), ofwhich 40,761 came from outside ofHong Kong (up 7% compared to2014). There was a significantincrease in visitors from the UnitedStates and Europe, including Austria,France, Poland, Portugal andSweden, as well as from emergingmarkets such as Chile, Thailand,Ukraine and Vietnam.“Cosmoprof Asia 2015 hosted2,504 exhibiting companies from 46countries which is an increase of 6%compared to last year, with anexhibition area of more than 84,000sqm, a 3% expansion”, said MichaelDuck, Director of Cosmoprof AsiaLtd “Every year we are witnessing agrowth in the show which confirmsits importance for the Asian beautyindustry”.

The international flavour was strongwith the participation of 22 nationaland group pavilions, which includethe largest-ever Korean pavilion (acollection of 212 companies over2,696 sqm) as well as the first-timerChile.

“Cosmoprof Asia is the main focalpoint for the international beautyindustry as we continue to invest inthe growth of the show with a focuson the Chinese market,” said DuccioCampagnoli, President ofCosmoprof Asia Ltd.

COSMOPROF ASIA 20th ANNIVER-SARY

The 2015 edition of Cosmoprof Asiamarked an important milestone forthe fair. From its humble beginnings

in 1996, Cosmoprof Asia hasexpanded rapidly to become themost recognised and celebratedevent in the beauty sector.

Italy and the USA were recognisedas ‘Countries of Honour’ for theirdedicated support and contributiontowards the growth of the fair. Italy,with the support of Ministry ofEconomic Development and ICE –Italian Trade Agency, in collaborationwith Cosmetica Italia, organised 107Italian companies in a dedicated areaof 2,338 sqm. ICMAD - TheIndependent Cosmetic Manufactur-ers and Distributors supported theparticipation of 90 companies fromthe United States occupying 1,867sqm.

POSITIVE BUSINESS RESULTSDuring the three days of theexhibition, visitors took part inevents, live demonstrations andseminars, and as well as enhancetheir industry education. Participantsalso took advantage of the show’sinaugural Match & Meet programme,an online business matchingplatform designed to facilitate qualitymeetings between key visitors andexhibitors.

NEW EXHIBITION AREASOne of the highlights in 2015 wasSpot on Beauty, an area of 3,700sqm dedicated to companiesfocused on finished products forthe spa & wellness, hair, nail,cosmetics & personal care sectors.As part of Spot on Beauty,Cosmoprof Asia presented thesecond edition of Boutique, thecharitable initiative which this yearwas dedicated to The Women’sFoundation, founded in 2004 tohelp women in Hong Kong whosuffer from domestic violence andsocial discrimination. Visitors get toselect seven travel-size productsfrom the participating companies fora small cash donation. The technical

COSMOPROF ASIA 2015 CONFIRMSRECORD NUMBERS FOR ITS 20th EDITION

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sponsor was HCP Packaging HongKong Limited, which produced thegift box.

Reflecting one of the biggest globaltrends in the beauty industry today,a new initiative was introduced atthe fair called Discover Trends. Thisarea offered visitors a rich selection

of innovative products from thethree fastest-growing segments ofthe cosmetic industry: natural &organic, baby care and men’s care.26 companies from 9 countries tookpart. Some of the notable exhibitorswere Petal Fresh from USA, RohrRemedy and Manuka Doctor fromAustralia for natural & organic

products; First Light from Australiaand Naïf from the Netherlands withproducts dedicated to new-bornchildren and mums; Giesen &Forsthoff from Germany for men’scare, specifically men’s grooming.

EDUCATION SESSIONSThe free-to-attend Spot on Beauty

Forum focused on beauty trendsand Asian market development. 12discussions were held, providingvisitors with unique insight into thetopical issues facing the industry.Particularly well-attended were thesessions presented byBeautystreams focusing on men’sfashion and grooming trends for

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Spring/Summer 2016, byCentdegrés discussing theperfumery trends in Asia and byOrganic Monitor presenting thefuture of natural and organiccosmetics in Asia. Other popularsessions included “Indonesia EthnoWellness Spa” by the Martha TilaarGroup, and the “Cosmetic MarketUpdate – Japan, Korea and China”presented by Conceptasia Inc.

Adding to the rich calendar ofevents was International Nail Days atwhich leading nail professionalsshared their knowledge, bestpractices and forecasts for the nailsector.

Well-known nail artists alsopresented the latest news andtrends for colors, decorations andtechnologies of the future.The 8th edition of Cosmoprof AsiaSpa Conference was a resoundingsuccess. 15 industry speakersshared their know-how and visionon the spa world and offeredinsights on best practices. Some of

the main themes were on creatingcustomer experiences, the evolutionof the spa business in China and thegrowing influence of male clients onthe industry.

SEE YOU IN 2016! Following years ofresounding success, growth anddevelopment, Cosmoprof Asia willintroduce the concept of "One Fair,Two Venues" in 2016. Presenting theFair in more spacious andspecialised platforms will allowexhibitors to expand their presence,for visitors to better realise theirsourcing goals, resulting in morebusiness opportunities foreveryone.

The 2016 edition will be heldstrategically across two venues -From 15 to 17 November,AsiaWorld-Expo will host exhibitorsof ingredients, machinery &equipment, packaging, contractmanufacturing and private label.From 16 to 18 November the HongKong Convention & ExhibitionCentre will open its doors for all

finished products: cosmetics &toiletries, natural health, beautysalon, hair salon, nail and accesso-ries. For further information pleasevisit our website: www.cosmoprof-asia.com

ABOUT BOLOGNAFIERE GROUP

www.bolognafiere.it BolognaFiereGroup, the world’s leading tradeshow organizer in the cosmetics,fashion, architecture, building, artand culture sectors, features in itsportfolio more than 80 exhibitions,both domestic and international.

BolognaFiere Cosmoprof spa, acompany of BolognaFiere Group, isthe organizer of Cosmoprof, aninternational platform, with events inBologna (established 1967), HongKong (established 1996) and LasVegas (established 2003).Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna,held March 18 - 21, 2016 with

Cosmopack, held March 17- 20,2016, is the most important meetingpoint in the world for professionalsin the beauty sector.ABOUT UBM ASIA LTD

www.ubmasia.com Owned by UBMplc listed on the London StockExchange, UBM Asia is the largesttrade show organiser in Asia and thelargest commercial organiser inChina, India and Malaysia.

Established with its headquarters inHong Kong and subsidiarycompanies across Asia and in theUS, UBM Asia has a strong globalnetwork of 31 offices and 1,300staff in 24 major cities. We operatein 20 market sectors with 230exhibitions and conferences, 21trade publications, 18 onlineproducts for over 2,000,000 qualityexhibitors, visitors, conferencedelegates, advertisers and subscrib-ers from all over the world.

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BVLGARI LE GEMME ORIENTALI: Lazulia,Selima and ZahiraThe luxurious Bvlgari Le Gemme collection that launched last year first presented six fragrances inspired by gems, all housed in beautiful flacons shaped likeantique amphorae: Ashlemah, Noorah, Amarena, Lilaia, Maravilla and Calaluna. This year’s editions are inspired by the most well-known gems that can befound on the Arabic peninsula: Lazulia celebrates lapis lazuli, Selima conveys the beauty of cornelian, while Zahira evokes the intense shine of topaz.

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Lazulia is a woody-oriental fragrance inspired byArabic nights and lapis lazuli, a gem of nobilityand spirituality. Lazulia in Arabic means "darkblue". This gem is a power of life strength andsources of energy and appears as dark bluewith tiny golden-white dots evoking the starrysky. The composition of the fragrance is incompliance with its character and providesmysterious and hypnotic oriental shadesintertwining with precious woody accords.Jasmine impresses us in top notes, thuscreating an overture to incense and oud wooddominating the composition.

BVLGARI LAZULIAperfumer: Daniela (Roche) Andrierjasmineincenseoud wood

Selima invites us on a journey throughthe rich Arabic peninsula by focusingon cornelian as a symbol of peace andabundance, life and wealth. The nameSelima means "tranquil and peaceful" inArabic, and in a calming manner, itbuilds an oriental-spicy union of flavorsand powerful red energy. Thecomposition opens with spicy notesof saffron under which lie lush redroses in a gourmand embrace withdate fruit, all resting on warm spices.

BVLGARI SELIMAperfumer: Daniela (Roche) Andriercinnamonrose, date fruitspices

Zahira takes us for a hot journey in the golden desert of Arabia. Itseduces us with the royal glow of topaz exuding trust, encouragementand charisma, inducing admiration and respect. Zahira means "shiny andluminous" in Arabic, and the fragrance provides radial and fiery floral-oriental aromas. The fragrance opens with the warmth and fire ofcinnamon, enveloping intoxicating and sweet-exotic flowers of ylang-ylang. Ylang flowers in the heart radiate like warm, shiny rays of sun overthe opulent light of benzoin in the base.

VLGARI ZAHIRAperfumer: Daniela (Roche) Andriercinnamonylang-ylangbenzoin

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The European Commission'sStanding Committee onCosmetics Products has voted

to approve the use of zinc oxide asa UV filter, at its meeting on 22October.According to the committee, thecompound is considered safe touse both in its nano- and non-nanoform, and also suitable as analternative to some UV filterssuspected of being endocrinedisruptors. Zinc oxide is a physical

EU cosmetics committee approvesthree ingredients

sunscreen, which forms a thin filmon the skin and reflects sun rays,while other chemical sunscreenspenetrate the skin and absorb theUV radiation, so that it does notcause damage.

The committee also voted toapprove:potassium hydroxide (KOH), for usein cosmetic products that remove orsoften calluses. The use of KOH isalready allowed in other types of

cosmetic products, including cuticleremovers and PH regulators;

trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphineoxide (TPO) as an ingredient in nailmodelling products, for professionaluse. TPO is classified as carcino-genic, mutagenic or reprotoxic(CMR), but was considered safe foruse in such products by theCommission's Scientific Committeeon Consumer Safety (SCCS) (CW 15April 2014). The substance is

considered to be allergenic, and,therefore, permitted only for use byprofessionals.

In addition, the meeting voted toofficially remove quaternium-15 fromthe list of authorised preservativesunder the cosmetics Regulation. Thecompound is due to be classifiedas a CMR and is already banned incosmetic products.

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Happy Birthday, VIVANESS!The International Trade Fair forNatural Personal Care is

celebrating its 10th anniversary. Overthe past decade the internationalnatural cosmetics market hasdeveloped magnificently. Withcontinual growth of 5 to over 10 %per year, the care products salesfigures excluding petro-chemicalsand problematical preservatives haveleft the conventional cosmeticsmarket behind. In Germany over thepast decade the market volume forcertified cosmetics has evendoubled. Not only revelations oncritical ingredients in conventionalcosmetics have led to increaseddemand. According to the experts,the main reasons for the naturalcosmetics boom lie particularly intheir availability today in all retailchannels along with increasedproduct diversity coupled withprofessional performance. Theinternational beauty sector can seethis for itself from 10 to 13 February2016 at the exhibition centreNuremberg. At the anniversaryedition of VIVANESS, 200 exhibitorsfrom around 30 countries areexpected.

Germany is the European championin terms of natural cosmetics. In

2014, with a value of 1.009 billionEuro*, sales exceeded the magicone-billion mark for the first time.This conclusion was reached by ajoint market survey conducted bythe Gesellschaft fürKonsumforschung (GfK, Society forConsumer Research, Nuremberg, D),Information Resources Germany IRI(Düsseldorf, D), IMS health(Frankfurt, D) and Biovista –Marktforschung für den Bio- undReformhandel (Market Research forthe Organic and Health Food RetailTrade, Ettlingen, D). The retail salesfor 2014 were evaluated with all retailchannels taken into account.

But there are also indications of cleargrowth of around 8 % for the firsthalf of 2015. In contrast, theconventional cosmetics market isstagnating and continuing to losecustomers to natural cosmetics.Elfriede Dambacher, owner of theNaturkosmetik Verlag and editor ofnumerous special publications onthe natural cosmetics market, saidcommenting on the reasons:“Today, consumers decide in amuch more (self)-assured waywhich materials and ingredients theyallow to come into contact withtheir skin, and they are also wellinformed. Critical reports on

10 years of VIVANESS – 10 years ofgrowth in natural cosmeticsGERMANY: PIONEER INNATURAL COSMETICSWorldwide:continuing highdemand

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potentially health-hazardousmaterials (e.g. hydrocarbons) inconventional cosmetic products, abroad range of natural cosmeticsalong with the increasing signifi-cance of value-oriented consump-tion are contributing to this positivetrend.” Europe: four nations top thecosmetics turnover rankings

In Europe, according to statisticsfrom the European CosmeticsAssociation (Brussels, B), over 72billion Euro is spent on cosmetics,in the EU member countries around69 billion Euro. Germany, France,Great Britain and Italy are among thetop consumers: in 2013, at 42.8billion Euro, these countries alreadygenerated over 60 % of cosmetic

sales in the EU.The situation on the naturalcosmetics market is similar: Germanyhas been the leader for years. Here,natural cosmetics has a market shareof almost 8 %. Second place istaken by France, where according toCosmetics Europe, turnovergenerated in 2013 was around 410million Euro. That corresponds to a

market share of approx. 5 %. GreatBritain occupies third place with anestimated 313 million in sales,followed by Italy with 306 million.Euro. As a result, these countriesaccount for the lion’s share ofnatural cosmetics turnover inEurope. But in Austria and Switzer-land too, natural cosmetics isbooming: in each of these countries

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80 million Euro is spent on naturalpersonal care.

Worldwide: green growth registered

According to Amarjit Sahota fromEnglish market researchers OrganicMonitor (London, GB), the globalcosmetics market is also beingincreasingly driven by the demandfor green, natural-state andsustainable care products. Theproducers of conventionalcosmetics are already responding tothese developments and areincreasingly banking on naturalingredients. Sahota speaks of apositive trend in the global naturalcosmetics market. In recent years,global sales of natural cosmeticshave risen from 6.5 to over 10 billionUS Dollars. Market researchcompany Kline International (NewYork, USA) is predicting an annualgrowth rate for the sector of 10 % –including natural-based cosmetics.For Sahota, the other challengesfacing the sector include thecompetition with natural-basedcosmetic brands, which conductgreenwashing, raw materialsprocurement as well as environmen-tally-compatible product packaging.

VIVANESS: the international meetingplace for the sector

The market remains in flux and isfaced with major challenges, theexperts are agreed on this. Well-founded specialist presentations oncurrent international developmentsalong the entire value-added chainare being offered by the VIVANESSCongress, which in 2016 will beheld for the first time directly in Hall7A and thus at the heart of theaction at VIVANESS, InternationalTrade Fair for Natural Personal Care.At this event, natural cosmeticsmanufacturers and producers will beshowing tried-and-tested newproducts as well as innovative rawmaterials. In 2016, trade visitors willbe able to experience young,innovative companies presentingnatural cosmetics “made inGermany” in a pavilion at VIVANESSsponsored by theBundesministerium für Wirtschaftund Energie (BMWI, Federal Ministryfor Economic Affairs and Energy).The Novelty Stand at VIVANESS and

the “Novelties” special show enablea compact overview of the naturalcosmetics sector. In addition,Breeze will continue to deliver aninspirational special show forinternational newcomers and nichebrands.

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