Genoa To Rome Cycle Challenge 2015

Trip Blog by Billy Parker (Cyclist)

DAY ONE

Genoa to La Spezia (116km)

This morning all 53 of us gathered at the fountain in the Piazza Ferrari at 8.30am and each group

rolled out in numerical order after a photo call. Our group entered the morning traffic and got about 500

metres when we realised half were missing. We pull in to be told that a good few are still at the

fountain! A flavour of what was to transpire for the day in our group. Much stopping and starting and no

real rhythm but a fun day nonetheless once we exited the endless traffic lights and junctions that

populate the outskirts of Genoa.

The high spirits of the early morning were dampened somewhat by some very heavy rain showers that

left us all soaking, slipping and sliding as we headed south along the coast the Rafello and then inland

to tackle a 15k climb with an average of 5%. A real challenge to some in the group but they all made it

up with a wonderful display of determination and guts. Lunch followed in a hilltop village and as the

skies cleared we descended into the warmth of the valley below.

We arrived in La Spezia in the evening sun and following a quick change in the hotel headed out for a

few beers and a stretch of the legs. Having passed through this town some years ago on a bus which

left no impression whatsoever, this evenings walk and group meal resulted in a complete revision. A

fine town with some wonderful pedestrianised streets full of locals and tourists. Families and groups of

children and teenagers quietly and politely walking chatting and laughing as we meandered back to the

hotel close to midnight. Off to Pisa tomorrow. Forecast is for more rain. Ironically my son Alan has to

water my spuds at home!

DAY TWO

La Spezia to Pisa (135km)

A very special day on the bike. One of those memorable spins that far exceeded all expectations.

The 60% chance of rain very kindly produced a 40% no rain at all at all outcome and a day of multiple

sun cream applications. A wonderful blend of sleepy mountain villages and bustling seaside resorts. A

sharp contrast of unrecognisable perfume hilltop scents and the familiar intake of the salty sea smells

as we skirted the coastal towns.

We like La Spezia. We like it even more as the exit from the town was largely free of traffic and traffic

lights which resulted in a fast and uninterrupted getaway. A sharp climb just past the town removed any

after effects of the seemingly never ending sumptuous 6 course meal and endless wine supply from the

night before. Awake and humming we skimmed along the surprisingly long and highway like coastal

road through the towns of Carrara and others merging into one another as we flashed past beaches

and clubs populated by Italians rather than tourists. A welcome snack under a leafy shady tree and we

headed inland and upwards. Lunch was perched on top of a unexpectedly high but spectacular hill and

the effort to get there was well matched by the food and the spectacular views.

We left the lunch stop in the comforting knowledge that a handy downhill section beckoned and then a

fast and flat 30k to the walled and beautiful town of Lucca. I sat here in an open square 4 years

previously and listened to Crosby Stills and Nash. A unique town well worth a visit. Our destination for

the day Pisa was now in our sights and winding country roads past fields of sugarcane maize and

sunflowers welcomed us as we approached the famous town.

We arrived at the base of the Tower as the evening sun settled on its upper balconies and marvelled at

the tilt that defies gravity. The customary selfie ensued. A fine hotel a fine meal, a fine bottle of red wine

or two finished off a very fine and unforgettable day. Tuscany tomorrow.

DAY THREE

Pisa to Siena (140km)

A midnight beer in the piazza closest to the hotel followed by a sleepless night due to mosquito

infiltration was not ideal preparation for a demanding day on the bike today. Pisa was a revelation as I

clearly only saw the worst parts 4 years ago and now have seen the best so on balance a fine city and

the entrance to the Tuscan hills with which we were about to become very familiar.

Highlight of the day was the climb up Monte Serra which has featured in the Giro and is a well known

training route. Of even greater note and significance was my ascent in the company of Paul Kimmage

one of our best professional cyclists and now one of our finest sports journalists. Paul is a friend of The

Irish Hospice Foundation and has been of huge assistance in promoting this event. Each day he cycles

with one of the groups and today it was mine. He very kindly and sportingly climbed at my pace as

clearly the alternative would have been very short lived. The summit was disappointing comprising a

mast and a tractor. Not in the least disappointing was what followed.

An unforgettable immersion in the Tuscany vineyards, Roman roads, Cypress trees hilltop villages and

perfect cycling weather. Our smooth peloton weaved and meandered its way through this unique and

intoxicating mixture of landscape and culture and we devoured it with relish. We did the same to our

sumptuous lunch in the medieval town of San Gimignano with its magnificent square and towers. Legs

laden with food and sprinkled with the ancient dust of this town we swooped up and down the endless

hills of this captivating region heading for our destination for the day, Siena, a UNESCO world heritage

site. And what a destination it was.

We entered the old cobbled city on our less than ancient carbon bikes and with much deftness and

astute bike handling managed to avoid a collision with the multitude of pedestrians as we visited the

famous Piazza del Campo. Another splendid day to pile upon yesterday and the events and memories

of the demanding but rewarding peddle were washed and embellished with some fine red wine and a

few more beers.

Our training regime and nightly preparation have assumed a familiar but satisfying pattern. Tomorrow

we head deeper into Tuscany and Bolseno.

DAY FOUR

Siena to Bolsena (150km)

Rarely does the idyllic image get surpassed by reality.

Today in Tuscany it unfolded in a seemingly endless display. Reel after reel of iconic pictures presented

themselves as live scenes. A patchwork quilt of rolling fields of various hues edged by lines of Cypress

trees tumbled before our eyes as we climbed and descended hill after hill in a demanding undulating

but ultimately hugely rewarding day on the bike. Photos do not and cannot capture the depth and

breathing beauty of this region of Italy and from the vantage point of the only form of transport where

the engine and passenger are one and the same, this was a special experience.

We emerged from Siena and into the hills in the early morning sun which created shapes and colours

that had most of our group stopping and taking pictures at every opportunity. We were headed for

Bolsena a town on the large inland crater lake of the same name.

The lake was 150km from our Siena hotel and 2400 meters of hills in between. Hills dotted with

towering mansions, castles, villages and lines of soldier like trees arranged in formation. While

mesmerised by the beauty of it all we still had to push and pull our way up and down the landscape

under a hot and relentless sun. It made for a tough but very worthwhile day which culminated in a swim

in the smooth and still waters of Lake Bolsena.

An evening meal on the shore followed by a few beers concluded yet another terrific day on this trip and

leaves us with one final day tomorrow as we head for Rome.

DAY FIVE – FINAL DAY!

Bolsena to Rome (130km)

A palpable tiredness in the groups this morning. Yesterday's route and heat clearly taking their toll.

Thankfully a shorter distance today with less climbing and a promised exciting last 30k as we drop from

the hills into the outskirts of Rome. Less exciting was the road surface. The difference between the

roads in Tuscany and its adjoining administrative region of Lazio which we entered yesterday afternoon

was remarkable and for us cyclists most unwelcome. Tuscany roads were smooth well maintained and

entirely free of any potholes. Imagine the opposite and you have the Lazio roads. Thankfully a mix of

luck and skill avoided both and all groups emerged unscathed.

Most of the climbing was done before lunch through villages and farmland and as the sun grew in

intensity so did the desire for shade every time we regrouped. Another lunchtime feast of pasta and

assorted dishes in Bagnaia together with our snack breaks set up by our support team fuelled us for the

final assault on the ancient City of Rome. Some assistance was also lent by the very tasty cornetto

which I devoured as part of my strict training regime which had successfully got me this far.

Rome and the Vatican City awaited our arrival. We swooshed off the surrounding hills and then

promptly vanished. There along the Tiber exists a cycle path completely camouflaged with walls of tall

grasses and reeds. It extends 12k and dispatches you into the city centre within minutes of St. Peter's

Square. Apart from the need for some serious hedge trimming this path was both a wondrous and

welcome delivery system without which our arrival in Rome would have been demanding and

potentially treacherous in the rush hour traffic. With less than 5k to go our heretofore unimpeded and

unheralded arrival was halted in its tracks. To our surprise and amusement a herd of sheep blocked our

progress. Undaunted we worked our way around them and around the evening traffic which awaited at

the end of the path. We snaked our way to the walls of the Vatican City and arrived in the Square as the

sun and amused tourists looked on. We embraced and congratulated each other.

An emotional moment for many as their personal journey and tough physical challenge reached its

destination and conclusion. Many were not regular or well-trained cyclists and these were the real

heroes and heroines of the trip as their courage, determination and desire drove them onwards and

upwards each day covering in excess of 600km in 5 days over a very demanding route. Each had their

own private motivation for this wonderful challenge and its completion brings enormous personal

reward and deservedly so.

In addition it has raised over €100,000 for The Irish Hospice Foundation whose extraordinary work is

experienced at some level by most of us. It was a privilege and honour to share the road, the pasta, the

wine, the camaraderie and the experience with such a fine group of people, get the benefit of the words

and wisdom of Paul Kimmage and see such unforgettable Italian scenery.

- Billy Parker