bls_0435_1927.pdf

U. S. DEPARTMENT OF LABORJAMES J. DAVIS, Secretary

BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICSETHELBERT STEWART, Commissioner

BULLETIN OF THE UNITED STATES \ . . . .BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS j

W A G E S AND H OU RS OF LABOR SER IES

WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR IN THE MENS CLOTHING INDUSTRY

1911 TO 1926

MARCH, 1927

UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT POINTING OFFICE

WASHINGTON 1927

Digitized for FRASER http://fraser.stlouisfed.org/ Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis

A D D IT IO N A L COPIES OF THIS PUBLICATION MAT BE PROCURED FROM

THE SUPERINTENDENT OF DOCUMENTS GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE

WASHINGTON, D. C.AT

10 CEN TS P E R COPY V


CONTENTS

PageIntroduction and summary________________ ______ ______________________ 1-3

T a b l e 1. Average hours and earnings and index numbers of average full-time hours per week, earnings per hour, and full-timeearnings per week, 1911 to 1926, by year, occupation, and sex____ 3-6

Average and classified earnings per hour________________________________ 8 -19Regular or customary hours of operation_______________________________ 20-24Changes in wage rates since July 1, 1924________________________________ 24Bonus systems_________________________________________________________ 25Pay for overtime and for Sundays and holidays_________________________ 25, 26Explanation of scope and method_______________________________________26-29Number and per cent of timeworkers and of pieceworkers_______________ 29-33Days worked by employees_____________________________________________ 33, 34General tables--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 34-63

T a b l e A. Average number qf days on which employees worked and average full-time and actual hours and earnings per week, and per

cent of full time worked, 1926, by occupation, sex, and city______35-41T a b l e B. Average and classified earnings per hour in nine specified

occupations, 1926, by sex and city_______________________________ 42-47T a b l e C. Average and classified "full-time hours per week in nine

specified occupations, 1926, by sex and city______________________ 48-51Table D. Average and classified hours actually worked in one week

in nine specified occupations, 1926, by sex and city_______________ 52-57Table E. Average and classified actual earnings in one week in nine

specified occupations, 1926, by sex and city______________________ 58-63111


BULLETIN OF THE

U. S. BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICSno. 435 WASHINGTON march, imt

WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR IN THE MENS CLOTHING INDUSTRY, 1911 TO 1926

INTRODUCTION AND SUMMARYThis bulletin presents average earnings and hours of labor for 1926

for the principal occupations of employees in representative establishments in the mens clothing industry in the United States, together with summary figures of like character for the years 1911 to 1914, 1919, 1922, and 1924.1 The averages were computed from data taken by agents of the bureau directly from the pay rolls or other records of the establishments for one representative pay period in each specified year.

The 1926 figures are average number of days worked by employees in one week, average full-time hours per week, average hours actually worked in one week, the per cent that average hours actually worked in one week are of the average full-time hours per week, average earnings per hour, average full-time earnings per week, and average earnings actually made in one week. These averages, classified by occupation, sex, and city, are shown in General Table A (pp. 35 to 41), and cover a total of 17,048 males and 16,611 females, employed by 198 establishments, operating 359 cutting, coat, pants, and vest shops. The number of wage earners covered represents, according to the 1923 United States Census of Manufactures, 17 per cent of the total number in the industry in the United States and approximately 27 per cent of the wage earners in the industry in the localities included in the report. Data were collected in Baltimore, Boston, Buffalo, Chicago, Cincinnati, Cleveland, New York, Philadelphia, Rochester, St. Louis, and a group of cities and towns in eastern Pennsylvania outside of Philadelphia. The totals for these cities may be accepted as fairly representative of the United States as a whole.

The 1926 data were taken from the June records of 54 establishments, the July records of 87 establishments, and the August records of 57 establishments, and therefore are representative of conditions in these months.

Summaries by occupations and for a group of workers who are designated as other employees, covering average full-time hours per week, average earnings per hour, average full-time earnings per week, and index numbers of these averages, are presented in Table 1 for the years 1911 to 1914, 1919, 1922, 1924, and 1926, and summaries by sex and cities, covering average hours and earnings, are presented in Table 2 for 1926. The group of other employees includes a

1 See Buis. Nos. 187, 265, 329, and 387 of the U. S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. 1


very small number of employees in other occupations, the number of employees in each occupation being too small to warrant tabulation by occupation.

The figures for the years prior to 1926 were taken from Bulletins Nos. 135, 187, 265, 329, and 387, published by the bureau. The number of establishments covered varied from 80 in 1911 to 198 in 1926. Data were not collected for the vears 1915 to 1918, 1920, 1921, 1923, and 1925.

In each of the 11 occupations for which figures for both males and females are shown in Table 1 the 1926 average full-time earnings per week of males exceed those of females. The greatest difference between the weekly earnings of males and females is $29.21, for fitters and trimmers, coat, and the least is $15.14, for hand sewers, coat.

At the end of Table 1 are presented averages for selected occupations^ for the years 1911, 1912, 1913, and 1914 only, and for all occupations, including other employees, for 1914, 1919, 1922, 1924, and 1926. The averages for selected occupations are directly comparable, one year with another, as are also the averages for all occupations.

To aid in making comparisons from year to year of full-time hours per week, of earnings per hour, and of full-time earnings per week, index numbers for specified occupations and for the industry as a whole are presented m the last three columns of Table 1.

From 1911 to 1913 data were collected for certain specified occupations only, the employees in these occupations constituting about 80 per cent of the total number of employees in all occupations. Beginning with 1914 data have been collected for all occupations.

The index numbers are for those occupations only for which data for 1913 are available. These indexes were computed from the averages in Table 1, being simply percentages, the 1913 average being taken as the base or 100 per cent.

The indexes for the industry for 1911 to 1914, inclusive, were computed from the averages of the combined data for the specified occupations. For the years succeeding 1914 the combined figures for all occupations have been used in computing the indexes, the index numbers for 1914 computed from the combined figures for the specified occupations being increased or decreased in proportion to the increases or decreases in the averages for all occupations as between 1914 and the specified succeeding year.

The index numbers for the industry as a whole show that hourly earnings in 1926 were 191.8 per cent higher than in 1913, more than three times the hourly earnings of 1911, 68 per cent above the hourly earnings of 1919, and 3 per cent higher than in 1922, but were 1.3 per cent lower than in 1924. The decrease for the industry from 1924 to 1926 was due to a larger percentage of females being employed in 1926 than in 1924. The average hourly earnings of males in all occupations were six-tenths and of females seven-tenths of 1 per cent higher in 1926 than in 1924.

Information obtained in the 1922 study in answer to inquiries as to increases and decreases in wage rates established the fact that average hourly earnings of employees in the men ?s clothing industry were higher in 1920 than in 1922, but as no detailed wage study was made in 1920 there are no figures to show how much higher the earnings in 1920 were, or whether they were higher or lower than in 1926.

2 MEN S CLOTHING INDUSTRY


INTRODUCTION AND SUMMARY 3Between 1913 and 1926 full-time hours decreased 14.3 per cent

and full-time weekly earnings increased 151.4 per cent. The fulltime weekly earnings did not increase in the same proportion as average earnings per hour, because of the reduction in full-time hours per week.T ablk 1 A VE R AG E HOURS A N D EARN ING S A N D IN D E X N U M BERS OF A VE R A G E

FU LL-TIM E HOURS P E R W EE K , EARN ING S PE R HOUR, AN D FU LL-TIM E E A R N INGS PER W EEK, 1911 TO 1926, B Y Y E A R , OCCUPATION , A N D SEX

Number of establish

ments

Number of em

ployees

Aver AverAver

age

Index numbers of average

Occupation and sex Year

agefulltimehours

perweek

ageearningsper

hour

fulltimeearningsper

week

Fulltimehours

perweek

Earningsper

hour

Fulltimeearning:}per

week

Basters, coat:Male................................................... 1911 30 1,112 5k 3 $0. 220 $12.15 105.3 82.4 86.8

1912 T>4 1,409 55.7 . 215 11.94 100.1 80.5 85.1913 48 1,588 52.5 .267 14.00 100.0 100.0 100.01914 56 1,555 52.1 . 257 13.33 i 99.2 96.3 95. 21919 54 1,043 47.5 .511 24. 22 90.5 191.4 173.01922 48 1,414 44.3 .848 37. 58 84.4 317.6 208. 11924 00 1,541 ' 44.4 .889 39. 47 84.6 333.0 281.91920 78 1,710 ! 44.3 . 925 40. 98 84.4 340.5 292.7

Female.............................................................. 1911 36 603 55. 2 .176 9.04 105. 3 94.6 99. 11912 50 839 55. 5 .165 9.15 105.9 88.7 91. 01913 38 919 i 52.4 . 186 9.73 ' 100.0 . 100.0 i 10:1.01914 51 812 51. 7 . m 9.07 ! 98.7 KU.6 1 99. 11919 58 1,030 : 47.9 . 356 17.03 ' 91.4 1 19i. 4 175.01922 45 949 43.8 .574 25.35 1 83.6 . 308.6 260.51924 53 1,168 ; 43.2 . 592 25. 57 i 82.4 j 318.3 202.81926 74 1,436 | 43.8 .580 25. 40 ; 83.6 I 311.8 261 1

Basters, pants:Female............................................... 1911 11 152 55.0 .153 8.42 ! 104.4 I 95.0 i 99.3

1912 20 183 ! 54.8 .108 9.20 : 104.0 ; 104.3 10$. 51913 22 156 1 52.7 .161 8.48 : 100.0 i 100.0 100.01914 33 156 52.6 .171 8.97 ! 99.8 j 106.2 105.81919 34 105 ! 48.1 .275 13.10 i 91.3 170.8 154.51922 27 110 i 43.9 .453 19.78 : 83.3 i 281.4 233.31924 29 103 44.0 .550 24. 20 : 83.5 : 341.6 285. 41920 31 103 44.3 . 469 20. 78 i 84.1 j 291.3 24 r. 1

Basters, vest: 1i1iFemale................................................ 1911 17 161 54.7 .181 9. 86 103.8 93. S 97.0

1912 26 274 55. 1 .185 10.17 105.1 95.9 JOO.O1913 30 241 52.7 .193 10.17 100.0 100.0 100.01914 36 264 51.8 .203 10.50 98.3 105. 2 103.21919 32 194 48.0 .318 15.32 91.1 : 104.8 150.61922 38 241 44.0 .588 25. 92 83.5 304.7 254.91924 51 299 43.9 . 638 2$. 01 83.3 330.0 275.41926 61 304 44.5 .612 27. 23 84.4 , 317.2 207.7

Total basters:Female............................................... 1911 50 916 55.0 . 170 9.48 104.8 94.0 98.1

1912 73 1,296 55.4 .170 9.37 105.5 i 92.4 97.01913 66 1,316 52.5 .184 9.66 100.0 || 100.0 100.01914 89 1,232 51.9 .189 9.81 98.9 !! 102.7 101.61919 94 1,329 47.9 .344 16.47 91.2 |i 187.0 170.51922 78 1,300 43.9 .566 24.98 83.6 !! 307.6 258.61924 101 1,570 43.4 .597 25.91 82.7 !! 324.5 208.21926 125 1,843 44.0 .578 25.43 83.8 !! 314.1 263.3

Bushelers and tailors: iMale................................................... 1911 42 49G 54.2 .248 13.33 103.8 ! 90.8 93.7

1912 58 574 54.8 .243 13.28 105.0 ! 89.0 93.31913 52 684 52.2 .273 14. 23 100.0 100.0 100.01914 72 583 51.6 .282 14. 56 98.9 | 103.3 102.31919 61 666 48.0 .473 22.42 92.0 173.3 157.61922 58 464 44.1 .783 34. 56 84.5 286.8 242.91924 77 586 44.1 .879 38.76 84.5 322.0 272.41926 104 553 44.3 .856 37.92 84.9 313.6 266.5

Cutters, cloth, hand and machine: M ale................................................... 1911 39 1,646 49.9 .400 20.13 101.8 93.8 95.1

1912 52 2,012 49.8 .410 20.30 101.6 94.7 95.91913 53 2,007 49.0 .433 21.16 100.0 100.0 100.01914 53 1,931 48.6 .448 21.74 99.2 103. 5 102.71919 63 1,576 47.7 .628 29.69 97.3 145.0 140.31922 45 1,975 44.0 1.033 45.50 89.8 238.6 215.01924 57 1,984 44.2 1.111 49.11 90.2 250.6 232.11926 82 1,880 44.2 1.123 49.64 90..2 259.4 234.6


4 MEN S CLOTHING INDUSTRYT a b l e 1 . A V E R A G E HOURS A N D E ARN IN G S A N D IN D E X N U M B ER S OF A V E R A G E

FU LL-TIM E HOURS P E R W EE K , E ARN IN G S P E R H OUR, A N D FU LL-TIM E E A R N INGS P E R W E E K , 1911 TO 1926, B Y Y E A R , O CCUPATION , A N D SE X -C on tinu ed


Number of establish

ments

Number of em

ployees

Averagefulltimehours

perweek

Average

earningsper

hour

Averagefulltimeearningsper

week

Index numbers o f average

Fulltimehours

perweek

Earningsper

hour

Fulltimeearningsper

week

Examiners, shop and stock room:M ale................................................... 1911 31 269 52.4 $0.291 $15.20 101.2 96.0 97.2

1912 51 403 53.1 .292 15.39 102.5 96.4 98.51913 48 434 51.8 .303 15.63 100.0 100.0 100.01914 59 488 51.2 .317 16.18 98.8 104.6 103.51919 65 488 47.8 .487 22.65 92.3 160.7 144.91922 56 409 44.2 .803 35.45 85.3 265.0 226.81924 82 494 44.2 .874 38.63 85.3 288.4 247.21928 103 681 44.3 .851 37.70 85.5 280.9 241.2

Female._____ ___________________ 1919 25 122 48.4 .321 14.711922 20 127 44.0 .475 20.571924 27 165 43.9 .506 22. 211926 35 205 44.4 .497 22.07

Fitters and trimmers, coat:M ale................................................... 1911 32 140 54.5 .294 16.05 104.4 84.5 88.4

1912 48 194 55.1 .292 16.05 105.6 83.9 88.41913 49 205 52.2 .348 18.15 100.0 100.0 100.01914 57 210 51.7 .332 17.13 99.0 95.4 94.41919 53 207 47.7 .575 27.24 91.4 165.2 150.11922 46 208 44.2 .959 42.46 84.7 275.6 233.91924 52 146 44.3 1.096 48.55 84.9 314.9 267.51926 80 228 44.4 1.069 47.46 85.1 307.2 261.5

Fem ale....................... .................... 1926 13 33 44.5 .410 18.25Hand sewers, coat:

M ale................................................... 1911 18 221 55.8 .204 11.34 107.1 80.6 85.71912 35 305 50.2 .212 11.90 107.9 83.8 89.91913 20 144 52.1 .253 13.23 100.0 100.0 1G0.01914 33 317 52.1 .270 14.04 1 100.0 106.7 106.11919 10 66 47.8 .446 21.05 91.7 176.3 159.11922 24 191 44.0 .898 39.57 84.5 354.9 299.11924 24 140 44.0 .85(5 37.66 84.5 338.3 28 . 71926 24 211 44.3 .888 39.34 85.0 351.0 297.4

Female............................................... 1911 39 2,668 54.8 .155 8.45 105.2 86.6 90.61912 56 2,888 55.2 .153 8.40 106.0 85.5 90.01913 57 3,046 52.1 .179 9.33 100.0 100.0 100.01914 64 3,119 51.7 .177 9.14 99.2 98.9 98.01919 71 2,907 47.8 .334 15.09 91.7 186.6 161.71922 53 3,063 44.2 .526 23.35 84.8 293.9 250. 31924 67 2,968 44.1 .555 24.48 84.6 310.1 262.41926 100 3,973 44.4 . 545 24.20 85.2 304.5 259.4

Hand sewers, pants:Female............................................... 1911 25 656 54.9 .141 7.69 105.2 86.5 90.4

1912 35 937 54.7 .150 8.18 104.8 92.0 96.11913 38 856 52.2 .163 8. 51 100.0 100.0 100.01914 50 1,103 52.0 .150 7.77 99.6 92.0 91.31919 42 440 48.0 .281 13.41 92.0 172.4 157.61922 51 549 44.0 .422 18.61 84.3 258.9 218.71924 71 581. 44.3 .447 19.80 84.9 274.2 232.71926 82 858 44.2 .451 19.93 84.7 276.7 234.2

Hand sewera, vest:Female................................................ 1911 21 339 54.6 .167 9.10 104.4 88.8 92.8

1912 30 570 54.9 .165 9.00 105.0 87.8 91.71913 42 602 52.3 .188 9.81 100.0 100.0 100.01914 49 684 51.6 .188 9.72 98.7 100.0 99.11919 42 597 48.0 .315 15.07 91.8 167.6 153.61922 42 701 44.0 .519 22.91 84.1 276.1 233.51924 59 734 44.0 .569 25.04 84.1 302.7 255.21926 68 842 44.1 .578 25.49 84.3 307.5 259.8

Total hand sewers:Female................................................ 1911 61 3,663 54.8 .153 8.37 105.0 86.4 90.7

1912 89 4,395 55.1 .154 8.43 105. C 87.0 91.31913 103 4,504 52.2 .177 9.23 100.0 100.0 100.01914 126 4,906 51.7 .173 8.91 99.0 97.7 96.51919 121 3,944 47.9 .326 14.90 91.8 184.2 161.41922 101 4,313 44.1 .512 22.68 84.5 289.3 245.71924 142 4,283 44.1 .543 23.95 84.5 306.8 259.51926 185 6,673 44.3 .536 23.74 84.9 302.8 257.2


INTRODUCTION AND SUMMARY 5T a b l e 1 . A V E R A G E HOURS A N D E AR N IN G S A N D IN D E X N U M B E R S OF A V E R A G E

F U L L -T IM E H OURS P E R W E E K , E AR N IN G S P E R H OU R, A N D F U L L -T IM E E A R N IN GS P E R W E E K , 1911 TO 1926, B Y Y E A R , O C C U PA TIO N , A N D S E X Continued


perweek

AverAver

age



Number of establish

ments

Number of em

ployees

ageearningsper

hour

fulltimeearningsper

week

Fulltimehours

perweek

Earningsper

hour

Fulltimeearningsper

week

Operators, coat:M a le ...- '............................................. 1911 31 913 55.9 $0,264

.262$14.70 106.5 86.6 92.3

1912 53 1,364 56.2 14.63 107.0 85.9 91.81913 55 1,826 52.5 .305 15.93 100.0 100.0 100.01914 62 1,522 51.9 .321 16.61 98.9 105.2 104.31919 63 1,603 47.6 .591 28.05 90.7 193.8 176.11922 50 1,785 44.1 .962 42.46 84.0 315.4 266.51924 61 1,911 44.1 1.033 45.56 84.0 338.7 286.01926 92 2,363 44.1 1.034 45.60 84.0 339.0 286.3

Female................................................ 1911 34 756 54.2 .195 10.53 104.0 98.0 101.81912 44 949 54.3 .184 9.95 104.2 92.5 96.21913 37 1,077 52.1 .199 10.34 100.0 100.0 100.01914 46 1,114 51.8 .213 11.00 99.4 107.0 106.41919 60 2,086 48.1 .361 17.28 92.3 181.4 167.11922 42 1,603 43.9

43.?.593 25.98 84.3 298.0 251.3

1924 50 2,126 .614 26.77 83.7 308.5 258.91926 77 2,599 44.4 .638 28.33 85.2 320.6 274.0

Operators, pants:Male.................................................... 1911 20 439 56.8 .242 13.71 108.0 77.3 83.6

1912 40 890 56.5 .250 14.08 107.4 79.9 85.91913 37 796 52.6 .313 16.40 100.0 100.0 100.01914 45 827 52.6 .293 15.37 100.0 93.6 93.71919 39 538 47.7 .599 28.47 90.7 191.4 173.61922 50 1,084 44.1 .902 39.63 83.8 288.2 241.61924 69 1,262 44.2 .965 42.65 84.0 308.3 260.11926 75 1,533 44.3 .961 42.57 84.2 307.0 259.6

Female................................................ 1911 26 599 54.8 .180 9.88 104.8 90.5 95.31912 39 806 54.8 .182 9.95 104.8 91.5 95.91913 40 1,048 52.3 .199 10.37 100.0 100.0 100.01914 48 999 51.8 .204 10.57 99.0 102.5 101.91919 51 1,371 48.2 .341 16.34 92.2 171.4 157.61922 52 1,341 43.9 .574 25.14 83.9 288.1 242.41924 62 1,603 44.7 .556 24.85 85.5 279.4 239.61926 80 2,317 44.7 .576 25.75 85.5 289.4 248.3

Operators, vest:Male................................................... 1911 16 109 55.2 .310 17.11 104.9 85.2 89.6

1912 25 226 56.3 .304 16.95 107.0 83.5 88.81913 30 247 52.6 .364 19.09 100.0 100.0 100.01914 40 266 52.1 .362 18.82 99.0 99.5 98.61919 29 208 47.9 .616 29.43 91.1 169.2 154.21922 36 350 44.0 .990 43.60 83.7 272.0 228.41924 48 438 44.1 1.034 45.60 83.8 284.1 238.91926 55 511 44.1 1.062 46.83 83.8 291.8 245.3

Female............................................... 1911 17 312 54.4 .206 11.23 103.8 91.2 95.01912 22 407 54.6 .207 11.27 104.2 91.6 95.31913 28 468 52.4 .226 11.82 100.0 100.0 100.01914 33 511 51.5 .239 12.32 98.3 105.8 104.21919 87 544 48.1 .350 16.69 91.8 154.9 141.21922 32 594 43.8 .596 26.27 83.6 263.7 222.31924 46 738 43.8 .600 26.28 83.6 265.5 222.3

Total operators:1926 58 940 44.5 .630 28.04 84.9 278.7 237.2

Male_____ . . . . . _________________ 1911 46 1,461 56.1 .261 14.58 106.9 83.7 89.81912 87 2,480 56.3 .261 14.64 107.2 83.7 89.71913 90 2,869 52.5 .312 16.33 100.0 100.0 100.01914 110 2,615 52.1 .316 16.44 99.2 101.3 100.71919 101 2,349 47.7 .595 28.27 90.9 190.7 173.11922 101 3,219 44.1 .946 41.63 84.0 303.2 254.91924 134 3,611 44.1 1.010 44.54 84.0 323.7 272.7

Female_____ __________________1926 175 4,407 44.2 1.012 44.73 84.2 324.4 273.91911 55 1,667 54.5 .192 10.43 104.4 94.1 98.21912 76 2,162 54.5 .187 10.20 104.4 91.7 96.01913 76 2,593 52.2 .204 10.62 100.0 100.0 100.01914 94 2,624 51.7 .214 11.10 99.0 104.9 10151919 109 4,001 48.1 .353 16.88 92.1 173.0 158.91922 84 3,538 43.9 .587 25.71 84.1 287.7 242.11924 U3 4,467 44.0 .591 26.00 84.3 289.7 244.81926 149 5,856 44.6 .612 27.30 85.4 300.0 257.1

2760727------2


6 MENS CLOTHING INDUSTRYT able 1.A V E R A G E HOTTRS A N D E AR N IN G S A N D IN D E X N U M B E R S OF A V E R A G E

F U L L -T IM E HOURS P E R W E E K , E AR N IN G S P E R H OU R, A N D F U L L -T IM E E AR N - INOS P E R W E E K , 1911 TO 1926, B Y Y E A R , O C C U PA TIO N , A N D S E X Continued

Year

Number of establish

ments

Number of em

ployees


perweek

Average

earningsper

hour

Aver-

t Xtimeearningsper

week.


Fulltimehours

perweek

Earningsper

hour

Fulltimeearningsper

week

1911 40 1,573 55.1 $0.240 $13.18 105.4 82.5 86.81912 57 2,027 55.4 .244 13.49 105.9 '83.8 88.81913 68 2,401 52.3 .291 15.19 100.0 100.0 100.01914 65 2,486 51.9 .290 14.99 99.2 99.7 98.71919 69 2,228 47.8 .541 25.73 91.4 185.9 169.41922 63 2,629 44.1 .869 38.41 84.3 298.6 252.61924 66 2,673 44.2 .934 41.28 84.5 321.0 271.81926 100 3,296 44.3 .933 41.33 84.7 320.6 272.11926 6 174 44.8 .470 21.06

1911 29 401 55.4 .250 13.84 105.9 80.9 85.71912 47 637 55.4 .271 14.99 105.9 87.7 92.91913 51 663 52.3 .309 16.14 100.0 100.0 100.01914 61 694 52.1 .290 15.08 99.6 93.9 93.41919 53 457 48.0 .546 26.01 91.8 176.6 161. 21922 59 641 44.0 .879 38.66 84.1 284.5 239.51924 79 728 44.4 .890 39.52 84.9 288.0 244.91926 92 872 44.6 .904 40.32 85.3 292.6 249. 31926 4 69 44.0 .529 23.28

1911 20 186 54.7 .263 14.37 104.4 80.2 83.61912 31 274 55.1 .275 15.10 105.2 83.8 87.91913 43 284 52.4 .328 17.18 100.0 100.0 100. ()1914 49 287 51.7 .323 1C. 69 98.7 98.5 97. 11919 42 247 48.0 .571 27. 31 91.6 174.1 159.01922 44 351 44.0 .899 39.72 84.0 274.1 231. 21924 61 373 44.1 .971 42.82 84.2 296.0 249. 21926 72 453 44.4 .941 41.78 84.8 287.0 243.11919 8 34 48.3 .335 16.061922 5 54 44.0 .593 25.661924 12 50 44.4 .507 22. 511926 13 61 44.5 .532 23.67

1911 64 2,160 55.1 .244 13.40 105.4 81.9 86. 21912 102 2,938 55. 4 .253 13.97 105. 9 84.9 89.81913 116 3,348 52.3 .298 15. 55 100.0 100.0 100.01914 137 3,467 51.9 .292 15.15 99.2 98.0 97.41919 127 2,932 47.8 .544 25.90 91.4 182.6 166. 61922 110 3,621 44.1 .873 38.58 84.3 293.0 248. 11924 149 3,774 44.2 .930 41.11 84.5 312.1 204. 41926 193 4,621 44.4 .928 41.20 84.9 311.4 2&>.01019 8 34 48.3 .335 16.061922 5 54 44.0 .593 25. 661924 12 50 44.4 .507 22. 511926 18 304 44.6 .495 22.08

1913 41 182 52.4 .312 17.91 100.0 100.0 100.01914 48 190 51.9 .343 17.74 99.0 100.3 99. 11919 49 182 47.8 .577 27.41 91.2 168. 7 153.01922 46 192 43.9 .966 42.40 83.8 282.5 236.71924 61 233 44.1 1.033 45.56 84.2 302.0 254.41926 92 258 44.2 1.041 46.01 84.4 301.4 256.91926 6 20 45.2 .473 21.36

1914 106 2,794 sa 1 .270 13.481919 61 423 47.9 .442 21.191922 90 2,222 44.1 .695 30.051924 122 2,370 44.4 .699 31.041926 158 2,499 44.4 .716 31.791914 84 1,685 51.5 . 147 7 171919 55 546 48.0 .300 14.301922 73 1,696 44.0 .416 18.271924 96 2,267 44.0 .424 18.661926 148 2,672 44.0 .429 18.88

80 13,751 54.4 .229 12.30 104.6 86.7 90.21912 117 18,168 54.7 .231 12.49 105.2 87.5 91.61913 133 19,874 52.0 .264 13.63 100.0 100.0 100,01914 153 20,118 51.0 .263 13.47 99.2 99.6 98.81914 153 24,597 51.3 .256 13.09 98.6 96.9 95. 81919 134 !19,919 47.9 . 446 21.08 92.6 173.5 159.51922 112 '25,013 44.1 .728 31.91 85.3 283.2 241.41924 152 127,681 44.1 .760 33.52 85.3 295.7 253.61926 198 |33,659 44.3 .750 33.23 85.7 291.8 251.4

Occupation and sex

Pressers, coat: Male______

Female.........Pressers, pants:

Male.............

Female___Pressers, vest:

Male..........

Female-

Total pressers: M ale..........

Female..

tfhapers, coat: M ale........

Female............Other employees:

M ale...............

Female-

Selected occupations..

All occupations...........


INTRODUCTION AND SUMMARY 7Table 2 presents by sex and cities average full-time hours per week,

average earnings per hour, and average full-time earnings,per week for all wage earners of all establishments covered in 1926.

Average full-time hours per week of males range from 42.1 for the 689 in Cincinnati to 50.5 for the 308 in the group of nine cities and towns in Eastern Pennsylvania outside of Philadelphia, and of females range from 40 for the 1,271 in Cincinnati to 49.4 for the 844 in eastern Pennsylvania outside of Philadelphia. The average for all males and females combined, or for the industry in each city, range from an average of 40.8 hours per week for the 1,960 in Cincinnati to 49.7 for the 1,152 in eastern Pennsylvania.

Average earnings per hour of males range from 50.5 cents for the 308 in eastern Pennsylvania outside of Philadelphia to SI.006 for the 3,856 in Chicago, and of females.range from 35.6 cents for the 844 in eastern Pennsylvania to 74.5 cents for the 3,547 in Chicago. The average for all males and females, or for the industry, range from 39.8 cents for the 1,152 in eastern Pennsylvania outside of Philadelphia to 88.6 for the 7,403 in Chicago.T a b l e 2 .N U M B E R OF E STA B LISH M E N TS A N D OF W AGR E A R N E R S A N D A V E R A G E

HOURS A N D E A R N IN G S, 1926, B Y SEX A N D C IT Y

Sex and city

Males:Baltimore..........................Boston.............................. .Buffalo...............................Chicago............................ .Cincinnati.........................Cleveland..........................New York.........................Philadelphia.....................Eastern PennsylvaniaRochester..........................81. Louis...........................

Total..

Females:Baltimore.......................Boston............................Buffalo............................Chicago...........................Cincinnati.......................Cleveland.......................New York............. .........Philadelphia..................Eastern Pennsylvania 1Rochester....................... .St. Louis........................ .

Total..

Males and females:Baltimore..........................Boston...............................Buffalo..............................Chicago............................ .Cincinnati.........................Cleveland..........................New York.........................Philadelphia.....................Eastern PennsylvaniaRochester..........................St. Louis...........................

Total..

Number o f -

Estab-lish-

ments

108

Employees

196

209585

9124115

14

198 j

1,078 807 241

3,856 689 519

6,876 1,121

308 1,152

401

17,048

1,912 649 499

3,547 1,271 1,681 2,461

878 844

2,143 726

16,611

Average full-time

hours per week

2,990 1,456

740 7,403 1,960 2,200 9,337 1,999 1,152 3,295 1,127

33,659

44.144.144.044.042.1 46.644.344.450.544.144.1

44.3

Average earnings per hour

44.244.044.044.040.046.0 44.644.0 49.444.344.1

44.3l

44.244.144.044.0 40.846.1 44. 444.2 49.744.2 i 44.1 |

44.3

$0,820 .896 .832

1.006 .873 .825 . 995 .821 . 505 .934 .742

.937

.416

.489

.511

.745

.526

. 566

.541

.440

.356

.591

.397

.548

Average full-time earnings per week

.570

.719

.619

.886

. 656

.629

.876

.660

.398

.716

. 522

.750

$36.16 39.51 36.61 44.26 36.7538.45 44.0436.45 25. 50 41. 19 32. 72

41.:>1

18. 3921. 5222. 48 32.78 21.01 26.04 24. 1319. 36 17. 59 26.18 17. 51

24.28

25. 19 31.71 27.24 38.9326. 76 29.00 38.89 29.17 19. 78 31.66 23.02

33.23

1 Exclusive of Philadelphia.


Average earnings of males in each city are considerably in excess of the earnings of females. In Baltimore, for example, the 1,078 males earned an average of 82 cents per hour, and the 1,912 females earned an average of 41.6 cents per hour.

Average full-time earnings per week of males range from $25.50 for the 308 in eastern Pennsylvania outside of Philadelphia to $44.26 for the 3,856 in Chicago, and of females range from $17.51 for the 726 in St. Louis to $32.78 for the 3,547 in Chicago. The average fulltime earnings per week for males and females combined, or for the industry in each city, range from $19.78 for the 1,152 in eastern Pennsylvania to $38.98 for 7,403 in Chicago.

AVERAGE AND CLASSIFIED EARNINGS PER HOUR

Table 3 shows for each of nine of the more important occupations and for each of the specified years, 1911 to 1926, the number of establishments, the number of employees, the average earnings per hour, and the per cent of employees earning each classified amount per hour.

Data are shown for males in all and for females in eight of these nine selected occupations. In the 1926 figures the males in these particular occupations represent 75 per cent of the total number of males covered by the study and the females represent approximately 70 per cent of the total number of females. The males and females combined represent 72.5 per cent of all employees covered (33,659). The primary purpose of this table is to show the trend in the classified rates or earnings per hour.

Reading line 1 of the table, it will be observed that data are shown for basters, coat, males, for 1911 for 30 establishments and 1,112 employees; that the average earnings per hour were 22 cents; that less than 1 per cent of the 1,112 employees earned 7 and under 8 cents per hour; 1 per cent earned 8 and under 9 cents; 1 per cent earned 9 and under 10 cents; 4 per cent earned 10 and under 12 cents; 5 per cent earned 12 and under 14 cents; 10 per cent earned 14 and under 16 cents; 11 per cent earned 16 and under 18 cents; 9 per cent earned 18 and under 20 cents; 25 per cent earned 20 and under 25 cents; 20 per cent earned 25 and under 30 cents; 11 per cent earned 30 and under 40 cents; 2 per cent earned 40 and under 50 cents; and less than 1 per cent earned 50 and under 60 cents per hour.

The figures for 1926 show that the lowest rate per hour begins almost as far up the scale as the highest rate ended in 1911. The very position of the figures makes the table graphic in effect.



T a b le 3 .AVERAGE AND CLASSIFIED EARNINGS PER HOUR FOR EMPLOYEES IN NINE SPECIFIED OCCUPATIONS, 1911 TO 1926, BY YEARAND SEX

Per cent of employees whose earnings per hour wereA ill-IT.XL


Number of establish

ments

Number of em

ployees

ageearningsper

hour

Under7

cts.

7 and under8

cts.

8andunder9

cts.

9 and under10

cts.

10andunder12

cts.

12andunder14

cts.

14andunder16

cts.

16andunder18

cts.

18andunder20

cts.

20andunder25

cts.

25andunder30

cts.

30andunder40

cts.

40andunder50

cts.

50andunder60

cts.

60andunder70

cts.

70andunder80

cts.

80andunder90

cts.

90cts.andunder$1

$1andunder

$1.25

$1.25andunder$1.50

$1.50andunder

$1.75

$1.75andunder$2

$2andover

Basters, coat:M ale_______________ 1911 30 1,112 $0,220 (*)

11 1

14 5 10 11 9 25 20 11 2 (>)

(*>1912 54 1,409 .215 1 5 6 9 11 11 26 16 13 0) 2 81913 48 1,588 .267 0) 1 2 4 5 7 7 21 21 251914 56 1,555 .257 0) 0) 2 5 4 7 8 22 23 24 251919 54 1,0431,4141,5411,710

603

.511 1 3 17 28 27 18 4 2 1 1 1922 48 .848 0) 0)

()0)11

2 4 7 12 15 15 2019

22 3

T able 3 .A V E R A G E A N D C LASSIFIED E A R N IN G S PER HOUR F OR EM PLOYEES IN NTNE SPEC IFIED OCCU PATION S, 1911 TO 1926, BY Y E A R AND H-*S E X Continued O

Number of establish

ments

Per cent of employees whose earnings per hour were


Number of em

ployees

ageearningsper

hour

Under

7cts.

7 and under8

cts.

8andunder9

cts.

9 and under10

cts.

10andunder12

cts.

12andunder14

cts.

14andunder16

cts.

16andunder18

CCS.

18andunder20

cts.

20andunder25

cts.

25andunder30

cts.

30audunder40

cts.

40andunder50

cts.

50andunder60

cts.

60andunder70

cts.

70andunder80

cts.

80andunder90

cts.

90cts.andunder$1

$1andunder

$1.25

$1.25andunder

$1.50

$1.50andunder

$1.75

$1.75andunder$2

$2andover

Hand sewers, coat:M ale........................... 1911 18 221 $0,204 2 1 1 5 10 10 14 13 20 11 11 1

1912 35 305 .212 () 1 f1) 6 6 8 12 10 30 18 8 11913 20 H i .253 1 4 3 3 8 7 10 15 15 26 *81914 33 317 .270 (> () 1 2 3 6 9 23 23 23 *91919 10 66 .446 2 9 26

144 9 5 2

103

112

1922 24 191 .898 2 4 6 4 32 27 ' " 4"1924 24 140 .856 1 4 37

1512

1918

1613

1412

22 51926 24 211 .888 1 2 29 5 1fem ale ..........__......... 1911 39 2,668 .155 2 3 4 8 13 15 14 11 9 15 4 1 0 )()1912 56 2,888 .153 2 2 4 6 16 16 15 13 9 12 4 11913 57 3,046 .179 (#) 1 3 9 14 15 14 13 19 7 4 41914 64 3,119 .177 *2 2 3 9 14 13 14 12 20 8 *3

1919 71 2,907 .334 0 ) 1 1 2 3 11 20 39 19 4 1

Operators, pants:M ale...............Female...........

Operators, vest:M ale________Female.......... .

Pressers, coat: M ale.............. .

Female.......Pressers, pants:

Male...........Female.......

Pressers, vest:Male______Female........

1926 i| 1920. :

' 1926 I 1926 !

1011 i 1012 191S 1914 1919 1922 1924 1926 1926

1926

1926

75 ! 1, 533 ! . 961 SO 2,317 ! . 576

55 i 58 ;

1057 58 :65 : 69 : 5366 ;

1006

924

7213

511 i 1,062 j 940 i .630 !

1,573 2,027 2,401 2,486 2,22* 2,629 2,673 3,296

174

872

45361

.240 i........j 0)

.244 ; (i) L__.

.291 i........I____

.290 ;........i____ 5 4 1 i....... L_._..869 *. 934 r. .938 L .470

.904 L.

.529 L.

.941 .1.

.532 L.

-I-

0)0)(l)) ! 0) : : : : : : : : : : ........

12 24 31 21 8 2 !! i 0)1 3 6 10 14 14 j 28 20 3 (0 0)1 2 4 6 9 14 22 37 3 0) 1 1 4 7 10 12 22 38 4 0)29 21 16 9 6 3 1 1

2 4 6 9 12 15 16 29 7 112 16 19 26 7 1 1 1

2 4 5 9 8 10 10 35 14 18 10 23 8 18 13

AVERAGE AND

CJLASSISIED EARNINGS

PER H

OU

R


The 1926 classified average earnings per hour for employees of the nine selected occupations in Table 3 range from 10 and under 12 cents for hand sewers, coats, female, to $2 and over for cutters, cloth, male, and operators, coat, male. The highest average earnings for females is in the group $1.50 and under $1.75, for basters, hand sewers, coat operators, and pants operators. The lowest average earnings for males is in the group 20 and under 25 cents, for basters, coat pressers, and vest pressers.

There are many subdivisions in the work of basting, hand sewing, machine sewing (operating), and pressing. As the classified earnings for each of these four occupations cover a very wide range, and as there may be some readers who desire to see to what extent the wide range is caused by the many subdivisions of the work, classified average earnings per hour are presented in Table 4 for employees of the most important subdivisions of the occupations of coat hand sewers, coat operators, and coat pressers. As there are very few male hand sewecs and female pressers no figures are shown for them.

The classified earnings for each of the various subdivisions of the occupations of coat hand sewers, coat operators, and coat pressers are of about the same range and therefore tend to disprove the theory that the wide range of classified earnings for each of these occupations is caused by the many subdivisions of the work in the occupation.

It will be observed, however, that there are material differences in the average earnings per hour of the employees in the subdivisions of these occupations. Under Operators, coat, male, the average earnings per hour in Chicago for pocket makers was $1,219 and for sleeve seamers 98.9 cents, while under Operators, coat, female, the average earnings per hour in the same city for pocket makers was $1 and for sleeve seamers 92.5 cents. There was thus a difference in the average earnings in these occupations of 23 cents for males, as compared with 7.5 cents for females. Practically all operators in Chicago are pieceworkers. The range in earnings per hour of such employees, therefore appears to be determined more by the amount of work doner or the number of operations or pieces finished in a given time than by any particular job or operation. From all information obtainable when the 1926 data were collected, it is safe to assume that the wide range in classified earnings per hour in basting, hand sewing, machine sewing, and pressing is due mainly to application and efficiency or productivity of the individual worker rather than to the piece rate for the particular job or operation.

12 MEN S CLOTHING INDUSTBY


2760727-

T a b le 4*AVERAGE AND CLASSIFIED EARNINGS PER HOUR OF EMPLOYEES IN SUBDIVISIONS OF COAT HAND SEWERS, COAT OPERATORS,A N D COAT PRESSERS, 1926, BY SE X A N D C IT Y

Number of establish-,

ments

Number of em

ployees

AverPer cent of employees whose earnings per hour were

Occupation, sex, city, and subdivision of occupation

ageearningsper

hour

Under20

cents

20and

under25

cents

25and

under30

cents

30and

under40

ccnts

40and

under50

cents

50and

under60

cents

60and

under70

cents

70and

under80

cents

80and

under90

cents

90centsand

under$1

$1and

under$1.25

$1.25and

under$1.50

$1.50and

under$1.75

j| $1.75I and under

$2

$2andover

HAND SEWERS, COAT, FEMALE

Baltimore:Fellers........................................................ 4 64 $0.465 3 8 5 14 25 30 11

65

Finishers................................................... 4 171 .362 15 11 15 26 15 12Buttonhole makers................................. 4 116 .411 5 7 8 29 27 14 8 3Button sewers.............. ............. ........... 4 33 .543 3 9 33 12 3 182

62

6 9Boston:Fellers........................................................ 7 63 .412 3 48 32 11 2Finishers................................................ 7 104 .454 3 33

23512

2118

918Buttonhole makers................................. 7 51 .689 24 16 4 8Button sewers.................. ............ .......... 6 12 .612 8 8 17 42 8 17Buffalo:

Fellers........................................................ 3 15 .446 40 27 33Finishers................................................... 4 51 .486 6 18 43 10 16 8Buttonhole makers................................. 4 27 .534 15 26 41 7 7 4Button sewers.......................................... 4 10 .470 20 60 20Chicago:Fellers........................................................ 4 67 .617 3 19 40

2511

16 _ 2 4 3(0 9

4Finishers................................................... 4 465 .655 0) 1 9 29

23202726

1216

3 (>( l)

1Buttonhole makers................................. 4 248 .780 1 2 9

9 (0Button sewers.......................................... 4 76 .734 3 5 12 26 12 5Cincinnati:Fellers........................................................ 3 13 .483 8 8 46 23 15Finishers................................................... 5 54 .425 6 4 15 17 20 20 15 2 2 IButtonhole makers................................. 4 12 .719 8 25 17 17 17 8 g ........... 1............Buttonhole sewers.................................. 5 25 .443 4 32 16 44 4

Cleveland:Fellers........................................................ 3 101 .574 2 11 14 31 27 15 1Finishers................................................... 3 48 .484 2 2 12 17 29 23 4 2 4 4Button sewers......................... ............... 3 36 .523 3 17 28 28 8 17* Less than 1 per cent.

AVERAGE AND

CLASSIFIED EARNINGS

PER H

OU

R


T a b le 4.A VE R AG E AND CLASSIFIED E ARN IN G S PER HOUR OF EM PLOYEES I NT SUBDIVISIONS OF COAT H AND SEWERS. COAT OPERATO RS ^AN D COAT PRESSERS, 1926, BY SEX AND C IT YContinued H-*

Num Num AverPer cent of employees whose earnings per hour were

ageearningsper

hour

[Occupation, sex, city, and subdivision of

occupationber of establish

ments

ber of em

ployees

Under20

cents

20and

under25

cents

25and

under30

cents

30 ! and I

under j 40

cents

40 and

1 under | 50

cents

50andunder

60cents

CO ! and

under 70

cents

70and

under80

cents/-

! 80 ' and und

Boston:Sleeve liners............................................ , i o !

! ! i .959 !! 1! ; ! !20 |Sleeve seamers. ...................................Lining makers.........................................Pocket makers................................... .

367

51432

; 1.048 1 ! i. 004 i 1 1. 161

........... ...........- - - --- !r

........3 '7 1 3 |

Joiners....................................................... 5 ]R . 060 i ____Sewers-in, sleeve..................................... 2 5 1. 238 i

Buffalo:Pocket makers......................................... 3 4 1.092 i j |Joiners....................................................... 2 2 .865 ! i " iShoulder closers....................................... 2 2 .801 i i !

Chicago:Sleeve seamens......................................... 2 6 .989

i ; i . . 1 !Lining makers......................................... 3 33 1.068 i........... i............ 3Pocket makers......................................... 4 73 1.219 i ' i ........... 1 1

15

Joiners....................................... 3 212345

1.212 . . . 14Sewers-in, sleeve.....................................

34

1.123 1.092 ........... ! t 4

9Cincinnati:

Sleeve seam ers....................................... 2 2 1.024 iPocket makers......................................... 3 27 1.006 4 4 4Shoulder closers....................................... 2 2 sw 1- -Sewers-in, sleeve..................................... 4 11 .904 ........... !............1............ 9New York:Sleeve liners.............................................. 12 16 .934

ij 6 13

Sleeve seamers....................... . 42 140 . 959 1 4Lining makers......................................... 42 126 1.033 i 1 ; 1 1

(') 1

1Pocket makers............... ........................ 47 305 1.097 - " - I ........... i . ! 0) 2Joiners...................... 43 148 1.024 ........... !............ 1Shoulder closers..................... 23 34 1.078 i 3 3Sewers-in, sleeve.......... 44 83 1.134 1 ........... !............ 1

Philadelphia:Sleeve Jiners............................ 2 2 .691 i !i 50Sleeve seamers............ 4 5 .773 ! 60Lining makers....................... 0 14 .888 _ r !........... 14 14Pocket makers................. 5 31 .991 1 : 6 6 1 0 jJoiners.............................. 5 11 1.100 i 9Shoulder closers................... 5 7 1.007 ........... i............ ____ j........... iSewers-in, sleeve............... 5 14 1.163 1

Rochester:3 19 1 116 i

. . . . . i . . . . .iSewers-in, sleeve..................... 4 17 1 06 r j 6

St. Louis:Pocket makers......................................... 8 11 .760 9 1 18Shoulder closers..................... 4 5 .575 40 40Sewers-in, sleeve................... 7 12 .748 25

i "Eastern Pennsylvania:2Sewers-in, sleeve..................................... 4 5 .808 20Baltimore and St. Louis:

Sleeve liners....... ..................................... 2 2 .471 50 1........... 50 |........... !

1112

452025

10 40 20 10 ! I14-3

33

20211622

80434128

136

!

1 J3_1 ......... 3 ............340 60 !i

25 25!

25|

50 i..............50 ! i

33 501I

18 15 33 IS 65 7 36 21 16 55 5 24 24 294 4 26 35 9

13 7 42 24 4

5026 4 30

5015 ji 4 4 4

27 18

1913 37 621 20 28 11 17 15 60 85 12 57 19 :: i

11 18 55 5 36 9 59 12 3

11 10 45 29 1 1ii

20 207 21 14 146 10 35 3: 3 39 64 i 9

14 14 29 1429 43 7 !i..............

16 5 37 32 : i1 12 41 29 ,........... i!...........

9 9 9

8 17 8 j

60 20!.......... ............1........

. . . . . i . . . . . 1. . . . .i Less than 1 per cent. 2 Exclusive of Philadelphia.

AVEEAGE AND

CLASSIFIED EARNINGS

PER H

OU

R


T a b le 4.A VE R A G E A N D CLASSIFIED E AR N IN G S PER HOUR OF EM PLOYEES IN SUBDIVISIONS OF COAT H A N D SEW ERS, COAT OPERATORS, t-uA N D COAT PRESSERS, 1920, B Y SEX A N D C IT Y Continued C*


Num ber of establish

ments

Number of em

ploy-

Average

earningsper

hour


Under20

cents

20and

under25

cents

25and

under30

cents

30and

under40

cents

40and

under50

cents

50and

under60

cents

60and

under70

cents

70and

under80

cents

80and

under90

cents

90centsand

under$1

$1and

under$1.25

$1.25and

under$1.50

$1.50and

under$1.75

$1.75and

under$2

$2andover

8 15 31 15 31i

11 33 22 22 11

50 25 25

14 71 14

7 13 7 13 40 13 7

830212030

8 331014

25 17 8109

20 10 207 25

3040

9 7 11 25020

111013

1 |9 9 17 39 9 4

1329

25 25 25 1329 43

20 20 20 20 2025 50 25

67 33

25 50 13 13i 25 25 50

10 20 40 20 106 19 25 31 13 6

50 25 25i i 17 33 17 17 17

o p e r a t o r s , COAT, m a le continued

Baltimore and Rochester:Sleeve seamers................................ ........

Cincinnati, Rochester, and St. Louis:Lining makers______________________

Cleveland, Rochester, St. Louis, and eastern Pennsylvania:2

Joiners_______ ______________________Boston and Rochester:

Shoulder closcrs___................. ...............Baltimore and Buffalo:

Sewers-in, sleeve____________________

OPERATORS, COAT, FEMALE

Baltimore:Sleeve liners_______ ____________ ___Sleeve seamers........ ..................... .........Pocket makers........................ ...............Joiners_____________________ ________Shoulder closers--------------------------------Sewers-in, sleeve------------- -----------------

Boston:Sleeve liners-------------- ------- ----------------Sleeve seamers______ _______________Lining makers_____ ________________Pocket makers........................... ...........Joiners.....................................................

Buffalo:Sleeve liners._______ _______________Sleeve seamers______________________Lining makers..................................Pocket makers---------------------------------Joiners______________________________Sewers-in, sleeve------------------------------

$0,894

.824

.708

1.108

1.029

121057101023

87543

8 !4 j

10 I 1 6 ;46 1

.585

.483

.477

.482

.415

.467

.526

.542

.606

.719

.558

.442

.551

.697

.819

.804

MEN'S

CLOTHING IN

DU

STRY


Chicago:Sleeve liners____________________Sleeve seamers____ _____________Lining makers---------------------------Pocket makers__________ _______Joiners___________ _____________Shoulder closers-------------------------Sewers-in, sleev_______________

Cincinnati:Sleeve seamers_________________Lining makers--------------- -------Pocket makers_____ ____________Joiners____________________ _____Shoulder closers_________ ______Sewers-in, sleeve------------------------

Cleveland:Sleeve liners____________________Sleeve seamers_______ ________Lining makers_________________Pocket makers_________________Joiners_______________ _______Shoulder closers---------------- --------Sewers-in, sleeve_______________

New York:Sleeve liners____________________Sleeve seamers_________________Lining makers------------------- -------Pocket makers_________________Joiners_________________________

Philadelphia:Sleeve seamers................................Lining makers................................Pocket makers................................Joiners................. ............................

Rochester:Sleeve seamers................................Lining makers................................Pocket makers................................Joiners..............................................Shoulder closers..............................

St. Louis:Sleeve liners....................................Sleeve seamers................................Lining makers................................Pocket makers................................Joiners..............................................Shoulder closers..............................Sewers-in, sleeve............................

1 Exclusive of Philadelphia.

4 22 .8284 52 .9254 35 1.0344 58 1.0003 19 1.0052 5 1.0093 8 .937

5 20 .4745 62 .5865 64 .8155 7 .5363 7 .5193 9 .792

2 7 .5583 20 .6093 24 .5993 34 .4173 19 .6853 15 .6483 21 .726

6 10 .6236 13 .6594 8 .7392 8 .6842 2 .903

3 4 .4864 7 .4283 11 .6152 2 .523

3 15 .6054 32 .8824 26 .7364 21 .7593 9 . 575

4 7 .41211 32 .43411 27 .4899 28 . 5054 9 . 5154 11 .4965 9 . 426

5 14 23 18 23 18.......4 2 6 13 13 25 33 4

3 9 20 6 49 143 2 3 14

1116 14 31 17

5 21 32 16 11 520 40 4013 25~ 13 38 13

35 20 25 1013

10103 35 24 5 8 2

5 11 11 28 13 13 13 6 214 14 57 1414 29 43

1114

44 11 11 22

14 14 29 29 145 5 5 25 35 25

8 4 33 42 1331 9 35 3 21 21 9

1 5 16 11 11 5 16 21 11 57 7 13

1427 33 13

55 5 19 24 10 19

30 10 20 408 8 8 15 23 15 8 8 8

13 25 37 2537 ' 13" 13 25

5013

50

25 7529 43 299 27 18 9 27 9

50 5027 20 7 13 13 7 13

13 25 6 6 16 31 312 23 27 12 8 4 12 4

5 10 33 14 19 5 1411 44 11 11 22

14 14 43 296 9 25 28 22 6 2 i______4 15 15 26 11 15 15

.14 32 32 11 4 122 44 11 11 11 !___ 19 45 36 9 !

11 i............ 11 56 11 22 1 ...... i.......

AVERAGE AND

CLASSIFIED EARNINGS

PER H

OU

R


T able 4 . -A V E R A G E A N D CLASSIFIED EARN IN G S PER HOUR OF EM PLOYEES IN SUBDIVISIONS OF COAT HAND SEW ERS, COAT OPERATORS,A N D COAT PRESSERS, 1920, BY SEX AND C IT Y Continued 00


o p e r a t o r s , c o a t , f e m a l e continued

Eastern Pennsylvania:*Sleeve seamers.......................................1ock et makers.....................- ................Joiners.....................................................Shoulder closers.....................................Sewers-in, sleeve...................................

Baltimore and eastern Pennsylvania:3Lining inakeis.......................................

Boston and Rochester:Sewers-in, sleeve...................................

Buffalo, New York, and Philadelphia:Shoulder closers..... .........................

Philadelphia and eastern Pennsylvania: Sleeve liners............................................

PRKSSERS, COAT, MALE

Baltimore:I.iuing pressors.......................................Umlor pressers.......................................Edge pressers.........................................Oft pressers.............................................

Boston:Lining pressers......................................U nder pressers.......................................Edge pressors.........................................Off pressers.............................................

Buffalo:Lining pressers......................................Under pressers.......................................Edge pressers.........................................Oil pressers.............................................

Number of establish

ments

Number of em

ployees

5 11 $0.3216 26 . 413G J4 .5163 7 .4194 9 .483

6 15 . 353

2 12 .637

3 4 .701

4 4 .297

2 8 . 6052 53 . 7212 8 1.0263 108 .988

4 18 .7475 2fl .8115 11 .8096 02 1.057

4 8 .6833 8 . 6763 4 .7204 31 .780

Average

earningsper

hour


Under20

cents

20 ;and I

under 25

cents

i| 25 I and under

M). cents 1

30and

under40

cents

40 and

under j 50 j cents

50and

under

Chicago:i.ining pressors...........I'tidiT .ores^-rs.........Edge propers............Off pressors.................

Cincinnati:Lining pressers...........Under pressers...........Edge pressers.............Off pressers.................

Cleveland:Lining pressers...........Under pressers...........Off pressers........ ........

New York:Lining pressers...........Under pressers...........Edge pressers..............Off pressers...............

Philadelphia:Lining pressers...........Under pressers............Edge, pressers..............Off pressers..................

Rochester:Lining pressers...........Under pressers............Oft pressers.................

St. Louis:Lining pressers...........Under pressers............Edge pi-ossefs..............Off pressers...... ...........

Eastern Pennsylvania:*Lining pressers...........Under pressers______Edge pressers..............Off pressers.................

Cleveland and Rochester: Edge pressers..............

140)

147 40

18

15 I

95

14131817

81-i5

10

29274/517

1217y

15

3543:if.m

139

28

12K

231

14

2 !...........14 ..............

1151

112

242

1710178

141

1152

13177

38122

11104

141411217 16 1118

75 4

11295

3225

55

83161719

14118

111912

27242316

191734

1435

550

192648

126

13

1430

221375

50235014

37

33 :

131250

5017

38

29

507

224 42

3

" Y25

* Exclusive of Philadelphia

*2

AVERAGE AND

CLASSIFIED EARNINGS

PER H

OU

R


REGULAR OR CUSTOMARY HOURS OF OPERATION

The regular or customary full-time hours of an establishment are the hours of operation when the establishment is working its recognized standard or customary hours per day or week; in other words, the time between the usual time of beginning work in the morning and of closing in the afternoon less the regular time off duty for the midday lunch or dinner. The hours of different establishments may and often do differ on account of difference in time of beginning and quitting work, of amount of time taken at noon, or of a short workday on Saturday or other week day. For these reasons the hours per day may differ for different establishments while the hours per week may be the same.

The regular full-time hours per week as presented in the tables of this report do not in any way indicate the amount of employment or unemployment during the pay periods covered in any of the years for which data are shown. Some employees may have worked more than full time during the pay period taken, due to overtime, while others may have worked less than full time on account of having been sick, disabled, or laid off part time, or of having been in service less than full time on account of termination of service before the end of the pay period covered or of having entered service after the beginning of the period.

The amount of employment in the establishments covered is indicated by comparison of average full-time hours per week with average hours actually worked in one week, which averages are shown in parallel columns in Table A (pp. 35 to 41). The average in one column shows the customary hours of operation of the establishments, while the average in the other column shows what was actually done.

Table 5 shows for each of nine specified occupations and for each of the years 1911 to 1926 for which data are shown, the number of establishments, the number of employees, the average full-time hours per week, and the per cent of employees working each classified number of full-time hours per week. The figures are presented in General Table C (p. 48) for each city covered in 1926.

In reading the percentage distribution of the employees in each of the occupations except cutters, it will be observed that in the years1911 to 1914 the full-time hours of 63 per cent or more of them were 51 or more per week, and that in the years 1919 to 1926 the full-time hours of more than 80 per cent of the employees covered in each year were 48 or less per week.

The full-time hours of basters, coat, male, decreased from an average of 55.3 per w^ eek in 1911 to 44.3 in 1926. The percentage distribution of these basters shows that the hours of 93 per cent of the basters covered in 1911 and 91 per cent of the number covered in1912 were 54 or more per week (8 per cent in 1911 and 10 per cent in 1912 were 60 per week), that in 1913 and 1914 the hours of 74 per cent were over 48 and under 54 per week and the hours of the others were 54 per week; that in 1919 the hours of 16 per cent were 44, of 79 per cent were 48, and of 5 per cent were over 48 and under 51 per week; and that in 1922 the hours of 93 per cent, in 1924 the hours of 90 per cent, and in 1926 the hours of 92 per cent of the basters were only 44 per week. The highest hours of 95 per cent or more of the



REGULAR OR CUSTOMARY HOURS OF OPERATION 21basters covered in each of the years 1919 to 1926 were less than the lowest hours of any of the employees covered in any of the years 1911 to 1914.

In 1911 the full-time hours of 48.1 per cent of all employees in the9 specified occupations were 54 per week, of 36.8 per cent were over 54 per week, and of 15.1 per cent were under 54 per week. In 1922 the full-time hours of 94.2 per cent were 44 per week, 2.2 per cent were under 44 per week, and 3.6 per cent were over 44 per week. Since 1922 there has been little change in full-time hours. In 1926 the full-time hours of 86 per cent of the employees in these occupations were 44 per week, of 11.6 per cent were over 44 per week, and of 2.4 per cent were under 44 per week.T a b l e 5 . A VE R AG E A N D CLASSIFIED FU LL-TIM E HOURS PER W EEK , IN N IN E SPEC

IF IE D OCCUPATION S, 1911 to 1926, B Y OCCUPATION , SEX, A N D Y E A R

Numberof

establish

ments

Numberof

employees

AverPer cent of employees whose full-time hours per week were

Occupation, sex, and year

agefulltimehoursper

week35 40

Over40

andunder44

44 45

Over45

andunder48

48

Over48

andunder51

51andunder54

54

Over54

andunder57

57andunder60

60

Basters, coat, male: 1911 ............... 30 1,112 55.3 7 42 38 5 81912 ............... 54 1,409

1,588 1, 555

55.7 9 35 32 15 101913......................... 48 52. 5 13 61 261914......................... 56 52.1 24 50 251919......................... 54 1,043

1,41447.5 16 79 5 0)

1922 ................... 48 44.3 0)(1)

93 0) 71924........... ............. 00 1,541

1,710

603

44.4 90 10 0)2

(l)192#j......................... 78 44.3 0) 92 6 0)

Basters, coat, female: 1911......................... 36 55.2 2 61 21 2 131912 ................... 50 i 839 55. 5 3 52 23 6 161913......................... 38 | 919 52.4 6 75 201914......................... 51 ! 812 51.7 35 45 201919......................... 58 j 1,030

1 94947.9 6 89 5

1922.*........................ 45 43.8 8 90 1 21924......................... 53 jl, 168

; 1.43643.2 i " 80 4 3 1

1926......................... 74 43.8 8 80 2 3 7Cutlers, cloth, hand

and machine, male: 1911............... !39 il. R46 49.9 69 1 4 23 2 11912 52 :2 012 49.8

49.01 67

653 1 25 2

1913......................... 53 2,007 11,931I,576II,975

! 22 9 23 11914......................... 53 48. 6 ! 22 72 20 4 21919......................... 63 47.7 1 R 0 )

0)93 1 0 )

1922......................... 45 44.0 1 1 97 1 21824......................... 57 1,984

! 1,880!1i 221

44.2 ! 97 (0 2 0)21 !

1920......................... 82

18 I

44.2 3 91 C>" (l) 2 0)

7

1Hand sowers, coat,

mate:1911......................... 55.8 32 38 7 171912......................... 35 i 305 56.2 i 10 20 35 21 141913.......................... 20 !i 144 52.1 15 69 161914.......................... 33 i 317 52.1 19 60 211919.......................... 10 66 47.8 8 89 31922......................... 24 191 44.0 99 11924.......................... 24 140 44.0 1 991926.......................... 24 211 44.3 1 91 7 1

Hand sewers, coat, female:

.1911.......................... 39 2.668 54.8 4 61 28 4 41912.......................... 56 i2.888 55.2 0 ) 7 50 24 11 71913.......................... 57 i 3,046

13,119 2.907 3.063

52.1 (a) 0 ) 18 67 141914.......................... 64

7 1 ;53 '

51.7 (2) 30 57 121919.......................... 47.8 8 0 )

186" 6 0 )

1922.......................... 44.2 1 92 0 ) 61924......................... 67 i2,968

100 13,97344.1 T 88 6 2 0 )

1926......................... 44.4 l 88 0 ) 1 6 51 Less than 1 per cent.* Less than 1 per cent and classified in 1913 and 1914 reports as Under 48.

2760727------4


22 MEN S CLOTHING INDUSTRYT a b l e 5 . A VE R A G E A N D CLASSIFIED FU LL-TIM E HOURS PE R W EE K , TN N IN E SPEC -

IFIE D O C C U PA TIO N S, 1911 to 1926, BY OCCUPATION , SEX, A N D Y E A R Continued

Numberof

establish

ments

Numberof

employees

AverPer cent of employees whose full-time hours per week were


agefulltimehoursper

week35 40

Over40

andunder44

44 45

Over45

andunder48

48

Over 48

and under 51 :

151

andunder54

i ;jOver, 1 54 !

r%4 i and 1)4 j un- i

i der 57 :

! 57 and under 60

60

Operators, coat, male: 1911......................... 31 913 5 s) 9

1

5 J24 j 41 7 17181912......................... 53 1,3641,8261,5221,6031,785

56 ?, 10 31 181913. ...................... 55

626350

5? 5 20 : 47 32 11914......................... 51 9 31 44 25 !1919......................... 47 ft 12 84 4 0 ) 0 )1922.......................... 44 1 1 95 0) 41924......................... 61 1.911 44 1 1 93 5 0) (*) 0 )1926......................... 92 12.363 44 1 2 94 0) 0 ) 4 (i)

Operators, coat, female:

1911......................... 34 756 54 9, 7 77 14 81912.......................... 44 949 54 3 1 7 74 15 2" 21913......................... 37 1,077 5?. 1 __1__ (*) 11 73 151914......................... 46 1,114 51 8 __|___ 26 60 141919......................... 60 2,086 48 1 0) 3 1 84 13 0)1922......................... 42 1.603 43 9 5 92 !! 1 2 ___ i1924......................... 50 2.126 i 43.6 " T 82 3 5 1 !1926......................... 77 2,599 44 4 4 77 1 3 2 12 1 :

Operators, pants, male: 1911.......................... 20 439 56.8 1 6 26 23 23 221912.......................... i 40 ! 890 56.5 ; 4 27 : 30 27i 121913.......................... ! 37 796 52. 6 i 18 45 371914.......................... ! 45 827 52.6 1 i 12 54 31 : 21919.......................... ! 39 : 53S 47.7 7 i 4 1 ! 84 2 2 ; (1)1922.......................... ! 50 1.084 44.1 1 98 21924.......................... I 69 l 262 44.2 0 ) 97 0 ) 1 2 ___ i........ j____192C.......................... i 75 1,533 44.3 1 1 93 (1) !

3 3Operators, pants, fe

male:1911.......................... ! 26 599 54.8

j10 , 57 22 5

1912.......................... I 39 806 54.8 () 6 58 241 ; 6

61913.......................... 1 40 1, 048 52.3 (*) 12 62 : 251914.......................... 48 . 999 51.8 31 50 19 11919.......................... ! 51 1, 371

1,341 1,603 2,317

109

' 48.2 3 .( , 0 )

I___ (*)1922.......................... 53

66100

44.1 2 94 (>) i 41924.......................... ! 44.2 3 91 1 5 1 L .. . 0) \ 0) I1926.......................... ; 44.3 1 i 91 : 0) 0) ; 3 4

1.. () 1 0) 1

1 Less than 1 per cent.2 Less than 1 per cent and at 39 hours per week.* Less than 1 per cent and classified in 1913 and 1914 reports as Under 48/' < Less than 1 per cent and at 44.4 hours per week.


REGULAR OR CUSTOMARY HOURS OF OPERATION 23T able 5 .A V E R A G E A N D CLASSIFIED F U LL-TIM E HOURS P E R W E E K , IN N IN E SPE C

IF IE D O C C U PA TIO N S, 1911 to 1926, B Y O C C U PA TIO N , SEX, A N D Y E A R Continued


Numberof

establish

ments

Numberof

employees

A veragefulltimehoursper

week

Per cent of employees whose full-time hours per week were

35 40

Over40

andunder44

44 45

Over45

andunder48

48

Over48

andunder51

51andunder54

54

Over54

andun-dor57

57andunderGO

60

79 13 8

7 47 24 12 95 45 30 17 4

13 67 20 (>124 51 24

6 2 0) 77 11 2 11 1 98 12 89 1 3 6 ()2 (> 84 " T 0) 0 9

100

5 55 29 113 50 31' 10 "5

10 ! 66 21 435 47 15 2

7 77 173 ! 94 2 12 95 2 12 84 l 3 7 4

82 1810090 8 ! 2

___ j o 2 89 2 i 81

Pressers, coat, female:1926............: ...........

Pressers, pants, male:191 1 .191 2 191 3 .19J4..........................1919........................ .1922........................ .1924........................ .1926..........................

Pressors, pants, female:1926..........................

Prossers, vests, male:191 1 191 2 191 3 191 4 1919..........................1922_........................1924..........................1926..........................

Pressers, vests, female:1939..........................1922..........................1924..........................1926..........................

174 44.8

401 i 637 j 663 ! 694 ! 457 | 641 ! 728 872

186274284287247351373453

55.455.452.3 52.148.044.044.444.6

44.0

54.755.152.451.748.044.044.144.4

34 48.3 54 44.0 50 44.4 61 I 44.5

1 Less than 1 per cent. 5 Full time 39M hours per week.

Table 6 shows the regular or customary hours per day and per week and the number and per cent of employees working each specified number of customary full-time hours per week. The regular or customary full-time hours per week as shown in the table range from 35 for 558 females to 55 for 23 males and 54 females. The full-time hours of 28,846 employees, or approximately 86 per cent of the 33,659 employees covered in 1926, were 44 per week. Of the 33,659 covered in the study 9,084 were in establishments with a five-day week of 44 full-time hours; 192 were in establishments with a five-day week of 48 full-time hours; and 390 were in establishments with a five-day week of 50 full-time hours. Full-time hours ranged from 7 to 10 per day and from 35 to 55 per week. The regular full-time hours of 168 of the 198 establishments included in the study were 44 hours per week, and the hours of part of the employees in four other establishments were 44 per week. It is thus seen that the full-time hours are the same for all employees in a great majority of the establishments. In a few. however, the hours were not the same in all shops. For example, the iull-time hours of the employees in the cutting and coat shops of one were 44 per week while the hours of the employees in the pants and vest shops were 48 per week.


24 MEN S CLOTHING INDUSTRYT ablb 6 .N U M B E R A N D P E R C E N T OF W A G E E A R N ER S W O R K IN G EACH SP E C IF IE D

N U M B E R OF F U L L -T IM E HOURS P E R W E E K A N D P E R D A Y , 1926

Full-time bours per week

35 hours___40 hours___43% hours.

44 b ou rs ...

Total, 44 hours.

4 4^ ............45 hou rs... 45% hours. 46K hours . 47lA hours.

48 hou rs...

Total, 48 hours.

48V hours. 48% hours. 49M hours.

60 h ou rs...

Total, 50 hours..

50Yt hours. 50^ hours. 52 h ou rs... 52H hours .54 h ou rs...55 h ou rs...

Grand total..

Full time hours per day

: Monday to Thurs

day

Friday

8 %84f 8 H8/i m

9SHmm

s h98%mm

Saturday

Wage earners working each srocified number of hours per week and per day

Number

Males Females Total

31610

m\ 98%\ 8*/9 | 8SH\ 8*88/i 8h m

910

910

9Kj 9 h9Xi 9H9 : 9m . 9H

io : 1010 i 10

9,197 5,079

117 21

360 95

509

15,378

y444

4M

4K7545

49244

621

23132

583

2984317

10,565 2,103

27 25

669

........ 79'

Males Females Total

55831622

19,762 7,182

144 46

1,029 95

588

13,468 28,846

5912129

169

2228714

317160

800 1,

1997

14441

193

2713312021

548192

703 i 1,001 117 I lfiO

7 i 24

100

166

17,048

175290

241390

465 ; 631

29

54

16,611 33,659

Per cent of total wage earners

0.9(0

1.7

0)27.3 ,15.1 ,

.3 j

.1 i1.1 !.3 j

1.5 :

31.46.2.1.1

2.0

.245.7 40.0

(0 , . 1 .1 : 0).1

0)

. 1

.70)

.1

.7

.1

0)

.5

1.7 2.4

.2

.3

.5 1.4

0).1

0).1. 1. 150.6

1.7.U. 1

58. 7 21.3

.4 . 1 3.1 .3

1.7

85.7

.3

.4

. 1

.0

.8 1.0 . 1 .1

1.6 .6

2.1 !.3 i

0)

4. 1

3.0 . 5. 1

: S ! .71.21.9

oT~

. 1

" T !

-I 0) .1.1

49.4 | 100.0

Less than one-tenth of 1 per cent.* Thursday, 9 hours.*Tuesday, 9 hours.

CHANGES IN WAGE RATES SINCE JULY 1, 1924

Very few of the approximately 300 establishments in the mens clothing industry from which monthly reports on employment have been received by the bureau have reported wage changes between July 1, 1924, and July and August, 1926. Some of the few made increases to part or all of their employees, and others made decreases. The combination of increases and decreases did not materially affect the wage rates or earnings of the employees in the industry during the period July 1, 1924, to July and August, 1926.


PAY FOR OVERTIME AND FOR SUNDAYS AND HOLIDAYS 25 BONUS SYSTEMS

Only six of the 198 men's clothing establishments covered in 1926 had bonus systems in operation any part or all of the period between July 1, 1924, and July and August, 1926. They were as follows:

1. Production. The weekly earnings of the foreman of a coat shop at his regular rate were increased by a bonus of 5 cents for each coat produced in excess of 300 per week.

2. Earnings and service. The earnings at regular rates of all employees in service six months or more, except those in the cutting shop, were increased 5 per cent.

3. Service and attendance. The service bonus was 5 cents, or multiple of 5 cents, extra for each day of work, according to the years of service after the first year; that is, 5 cents for each day of work in second year of service; 10 cents for each day of work in the third year; 15 cents for each day of work in the fourth year; 20 cents for each day of work in the fifth year, etc. The attendance bonus was10 cents per day after the second day of service, provided employee was not tardy or did not leave the factory without permission.

4. Service or vacation.Vacation with pay of 1 week or 10 days in summer and of 1 week or 2 weeks during Christmas holidays. The one week in summer was for employees who were in service at the beginning of summer and the 10 days were for those of longer service. The one week at Christmas was for employees who entered service after November 1, and the two weeks for those in service on or before November 1.

5. Service. The earnings at regular rates of all employees, except in the cutting shop, were increased 6 per cent during second 6 months of service, 8 per cent during second year, 10 per cent during third year, 12 per cent during fourth year, and 15 per cent after the fourth year.

6. Time saving and 'production.A fixed or standard time is allocated for the cutting of a specified number of garments. Any cutter who cut the specified number of garments in less than the standard time was paid for the time consumed in the cutting at his regular rate and was also paid for one-half of the time saved. Example: The standard was 60 garments in 1 hour, and an employee whose rate was $1.20 per hour or 2 cents per minute cut the 60 garments in 50 minutes, thus saving 10 minutes. He was paid $1 for the 50 minutes, and was also paid for one-half of the 10 minutes saved or 5 minutes at 2 cents per minute, making his earnings $1.10 for the 50 minutes' work. Other cutting-shop employees were paid a bonus based on the total bonus earned by cutters, the bonus being prorated according to the weekly time rates of such cutting-shop employees. Trimmers received a bonus based on production in the trimming room. This bonus was distributed among the trimmers according to their weekly time rates.

PAY FOR OVERTIME AND FOR SUNDAYS AND HOLIDAYS

Between July 1, 1924, and the time of the 1926 study 32 of the 198 establishments covered paid employees extra for any time worked over the regular or customary full-time hours per day or per week and for work on Sundays and holidays. One of the 32 establishments paid one and one-fourth times the regular rate for overtime


2 6 MEN S CLOTHING INDUSTRY

work and for work on Sundays and holidays, 18 paid one and one- half times the regular rate for overtime and work on Sundays and holidays, 10 paid one and one-half times the regular rate for overtime to time workers only, 2 paid one and one-half times the regular rate for overtime to employees in the cutting shop only, and 1 establishment paid $1.50 per hour for overtime to employees on a 48-hour week basis and $1.61 per hour for overtime to employees on a 44-hour week basis for overtime and work on Sundays and holidays. The regular rate was paid for overtime by 166 establishments. The great majority of the establishments included in the study reported little or no overtime and work on Sundays and holidays.

EXPLANATION OF SCOPE AND METHOD

The wage data for this bulletin are from establishments engaged in making mens outer garments coats, pants, vests, and overcoats for the trade, or what is commonly know^ n as men's ready-made clothing. Special-order and merchant-tailor establishments are not included, but all kinds of mens ready-made clothing, from cheap to high grade, are covered by the figures of this report.

An establishment, as used in this report, includes the wage earners of a group of shops under one ownership, or of a single shop. There are two distinct types of establishments in the clothing industry: (1) The establishment that finances the business, buys the material, cuts the cloth, sells the finished product (garments), and which may or may not operate shops in which the garments are made; (2) the contract shop or contractor who receives the cut cloth and the trimmings from the establishment that finances the business, etc., and makes the garments at a piece price. The contractor has his own force of employees, whom he pays from his gross piece-price earnings, his own machinery, and generally his own workroom.

A contractors shop is counted a separate establishment, and each cutting, coat, pants, and vest shop of an establishment is counted a separate shop.

Chicago, Rochester, Baltimore, Cleveland, and St. Louis establishments manufacture practically all garments in their own shops, little or no work being let out to contractors. In other cities, however, many establishments let the making of all or a considerable part of their product to contractors.

Data were obtained in 1926 from 26 establishments that cut and make coats, pants, and vests; from 13 that cut and make coats and pants; 1 that cuts and makes coats and vests; 30 that cut and make coats; 1 that cuts and makes pants and vests; 7 that cut and make pants; 5 that cuts garments but do not make any; 1 that makes coats, pants, and vests; 1 that makes coats and pants; 3 that make coats only; 2 that make pants and vests; and 2 that make pants only. Data were also obtained from 106 contractors as follows: 23 coat shops, 41 pants shops, 1 pants and vest shop, and 41 vest shops. It was necessary to cover contract shops in some cities in order to get a representative number of wage earners working on each kind of garment.

The data for a fewT large establishments are for only a part of the total number of employees or shops of such establishments, as the inclusion of all wage earners of such establishments would have tended to give undue wreight to such establishments and therefore


EXPLANATION OF SCOPE AND METHOD 27to impair the representative character of the averages for the cities in which the establishments and shops are located.

In selecting establishments from which to obtain data the bureau undertook to represent all cities in which the manufacture of men's clothing is of material importance, the measure of importance being the number of wage earners as reported by the United States Census of Manufactures.

Table 7 which follows, shows by cities the number of wage earners in the industry as reported by the United States census in 1923, and the number of establishments, shops, and employees for which 1926 data are presented in this bulletin.T a b l e 7 . N U M B E R OF W AG E E A R N E R S IN M E N 'S C LO TH IN G IN D U S T R Y IN TH E

U N IT E D STATES A C C O R D IN G TO 1923 CENSUS, A N D N U M B E R OF E STA B LISH M E N TS, SHOFS, A N D E M P L O Y E E S FOR W H ICH D A T A A RE SHOW N FOR 1926, B Y C IT Y

City

Number of wage

earners reported

by United

Establishments, shops, and employees for which data are shown by the Bureau of Labor Statistics for 1928

States Census Office 1923

Number of estab

lishmentsNumber of

shopsNumber of employees

New York____________________________________________ 38,100 29, 111 10,983 9.792

91 137 9,337 7.403 3,295 1,999 2,993 1,960 1,466 2,200 1,127

740

C hicago______________________________________________ 5 21Rochester_____________________________________________ 5 16Philadelphia__________________________________________ 24 32Baltim ore_____________. . . __________________ _____ . . . 9,080

7,034 5,286 4,816 4, 785 2,083

(*)73,750 j

6 16Cincinnati__ . . . . _____________________________________ 8 20B o sto n __ . . . . . . . . . . ____________ ____________ ______ _ 20 34Cleveland.................................................._............................ 5 13St. Louis______________________________________________ 14 33B u ffa lo ..................................................................................... 9 16TCastrn Pnnnsvlvania. axolusiVA of Philadelnhia 11 21 1,152Other cities__________ ..............

Total 194,820 198 359 j| 33,659

i N ot including wage earners in establishments each of which had annual production valued at less than $5,000.

* Included in Other cities.

Data for this industry are presented by cities instead of by States (the State being the unit in most industries covered in the bureaus wage studies), because the great majority of the wage earners in the clothing industry are in a few large cities. In 1923, as shown in the above table, there were 194,820 wage earners in the industry, of which 121,070, or 62 per cent, were employed in the 10 cities, not including the eastern Pennsylvania district, for which 1926 data are shown.

The bureau in its report for 1922 and for other years prior to 1924 presented wage data for employees of establishments in a few largo cities, namely, New York, Chicago, Rochester, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Cincinnati, and Boston, because, according to the United States Census of Manufactures, 60 to 70 per cent of the total number in the industry was in these cities. There has been in recent years, to some extent, a moving of establishments or shops of establishments from the larger cities, especially from Philadelphia, to smaller places. Because of this and of the increased importance of the industry in the cities and towns in eastern Pennsylvania the 1924 and 1926 studies include a group of nine small cities in eastern Pennsylvania. The 1926 study includes data for three citiesBuffalo, Cleveland, and St. Louisthat were not included in the 1924 study.


28 MEN S CLOTHING INDUSTRYThe 33,659 employees for which 1926 detailed figures are shown in

the various tables of this report are 17 per cent of the total number of wage earners in the industry in the United States in 1923, and 27.8 per cent of the total number in the industry in the 10 cities in 1923. The 1923 census does not report separate data for eastern Pennsylvania exclusive of Philadelphia. Data for this group of cities and towns are included in Other cities.

There are usually two busy and two dull seasons in the year in the manufacture of men's ready-made clothing. The busy seasons are midsummer and midwinter. In midsummer clothing is made for fall and winter wear, and in midwinter for spring and summer wear. In some establishments there is a fairly uniform amount of work throughout the year; in others work fluctuates materially. The fluctuation is heavier in contract shops. Some shops close down in the dull seasons, or run with a reduced force, or are operated at less than the regular or customary hours per day and week.

Coats (including overcoats), pants, and vests are made in separate shops. While employees go from one establishment to another, as in any line of manufacture, they seldom change from the making of one garment to another. A pants-shop employee, for example, seldom changes to work in a coat shop. The shops making the different garments are kept separate in the tables.

As a rule a clothing-shop employee performs only a single operation or a limited number of operations in the making of a garment. In a highly systematized shop the garment passes from hand to hand, each person doing on it his particular division of the work. There are wide variations in the extent of specialization in different shops, however, as in some shops the making of a garment may be limited to a few persons. While there arc many operations in the making of a garment, they may be divided into a few distinct or nearly distinct occupation groups, the principal groups being cutters, fitters, sewing-machine operators, pressers, basters, hand sewers, examiners, shapers, and bushelers and tailors. In this study any person found working at two or more occupations interchangeably is classified at the occupation at which he worked the longest time during the pay period covered. Such overlapping as occurs is generally between basters and hand sewers and between hand sewers and tailors.

Prior to 1914 data were taken for the above specified occupations only. In 1914, 1919, 1922, 1924, and 1926, however, data were obtained for all employees in the establishments except executives, foremen, clerks, etc., and, in addition to the selected occupations presented heretofore, data are shown in the general tables for all other employees as a group.

Several of the occupations are subdivided in the tables, making 17 classifications, as follows:Rasters, coat. Hand sewers, vest.

For descriptions of these occupations the reader is referred to Bulletin No. 135 of this bureau (pp. 30 to 34).

Rasters, pants.Basters, vest.Bushelers and tailors.Cutters, cloth, hand and machine. Examiners, shop and stock room. Fitters or trimmers, coat.Hand sewers, coat.Hand sewers, pants.

Operators, coat. Operators, pants.Operators, vest. Pressers, coat. Prossers, pants. Pressers, vest. Shapers, coat.


EXPLANATION OF SCOPE AND METHOD 29Cutting

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