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B&O M53/M53A “Wagontop” Boxcar (1945 – ca. 1979)

(HO Scale)

NOTE This HO scale kit was designed by Smoky Mountain Model Works, Inc. exclusively for Wright Trak Models using 3D CAD/Solid Modeling and Rapid Prototyping technology. Castings were produced using industrial grade, tinted polyurethane resin. Information provided by the B&OHS, several B&O modelers and (2) field trips to a “grounded” M53 body in a Tennessee scrap yard. Decal artwork provided by John Frantz; extra decals available from him in HO and S (email jimking3@charter.net for his contact info).

INTRODUCTION This kit contains cast polyurethane parts to speed assembly and is considered an upper-level “craftsman kit” due to the highly-detailed underframe and forming your own grab irons. Only patience and basic hobby tools are needed to produce a top quality finished product. Tools required to complete this kit include a flat working surface, assorted small files, hobby knife with #11 blade, miscellaneous drill bits, fast-set CA glue, wire forming pliers, and fine-point tweezers. WARRANTY: SMMW will replace any part(s) found to be defective due to manufacturing or shipping. Send the damaged part(s) to us for replacement and include $7.00 shipping to cover USPS Priority Mail return. LIABILITY: SMMW will not be held liable for personal injury or health problems, short term or long term, resulting from the use and/or misuse of tools, adhesives, material, castings, paints or any other product(s) used to construct this kit. This kit is recommended for builders over age 15. WARNING: This kit contains polyurethane castings. Although non-toxic in its cured state, dust created during filing and sanding may cause temporary respiratory problems if air circulation or ventilation is not provided. Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area. Wear a dust mask or respirator and safety glasses for maximum protection. Wash hands when finished, especially before eating.

COMMENTS ON THE PROTOTYPE Note: Either an M53 or the updated M53A can be built from this kit (the model photos represent an M53A). You will note (2) rows of rivets running the car’s length between the ribs, located at each rounded “corner”. To model an M53, remove all of these rivets. To model an M53A, leave these rivets as-cast and add a rivet strip (from the detail sheet) to each end. Prototype photos of both versions are provided at the end of these instructions and in the RPC referenced below. A very complete history of the B&O “wagontop” boxcar evolution was printed in Volume 9 of the Railway Prototype Cyclopedia. Due to copyright restrictions, these cannot be reproduced here. Contact Ed Hawkins at http://www.rpcycpub.com or the B&O Historical Society at http://www.borhs.org/shopping/index.html and order item no. 10060. In-service quantities provided by Jim Mischke and the B&OHS. Increase in M53 quantities due to 125 express cars being converted back to freight service. See RPC #9 for complete history and photos.

Smoky Mountain Model Works, Inc. 35 Springwood Drive ● Asheville, NC 28805 Web: www.smokymountainmodelworks.com

Ph. (828) 777-5619 ● Email: jimking3@charter.net

1945 1946 1947 1948 1949 1950 1951 1952

380000-381999 1886 1859 1858 1852 1950 1935 1944 1942

385000-385999 997 996 992 991 991 991 989 986

1953 1954 1955 1956 1957 1958 1960 1961

380000-381999 1938 1933 1929 1922 1913 1905 1897 1876

385000-385999 986 984 984 984 981 979 975 970

1962 1965 1972 1974 1977 1979 1985

380000-381999 1849 1466 78 10 8 7 0

385000-385999 962 716 63 9 6 6 0

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CONSTRUCTION

Note: The carbody side extensions are very thin in order to allow adequate room for the underframe insert. There is a slight “waviness” to some of the castings due to this necessarily-thin area. While most of this waviness is very minor, some modelers may want to straighten some of these areas. To do so, use an open flame, such as a modeler’s Butane torch, Butane lighter or high-wattage soldering iron. Open flame works much faster than a soldering iron. Heat a small area until it starts to soften (about 1-2 seconds using a torch, slightly longer for a lighter), remove the heat source, gently reposition the area with your finger (NOT your finger nail or you’ll leave a mark) and let cool. If you move it too much (or not enough), repeat as many times as desired. An open flame should be held no closer than ½”. Because urethane is a thermo-set material, it will not melt like styrene, which is a thermo-plastic. Even so, excessive heat on a corner will cause it to burn, discolor and the corner will become rounded, so work slowly. • Scrub all castings with a toothbrush and Pine Sol or a mild abrasive, like Comet or Soft Scrub, then wash thoroughly and let dry. Be

sure to scrub the BOTH sides of the detail sheet (the flat side is a gluing surface. Scrape off the flash using an X-Acto #11 blade along the bottom edges and corners of the body. Remove the underframe from the sheet and deflash around the perimeter. Lightly sand the flat side of the detail sheet with 220-grit sandpaper to provide an “etched’ gluing surface, then wipe clean with Isopropyl Alcohol.

• Test-fit the underframe casting, noting proper orientation (“B” end points toward the brake wheel end of the car). File the width and

length as necessary until it fits snugly but not super-tight. Note that due to casting thickness variations, the underframe may require some sanding beyond deflashing to fit properly. The correct position is with each end flush with the car end … you should not be able to see the underframe when looking at either car end straight-on.

• Begin underframe assembly by test-fitting the Duryea centersill. Some filing along the coupler pocket sides and/or between the (2)

tiny tabs on each car end may be necessary to allow the centersill to fit. Note that it’s possible one of these thin tabs may break off during deflashing, possibly during casting. These are very difficult to consistently cast due to the thin geometry but can be easily replaced using Evergreen 2x6 strip CA’d to the body casting, then filed to shape.

• Trim (8) small and (4) large “plates” from the detail sheet, test-fit each one to the recesses along the centersill and CA in place. (1)

long plate is located on each side of the c’sill where the bolster will be attached later. The other (8) are spread along the centersill, (4) per side. Once glued in place, test fit to the underframe and file the plates as necessary to allow the c’sill to drop in place. Once satisfied with the fit, remove, place a small drop of CA on each cross-bearer, bolster pads and coupler support pads, then attach the c’sill, centered end-to-end.

I use CyPox CA for all glue joints and activator to set fragile joints quickly.

• Attach bolster/centersill gussets. Note some trimming is required to snugly fit these parts over the bolster “web” and the L-angle

flange to fit around the diagonal braces (left). Flex each end with a #11 blade and place a CA drop using a wire to secure. File the bolster area to prep for the bolster cap plate.

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• Lay a CA bead across a centersill “bridge” and both crossbearers, pick a crossbearer cap strip (noting that the row of rivets line up over the centersill rib) and place, centered across the centersill. Repeat for all (4) strips.

• Drill a #50 hole thru the bolster cap, bolster and underframe (there is a small

locater hole on the centersill and underframe). Apply CA to the centersill, insert a #51 bit thru that hole, slide the bolster cap over the drill bit, align and press in place.

• Form the bolster cap plate to the web’s shape using VERY short applications

of a Butane torch to soften the urethane, then press with your finger and hold until cooled. If you’re uncomfortable using a torch, cut of the riveted sides with a #11 blade, sand the thickness a little, CA a web and press with your finger. The sharply curved tip will likely require cutting and reapplying with its own CA application. File any extension flush with the underframe side. Drill #50 thru the coupler box collar, test fit a Kadee #153 “short-shank whisker” coupler, place the lid and fasten with a #2-56 x 3/16” screw (not provided). Repeat for the other end.

Flip the underframe over and file any thread extension flush with the casting and the side of the screw flush with the end of the casting.

• Drill #61 thru each bolster cap plate web for the main air line.

• Drill thru the first (2) crossbearers on the “B” end using a piece of wire as a visual alignment tool.

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• Drill the other crossbearers in the same way. Green “florist’s” wire is shown inserted thru the holes.

• Install (2) L-angle brake cylinder supports (brown parts) with the vertical portions of the “L” facing each other. See proto pic below.

Start forming the main air line from .015” phosphor bronze wire. The width between the sides is the same as the distance between the holes drilled in the above steps. The end radii were formed with a Kadee coupler trip pin pliers.

• Bend both legs 90°. Test fit thru the drilled holes, adjust as needed

until it fits properly, then CA in place. Note one end has been clipped to line up under the brake cylinder. The other end will be shortened later.

• Form the other end to butt against the first piece’s end and CA to the crossbearers.

Add (2) long L-angle supports across the (4) riveted strips with the outer edge of each “L” flush with the centersill edge.

• Assemble the Tichy brake cylinder from sprue items 3, 7, 9 and

short 25. Drill #78 thru the rear cover after assembly. Attach an .080” spacer to the bottom of the cylinder before CA’ing to the L-angles.

CA the brake lever (item 26) thru the piston rod clevis, then CA (2) 18” grab irons over this lever to the L-angle sides and to the lever. CA the 2

nd brake lever to the L-angles, CA (2) more 18” grabs over

this lever and connect the levers with .010” wire “brake rod”. Note the truck brake rods are also in place. NOTE: the lefthand brake lever should be moved about 12” toward the cylinder … refer to Pages 5 and 10 photo for updated position.

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• Here’s the same view as above from the opposite side. • Build the reservoir from Tichy #1, 2 & 10. Build supports

for the reservoir and triple valve from scrap styrene with 1x6 strips connecting the posts to the underframe edges. Drill #78 holes in the reservoir for future air lines.

Build a brake rod between the cylinder clevis by forming an “L” on one end, slipping a ¼” length of chain over the wire down to this bend, CA at the corner of the “L”, trim the “L” extension back to the chain and CA’ing the chain (with rod) to the clevis end. Trim the rod’s length and CA to the side of the bolster pad below the truck surface. NOTE: the brake lever at far-right should align with the reservoir support … this is a correction based on information made available after the parts were assembled. Refer to photo at bottom for updated position.

• Here’s the view from the opposite side after the above steps are completed. Note the 1x6 styrene strip just ahead of the cylinder .. this is a rod “keeper” (CA’d to the L-angle) that prevents the brake rod from drooping and putting strain on the chain and clevis.

• Below: Completed underframe with correct brake lever position following installation of .0125” air lines (in black) between the

cylinder, reservoir and triple valve and slack adjustor parts (assembled on Page 10).

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• Drill #78 holes for grab irons on both sides and insert 18” straight grabs. Use 2” thick styrene strips to correct space the wire from the car side. If you’re modeling an open door, remove the cast-in support block using a razor saw on the small connector tabs. DO NOT cut with a knife or pinchers … you need to remove material, not separate it. Cutting instead of sawing will likely put enough pressure on the thin bottom section to break it.

Use a straightedge across both door track supports to verify the casting is straight. File any “humps” as necessary before adding the tracks.

• CA either door track across the door, then use a #11 blade and CA-tipped wire to place a drop on each of the remaining supports. Drop the tracks in place. NOTE: the upper track is a very small L-angle with (2) groups of (4) rivets along the front face that align with the supports shown in either photo.

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• There are very small notches to the inside of each ladder rivet head. Use these to locate a #78 drill held in some sort of sturdy

drill press, such as that offered thru MicroMark. A Dremel drill stand does not have a sturdy collet and drilling by hand, although possible, will certainly result in several broken bits. Drill all ladder rung and the top grab iron holes on both sides.

Drill a #78 hole at the base of each groove. Use .010” wire for all rungs and grabs. Form a 90° end about 1/8” long, tap the end with a small hammer to create a sharp corner, insert in the hole, slide a smooth-jawed pliers along the wire up to the fixture, remove the wire from the fixture, form the other end with your finger and tap this corner with the hammer. Cut off leaving about 1/16” .. the short end goes in the right side of the ladder.

• Install each rung as formed noting the top grab is formed in the longer fixture groove. CA

each wire tip along the left ladder rail from the inside and use a .010” wire scrap to place a drop on the right end from the outside. Use a 2” thick strip to control the gap. After gluing, straight each rung as necessary (photo shows rungs prior to straightening). Drill all rung and grab iron holes on each end.

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• The next (2) photos show the progression of adding rungs, grabs, retainer valve and .0125” line, brake platform casting, Ajax housing and chain (Tichy parts). If modeling an M53A, remove (3) sets of paired rivets (note (3) vertical rows of rivets running top to bottom) just above the lower tackboard supports. (If modeling an M53, leave this strip off but you’ll need to remove all of the rivets between the roof ribs located along the curved corner for the entire body length.) Note the strip is removed for the tackboard.

• The next (2) photos show the progression of adding the tackboard, brake rod, brake rod fulcrum and 1x3 styrene ladder “hooks”

that bridge the gap between the ladder rails and first grab iron. The bottom-right photo shows 1x3 strips glued in place prior to trimming on the side ladder. CA to the grab and ladder rails, trim to the grab iron, file the corner to round it and trim the strip width to match the ladder rail.

“A” end “B” end

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• The next (2) photos show the completed “B” end after the roofwalk has been attached. Don’t assemble the brake wheel until last to avoid damage (the wheel shown is a Kadee Ajax wheel (not provided) .. a wheel is item #13 on the Tichy sprue).

To install the roofwalk, note that there is a “proper” orientation. Each walkway support matches a series of nail holes and board “joints”. Slightly score the joint between the main walk and the corner platforms and bend each platform slightly. If it breaks, no big deal .. just install the walkway and CA the platform in place noting that the front edge is CA’d to the roof. On the front edge of each platform are (2) tabs .. use your fingernail to bend these down until they contact the roof, then apply a tiny drop of CA to each to secure. Drill #78 holes for the platform grabs and form from .010” wire. Complete the roofwalk with 1x3 styrene strips .. (1) under the “boards” and (2) angled ones. Note in both photos the small white piece extending down from the body near the centerline. The cast-on tab broke off during handling due to the very thin geometry but is easily recreated using 2x6 styrene, CA’d in place and filed to shape.

• Install doors (some filing at the top/bottom may be required for a snug fit), tackboards and door locking mechanism (with handle).

No weight is included with the kit since a myriad of choices is available, such as A-Line’s lead weights, ordinary hex nuts, brass strip or these HO tank car weights CA’d to the casting over the bolsters.

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• These (2) photos show the installed underframe with a 2x6 spacer between the centersill and extensions plus 1x3 strips

representing the dovetail guide tracks (see proto pix in another folder on this CD).

• After attaching the underframe to the body, the last items to install are the defect card holder or small tackboard (depending on era) located on the “BR” corner, slack adjustor and bottom-mount steps.

NOTE: the model’s slack adjustor housing extends across the centersill between the L-angles but the prototype stopped about midway. Due to the small size of the prototype housing vs. working with oversize parts on this model, it was easier to widen the housing to allow installation of the chains. CA the ratchet plate to the underframe. Build the U-shaped box from .010” styrene. Drill thru the ratchet hub and thru both box sides, install a .015” wire and cut off on the far side of the box leaving about (2) scale inches. Cut short lengths of chain and CA to the “shaft” and brake lever. CA a styrene “cap” across the box walls to create a “U”. Add bottom steps to each corner.

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• The completed car ready for paint. We’ve been told that Polly Scale “Special Oxide” is a very close match for the B&O oxide red. Polly Scale (an acrylic) needs to be thinned 70% with isopropyl alcohol prior to spraying but the end result is a hard, fast-drying “shell” ready for decaling. A primer may not be necessary if the surfaces are clean.

Refer to the B&O HS’ web site (http://www.borhs.org/modelermag/index.html) to access a .pdf file showing all lettering schemes applicable to the M53/M53A from construction to retirement. The decal artwork was created for this kit by John Frantz and is displayed below to use as a reference when locating specific information.

Suggestions for Applying Thin-Film Decals. These are some of the thinnest decals currently available and do require more care during application than thicker decals. ALPS decals will not stand up to rough handling. Avoid sliding metal objects across the characters and excessive flexing of the sheet. DO NOT use scissors to cut out decals. Use a gloss overcoat on your model and allow to dry completely before applying decals. Use a fresh X-Acto® #11 blade to cut decals, angling the blade toward the center of the decal while cutting. This will taper the decal’s edge and make it less visible. It is reported that the decal lettering can be smudged by resting the hand on the sheet while cutting. Use a sheet of waxed paper between your hand and the sheet if handling is necessary. The decal text is hard to read due to the thin application of white film on a light background. Fold a paper towel four times to form a thick pad and dampen with tap water. Find the area of the decal sheet you want to cut (refer to the layout below), place that section on the dampened pad and press down until some of the moisture transfers thru the blue backing paper. As the paper absorbs water, it darkens, creating more contrast with the white text without soaking the film off the paper. Cut out the desired area and follow typical decal processing, outlined below. Fill a shallow dish with water. Float the decal face up on the water’s surface and place on a dry paper towel to absorb excess water. We use a Bob Harpe trick for decal setting solution. Fill a small bottle with 40% Walther’s Solvaset®, 40% distilled water and 20% isopropyl alcohol (used to break the surface tension). While the decal is floating in a shallow dish of water, brush this mixture in the area to be decaled. It should lay smooth and not bead up. Slide the decal off the paper backing into the puddle of setting solution, slowly letting the decal push the excess solution ahead as it is positioned. Move the decal into the final position using a toothpick or equally dull tool to avoid tearing. When mostly dry, poke any air bubbles with a pin or tip of a sharp blade and re-apply the 40/40/20 solution. Repeat this until all bubbles are removed. Lastly, brush on full-strength Solvaset® across the surface of the decal, then let dry thoroughly. Use water and a Q-tip to remove excess decal glue.

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