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booklet custom work

Date post: 22-Jul-2016
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MADE LIKE VALENTINO ROSSI’S IN THE SAME PLACE… SINCE 1972Dainese has made custom suits for World Champions like Kenny Roberts Sr., Giacamo Agostini, Eddie Lawson, John Kocinski, Kevin Schwantz, Scott Russell, Max Biaggi, Marco Simoncelli, Nicky Hayden, and of course nine-time World Champion Valentino Rossi. Clearly, a�er working with racers such as these for over 40 years, we know how to make custom leather garments. Our Custom Works suits are comprised of many di�erent pieces just like Valentino Rossi’s.The ‘custom’ part comes from years of experience and knowing how to interpret the 26 measurements (one being weight) taken by our tailors and then ‘stretching’ (morphing) each panel of a standard suit into a panel that will allow the suit to �t together as a unit speci�cally tailored for each measured rider.All of this is done in our factory in Molvena, a small village in Northern Italy in an area that is known for �ne leather and excellent seamstresses coming from generations of leatherworkers. But the process begins with the client and taking the measurements that Dainese has determined to be the most critical. And only trained Dainese specialists, with years of experience, can take these measurements. Once the measurements are reviewed and approved in Molvena, the process of determining which standard suit to begin with and how best to morph that suit begins. And then the patterns are sent to the computerized leather cutting machines for cutting.

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We also know how to design and create almost anything the rider can think up. Di�erent colors, materials, logos, your name, your race number are all things that can be designed into your suit (or jacket or pant) by our design specialists using Adobe Illustrator.

DONE TO YOUR SPECIFICATIONS AND DESIRESThey travel the World for special events just to sit down with each client and make sure that the design is true to his or her vision. The design work is done with the client during the event, and then �nalized in Molvena, Italy via emails before being put into production.

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Typically, a consumer needs a made to measure leather garment because he or she is not an ‘o�-the-rack’ size. However, there are many riders that simply want to have custom design work done on a standard sized garment. And there are those that need a tailored suit due to their body shape and also want custom colors and design work done. Therefore Dainese caters to everyone and o�ers di�erent options enabling a completely customizable result. So we begin each Custom Works session by determining what you the customer wants from our program. There are four ‘F’ levels to choose from:

STEP ONE

Example of a “script” add-on

Leather swatches

Comparison of an “o�-the-rack” suit

Standard size (“o� the rack”) but with custom colors and up to 3 add-on items (i.e. logos, scripts, names, or numbers)

F1Tailor ‘custom works’ but with a standard color optionF2Tailor ‘custom works’ with custom colors and up to 3 add-on items (i.e. logos, scripts, names, numbers). A�er the 3rd add-on item, a price will have to be determined by the R&D department in Molvena. Extra logos/scripts/numbers/etc. may increase the price all the way up to an F4 level.

F3

Tailor ‘custom works’ with custom colors and no limits on add-on items.F4

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Once the ‘F’ level is determined, the measurement process begins for ‘F’ levels 2 through 4. Dainese requires all measurements to be done while the rider is in a tight, synthetic under garment such as our Grinner EVO under suit. In this way we are able to get the most accurate measurements and take photos of the rider that reveal the body type to the specialists in Molvena who will be reviewing the information and making the adjustments to the stock panels. There are 26 measurements and all of them are

critical. Our Dainese tailors know precisely what body ‘points’ to reference, including the extremely important 7th vertebrae and the top of the hip bones.

For ‘F’ levels 1, 3, and 4. At this point, the Dainese tailors will begin the design process with the rider, using Adobe Illustrator and templates speci�c to each suit, jacket, or pant Dainese o�ers on the ‘menu’. Colors can be chosen for di�erent panels, using leather color swatches provided by the tailor. Logos can be added in almost any area. Names and race numbers are also capable of being added. If special design work is requested, our Dainese specialists can do it, but it may require extra work a�er the session and add an additional cost to the �nal price of the garment.

Once the interaction between the rider and the tailor is �nished, then the order needs to be con�rmed and entered into Dainese’s system by the tailor, with all the information feeding back to Molvena. Molvena then determines two things: 1) if the sketch is ‘correct’ (i.e. able to be produced as is), or if anything needs adjusting, and 2) if the measurements are ‘correct’ (i.e. fall within a correct range and can be approved and sent to the specialists for �nal panel adjustments). Once these two things are determined to be ‘correct’, the garment is then issued a production date. This process can sometimes take up to a month, especially if there is additional artwork requested, or sketch changes necessary, or measurement ‘checks’ required. This process can add to the overall time required to deliver the garment. But once the garment is approved and put in production, Dainese can usually deliver the �nished product to the dealer/end user within 3 months.

The end result is a customized Dainese Custom Works garment, o�ering the ultimate in �t and comfort. It is of utmost importance for the �t of a leather garment (designed ultimately for safety) to be very close to the body, but the by-product of this tight �t is ultimate comfort and excellent ergonomics.

STEP TWO

STEP THREE

STEP FOUR

In return, this also increases the safety aspect, allowing the rider to feel comfortable on the motorcycle and perform all the necessary movements involved in riding, including easily moving to avoid any potential accidents.

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Dainese o�ers several opportunities to customers either in need of a Custom Works and/or desiring a custom look: Custom Works Events, D-Stores, and individual appointments with a certi�ed Dainese tailor made through an authorized Dainese dealership.

Usually held at a dealer, but can be held at special outdoor events or at a racetrack. If held at a dealer, there is usually a separate measuring room or a curtained o� area. At outdoor events, Dainese will provide

a changing ‘room’. Custom Works events are held periodically throughout Europe, and once a year in October in the North American continent. During the North American Custom Works Tour, tailors travel across the continent typically visiting such cities as NYC, Toronto, Chicago, San Francisco, and L.A. amongst others.

At most of the D-Stores there is a trained employee who is able to take the measurements required, but not all D-Stores can do custom works design. For this, sometimes the D-Store can provide the templates in a paper form and color changes, logo additions, etc. can be done via faxes.

In some cases, a private appointment can be made for a Dainese tailor to fly out to the local Dainese dealer and perform a private measuring and/or design session. This however is rare and the traveling expenses of the tailor may be charged.

“WHERE CAN I GET A CUSTOM WORKS GARMENT?”

CUSTOM WORKS EVENTS

D-STORES

INDIVIDUAL APPOINTMENTS

Trained in Molvena by Silvano* and currently the main Custom Works specialist/tailor for Europe and the coordinator of all events. She typically attends all the events in Europe and does all the entering of data/measurements for the Custom Works gathered by the D-Truck. Angela has done the last two Custom Works Tours across North America and will be attending the one in 2014 as well. She is based in Vicenza and works very closely with everyone in Molvena. She typically tours throughout Europe, assisting

Silvano and Roberta, each in charge of measuring and design work respectively. She is the main point of contact for almost every Custom Works.

Trained in Molvena by Silvano* and now the Custom Works Coordinator for North America, currently handling all Custom Works in the entire continent and working with Ducati N.A. and S.p.A. on special Dainese Custom Works suits for their Superleggere clients. Measured several AMA racers such as Elena Myers, Josh Herrin, and worked with other racers as Aaron Yates and Blake Young on suit, boot, and glove issues. Toured with Angela in North America in 2013 and Germany in 2014 to perfect his measurement skills. He has been

measuring for over �ve years and done several stand-alone events in the USA.

D-STORE CHICAGO CUSTOM WORKS TOUR 2013

ANGELA TROTTO

ALLAN JONES

* Silvano is the only tailor assigned to Valentino

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Once an order is created and the garment is approved for production in Molvena, the tailor receives ‘con�rmation’ and production is scheduled. When the order’s production date arrives, the measurements and photos are then referenced by one of three specialists who will digitally modify (stretch) the panels of an o�-the-rack suit to accommodate the speci�ed dimensions of the client. Then all the panels/logos/names/numbers are cut with the appropriate color of leather using laser leather cutting machines. All of the panels/logos/names/numbers and all the necessary accessories such as aluminum shoulder plates and knee and elbow armor (upwards of 200 or more individual pieces)

If a Custom Works garment does not seem to �t properly upon delivery, even a�er an extensive analysis performed by a trained sta� member, then Dainese will take appropriate steps. The shop sta� will help to make sure that the areas of concern are documented with photos and new dimensions required. This information is then sent o� to the tailor and forwarded to Molvena for review. There are o�en several solutions to a �t problem, but in the worst case, the suit will have to be sent back to Molvena for adjustments. In this case, Dainese will cover shipping costs and also all the

PRODUCTION

DELIVERY

AFTER SALES

Once delivered, it may be necessary for the tailor to become involved again for an evaluation if the suit does not appear to �t properly. If it is determined that the suit does in fact need adjustment(s), then an A�er Sales process begins. Of course, we �rst want to make sure that client understands how a technical leather garment is designed to �t. Dainese one-piece technical garments are designed through careful study of the body and its movements for the type of activity performed during professional competition. Whenever trying on a Dainese racing suit, the back protector must be inserted, and gloves, boots, and a racing under-suit must all be worn together as a unit because the precise �t for the suit was designed with these items in mind. It is also important to understand the riding position on the motorcycle. One-piece suits are designed for super-sport bikes and so the riding position is more extreme: the trunk is curved,

are placed together in a tray that is then passed o� to the seamstresses. The tray of items makes its journey down the sewing machine line where each individual seamstress will do her part. Once completed, the suit is passed o� to a technical inspector who will make sure all the seams are properly done, all logos are properly attached, and all the colors correct. This inspector will also clean and condition the suit before wrapping it in protective plastic for shipping. Usually, the �nished product is delivered to the client within 3 months of the measuring event, but 5-6 months or longer is also possible for any number of reasons.

the legs are pre-curved and tighter, and the suit follows the outline of the body while in the riding position. This means that the suit should not be comfortable when the rider is standing. I.E it should be a bit tight in the crotch, and the sleeves and legs should be too short because the correct length and feel will only be felt while in the correct riding position on an appropriate super-sport bike. The wrinkles that form are perfectly normal and not a sign of excess material. A Dainese two-piece suit is designed more for touring use and therefore will be more comfortable when the rider is standing and more comfortable in general than a one-piece. In this garment form, there may be more wrinkles around the joints but again, these should not be considered as a sign of excess material but only as the fabric required to ensure freedom of movement and comfort while riding.

costs associated with making any necessary adjustments. While this additional time spent without the custom garment can be frustrating, one must understand that bespoke garments in the clothing industry o�en require two or three or more visits to the tailor for adjustments. We do our best to get it right the �rst time, but it is a very di�cult and precise process and so sometimes adjustments are necessary.In this case, we will kindly ask for your patience. Grazie e ciao!

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