A P U B L I C A T I O N F R O M N I L O R N W O R L D W I D E N o . 1 / 2 0 1 5
Bare NecessitieBY PATRICK HJERTÉN
Nilorn WorldwideITALY OFFICE
Mads NørgaardA FACE-TO-FACE INTERVIEW
Cotton made in AfricaHELPING PEOPLE TO HELP THEMSELVES
BRANDING & DESIGN
2
WELCOME
BARE NECESSITIEBY PATRICK HJERTÉN
DENIM REPAIROLD JAPANESE BEAUTY
NILORN WORLDWIDEITALY
COTTON MADE IN AFRICA
HELPING PEOPLE TO
HELP THEMSELVES
THE DESIGN DOCTORS
»VILLA NILORN« EVENT
STORES YOU MUST VISITANTWERP & NEW YORK
STYLE INDICATOR
ASPIRE TO INSPIRE
CONTENTS05
07
10
13
16
21
22
28
COVER PHOTO
Styling Andrea Albertyn
Photo Olof Händén
Hair and Make up Nandi Kai
Model Alexa / Boss Models
PAPER
Cover Silk 200gsm
Body Arctic silk 150gsm
Print Responstryck AB, Borås, Sweden
Nilorn Worldwide is an international
company, established in 1977, focused
on adding value to brands using
branding and design in the form of
labels, packaging and accessories.
Customers principally represent the
fashion and ready-to-wear industry.
Nilorn Worldwide offers complete,
creative and tailored concepts in branding,
design, product development and logistic
solutions. Satisfied customers are our
principal asset, and it is therefore
important to establish, maintain and
enhance customer relations through
first-class service. Nilorn Worldwide is
one of the leading European players,
with turnover of ca 400 MSEK. The
group operates through its own
companies in Sweden, Denmark, the
United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium,
Portugal, Hong Kong, India, China,
Bangladesh, Turkey, Pakistan and Italy.
In addition, there are partner companies
in Switzerland, Tunisia, and USA.
www.nilorn.com
BRANDING & DESIGN
3
PANTONEGOES NATURAL
100% DESIGNLONDON DESIGN WEEK
NEW COLLECTIONPRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
RECAP OF PRODUCTSZIPPER PULLERS
MADS NØRGAARD A FACE-TO-FACE INTERVIEW
MC ALSONBELGIAN FAMILY BUSINESS
SHAI DAHANNO LIMIT FESTIVAL
31
68
64
70
52
63
59
WELCOME
BRANDING & DESIGN
4
NILÖRN ABAlingsåsvägen 6Box 499503 13 BoråsSWEDENTel: +46 33 700 88 00Fax:+46 33 700 88 48
BALLY LABELS AGSchachenstrasse 24 CH-5012 SchönenwerdSWITZERLANDTel: +41 62 855 27 50Fax: +41 62 855 27 59
NILORN BANGLADESH LTD.Millennium Castle, 12th fl.House 47, Road 27 Block A, BananiDhaka -1213BANGLADESHTel: +88 02 8835912 Fax: +88 02 8835913
NILORN BELGIUM NVBrusselsesteenweg 5259090 MelleBELGIUMTel: +32 9 210 40 90 [email protected]
NILORN DENMARK A/S Vestergade 48 5000 Odense C DENMARKTel: +45 70 23 16 23
NILORN EAST ASIA LTDUnit 1701, 17/F, Westley Square48 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun TongKowloonHONG KONGTel: +852 2 371 2218Fax: +852 2 371 [email protected]
NILORN GERMANY GMBHItterpark 740724 HildenGERMANYTel:. +49 2103 908 16 - 0Fax: +49 2103 908 16 - 99
NILORN INDIA PVT. LTDPlot no. 9c, Sector – 3Parwanoo – 173220 (HP)INDIATel. +91 1792 235232Fax +91 1792 [email protected]
NILORN ITALYVia Bellini 8/C41012 CarpiITALYTel: +39 [email protected]
NILORN PAKISTAN (PVT) LTD2nd Floor, Yasir ChambersGulshan –E-Iqbal, Block 13AMain University RoadP.O. Box 75300KarachiPAKISTANTel: +92 21 349 92151Fax:+92 21 349 92153
NILORN PORTUGAL – INDÚSTRIA DE ETIQUETAS, LDARua Central de Barrosas, 3044585 - 902 Recarei – ParedesPORTUGALTel: +351 22 411 95 80Fax: +351 22 411 95 99
NILORN SHANGHAI LIMITEDRm 701, 288,Chengjiaqiao Road.Minhang District,Shanghai, CHINAPoastal Code 201103Tel: +86-21 345 512 90
NILORN TURKEY Mimar Sinan Cad. Ünverdi Sok. No:50. Kat:3. 34540 Günesli IstanbulTURKEYTel: +90 212 657 76 76 (pbx). Fax: +90 212 657 75 [email protected]
NILORN UK LTD1A Acre ParkDalton Lane KeighleyWest YorkshireBD21 4JHUNITED KINGDOMTel: +44 1535 673 500
NILORN UK LTD81 Rivington StreetShoreditchLondonEC2A 3AYUNITED KINGDOMTel: +44 (0)1535 673 500
NILORN USA LLC3499 Meier StreetLos Angeles, CA 90066UNITED STATESTel: +1 888-315 1875
HEADQUARTERS
NILÖRNGRUPPEN ABAlingsåsvägen 6
Box 499
503 13 Borås
SWEDEN
Tel. +46 33 700 88 88
Fax +46 33 700 88 19
www.nilorn.com
SUBSIDIARIES & PARTNERS
WELCOME
BRANDING & DESIGN
5
D EAR R EAD E R,It is my great pleasure to hereby release the 1st edition of our Design and branding magazine 2015.
We have done our best to present inspiring news from the fascinating world of design and fashion, blended with articles about exciting designers, interesting projects and places from different parts around the world.
In this issue you can read an interesting interview with the talented designer Mads Nørgaard including new trends within branding, successful fashion companies, inspirational stores and also the fantastic project »Cotton made in Africa«.
We will also guide you in the exciting world of branding and storytelling which is what we work with every day. We help our customers use the right type of design, materials and placement guides to tell their stories.
Without doubt, packaging, carefully designed hangtags and stylish but simple woven labels, all help to promote their products. Sometimes it is the small details which have the greatest impact on value. A small label may be carrying a message or a symbol which you only discover after a while.
Reaching people`s hearts and making them smile, – that is what successful branding is all about.
A well developed branding concept is guaranteed to help you generate successful sales.
Please enjoy and be inspired by our latest magazine.
All the best,
Claes af WetterstedtCEO
100% DESIGNDesign team at 100% Design fair,
London, atum 2014.
INSPIRATION TRIPInspiring stores in London.
SOUTH AFRICAPhotographer and stylist interpret
»la bohéme« on location in Sout Africa.
LONDONSoaking up the atmosphere on the
way to our design meeting.
NEXT TREND SEMINARS Colourhouse Event/ Fashion Snoops.
Chamber - SS 16 Woman, Forecasting –
Activewear.
PHOTO SHOOTBehind the scenes for the
photo shoot of »Glory« collection.
A glimpse of N I LOR N
VALUES AND IDENTITY
BRANDING & DESIGN
7
BARENECESSITIE
WORDS: PATRICK HJERTÉN
Since the day we humans started peddling goods and services to each other the value of a concise marketing and branding strategy has over time increased in value. These days we do not only sell a shirt or a chair. We just as much sell values, an image and a concept. When it comes to design goods the customers do not buy the products based only on the merit of their usage alone but more and more on what the possession of said designer goods portray about the owner.
The label and the name is just not that, but also the story behind the label and the emotions, desires as well as values that are infused into the brand. A company always starts with an idea that can be quite sketchy at first but still a seed that can grow into something bigger. When it is more formalised it is important to decide what do we want to be as a company and to whom are we offering the products and services. A concept is being created and naturally it needs to be done with a level of care because the pitfalls are many. To rush ahead (even though it is tempting) is not advisable. The company needs to take its first steps with careful consideration. What the company needs and what the customer wants is consistency.
We as humans, no matter if as individuals or as a collective that a company is, we want assurances. Which in itself is a contradiction since life offers so few assurances to begin with. Companies want assurances of a sound economic climate and customers
want to be assured of that they are being offered the best in goods and services
that their money can buy. That is where the consistency comes in,
which plays an intrinsic part for both customers and companies as well as clarity. With
consistency comes honesty. If longevity is the goal for a company, which it should be, then honesty with your customers will take you a long way. Consistency and honesty together also creates the best options for clarity. In that we have a trinity that undeniably offers a strong and potent vehicle for a concept that lasts.
The concept that has been created by a company or organization is to be visible and »acted out« through everything that is presented to the market whether it be a brochure, the webpage or a stall at a fair. The customer is to have instant recognition and not in any way be confused about what the product and the company behind it stands for. If we look back in time it was naturally easier when the different markets were more separated and there were not so many actors in each. Today, more than ever, we have one global market with a fierce competition. Since there are so many companies, so many labels in the clothing industry for instance the risk of disappearing in the crowd is daunting. How do we catch the attention of our customers? Is it the one who screams the loudest who gets the prize? Very rarely. The most important thing is not how you say it but what you say.
No one really knows where we are headed or what will happen. All we
can do is to be responsive to the changes around us and evolve with them.
VALUES AND IDENTITY
BRANDING & DESIGN
8
When customers are beseeched with offers, like they are in today’s market, it is more important than ever to be clear, consistent and honest in your marketing message to said customers. Today we are faced with a global market that we can reach anytime and everywhere. New companies and new labels have more potential customers to satisfy but the challenge is which of them to choose and with which channels to reach them. We have the classic print material and on the other hand the digital tools like Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Youtube and many, many more. When I started my menswear label I tried to be in as many places as possible. I got articles in the papers and did all the digital channels you could think off. I wanted too much too soon. In hindsight I would have been more careful in choosing my instruments and I advise others to be more selective. When you choose too many channels you can actually make your message seem confusing, and naturally it is easier to lose control of work when you use so many instruments to try and reach your attended audience and customers. It is also much more difficult to be clear and consistent in your marketing mix, identity and image when you choose to broadcast your brand in every way possible. You do not have to be everywhere, and where you choose to be should be consistent with your brand values and brand identity. If you want your company and product to have a classical feel perhaps Instagram is not the vehicle for you. It sounds like a cliché but listen to your gut feeling.
Something else you should listen to is what are happening in the world and society. Since we now are partly digital things seem to move faster. For instance, young people are leaving Facebook for other modes of communication whereas people belonging to the category forty plus is the big group posting and interacting. If you want to target twentysomethings Facebook is not the way to go. Since we have so many more options to send out our marketing messages to our intended targets we have to do our
homework better and more extensively than we had to before when print was our only option. What do these different options offer us, who do they reach out to, and how much effort is needed on our part to get across to the ones we need to reach? Those questions need to be answered before we charge for-ward, or let someone else do the research job for us.
Then we always have to consider that an action sooner or later creates a reaction. The pendulum swings back and forth, and we can now see companies use print material. They send actual letters on beautiful paper, or like an advertising agency in New York who posted an application for a new employee on a hand written note and taped it to their office window. Ironically or cleverly enough such events reaches us because they go viral. In other words we can go back but never as far as the original state of affairs. Another
thing to take into consideration is that when the global market is in economic turmoil and when now things change as rapidly as they do customers seek comfort and security.
What will be the next thing? Where will we as companies have to go next in order to establish contact and communication with our customers? Will we have 3D-projections, watch films in a pair of glasses or have a chip under our skin? No one really knows where we are headed or what will happen. All we can do is to be responsive to the changes around us and evolve with them. When you break everything down to its bare necessities it does not matter whether it is carved on a stone slab with a chisel and hammer or a digital message on the latest technological device. What it all comes down to is the message.
Therefore, when brand values and a brand identity is to be created or upheld have three things in mind; clarity, consistency and honesty.
VALUES AND IDENTITY
BRANDING & DESIGN
9
ARTICLE
BRANDING & DESIGN
10
Words: Annica Bjering / Skrivsamt. Hand lettering: RIkard Häll.
The interest for recyclable products has reached the fashion arena. Denim repairs
are both decorative and sustainable and are now offered by big brands, such as
Nudie Jeans. The technique to repair denim is inspired by an old Japanese handcraft.
ARTICLE
BRANDING & DESIGN
11
»Sashiko« is an embroidery technique that the Japanese people have been using on their denim since the 17th century. The wives of farmers and fishermen originally invented this technique to recycle damaged clothes and keep their husbands warm during harsh winters. The skill was inherited from generation to generation and taught at a young age. The women were actually judged by their weaving skills when it came to determine their suitability for marriage.
The uniqueness of Sashiko is that the fabrics are stitched layer upon layer by hand.
It is rather simple to master as it is just a running stitch. As a matter of fact, Sashiko means »little stabs« in Japanese. The Japanese traditionally used the stitch as a way to patch worn spots, but it is today used for its simple yet unique decorative purposes. As the craft matured, it evolved from just a mending technique into its own art form.
In Japan, Sashiko is typically seen on indigo-dyed cotton clothes and the thread is usually white. In fact, peasants in Japan were only allowed to wear indigo blue clothes until the end of the 19th century. Tightly woven cotton is still the best fabric to use the technique on.
The most common Sashiko stitching patterns are geometrical – squares, diagonals, hexagons, diamonds, and circles. A distinctive element in all the patterns is the use of space; Japanese designs make full use of blank space as an integral part of the over-all pattern. Another signature is that for even the most detailed design, the maker can find the longest linear route for her stitches and rarely begin a new thread.
So do not throw away your favourite jeans just because they are damaged. Lets make art of them instead. The Sashiko technique will live on, making the clothes of today into timeless pieces.
TOP PHOTO: Fashion Snoops/Runway TNG FW 15/16.
BOTTOM RIGHT: Nudie Denim Repair. BOTTOM LEFT:
Fashion Snoops/Forcasting FDMTL Spring 15.
1501xx_Dressmann_215x280_lh.indd 1 11/17/14 12:17 PM
NILORN WORLDWIDE
BRANDING & DESIGN
13
NILORN WORLDWIDE all lights on
Carpi
NILORN WORLDWIDE
BRANDING & DESIGN
14
NILORN ITALY
I’ve been in the fashion industry for many years and have
always tried to cooperate with the best companies in the
world for fashion accessories. The demand from the
leading brands is becoming increasingly challenging
and to keep up with the rising demand I needed a
company that could support me in this journey.
THE ITALIAN OFFICE OFFERS SUPPORT AND CREATIVE SOLUTIONS
IN CLOSECOLLABORATION
WITH THE COMPANY HEADQUARTERS IN
SWEDEN ANDSUBSIDIARIES AROUND
THE WORLD.
NILORN WORLDWIDE
BRANDING & DESIGN
15
At that time, I found Nilorn and had the chance to introduce Nilorn into the Italian market.
Increasingly, companies are looking for partners who are located close to production sites, have tight shipment control, provide vendor contacts in their own country and language, offer good prices, and can support and inspire research and development at their own headquarters.
In the past, the sole requirement was to offer the best price, sometimes at the cost of quality. The financial crisis and the strong competition in the market have made me aware of the need to offer a good branding service. This differentiates Nilorn from being one of many and makes it the ideal partner for finding new ways of working.
Due to the crisis in the European market and in Italy in particular, the working
methods and the organisational systems at large and medium-sized enterprises have undergone radical change. Companies have been forced to completely change their way of working. To maintain a high fashion style and enable the continued development of brands in Italy, companies have to source materials and produce goods in more competitive countries.
I live in Carpi, a city in the north of Italy, close to Bologna. It is often referred to as the »Knitwear City« of northern Italy. Seventy per cent of the people who live in Carpi work in fashion.
I’ve always been in the textile business. While I was at school, my brother gave me the opportunity to work in textiles over the summer. This enabled me to follow the production stages and understand the entire process from the drawing board to
the produced garment. In my career, I’ve worked for and represented different labels and branding suppliers in Italy such as the Cadica Group (Italian supplier), SML (Chinese producer) and Jointak (Hong Kong).
Today, I not only offer my clients a good price, but a partnership that helps develop the brand. By listening and offering creative solutions, I am able to offer an excellent service. To be continuously present at the forefront makes our clients feel strong and confident. Working with Nilorn since June has been a pleasure.
The Italian Office offers support and creative solutions in close collaboration with the company headquarters in Sweden and subsidiaries around the world.
Are you ready for tomorrow?
I LIVE IN CARPI, CLOSE TO
BOLOGNA. IT IS OFTEN REFERRED
TO AS THE »KNITWEAR CITY«
OF NORTHERN ITALY.
Carpi piazza dei Martiri. Alberto and his dog Peggy.
COTTON MADE INAFRICA
Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) is an initiative of the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF). Based on the goal of safeguarding the future of coming generations and protecting vital resources through sustainable development, Dr. Michael Otto established the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) in 2005. Through activating market forces and training programmes for sustainable cotton production in Sub Saharan Africa, the Aid by Trade Foundation helps African cotton farmers to help themselves through
trade, significantly contributes to reducing poverty and ensuring food security. The demand for textiles with the CmiA label is the engine that drives the development in the cotton producing project areas. Since 2005, the Cotton made in Africa initiative has been successful in its mission to improve the living conditions of a growing number of African smallholder farmers and to put a »face« on the anonymous mass-produced cotton in international trade that is both positive and recognisable.
C O T T O N M A D E I N A F R I C A C R E A T E S A D D E D V A L U E F O R A F R I C A N C O T T O N FARMERS AS WELL AS TEXTILE COMPANIES A N D C O N S U M E R S W O R L D W I D E
COTTON MADE IN AFRICA
BRANDING & DESIGN
18
With more than 415,000 smallholder farmers from 6 Sub Saharan African countries (Côte d’Ivoire, Zambia, Ghana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique and Malawi), and family members included more than 3 million people, CmiA is one of the most important players in the African cotton sector and one of the largest projects in German development cooperation. By working with Cotton made in Africa, the employees in the ginneries benefit from fair contracts and prompt pay-ment. Training on topics such as social issues and health educate smallholder farmers about health risks in both cotton cultivation and in the family environment. Agricultural training has already enabled the farmers to increase their crop yields compared to a control group that is not part of the Cotton made in Africa initiative by an average of 23 percent. Only through boosting yield can
smallholder farmers increase their financial income in the long term and thus improve their living conditions on their own. With Farmer Business Schools, CmiA offers basic business management training for smallholder cotton farmers.
In addition to social and economic aspects, Cotton made in Africa makes a significant contribution to environmental protection in the growing regions through environmentally friendly methods. Smallholder farmers who grow cotton according to the Cotton made in Africa standards save more than 2,000 litres of water per kilogram of cotton fibre compared to the global average and up to 40% of greenhouse gas emissions per kilo of
cotton fibre compared to conventional cotton. Beyond sustainable cotton cultivation, together with partners in the public and private sectors, Cotton made in Africa improves the educational infrastructure for children and adults in the project regions, ensures a better drinking water supply and strengthens the rights of women. Currently, CmiA supports more than 85,000 women within its programme. About 2,800 women receive microcredits on their way to economic independence; others organize themselves in women’s’ cooperatives. These cooperation projects strengthen local communities and contribute directly to improving the living conditions of African cotton farmers and their families.
FOR MORE
INFORMATION, VISIT:www.facebook.com/CottonMadeInAfrica
www.twitter.com/CmiA_AbTF
www.cottonmadeinafrica.org
COTTON MADE IN AFRICA
BRANDING & DESIGN
19
COTTON MADE IN AFRICA
BRANDING & DESIGN
20
ticles in 2013. As a result, the foundation realized license revenues of more than one million Euros for the first time. This positive result indicates that Cotton made in Africa is no longer a niche project but rather an integral part of their business for a growing number of textile companies. The credo of Cotton made in Africa to help people help themselves through trade and not through donations has increasingly become a reality.With every purchase of a CmiA product, the customer makes a valuable contribution to Africa’s long-term future and helps to improve the living conditions of smallholder farmers and their children. Thanks to a most recent collaboration between Nilorn and Cotton made in Africa, the consumer now
As the largest cotton initiative in Africa, Cotton made in Africa is committed to integrating cotton originating from Africa into the textile industry with increasing success. After receiving the license fee paid by the textile company for the CmiA cotton at the end of the textile chain, the foundation reinvests the income in the African project areas. With more than 20 textile companies, including PUMA, the OTTO Group, Tchibo or Ernsting’s family, an increasing number of international companies chose to use Cotton made in Africa cotton and label their products with the CmiA quality label. Whereas in 2007, 400,000 textile articles bearing the CmiA label were produced, the number increased to 25 million ar-
also has the option of taking a piece of Africa back home. A recently published Augmented Reality video integrated with the hangtag of CmiA products gives a moving insight into the origin of our key raw material and the people who depend on it. This is win-win for everybody - for the farmers in Africa as well as for consumers and textile companies worldwide.
Download »Aurasma«
to your device.
Open app, search and
follow »CMIA«
Scan the front of this hang tag
How to use augmented reality:
ARTICLE
BRANDING & DESIGN
21
The Design Doctors inspired visitors to Nilorn Belgium with the latest Nilorn Branding and Design collections
Following the memorable »Villa Nilorn« event held in its offices several years ago, Nilorn Belgium invited clients and prospects to its »Design Doctors« day in the beautiful town of Ghent on 31 October.
As the team at Nilorn Belgium has proven once again, creativity alone isn’t enough to attract interested visitors and decision makers. You also need a splash of fun. It was this sense of enthusiasm and fun that drove the team to create a special mini event that took place from 11.00 am to 2.00 pm. The short time slot was a deliberate choice to make sure that people arrived on time and focused on the collections presented.
In mid September, staff members at Nilorn Belgium came up with the idea of inviting along designers, buyers and directors from both existing clients and prospects from throughout Belgium, the Netherlands and France. Rather than being a large-scale event, this would be carefully crafted mini-event.
The invitation was intended to catch the recipient’s attention and featured a neat and clean design presented in a 23 x 28 cm white wooden frame. It would be almost impossible to throw such a unique invitation away, even if it had fitted into a normal paper bin. The invitation was clearly successful.
People were invited to see, feel and touch the latest branding collection, showing different styles in varied segments, ranging from children’s wear to women’s and formal menswear, but also denim, sportswear and casual wear.
And what better location for such an event than an ancient and newly refurbished port building that was recently converted into an oriental cooking studio. The combination
of old brick construction, glass and metal enhanced the feel of a design-inspired environment. The specific location in the port of Ghent, opposite old industrial archeological sites with an open-air graffiti exhibition and a huge blue crane, only added to the magic.
Driven by a desire to keep surprising their clients, the team at Nilorn Belgium are determined to keep investing both creativity and wit in their innovative annual events.
To be continued...
In an ever changing world creativity,
straightforwardness and simplicity remain key to success.
THE DESIGN DOCTORS APPEALED
TO THE BASIC HUMAN SENSES:
SIGHT, HEARING, TOUCH AND TASTE.
WORDS: BART VAN TRIMPONT
THEDESIGN DOCTORS
STORES YOU MUST VISIT
BRANDING & DESIGN
22
ST
OR
ES
STORES YOU MUST VISIT
BRANDING & DESIGN
23
»World’s Best Fashion Retailer 2013«
by WeAr Global Magazine.
Five years ago Antwerp was enhanced with a unique, new shopping phenomenon: YOUR premium store – the biggest store on Kloosterstraat, with exciting and enticing brands and products, situated in the city’s vibrant antique district.
YOUR premium store already has a global reputation after being awarded »World’s Best Fashion Retailer 2013« by WeAr Global Magazine. People from all over the world visit the store every single day to experience the »YOUR way of shopping«.
YOUR premium store is a unique and exciting shopping experience where the customer and carefully selected products are king.
Y O U RANTWERP
»...With ‘PREMIUM’ in our name, we are constantly developing your shopping experience and doing everything we can to raise every detail of our concept to the next level. That’s what we love the most. At YOUR, we are never finished. The sky’s the limit and we won’t settle for less...«.
YOUR offers a fantastic mix of top and lesser-known brands across an entire range of products and prices: watches and jewellery, books, fashion, gadgets, shoes, bags, music, home accessories and art. Regarding beauty products and fragrances YOUR can show off with their large range.
MORE INFO:
www.your-antwerp.com
OPENING HOURS:
Tuesday till Saturday 10-18h30
Sundays 13-18h30
Closed on Mondays
KLOOSTERSTRAAT 90
2000 Antwerp, Belgium
Tel +32 3 33 77 110
Fax +32 3 33 77 112
Photo: Cityzine ©
STORES YOU MUST VISIT
BRANDING & DESIGN
24
Photo: Rikard Häll
JOHNVARVATOS
BOWERY, NEW YORKWords: Rikard Häll.
Menswear designer John Varvatos took the opportunity to buy the
old punk club » CBGB« in the East Village from a bank.
STORES YOU MUST VISIT
BRANDING & DESIGN
25
Photo credit: John Varvatos
CBGB became a famous venue for punk rock and new wave bands like the Ramones, Patti Smith Group, Blondie and Joan Jett & the Blackhearts. John Varvatos did not want to see all that history from 1973 onward go to waste. When you visit the store at 315 Bowery, New York, you can still find elements of that dirty, rock and roll atmosphere and look. In addition to selling high-end clothes, the store also hosts live rock concerts and sells vintage and contemporary vinyl records.
Photo credit: John Varvatos
Photo credit: Adam Di Carlo
How the front looked in 2005.
Photograph by Adam Di Carlo.
NEW YORK, BOWERY
315 Bowery
New York , NY 10003
United States
www.johnvarvatos.com
Mon - Fri - 12:00 pm - 8:00 pm
Sat - 11:00 am - 8:00 pm
Sun - 12:00 pm - 6:00 pm
Photo credit: John Varvatos
STORES YOU MUST VISIT
BRANDING & DESIGN
26
A unique, original store in the hip and stylish district of Antwerpen Zuid. The great mix of brands that are both contemporary and relevant and the sprawling space make Hospital a must visit shop for both men and women on a shopping day out. This is a feel-good store for people who truly want to enjoy beautiful things in an inspiring interior.
Good to know: the shop is open on Sunday and there’s plenty of parking space on the ‘kaaien’
b
og
ne
r.c
om
BJ_Anzeige_Women_215x280mm_SS15.indd 1 29.10.14 06:41
MORE INFO:
www.hospital-antwerp.be
DE BURBURESTRAAT 4,
2000 Antwerp, Belgium
Tel +32 3 311 89 80
b
og
ne
r.c
om
BJ_Anzeige_Women_215x280mm_SS15.indd 1 29.10.14 06:41
INTERVIEW
BRANDING & DESIGN
28
ST
YL
E IN
DIC
AT
OR
Inte
rvie
w w
ith M
eta
Stru
ycken
ww
w.styleind
icator.com
INTERVIEW
BRANDING & DESIGN
29
Describe yourself in three words.
Passionate, creative, perfectionist…
Tell us the background to why you started Style
Indicator?
I started Style Indicator in January 2014, bringing all of the experience I had gathered during the past 25 years in fashion – I worked as a designer, a forecaster and an editor in chief of my own magazine, newStyle - together within this web magazine.
What is the goal of Style Indicator?
I initiated Style Indicator because there was no platform on which fashion is not related to the well-worn commercial path, to celebrity culture, to fashionistas and to superficial bloggers.
For me, profound information on trends, craftsmanship and creativity are the main focus. I aspire to tell the consumer – in words and pictures – the stories behind innovative and wayward directions within fashion design and show them that there is so much beauty around the world created by both famous fashion houses, renowned brands, almost unknown labels and individual designers. I follow the international trends but also my own intuition.
You seem fearless?
I take that as a compliment!
What is the best about your profession?
The best thing about my work is that it is so varied. Fashion is my main focus, but for me it is also related to other creative disciplines, such as interior design, art, architecture, photography and food. By delving deeper into sources of inspiration, craft techniques, cultural and historical aspects and lifestyles – which are the basis of a trend, a product, a collection or brand – I hope to inform and inspire other people and help them realize what creativity is all about.
Do you have any role models?
No.
What does your team look like?
I don’t really have a team and work mainly by myself. My husband Simon is taking care of the commercial side of Style Indicator. In the future I would love to work with experts in the fields of design, art, food etc.
You are good at networking; your best tips?
Always talk to people that you are intuitively attracted to, because they often have a good story to tell. I read a lot and visit exhibitions, trade fairs, etc. For me it is important to be well informed so that I know who is interesting, who to meet and talk to.
What are you most proud of in your career?
I’m proud of the fact that I made a living in fashion over the years but always managed, more or less, to go my own way.
What does a normal work week look like?
I get up at seven, do some yoga exercises and work till late in the evening. If I’m in the studio I walk the dog somewhere during the day to clear my head. Dinner is another break because I like to cook and enjoy nice, healthy meals.
What is the next big trend in fashion?
I really hope that the interest in real craftsmanship continues to grow. For me, true fashion is about beauty, vision, tradition & innovation, authenticity, emotion, eclecticism, culture, texture, colour, shape, tailoring, handicraft techniques etc. and I think many in the fashion world have forgotten this. The big retail chains will stay, but the middle market has to reinvent itself for the growing amount of people looking for creativity & quality.
Can you give us three strong fashions for next
spring?
Three is difficult, but ok: Seventies revival, softness & romance and utility wear.
The consumer is becoming more and more
environmentally conscious, what are most people
talking about right now?
I’m not sure yet, but I hope so. We have to be, because things really are going wrong with our earth. I believe in good design that you want to keep and wear over and over again …fashion that lasts
What happens in 2015, have you any new challenges
and projects in the pipeline?
I discovered that Style Indicator is not only a source of inspiration for consumers, but also for many creative professionals. That’s a compliment and my challenge is therefore to expand Style Indicator further. To realize this I will start asking a small contribution of a few euros monthly in 2015. People are not used to pay for the internet yet, but it is the only way to keep on publishing high quality content online.
How do you see the future and the way you might
inspire it?
The world changes rapidly. I think fashion, design and lifestyle in general will be more and more defined by the sign of the times. I hope I can contribute by informing people about interesting themes, developments and products that anticipate on the world in transition and add some beauty to our daily life.
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
31
CO
LL
EC
TIO
N
Nilorn product development
On the following pages, we will present our latestcollection. Our aim is to provide our customers with
inspiration and ideas on how they can take their labelsand branding to a new level. We are always on the
lookout for new materials and production techniques,whilst in the background fine-tuning the interaction
between design, production and logistics.
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
32
PHOTOGRAPHER Olof Händén
STYLIST Andrea Albertyn
In this issue we asked photographer Olof Händén and stylist Andrea Albertyn to interpret one of our latest
collections La Bohéme. On the following pages you can see the result of this boheme photo shoot.
Creative, eclectic and social - this is the ethos of La Bohème and the nature of the female clientele it
attracts. Whether they live the bohemian life or simply assume the style, La Bohème embraces everyone
without cynicism or judgment.
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
33
Dress Pringle Of Scotland
Hat Simon And Mary
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
34
La bohéme collection Necklace card - Earring card - Enameled metal plate
Dress Black Coffe
Necklace Iracema Boutique
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
36
Hat Billabong
Top Frances Pauls
Skirt Clive Rundle
Shoes Havaianas
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
37
Dress Stefania Morland
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
38
Hat Simon And Mary
Dress Pringle Of Scotland
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
39
Jumpsuit Nicci Boutiques
Necklace Iracema Boutique
Shoes Mimco
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
40
Hat Simon And Mary
Dress Stefania Morland
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
41
Gilet Yarra Trail
Dress Pringle of Scotland
Belt Patrizia Pepe
Shoes Mimco
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
42
Gilet Anna Scott
Photo Olof Händén
Styling Andrea Albertyn @sncm agency
Hair and Make up Nandi Kai @sncm agency
Model Alexa / Boss Model agency
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
43
Rigby is one of several brands sold through an international retail chain. Rigby has managed to attracta fashion-conscious clientele. The collection is divided between men, women and children.
The style can be described as neutral and minimalist, while the clothes’ minimalist style ispeppered withsmart and stylish details. The focus is on interesting materials that often give the skirt a futuristic feel.
But customers will also find classics, such as the longsleeved cashmere sweater, at attractive prices.Basic garments of good quality, using muted or strong colour scales, are also among the best sellers.
The graphical style of the label concept is inspired by geometry, typography and industrial design.
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
44
Jeremiah Jones established his company in 1954. He began making winter coats and later expanded the business to include quality suits. Jeremiah’s grand-children, Zac and Jack, have now taken over the family heritage of experience and years of knowledge of well-made suits to start their own business.
Well-tailored suits and jackets and also shirts and accessories fight for attention in Zac & Jack’s first collection. The collection is cocky and striking from the start. Modern cuts and styles are mixed with influences from the 80s. Details in lovely pastel colours are Zac & Jack’s signature.
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
45
Tsoo [zu:] is a new and upcoming brand of children’s clothing, gifts and accessories. Garments for every age group are based on a heritage of quality and playful fun. Textures, patterns and colors are perfect for mixing and matching through sizes and seasons.
Children don’t have a lifestyle, they live every moment to the fullest. Tsoo collections all feature
durable materials which are »perfect play fitted« and can be washed carefree with no worries of bleeding.
The brand hopes to invigorate children’s senses and social interaction through clever use of color and materials. Play friends are encouraged to trade and display and assortment of accessory patches. Make every day as fun as a first trip to the zoo!
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
46
PLANTS FOLLOW THE SEASONS, AND
THESE PRETTY LITTLE THINGS ARE JUST
RIGHT FOR YOU.
The clothes are designed with young women in mind.
A woman who cares about how she looks and what she wears.
A woman who wants to be femininely elegant, but with a pioneering touch. The collection, which finds its inspiration in the shapes and processes of Nature, has a light and clean style with floral imagery without being too romantic or girly.
Simplicity and rawness permeate the materials that are paired with colours that remind us of particular tones, e.g. soft peach and metallic rose gold. This makes this concept young and modern.
Plants follow the seasons, and these pretty things are just right for you.
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
47
Merchant Wallace is a high-quality brand, built upon a design heritage stretching from 1942. The philosophy has always been to deliver inspiration, quality and genuine craftsmanship to their customers. Well dressed mature men are their primary target group. The garments are classic styles with traditional cuts. Tailored shirts, blazers, chinos and leather accessories are always available in Merchant Wallace stores.
The brand exudes timelessness and masculinity; in every detail. Traditional designs together with a hint of a mature, preppy style makes this a timeless brand for the classy man.
Razor Denim stylish denim brand.Using only the finest Japanese selvedge denim.
The entire collection is characterised by real qualityand the designs are basic but with a tailored finish.
Tough quality fabrics are generally used.Another way to describe the brand
is raw chic or street chic.
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
49
Aylin Demiz’s trademark look is known for its contemporary, somewhat different, take on feminine clothing. It has even been called »The New Look«. A master in the technical construction of clothing, known for its emotional and romantic power, but remaining determinedly contemporary in nature!
Aylin Demiz targets the feminine but strong woman. The creative professional or the professional mother. No nonsense clothing for the modern woman who wants to be taken seriously, without having to dress like her mother!
INSPIRATION
Minimalist art, unusual textile mixes and structural cuts and architecture. Strong independent women, such as Tilda Swinton and Cate Blanchett.
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
50
We understand that success isn’t easy. Getting in shape and living better takes hard work, an iron will and strong determination but we can’t give up when things get busy or difficult.
Looking good and working out with
the best tools on the market will maintain your focus.
The inspiration comes from the »new« health movement. Eating clean and training hard. Inspirational quotes in the centre. And some colour inspiration from movies such as 300.
You’ve had a rotten day – whatever. Stay on target!
Stay consistent, keep training and keep pushing.
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
BRANDING & DESIGN
51
SH
AI
DA
HA
N L
IVE
S F
OR
HIS
AR
T;
A P
AS
SIO
N T
HA
T H
AS
TA
KE
N
HIM
AR
OU
ND
TH
E W
OR
LD
. F
RO
M
ISR
AE
L,
TO
TH
E U
S A
ND
NO
W H
E
LIV
ES
IN
SW
ED
EN
. T
O B
E M
OR
E
EX
AC
T,
BO
RÅ
S,
A C
ITY
HE
HA
S
TA
KE
N T
O H
IS H
EA
RT
.
NO
LIM
ITM
AK
ING
ST
RE
ET
-A
RT
SH
INE
IN
S
WE
DE
NIn
terv
iew
wit
h S
ah
i D
ah
an
INTERVIEW
BRANDING & DESIGN
54
Shai was born in Israel, where he got his first introduction to art.
»My mother was somewhat of a famous watercolour artist in Israel. Our house was always filled with art. We would go to art shows as kids and I think that really set me on the path to ending up where I am today«.
When Shai was about 10, the family moved to Los Angeles and his interest for street art began.
»I was introduced to the graffiti scene in my early teenage years. Picked up my first spray can and went around vandalizing here and there.«
It is not something Shai is proud of today, but he says it opened his eyes to how you can use public spaces to deliver messages and art.
In his early 20’s he got into the skater and surf culture in Los Angeles.
»I was living in Venice beach, which was full of art, surf and a lot of sunshine. I began to experiment with painting on skateboards. The very first surfboard I painted was of a woman surrounded by hibiscus flowers. That painting was donated to an art auction, and musician Jason Mraz ended up buying it.«
Shai had a whole website called Deck Yourself, where people would order/ commission art on blank skateboards.
»I would spend my daytime working as a graphic designer and my evenings painting skateboards for people all over the US.«
The skateboards ended up getting a lot of attention and he met other artists.
Started painting walls
Eventually the skateboard thing came to an end when Shai began working together with other artists on other projects. He found his true passion in painting walls outdoors.
»Once I started to really return to my roots of outdoor public art, I couldn’t stop.«
He began to do art projects in Los Angeles and in New York. One of them was the Underbelly Project in which 100 artists from around the world painted an abandoned subway station in the heart of New York City.
»It ended up in the New York Times Newspaper. That was a real game changer in my career.«
When Shai moved to New York he was greatly influenced by the gritty lifestyle. That is where he began on his Birdgun series (depicting birds with guns for heads).
»It was a very New York thing, ’badass birds who will rob you for your sandwich’ kind of attitude. I think being where you are really does change how you work«, Shai says.
Shai met his Swedish wife-to-be when she was studying fashion in New York. They moved to Sweden in 2010.
»When I got to Sweden I fell in love with the natural feel of it and the history of things. Some of my best work and ideas came from me spending time at my wife’s family summerhouse.«
Nobody really knew Shai when he arrived in Sweden, but when he painted his own interpretation of the Dala horses, he got a lot of attention.
»I saw these wooden Dala horses all over. I assumed it was a famous Swedish artist who had made them. I remember thinking ’Wow, the guy is kind of lazy. He does not even put the shape of the horse into the wood. It is all blocky and square’. Eventually, my wife explained that it is a very Swedish staple in Sweden’s history and culture. That it derives from years and years of villages creating these things, each with their own colours and patterns.«
Shai went around Borås and Gothenburg and began The Dala Project which was to paint as many small red horses as possible. »It was illegal and fun«, says Shai.
He put them on electrical boxes on sidewalks, on construction walls, on public toilets, on walls and surfaces across the city.
In 2012 he was asked to paint a mural for the Borås international Skulpturbiennal. He did two Dala horses. From there it began to take on momentum and he still does some horses today.
»I think it really gives a whole new generation of people an appreciation for it.«
I WOULD SPEND MY DAYTIME
AT MY WORK AS A GRAPHIC
DESIGNER AND MY EVENINGS
PAINTING SKATEBOARDS FOR
PEOPLE ALL OVER THE US.
INTERVIEW
BRANDING & DESIGN
55
Change a place using art
In May 2012 Shai travelled with a journalist friend, David Fried, to Bethlehem in the Palestinian territories. He painted a large 5-metre mural of an Arab Bedouin on the West Bank Barrier.
»My initial thought was that we would be painting in Israel. But, David wanted to get me to paint on the Palestine side, and on the wall that separated Palestine and Israel.«
As Shai intends to enjoy challenging projects, he went along. The law, states that an Israeli citizen cannot enter into the country of Palestine. So the first challenge for them was how to get inside without being caught and possibly arrested. The second challenge was to remain anonymous once they were inside.
A family which very much supported peace in that region housed him.
»I didn’t grow up hating Palestine or wanting to occupy it. I felt that I had an opportunity to make something meaningful. I could sit and paint in the safety of my Swedish studio and express my frustration in my art or I could go and do it where it makes the most impact. So, I flew to Tel Aviv.«
»I kept thinking someone will figure out I am from Israel and there are only four people on the planet who know I am here.«
We spend the first day there just location scouting.
»I remember how scared I was when I first went in there. I kept thinking some-one would figure out I am from Israel and there are only four people on the planet who know I am here: My wife, my parents and the journalist guy who is here with me. If something were to happen, nobody would know.«
»I decided to do a painting that the locals can connect with. My journalist friend David had a few photographs of people he encountered during his time in the Middle East.«
»I looked through his photos and found one of a man tilting his head with a cigarette. You couldn’t tell if he was tired, sad or exhausted.«
After they finished the painting, Shai explains how they sat down with a group of old Palestinians at a cafe across the street.
»They had nothing but nice things to say about the artwork. I wonder if they had known I was Israeli, would the conversation have been different. At some point David turned to me and whispered to me saying »You are probably the first person in your family to sit across from a group of Palestinians and enjoy a drink with them«.
The project made a deep impact on Shai, as, he says, they changed a place using art. When he returned to Sweden he was invited to speak at TEDx about his time there. He became the opening keynote speaker.
This is also why he later did a charity project for the Project Playground children
in South Africa, in which he created outdoor mural works with the children; also teaching them art classes. The project ended up as the art exhibit »Recollection« in Stockholm, where all sales went to charity.
RIGHT IMAGE:
5-METRE MURAL OF AN ARAB
BEDOUIN ON THE WEST BANK
BARRIER.
BOTTOM IMAGE:
FROM THE PROJECT
PLAYGROUND CHILDREN
IN SOUTH AFRICA.
INTERVIEW
BRANDING & DESIGN
56
Putting Borås on the map
Shai was on assignment as Curator for the No Limit festival in Borås. The festival became a tremendous success.
The idea of painting murals in Borås was something he mentioned in an interview a long time ago in a newspaper. He said he would love to do this after he had done murals around the world in other countries for a few years. But to do something that big in Sweden was nearly impossible at the time. However, after the interview he was approached by the Borås Museum who made him contact with the people of Borås. Once they gave him the green light to do it, he assembled a team.
»It was a dream came true and I literally could not accomplish this without them. We put Borås on the map worldwide and the city will never be the same again. It is all thanks to a lot of people who really believed
in my crazy idea of ’hey, can I invite some friends to paint some walls?’«
The Swedish artists who painted some of the walls, such as Ekta, Ollio and Simple are all good friends of Shai.
»I had painted with them before and have been a fan of their work for a while. The street-art world is very small in the grand scheme of things. We all cross paths at one point or another.«
After the success in Borås, Shai has received more requests for similar projects, but he wants to stick with Borås.
»I am proud of this city. It took a risk by doing this and being one of the first ones to do so. I would prefer to stay here and continue to help our town with this. I will still go and paint murals in other cities and other countries, as I love doing large murals. But hosting the festival is something that I
feel I have a real connection with this city for now.«
The No limit festival got a great response worldwide and was even written about in the Huffington Post, which is one of the largest papers in the US.
»It is a huge success when we see the rest of the world appreciating what we are doing and recognizing Borås around the world. We may be a small town, but we have big things happening.«
FOR MOREINFORMATION, VISIT:
www.thevacantwall.com
www.east39.se
UPCOMING: Gothenburg in April 2015 A-Gallery
www.agallery.se
TEDx Stockholm in Feburary
www.tedxstockholm.com
I AM PROUD OF THIS CITY.
IT TOOK A RISK BY DOING
THIS AND BEING ONE OF THE
FIRST ONES TO DO SO.
INTERVIEW
BRANDING & DESIGN
57
Entering the fashion world
Since 2013, Shai also has his own clothing brand, East 39th, which he started with his Swedish wife.
»I have always loved the fashion world. It is an art form in its own right. There is such beauty in the process of creating a garment.
Borås is known all over Sweden for its textile manufacturing and its contribution to the Swedish fashion world. There are multiple fashion houses there and the city is rooted in the history of its textile industry.
My wife is a big part of the reason we started East 39th. She knows the business inside and out, while I support things on the creative side. We basically looked at the Swedish Menswear market and decided not to follow what everyone else was doing. We searched for the gap, what was basically missing in the market.«
The couple wanted to create something original, something unique and fresh that people had not seen before.
»I think Menswear fashion in Sweden lacked something I have seen in New York: art-inspired garments. Something that makes you stand out and makes a statement. So we decided to create East 39th.
The name is named after the street where Shai and his wife lived in New York. They wanted to remind themselves what they are doing: creating a New York urban attitude
for a Swedish market.»I told my wife that I don’t want to create
a clothing brand. I want to create art that happens to be on clothes.«
All of East 39th’s garments come with original artwork. All of the prints on the menswear tees come from original artwork Shai created on canvas.
»I wanted people to feel they were buying a work of art, not a t-shirt. When we ship our online orders, they come in brown shipping bags and I personally hand-stencil each individually. The labels inside our shirts read »Original Art for Original People«. We make art and sell it to people who enjoy something special.
Living the graffiti dream
After finishing the No Limit Festival in 2014, Shai and his team were approved for doing it again in 2015.
»I’ll get to put together things like art festivals and teach kids about art, which I feel great doing. Shai says he gets to live out his dreams, as he gets to make art for a living everyday.
»I get to wake up and go to my studio, and that is something I am excited to be part of. I never imagined when I was 14 years old, running around Los Angeles with a spray can breaking the law doing graffiti, that 20 years down the line, that I would do it for a living. I guess crime does pay.«
I TOLD MY WIFE THAT I
DON’T WANT TO CREATE A
CLOTHING BRAND. I WANT TO
CREATE ART THAT HAPPENS
TO BE ON CLOTHES.
ARTICLE
BRANDING & DESIGN
58
NO LIMIT FESTIVAL 2014
www.nolimitboras.com
NILORN HEAD OFFICE
11
10
9 7 8
1
12
1. P E E TA
or Manuel Di Rita has a beautiful style
between street art and graffiti exploring
the potential of sculptural lettering,
both in painting and in sculptures.
2. SIMPLE
He uses his surrounding environment to
influence his style, seen in his technique
of blending clean lines, surrealism, and
geometric shapes that relies heavily on
his use of discarded wood.
3. APPEAR37
is our very own local graffiti master.
Despite his young age he´s done a
great amount of walls and are known
for a colourful and sharp graffitistyle.
4. NIRA DAHAN
is a watercolor painter with a career
that spreads over 30 years. With her art
reflecting her passion for peace between
nations, love, and harmony among
people, her art has been able to reach
international recognition and be in
demand for galleries worldwide.
5. ECB
is well known for his highly poetic and
brilliant black and white portraits painted
on either canvas or large buildings.
6. NATALIA RAK
often paints colourful humans and
faces with inspiration from fairytales or
a kind of imaginary world.
7. THE LONDON POLICE
or TLP are well known for their ironic
LADS characters and precision
marking. A very unique style almost
always presented in black & white.
8. KOBRA
paints with bright colors and often
portrays well known and famous people
with characteristic kaleidoscope styled
themes throughout his art.
9. CAROLINA FALKHOLT
has an artistic process on site that is
fierce and exact. Often with intricate
meshworks and typical motives are
semiotic imagery and female body.
10. EKTA
works mainly with painting in a very
special an abstract form, but also
sculptures in material such as concrete
and wood.
1 1. ETAM CRU
are »Sainer« and »Bezt« often portraying
real objects and figures in untypical
contexts of a world of imagination where
meanings are not strictly defined.
12. OLLIO
or Jonathan Josefsson, well known
for his impressive organic forms and
patterns often with a playful touch.
NO LIMIT FESTIVAL 2015, September 3-6
BRANDING & DESIGN
59
100% DESIGN
100% DESIGN
23-26 SEPTEMBER 2015Olympia London
www.100percentdesign.co.uk
100%DESIGN100% DESIGN: THE UK’S LARGEST AND
LONGEST RUNNING CONTEMPORARY
DESIGN EVENT.
Now in its 20th year, 100% Design is the centrepiece of the London Design Festival, which consists of 350 events and exhibitions held all across London and is one of the world’s most important annual design events.
100% Design is officially the largest and longest running contemporary design event in the UK, with over 30,000 visitors, including architects, interior designers, product designers and retailers.
Opened this year by Philippe Starck and held over 4 days at the Earls Court Exhibition Centre (for the last time) before moving to the iconic London Olympia next year, you enter the event through a central tunnel and emerge into a bar where the individual entrances to each of the fair’s 7 areas are revealed.
• Interiors • Workplace • Kitchens & Bathrooms • Eco • Design & Build • Emerging Brands • International Pavilions
Upon choosing your desired area, and venturing through, the fair instantly opens up into a vast array of inspiration and visual stimulation, abuzz with people and product.
The event showcases a great mix of modern design processes, such as 3D printing alongside more traditional themes, such as ceramics but all with a contemporary twist.
There truly is something for everyone in all fields of design. On the following pages you can read about a small selection of what we thought was interesting.
100% DESIGN
BRANDING & DESIGN
60
We are the brand that combines materials and
traditional techniques with creative drawing.
Every DAM piece is produced in Portugal.
PIPO stool or side table
More info: www.dam.pt
Recycling is one of OOObject’s important
concepts. It does also represent their
question towards recycling. »We aim to
deliver the green message to everyone,
especially our next generation.«
MID dumbbell handle
More info: www.ooobject.com
The bespoke art of acoustic textile wall installations.
100% wool felt made. Cut, sewn and finished by hand,
our unigue choice of luxury matural fabrics are crafted
into interior textiles designed to harmonise timelessly
with any settings.
More info: www.annekyyroquinn.com
DAM
OOOBJECT
ANNE KYYRÖ QUINN
BRANDING & DESIGN
61
100% DESIGN
Geometric, organic and completely
unique, Lozi handcrafts individual pieces
that embody simplicity and elegance.
LOZI is also a zambian word meaning ‘plain’
More info: www.lozidesign.com
Our future depends on the next generation
who shoulder the responsibility of protecting
the scarce environment for saving the earth.
We integrate recycled materials in toys,
serving as an early education to our children.
NOOD toy car
More info: www.ooobject.com
Nomadka is a multifunctional bag
that successfully combines usefulness
with durable material, protection from
unexpected and aesthetic completeness.
More info: www.studionomadka.com
LOZI
OOOBJECT
NOMADKA
PANTONE
BRANDING & DESIGN
63
PANTONE®
Color inspiration often comes from unexpected places.
Which color is your favorit?
MARSALASkimmia Japonica
»Rubella«
STILT GREEN
Eucalyptus
Poppel
KIWIParrot tulip
»Tulipam
psittacus«
PAPYRUS
Willow
Salix
HERBAL GARDEN
Green Bell
Thlaspi
INTERVIEW
BRANDING & DESIGN
64
Designer Mads Nørgaard is a household name in Denmark. His clothing brand is a
synonym for high quality design, not only in the Nordic fashion
world, but all across Europe. In addition to fashion design, he is also known for
his designs for theatre and ballet, articles, reviews, and is a member of several
committees, including the Roskilde music festival.
Branding & Design met up with the designer for a face-to-face
interview at his atelier in Copenhagen to find out more about the
Mads Nørgaard universe and its philosophy…
What is the philosophy behind Mads
Nørgaard?
What you wear should support you in your ways and beliefs, and by that we mean it should empower you and strengthen you. It shouldn’t overrule your personality; it should compliment your personality. Therefore, we make affordable, under- standable and wearable clothes. Original designs at affordable prices that you hopefully like the minute you see them. Producing clothes in the Western World today only makes sense if you do something new and original! People need to fall in love with it instantly. Almost everybody today has enough clothes, and if
all of the shops closed down tomorrow there would be enough clothing to last the next three or five years. I am a true Modernist and I do believe that things improve! You know that hedonistic impulse when you see something you did not know existed, never knew you wanted it, and suddenly you need it. That’s the feeling when you fall for it! I am sure there is a God above and when he invented Fashion that was his idea of how Fashion should be!
Your first store opened in 1986 and over
the years your brand has successfully
expanded from men only, to include
woman’s and children’s ranges and
today is sold internationally. What
makes Mads Nørgaard such a long
lasting company?
Hopefully a little talent, definitely a lot of stubbornness and probably a little bit of luck! Others would have to judge that? But when I started out in this business I always thought and hoped that it would be a long lasting thing. I am the third generation of a family involved in the textile industry. My grandfather had a shop selling mourning clothes, and when he died in 1944 my father took over. Then, he opened his own shop in 1961. So the idea of owning a long lasting company has always been in my thoughts.
Interview by Damien Lynch
Images Courtesy of Mads Nørgaard
INTERVIEW
BRANDING & DESIGN
65
MADS NØRGAARD WITH INTERNATIONAL
TOP MODEL HANNE GABY.
INTERVIEW
BRANDING & DESIGN
66
With your years of experience in
fashion, what do you think has been
the most positive change in the fashion
industry over the last 20 years?
For me this definitely has to be the evolvement of men’s fashion and how it has progressed over the last 20 years. When I started out in 1986 it was brand new that men could be tough guys, but also have a softer side. This was brand new at the time. Today this seems banal. Both men and woman have been empowered by the way fashion has developed, but especially the way we look at men’s fashion. One of the most visible features is that there are far less men wearing suits than 20 years ago. Today most men don’t need to wear a suit, and they wouldn’t unless they have to go to a wedding, funeral or to the bank to ask for a bigger loan. Also, the way street wear and sneakers have integrated them-selves into the fashion world, and the way men have a very clear voice in fashion. I think this has been the most radical change. Women, especially in the northern countries, now wear their clothes in a way that allows them to be both mothers and have
ambitious careers! Women wear clothes in which they can cycle to work, feel sexy and be practical at the same time. This is done to perfection in Scandinavia. Whereas if you look at France, Italy or Spain it’s still like you either do one or the other. If they are dressed up, she will have to be picked up in a car to get to work and so on. Whereas in Denmark the two genders are completely even and I think that is a great achievement.
What do you think has been the
most negative change in the fashion
industry over the last 20 years?
I think the most negative thing in the fashion industry today is the way fashion has conquered the world. Every aspect of cultural and fashionable life has been infected by it. Whereas, in the old days, fashion-thinking was only for fashion insiders, now it’s everywhere and in everything. Today, fashion-thinking is in almost every aspect of our lives; so much so that people expect change and want something new every three to six months!
PHOTOS FROM MADS NØRGAARD
MANS & WOMENS COLLECTIONS
FOR SPRING SUMMER 2015.
BOTTOM IMAGE:
MADS NØRGAARD AS HIMSELF
IN THE DANISH VERSION OF
THE DONALD DUCK COMIC.
COURTESY OF EGMONT
CREATIVE CENTER.
© DISNEY
INTERVIEW
BRANDING & DESIGN
67
What has been your greatest
professional achievement?
There have been several highlights, but the thing I am most proud of is that today we have a company that is on-going, customers that are paying, produces something that people want, and that we do this with our own standards and values. But of course nothing beats being in a cartoon spread in the Danish version of Disney’s Donald Duck!
How is your relationship with Nilorn
Denmark?
It’s really, really good! For example, I wanted to change my logo and adjust it for our spring 15 collection and there had been a misunderstanding between our production department and myself, resulting in a very tight timeline. Michael from Nilorn Denmark fixed things and had everything ready for us just at the right moment, saving all of our asses at once!
Where do you see yourself in 5 years
time?
Here I hope! I love working here and I hope that we still have a relevant place in fashion in five years time, hopefully with some more shops of my own, and hopefully with the same staff who are as committed and as good to work with as they are today!
STORE IN COPENHAGEN
RECAP
BRANDING & DESIGN
68
PEBBLE CREEK
GRINDSTONE
GST 12
PB 016
BEAT 405
LH 207
BEAT 305
AM 008
PB 014
BR 109
SMYTHÉ 08 BEAT 205
EZC 103 SPROUT 018
YAMA 105 PB 015
SMYTHÉ 07 ETC 111
BEAT 2
LINNEA HANSEN
BEAT 2
AMELIA
PEBBLE CREEK
BARRY RAGS
SMYTHÉ BEAT 2
EZ CARGO SPROUT
YAMA PEBBLE CREEK
SMYTHÉ ETC
ZIPPER PULLER COLLECTION BY NILORN
ARTICLE
BRANDING & DESIGN
70
MC
ALSO
N
PO
RT
RA
I T O F A
Belgian
family b
usiness
ARTICLE
BRANDING & DESIGN
71
Deren has fashion and entrepreneurialism running through his veins. As his children are becoming involved in the family business, it turns out they are the third generation to leave their mark on Belgium’s fashion industry. »Both my parents and my parents-in-law were from families active in the textile industry«, recounts Deren. »My father-in-law started a company in Brussels in the 60s, and my wife and I took it over in 1981. At first we were an agency that distributed English products to the Belgian market. In 1997 we decided to launch our own product line, and that’s how we started making sweaters.«
Shortly after that venture, the couple decided to further expand their business. »We also distributed an underwear brand at the time, but weren’t satisfied with its level of innovation. So we decided to start a new brand of underwear, too, and that is how McAlson started. We first concentrated on Belgium and then slowly crossed the borders to the Netherlands, France and further afield. In Europe, we’ve managed to create quite a satisfactory presence, so that we can now focus on going even further.«
Survival and growth
Like many other small to medium enterprises, times have been tough over the past decennia, but McAlson lived through both the crisis in 2000 and that of 2008, and survived. »Especially in 2008, we immediately felt the effect of the crisis. We even experienced a moment of panic, but in 2009 our sales picked up again and went back to the way they were before«, explains Deren. »Today the European market is still in a bit of trouble, but McAlson has succeeded in steadily growing throughout the past few
years. The market has changed though, and it’s become a lot more difficult to sell your products. Before, when a customer liked your product, he would place an order immediately discovering it. Now, he/she needs some time. There’s a waiting period of at least six months - they’ll wait to visit one more trade fair and only then place their first order.«
According to the founding father of McAlson, the true strength of the brand lies in the uniqueness of its product. »First of all there is the special comfort system: the inner soft cotton jersey pocket. We were the first to have an exclusive licence for that. Today we see a lot of copycats, but they don’t really bother us. That’s probably because we offer so much more than just a comfortable boxer. Our entire collection is exclusive: we create all of the designs ourselves, and work with a Belgian artist from Ghent, who creates illustrations just for us.« Every season, McAlson offers new designs, and manages to surprise even the most loyal of customers with its new collections. »I think that is the main reason why we’re still enjoying growth in Belgium, even after 17 years. We follow trends, of course, but whatever happens, we always make sure we have a large selection so that everyone can find something that suits them.«
A look into the future
As mentioned, two of Deren’s children have joined him in the company. They are poised to continue their father’s story for many years to come, but seem more than happy to work alongside him for now. »I have 30 years of experience, so I’ve seen and experienced a lot. We work in an industry that thrives on renewal, but at the same time I’m seeing the return of things that I know from when I just started. Sometimes I have to explain to my children what I see coming down the tracks thanks to that experience. It can be a bit of a struggle, because they don’t always believe me (laughs). When we were starting our new project, I had to explain to them that it’s better to debut with a brand new style rather than to start with a style that won’t survive into the future. It’s better to bet on something that will take a little time to become popular, than to play it safe and end up being a follower. Followers are always behind.«
A couple of years ago, Deren thought of quitting and enjoying a different kind
RIGHT NOW I COULDN’T IMAGINE
LEAVING THE BUSINESS, UNLESS
MY CHILDREN KINDLY ASK ME TO.
McAlson: a family company specialising in a very classic product, but
with a vision anything but traditional. Pierre Deren: businessman and
patriarch who encourages his children to find their own path, within or
without his company. It’s a combination that seems to hold the key to
success, because Belgian boxer shorts label McAlson from Ghent is still
steadily growing on the European market 17 years after its establishment,
and looks ready to conquer the rest of the world. Nilorn is proud to
count McAlson as one of its clients, and we had a little chat with founder
and owner, Pierre Deren.
ARTICLE
BRANDING & DESIGN
72
of family life, but he has since changed his mind again. »Right now I couldn’t imagine leaving the business, unless my children kindly ask me to«, he laughs. »They are young and they see things I don’t see. The past few years I’ve learned so much from them about the evolution of the market. Perhaps that is the best advantage of running a family company: you don’t think short-term. The fact that we are not a listed company of course means that we have less capital to work with. But it also means we are free to follow a long-term strategy. If we experience an off-year, we just pick up the pieces and continue. A listed company has to show results every three months...«
WORKING WITH NILORN
Labelling is an integral part of McAlson’s
look and branding, as it’s what makes the
boxers recognisable at first sight. Our close
collaboration with Nilorn has not only ensured
an efficient process, but has also provided
ample opportunity for creative brainstorming.
»We have been working with Nilorn for a very
long time, and it’s always been a very positive
experience. Two years ago we started working
with a stock system, thanks to which labels
always arrive within 24 or 48 hours«, says
Deren.
»But what I love most about Nilorn is the
creativity of its team. People sometimes say
’a label is a label’ but, especially to us, it is
so much more than that. It is fundamental to
our product! I think it’s a nice feeling to know
that the people at Nilorn are specialists in
what they do and they always come up with
the most creative solutions. Even when I don’t
always need that, it’s a really good feeling to
know that it’s possible. With every new project,
I can flip through their inspiration book and be
amazed by the possibilities. I can easily point
to examples and go ’Yes, that’s it!’«
shop online at oscarjacobson.com
