Brochure Cosm - ACTICIRE-En

8/19/2019 Brochure Cosm - ACTICIRE-En

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3 Waxes, 3 Benefits, 1 Ingredient

ACTICIRE ®


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THE3 IN1 EXCIPIENT: SENSORIAL, COMPATIBILIZING & ACTIVE

Gattefossé presents a new functional and moisturizing ingredient, designed to transform your naturalformulations:

ACTICIRE®

Of 100% plant origin, ACTICIRE ® is an active texture agent based on a complex of Jojoba, Mimosaand Sunflower waxes.

ACTICIRE ® , through its unique complex, combines the sensorial and functional advantages of liquidemollients, butters and waxes:

• A soft, smooth butter, it stabilizes and improves the sensoriality of your natural formulations

• A specific complex of waxes, it allows the realization of original formulations and textures

• Truly active texture agent, it brings durable moisturization and comfort to the skin. Its efficacy hasbeen clinically demonstrated.

AfterBefore

ACTICIRE® brings comfort and active moisturization.

Microrelief pictures: Evaluation of skin microrelief improvement.


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INNOVATIVE COMPLEX

ACTICIRE ® , the new Gattefossé innovation comes from the transesterification of three vegetablewaxes: Sunflower, Jojoba and Mimosa.

Jojoba wax consists essentially of long chain monoesters (C38 – C46)of unsaturated fatty acids and alcohols. It is unique amongst waxesbecause of its liquid nature.

It contributes spread and softness to cosmetic formulations.

Mimosa wax has a more complex composition, containing freephytosterols, aliphatic monoesters (C38 to C48) but also a proportionof inert hydrocarbon chains.

These contribute to the protecting nature of the wax and the filmforming properties. Mimosa wax presents a sweet, pleasant odor, wellknown to perfumers.

These waxes, with the exception of Jojoba, demonstrate poor compatibility with cosmetic emulsionsand low sensoriality due to their crystallization behaviour and hardness.

Gattefossé oleochemists have developed and optimized a method to transform vegetable waxes,bringing them both improved sensoriality and compatibility: a process called transesterification.

Sunflower wax is mainly composed of monoesters of fatty acids andalcohols containing 40 to 56 carbon atoms.

It is a hard wax, of high melting point and low color. It presents excellentthermal stability.


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TRANSESTERIFICATION OF THE WAXES

ACTICIRE ® is a blend of vegetable waxes reacted together under controlled conditions to create newmixed esters with possibly a saturated and an unsaturated chain. This blend has physical propertiesthat can be considered intermediate between a liquid and a solid, but different to that of a simpleblend of the solid and the liquid wax.

Polyglycerin, a hydrophilic and highly moisturizing molecule, is involved to create these new products.

The crystallization of ACTICIRE® is much finer than in the case of the raw waxes (see photos above):the smaller crystals are more homogeneous and are more compatible with emulsions, whereas thelarge crystals can disturb the water/oil interface.

ACTICIRE ® in apricot kernel oil (20%)

Blend of Sunflower, Jojoba, Mimosa waxes in apricot kernel oil (20%)


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A BREAKTHROUGH IN STABILITY AND COMPATIBILITY

ACTICIRE ® plays an important role in helping compatibilize the oil and water phases of an emulsion.

ACTICIRE ® improves the dispersion of water within an oil phase. This latter characteristic is particularlyinteresting for the introduction of water to traditionally anhydrous and texturing formulations such as

lip balms, massage balms and even lipsticks.ACTICIRE ® , at only 5% in a formulation, allows the addition of 15% of water to form a texture thatresembles an anhydrous balm, only more buttery, with a fresh application and a visible impression ofmoisturization.

Contrary to lanolin, these balms demonstrate excellent heat stability.

FormulaAnhydrous

balm5% lanolin

Anhydrousbalm

5% ACTICIRE ®

Anhydrous-likebalm

5% lanolin15% water

Anhydrous-likebalm

5% ACTICIRE®

15% water

Heat stability40°C - 3months

STABLE STABLE UNSTABLE STABLE

In this type of oil predominant formula, ACTICIRE ® can be used to:

• Facilitate the addition of hydrosoluble actives to traditionally anhydrous formulas withoutdeterioration of the heat stability

• Create innovative textures

• Improve the moisturizing properties.

In oil in water emulsions, ACTICIRE ® helps emulsification. It can be used as a substitute of some low HLB

coemulsifiers, creating interesting new textures with high softness and pleasant afterfeel.

It can furthermore allow reduction of the level of primary emulsifier. ACTICIRE ® is particularly compatiblewith natural, non PEG emulsifiers, including sugar esters, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, or glyceryl stearatecitrate.


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Rough skin feel Smooth skin feel

IMPROVED SENSORIALITYNatural textures of tomorrow

Natural formulations, containing a majority of vegetable oils, frequently present a rich feel duringapplication yet a dry afterfeel within several minutes, giving an impression of lack of moisturization

and comfort.This is principally due to the absence of a protecting film on the surface of the skin.

Vegetable waxes can protect the skin however, in their native form, they are difficult to formulate andoften recrystallize in the formulations. They also present a rough afterfeel on the skin.

In ACTICIRE ® , the crystals, smaller and rounder, form a smoother film leading to a softer touch (schemabelow).

Formulation containing vegetable waxes Formulation containing ACTICIRE ®

Sensorial demonstration

It has been demonstrated, in a number of all-natural cosmetic emulsions, that ACTICIRE ® improvesapplication and afterfeel.

In comparison to lanolin, a reference in moisturization efficacy, ACTICIRE ® clearly shows an advantagetoward spreading and softness on the skin, the soft afterfeel increasing with time.

The long lasting comfort sensation created by ACTICIRE ® comes from the perceptible yet light film onthe skin. This is particularly suitable for those skins that want moisturization and nutrition without anyfeeling of heaviness.

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1

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Thickness

Softness

Formula with ACTICIRE®

Formula with lanolin

Spreadability

Film residue

Soft afterfeel after 5 minutes

Soft afterfeel after 1 minute

View of the crystals on the skin

Comparative sensorial profile of 2 creams containing lanolin, or ACTICIRE®, at 5%


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CREATION OF ACTIVE TEXTURESACTICIRE ® is capable of absorbing up to 6 times its own weight in water. The swelling forms a soufflé-likestructure that presents an elastic, cushion soft feel.

Applied to the skin, ACTICIRE® forms a soft, smooth film that protects the skin against dehydration.

A clinical study was carried out during 4 weeks on 25 volunteers with dry skin, aged 28 to 68. Applied

twice daily, two formulations were compared, one containing 5% ACTICIRE ® , the other 5% lanolin.

Corneometric measurement is a genuine valueof the skin’s free water content. On the test

area, the higher the electrical capacitance,the more moisturized the stratum corneum.The entire panel showeda very high moisturizingefficacy after treatment with ACTICIRE ® .The positive reference containing lanolinused at 5% did not offer a better hydrationperformance.

TEWL represents the passive diffusion of waterthrough the horny layer. This parameter isdirectly correlated to the skin barrier function.A decrease of TEWL indicates a good protectiveeffect of a formulation.The results, obtained on 25 volunteers,

demonstrate that ACTICIRE ®

offers a 2 foldimprovement of the water retention ability ofthe skin, compared to the non treated controlarea.

Corneometry

Trans Epidermal Water Loss

Skin microrelief

The surface, known as “skin microrelief”, isa direct indicator of the level of the skin’smoisturization.With age, or in dry skin, the microrelief becomesuneven and disorganized.An increase in the skin microrelief, whichtranslates an even, organized network, bringsabout improved skin stretching and firmness.

As depicted in the diagram, the quality of theskin surface of the 25 volunteers is much betterafter ACTICIRE ® application.

T E W L r e d u c t i o n ( % )

Control lanolin ACTICIRE®

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-4

-6

-8

-10

-12

-14

-16


25

20

15

10

5

0

M o i s t u r i z i n g e f f e c t ( % )


6

10

8

4

2

-2

-4

-6

-8

-10

0

S

u r f a c e a s p e c t q u a l i t y

i m p r o v e m e n t ( % )


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The dry skin surface network of the inner forearm of the same panelist appeared very differentdepending on the emulsion applied.

Compared to a non treated control area and to a lanolin treated area, the ACTICIRE® treated area(orange rectangle) showed a better organization.

All the furrows of this picture are very well orientated; their uniformity is visible without any remainingscales.

control lanolin ACTICIRE®

D0

D28

D28: -9.1% D28: 0% D28: +10%

Volunteer #28: Microrelief pictures – Evaluation of skin microrelief improvement by a dermatologist.

ACTICIRE® BRINGS BACK A MICRORELIEF OF A YOUNGERSKIN!

Microrelief pictures clearly show the efficacy of ACTICIRE ® on the surface aspect of the skin: visiblybetter organization and surface unaltered by scales.


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ACTIVELY SUPPORTING YOUR CLAIMS

Two formulations, one containing 5% deodorized lanolin and the other 5% ACTICIRE ® were tested on apanel of 16 women, over a period of 7 days.

The evaluation of each cream used twice daily, morning and evening, is represented in the figure

below.

The results clearly show a very good overall satisfaction level and a strong moisturizing effect ofACTICIRE ® , confirmed by 100% of the panelists.

ACTICIRE ® also contributes to a feeling of nourishment, the skin appearing protected and reinforced,without the sticky or rough feel frequently associated with film forming ingredients.

50%

60%

70%

80%

90%

100%

The cream spreads easily

The cream is pleasing on application

The cream is non sticky

The cream leaves a protective film on the skin

The skin is moisturizedThe skin is softer

The skin is nourished

The skin is more supple

Product is pleasurable

ACTICIRE®Lanolin


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FORMULATION AND APPLICATIONS

ACTICIRE ® can be formulated easily in any kind of emulsion or anhydrous formulation. It is generallyadded to the oil phase then heated to 70°C for melting.

ACTICIRE ® is recommended for use between 1 and 5%, depending on the type of formulation.

ACTICIRE ® can be used for:

• Skin care O/W or W/O emulsions

• Addition of water to oil gels or sticks, up to 15%.

It can be used in lip balms and massage balms to improve moisturization and texture.

In sun care, ACTICIRE ® will improve the skin feel of formulations with high UV filter content (chemical ormineral).

ACTICIRE ® can also be used in make-up products to:

• Improve crystallization for an improved stability

• Improve application properties and texture.

A make-up innovation, ACTICIRE ® is particularly interesting for its capacity to disperse water intotraditionally anhydrous formulations.

ACTICIRE ® is well suited to foundations (emulsions or gels), lipsticks.

SPECIFICATIONSOrganoleptic characteristics: Aspect .................................................................................................................................. Soft beige waxOdor .......................................................................................................................................................Faint

Physico-chemical characteristics: Drop point (Mettler) ................................................................................................................. 53.0 to 64°CSolubility at 5% and 70°C ..........................................................................insoluble in water, soluble in oil

Transport and storage conditions: Store at room temperature.

Packaging: Industrial standard pack ......................................................................................................10 kg iron canSamples ..........................................................................................................................................available

Regulatory: INCI Name .................................................................Jojoba Esters and Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax .......................................................and Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax and Polyglycerin-3


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Color and protect lip balm SF 1228/F

I GLYCERYL BEHENATE COMPRITOL® 888 CG PELLETS 5.00 GLYCERYL STEARATE GELEOL™ 5.00 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 2.50 C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES LIPOCIRE™ A 10.00 JOJOBA ESTERS (AND) ACACIA DECURRENS FLOWER WAX (AND)

HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (AND) POLYGLYCERIN-3 ACTICIRE® 3.00 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE LABRAFAC™ CC 27.40 ISOSTEARYL ISOSTEARATE ISOSTEARYL ISOSTEARATE 15.00 SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL 20.00 CI 17200 (0.1% SOL.) 10.00II WATER (AND) FRAGARIA VESCA (STRAWBERRY) FRUIT EXTRACT FRESH CELLS STRAWBERRY 0.50 GLYCERIN 0.30III CI 77891 (AND) MICA (AND) TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE 0.50 MICA (AND) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (AND) RED 7 LAKE (AND)

HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE (AND) PALMITIC ACID 0.50

IV PROPANEDIOL (AND) EVODIA RUTAECARPA FRUIT EXTRACT GATULINE® RADIANCE 0.50 PERFUME 0.20

100.00

Heat I to 85°C. Maintain at 85°C for 10 min. Cool slowly under normal stirring. At about 45°C, increase the mixing speed(rotor stator 2 500 rpm) until completely cooled. At about 40°C, add II, III and IV.

Hydrate (H) and Renew cream MM 8772

I POLYGLYCERYL-6 DISTEARATE PLUROL® STEARIQUE 3.50 STEARIC ACID 3.00 CETYL ALCOHOL 2.00 SQUALANE 8.00 JOJOBA ESTERS (AND) ACACIA DECURRENS FLOWER WAX (AND)

HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (AND) POLYGLYCERIN-3 ACTICIRE® 3.00 GLYCERYL STEARATE GELEOL™ 1.00 SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL 4.00 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.50

II DEMINERALIZED WATER 61.60 GLYCERIN 7.00

MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE (AND) CELLULOSE GUM 1.50 XANTHAN GUM 0.30

SODIUM HYDROXIDE (10% SOL.) 1.40

III PRESERVATIVE 0.80

ALCOHOL (AND) WATER (AND) ONOPORDUM ACANTHIUM FLOWER/LEAF/STEM EXTRACT GATULINE® SKIN-REPAIR BIO 2.00 PERFUME 0.40

100.00

Disperse Microcrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum (20 minutes), then Xanthan Gum (10 minutes) into water+ glycerin. Under stirring, add I heated to 75°C to II heated to 75°C. Maintain under rapid mixing (rotor stator 2 500 rpm)for 5-10 minutes. Cool under normal stirring and at about 35°C, add the components of III. Complete cooling.

FORMULA

This information is presented in good faith, and we believe it is correct, but no warranty as to accuracy of results, or fitness for a particular use is given, nor isfreedom from patent infringement to be inferred. It is offered solely for your consideration, investigation and verification.

INCI name Trade name %

INCI name Trade name %


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GATTEFOSSÉ: 36 chemin de Genas - CS 70070 - 69804 SAINT-PRIEST Cedex - FRANCETel +33 4 72 22 98 00 - Fax +33 4 78 90 45 67

[email protected] - www.gattefosse.com

R E G I O N A L A F F I L I A T E S

W O R L D W I D E L O C A T I O N S

GATTEFOSSÉ is an independent, multinational companyheadquartered in France which creates, manufactures anddistributes specialty products used as ingredients by the cosmeticand pharmaceutical industries.Present in 60 countries worldwide, GATTEFOSSÉ enjoys a strongknow-how and position in lipochemistry, biology and extraction fromnatural sources.

GATTEFOSSÉ offers the cosmetic industry a variety of high performanceproducts classified as:

• Bases and Additives: emulsifiers, coemulsifiers, emollients,dispersers, solubilizers, thickeners…

• Traditional plant extracts• Substantiated active ingredients from vegetable, mineral and

marine origins.

C O R P O R A T E H E A D Q U A R T E R S

BRAZILGattefossé Do BrasilServiços de MarketingAvenida Paulista 568 - 7° andarSala 10 - Jardim PaulistaCEP 01310.000 Sao PauloSP - BRASIL

Tel. +55 11 7399 9045

CANADAGattefossé Canada, Inc.170 Attwell Drive, Suite 580Toronto, ONTARIOM9W 5Z5Tel. +1 416 243 5019Fax +1 416 243 8628

CHINA

Gattefossé China Trading Co., LtdRoom 302, Building N° 6, Lane 289Bisheng RoadZhangJiang Hi-Tech Park201204 SHANGHAI P.R. CHINATel. +86 215 895 8010 601Fax +86 215 895 8015

FRANCEGattefossé France5 rue MontesquieuF-92018 NANTERRE CedexTel. +33 1 41 47 19 00Fax +33 1 41 47 19 29

GERMANYGattefossé (Deutschland) GmbHFreiburger Strasse 19D-79189 BAD KROZINGENTel. +49 7 63 39 25 880Fax +49 763 39 25 88 77

INDIAGattefosse India Pvt Ltd2 & 3, Diamond Deck, Lane 3,Kolekalyan, Sunder Nagar, CST RoadSantacruz(E), MUMBAI-400098Tel +91 22 2665 6031/32/33Fax +91 22 2665 6033

ITALYGattefossé Italia s.r.l.Via Durando, 38

I-20158 MILANOTel. +39 2 49 54 29 50

Fax +39 2 49 54 29 69

SPAINGattefossé España, s.a.• Av. Diagonal 460 6° AE-08006 BARCELONATel. +34 9 34 16 05 20Fax +34 9 34 15 35 46

Gattefossé España, s.a.• C/Padilla, 73, 1° BE-28006 MADRIDTel. +34 9 14 02 13 11/16 12Fax +34 9 14 02 00 82

SWITZERLANDGattefossé AGHaldenstrasse 11CH-6006 LUZERNTel. +41 4 14 18 40 44Fax +41 4 14 18 40 59

UNITED KINGDOMGattefossé (UK) LimitedArc House, Terrace Road SouthBinfield, Bracknell,BERKSHIRE RG42 4PZ

Tel. +44 13 44 86 18 00Fax +44 13 44 45 14 00

U.S.A.Gattefossé CorporationPlaza I, 115 West Century Road,Suite 340, Paramus07652 NEW JERSEYTel. +1 201 265 4800Fax +1 201 265 4853

A C T I C I R E ® - G B - 8 5 6 - 4 - ( 5 8 3 2 B E )

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