Building a Lightsaber

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Build a Lightsaberby vv_767on October 1, 2009

Table of Contents

Build a Lightsaber .............................................................................................................

Intro: Build a Lightsaber ......................................................................................................

Step 1: Gallery - My Past Creations .............................................................................................

Step 2: Parts and tools ......................................................................................................

Step 3: Make Plans ......................................................................................................... 1

Step 4: The Blade .......................................................................................................... 1

Step 5: The Blade Holder .................................................................................................... 1

Step 6: The Hilt Body ....................................................................................................... 1

Step 7: Cutting the chrome sink tube ............................................................................................ 1

Step 8: Intergrating the MHS with the sink tube .................................................................................... 1

Step 9: The Electronic Guts ................................................................................................... 1

Step 10: Electronics - Basic Lightsaber, NO sound .................................................................................. 2

Step 11: Enhanced Basic - LED Control Board .................................................................................... 2

Step 12: Basic with Basic Sound ............................................................................................... 2

Step 13: Mid Level - Force FX Based ............................................................................................ 2

Step 14: High Level - Ultra Sound Board ......................................................................................... 2

Step 15: Premium - Erv's Crystal Focus .......................................................................................... 2

Step 16: Final Assembly ..................................................................................................... 2

Related Instructables ........................................................................................................ 2

Comments ................................................................................................................ 2
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Author:vv_767 ODST

I like making stuff when I have the time. But It is soooo hard to find TIME...

Intro: Build a LightsaberSo you have decided to take the final step to embracing the force. Does your path follow the Light or the Dark side? (I hear the dark side has cookies).

What ever side you are on, what follows is how to make a Duel-Worthy Lightsabre. That means, you should be able to wield this sword and bash it against things andother lightsabers with little fear of actually breaking the lightsaber. You may end up breaking other things, but the lightsaber will remain intact.*

Total cost of this project is $60 to $1,000 USD. The wide range in cost all depends of how crazy you get with your design. The cost of lightsaber I built for this instructais about $160.

The Video:

NOTE 1: This Instructable is very TEXT intensive.

NOTE 2: Most of the parts used in this tutorial came from The Custom Saber Shop (TCSS). I am not affiliated or employed with them. I am just a customer.

* The author of this instructable is not responsible for property damage, personal injury, amputation of limbs, decapitation, and/or death resulting from the building anduse of the lightsaber prop. All legal responsibility or resulting civil action due to said property damage, personal injury, amputation of limbs, decapitation, and or deathbelongs solely to the builder. The author is also not responsible for anyone falling into the Dark Side. The author will also not be held responsible if an agent of the Daside decides to fry you with lightning coming out of his/her fingertips*

Image Notes1. Luxeon III RED2. MR Darth Vader3. ElectroLuminescent (EL) Aqua4. Dual or Maul style ElectroLuminescent (EL) Blue
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-Lightsaber/http://www.instructables.com/id/ODST-Halo-Armor-Build-Part-6-Table-Of-Contents-/http://member/vv_767/http://member/vv_767/


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Image Notes1. The lightsaber built for this instructable features a crystal chamber with a realquartz crystal. Here is a closer look at the chamber assembly.

Step 1:Gallery - My Past CreationsThese were my past creations and experiments.I used to own a 7x12 metal lathe.I sold the lathe

Image Notes1. These two are Electroluminescent (EL) Wire.


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2. This is a stock Master Replica Darth Vader with the LED array in the blade. Notduel worthy as the array would break creating dark spots on the blade.3. This was a test of 3 watt read led and a clear mylar film I was testing. LED andlense was not aligned so the blade was not evenly lit. That changed when installedinto a hilt.


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Image Notes1. EL Blue, double-sided lightsaber.

Image Notes1. My first LED lightsaber.

Image Notes1. Crystal chamber.


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Image Notes1. EL Aqua.

Step 2:Parts and toolsYou need PARTS.

Go to your local hardware store and buy parts (some parts will not be available at your local hardware store and must be special ordered). If you have a local SurplusElectronics Recycling store near you (Weirdstuff, Electronics Goldmine), go there and rummage around at the old electronics. Gather anything that looks "cool", geekyfuturistic, funky, hi-tech, or would seem useful later on.

Go to The Custom Saber Shop to buy specialty parts:http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/

OR Ultrasabershttp://www.ultrasabers.com/

Also go tohttp://www.onlinemetals.com/http://tapplastics.com/http://www.mcmaster.com/

If the parts do not make sense now, don't worry, I will explain each section of the lightsaber in detail in the steps to follow.

The Blade:1 x 30-36 inch long Polycarbonate (pc) tube, thick wall 1 inch outside diameter (OD). Wall thickness should be 1/8 inch. This is the blade.1 x end cap for the pc tube (blade tip)1 x blade film ("corbin" film is great)1 x reflective material with a diameter smaller than the inner diameter of the PC tube.

The Hilt:1 x blade/LED holder (aka the emitter)1 x 1.5 inch chrome sink tube. 12 inch long1 or 2 x sink tube adapter. 1 to attach the blade holder to sink tube and 2 if you have opted for a machined pommel.1 x switch or button1 x pomel or end cap

What ever else parts you want to attach to the hilt body - grooved section, plates, gold trim, jewels, tapered section, leather. BE IMAGINATIVE. MAKE ITDISTINCTIVELY YOUR OWN.

The Electronic Guts:1 x High power LED (luxeon III, K2, V, Rebel; seoul P4, or any LED with a lumen outputabove 60). Decide if you want to buy an LED emitting a certain color or a wLED and use color filters. The l ightsaber I built for this instructable in theory should be pumping out over 300 lumen... In theory. You will see later how I accomplishedthis.

1 x compatible optical lense to focus the LED to 10 degrees or less.

1 x method to control the current going into the LED - for the example a BuckPuck was used. A Resistor can be used but that method is less efficient.

Sound: Optional, but without it you just have a stick that lights up. At the very least consider pulling the board out of a Hasbro toy.

Batteries,battery holder, speakers, sound board, lots of screws, vibration motor, crystal chamber, and wires.

Tools.Solder iron 45 watt or higher and some good quality solder.Hack sawRotary tool (Dremel) with sanding drum, cut-off wheels, grinding and shaping tools.Drill and drill bitsJeweler's filesa screw tap setscrew driversallen wrencheshammerGlue for metal or epoxyElmers glueGraph paperPencilSharpieSand paper, course and fine assortment
http://www.mcmaster.com/http://tapplastics.com/http://www.onlinemetals.com/http://www.ultrasabers.com/http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/


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Image Notes1. Polycarbonate Tube: Clear. 1" OD. 30-36 inches long.

Image Notes1. This can be clear or frosted acrylic or polycarbonate. Glue to one end of the PCtube AFTER you attach a reflective surface on the flat side.

Image Notes1. Film rolled up inside the PC tube. It acts as a diffuser.

Image Notes1. 1.5" chromed brass sink pipe.


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Step 5:The Blade HolderThe blade holder is the emitter section of your lightsaber hilt - the business end. It can be made into various styles and shape but it needs to have a hole in it for the blto go into. It serves three purposes:1. It holds the blade securely.2. It holds and aligns the LED and the Optics under the blade to light it up.3. It is the heatsink that prevents our LED from burning out.

Choose from the different styles on this page:http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Blade-Holders-C32.aspxMine is LED Blade holder style #3 with a stack of rubber o-rings and part of the sink tube overlaid on it.

A small hole needs to be drilled in a spot somewhere in the middle. That hole then needs to be tapped to accept a machine screw. A screw then needs to be put into thole so the end just barely juts out the inside wall of the blade holder. This screw is the blade retention screw. Now when making a blade retention screw you want ismall and inconspicuous. OR you want it to blend in with the rest of your hilt design. Thumb screws work well in blending in with the design. a small 6-32 screw works for being inconspicuous. On my example, the blade retention screw was incorporated into the brass accents decorating the hilt.

(Blade Holder images used with permission from TCSS)

Image Notes1. Blade inside blade holder2. This brass screw holding this brass decorative plate is actually my blade

retention screw.

Image Notes1. Style 4 blade older2. LED is mounted on this heatsink.3. screws to hold the LED down
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Blade-Holders-C32.aspx


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Image Notes

1. Style 82. This holds your LED star

Image Notes1. blade holder style 10.2. It appears to be made of pure copper. It is heavy. I lapped mine to a mirrorfinish using wet sandpaper. Lapping is done with the following sandpaper grit -300, 600, 1000, 2000

Step 6:The Hilt BodyThis makes up the bulk of your hilt . Not only is this the place where you can add a lot of personal style but this is also where most of the internal parts reside. How rooor cramped this area is really depends on how long the main body is and if you use machined aluminum parts or a chrome sink tube.

The main body can be a single aluminum tube chosen from here (mhs main body):http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Main-Bodies-C33.aspxThese are 7 inches long and just under 1.5" in diameter. They are machined and have female threads on the ends to allow the attachment of other MHS parts like theblade holder, pommel, and extensions. They also fit perfectly inside a chrome sink pipe. There is a predrilled hole for a switch. This provides the second most roomy

internal space for electronics.

Or combination of the above and parts f rom here (mhs extensions):http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Extensions-C59.aspxhttp://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Chokes-C58.aspxExtensions could be plain, milled, slotted, ribbed or taper to a narrower outer diameter (choke). They add length and design elements to your hilt. It could provide you the extra space for more batteries or give your hilt a completely different look and feel. If you really wanted to, you can build the entire hilt body out of several extensioInternal space however is very limited on these parts. Some extensions barely have enough space inside to pass wires through. Something to keep in mind. Like theMain body, these are perfectly sized to slip inside a chrome sink pipe.

Or combination of a Chrome Sink Tube and this piece (mhs sink tube adapter):http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-to-15-sink-tube-adapter--P162.aspxThe sink tube can serve two purposes. It can server as the main body tube Or it can serve as a sleeve/overlay that slips over your MHS parts. Using a sink pipe as themain body tube provides the greatest amount of space inside since the pipe diameter is 1.5" and the walls are much thinner than the machined aluminum MHS mainbody or MHS extensions. Using this method, you will have a main body tube that is smooth chrome that you can add design elements to like screws, jewels, leatherstrips, grips, cut holes and slots into. Just use your imagination.

OR The sink pipe can serve as an overlay - a sleeve - over the aluminum body tube and extensions purchased from TCSS. You can build your hilt using the MHS mai

body and extensions above and then cut and shape your chrome sink tube to slip over hilt to add additional depth and design. The contrast between aluminum andpolished chrome is also quite amazing.

An endless combination of cuts, slots, extensions and main body combinations are available to you when all three components above are used. All you need is a dremsome files, a drill and some screws.

OR you can shape your sink tube to serve as BOTH a main body and an overlay. To do this, take your 12" sink tube and select a portion that will be cut and shaped ina design and leave the rest intact. This is the method used for the example lightsaber in the video. For the hilt I used for this instructable, I used a combination of 1extension, 2 sink tube adapters and 1 sink tube I cut into a design I wanted. The sink pipe acts partially as a body tube and partly as an overlay.

So the next step is to show you how to cut the sink tube into your own personal design.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-to-15-sink-tube-adapter--P162.aspxhttp://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Chokes-C58.aspxhttp://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Extensions-C59.aspxhttp://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Main-Bodies-C33.aspx


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Image Notes1. chrome sink tube2. sink tube adapter3. MHS Extension4. chrome sink tube overlay/sleeve.5. Blade holder6. Pommel7. MR Lightsaber Construction Kit8. MR Lightsaber Construction Kit.

Image Notes1. Lightsaber build ENTIRELY from Modular Hilt System parts.

Step 7:Cutting the chrome sink tubeCut your sink tube to the desired length. Next get your graph paper. Cut out a section big enough to wrap around the sink tube with maybe a 1/8" overlap.

Now remove the paper and draw your cut out design.

when you are happy with your design wrap the paper back onto the tube and check for fit and aesthetics. Looks good?

Take the paper off again and put a thin layer of elmers glue all over the sink tube. Stick your graph paper back on. Wait for the glue to dry.

Once the glue is dry get out the Dremel and cut-off wheel.

CAREFULLY cut away the unwanted metal from the sink tube. DO NOT cut directly on the drawing lines you made on the paper. Cut maybe 1/8" of an inch from it. A vor a pipe clamp really helps during this process.

Once the design has been roughly cut out, switch to your sanding drum and grinding bits. SLOWLY and CAREFULLY grind away closer and closer to the drawing lineRemember, you can always take a little more off, BUT if you cut or grind too much you can not put it back on.

For intricate areas of your design use the metal files to carefully take off metal. Sand the edges with course sand paper to remove burs (metal splinters hurt a lot).

Sand the edges with fine sand paper to round out the edges so you don't cut yourself. When you are satisfied with your work, remove the paper and wash the tube witwarm soap water.


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Image Notes1. 1.5" chromed brass sink pipe.

Image Notes1. the sink tube has been cut to a design I had in mind.

Image Notes1. The blade holder is on this end.2. The MHS pipe adapter will be on this end

Image Notes


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1. And the MHS parts are now inside the freshly cut sink tube.

Step 8:Intergrating the MHS with the sink tubeNow you have a sink tube that does not look like it should be connected to the bathroom sink anymore. You should have something that looks like a work of art, or atleast a piece of machinery.

Take your Sink Tube Adapter(s) and slide it inside the sink tube with the threaded section facing towards the edge of the sink tube. With your sharpie pen, mark the sitube with dots in the locations where the screw holes are going to be.

Removethe sink tube adapter. Drill holes a little larger than the screw being used in the sink tube.

The sink tube adapter comes predilled and tapped for 10-32 machine screws. All we need is two holes on the sink tube to secure the adapter to the sink tube.

Put the adapter back in the sink tube and secure with the screws.

Test fit the hilt parts.

Video of the hilt put together but no electronics yet (except for Crystal Chamber LEDs):

Collect random parts. Keep them in a bin. Go get some thumb screws, LED bezels, leather studs/spikes, machines screws, etc. What ever you can think of to dress upyour hilt body.

Image Notes1. This is my "Junk" parts bin. Parts came from optical drives, hard drives, oldvcr, dead dvd player, etc.2. This is my "useful items" parts bin. It has switches, speakers, crystals,screws, motors, etc.3. switches
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-Lightsaber/step8/Intergrating-the-MHS-with-the-sink-tube/


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Image Notes1. Thumb screws look great on the l ightsaber body2. these are metal 5mm LED bezels. They look great on the lightsaber body.Even more so when the LEDs actually light up.

Image Notes1. I also keep a handful of crystals.

Step 9:The Electronic GutsHow bright do you want it? Do you want sound? How about some extra stuff like fake electronics, a crystal, feedback motor, or accent LEDs? This is when it could getexpensive.

Lets break it down in the next few steps:* Basic with NO sound* Basic with advanced LED control* Basic with Sound* Mid Level (with sound)* High Level (with sound)* Premium (with customizable sound and MP3 Player!)

For my example I went with THREE (3!!!!) Rebels mounted on one Star as close as possible. All are green. This was purchased from Xwingband who has made aninvestment to be able to produce these custom mounted Rebel LEDs. Powered by one buck puck and three Li-Ion batteries. Each Rebel I think puts out 130 lumen at mAmp. I have three so i think I am over 300 Lumen. More lumen equals brighter blade. i have been told my blade hurts the eyes when you look at it too long.

A fourth Li-Ion battery is used to power the sound board and accent lights. The sound is from a 616 board. There is a crystal chamber, and a feedback motor.

Here is what the functioning electronics look l ike outside the hilt:

Try to get as much technical specs on the LED you want to use. A good example to start is here: http://www.philipslumileds.com/products/luxeonk2

Read the Datasheet. Important things to know about the LEDS are:1. Minimum, normal, maximum Forward voltage.2. Minimum, normal, and max Amperage3. Light output in lumens at min, normal and max amperage4. thermal management requirements5. Size and mounting methods.

Note that white, blue, and green take a higher forward voltage than red, yellow and amber.Also note that LEDs respond more to current than to voltage. Feeding your LED with current (milliamps) as close to what the datasheet states will provide the mostoptimal performance.

Picture 1 shows my 3 REBELS mounted on one STAR. Besides the challenge of how to power these beast up was having a solution for the optics. Xwingbandprovidethe solution by mounting the LED emitters as close as possible to each other and providing a collimator with a large enough opening underneath to ALMOST encompall 3 Rebels.

Picture 2 and 3 shows how the lense (collimator) would normally fit on top of a star with 1 LED emitter. Not shown is the Optics Holder which keeps the lense centered
http://www.philipslumileds.com/products/luxeonk2http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-Lightsaber/step9/The-Electronic-Guts/


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Image Notes

1. One Rebel2. Two Rebel3. Three Rebel4. The LED emitters are connected in SERIES.

Image Notes1. Collimator. Get 5 or 10 degree.

2. Star with one LED emitter

Image Notes

1. See how the LED emitter dome is INSIDE the collimator (aka, lense)

Image Notes1. The collimator/lense


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Image Notes1. The LED under the Optics.

Image Notes

1. Push on/Push off. This switch is well suited for high amp usage.

Image Notes1. These are Normally Open (NO) switches. The circuit is ON when you pushthe button, BUT turns OFF the instant you let go. This is no good for a basiclightsaber but is used on the high end sound boards.

Image Notes1. I keep an assortment of switches in my parts bin.


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resistor then to the Red LED (remember, Red needs less voltage than Blue, hense the resistor). Both LEDs use a common Negative wire. Green was not used.Blue+Red = Purple.

See Picture 2 on how to wire a Hasbro toy circuit board.

Image Notes1. Hasbro Board. This board requires a Momentary (N.O.) switch.

Step 13:Mid Level - Force FX BasedFor higher sound quality and better light control, people have stripped the electronics out of Force FX Lightsaber previously produced by Master Replicas (MR). MR lothe license to the Star Wars brand but the Force FX product line was picked up by Hasbro.

The most popular sound board to use is the one in the now discontinued product called The Force FX Lightsaber Construction Set - AKA, the 616 or "Joe Jedi". This w

sold exclusively at Radio Shack. Why this one? Well with a flick of a switch you can go from lightsaber sounds based on Jedi to Sith (yes, there is a difference). Heck,set gives you the ability to switch the blade color from Red to Green to Blue. They only place I know to get them now is Ebay. I got two refurbished ones for $40 each.

The MR sound board can only handle 6 volts MAX. Any more and you fry it. The board requires a latching switch similar to the one used for the Basic lightsaber. Usingthis board to power the LED will limit your choices of high powered LED. Basically if your LED choice requires a forward voltage of more than 6 volts, this board can nodo it alone (example would be the Luxeon V , or multiple LEDs l ike I did).

This is the board that I used. Huh?? I know... I just said that this board can not handle over 6 volts. And my 3 Rebels in series would need 9.45 volts. In fact, the voltagput out by my three Li-Ion batteries is at 10.8v. How did that work?

Well with some applied electronics you can regulate the power going into the board and have the board just provide sound. Then have the rest of the electricity go intobuckpuck. That way you can have the MR board getting less than 6 volts and the LED getting what ever it requires (7.2, 10.6, 12 volt what ever).

Another method is to use a double pole/double throw switch and have two battery packs. One battery pack with low voltage to the MR board and another battery packwith higher voltage going to the buckpuck/resistor/led. Press the button and two different voltages are sent to two circuits isolated from each other. This is the route Iwent with.

Step 14:High Level - Ultra Sound BoardHardcore lightsaber makers are busy making other sound board solutions in the mid-to-high price range.

Ultra Sound Board 2.5 is currently available and more people are developing new boards. If the trend continues, soon there will be several to choose from.

The Ultra Sound Board is found here:http://www.ultrasabers.com/

It is also sold by TCSS.

Brief description:* the board supports most of the available high powered LED* Has an overdrive function to send extra amps to the LED* Supports multiple low power accent LED.* Has multiple Sound Options* Supports an auxilary button for clash lock and blaster block.

Wiring of this board is very customizable and feature rich. The maker of the board provides instructions on how to wire it all up. As mentioned earlier the Ultrasaberwebsite also sells completed blades (or complete hilts if you don't want to build your own).
http://www.ultrasabers.com/


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Step 15:Premium - Erv's Crystal FocusWell, if you have the money and the luck, Then the Crystal Focus is the way to go.

The Crystal Focus can be pruchased from here:http://www.plecterlabs.com/catalog/

Follow the link to the "Electronic Modules". Just to warn you, these boards are pricey and they are very limited in quatity. Erv sells them in batches of about 80 boardsand they sell out in about 5 minutes. He is currently on version 4.x.

To give you an idea what this board can do here is a link to the Crystal Fucus 3.0 Manual http://www.mediafire.com/file/hznmeummyyn/CrystalFocusSaberCoreV3.0-GB.pdf(I put the file on a different website so as not to overload Erv's website).

A brief description:* The CF can handle different types of high lumen LEDs. In addition it can provide power to multiple low power accent LED and make them blink in different ways.* The main LED can be controled to gradually power up, gradually power down, shimmer, and flash on clash.* Auxillary buttons can be used to add extra functions like blaster blocking, and lightsaber clash locks.

* The true power of the CF is the customizable sound "FONTS". Basically, you can create or download your own unique lightsaber sound. The master mixer of lightsasound fonts is NOVASTAR. Here is a link to his YouTube Channel to see the many things he can do with lightsaber sound fonts: http://www.youtube.com/user/greytal

* The Crystal Focus CAN PLAY MUSIC. ANY music. Just copy it to the SD card.

The sound fonts are stored on an SD card. Thats right, the board has an SD card slot. I wil l not go into how to wire the Crystal Focus. The instruction manual Erv Plecprovides does a great job with that already. Download the PDF above if you really want to know how it all works.

Image Notes

1. Crystal Focus version ##.##2. I did not want to give away Erv's secrets so the boards parts are pixelated.
http://www.youtube.com/user/greytalehttp://www.mediafire.com/file/hznmeummyyn/CrystalFocusSaberCoreV3.0-GB.pdfhttp://www.mediafire.com/file/hznmeummyyn/CrystalFocusSaberCoreV3.0-GB.pdfhttp://www.plecterlabs.com/catalog/


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Step 16:Final Assembly

Well, by now you should have a really fancy metal tube between 10" to 15" long. Perhaps 20" to 22" if you decided you wanted a Darth Maul type of lightsaber. The mcommon length tends to hover around 11.5".

You also have a plastic "blade".

And last but not least a pile of electronics parts - LED, circuit board, puck, battery, switch, speaker, low power LED.

Ohh, and wire. A spool of it. preferably two colors.

Well, lay them all out on your work table like the picture below and measure out your wires. Remember that space is a premium inside these hilts and a little extra wirhere and there tends to eat up all that space.

Where it makes sense, go ahead and solder up parts and wires together.

When it does not make sense to have parts permanently soldered together, use corresponding male and female connectors. Use as small a connector as you can findused male and female Header Pins like these:http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=553~~~~~~~~~TEST IT FIRST!!!~~~~~~~~~~~While the electronics are OUT of the hilt, connect up all the parts and power it on. Does it light up? Is there sound coming out the speaker? Yes?~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Ok, now comes the most frustrating part...Disconnect the wires that are on connectors. Now cram all that stuff inside the hilt. Each lightsaber is different. The layout of wires, switches, and electronics is as unias finger prints. So I can not really tell you how to do it. Just cram it all in there one way or another. Sometimes a compromise is needed, or a part needs to beabandoned. Or maybe your lucky and there is tons of room.

Reconnect the wires.

I have built several lightsabers and I can tell you that even though I learn a lot from each build, something I have NEVER had is plenty of room.

NOTE:MHS parts screw into each other. Be mindful that you are not twisting up your wires and breaking solder points as you screw in the parts. Tightens the screws, bolts, nPut in the blade. Tighten the blade retention screw. Hold your breath and move your finger to the ON switch...

POWER IT ON. :)

Have fun.

UPDATE:I accidentally fried one Li-Ion battery on the lightsaber last Monday (11/16). I took it a apart to make sure the rest of the electronics was OK. It is. (I should have takenpictures). Total time to take apart 5 minutes.

On putting it back together, it took me an hour! Keep in mind this is the lightsaberIassembled. I had hemostats holding wires in place while I used a needle nose plieto manuever the connectors and plug parts together. I had so many wires going every which way that I forgot what goes to what! Thank goodness I thought ahead ancolor coded everything (all negative wires are black, clash sensor is orange wires, speaker wire is brown, switch wires are yellow, etc)

While working I looked at my wife and asked her "Why do you let me do nutty things like this?!" She just laughed...

It is tricky and is is confusing and it can get frustrat ing.Just step back, take a deep breath and try again when you have cooled off.

Image Notes1. Here are all the parts. Already to assemble.
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=553


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Image Notes1. Other than removing the background this picture was not photoshop'd. Mylightsaber really was that bright.

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how to make asomewhat solidlightsaber blade

by cah el

Star Wars AT-AT ImperialWalker Loft Bed

(video)by

BykManDan

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whisper199says: Mar 2, 2011. 4:51 PM REPid totally be on the DARKSIDE (dont forget the cookies) NOT!!!

mastermind14150says: Jan 29, 2011. 8:53 PM REP

i'm totally gonna do this for a no more heroes prop :3

kage_no_akirisays: Jan 23, 2011. 8:33 PM REPwheres the boards on ultrasabers.com? i looked under the parts and suplies tab where you would THINK they would be kept...but there was nothing l ike thin the menu. all they have is battry holders, plugs, tips and the anikan gold activator button.

at tcss all i found were speakers and sensors under sound

kenkou ooku no seimigood health and long life
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les.com/id/CR-Tutorials-Special-Star-Wars-13-Two-Lightsaber-/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=relatedhttp://www.instructables.com/id/CR-Tutorials-Special-Star-Wars-13-Two-Lightsaber-/?utm_source=pdf&utm_campaign=related


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pman123says: Jan 21, 2011. 5:07 PM REPHey I was wondering about something...if I buy a pre-made and working lightsaber from ultrasabers.com, can I install sound? if so, where would I buy thesupplies and how would I do it?I would buy a lightsaber with sound from them but they are about $400...

dcatalystmxsays: Jan 16, 2011. 11:06 AM REPI have been looking into building my own lightsaber for some time now, and so far this looks very helpful, I have one question though, where did youpurchase the LEDs? I can't seem to find them except in bulk from future lighting solutions.

vv_767says: Jan 17, 2011. 10:57 AM REPsmall quatity orders are possible from MANY internet sources. thecustomsabershop.com, DealExtreme.com, luxeonstar.com, ledsupply.com. Google is

your friend.

Sergnationsays: Nov 18, 2010. 1:54 AM REPSo are these clash able, like some ones you can buy in store. just these are so bright.

vv_767says: Nov 18, 2010. 3:25 PM REPYes, my lightsaber makes a clash and woosh sound when swinging and hit ting, just like the $120 lightsabers in the store. Difference is that my blade wnot break or crack from a heavy impact.

StArwArsN3rdsays: Nov 9, 2010. 6:54 PM REPOther than a buckpuck, what can u advice me to buy on a cheaper scale, and if you did buy it cheap where did you go if it's online?

vv_767says: Nov 10, 2010. 7:59 AM REPIf you do not want to use a buckpuck, you can use the correct resistor control current and voltage to your LED. Resistors from radioshack is 3 bucks? Ifyou want to go EVEN cheaper, figure out the voltage requirement of the LED and build a battery pack at or below that voltage. Example, if your LEDrequires 3.2 volts, two Alkaline AA batteries would deliver 3.0 volts, there you go.

StArwArsN3rdsays: Nov 10, 2010. 8:13 PM REPThank you but i think the 3 dollar resistor at Radioshack shall work, I'm cheap, just not that cheap.

vv_767says: Nov 11, 2010. 10:34 AM REPIt is also a matter of efficiency. 3 volt battery pack powering a 3.2 volt led means all the voltage goes into powering the led. But 4.5 (3xAA) voltsgoing into a resistor to drop voltage to 3.2 v for the led means the voltage difference is converted into heat in the resistor. The bigger the voltagdifference, the more heat generated.

StArwArsN3rdsays: Nov 9, 2010. 6:26 PM REPIs there any way to make the hilt from scratch from buying the parts from a hardware store or is that the point of the last "Or" section in this step? i like to nso i dont go buy expensive parts that i could possibly find for cheaper else were.

vv_767says: Nov 10, 2010. 7:54 AM REPYes, you can just buy a chrome sink tube and an assortment of PVC couplers, joints and pipes. We some creative engineering you can shape the PVCto hold the blade securely on the chrome sink tube.

mikethemaster123says: Oct 30, 2010. 6:20 AM REPwhat lens did you use for the tri-star?

vv_767says: Oct 30, 2010. 6:49 PM REP10 degree with an extra large opening at the bottom. Not sure where it came from. I got it as a kit with the star.

lockhead sr-71says: Oct 30, 2010. 1:35 PM REPis the double sided lighsaber assenbly there 2

mikethemaster123says: Oct 27, 2010. 3:09 PM REPwhat website or do you have somewhere you could tell me about that has instructions on how to make a lightsaber with a metal lathe?
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vv_767says: Oct 27, 2010. 9:01 PM REPyahoo has a 7x12 lathe group. i learned a lot from them, but nothing specific to lightsabers. I am still a member of the group.

mikethemaster123says: Oct 28, 2010. 7:40 PM REPany links?

vv_767says: Oct 29, 2010. 12:21 PM REPhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/7x10minilathe/-- less moderated http://groups.yahoo.com/group/7x12minilathe/ --- Moderated.

vv_767says: Oct 14, 2010. 7:19 AM REPhi Sasq23. Yeah, some of the old timers have moved on to other things since the market has cooled a bit. Right now Crystal Focus is is the only option.Some of the other sound board projects have died as well and never saw the light of day. Sorry, no isntructables on the crystal chamber as I feel is should a total custom job. Basically, make it out of found objects around the house. On LEDs - Lambertian is a domed emitter lense so the light emission is conicaSide-emitting is just as it sounds, the light is redirected sideways, so the light looks like a donut when the LED is viewed from above.

Sasq23says: Oct 15, 2010. 4:20 PM REPSo I should go with a Lambertian then? or does it matter once you get the focusing lens on it?

vv_767says: Oct 16, 2010. 4:33 PM REPuse lambertian. side emitting and bat-wing will not work.

Sasq23says: Oct 13, 2010. 11:29 PM REPI was looking at the dif ferent Lux III LEd's and was wondering what's the difference between Lambertian and side side-emitting?

Sasq23says: Oct 13, 2010. 11:04 PM REPAnd it looks like Xwingband AKA incomsabers.com is out of business as well. Does anybody make this cool stuff anymore?!!

Sasq23says: Oct 13, 2010. 6:54 PM REPThey also stopped making the Ultra sound board 2.5. So what do we do if we don't want to settle for ripping the guts out of a toy?

Sasq23says: Oct 13, 2010. 6:09 PM REPCan you/will you post instruction on how to build the crystal chamber? Or do you sell them?

Applerustsays: Sep 29, 2010. 11:41 PM REPhttp://www.thecustomsabershop.com/ is down. Any other places we can get reliable parts?

vv_767says: Sep 30, 2010. 3:22 PM REPThe website was hacked. The owner of the store is working with his ISP to get the site restored.

vv_767says: Oct 1, 2010. 10:41 AM REPThe site is fixed.http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/default.aspx

vv_767says: Sep 30, 2010. 7:14 A(removed by author or community request)

Joeduke545says: Sep 30, 2010. 8:01 PM REPI really really want one but it is too complex for me, You did an insanely good job with it
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amando96says: Sep 26, 2010. 7:19 AM REP"The author of this instructable is not responsible for property damage, personal injury, amputation of limbs"

So it works like the one in starwars?

vv_767says: Sep 27, 2010. 7:18 AM REPYes, yes exactly like the one in Star Wars. I also have a Delorean in my garage that I just installed a Flux Capacitor in. jk ;)

If I write an instructable about how to swing a broom handle around your well furnished living room, I would give the same disclaimer.

Vergasays: Sep 27, 2010. 6:31 AM REP

This is a must build, great pictures, and isntructions, going right intothe favorites

techturtle2says: Aug 22, 2010. 2:53 PM REPNO ONE KNOWS HOW TO SPELL LIGHTSABRE!!! L-I-G-H-T-S-A-B-R-E that is how to spell it. -the grammar nazi

rciafardonesays: Sep 26, 2010. 2:56 PM REPIf you were a real spell Nazi, you would know about the re-er thingy that happens in American English and Bri tish English. You come out instead assomeone that does know neither Starwars lore nor proper english.

Snapshotsays: Sep 26, 2010. 11:51 AM REPFirst off, Sabre and Saber are used interchangeably these days, unless you're talking about a specific given name. I t's a British English vs. AmericanEnglish thing...

Secondly, a Lightsaber is a created work of fiction, given that name with that spelling by its creator, so it is in fact spelled Lightsaber.

Here's the Star Wars wikipedia entry:http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Lightsaber

rcisnerossays: Sep 26, 2010. 1:14 PM REPLOL.You are absolutely correct. It's a name. If you want to spell your name with a Q and U and V, it's up to you.

vv_767says: Aug 23, 2010. 10:20 AM REPL-I-G-H-T-S-A-B-E-R is how it is spelled in a galaxy far, far away ;).

Isn't lightsaber a made up word? Kind of like saying that Nissan made a spelling mistake when they created their luxury brand cars I-N-F-I-N-I-T-I?

bricabracwizardsays: Aug 31, 2010. 11:27 PM REPIt is a made up word but using conventional artifacts - Sabre (a sword) and made of light.

Snapshotsays: Sep 26, 2010. 11:52 AM REPIt's using the American English spelling, "Saber," not the traditional British English "Sabre."

dudeguy1234says: Sep 26, 2010. 7:13 AM REPAll of the books, comics, and other extended-universe literature (as well as the scripts for the movies) spell it "Lightsaber".

brandon9271says: Sep 26, 2010. 10:30 AM REPand If you Google "lightsabre" it says "Did you mean: LIGHTSABER?" I think that pretty much settles it ;)

bricabracwizardsays: Sep 26, 2010. 5:22 PM REPTrue, saber, not sabre, even on spellcheck it wi ll not show sabre. I forgot how Americanized we all are, and it was an American film

Aeshirsays: Sep 26, 2010. 1:46 PM REPMy brother and I each have a Darth Maul lightsaber from when we were kids when The Phantom Menace came out (*spits on floor*), a couple years ago Itook the blades out and duct-taped the hilt to a Daisy pop-gun I have, under the barrel like a grenade launcher, but even with the end. The lightsaber has twbuttons, one to turn it on for general use, and one to only charge up the capacitors so the next time you hit it, the lights will flash. So when I charge it up anfire my pop gun, I get a bang from the gun and a blinding flash of light out of the unshielded light. Not to mention the awesome whine of it capacitors beingcharged up before that.

By the way, awesome instructable, broseph. I should turn that previous paragraph into an instructable. WOO SUNDAY! :D
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30/30

lord vadersays: Aug 9, 2010. 9:44 A(removed by author or community request)

vv_767says: Aug 10, 2010. 7:36 AM REPI am not sure. Is there a hardware store there that carries plumming parts? Specifically, chrome sink tubes for bathroom sinks.

vv_767says: Aug 10, 2010. 7:51 AM REPThe specialty parts would be a harder to find. Things like the LED, polycarbonate tube, circuit board, film, and lense.

Just to give you an ideas of where the electronics come from - Crystal Focus is in UK, Ultraboard is in US, Makoto is in Japan.

These guys are hobbiest who took their electronic skills to build lightsaber specific electronics to sell to us.

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Building a Lightsaber

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