2. Introduction Linoleum is a floor covering made from
materials such as solidified linseed oil (linoxyn), pine rosin,
ground cork dust, wood flour, and mineral fillers such as calcium
carbonate, most commonly on a burlap or canvas backing; pigments
are often added to the materials. The finest linoleum floors, known
as 'inlaid', are extremely durable; they were made by joining and
inlaying solid pieces of linoleum. Cheaper patterned linoleum came
in different grades or gauges, and were printed with thinner layers
which were more prone to wear and tear. High quality linoleum is
flexible and thus can be used in buildings where a more rigid
material (such as ceramic tile) would crack
3. Advantages one of the biggest advantages is of course
durability. If its cleaned properly and maintained, it should last
for years. Its quite good for high traffic areas. linoleum has the
same color through out its layers. This means that it it gets
damaged, its enough to use some sealant for the damaged area and it
will still have the same color. Minor cuts wont even be noticeable.
linoleum is a little softer than other types of flooring. It is
also perfect if you want a quiet floor. because its almost entirely
made out or renewable resources, linoleum is environmental
friendly. The materials used for making linoleum are: oil, wood
flour, jute, cork dust, limestone. its great for kitchen and
bathrooms as its water proof. Spill can be easily cleaned.
4. Disadvantages one of the biggest problems with linoleum is
that it traps sub-floor moisture. If you have a concrete sub-floor,
then its not such a good idea to install linoleum. Moisture can
damage not just the concrete but also the linoleum. its not the
most expensive floor on the market, but its more expensive than
vinyl. Vinyl flooring is getting more and more popular because of
the lower cost and because it has many of the features that
linoleum has. linoleum tens to expand and contract. To prevent any
installation problems, let it acclimate for a few days.
5. TYPES There are several types of linoleum in use, based on
what they are made of and their colors and shapes or patterns.
Sheet Linoleum The most popular choice for linoleum flooring. Sheet
linoleum is available in the widest selection of patterns and
colors and comes in 6'6" rolls, making it incredibly complex to
install. Unless you possess the necessary skills, sheet linoleum
flooring installation should be conducted by a professional
Linoleum Tile Flooring Similar in shape and handling like any tile
flooring material, but provides a different set of benefits than
using ceramic or stone files. Its organic make-up allows for eco-
friendly use in hospitals, nursing homes and other medical
facilities or homes needing an anti-allergen environment. It has
natural water resistance that makes it a lower maintenance
alternative to ceramic or natural stone tiles. Linoleum has a
different feel to it than ceramic or natural stone, and hence it's
considered a better material to stand upon for long periods of
6. Forbo Linoleum This is actually a linoleum brand, which
produces different kinds of linoleum with names such as Artoleum
Graphic, Scala, Piazza, Passione and others. The Artoleum Graphic
product is the most popular, mainly due to its dirt-camouflaging
technology. These linoleums are durable and more resistant to heat
than general types. Solid Colored Linoleum Extremely popular,
providing a variety of colors and shades. The colors are durable,
resisting fading even over a long period of time. Marble Linoleum
Provides a great and elegant look. Marbled patterned linoleum tiles
provide that fancy, sophisticated look at an inexpensive price.
Flecked Linoleum Provides a unique pattern that adds distinction to
any room where installed. Patterned Linoleum Available in almost an
exhaustive variety of patterns, providing
7. Characteristics of linoleum: a resilient sheet flooring
material - ecologically friendly, made of natural materials -
composed of oxidized linseed oil, powdered cork and wood flour,
pressed into sheets with a burlap (jute) backing - water resistant
- heat- and sound- insulating - very durable and flexible
8. - typically imitated other flooring materials, including
tile, slate, wood planks, parquet, and even carpets - distinguished
by type (plain or inlaid) and gauge (battleship or A-E gauge) -
battleship gauges were the thickest type, ranging from light
battleship (.142" thick) to very heavy battleship (.25" thick);
burlap backing was unpainted; typical colors included brown, dark
gray and green - A-E gauges of linoleum were thinner than the
battleship gauges; burlap backing was painted; typical colors
included brown, dark gray, light gray, blue, tan and green
9. USES - residential flooring: for kitchens, hallways and
bathrooms - institutional flooring: in schools, showrooms -
originally installed over a wood subflooring. Later, a layer of
felt was sandwiched in between - heavier battleship linoleum was
common in offices, stores, hospitals, banks, lodge rooms, elevators
and battleship decks
10. - thinner battleship linoleum was common in light traffic
areas and where cost was a factor - 'A' gauge plain linoleum was
common in apartments or offices with moderate traffic levels - 'B,
C, and D' gauges were common in residential applications - 'E'
gauge linoleum was common in the automobile industry - the use of
linoleum was surpassed by vinyl tile after WWII
11. NATURAL OR INHERENT PROBLEMS with age, the linseed oil
component of linoleum oxidizes, resulting in brittle linoleum; for
linoleum with a high proportion of filler material to linseed oil,
this problem is aggravated - linseed oil darkens over time, causing
a change in the overall color and appearance of the floor; exposure
to ultra-violet
12. VANDALISM OR HUMAN-INDUCED PROBLEMS Mechanical or physical
deterioration: - abrasion in heavy traffic areas - indentation from
heavy furniture or high heels - water damage to backing can cause
the backing material to separate from the linoleum - exposure to
alkalis found in cleaning agents (such as ammonia) can cause pitted
and abraded linoleum; the alkali softens the
13. installtion Acclimate your linoleum to the room. Linoleum
and its synthetic alternatives are soft, pliable, and flexible when
compared to most other flooring materials. In fact, they're so
flexible that they will actually shrink and expand ever-so-slightly
with changes in temperature.[1] Though these changes are
imperceptible to the naked eye, they can cause minor issues when it
comes to installing and maintaining your floor. Because of this,
you'll want to give your linoleum a chance to reach its "resting"
size by storing it in the room you intend to use it in for about 24
hours prior to installing it.
14. Detach any base boards. Next, remove any baseboards the
small wooden "trim" pieces at the bottom of a wall that run along
the edges of your floor. Usually, this can be accomplished by
carefully prying with a pry bar, flat head screwdriver, or sturdy
putty knife. To prevent damage to your wall, try inserting a small
block of wood behind your prying tool as you work the baseboard
away from the wall. This keeps your tool from scratching against
the wall and provides additional leverage.[2]While you're working
on your baseboards, take the opportunity to also remove any outlet
covers that could be damaged by your linoleum flooring installation
project.
15. Remove baseboard nails. After you remove your baseboards,
quickly examine your bottoms of your walls near the floor to look
for any leftover nails sticking out of the wall. Carefully pull
these nails out of the wall with a pair of pliers, the "claw" end
of a hammer, or a similar prying tool. If left in, these nails can
present problems when attempting to lay your linoleum flat against
the wall.
16. Patch up pre-existing flooring material. Linoleum must be
laid over floor that's as close to perfectly smooth and even as
possible. If it isn't, the underlying imperfections will eventually
be reflected in the linoleum itself, resulting in unsightly bumps,
ridges, soft spots, and so on. If you plan to lay your linoleum
over the existing floor, check it to make sure that it is level and
free of imperfections. If you plan to lay it over the subfloor,
remove your existing flooring and check whether the subfloor is in
good condition. If your floor or subfloor isn't completely even and
level, you may want to try fixing minor issues with the tips
below:[3]Concrete floors: Level high spots with a grinder or
masonry chisel. Fill in small holes or cracks with additional
concrete. Wood floors: Use an embossing leveler to fix minor dents
and indentations. For more serious issues, use plywood underlayment
(see below). Existing linoleum floors: Repair worn
17. Alternatively, use a plywood underlay. Some floors and
subfloors just aren't suitable for supporting linoleum flooring
either they're too worn or damaged to easily repair or you'd like
to keep the floor material for use in other projects. In these
cases, it's usually best to use a plywood underlayment to support
the linoleum. Cut 1/4 inch (0.63 centimeter) underlayment-grade
plywood to fit the floor area you plan to cover with linoleum, then
lay this over the existing floor or subfloor. This provides a
smooth, even surface for the linoleum to rest on, bypassing the
problems of using a damaged or worn floor entirely.For tight seams
for your plywood pieces, use a pneumatic stapler about every 8
inches (20.3 cm) along edges. Don't forget that using an
underlayment will raise the level of the floor slightly, which may
require you to shave off a small
18. Determine the amount of linoleum you'll need. Now that your
floor is ready for linoleum to be installed, it's time to measure
it so that you'll know precisely how much linoleum to use and
exactly how to cut it. You have several options for measuring your
floor just a few are listed below. Regardless of which method you
use, it's important to make your measurements as accurate as
possible so that your linoleum will fit precisely against your
walls and appliances.One option for measuring your floor is to lay
down a large sheet (or sheets) of a heavy paper like butcher paper
across the area of floor you intend to cover with linoleum. Use a
pencil to precisely trace the edges of the floor area. Cut the
shape of your floor area from your paper, then use this as an
outline when you cut out your linoleum. Another option is to use a
tape measure to obtain measurements for all of the sides of your
flooring area. Sketch these results in a piece of paper and use
your measurements
19. Lay your vinyl down and trim to fit. Carefully move the cut
linoleum piece(s) into position and lay it down. Work the linoleum
around any corners and obstructions, taking care not to crease it.
If you marked and cut your linoleum so that you have an extra inch
or two on every side, the extra material will lay up against the
walls. Use your linoleum-cutting tool to carefully trim the edges
of your linoleum so that it lays flat on the floor and is flush
against the edges of the flooring area. Below are a few tips for
trimming your linoleum to fit snugly:Straight walls: Use a
straightedge or straight piece of wood (like a 2x4) to crease the
linoleum against the corner where the wall meets the floor. Cut
along the crease. Inside corners: Use V-shaped cuts to shave excess
material off of the linoleum where it meets the inside corner.
Cautiously remove thin strips of material until the linoleum just
lays flat against the
20. Apply adhesive. Now, peel back half of your floor. Use a
notched trowel to spread adhesive on the underside of the linoleum.
Follow the linoleum's recommended directions for use some linoleum
is meant to have adhesive applied evenly across the entire
underside, while other types of linoleum are meant to have adhesive
applied only along the edges. Allow the adhesive to sit briefly
(most adhesives used for this purpose recommend doing so to achieve
the best hold), then roll it back down and carefully press it in to
its place on the floor. Repeat for the other half of the
floor.Linoleum/flooring adhesive is almost always available at
major hardware stores (often under the all-purpose name "flooring
adhesive"). Always defer to the usage instructions included with
the products you buy, including your adhesive. if they vary from
those presented in this article, err on the safe side by following
them. For linoleum requiring adhesive all over its underside
(rather than around the perimeter), leave a few inches along
the
21. Stay off of the floor for about 24 hours. As your sealant
and adhesive dry, it's important to stay off of your new floor.
Even after your sealant is completely dry, keep traffic to a
minimum until the underlying adhesive sets completely. Replacing
your furniture too early or walking excessively on the floor can
cause the still-pliable flooring to deform as it dries, leading to
permanent bumps and divots.Many flooring adhesives will be
sufficiently dry in 24 hours, but some may require longer drying
times. Always defer to your manufacturer's directions and err on
the side of caution. Prolonging a minor inconvenience in the short
term can save you problems in the long term.
22. COST The average cost of linoleum is2$ or2.50$ per
squrefoot
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