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Introduction to Coastal Processes
Scott L. DouglassUniversity of South AlabamaCivil Engineering Department
presentation toLiving Shorelines Workshop
M arch 17, 2010Pelican Landing Conference Center
M oss Point, M ississippi
Copyright S. Douglass ( 2010)
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Alabama:60 miles of Gulf
beaches and600 miles of bay
and bayou shorelines!
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Pelican Point
Daphne Bayfront Park
“ Natural” shorelines of M obile Bay
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Alabama Port County Park
“ hardened” shorelines of M obile Bay
Eastern Shore – Mullet Point area
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Progression of the Typical Response to Bay Erosiontime = t1
At time = t1, the home is located on a receding shoreline.
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At time = t2, the homeowner constructs a bulkhead to protect the upland property.
Progression of the Typical Response to Bay Erosiontime = t2
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At time = t3, the homeowner’s bulkhead begins to interfere with the nearshore coastal processes.
Progression of the Typical Response to Bay Erosiontime = t3
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At time = t4, profile lowering occurs in front of the bulkhead leading to the loss of intertidal habitat.
Progression of the Typical Response to Bay ErosionTime = t4
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Loss of intertidal area due to “passive erosion”
Progression of the Typical Response to Bay Erosion
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Typical shoreline on eastern shore of Mobile Bay (circa 1990)
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Example shoreline on eastern shore of Mobile Bay (circa 1996)
6 feet
4 feet
2 feet
Note barnacles on
wooden bulkhead
Tide range here is 1-2
feet.
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Example shoreline on eastern shore of Mobile Bay
(circa 2006) Note barnacles on
wooden bulkhead
Tide range here is 1-2
feet.
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Questions:
• What is the fate of these shorelines?
• What are the natural processes causing the erosion?
• What can we do about it?
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M ethodology:
• historic air photo analysis –1955–1974–1985
• video-taping from air ( 1997)
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Location of Armoring in 1955
8% of bayarmored
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Location of Armoring in 1974
14% of bayarmored
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Location of Armoring in 1985
26% of bayarmored
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Location of Armoring in 1997
30% of bayarmored
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Armored and Unarmored Shorelines
70%
30%In 1997, 30% of Mobile Bay’s shoreline was armored.
not armored
armored
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Rate of increase in armoring similar to increase in population
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
1940 1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000250,000
300,000
350,000
400,000
450,000
500,000
% o
f sh
orel
ine
arm
ored
popu
lati
on
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71%
29%
In 1997, the most common type of shoreline armoring was a vertical bulkhead
vertical bulkhead
other*
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My guess as to what has happened since 1997,
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• Loss of intertidal area ( 10-20 ac)
• Loss of intertidal shoreline ( 4-8 mi)
* from Douglass and Pickel ( 1999)
IM PLICATIONS?
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IM PLICATIONS?
“The tide don’t go out no mo’!”walkingplayingoysters“jubilees”
Is this the fate of our urban estuaries?
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Questions:
• What are the natural processes causing the erosion?
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Big Sur, California
Dauphin Island,Alabama
Coastal Geology
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Laguna Beach, California
beach sand comes from bluff erosion and creek floods
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Mobile Bay, Alabama
beach sand comes from bluff erosion and creek floods
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•Waves at an angle to the shore transport sand
•Conveyor belt analogy
•“river of sand”
Longshore Sand Transport
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Breaker Line
Wave Crests
α = wave angle
Dry Beach
Longshore Sand Transport
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Questions:
• What can we do about it?
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1. Seawalls, revetments, and bulkheads:
Shore-parallel structures to protect upland property from waves
Shoreline Stabilization
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2. Groins:
shore-perpendicular structures designed to reduce longshore sand transport
Shoreline Stabilization
Groin
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Shoreline response to structures:
Multiple Groins
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Groins were once a primary tool for engineers to stabilize shorelines
Shoreline Stabilization
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New groins are restricted or prohibited in many states due to their obvious negative downdrift impacts
Negative Groin Impacts
Aug 17, 2007
Old MapQuest image shows new sand fillet adjacent to south timber jetty
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3. Breakwaters:
shore-parallel structures offshore designed to reduce wave energy and reduce longshore sand transport
Shoreline Stabilization
• An example of shoreline position changes through time
Offshore or nearshore breakwater
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Shoreline StabilizationNOTE: There are other functions for
“ Breakwaters”
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Shoreline Stabilization
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Nourishment with Structures
Louisiana Highway 87, Holly Beach
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Equilibrium Planform
Indentation, M, is a function of gap width, G:
32
31
<<GM
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Breakwater
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4. Hybrid structures:
Some combination of aspects of groins and breakwaters including “t-head groins” and “headland breakwaters”
Shoreline Stabilization
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Beach Nourishment
… is the most popular “shoreline stabilization” approach on America’s open-coast beaches today.
…no structure…just sand
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Nourishment with Structures
Headland breakwaters and beach nourishment form permanent “pocket beaches” that replicate natural pocket beaches between rocky headlands
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The shape of “pocket beaches” is controlled by the direction of wave approach and the location of the rock headlands
Half Moon Bay between Pillar Point headland and Three Rocks
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Diffraction Point – Headland
( Seal Rock at Pillar Point)
Control Point Headland
( Three Rocks)
Dominant direction of wave approach
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Diffraction Point – Headland
( Seal Rock at Pillar Point)
Control Point Headland
( Three Rocks)
Dominant direction of wave approach
Equilibrium shoreline
shape
Shoreline StabilizationOriginally, investigators modeled this with a
“ logarithm-spiral” shape
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Equilibrium shape downdrift of artificial headland
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Equilibrium Shoreline Planform
2210
0
)()(θβ
θβ CCC
RR
++=
(Hsu & Silvester, 1989)
Wave angle (degrees)
CC1
C2
Co
β
θ
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Artificial pocket beaches
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Yorktown, VA
Nourishment with Structures
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Headland Breakwater Examples
Potomac River, Chesapeake Bay (from Hardaway and Gunn, 1999)
Shoreline StabilizationBodge’s “ 1/ 3rd” Rule for Headland Breakwaters:
Indentation, M , is a
function of gap width, G: 3
2GM
31
<<
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Shoreline StabilizationRule for Headland Breakwaters:
Beware: Hardaway says that this ratio can be much higher in sand-starved situations typical of
the Chesapeake Bay ( as high as M / G= 1.7)
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a sandy beach
Can we emulate these natural shorelines in constructed
alternatives to bulkheads?
MORE QUESTIONS:
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Demonstration project of an alternative to bulkheads on bay shorelines
Brookley headland beach project - 2000
•built Aug 1998
•two low elevation rock headland breakwaters
•3000 m3 sand fill
•survived Hurricane Georges Sept. 1998
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(an alternative to bulkheads on bay shorelines)
•Short structures can stabilize longer stretches of shoreline
•more natural shoreline than a bulkhead
Brookley headland beach project
September 2003
Pocket beaches and headland breakwaters
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Today, this would be a vertical bulkhead with rip-rap at the base of it if not for this alternative
pocket beach.
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a sandy beach as an alternative
to a bulkhead
Marriott’s Grand Hotel Resort, Mobile Bay, Point Clear, Alabama
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a sandy beach as an alternative
to a bulkhead
Marriott’s Grand Hotel Resort, Mobile Bay, Point Clear, Alabama
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Beach nourishment - Grand Hotel, Point Clear
(three weeks after initial 2001 construction)
•an engineered “pocket beach”
•built 2001
•3 rock headland breakwaters
•6000 m3 sand fill
•extended in 2003•lengthened breakwaters •added sand
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construction2001
one year later2002
after extension2003
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“ Tuning” process for Grand beach & breakwater configuration:
• Wind data ( 27 years of data from M obile)
• Wave model ( US Army 1984)
• Longshore sand transport model ( CERC Equation)
• Dominant & secondary wave directions
• M odified form of Silvester’s method for predicting equilibrium shoreline
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Dominant wave directionsecondary wave direction
Predicted shoreline
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Pocket beach constructed in front of bulkhead/seawall
Marriott’s Grand Hotel Resort, Mobile Bay, Point Clear, Alabama
1998
2003
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Pocket “feeder “beach and artificial headland concepts in Fairhope
Oak tree and bluff south of Pier St. boat ramp were
threatened by erosion in
2004
2007
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2004
Pocket “feeder “beach and artificial headland concepts in Fairhope
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Fall 2004:
Roots exposed by erosion
8-foot eroding bluff
Existing bulkhead was functioning as the headland2004
Pocket “feeder “beach and artificial headland concepts in Fairhope
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Project: Beach nourishment as “feeder
beach”+
Timber artificial headland moved the diffraction point headland 40 feet to the southwest to stabilize shoreline farther from tree roots 2006
2006
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a “fringe” wetland
Can we emulate these natural shorelines in constructed
alternatives to bulkheads?
MORE QUESTIONS:
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Can we protect our eroding
natural wetlands?
MORE QUESTIONS:
Mississippi Sound
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How much wave energy can S. alterniflora tolerate?
One answered question:
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Wave climate limit for wetlands
after Roland and Douglass ( 2005)
e
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from Roland, R.M. and S.L. Douglass 2005 “An estimate of the upper limit of wave level tolerance for Spartina alterniflora in coastal Alabama” Journal of Coastal Research, vol. 21, no. 3, pp. 453-463.
The upper limit of wave energy for “ fringe” salt marsh existence:
- a median ( H50) H = 0.15 m
- a corresponding H80 = 0.25 m
Sites with less wave energy had vegetation along the shoreline.
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• Can breakwaters be used to reduce wave energy to levels that allow wetland creation/ establishment?
• I f so, then…
“ how can we optimize/ minimize the
breakwater”
“ How low can you go?”
MORE QUESTIONS:
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And…“ can segmented
offshore or headland breakwaters concepts
be used?”
MORE QUESTIONS:
Photo from Aspelin ( 2007)
Photo from Hauske ( 2007)
Texas examples
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Site
Constructed wetland behind a “ wave fence”
boat wakes and
wind waves
Dog River, M obile, Alabama
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Constructed wetland behind a
“ wave fence”
Wave transmission coefficienttechnology dates to D-Day!
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Submerged or Emerged Breakwaters
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( )bt
i i
b
b b eKH H
d B 3
41 2 1 ξ = + −
d’Angremond’s Equation
Predictive Data and Formulas for Wave Transmission
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( )bt
i i
b
b b eKH H
d B 3
41 2 1 ξ = + −
d’Angremond’s Equation
Predictive Data and Formulas for Wave TransmissionSubmerged Breakwaters knock down less
than 50% of wave height
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Do “Wave Attenuation Devices” really attenuate waves?
And how much?
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What do we do about our eroding wetlands?
Little Bay, Alabama
ADCNR photo
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Laboratory Tests of Wave Transmission though “Wave
Attenuation Devices”
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Laboratory Tests of Wave Transmission though “Wave
Attenuation Devices”
•ADCNR funded at Univ. of South Alabama (with Volkert, Inc)
•1:5 scale models
•Results: 40% < Kt < 90%•emergence•configuration (e.g. 2-rows)
•Increased height needed
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What do we do about our eroding wetlands?
Little Bay, Alabama
ADCNR photo
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What do we do about our eroding wetlands?
Little Bay, Alabama
ADCNR photo
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What do we do about our eroding wetlands?
Little Bay, Alabama
ADCNR photo
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Holt’s Landing State Park, DE
•Too much wave energy
•Fetch>5mi
•H>2-3 ft
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Holt’s Landing State Park, DE
•Offshore segmented breakwaters used
•Emergent breakwaters, little transmission
•Diffraction of wave energy through gaps controlled design (gap, length, etc.)
•Diffraction diagrams from SPM and Goda
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Holt’s Landing State Park, DE
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Holt’s Landing State Park, DE
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Holt’s Landing State Park, DE
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Holt’s Landing State Park, DE
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Pocket beach constructed in front of bulkhead/seawall
Marriott’s Grand Hotel Resort, Mobile Bay, Point Clear, Alabama 2005
This solution cannot be built along most of America’s bay shorelines!
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…this was permitted and built in 2008!
EXISTING POLICIES NEED TO BE CHANGED:
…now what should this property owner do?
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…why can this owner (rather easily) get a
permit for this…
…but not this?
MORE QUESTIONS:
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EXISTING POLICIES NEED TO BE CHANGED:
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Existing policies ( 2) are
contributing to the destruction of
inter-tidal beaches along our bay
shorelines
Why can this owner easily get a permit to build another bulkhead
but cannot get a permit to build a pocket beach?
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Conclusions•We are turning our urban estuaries into bathtubs with no intertidal zones
•We need to modify existing policies if we are have “ living shorelines”
• We need more applications of coastal engineering principles into ecosystem engineering
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Contact Info
Scott L. DouglassCivil Engineering DepartmentUniversity of South Alabama