Bullwhip From Upcycled Belts

8/9/2019 Bullwhip From Upcycled Belts

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I love the feel of a leather whip in my hands, but leather is a lot more expensive

than paracord, especially for beginners, and preparing leather for whip-making

is a major undertaking. Fortunately, secondhand leather belts provide an

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I'm a deck officer in the merchantnavy. I spent my youth on square-riggedsailing ships, travelled the world andlearned a lot of traditional crafts. For somereason, my main hobby the last fewyears...read more (/member/nic6027/)

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whip from Upcycled Belts http://www.instructables.com/id/Bullwhip-from-Upcycled-Belts/?AL...

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inexpensive way to make short whips.

For this project you will need:

Leather belts (see step 1 for more details);Paracord or hollow shoelaces;Steel BBs and/or lead shot;A thin, rigid object to use as a handle (I use spare needles for pneumaticneedle-guns, but knitting needles should work too);Plaiting soap (a mixture of soap, lard and water);A pencil and paper;A cigarette lighter or matches;

Fabric tape (the sort you find in the $2 shop) or electrical tape;A tape-measure;Either an aptitude for mathematics, or a calculator;A stanley knife;A lace beveller (optional);Hammer;Carpet tacks or small nails;

A computer with a browser and internet access;A printer;A toilet roll and glue or sellotape; andPatience!


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Step 1: Find your belts

The most important part of this project is, of course, the belts. I usually find them

for between $2 and $5 in Op Shops (I think they're known as "Goodwill Stores"

in America, and "Charity Shops" in the UK). The ideal belt for whip-making is

plaited from flat, strong, thin leather, and is of the type that is plaited from long

strands which are doubled-over. Low-quality plaited belts are often not made

from leather; these can be identified if you turn the belt over. The strands are

open at the back, and are wider strands of fake leather which are folded over.

How many belts you need depends on the length, width and number of strands.

In this whip, I used most of three belts: one for the belly (8 plait) and two for the

overlay (16 plait).

This step is simple, but important: you need to unravel the belts, measure the

length and width of your strands and write the measurements on a scrap of

paper.

Step 2: Plan your whip

Do you still have that piece of paper with the strand measurements? You'll need

it for this step.A whip consists of five main parts:

Core (the bit in the middle);1.Belly or bellies and bolster, where most of the work is;2.Overlay (the pretty plaited part on the outside);3.Fall and cracker (the part that makes the noise); and4.Decorative knots (usually turks heads).5.

If you look at your measurements, unless you're very lucky, you are likely to have

several groups of strands of different lengths and widths. The maximum length

of your whip is about 2/3 the length of your longest six good strands. In my case,

my best, longest three strands were 10 ft long (60"), which I cut in half to 5 ft, so

my whip was going to be about 2/3 of that, which is 40".Once you've decided that, you can calculate the rest (round the numbers off -

they're approximate):

Core length= whip length x 5/6 = 40 x 5/6 = 33 1/3" rounds to 33" for meLoaded length of core= core length x 0.9 = 29.7" rounds to 30" for meLength of strands for belly:

2 strands at 3 x core length, 1 strand at 2 x core length, 1 strand at 1 x

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core length. This is a minimum. If your belly strands are longer than this,don't cut them at this stage - you can cut them while you're plaiting, whichwill give you more control over your taper.

Length of strands for Overlay(assuming 16 strands):6 x 1.5 whip length, 2 x 1.4 whip length, 2 x 1.3 whip length, 2 x 1.2 whiplength, 2 x 1.1 whip length , 2 x whip length.

Fall length: use the strongest piece of leather you have that's at least 1/3 to1/2 x whip length.

Note:if you have really narrow strands, you might need more of them. A good

rule of thumb is that the total width of the strands when laid side-by-side should

be about 1.5 times the circumference of whatever you're plaiting around.

Step 3: Grease your strands

The recipe for the plaiting soap I use is 1 part grated soap (pure unscented

soap), 1 part lard and 1 part water, melted together. Some recipes use

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turpentine as well, but I don't like putting turps on leather. As far as I know, the

only reason for the turps is to prevent dogs on farms from chewing on the

treated leather, and I don't have dogs.

Rub the plaiting soap well into the strands. As you do so, pull firmly on the

strands to check for weak spots: it's far better to find and discard weak strands

now than to have your strands snap later on while you're plaiting.

Step 4: Prepare your core

This whip is halfway between a "normal" leather whip, and a paracord whip. For

the core, I've used BBs and #10 lead shot, packed into a length of paracord.

The length of the paracord is about 10% more than the core length you

calculated earlier. For me, that means a piece of paracord about 36" long. If you

don't have paracord, try a shoelace - as long as it's hollow and flexible, you can

use it.

Pull the core out of the paracord and set it aside for later. Insert your handle into

one end of hcarbon fibre rod, really long nails, or anything else you can think of

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that will fit into the paracord.

Use your lighter, matches or another heat source to melt the end of the paracord

around the handle.

Stick the point of your pencil into the end of the paracord that doesn't have the

handle in it. Use your lighter to gently melt the end of the paracord around the

pencil point, then pull the pencil out. This should give you a sort of funnel in one

end of the paracord. Start stuffing BBs into the paracord and pushing them

down hard against the handle. Keep going until the BBs fill about 2/3 of your

loaded length (remember, you calculated that in step 4), then fill the remaining

1/3 with lead. Don't forget to wear gloves and wash your hands when you've

finished handling lead: it's toxic. If you don't have lead, just fill the whole lot withBBs.

Tie a knot in the end of the core to keep everything in.

Step 5: Make your cracker

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Remember the paracord core you saved when you started making your core?

That's pretty good to use for making crackers, but if you've lost it, baling twine,

cobwebs, long hair, thin fishing line, sinew, or really anything that's fairly strong,

thin and light can be used.

Whatever you're using, take about 3 or 4 ft of it and tie it in a loop. It doesn't

matter what knot you use, as long as it holds. Hold the knot between your teeth,

stick a finger, a pencil or something similar in the other end of the loop, and

twist. If you keep twisting for long enough in the same direction, eventually it will

kink and twist up on itself. When that happens, stop twisting, fold it in half and

allow it to twist up neatly. Tie a tight knot about 2" from the end, then trim the

very end off.

Step 6: Prepare your fall

You won't need this until much later, but it'll make your life easier if you prepare

it now. Choose the strongest, thickest strand you have and cut it to about half

the finished length of your whip. If you're not sure, leave it long: it's easy to trim it

down later.

Use a bevelling tool (I made mine following Bernie46's design on youtube

(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdTc5eWH4Rk)) or a sharp craft knife toround off the corners of the fall, then grease it well and cut a lengthwise slit

about 1/2" long, about 1/4" from the end.

Step 7: Getting ready for the belly

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Gather your belly strands, find the middle and wrap them around your finger.

Use one strand to tie two half hitches around the strands on that side of yourfinger (the photo should make more sense than that explanation), then remove

the strands from your finger and start a 4-strand round plait for about 1 1/2". As

a reminder, a 4-strand plait is under 1, over 1.

Step 8: Plaiting...

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Follow the pictures closely. Untie the two half-hitches and tidy up that end of

your plait, then lay your strands out as shown in the photo above. You arestarting an 8-strand plait around the handle of your core. Cross two strands

from each side cross at the front, then lay the handle underneath them and start

plaiting in an under 2, over 2 pattern. Once you have done a full pass with every

strand, pause to pull everything firm and make sure it's all laying right. Extra

care at this point can save you headaches later on. When you're happy,

continue plaiting, under 2, over 2.

Plaiting tip: as the saying goes pull tight, plait loose. That means that you only

need to tighten a strand before you plait it. As you plait, watch out for spiralling:

most people have one hand stronger than the other, and if you don't pay

attention, you'll find your plaiting seams going in a spiral rather than a straight

line. This is a bad habit to get into, and can affect the way your finished whip

flows when you crack it.

Step 9: Dropping belly strands

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When you're about 1/3 of the way up (or down?) your belly plait, it's time to drop

some strands. Find your two shortest strands, and when they get to the "top" of

each hand, just ignore them and change to a six plait (under 2, over 1 on one

side, and under 1, over 2 on the other side).

When you're about 2/3 of the way, drop two more strands in the same way and

change to under 1, over 1.

When you're getting towards the end of your core, you may find that the

lead/BBs are starting to bunch up. Simply untie the knot and allow them to

spread out neatly, thenget a needle and thread, sew the end of the core up

permanently, and keep plaiting.

About 1" after the end of the core, sew securely around all four remaining

strands and stop plaiting. Cut one strand off every 1/2", then sew around the

strands to form a tapered bundle.

Step 10: Roll the belly

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Your belly is almost done, but the plaiting probably looks a bit rough and lumpy.

Find a flat solid surface (I use a large offcut of wood) and a flat solid object likea hardcover book or a piece of wooden plank, and roll the belly firmly between

the two. This should make the plaiting lay flatter and form a better base for a

neat overlay.

Step 11: Bolster and reinforce the handle transition

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In a traditional leather whip, the transition from the handle to the whip is

reinforced by binding with sinew, and the bolster is a piece of thin leather

wrapped between the belly and the overlay. In this whip, good quality fabric tapeserves the same purpose (the joy of modern materials). Starting at the end of

the handle, wrap firmly over the belly, working towards the thong (the flexible

part of the whip) and overlap about 50% of each wrap. Stop when you're about

1" past the handle. Repeat this three times, each time going about 1 1/2" further.

I wrap in the opposite direction each time, but that's more out of habit than for

any good reason.

Step 12: The overlay

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This is the part that everyone will see, so it pays to take extra care. This is

difficult to explain, so please look at the pictures.

Find your overlay strands and lay them out in pairs, matched by length. Put anelastic band around the end of your handle, about 3" from the end. Pass the end

of one pair of strands under the elastic band; repeat with the second pair, but

put them either side of the first pair; put the third pair either side of the second

pair, etc. If you have 8 pairs, they should be in the following order: 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Once they're neatly in order under the elastic band, use a piece of the paracord

core that you set aside earlier to secure the strands tightly to the whip. I use a

common whipping and a constrictor knot, but as long as they're not going to

come off, it doesn't matter how they're tied.

Find your first two strands and use them as a guide to separate your strands

into two groups, left hand and right hand. Starting from the middle, mentallyname them L1 to L8 and R1 to R8. The names refer to the positions, not the

individual strands! Pass L1 to your right hand over R1 and R1 to your left hand;

pass R2 over all to your left hand and L2 over all to your right; pass R3 over all

to your left hand and L3 over all to your right; pass R4 over all to your left hand

and L4 over all to your right. Ensure that all strands are sitting neatly.

Starting with L8, pass it around the back of the plait, under R8-R5, over R4-R1

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and back to your left hand; pass R8 around the back, under L8-L5, over L4-L1

and back to your right hand. Continue with this pattern, passing each strand

around the back, under the first half of the strands in your opposite hand, over

the second half of the strands in your opposite hand, then back to the hand it

started in.

Step 13: Continuing the overlay and dropping strands

Continue plaiting for about 1/5 the length of the whip, then drop two strands.

You drop strands by separating out the shortest two strands and when they

reach positions L4 and R4, lay them alongside the belly and plait over them. As

you will then have two strands fewer than before, change your plaiting pattern to

under 4, over 3 and continue plaiting. Once you have plaited over about 2" of

the dropped strands, cut them off at different lengths and continue plaiting.

Note:Before cutting, make sure you are about to cut the correct strands!

About 1/5 of the length later, drop another two strands, following the same

procedure and change to under 3, over three.

Repeat 1/5 of the length later, change to under 3, over 2.

And again 1/5 of the length later, change to under 2, over 2.

And again 1/5 of the length later, change to under 2, over 1. And continue with

that until your whip is the desired length, or you've almost run out of strands to

plait. Make sure you have at least 6" left.

Step 14: Attach the fall

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Find your fall. It's probably buried under all of the offcuts and unused scraps in

the corner of your workspace.

Poke all 6 remaining strands through the slit in the end of the fall, slide it a short

way down the whip, and arrange your strands neatly so that you can see whatyou're working with.

Take the lowest strand and tie a half-hitch around the whole bundle of strands,

whip and fall. Pull it firm, but not tight - you really don't want to snap it now. Take

the matching strand on the other side and repeat. Don't forget to include the first

strand you tied in the bundle.

Repeat, alternating sides, for the other 4 strands, then take the last strand you

tied and pass it back down through the slit in the fall. Pull each strand tight, but

don't snap them, then pull on the fall so that it slides up and locks the last strand

off.

Trim off all of the strands so they're about 1/4" long. Make sure you don't

accidentally cut off the fall - that really makes life difficult.

Step 15: Roll the whip

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Roll the whip between two hard surfaces, just like you did with the belly. It

should be starting to look pretty good by now.

Step 16: Attach your cracker

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Open a loop in the "non-fluffy" end of your cracker and poke the end of the fall

through the loop.

Tie a half-hitch around the end of the fall with the cracker.

Pull it all tight.

You now have a usable whip, which you should be able to crack. Give it a try.

The rest of this instructable just makes it look a bit neater. You can stop here if

you want to.

Step 17: Turks Head Base

Cut a strip of thick leather or rubber about 1/4" and long enough to go around

the handle of your whip. Use carpet tacks to nail it around the handle, covering

the whipping that holds the strands on.

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We have a be nicecomment policy.

Please be positive and constructive. I Made it! Add Images Make Comment

Step 18: Turks Head

Many people find this the trickiest part of the whip, mainly because there's a bit

of trial and error involved in working out what sort of turks head to tie. I've used

a 5 part, 6 bight turks head with two passes.

If you don't know much about turks heads, the International Guild of Knot Tyers

has a wonderful gridmaker (http://www.igkt.net/beginners/gridmaker.php) that

generates patterns for you to follow.

To use it, you need to understand some basic terminology:

"Parts" are the number of times the strand has to go around the pattern tofollow it once around;"Bights" are the number of "loops" at the top and bottom of the knot;"Passes" are the number of times you follow the pattern around completely.

To use the gridmaker, enter the number of parts and bights you want, then click

"Generate Turks Head". Print the pattern out, tape it around something like a

toilet roll and poke pins or toothpicks into the bights at the top and bottom. Use

the pins as a guide to carefully follow the pattern with a strand of leather. It

might take you a few goes to work out the right size for your whip, but it's a

simple way to tie a neat turks head.

Once it's tied, sl ide it off your toilet roll and onto your whip, then carefully and

patiently use something pointy to tighten it around the leather strip you nailed

on. The trick to making this look good is to work slowly and make sure thatevery part lies flat and in the correct place before moving on. It usually takes me

at least two passes to get it neat enough to make me happy, and tight enough to

stay in place.

Once it's tight, trim the ends, sit back and admire your work - or go outside and

practice cracking it.

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SparkySolar (/member/SparkySolar/)

Thank you for this nice Instructable. I like it

Rima

SparkySolar (/member/SparkySolar/)

Thank you for this nice Instructable. I like it

Rima

PowellMade (/member/PowellMade/)

Wow what skill! that whip is amazing! Its not hard to see you have made a

few of these babies! One day I hope to make one of these. Could you make a

whip from suede? Well done!!

nic6027 (/member/nic6027/)(author) PowellMade

I'm glad you like it.

Technically, I can't see any

reason not to make a whip from

suede, but I doubt that suede

lace would be strong enough to

plait tightly enough. It might work

better to make the belly from

leather or paracord, to give it

strength, and then try the overlay

in suede. If you try it, I'd be

interested to see the result.

FantumHawk (/member/FantumHawk/)

good instruct able. I got to give this one a try for sure....I won't put a popper

on it though. It sounds better without it...

nic6027 (/member/nic6027/)(author) FantumHawk

I tend to prefer softer cracks than

loud ones, so I agree on one

level, but it's also worth trying

different materials and

thicknesses for your crackers: thin

kevlar crackers sound totally

different from crackers made from

a whole strand of paracord or VB

cord (the paracord/VB cord

cracker sounds far softer). Using

a cracker also means that your

fall lasts for longer.

gralan (/member/gralan/)

Thanks for the instructable. I haven't cracked a bullwhip in decades, but out

on the farm it was something us boys "had" to do... We were using an 8footer. Woo hoo!

hegure_ryu (/member/hegure_ryu/)

Good job on this! It looks really good. I might have to try it.


f 21 23/11/2014 15:52


20/21

1 month ago Reply (C3IMURXI1B63L92)

(/member/hegure_ryu/)

(/member/nic6027/)

1 month ago Reply (CPGFEDMI1B65JNK)

(/member/seamster/)

1 month ago Reply (CVXTC0VI1941BWC)

(/member/nic6027/)

1 month ago Reply (CYK4CV2I169SI41)

(/member/remington700links/)

1 month ago Reply (CNVAC2YI1942XD0)

(/member/nic6027/)

1 month ago Reply (CK0FCRQI169SI3Y)

I found these old woven

leather belts are a great

source of cheap leather

when you can find them at

yard sales and the like.

Just have to be able to get

the real leather and not

the fake stuff. Just hope

projects like these don't

get too popular, so my

leather source doesn't get

even harder to find.I have also seen some

whips done in the flat

nylon cord used in

weaving western belts too.

Cheaper, and lets you

practice your platting, but

not as nice looking.

nic6027 (/member/nic6027/)(author) hegure_ryu

Thanks! If you try it, please let

me know if there's anything that

needs a better explanation :)

Finding the right belts, of good

leather, is a must for this to work.

Nylon/Paracord is definitely

another option, and has several

advantages (it's washable!), but

leather just feels nicer.

seamster (/member/seamster/)

Wow! This impressive work!

I love that it's made out of used belts too. Great project!

nic6027 (/member/nic6027/)(author) seamster

Thanks :) The soap really does

make it easier to handle.

remington700links (/member/remington700links/)

Great job.But looks very complicated, to me.

love to make a whip,looks better

instruction than my whip making book.

nic6027 (/member/nic6027/)(author) remington700links

Thanks. It's not actually that hard

once you get started, you just

need patience with the plaiting.

I've found Ron Edwards' book

"How to make whips," really

helpful when I started.

caracoda (/member/caracoda/)

This is a very good tutorial, and thank you for the soap recipe!


f 21 23/11/2014 15:52


21/21

1 month ago Reply (CMEIF9VI169PAIA)

(/member/caracoda/)

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Date post:	01-Jun-2018
Category:	Documents
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Bullwhip From Upcycled Belts

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