FRUIT TREE PRUNINGElisa Clark

Horticulturist, CLT, CNP, Master GardenerFlutterby Gardens Landscaping

571-2170www.goflutterby.com

North End Organic Nursery389-4769

www.northendnursery.com

FRUIT TREE FORMS•Bush •Pyramid•Cordon, Single, double or triple•Half standard•Dwarf pyramid•Standard•Spindle bush •Fan•Palmette•Espalier•Stepover

PRUNING TOOLS

BASIC PRUNING TERMS

• TOPPING • SIDE LATERAL • CROSS OVER• PARALLEL BRANCHES• SPUR• GRAFT UNION • SUCKERS• DEAD OR BROKEN• LEADER• GROWTH BUD• BUD• DIRECTIONAL

PRUNING TECHNIQUES HARD VS LIGHT

Prune weak growth hard and strong growth light. Hard pruning lessens the amount of flower buds being served by tree and allows for better production from the remaining bugs.

BALANCEYounger wood

produces finer fruitApple & pear on 2 year woodSour cherry, peach & nectarine on previous yearPlum, sweet cherry & apricot on 2 year and older

FRUITING HABITHeavy crops produce

small unsatisfactory fruits / biennial bearing

Blossom thinning10 days after blossom pinch out 9 of every 10 blossoms

Fruit thinning

ROOT Best done on young trees in

winter. Lift, prune and replant. Large trees done over 2 year span

. Stake after pruning.

RENOVATION PRUNING CANKER - Generally affects apples. Heavily cankered

trees should be discarded. Cut tree below infected area where healthy tissue resumes. Disinfect tools.

CROWDED OR CROSSING - Touching branches lead to bark/insect damage. Overcrowding creates stagnant air, poor circulation.

BROKEN – Cut branches or exposed bark are susceptible to water penetration.

TRAINED FORMS - Reduce growth and thin congested spurs. Try to regain form, if not feasible, replace tree.

NEVER TAKE OFF MORE THAN ¼ OF TREE.

TYPES OF FRUIT TREES

oAPPLEoPEACHoPEARoQUINCEoPLUM oCHERRYoNECTARINEoAPRICOToMULBERRYoFIGSoPERSIMMON

APPLE TREEoSelf fertile.

oSpur bearers – fruit on 3 year wood or older.

oPrune in late winter or early spring.

o SPUR PRUNING - Shorten laterals to increase fruiting side shoots. Continual spur pruning eventually leads to congestion. Pushes production closer to main branches.

oSPUR THINNING – Pruning out spurs that have become congested or overcrowded.

oTIP PRUNING – Cut older shoots back to 1 or 2 buds. Remove shoots after 2 years of fruiting.

APPLE CONTINUED….

SUMMER PRUNING – Formally trained trees. Cordons, espalier and fan tree forms. Used to restrict growth and encourage fruiting bud formation.

AKA – The Lorette System -

Where all shoots, 6-9 inches are pruned to 2 inch length. Creating a woody base. Pruning is continued throughout summer on shoots stimulated from 1st round of pruning. Also used to discourage secondary growth.

PEA

CH

TR

EE

oFruit on shoots from previous year.

oLate winter or early spring. Silver leaf disease.

oRemove fruited growth and promote new shoots.

oPrune to growth bud, not flower bud.

oSelf fertile.

PEAR TREE Like warm, sheltered growth

areas.

Propagated by grafting.

Fruit on 2 year wood or older.

Late winter or early spring. Winter, spur thinning or large branch removal. Spring, blossom or fruit thinning.

Regular thinning to prevent overcrowding.

Self fertile.

QUINCE TREEoGrown as large bush

oFrequent suckers

oCan be shaped into fan or palmette

oFruits on spurs and tips of 1 year shoots

oSelf fertile

oPrune in winter

PLU

M T

REE

Click icon to add picture

oFruit at base of year old wood and along 2 year and older stems.

oProne to disease and infections like silver leaf disease and cankers.

oPrune at bud break. Dead wood in late summer or Autumn.

oUse care to not prune back too much young growth.

oPropagated by grafting.

SWEET/DUKE CHERRY TREE Fruit on older wood and

base of previous years growth.

Pruning in winter makes tree susceptible to silver leaf disease.

Prune for training at bud burst in spring for new trees and summer for established trees.

Prune out diseased, dying or dead wood immediately.

Remove shoots with narrow forks or V angles.

Fruit thinning rarely needed.

SOUR CHERRY TREE Easier to grow in colder

climates.

Fruits only on shoots from previous year.

Pruning in winter makes tree susceptible to silver leaf disease.

Prune at bud burst to train new tree or summer for established.

More cold tolerant.

NEC

TA

RIN

E

TR

EE

oFruit borne on shoots from previous year

oPrune in late winter to early spring

oBest done as buds are bursting

oRemove growth and encourage new shoots

oVulnerable to silver leaf disease

oPrune when in blossom to thin out fruit.

oSelf fertile.

APRICOT TREEoFruits on 2 year wood or older. oPrune as buds are bursting in spring.

oNever prune in winter , risk of infection is greatest.

oAre easily affected by late frost. Do not plant on warm, south facing walls.

oSparse crops will increase growth, control by pruning.

MU

LB

ER

RY

TR

EE

oPrune from early to mid winter

oTrees may bleed when pruned

oRemove dead wood in summer

oMaintain central leader

oSummer prune new shoots to 5 leaves to keep tree compact

oNeed cold winters and hot summers to fruit well

FIG TREEo Long, hot summer for good fruit production.

oGrown in bush form in Boise, with yearly dieback.

oThree stage fruiting – overwinter, spring and summer.

oPrune to encourage embryo figs in leaf axils to develop.

oPrune in early spring after frost danger has passed.

oPropagated from cuttings.

PER

SIM

MO

N

TR

EE

o Good fruit production requires cold winters and chilling period with long hot summer.

o Fruit on current seasons growth.

o Does not tolerate heavy pruning.

o Thin inner growth in winter to promote air circulation.

o Remove winter damage in summer.

o Remove weak branches and brittle wood.

o Remove weak crotches.

o Propagated from grafting.