LIBRARY! CURRENT SERIAL Rfi.ORD
^ JUN6-19^ ^1
U, S. DEPARTMENT OF /^CULIHI
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Home and Garden Bulletin 38 ^^^y\~ , Q.i^-uJL 'fC^ UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT jjoF AGRICULTURE
SEW/I NC3 IVIAOHIN This publication will help homemakers and their husbands select
the sewing machine best suited to their needs. Extension workers will also find it useful in answering questions.
The purchase of a sewing machine for home use is a lifetime investment. Machines of reputable manufacture are built to last for many years, with only minor replacement of inexpensive parts. The cleaning, oiling, and adjust- ing of machines are within the ability of any homemaker and are the major maintenance necessary for continued good service.
Today's choice of machines gives a wide range to fit the purchaser's needs and purse. It is often a bit confusing to make a decision. Your present needs may change as the family grows or the children leave to establish their own homes. No one machine is likely to have all the features you consider de- sirable, so a compromise is in order in selecting the machine that you con- sider best suited to your present and possible future needs.
Plan Ahead Part of your decision should be
made at home before looking at dif- ferent makes of machines.
The first point to settle is the kind of sewing for which you are buying the machine. Many homemakers use their machines only for occasional plain^ sewing, for patching, mending, or darning, or for the making of simple garments. For this work a straight- sewing machine is satisfactory. This type may be preferred by the woman whose chief interest is fine dressmaking and tailoring and who has little use for machine-made decorative effects.
The more veitsatile swing-needle or zigzag-type machines are designed to handle a wider range in stitch styles and such specialty sewing as decora- tive stitching and embroidery; the
NOTE: This is a revision of a publication prepared by a comittee of extension specialists: Ruth Knoch and Waldo Bell, West Virginia; Helen Shelby and A. V. Krewatch, Maryland; W. C. Krueger, New Jersey; and Alice Linn, Federal Extension Service, USDA. Ann Litch- field, New Jersey, greatly helped in the preparation of this revision.
making of place mats and napkins, dec- orative blouses and children's clothes; and seam finishing and button-holes. These machines, in part, do the jobs in- tended for the attachments that can be bought for the straight-sewing ma- chinesand which are so seldo^i used. Your decision here is whether the specialty job will be done often enough to warrant the added cost.
Choice of Machines
Another choice is between cabinet and portable machines. A cabinet with well-supported leaves and sturdy legs gives good sewing support and is ready for instant use. There are many cab- inets to choose from for any one ma- chine head. Since its main purpose is to house the machine, choose the cabinet for comfort, sturdiness, and convenience. A machine in a perma- nent cabinet or table is more conven- ient and time saving for anyone who does much sewing. The extra cost of a fancy cabinet may better be invested in useful furniture. However, choices in cabinets allow a selection that will fit in with any type of home furnishing.
The portable is the usual choice where space is limited, as in small homes and apartments, or where a ma- chine must often be moved from place to place. Some portables are fitted with an extension table for greater work surface; all can be set into a sturdy worktable flush with the top to give the same stability and work area as cabinet machines. Some portables are merely the regular, heavy sewing head sometimes inadequately wired and set into a cheap, heavy, and unwieldy car- rying case; but portables can be pur-
chased with lightweight construction and with base and carrying case de- signed for the machinesturdy and well finished. The choice between lightweight and regular-head portables depends partly on how much bulky sewing or mending of heavy f^ibrics will be done. Does the ispace between the bed and the arm of the machine allow space to handle bulky articles? If you need to move a portable ma- chine often, can you lift it comfort- ably from the floor to the table?
Personally Inspect
A personal inspection of a variety of machines will help you decide on the one best suited to your purpose. Visit your friends and neighbors, and the dealers, and check the features of one machine against another. You want to choose a machine that is easy to handle and operate, is readily adjusted to your varying sewing needs, and is easy to care for and keep in perfect running order.
You may have a choice between the long-shuttle machines and the round- bobbin types. The long-shuttle mech- anism is simple and direct, usually easier and quicker to clean and oil, but noisier and not designed for as /high- speed operation as the round-bobbin class. Unless especially balanced, these machines are not well adapted to elec- tric motors. The roimd-bobbin ma- chines are either oscillating or rotary. They are usually smoother in opera- tion and better balanced for higher speed.
The following points are offered as a guide in making your comparison.
Look for EASY TO USE features
Yes No 1. Is the upper tension setting shown by markings that are
easy to see? .
2. Is the upper thread tension released when the presser foot is raised?
3. Does the lamp throw light where you need it? ^-
4. Is the lamp placed so that it will not burn you during normal use of the machine, for instance, when raising the presser foot?
5. Is the stitch-length control^ale easy to read?
6. Are there adjustable lock positions for the forward and reverse .stitching control?
7. Will the machine stitch backwards? ^
8. Is there a quick release mechanism for darning and efnbroidery? ^-
9. Is there a footrest on the electric foot control?
Blank circles have been used to show the appropriate location of some of the important parts, because the design of the machines and the parts vary so greatly.
Lamp
Hinges
Knee Control
Blank circles have been used to show the appropriate location of some of the important parts, because the design of the machines and the parts vary so greatly.
Arm
Upper Tension Here
or Here
Cover Plate
Bobbin Winder
StitchLength Control
Try out the machines for GOOD OPERATION
1. Is the machine quiet and free from objectionable noise and vibration?
2. Does the machine run smoothly at all speeds?
3. Is the knee or foot control comfortable for y ou to use ?
4. Does the motor start smoothly, providing easy starting as well as slow running?
5. Is the machine easy for you to thread? ,
6. Is the bobbin easy to take out and put back ?
7. Is the bobbin easy for you to thread?
8. Try the machine on some of your own materials, both straight and curved seams. Is it easy to guide when stitching curved seams? .
9. Notice whether the material has a tendency to drift to right or left, whether one layer of material tends to creep over the other during sewing. Does the machine satisfy you in these respects?
10. Is the bobbin winder easy to use and does it fill the bobbin evenly?
Cheek on ADJUSTMENTS
1. Is the bottom tension conveniently located and easy to adjust?
2. Are the tension adjustments clearly explained in the instruction book?
3. Is the stitch-length control easy to set?
4. Can the feed dog be dropped?
5. Is the control easy to get to?
6. If the feed dog cannot be dropped, does the machine have a special cover plate for darning and em- broidery?
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Yes No
AU machines provide adjustment for upper and lower tensions.
Upper tensions are fitted with a thumb knob or lever and have markings that show the set- ting.
The lower tension is adjusted with a small screwdriver or a lever. The tension adjustments
, should be clearly explained in the instruction book that will be furnished with your machine.
Blank circles have been used to show the appropriate location of come of the important parts^ because the design of the machines and the parts vaiy so greatly
Feed Dog Drop
or Here or Here
Consider EASY TO CARE FOR factors
1. Are the cover plates easily remavable and all parts readily accessible for cleaning,piling, and greasing?
2. Is the light bulb easy to replace? ( ;
3. Is the machine easy to dust and wipe clean?
Inspect for LONG LIFE design
1. Is the wiring located where it will not be pinched, and is it protected against wear? ^_ .
2. Are adjustments provided for wear between moving parts?--.--. .-^ ^-_-
3. Is the wiring projected against oil drip? _- 4* Is the cabinet well constructed; are hinges sturdy, legs
well braced, and is the leaif well supported and level when opened?- - -
5. Are the service parts carried in stock? ^
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Yes No
Keep in Mind
Light Sewing machine lights help when
threading and using a machine. They do not provide enough illumination for regular sewing and should be supple- mented by a good local light such as a floor lamp. Often the kind of sewing machine lamp, its position, and the type of paint nish on the machine, combine to reflect suflicient light to pro- duce an objectionable glare. Frosted lamp bulbs, diffusing covers for the lamp, or a choice of paint finish, can help reduce this glare.
Paint Finish
Machines finished with a smooth, glossy surface are easiest to keep clean, but light reflections may prove annoy- ing. Some manufacturers recognize the effect of color on eyestrain and
finish their machines in green, brown, or tan. Others use a crackle surface to prevent glare, but this may reflect many points of light as disturbing as the glare from a gloss finish.
Secondhand Machines Considerations given to buying a
new machine also apply to secondhand or rebuilt machines. Knowing the dealer is reputable is even more im- portant, however, because the machine is not new. Many of the secondhand machines of the foot-treadle type can be motorized at a small cost. It is best not to motorize a machine if it vibrates when foot-treadled at high speeds.
/ I T\g;LSi^ Sewing
Most straight-sewing ?nachines can be fitted with attachments such as the
To have plenty of light when sewing use a floor lamp or other good light to supplement the direct light from the sewing machine lamp.
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study the designs that a machine can produce before buying it. De- signs that can be made on several different machines are shown here.
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one for buttonholes that shifts the cloth from side to side, creating a zigzag stitch. The zigzag sewing machine swings the needle bar from side to side, producing a stitch that can be used for a wide variety of effects. Most of these machines swing the needle to both sides of the center sewing line, while a few move only to the right or to the left. A greater variety of decorative stitches is possible when the needle swings to both right and left. Skill in operation is required to develop a uniform pat- tern or design with the controls oper- ated by hand. Many machines are built to use templates which automat- ically produce distinctive patterns. Al- though these machines are considered automatic, it requires a complete knowledge of the machine to utilize its varied operations. When purchasing a zigzag machine, test it for a good
straight stitch and the ease for switch- ing from straight to zigzag stitching.
Swing needle machines vary gratly in their versatility. Be sure that the machine you select can produce the de- signs you want.
Types of Motor Controls There are two types of motor con-
trols used with sewing machinesthe step control and the carbon control. The step control changes the speed in a series of steps or jumps, usually 5 to 8 from slow speed to fast speed. With some machines the first step of this type of control does not provide the slow speed required at times in sew- ing operations. The carbon control increases the speed from slow to fast smoothly and uniformly, resulting in easier control of speed, especially when starting and at very slow speeds.
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Service Agreements and Certfi- period also places the responsibility on cates of Guarantee tiie seller to correct any defect in ad-
Know your dealer. Has he a repu- J^stment or parts other than normal tation for giving good service? Most ^^^ * ^^ charge to the buyer, dealers who sell sewing machines offer ; ^hese agreements s}u)uU be in wrU- some form of guarantee and free serv- ^^ ^^ signed by an agent who has ice agreement. The guarantee pro- ^^i^f^^^ory credentials. Verbal agree- tects the buyer against the possibility of "^ents are unsatisfactory because they inferior or defective parts, or concealed ^^Y he impossible to prove or because damage, for varying periods of time the exact sense of such agreements de- after purchase. The free service pends upon mei^ory.
Other Publications on Sewing Machines and Sewing These publications are available from the United States Department of Agri-
culture, Washington 25, D.C. Pattern Alteration. Farmers'Bui. 1968. Fittng^Dresses. Fanners'Bui. 1964. Sewing Machines: Cleaning and Adjusting. Farmers' Bui. 1944. ABC's of Mending. Farmers'Bui. 1925. Mending Men's Suits, Misc. JPub. 482. Coat Making at Hpme. Farmers'Bui. 1894. How To Tailor a Woman's Suit. Home and Garden Bui. 20. Fitting Coats and Suits. Home and Garden Bui. 11. Simplified Clothing Construction. Home and Garden Bui. 59.
Film Strips Information about the purchase of these film strips can be obtained by writing
to the Office of Information, United States Department of Agriculture, Wash- ington 25, D.C. These are not available for loan.
Making a Girl's Dress. 65 frames. No. 694. Fitting Dresses. Color, 31 frames. No.C-13.
Motion Picture Information about the availability of this motion picture can be obtained
either from your State college or from the Motion Picture Service, Office of Information, United States Department of Agricutre, Washington 25, D.C.
Truly Yoursthe Dress That Fits. 16mm, color, sound, 18 minutes.
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Reminders 1. Don't be afraid to ask questions about the things you want to know.
2. Take time to sllect the make and model of machine to fit your needs before choosing the cabinet.
3. Select a cabinet for comfortable sewing and utility and not for decorative features alone.
4. Sew long enough to satisfy yourself as to what the machine will do. You are likely to have it a long time.
5. Operate the machine in order to determine that the knee control is not too far to the right and the needle position is not too far to the left for you to sit comfortably.
6. Upon delivery, be sure your machine sews as well as the one demon- strated. Service adjustments are usually made only before the free service or guarantee period runs out.
7. Learn to use and operate your machine. Also learn to make the adjustments, such as tension, stitch length, and presser foot con- trol. Oil and grease it according to the manufacturer's instruc- tions. See Farmers Bulletin 1944, mentioned p. 11.
Revised April 1960
For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Qovemment Printing Office Washington 25, D.C. - Price 10 cents
U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1960 O532090
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