B.Y.O.C.overdrive kit

build instructions

page 2 - 3 ...............................................Parts Checklistpage 4 - 8................................................Modificationspage 9 - 12..............................................Populating the Circuit Boardpages 13 - 14..........................................Assemblypage 15 - 16............................................Wiringpage 17 - 18............................................Installing the LEDpage 19...................................................Finishing Up

Parts ChecklistResistors: (resistors may be 1% metal film which have a light blue body or 5%carbonfilm with a light brown body)1 100ohm (brown/black/black/black/brown or brown/black/brown/gold)1 220 ohm (red/red/black/black/brown or red/red/brown/gold)1 470ohm (yello/purple/black/black/brown or yellow/purple/brown/gold)4 1k (brown/black/black/brown/brown or brown/black/red/gold)1 1.5k (brown/green/black/brown/brown or brown/green/red/gold)1 2.7k (red/purple/black/brown/brown or red/purple/red/gold)2 4.7k (yellow/purple/black/brown or yellow/purple/red/gold)7 10k (brown/black/black/red/brown or brown/black/orange/gold)1 20k (red/black/black/red/brown or red/black/orange/gold)1 51k (green/brown/black/red/brown or green/brown/orange/gold)1 100k (brown/black/black/orange/brown or brown/black/yellow/gold)2 510k or 511k (green/brown/brown/orange/brown or green/brown/yellow/gold)1 620k (blue/red/black/orange/brown or blue/red/yellow/gold)1 4.7M (yellow/purple/green/gold)

Pots:1 25kB pot (tone)1 100kB pot (level)1 500kA pot (drive)

Capacitors:1 51pf ceramic disc (small round orange)1 .022uf film(223)1 .047uf film(473)2 .1uf film (104)2 .15uf tantalum (small yellow dipped)1 .22uf film (224)2 .22uf tantalum (small yellow dipped)2 1NP NON-polarized electrolytic2 1uf film (105 larger box shaped caps)1 10uf aluminum electrolytic1 47uf aluminum electrolytic1 100uf aluminum electrolytic

Transistors:2 MPSA18

Diodes:3 1N914 or 1N4148(small orange with black stripe)3 1N4001 (large black with silver stripe)3 small red LED's

IC's:1 JRC4558D1 RC4558P1 8 pin socket

Hardware:3 self adheasive nylon standoffs3 knobs1 heavy duty battery snap1 Red T 1 3/4 (5mm)LED1 3PDT footswitch1 1/4 mono jack1 1/4 stereo jack1 AC adaptor jack1 125b size enclosure1 Overdrive PCBHook-up wire

Approx. 30 snap off sockets

Modifications:We'll start with an explanation of what some of the mods are and how to do them so thatyou'll get a better idea of how you want to build your overdrive. However, I would personallysuggest building the pedal stock and then going from there. Use the snap off sockets if youplan on experimenting a lot, but keep in mind that the larger diodes and the 1uf film capacitorswill not fit in those sockets.

1. Changing the resistors:

a. 4.7k - This is the maximum distortion resistor. Replace it with either the 2.7k or the 1.5kfor more distortion. The pedal may get noisier and feedback a little bit if you go too low.b. 51k - This is the minimum distortion resistor. Replace it with the 20k toincrease thepedals ability to clean up.c. 510k - Input impedence resistor. A higher input impedence is better for guitar FX.Replace it with the 620k. You can go even higher if you want. Try a 1M.d. 10k & 100ohm These are the two resistors that seperate the TS808 from the TS9.Generally, TS808 specs are more desired and they are what will will consider stock for thisbuild, but if you want 9series specs, here you go. Replace the 10k with 100k and replace the100ohm with 470ohm.

2. Changing the Capacitors:

a. Before you start, notice the 100uf cap highlighted in red. The 1uf film caps are physicallylarger than the 1NP electrolytics, so if you leave the 100uf cap sticking up out of the PCB justa little bit when you solder it, this will allow you to bend it out of the way enough to fit the 1uffilm caps.b. Replacing the 1NP electrolytics with the 1uf film caps is done for improved audio fidelity.c. Replacing the .22uf tantalum caps with .15uf is done to shift the frequency response of thetone knob into a more guitar friendly part of the spectrum.d. Replacing hte .047uf film cap with a larger value cap will increase bass response andreduce with midrange hump of the frequency curve. Use either the .1uf or .22uf film caps.

3. Clipping:The clipping section is probably where you will do most of your experimenting. There are alot of different things you can do here. Slight modifications to the clipping section are what alot of boutique builders claim make their overdrive different from anyone elses. We're justgoing to cover some of the basics here, but there are literally thousands of differentcombinations to try.

Just a note about using LED's as clipping diodes. LED's are dioded. L.E.D. stands for lightemitting diode. It has two ends just like a regular diode: the cathode and the anode.

a. Symmetrical clipping:

Symmetrical clipping will reqire you to jumper one of the larger diode slots and use 2 of thesame types of dioded. Stock TS808 specs would use 2 of the 1N914 diodes. People will oftendiscribe this type of clipping as sounding more compressed . Another very popularsymmetrical clipping mod is to use two red LED's. People often describe this clipping style asbeing punchy or cruncy or sometimes say it makes the pedal sound more marshall-like .

b. Asymmetrical clipping:

Asymmetrical clipping means that on one side you have one diode facing one direction and on

the other side, you have a different type of diode or diodes in series facing the oppositedirection. Guitar players seem to prefer asymmetrical clipping over symetrical clipping.Asymmetrical clipping is usually described as sounding more open, less compressed, and moretube like than symmetrical clipping. This is were you can really get creative. Is pretty goodcombination is 1 1N914 diode on one side and 2 1N4001 diodes in series on the other side.The PCB was designed for this combination, so it also fits nicely.

4. Using a different OpAmpOperational amplifier (OpAmp), Integrated circuit (IC), and chip are some of the names givento this component. The kit comes with an extra op amp to try out. It's kind of like changingtubes in your amp. Just pull the old one out of the socket and plug the new one into thesocket. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT PUT THESE IN BACKWARDS. If you do you willfry the chip. You can use just about any type of DIP 8 dual op amp you can find. Don't beafraid to experiment here either. They can even be JFET or MOSFET op amps. As long asthe chip in question is a physical match, just go ahead and plug it in and see how it sounds....itwon't hurt anything.

This is an exampl of a DIP8 package IC and DIP8 socket.

5. Running at 18VDCThe concept is simple. Just use a higher voltage power supply. The higher the voltage themore headroom you will have. This is a good thing if you like to use your overdrive as moreof a boost than a distortion. You don't need to do anything special. Just make sure that thepower supply you are using is DC and negative tip. All of the capacitors are rated for at least25v, so you can use anything between 9 -18VDC safely.

Populating the Circuit Board (stock TS808 specs)

Step 1: Install the diodes for ts808 specs. Only add two of the 1N914's (the small orangeglass with black stripe) as shown in the diagram below. One 1N914 goes in the small diodeslot. The other goes in a large diode slot. Be sure to orient the diodes so that the striped endmatches up with the striped end on the PCB layout. Jumper the open diode slot with a pieceof leftover clipping from the leads one of the diodes.

Step 2: Add all of the resistors. These are not polarized and can go in any direction. Colorcodes are in the parts checklist. Take your time...as always...but especially here. Whenpeople make cold joints, it's usually on this step. Socket any of the resistor values you'd liketo experiment.

Step 3: Add the 8 pin IC socket. Match up the u shaped cut out on the socket with the ushape on the layout. Do not install the IC into the socket yet.

Step 4: Add the ceramic disc cap and the tantalum caps. The ceramic disc cap is notpolarized and can go in any direction. The tantalum caps are polarized. The longer lead willgo in the square solder pad. If your tantalum caps don't have a positive lead that is longer thanthe negative lead, it will have a + symbol printed on the cap is self which denotes thepositive side.

Step 5: Add the transistors. Be sure to match them up with the shape printed on the PCBpayout.

Step 6: Add the film caps. These are not polarized and can go in either direction. The.047uf cap is a good one to socket for experimentation..

Step 7: Add the aluminum electrolytic capacitors. These are polarized. The positve end willhave the longer of the two leads and go into the square solder pad. The negative end of thecap will have the shorter or the two leads and will have a stripe going down the side of the

capacitor body. The negative lead goes in the round solder pad. The 1NP aluminumelectrolytic caps are not polarized. the NP stands for non-polarized. So these can go in either

direction dispite the fact that there is a + symbol and square solder pad to one side of thecomponent space.

Assembly

1. Install the jacks first. If you are looking down inside the enclosure, the mono jack goes onthe right side and the stereo jack goes on the left. Place the washer on the outside of theenclosure. Use a 1/2" wrench to tighten.2. Install the AC adaptor jack. The bolt goes on the inside. Use a 3/4" or 14mm wrench totighten.

This is a disconnect ac adaptor jack. That means that when you have a battery connectedand you plug in the adaptor, it will disconnect the battery. That is why there are 2 positiveterminals. They are both connected when there is no plug in the jack, but when the plug isinserted only one of the terminals (the uppermost terminal in the back view ) is connected tothe sleeve of the adaptor. The advantage of this is that you can leave batteries in your pedalsas a back up power source if you are a working musician and they will stay fresh even whenyou have the input jack plugged in as long as you keep the adaptor plugged in.

3. Install the potentiometers so that the solder lugs are pointing down towards the footswitchside of the enclosure. Use a 10mm wrench to tighten but only snug. Do not over tighten thepots.4. Install the footswitch. The first bolt and metal washer go inside. The plastic washer andsecond bolt go on the outside. It does not matter which side you designate as the "leadingedge" of the footswitch as long as you orientate it so that the flat sides of the solder lugs arealigned in horizontal rows, not vertical columns. Use a 14mm wrench to tighten.

Wiring

Step1: Wire the pots to the PCB. The PCB eyelets are all double sided, so you can threadthe wires in from the bottom side and solder on the top. But be careful to make sure that youare matching up the correct solder eyelet with the correct pot lug.

Lets take the Tone knob for example. The corresponding solder eyelets for the Tone pot allstart with the letter T . T1, T2, and T3. T1 gets connected to lug 1 of the tone pot. T2 getsconnected to lug 2 of the tone pot. And T3 gets connected to lug 3 of the tone pot.

Then we have the Volume knob. All the corresponding solder eyelets for the Volume potstart with the letter V . V1, V2, and V3. V1 gets connected to lug 1 of the Volume pot.Ect, ect, ect.....

Step 2. Now wire up the rest of the pedal following the diagram below. The labelling on thesolder eyelets should make it fairly intuitive, Note that the view in the wiring diagram showsthe pots with their back facing you as if you were looking down inside the pedal enclosure.

Installing the LED & mounting the PCB

Insert the LED into the UNDERSIDE of the PCB, but DO NOT SOLDER IT. Make surethe longer lead goes in the round hole and the shorter lead goes in the square hole. No, this is

not a typo. Yes, this is contradictory to the way most other componets go in the circuitboard.

The positive end will have the longer lead just like the other components, but this time it goesin the round solder pad. The negative lead will have the shorter lead, but this time it will go inthe square solder pad. Notice that the negative side is flat. On diodes the negative side iscalled the cathode and the positive side the annode.

1. Insert the LED into its slot on the underside or solder side of the circuit board,but DONOT SOLDER it yet.2. Once you have the LED in place, bend the leads a little bit so that it will not fall out whenyou turn the PCB over.

3. Install the nylon circuit board standoffs into the mounting holes.4. Remove the paper backings on the standoff to expose the self-adhesive tape.5. Insert the LED bulb into the LED hole in the enclosure by guiding it in with the excessleads sticking out of the top of the PCB..6. Secure the Standoffs to the back of the potentiometers.7. Your LED should still be free to move up and down slightly. You probably do not wantyour LED sticking all the way out of the hole. So pull up on the LED legs till you have itproperly positioned and then solder.8. Clip off the excess LED leg wire..

Finishing Touches

1. Install the IC. You must line up the U-Shapes!!!! Some IC's won't have a U-shape. Ifthey don't then they will have a small dot in one corner. This dot represents pin #1. The doton the IC should be on the same side as the U-shape of the socket. IF YOUR IC HAS BOTHA U-SHAPED NOTCH AND A DOT ALWAYS USE THE U-SHAPED NOTCH TOORIENT THE IC.

2. Install the base of the enclosure with the 4 screws that came with your kit.

3. Add the rubber bumper feet...unless you're a velcro person.

If you've got any problems that you can't figure out yourself, visit

www.board.buildyourownclone.com

for technical support.