Strategic Fashion Business Management

Quincy I. CarterStrategic Fashion Business Management

University of Westminster MA Fashion Business Management

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Strategic Fashion Business Management

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

Introduction…………………………………………...……………………3

Objectives…………………………………………………………………...4

Sub Objective I: To analyze the value chain of CAD and the Dandy and the

key differences between the United Kingdom locations and the New York

location…………………………………………………………………4

Sub Objective II: Compare and Contrast the customer service business model

and the Quality of work of American and European based stores that sale men’s

bespoke suits and CAD and the Dandy……………………………………9

Sub Objective III: Evaluate the customer service design of CAD and the

Dandy to that of the customer service designs of custom bespoke shops such as

“King and Allen” and “A suit that Fits”………………………………...11

Sub Objective IV: Analyze the future of CAD and the Dandy and how they

may change the face of custom made bespoke men’s suits and change the fashion

industry……………………………………………………………….13

References…………………………………………………………………15

Project Proposal…………………………………………………………..17

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Strategic Fashion Business Management

Introduction:When looking at various retailers and Fashion companies one may find that

various aspects are imperative to have, in order for a company to be successful. Not only do customers find these various aspects to be imperative to a successful business, but also this is a factor that determines whether or not they are willing to consistently invest into a company that has the goods and services they are looking for. For example, some things that the customer may find important are E-Commerce, Gifts and Rewards, Customer Service, Retailer/Customer Relationship, and even various delivery options just to name a few. However, one thing that sticks out to be of importance is the aspect of Customer Service. Customer Service is a major asset at any company and can be the determining factor on whether or not customers return to the retailer. Although different companies have different ways of defining what they consider Customer Service it is defined a certain way by various dictionaries. Oxford Dictionary defines Customer service as the assistance and advice provided by a company to those people who buy or use its products or services. On the other hand, the Business Dictionary defines it as, all interactions between a customer and product provider at the time of sale, and thereafter. Customer Service adds value to a product and builds enduring relationships.

One company that stands out, not only for their designs and riveting take on men’s suits but also their excellent customer service is a London based company CAD and the Dandy. CAD and the Dandy have made exciting changes when it comes to custom-made men’s suits. The company, which has its main locations in London has expanded and also has a location in New York City. The company has offered their customers an exceeding amount of options when it comes to their suits. Once a customer goes on to the site they are allowed to create a suit, two or three pieces, vest, pants, morning coats, and a wide array of other products. Once the consumer has created the product they can schedule an appointment to actually go to a location for a fitting session which makes the service they offer outstanding and should make a plethora of other retailers that do the same thing want to step up to their level so that more customers can be satisfied with the service.

In this research I will attempt to do a comparative analysis of a customer service business model developed by CAD and the Dandy, compared to main stream business players in the bespoke men’s suit business and other custom made bespoke suit retailers.

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Sub Objective I: An analysis of the value chain of CAD and the Dandy and the key differences between the United Kingdom locations and the New York location.

The Value Chain is something that has proven itself to be a great resource for all types of businesses. CAD and the Dandy’s Value Chain however is completely different from that of the Manufacturing Value Chain because their suits are custom made. To begin with, Finance and Planning, Process Development and purchasing all play a different roll in CAD and the Dandy’s Value Chain. In addition, the product design and supply are left up to the actual consumers of the garments. Moreover, thanks to locations there are two different types of value chains from the London locations and the New York. Consequently showing that CAD and the Dandy’s value chain proves to be an effective source yet proves to enhance the value of the company.

As previously stated, in point one some aspects such as Finance and Planning, Process Development, and purchasing play a different roll than it does for the manufacturing value chain. In this particular form of the Value Chain Finance and Planning are left up to the customer, the consumer literally decide what fabrics they want and that determines the cost of the suit and its other items that may come with it. The consumer also plans the details of the garment that they are purchasing making them the sole creators of what they want. Unlike other companies and businesses these types of things are usually left up to the designers of the various brands they work for. However, CAD and the Dandy allow the customers to be the designers of the products that they want, down to the fit of the garment.

(http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/design/suits)

The second point is that product design and supply chain of the garment are left up to the consumers and what it is that they want. As shown above from CAD and the Dandy’s website (http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/design/suits) customers choose what item they wish to create once they have chosen the item they are taken a screen that they can choose the fabric of the suit or whatever product they are creating. The fabrics that are on the list consist of Birdseye, checks, herringbone, light tweeds, pinstripe, plains, tweeds and velvets (http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/design/suits/2-piece-suit/style/31). Once the fabric has been selected the client is then sent to another page to select the lining of the garment in which they are also given a variety of options

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(http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/design/suits/2-piece-suit/style/31/18397). After the client has selected the lining for the garment they are then sent to the creation page for the jacket. With a wide array of options for various styles of the jacket the client can choose jacket style, lapel type and construction of the jacket just to name a few of the perks the company offers (http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/design/suits/2-piece-suit/style/31/18397/9386). After the customer has created their jacket they can then go on to create the pants for the suit. Just like the process for the jacket the client must also create the pants piece by piece with every detail that they see fit for the final product (http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/design/suits/2-piece-suit/style/trouser/31/18397/9386) Finally the customer finishes off with booking an appointment to get their measurements taken to ensure that the garment fits the way that they desire (http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/design/suits/2-piece-suit/style/intro/31/18397/9386/0)

(http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/design/suits/2-piece-suit/style/31)

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(http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/design/suits/2-piece-suit/style/31/18651)

(http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/design/suits/2-piece-suit/style/31/18651/9450)

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(http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/design/suits/2-piece-suit/style/trouser/31/18651/9450)

(http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/design/suits/2-piece-suit/style/intro/31/18651/9450/0)

The final point is that the value chain in London differs from that of the New York location. According to an article at (http://www.semperey.com/london-the-spiritual-home-of-bespoke-tailoring/) titled “London: The Spiritual home of Bespoke tailoring. In this article it is stated that weavers and cloth merchants date back to 1297 which at the same time Oxford Dictionary makes the first reference to the word “tailor”, this

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going to show that London has always been a spiritual home for tailoring and custom made garments. As opposed to the sister location in New York, American was not discovered until 1492 which means that London would be the spiritual home of tailoring then bringing and teaching individuals in the new found land of American the trade of tailoring.

This is showing that the Value chain of CAD and the Dandy differs from any normal value chain because most things are left up to the customers and with the specifications they want in a suit that they design. As specified earlier, things such as Finance Planning, Process Development and purchasing all play a different role then that of a normal Value Chain. Followed by the fact that the design and supply of the garment are solely left up to the client so they choose what it is that they want. Finally providing information on the actual process one goes through to create a suit at CAD and the Dandy. While still maintaining a positive Value chain, CAD and the Dandy has also managed to prove that London is and will always be the spiritual home to tailoring. By bringing it to America to teach people this craft it is now worldwide technique and highly learned.

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Sub Objective II: A Compare and Contrast of the customer service business model and the Quality of work of American and UK based stores that sale men’s bespoke suits and CAD and the Dandy.

In this section we will compare and contrast the differences in American based retailers that sale men’s suits, and how they differ from UK brands of suits. Initially, American based stores such as Macy’s, JC Penney, and Lord and Taylor just to name a few are retailers that have flawed customer services models, and constantly leave customer looking for better quality of goods. Furthermore, in the UK places such as Slater’s, TK Maxx, and Marks & Spencer’s sale men’s suits but do not offer the quality of work that CAD and the Dandy offers. Additionally, with both American and UK based retailers selling men’s suits; customers are left to question the quality of the garments and why it is very faulty. With this being a problem it requires individuals to continuously purchase suits from various retailers with a poor level of craftsmanship always looking for the next best thing.

With the work from Macy’s, JC Penney, and Lord and Taylor being manufactured in China mainly this creates a conflict with the way that retailers take care of their customers. Most store policies are clear as day in what they can do for damaged good and other services they offer. However, when goods are in the hands of the customers then any damage done is solely there own. If a customer were to go into an American based retailer such as Macy’s, JC Penney’s and/or Lord and Taylor they would be told that there is no refunds but rather in store credit. Once a customer goes on line to inquire about this matter they are given this message…“We want you to be completely satisfied with your purchase but understand that sometimes an item needs to be returned or exchanged. No worries!  Returns and exchanges can be made at any time after purchase.” (https://customerservice.macys.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/140?cm_sp=macys_customer_service-_-search_results-_-Need+more+information+about+our+return+and+exchange+policy%3F)This can be looked at as a false trail to the customers because the website and store are giving two different answers to the same question.

Just like American retailers, London based retailers like Slater’s, TK Maxx, and Marks & Spencer’s offer customers about the same thing when it comes to service “close to nothing”. Yes, the people in the UK may be more pleasant than Americans but when it comes to making customers happy, the feeling is rather mutual. The quality of work that people get from these large corporations does not differ from those American based companies. Places such as CAD and the Dandy offer the clientele star quality and treatment that is everlasting and offers great after care services to its customers. The same

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cannot be said about everyday retailers. If more retailers adapted this ideal of how to get customers to come back continuously they would have more loyal customers.

One of the most important things about CAD and the Dandy that differentiates them from both American and UK retailers that offer men’s bespoke suits is that they have a manufacturer in the UK where the garments and fabrics are made. Ian Meiers Tailor and Operations Director states that “But who wants to wear a light weight continental suit in the middle of a British winter?  That’s why Cad & The Dandy will continue to source the fabric for all its tailored suits directly from Huddersfield, England. Ian Meiers, Tailor and Operations Director, Cad & The Dandy.” (http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/wardrobe/its-all-in-the-finish/) This provides an in-depth scope on how CAD and the Dandy look at their customers. They believe in sourcing from where the suits are being made. No short cuts and ins and outs but they would rather supply their customers with the best.

As a result of faulty quality and customer service the above listed retailers shows that CAD and the Dandy have proven to be exceed expectations. Retailers in American such as Macy’s, JC Penney, and Lord and Taylor have a faulted customer service system because of the difference in handling services as of online and in store. In the UK stores like Slater’s, TK Maxx, and Marks & Spencer’s have a poor quality of garments in comparison to CAD and the Dandy and they source their garments outside of the UK. Consequently, customers are still left with questions about quality of garments, and customers are forced to look for the services at other locations like CAD and the Dandy offer.

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Sub Objective III: Evaluate the customer service design of CAD and the Dandy to that of the customer service designs of custom bespoke shops such as “King and Allen” and “A Suit that Fits”

As opposed to CAD and the Dandy there are other players in the bespoke men’s suit business that offer a wider array of services. The other players seem to offer other services that may prove to be of greater experience for their customers. One of the companies is “A Suit that Fits”, this company offers other things that CAD and the Dandy does not offer its customers. The company that is similar to A Suit that Fits and offers similar services is “King and Allen”. Both King and Allen and A Suit that Fits, offers the same services to the customers which differentiates them from competitors like CAD and the Dandy. This can prove that in order to stay on top CAD and the Dandy might want to rethink its target market and whom they service.

At A Suit that Fits, customers may find that what they are looking for is right there. One of the main differences from CAD and the Dandy that makes this particular company stand out is the fact that they service women also. With such a bigger clientele they can service more people and they also have more locations. According to the ABOUT US page on the website, the Co-Founder Warren Bennett had this to say about the ever expanding services that they offer at A Suit that Fits… “7 years after starting, A Suit That Fits has created over 50,000 bespoke garments and spans 34 studios, across

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the UK, Ireland and America, and we’re thrilled and very proud to be part of a fantastic and growing team of wonderful people in Europe, America and in Nepal.” (http://www.asuitthatfits.com/shop/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=13&Itemid=30) This simply goes to show that although CAD and the Dandy are a great company, with competitors like A Suit that Fits some changes would be great and expansion is always a plus.

On the other hand, one of the main competitors that are on the same tracks of A Suit that Fits is King and Allen. Just like CAD and the Dandy and A Suit that Fits, King and Allen also constructs custom made suits. Nevertheless, just like A Suit that Fits they cater to the female population as well. With them also catering to females and males like A Suit that Fits they to also have several different locations for clients to visit for fittings. The shops they own are in Surbiton, Wilmslow and Liverpool Street London, with fitting appointments in Savile Row, Canary Wharf and Charing Cross and regionally in Birmingham, Leeds and Nottingham. (http://www.kingandallen.co.uk)

Even though both A Suit that Fits and King and Allen offer great services one thing neither offers that would determine what customers come back is the after service care. CAD and the Dandy stand out mainly because they offer exhilarating after service care. After calling the company and speaking with a customer service representative, the company states that they offer a service where if any thing is wrong with the purchased garment then CAD and the Dandy will take this garment back and fix it free of charge.

Some of the similarities between CAD and the Dandy and King and Allen is that they both offer three different types of ways to have suits prepared. The first option is for customers to have their suits is a fully machined stitched. With this option customers receive a Unique Pattern- Entry level bespoke- Features include working cuffs, contrast boutonniere & cuff buttonhole detail- Choice of 120 house cloths. Also with option number one customers pay between £299- £399 (http://www.kingandallen.co.uk/savile-row-comparison/) The second option of service that customers receive is to have the suit prepared as a Half Canvas. The option that come along with this option are Unique Pattern - Half Canvas with a padded lapel- Extensive fabric range from Savile Row cloth merchants- Extensive range of features including contrast lapels, - pockets and stitching- Stab Stitching. The price range for this option ranges from £499- £999 (http://www.kingandallen.co.uk/savile-row-comparison/) The last and final option that both CAD and the Dandy and King and Allen offer is Full Canvas. The options for the final preparation that are offered include Unique Pattern- Full Floating Canvas- Hand stitched- Unlimited features- Unlimited cloth choice- Baste Fitting. The price range for this skilled tailoring work ranges from £699- £1299 (http://www.kingandallen.co.uk/savile-row-comparison/)

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Sub Objective IV: Analyze the future of CAD and the Dandy and how they may change the face of custom made bespoke men’s suits and change the fashion industry.

As previously stated, CAD and the Dandy exemplifies outstanding customer service on a level that no other can compare to. Regardless of whom their competitors are servicing, they have proven to be a leader in the bespoke men’s suit business. The things that they have can truly change the bespoke men’s suit business. First off, with a value chain that exceeds a normal chain, they are building an even greater value chain that would guarantee customers. Following the lean value chain that sets them aside from other services, they can compete with American and UK based retailers that are mainstream in the bespoke suits because they offer a better quality of garments. Finally, although their competitors offer services to both men and women no other tailoring shop offers after care service that CAD and the Dandy offers.

• STRENGTHS• Good after care service• Quality Garments• Old Tailoring techniques

• WEAKNESSES• Small # of locations• Only caters to men

• OPPORTUNITIES• Giveaways• Company expansion• Various Perks to attract more customers.

• THREATS• Not enough locations compared to competitors• Only services men• Could have a leaner Value Chain.

With all of these various things being a factor CAD and the Dandy have a strong future that can potentially make them the best Bespoke Men’s Suit Tailoring shop. To compete with competitors and make them better known they could probably offer services to women to some capacity that might bring in more business. Just as their competitor A Suit that Fits they could expand to other locations or stay in the places they are but offer other locations in those cities. For example they already have one location in New York so if they expand to other great American cities this would add to the revenue

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and reputation of the company. The final thing that might help CAD and the Dandy stay above water is to offer some perks. If they developed perks that mainstream retailers offer that might give them a boost and a better reputation. Some of the perks they can offer might include Gift Cards, Buy one get of 50% off, and even throwing in items such as socks, ties and even cuff lings once a certain amount is spent. All the above listed items and suggestions are things that would make for a positive, successful future for CAD and the Dandy and exemplary Customer Service for the future of Cad and the Dandy.

REFERENCES

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Asuitthatfits.com. 2013. A Suit That Fits - Tailored Suits | Made to Measure Suits | Bespoke Suits | Suits | Mens Suits | Womens Suits | Studios Throughout the UK. [online] Available at: http://www.asuitthatfits.com/shop/index.php?option=com_getstarted&task=view&id=943&Itemid=1&src=fromright [Accessed: 18 Nov 2013].

BusinessDictionary.com. 2013. What is customer service? definition and meaning. [online] Available at: http://www.businessdictionary.com/definition/customer-service.html [Accessed: 18 Nov 2013].

Cadandthedandy.co.uk. 2013. Bespoke Suits | Tailored Suits | Wedding Suits | Shirts | Made to Measure Suits - Cad & The Dandy. [online] Available at: http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk [Accessed: 18 Nov 2013].

Cadandthedandy.co.uk. 2013. Wardrobe - Cad & The Dandy. [online] Available at: http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/wardrobe/its-all-in-the-finish/ [Accessed: 18 Nov 2013].

Customerservice.macys.com. 2013. Need more information about our return and exchange policy?. [online] Available at: https://customerservice.macys.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/140?cm_sp=macys_customer_service-_-search_results-_-Need+more+information+about+our+return+and+exchange+policy%3F [Accessed: 18 Nov 2013].

Grose, V. 2012. Basics fashion management 01. Lausanne: AVA Pub..

Haberberg, A. and Rieple, A. 2008. Strategic management. Oxford: Oxford University Press.

History.org. 2013. Tailor Made for History : The Colonial Williamsburg Official History & Citizenship Site. [online] Available at: http://www.history.org/Foundation/journal/autumn05/tailor.cfm [Accessed: 18 Nov 2013].

Jcpenney.com. 2013. Men's Suits & Sport Coats - Shop Men's Blazers, Vests & Suit Jackets - jcpenney. [online] Available at: http://www.jcpenney.com/men/suits-sportcoats/cat.jump?id=cat100250022&deptId=dept20000014 [Accessed: 18 Nov 2013].

Kingandallen.co.uk. 2013. Bespoke Tailored Suits & Wedding Suits from Mens Tailor King & Allen. [online] Available at: http://www.kingandallen.co.uk [Accessed: 18 Nov 2013].

Lordandtaylor.com. 2013. Suits & Suit Separates | Men's | Lord and Taylor. [online] Available at: http://www.lordandtaylor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/en/lord-

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and-taylor/search/mens/MensSuiting [Accessed: 18 Nov 2013].

Marksandspencer.com. 2013. Slim Fit :  Suits :  Men's :  Marks & Spencer. [online] Available at: http://www.marksandspencer.com/Slim-Fit-Suits-Mens/b/437554031 [Accessed: 18 Nov 2013].

Oxforddictionaries.com. 2013. customer service: definition of customer service in Oxford dictionary (British & World English). [online] Available at: http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/customer-service [Accessed: 18 Nov 2013].

Semperey.com. 2013. Semperey Magazine - The Bespoke Tailoring of London. [online] Available at: http://www.semperey.com/london-the-spiritual-home-of-bespoke-tailoring/ [Accessed: 18 Nov 2013].

Slaters.co.uk. 2013. Party Shirt | Fancy Shirts | Dressy Shirts | Smart Shirts | Slaters. [online] Available at: http://www.slaters.co.uk/gifts-1/mens-christmas-partywear [Accessed: 18 Nov 2013].

Tkmaxx.com. 2013. Men's Suits | Suits | Wedding Suits | TK Maxx. [online] Available at: http://www.tkmaxx.com/men/suits/icat/2301 [Accessed: 18 Nov 2013].

MA Fashion Business Management Strategic Fashion Business Management

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Strategic Fashion Business Management

Quincy Ibn Carter

Proposed Title:A comparative analysis of a customer service business model developed by CAD

and the Dandy, compared to main stream business players in the bespoke men’s suit business and other custom made bespoke suit retailers.

Sub Objectives: 1. To analyze the value chain of CAD and the Dandy and the key differences

between the United Kingdom locations and the New York location. 2. Compare and Contrast the customer service business model and the Quality of

work of American and European based stores that sale men’s bespoke suits and CAD and the Dandy.

3. Evaluate the customer service design of CAD and the Dandy to that of the customer service designs of custom bespoke shops such as “King and Allen” and “A suit that Fits”

4. Analyze the future of CAD and the Dandy and how they may change the face of custom made bespoke men’s suits and change the fashion industry

To support the above stated information data and information have been collected from the following mediums…

Bespoke Tailored Suits & Wedding Suits from Mens Tailor King & Allen. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.kingandallen.co.uk/?_$ja=kw:king+and+allen%7Ccgn:Brand%7Ccgid:1436388714%7Ctsid:9953%7Ccn:New+-+Brand%7Ccid:37661544%7Clid:1581364462%7Cmt:Exact%7Cnw:search%7Ccrid:7724476254&gclid=CMH-9eq1tboCFfHItAod32AAiw

CAD and the Dandy (n.d.). Bespoke Suits | Tailored Suits | Wedding Suits | Shirts | Made to Measure Suits - Cad & the Dandy. Retrieved October 2013, from http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk

Grose, V. (2011). Basics Fashion Management 01: Concept to Customer: Concept to Customer. 1000 Lausanne: Ava Publishing SA.

Haberberg, A., & Rieple, A. (2008). Strategic management: Theory and application. Oxford [u.a.: Oxford Univ. Press.

Macy's - Shop Fashion Clothing & Accessories - Official Site - Macys.com. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.macys.com/?cm_mmc=GOOGLE_Trademark_International-_-Macys+Trademark+Exact+UK+-+G_Macy%27s-_-32931408214_Exact-_-macy's_mkwid_sHYsRIHul%7Cdc_32931408214%7C-%7CHYsRIHul

Search GQ.COM (UK) - GQ.COM (UK). (n.d.). Retrieved October 2013, from http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/search?q=Men's%20Bespoke%20suits

Shop Online When You Visit The United States at Sears. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.sears.com/shc/s/dap_10153_12605_DAP_Shopping%20in%20the

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%20US%20United%20States?lang=en&storeId=10153&vName=Shopping%20in%20the%20US%20United%20States&catalogInd=DAP&catalogId=12605&i_cntr=1307629512931

Tailored Suits | Made to Measure Suits | Bespoke Suits | Suits | Mens Suits | Womens Suits | Studios Throughout the UK - A Suit That Fits. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.asuitthatfits.com/shop/index.php?adtype=ppc&gclid=COr4iYC2tboCFceWtAodQiAAHQ

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