Correct Selection of Your Base (Carrier) Oil

Base oil or Carrier oil? Both terms are correct and basically mean the same thing. Carrier is pretty self explanatory. It means the product used to “Carry” the essential oils or perfumes, in this case oil and originated from fragrance making. Originally used in manufacturing, “Base” is derived from the choice of “Base” medium used to blend the essential oils or perfumes into. Base can be shampoo, cream, lotion etc.When producing a blend of essential oils using an oil base (carrier), correct selection of the base oil is as important as the essential oil or perfume you may add to it.

The most important thing to consider is the job the completed blend is going to do, the client profile it is intended for and the area of the body and skin type it will be applied to.The correct base oil combination will do 95% of the work when it comes to skin/hair conditioning blends.Before we get onto blending therapy oil products, we will have a quick look at the most common oil bases available. There are lots of others; you can see some of them on our site.REMEMBER: when buying a carrier oil, if it has a fishy smell...it’s off!Check the colour: when buying a jojoba for instance, it should be golden, a good rosehip is orange/amber and smells of cake mix, fractionated coconut is clear and odourless, soya and sweet almond are pale yellow with very little odour. Also check if you have bought refined cosmetic grade or unrefined. Some oils need to be refined as they are so full of impurities but others are much better unrefined, for instance rosehip.

Here we go...we will be using the star system again for oils to stock initially. These oil descriptions are direct from our website.

(Sweet) AlmondBOTANICAL NAME Prunus amygdalus 

Sweet Almond is an excellent emollient and is known for its ability to soften and re-condition the skin. It is rich in proteins and Vitamin D, and is considered extremely nourishing - particularly when used regularly. Contains Olein Glyceride Linoleic Acid. It can be expected to sooth dry skin and irritated areas. Massage therapists should note that it can stain sheets. In the olden days, massage therapists used this or grapeseed as that was what they were taught at college and they were both readily available. Nowadays, things have moved on and there are lots of alternatives.

AROMATIC: Sweet Almond has very little scent characteristic of most carrier oils. 

EXTRACTION METHOD: Cold Pressed COLOUR: Golden YellowCONSISTENCY: Typical and Characteristic of Carrier Oils ABSORPTION: Absorbs into skin at average speed, slight oil feeling left on skin. SHELF LIFE: Sweet Almond is slow to become rancid; users can expect up to 2 years with proper Storage (cool, out of direct sunlight). Refrigeration after opening is recommended if your are keeping it in a warm atmosphere.USES: Sweet Almond is a very popular, all purpose carrier oil. It is used by manufacturers, Aromatherapists, and massage therapists.CAUTIONS: Should not be used by people with nut allergies

Apricot Oil pure and natural odourless Suitable for dry or sensitive skin

 OIL BOTANICAL NAME Prunus armeniaca 

Apricot Oil is good for all skin types. It is very rich and nourishing - particularly in vitamin A. AROMATIC: Apricot oil has very little scent characteristic of most carrier oils EXTRACTION METHOD: Cold Pressed COLOUR: Slight Yellow CONSISTENCY: Typical and Characteristic of Carrier Oils. ABSORPTION: Absorbs into skin quickly SHELF LIFE: Apricot oil is slow to go rancid; users can expect a shelf life of 6 Months to 1 Year with proper storage conditions (cool, out of direct sunlight). Refrigeration after opening is recommended.USES: Apricot Kernel is a very popular oil and is suitable for manufacturers, Aromatherapists and massage therapists. Dry and sensitive skin types add up 20% of Apricot in the blend.Ideal in facial blends combined with other base oils

Avocado Oil Pure and Natural a lush, thick oil full of goodness great for enhancing skin and hair blends (maximum of 20% because of viscosity)

   BOTANICAL NAME Persea americana Avocado contains Vitamins A, B1, B2, D, E, and Beta carotene. It is classified as a monosaturated oil. It is best suited for dry skin conditions in topical applications.AROMATIC: Avocado has very little scent characteristic of most carrier oils 

EXTRACTION METHOD: Cold Pressed Virgin Unrefined, still full of all its goodnessCOLOUR: Yellow/Green to Green/Brown depending upon the Lot. Avocado may go cloudy in low temperatures but will return to normal. CONSISTENCY: Typical but slightly thicker than most Carrier Oils. ABSORPTION: Avocado will leave a sticky, waxy feel if applied topically to large areas of skin SHELF LIFE: Avocado oil is slow to go rancid; users can expect a shelf life of 9 Months to well over 2 Years with proper storage conditions (cool, out of direct sunlight). Refrigeration after opening is recommended.

USES: Small amounts of Avocado Oil are typically added to other carrier oils in order to enrich protein and vitamin content. It is used predominantly by manufacturers (particularly great in soaps, lotions and creams) and massage therapists. We recommend for hair and skin nourishing blends.

CAUTIONS: None documented 

Coconut Oil Pure and Natural skincare haircare full of vitamins (FRACTIONATED: ODOURLESS)

 BOTANICAL NAME Cocos nucifera fractionated

Fractionated Coconut Oil is liquid at room temperature, odourless and full of vitamins and good stuff. It is used to create a barrier on the skin. It is also the preferred oil for high quality cold process soap making. 

AROMATIC: Coconut has a very slight scent, but is generally considered odourless 

EXTRACTION METHOD: Cold Pressed 

COLOUR: White to CLEAR

CONSISTENCY: liquid. 

ABSORPTION: Coconut creates an oily, protective barrier on the skin. 

SHELF LIFE: fractionated Coconut Oil has an indefinite shelf life if stored correctly

USES: Coconut Oil is a very popular oil and is suitable for manufacturers, Aromatherapists and massage therapists. Superb as a massage oil base, or added

to other products to enhance nourishing properties. Superb as a base for all products, brilliant in hair oils or conditioners. An absolute must!

Grapeseed Pure and Natural Oil Ideal for greasy skin (not for dry or sensitive skin)

 

 

GRAPESEED  PURE & NATURAL OIL ~ POURED TO ORDER BOTANICAL NAME Vitis vinifera 

Grapeseed Oil is used as a base oil for many creams and lotions. It is the preferred carrier oils for many massage therapists because of its light, satin like finish. It also has some astringent qualities and is good for oily, acne prone skin but may be too drying for delicate, dry or sensitive skin.

AROMATIC: Grapeseed Oil is odourless and characteristic of most carrier oils 

EXTRACTION METHOD: Cold Press 

COLOUR: Golden Yellow with a Hearty Green Tone 

CONSISTENCY: Grapeseed is one of the Lightest carrier oils available 

ABSORPTION: Easily Absorbed 

SHELF LIFE: up to two years if kept cool and dark

USES: Grapeseed Oil is heavily used in massage therapy, cosmetic manufacturing, and in aromatherapy. It has a drying & stripping effect and is ideal for greasy skin. Not recommended for sensitive or dry skin.

CAUTIONS: None documented

Jojoba Pure and Natural Golden Stunning Oil Haircare Skincare

 There is currently a world shortage of jojoba oil, hence the horrendous price. Hopefully after the crop in July the price with get back to normal.

JOJOBA PURE & NATURAL OIL ~ GOLDENBOTANICAL NAME simmondsia chinensis 

Jojoba is not actually an Oil, but is a wax, and can be used as facial Oil, and is rapidly absorbed.

AROMATIC: Jojoba has very little scent characteristic of most carrier oils 

EXTRACTION METHOD: Cold Pressed 

COLOUR: Golden Yellow 

CONSISTENCY: Typical of most Carrier Oils. 

ABSORPTION: 

SHELF LIFE: 

USES: Jojoba Oil is a most popular addition to skin care products, and is often used alone as a facial oil as it contains natural collagen, which is almost identical in structure to the collagen present in our skin. Jojoba Oil is superb in Massage Oils (blend up to 20% with another carrier Oil of your choice), Hair Oils, Soaps, and Skin & Hair Preparations.

CAUTIONS: None documented 

Macadamia Pure and Natural Use to enhance dry skin blends

 

 BOTANICAL NAME Macadamia integrifolia 

Macadamia Oil is fantastic regenerative oil. It is high in mono-unsaturated fatty acids, contains Palmitoleic acid (promotes young soft skin), as well as omega 3 and omega 6 fatty acids. It has been successfully used to help heal scars and sunburns and is considered Very safe with uses in facial and baby products.AROMATIC: SlightEXTRACTION METHOD: Cold Pressed COLOUR: Slightly yellow CONSISTENCY: Slighter thicker than typical Carrier Oils. ABSORPTION: Macadamia will leave an oily feeling on the skin SHELF LIFE: Macadamia oil is extremely slow to go rancid with proper storage conditions (cool, out of direct sunlight, amber glass). USES: Macadamia is popular in cosmetic manufacturing and in combination with other carrier oils, can be used in both massage and aromatherapy.

PEACH KERNAL 100% PURE & NATURAL OIL superb delicate skincare oil (PEA100)

 

PEACH KERNEL  PURE & NATURAL OIL ~ POURED TO ORDER BOTANICAL NAME Prunus persica 

Peach Kernel is an excellent emollient and is known for its ability to soften and re-condition the skin. It is considered extremely nourishing - particularly when used regularly. It has a very similar consistency to Almond Oil and they are often stated as substitutes for each other. 

The tree is native to China and bears a juicy fruit of the same name. It is a small deciduous tree growing to 5–10 m tall.

The scientific name persica derives from an early European belief that peaches were native to Persia (now Iran). The modern botanical consensus is that they originate in China, and were introduced to Persia and the Mediterranean region along the Silk Road in early historical times, probably by about 2000 BC 

AROMATIC : Peach Kernel has very little scent characteristic of most carrier oils. 

EXTRACTION METHOD: Cold Pressed 

COLOUR: Golden Yellow

CONSISTENCY: Typical and Characteristic of Carrier Oils 

ABSORPTION: Absorbs into skin at easily. 

SHELF LIFE: Peach Kernel is slow to become rancid; users can expect 6 Months to 1 Year with proper Storage (cool, out of direct sunlight). Refrigeration after opening is recommended.

USES: Peach Kernel oil is used in massage, cosmetics and soap manufacturing especially favoured for facial massages as it encourages suppleness and elasticity. 

CAUTIONS: None documented

Rosehip Pure Organic Cold Press Oil from Chile It doesn't get any better than this, all mature, damaged or ageing skin, use up to 20% in a blends (ROSH100)

      

Rosa Rubiginosa (Rosa Mosqueta) Extraction – ChileCultivation /Origin: Rosa Rubiginosa is from the seeds contained in the red berry-like fruits or “hips” of a wild rose bush that grows in the cold, lush mountain valley of the southern Andes, in Chile.Summary of benefits of Rosa Rubiginosa in skin care:

Hydrates Skin Revitalizes Increases Elasticity Builds Collagen Repairs damaged skin, burns, sunburns Protects from environment when used as a preventative Dry and tired skin becomes balanced and rejuvenated Reducing surgical and dermal scars Helps reduce wrinkles and fine lines Helps reduce stretch marks

SCIENTIFIC STUDIES ON ROSA RUBIGINOSA

 What is the component in the oil that makes it work so well on skin? The positive action of Rosa Rubiginosa in helping to regenerate damaged tissues is due to its content of Retinoic Acid in a natural state as part of a complex system of unsaturated essential fatty acids. This component responsible for the remarkable pharmacological properties of Rosa Rubiginosa oil. Retinoic acid is a derivative of Retinol (Vitamin A).The therapeutic effects of the topical application of Vitamin A have been well documented and recognized for 30 years. The most significant results have been found in the treatment of sun-damaged skin.  Rosa Rubiginosa produces all the benefits of Retinol (Vitamin A) but without the secondary side effects that are commonly found in products containing retinoic acid that has been synthesized in the laboratory. Its action is controlled and slowly released by nature, eliminating the risk of overdose. 

Why use Rosa Rubiginosa Oil instead of a facial crème?Using the oil to hydrate your face and the delicate skin around the eyes is more effective than a crème for several reasons.

Natural oils penetrate quickly and completely with gentle massaging instead of rubbing.

Crèmes leave residue that can clog the pores in the delicate tissue around the eyes.  The unique texture of this tissue responds better to the molecular structure of natural oils than to that of crèmes.

Crèmes are often filled with petro-chemicals and harsh preservatives.

Prevention: Using Rosa Rubiginosa as a preventative is the best you can do for your skin.  It is recommended to start using this oil at age 20, especially for people who burn easily or are exposed to sunlight for long periods of time.  Apply once a day to the entire face.Aging and Sun-Damage: Rosa oil is very effective in halting and even reversing the effects produced by the UV-rays on the skin.  Significant changes can be noticed after the fourth week of

continuous application.  For extremely sun damaged skin, you should apply Rosa heavily at least twice a day and do not expect results for about 16 weeks.

SOYA BEAN 100% PURE & NATURAL OIL use as vitamin e in all your blends

 

BOTANICAL NAME Soja hispida 

Soya Bean Oil is extremely high in Lecithin, Sterolins, and Vitamin E. 

Like corn and some other crops long domesticated by man, the relationship of the modern soya bean to wild-growing species can no longer be traced with any degree of certainty. It is a cultural variety (a cultigen) with a very large number of cultivars. However, it is known that the progenitor of the modern soya bean was a vine-like plant that grew prone on the ground.

Beans are classed as pulses whereas soya beans are classed as oilseeds. The word soy is derived from the Japanese word shoyu (soy sauce/soya sauce).

AROMATIC: Soya Bean Oil has very little scent which is characteristic of most carrier oils 

EXTRACTION METHOD: Cold Pressed 

COLOUR: Pale yellow 

CONSISTENCY: It is slightly thinner in consistency than most carrier oils. 

ABSORPTION: Absorbs into the skin readily. 

SHELF LIFE: Soya Bean oil is slow to become rancid; users can expect a shelf life

of between 1 and 2 years with proper Storage (cool, out of direct sunlight). Refrigeration after opening is recommended. 

USES: Soya bean is a stunning oil and  is now becoming very popular with forward thinking therapists, principally because the oil is very light, high in vitamin E etc. and a really good alternative to Sweet Almond Oil which is probably the most popular of all carriers. We highly recommend this all for all purposes and it is extremely high in vitamin e. You may find it sold as pure vitamin e by people out to make some money, don't fall for it. There is no such thing as a vitamin e plant. Excellent for massage and giving blends longevity, a cheaper alternative to vitamin e chemical concentrate & wheatgerm. Great in soaps too, an absolute must for your kit.

Wheatgerm pure and natural oil ~ lengthen the life of your blends

  BOTANICAL NAME Triticum vulgare 

Wheatgerm oil is extremely high in vitamin E, which is a pure and natural antioxidant and essential fatty acids. 

The germ is the "heart" of the cereal kernel; the embryo of the seed, and a concentrated source of several essential nutrients including Vitamin E, folate (folic acid), phosphorus, thiamin, zinc and magnesium. 

AROMATIC: Wheatgerm Oil has very little scent which is characteristic of most carrier oils 

EXTRACTION METHOD: Cold Pressed 

COLOUR: Pale yellow 

CONSISTENCY: Medium consistency with a slight viscosity.

ABSORPTION: Absorbs into the skin reasonably quickly but will leave a sticky trace if used neat. 

SHELF LIFE: Wheatgerm oil is slow to become rancid; users can expect a shelf life of between 6 to 12 months with proper Storage (cool, out of direct sunlight). Refrigeration after opening is recommended. 

USES: Wheatgerm oil is a perfect addition to add skin nourishment in massage

blends or for preparing carrier blends. In beauty, skincare, and aromatherapy, Wheatgerm massage blends assist in promoting circulation and formation of new cells to improve appearance of skin. It will help in repairing sun and wind damaged skin cells. It is best to use Wheatgerm oil as an additive to other lighter oils as it leaves a sticky trace if used neat and is a touch heavy. Used to give longevity to blends, however a much cheaper alternative is soya which is also high in vitamin e and half the price.

CAUTIONS: None noted 

So there we have, the main base/carrier oils, as I have said earlier, there are plenty of others and some are more fashionable than others. In a lot of cases, the fashionable oils actually have very little scientific back up to their astounding effects and the hype is often generated by the cosmetic companies looking for something new. Take a lot of what your hear with a pinch of salt Lets get to some basic blending...

Facial Oils

When blending facial oil you are predominately looking at the job you want the oil to do and the oil selection is dependent on this and also the skin type it is going to be applied to.In my experience there are few essential oils that work really well in blends, these are listed below. It is more important to concentrate on the base oil blend as that will be doing most of the work.

Skin Type Do’s and Don’tsYoung or problematic skin, avoid rosehip and avocado as these oils will exacerbate the problem. Grapefruit, juniper, lavender, tea tree and chamomile work well in these blends.

Dry/Mature Skin Avoid grapeseed as it strips the skin and concentrate on avocado, jojoba, coconut, and rosehip.Essential oils like neroli, chamomile, lavender, geranium, frankincense, and rose work well in combination.

Delicate or Sensitive Skin Concentrate on fractionated coconut, peach kernel, apricot and macadamia. We wouldn’t add any essentials to a sensitive skin blend because of the ease of reaction.

Remember try not to use oils such as avocado, jojoba or rosehip alone as they are extremely viscous (thick) and work much better at a maximum concentration of 20%. You may also find they cause pore clogging when used alone.

Types of facial OilFacial oils can be used for cleansing, shaving, serum concentrates or moisturisers.More often than not the same oils are used for a particular blend but at different ratios.

Cleansing oil/Shaving Oil/Moisturising Oil

To make 100ml

80ml of chosen main base for example soya and/or coconut because of their high vitamin e content, ease of absorption and then the final 20% to consist of oils that do a specific job. A typical Antiageing Blend would contain 10% rosehip and 10% jojoba. You can then add up to 15 drops of your chosen essential oils. Again thinking of antiageing, 5 drops x lavender, 3 x neroli, 2 x frankincense, 2 x chamomile, 3 x geranium. Obviously theoretically you can add up 50 drops per 100ml of base product but we have found this is often too much for the face.

Serum ConcentrateThese products are normally used before retiring as they tend to be a lot thicker and wont readily sit under makeup. Thinking of a mature and dry skin blend, using 100ml of base for instance avocado, jojoba and coconut, the blend would be 20% each of the avocado and jojoba topped up with fractionated coconut, to the blend add frankincense and rose at a ratio of 2-7 drops to every 10ml of base oil. Think about under the eyes too, you don’t want the blend too strong if being applied in that area.Intense : Scars & Damage Blend or Anti ageing20ml rosehip20ml jojoba60ml fractionated coconut10 drops lavender5 chamomile5 frankincense5 neroli5 rose (optional)

Hair OilThere is a lot of hype about hair oils. The majority on the market have some naturals in but are predominately silicones and similar. This is to provide the shine and sleekness without making your hair greasy. The best nourishing oils for hair condition are jojoba, argan, coconut, soya and avocado, we also use oil called baobab and add butters to our blends. Blended pretty much the same way as the cleansing oils adding your chosen nourishers from the above at a maximum of 30%. The ideal blend being 70% fractionated coconut or soya and 10% jojoba, 15% argan and 5% avocado. You can then add the essentials 25 drops to 100ml. Essentials

such as rosemary and thyme are added to some blends to promote hair growth but it may be worth adding essential oils or perfume oils you actually like the smell of and using your blend as a hair and body blend.The secret to hair oil is to remember when you are using it that “Less is more”. Generally a 5p piece size rubbed between your palms to warm and the lightly rubbed over the ends and any damaged areas whilst your hair is wet, then finishing with lightly smoothing any fuzziness down with a drop more when the hair is dry.

So there it is, I have kept to the basics, the secret to blending is to do your homework , find out which oils you actually like, check the allergen data, check their price, some of the blends I see recommended on the net make me howl... with a decent rose oil being £50.00 for 10ml not many folks have it sitting on the bathroom shelf. As always, I am here to help and if you want to run a blend by me, feel free, I will give you my 10 penneth worth .Hope you have enjoyed thisMuch love Alison x