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Caring for Kittens
A guide for new kittens
Before you buy...
Spend some time considering your family and your home. We always recommend cats are kept
indoors. They are just so much safer that way and they live longer. We see too many cats hit by
cars, with feline AIDS, cat fight wounds etc. etc. etc. The list is LONG! Cat runs are a great alternative.
A kitten that has never learnt to go outside doesn’t have a reason to miss what it doesn’t know.
Please consider this before introducing your cat to the outdoors.
IF your cat is going to go outside please consider;
Pet insurance – to be discussed later in this handout
Vaccinating for feline AIDS ‐ a MUST for any cat that goes outside.
The native wildlife – cats kill because they enjoy it, not because they are hungry. All cats
that go outside will try to kill birds and small animals. Please consider this, particularly if you
live near bushland.
If you need some help with this decision please feel free to give us a call. Also, it is worth discussing
the breed with the various breed associations. If you would be happy with a mixed breed (commonly
referred to as domestic short/long haired cats) consider adopting one from a welfare organisation
and giving a cat a second chance at life.
If you are looking for a breeder of pure bred cat try to;
1. Ask for recommendations from the breed association
2. Ask if the kitten has been vet checked, micro chipped and vaccinated
3. Ask about the health of the parents of your new pet. Have they had any testing done to
check for inheritable diseases?
Another option is to get your new cat DNA tested after you get it. This can tell you what the
likelihood is of them getting some common problems that are inherited through their breeding,
allowing you to plan for the future.
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Welcoming you new fur baby home;
How exciting, having a new little bundle of fluff to play with… Even so it is important to remember
that your kitten is probably still very young. Often the day you bring them home is the first time
they have ever left their mother, siblings and birthplace. This means they have a lot to adjust to!
They also need a lot of sleep!
Before you bring your kitten home it is a good idea to get everything ready; from food and water to
a place to sleep and something that they are allowed to chew. Having a few toys and a scratching
post can help to encourage them to develop good behaviours and allow you to teach them the right
things to scratch, instead of the couch!
Be PATIENT. You are trying to train a baby – they do need to be told things more than once and
being consistent is important. This applies to all members of the family so it may be a good idea to
have a set of rules that everyone follows. It is not a good idea to teach a cat that it is allowed on the
couch only when Mum’s not home; imagine how confused the little thing will be when it gets told
off some of the time and encouraged the rest of the time.
Please remember that cats are not social animals and in the wild they live as individuals not as a
pack like dogs. For this reason it is not uncommon for cats in a household to fight. It is us that want
to put them together in a confined are against their will! When getting a second cat think long and
hard, it may not all be smooth sailing. If introducing two cats it is important to go slow. First let
each cat roam and explore the area separately, then let them see each other in a way that they can’t
meet such as through a window. Gradually they can be allowed together but do not force the issue
and at first small periods of time are best. You can gradually build up to more.
So where to start?
When you bring your new kitty home give it some time to explore. Don’t force the matter – they will
look around when they are ready. Show them where their bed, food and water are and where their
litter is. Let them have some time to themselves – they need to adjust! This is particularly
important where children are concerned. With young children I recommend setting a timer for an
hour a few times a day; encourage your kids to let the new pet do its own thing until the timer goes
off give the kitten a chance to settle in and to sleep!
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Litter training
Now is the time to build habits for life so be consistent and at first make sure your kitten spends
most of its time in a small area close to its litter. This may mean spending the nights in the laundry.
Cats don’t like their litter to be in a high traffic area or a noisy place so next to the toilet or the loud
washing machine is not a good idea. They also like a bit of privacy but do not like covered trays. Try
and find a quiet out of the way place for the tray.
The tray itself should be large enough for them to turn around and dig in so small trays are out. You
will NEED at least one tray per cat + 1 and these can’t be side by side or you will have problems.
The litter
Studies have found that cats like a fine sandy style litter that is not scented. They all like different
depths of litter but my advice would be to place a few sheets of news‐paper then a handful or two of
litter and change it daily rather than scoop out the lumps.
The main reasons adult cats have issues using litter are not enough trays, poorly placed trays and
dirty litter so keep this in mind.
Remember litter training a cat is like toilet training a toddler. It takes time and there may be
accidents. Don’t scold for these, clean it up with an agent like ‘Urine Off’ or a thick paste of Biozet
and water. Other cleaners may smell to the kitten like another cat has marked there and cause them
to go back to the place. Keeping your kitten in a small room with the litter tray and (as far from the
tray as possible) food water and a bed. This will encourage them to use the tray. Remove the
washing and any other items the cat may have accidents on.
At the clinic we use Breeders Choice cat litter as it is a
recycled paper product, unscented and biodegradable.
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Scratching
Kittens are naturally playful but unfortunatley they come with sharp claws attached. They need to
sharpen these to help them shed dead pieces of nail and will use whatevers handy.
For this reason we recommend having a scratching post, prefrably a tall one infront of a window,
and encouraging them to play on it. This may go a long way towards saving your couch.
Cutting their nails will also help but you need to be
careful not to cut to far. Please ask our staff to help
show you how to correctly cut their nails or book in to
have one of our nurses do it for you.
If all that fails you can get a silicone claw cover that is
glued over their natural nail. The claws are trimmed first
and then the cover trimmed to size so it does not push
into the nail bed which would be uncomfotable.
Although they look adorable as they come in a range of
colours these are only recommended where absolutley necessary and not as a fashion accessory as
cats would prefer not to have them on.
The main brand is “Soft Paws” and can be purchased on ebay quite cheaply.
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Food
Kittens should be fed on a high quality (premium) dry food. They do not NEED wet food and you are
largely paying for water. It also does little to help the teeth and gums.
With so many options on the market today it can be hard to navigate through the maze of cat
foods in a pet shop. Here are some things that you need to consider;
Kittens grow fast! It is important that they do this the right way otherwise the result can be very
costly in the future. This is the most crucial time in your cats life to select the right food.
There is a big difference between the premium foods and the rest. Generally premium foods are
only stocked by pet shops and stock feed stores etc. While not being able to grab a packet of the
shelf at the local supermarket is a pain the effort is well worth it. Generally speaking premium foods
create a healthier cat that grows better, has a shiny healthy coat and produces smaller, firmer and
less odorous poo. This is amazing when they are using a litter tray indoors!
Premium foods are different because:
They contain less ‘fillers’. These are things that bulk out the food, the end result being your
cat needs to eat more for the same amount of nutrition. This means that you need to buy
more food so although the packet may be cheaper you will go through it much faster.
Key nutrients. Many foods supply basic nutrition, enough to keep them going but not for
optimal development. This is often why some cats have a very dull dry coat. Higher levels of
nutrients such as antioxidants make a big difference.
Dental care. Many of the ‘junk’ foods your cat loves are very soft or crumbly. This does
nothing to help keep their teeth scrubbed clean. A good dry food should hold together while
your cat’s tooth bites into it, right to the base. Many cheaper alternatives crumble under
hardly any pressure, cleaning the tip of the tooth but not much else. This is why the size of
the kibble is also important. Ideally the kibble should be a little larger than the largest tooth
in your cat’s mouth; otherwise it’s not going to get a thorough clean. Consider the cost of
future anaesthetics and dental procedures when deciding to use a supermarket food!
Better cuts of meat. When a carcass is disassembled for meat many cheaper foods use the
parts that are left over and unsuitable for human consumption. This includes all the ugly bits
we would rather not think about! (often this is termed ‘bi‐products) In contrast when
reading the packet of premium foods look for statements like ‘High quality lamb protein
with natural ingredients’ (Hills), or ‘highest quality Australian chicken’ (Advance).
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We often recommend the Advance pet food range because this is what we feed our own pets. For
us the decision was made due to a combination of quality and price. There are other really good
foods out there; like Royal Canin and Hills and you need to choose the food that is right for you
and your budget. Please see the back of the product packaging for how much to feed as all foods
vary slightly; For Advance and Hills some information is given below (current as of 23/10/14)
ADVANCE KITTEN PLUS
1 Standard metric cup = 115g. The above is a guide only.
* AAC - ADVANCE Adult Cat diet
HILLS SCIENCE DIET KITTEN
Age of Kitten
(in weeks)
Bodyweight (kg)
Amountof food (g/day)
Bodyweight (kg)
Amountof food (g/day)
8 0.9 50 0.7 39
12 1.3 69 1.1 59
16 2 91 1.6 73
24 3 114 2.2 84
32 3.6 1.5 2.6 76
40 4 102 3 76
48 4.5 80 4 71
>48 >4.5 AAC >4 AAC
Weight
Growth less
than 4
months
Growth
4 to 6
months
Growth 7
to 12 months
and Pregnancy
0.5 kg 1/4 cup (30 g)
0.9kg 3/8 cup (45 g) 1/3 cup (40 g)
1.4kg 1/2 cup (65 g) 3/8 cup (45 g)
1.8kg 5/8 cup (80 g) 1/2 cup (65 g)
2.3kg 3/4 cup (95 g) 5/8 cup (80 g) 1/2 cup (65 g)
4.5kg
1 cup (125 g) 7/8 cup (110 g)
6.8kg
1 1/8 cups (140 g)
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Too fat or too thin?
First use the following chart to assess your pup’s condition. We should generally aim for a body score of 3 as seen below. If you pup is to lean increase their food a little, if too fat then reduce it a little. If there is un-explained weight loss or you have issues getting it right please call us to discuss what to do next.
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Intestinal Worms – What’s all the fuss about?
Kittens get worms form their mother at birth so all new kittens should be considered as having worms. No worm product is 100% effective and worms can be picked up from many places therefore it is important to worm dogs regularly. This is particularly important in kitten as their body is not yet developed enough to keep worms under control. This means that worms can be FATAL in young cats if not treated.
This image is of a typical tapeworm that can
be found in cats. The separate pieces or
segments may often be found crawling
along the carpet or on the fur around that
cats bottom. They can actually move! Each
segment has everything it needs to grow
new worms and cats re infect themselves by
grooming.
There are a variety of worms that can infect cats and many of these can also infect humans. Kittens
should be wormed according to the following program with a good quality intestinal wormer such as
Milbemax or popantel tablets or profender spot on. Avoid supermarket preparations as these may
be less effective.
When to treat:
Every 2 weeks from birth to 12 weeks old
Monthly from 12 weeks to 6 months
Then every 3 months for life
Profender is a newer product on the market that you simply squeeze onto the back of your cats fur
and unlike earlier preparations like advocate does tapeworm as well. This is a good solution to cats
that are difficult to give tablet too.
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Fleas and Ticks
Ticks: Ticks are generally not a problem in and around Geelong and paralysis tick
(Ixodes holocyclus) is not seen here. If traveling with your dog please consult the clinic
regarding the latest options in tick prevention.
Fleas:
Fleas are tiny black/brown insects that live in the environment and survive by
feeding on domestic animals. They can cause a range of issues from skin
inflammation through to flea allergy dermatitis and infection. They also play a role
in the transmission of tapeworms as flea larvae eat tapeworm eggs and may then
travel from host to host. The good news is that fleas are generally easily
controlled.
Because it is important to treat all cats and dogs in the household we will discuss both species here.
There are a range of products available on the market to treat fleas. Generally we recommend a
veterinary or pet store produce as many of those stocked at supermarkets are infective.
Most products are applied on to the back of the next or given orally once every month and do a great job
of controlling fleas. The product chosen will depend on the type of treatment you find easier and your
pets coat, lifestyle and in some cases sensitivity to flea bites.
Some of the products we recommend are listed on the next page. We stock the products pictured.
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Advantage and Frontline
Advantage and frontline come as liquid
pippetes applied to the back of the dog or
cats neck once a month.
It is important to get the product for the
right species/size animal
May be applied every two weeks in flea
outbreaks
Not the best option for very thick coated
dogs or where animals are bathed frequently
Comfortis
A chewable meat flavoured tablet given to
dogs or cats (same product) monthly with
food
Must be given with food or they may vomit
Great for animals that are regularly bathed,
swim or have thick coats.
Great for flea allergy dermatitis cases
Not a good option for animals that are
difficult to tablet and won’t take medication
in food
Advocate and Revolution
The same properties as advantage however it
also treats most of the intestinal worms
Treats heartworm
Does not treat tapeworm infection but helps to
prevent it as it treats fleas.
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Vaccinations
Your kitten may have had a vaccination with the breeder, in which case they should have a vaccine
card signed by the vet that will tell you when they are next due for a needle. If not please contact
the clinic as soon as possible to discuss what to do next. Generally if unsure it is better to give an
extra vaccine than risk contracting nasty diseases. It is strongly recommended that all cats are kept
indoors until their full kitten vaccination course is complete.
Generally at Vet 2 Pet kittens will get one vaccination at 6‐8 weeks old. This starts to develop
immunity against the four key diseases and is often called an F4 vaccination:
The components of the F4 vaccination;
Inactivated feline rhinotracheitis virus, panleucopaenia virus and feline calicivirus, and Chlamydophila felis (Fel‐O‐Vax®4)
Feline Enteritis (also known as Feline Panleucopenia)
It is very contagious and the death rate is high, especially under 12 months of age. Pregnant cats
may lose their young or give birth to kittens with abnormalities, quite often with brain damage.
Symptoms are depression, loss of appetite, uncontrollable vomiting and diarrhoea, often with blood
and severe abdominal pain.
The virus spreads so easily that heavily contaminated areas may need cleaning with a special
disinfectant. Cats that do recover may continue to carry the virus for some time and infect other
cats.
Feline Respiratory Disease or ‘Cat flu’
It is caused in 90% of cases by feline herpesvirus (feline rhinotracheitis) and/or feline calicivirus.
Feline respiratory disease affects cats of all ages, especially young kittens, Siamese and Burmese
cats. It is highly contagious and causes sneezing, coughing, runny eyes, nasal discharge, loss of
appetite and tongue ulcers.
Fortunately, the death rate is low except in young kittens, but the disease is distressing and may
persist for several weeks. Recovered cats can continue to carry and spread the infection for long
periods, and can show signs of the disease again if they become stressed.
Feline Chlamydia (also known as Chlamydophila)
This may cause a severe persistent conjunctivitis in up to 30% of cats. Kittens are more severely
affected by Chlamydia when also infected with “Cat Flu”, and Chlamydia can be shed for many
months. Vaccination against cat flu and Chlamydia helps protects against clinical disease.
This F4 vaccination needs to be boosted once at 10‐12 weeks of age then annually.
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FIV – FELINE AIDS.
Feline AIDS is caused by a different virus to human
AIDS and we can’t catch it, however it causes a very
similar disease in cats. It is spread by fighting and it
only takes one fight with the wrong cat to spread it.
For this reason ANY cat that goes outside should be
vaccinated for it, even if they don’t leave the backyard.
Vaccination is very effective in preventing the disease
and as kittens the vaccines may be started at the same
time as the second F4 vaccination. 2 Booster shots will then be given at 2 week intervals by one of
our qualified nurses. After this the FIV vaccination is given annually at the same time as the normal
vaccination.
In older cats a simple FIV test will need to be performed first to check if the cat has been exposed to
the virus. This is as simple as your vet collecting a drop of blood and placing it on a test kit and
waiting a few minutes for the result. Once we know your cat tests negative we can give the first of
the initial course of three vaccinations. This can all be done in your home.
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Desexing
If you’re not planning to breed your cat then we highly advise that you consider desexing. Desexing
has many health benefits including:
Reducing behaviours driven by the so called 'sex' hormones: oestrogen and testosterone.
This includes aggression, sent marking and even roaming.
Female cats coming on heat can be very annoying – constantly calling for a mate. This may
sound like they are in pain!
Removing the risk of nasty cancers like uterine and ovarian cancer as well as testicular
cancer
Reducing the risk of other tumours drastically like breast cancers.
Reducing the risk of many other diseases such as prostate infections and uterine infections
(called pyometra)
Stopping unwanted pregnancy
If you are planning to breed from your cat we highly advise that you seek advice before doing so and
get both parent animals thoroughly health checked. Consider the risk to your pet and the number of
unwanted kittens that are euthanised every year in shelters. While you might find homes for all your
kittens these owners may have adopted a pound kitty saving it from euthanasia.
Breeding is a big commitment and will need you to do a lot of research and time, especially if things
don’t go well!
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When to desex
We generally recommend desexing at around 16 weeks of age as the body is mature enough to
undergo the surgery with similar safety to that of an adult cat, however the reproductive organs are
far less developed. This means a shorter surgery, a smaller incision and a faster recovery. It also
minimises the risk that they have their first season which increases their risk of breast cancer.
At desexing we generally pick up your pet from your house in the morning and take them back to
our base clinic. They get a premedication injection that makes them relaxed and includes a strong
pain relief medication. They then have an anaesthetic very similarly to how a human would. In
injection is given into a vein that makes them sleepy, then a tube is passed into their trachea (the
tube they breathe down) and anaesthetic gas is used to keep them asleep while the procedure is
performed. Afterwards they het an antibiotic and a pain relief injection as well as some pain relief
tablets to take home.
What happens during desexing:
Females Spey: A spey is the name given to neutering a female cat. This procedure is a complete ovariohysterectomy ‐ that is we remove both ovaries and all of the uterus down to the cervix. Males Castration: A castration involves removing both testicles from a male car from two small incision made into the scrotum.
Afterwards we will return your kitty home to you.
Generally we do this on the same day. Females will
usually be fitted with an Elizabethan collar (see image on
right) to stop them chewing at their stitches which will
need to be removed in 2 weeks.
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Blood testing and Intravenous Fluids
We are proud to offer in house pre anaesthetic blood testing and intravenous fluids during all
surgeries at Vet 2 Pet.
While optional for young puppies these things allow is to increase our already high standards of
safety during you pet’s procedure. Blood testing allows us to screen for hidden disease and also
establish a normal baseline for your pet. A pre anaesthetic panel checks your pets red and white
bloods cells, platelets, blood glucose and some common indicators of live and kidney function. This
allows is to detect many concerns before they cause problems and offer the best treatment for your
pet. It also allows us to tailor the medications used during the procedure to your cat’s personal
health.
Putting your pet on intravenous fluids means placing a catheter into a vein and giving a sterile
electrolyte solution directly into the blood stream. This may also be referred to as a ‘Drip’ or ‘IV’.
This keep your pet well hydrated during their procedure and helps to replace any fluids lost and
maintain their blood pressure. This also can mean a faster recovery for your pet as it allows the
kidneys to eliminate more water and with it clear many medications.
Please feel free to discuss these options, pricing and benefits with our staff before your pet’s
procedure or when we pick your cat up.
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Pet insurance
Pet insurance is something we believe every pet owner should consider and when you get your new
kitten is the perfect time to start. This is because you are starting before any health problems arise
so they are unlikely to be excluded under your policy.
While at Vet 2 Pet we do not sell or promote any particular insurance company we do realise how
easily the right policy could save the life of your pet and pare you and your family from heartache.
Is pet insurance right for us?
We cannot answer this question for you however we do believe it is worth some thought. Ask
yourself how you would you manage if your pet was bitten by a snake or hit by a car. While these
are worst are scenarios they do happen and it is worth spending a little time thinking about what
you would do. Hospitalisation and treatment in a specialist centre can easily amount to thousands
of dollars. Pet insurance may be something worth considering just as health insurance is something
you have probably though about for yourself.
If you are looking for a policy some things we consider important to consider are:
Accident vs Accident and Illness policies – in our opinion it is best to have both. Many major issues in
pets are note defined as an ‘accident’. Look for a policy that also covers illness.
Policy limits –What you need is likely to depend on your financial situation. Some things to consider
are that injuries sustained by a car accident could easily wind up with your pet in intensive care at a
specialist centre. Avoid policies that only cover a thousand dollars a year as in many circumstances
this is not enough. While these cheaper policies are appealing they may still leave you in a
precarious situation should your pet be involved in a motor vehicle accident, eat something
particularly toxic or be bitten by a snake.
Waiting periods – Generally there is something like a one month waiting period on illness
claims. This means you need to get your policy early, before your pet becomes sick or you may find
that some things are excluded. The perfect time to get pet insurance is generally when you get your
new puppy or kitten, before any health issues have occurred.
Do your homework! A little research now may mean everything in the long run. Yes, unfortunately
this means actually reading the policy disclosure statements from a few companies so set aside
some quiet time.
When is the best time to get pet insurance?
When you first get your kitten; before it has a history of any prior problems and before something
bad happens!
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Where to find more information.
Below is a list of links to some of the companies our clients have chosen in the past. These links are
by no means exhaustive and are only intended to provide somewhere to start. For more companies
just try entering ‘pet insurance Australia’ into Google. We don’t recommend or have an affiliation
with any individual company and there are certainly more out there so have a look around and ask
your home and health insurance providers as they may offer bundled plans that often work out good
value for money.
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Grooming
If your cat is short haired you may have it easy – most short hair cats need little or no grooming as cats are very clean animals and will groom themselves.
Longer haired breeds are something we have bred for and are not generally found in the wild. This means their coats need more maintenance and will likely need to be brushed. Consider this before getting a long haired breed.
Often daily brushing will suffice but in some cases this is not possible as cat may not like it. Training them to get used to this as kittens will help but if brushing is still not possible then clipping the cats fur once or twice a year may be required.
Some cats will tolerate this with a little or no sedation however a few may need to have an anaesthetic, espescially I they are particularly matted.
We can do this as a day procedure but we do need to take them to our clinic. The type of cut is often referred to as a lion cut – as the body is short but the head (main) feet and tail are left longer as in the image to the left.
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Teeth
Kittens, like humans, have baby teeth. These fall out in the first 6 months and are replaced by adult
teeth. As most cats don’t brush their teeth it is important to develop good habits while they are
young. This means teaching them to chew a quality food with pieces large enough to cover the
whole of each tooth. (As in diagram for Hills T/D below) It is also a good idea to get your kitten used
to being touched around the mouth and having their mouth opened. This means you will be able to
pick up problems early.
Why worry about teeth?
Plenty of reasons: dental disease is the number
one medical problem in cats and dogs. One
study found that over 70% of cats will have
significant dental disease by the age of 3. This means that in these cats there is Pain, Pus, Bone loss,
Infection and or decay. This is not ok and one thing is for sure – if we do nothing it will get worse.
Your cat can’t tell you when it is in pain and it is a common misconception that a dog would not eat
if its teeth hurt. This is not true – their only other choice is starvation. In the wild a cat that shows
its weakness, including illness or pain, may be starve or be attacked.
Often the gums around problem teeth may show signs of redness, thickening, pulling back or even
puss. Bad breath is often the first thing owners report when their cat’s teeth need help. This occurs
because the gum disease is creating pus and can also lead to a smelly coat as cats lick their body to
clean themselves, spreading this around.
The best plan? Stop it before it starts!
For some cats this may simply mean a good diet but in a lot of cases some sort of
intervention will be required at some stage in their lives. Brushing is the gold
standard and even brushing only three times a week can make a huge difference.
To do this you need a soft toothbrush and a tooth paste designed for pets. These
come in a variety of flavours and brands and are available form most pet shops.
Having said this, unless started at a young age, few cats will tolerate this. If you can
train your kitten while young your are getting a great start
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Other options
There are also water additives like Aquadent that work in a similar way to mouth wash. These are
places in your pet’s water daily and are safe for them to drink unlike regular mouth wash.
Chewing can make a big difference if you cat is
a good chewer. Greenies are a good option for
cats that spend a lot of time chewing them.
Generally any chew that is gone in less than 60
seconds is not doing much
Sometimes teeth just need extra help
Even with all of this some pets, like some
people, will need to have regular teeth cleaning
by their dentist (vet).
To do this we pick your pet up and take them to our clinic where they have a
short anaesthetic. We then use an ultrasonic scaler to clean the teeth above and below the gum line,
and a special paste to polish them. This is just like what happens when you get a scale and clean at
the dentist.
It is best to do this before disease is severe as this gives the best chance of keeping your pets teeth
for their whole life! It also reduces the risk of a number of diseases such as kidney failure and heart
disease as bacteria from the teeth can get into the blood stream and end up in many places around
the body.
It has been found that pets that have healthy teeth for their whole lives actually live longer. If you
cat needs a clean don’t panic; after the clean we may then be able to make some small changes to
their lifestyle to keep them that way longer.