Graduate Theological Union

From the SelectedWorks of Carol Bier

2003

Carpets of AndalusiaCarol Bier, The Textile Museum

Available at: https://works.bepress.com/carol_bier/7/

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he fall of Granada_ in i492 reestablished Christiandominion in Spain after centuries of Islamic rule. The

rapid expansion of Islam from Arabia in the 7th

century encompassed the rich cultural legacy of the Late

Antique world, forging a unified empire throughout the MiddleEast and eastern Mediterranean lands and across North Africato Spain within a short span of several decades. Arab and Berberarmies had crossed into Spain in 7| I, generating at once an effortthat lasted for many generations to restore Christian rule. In

Islamic times, the Iberian peninsula was called ill-Zlndalus, or

Andalusia. Although we have scant evidence for early rug~

weaving, rugs woven there in the 15th and I6th centuries

represent diverse cultural traditions at a time of greatpolitical transformation.

The carpets of Andalusia, also called Spanish carpets, are amongthe oldest preserved in the world. They document a blending ofcultural traditions, both reflecting an inheritance of earlier

rug-weaving traditions and an Islamic cultural heritage (fig. I)from Turkey and Central Asia, while heralding Europe'sRenaissance (fig. 2). For the wide range of colors, carpet produc-tion depended upon the knowledge and technologies of

dyeing, for which jews held the highest reputation. Carpetproduction also relied upon sheep-rearing, and Spain's wool hadachieved commercial recognition from supplying Flanders and

England. The carpets of Andalusia thus document traditions ofconuivencia (living together), which characterized periods and

places in Spain even in times of strained relations among the

culturally diverse inhabitants of the Iberian peninsula.Rug-weaving was centered in Andalusia, the south of Spain,in areas long held by Muslims. But rug-weaving continued in

Spain after the consolidation of Christian rule. Elements of Islamic

design may be seen in the various forms of interlace,geometric patterns, and the appearance of stylized Arabic scripts.New influences may be perceived in the I6th century, drawingupon textile patterns and reflecting Europe's Renaissance styles.

Despite the diversity of design sources, Spanish carpets bear a

unique weave structure (fig. 3). The so-called Spanish knot is a

single-warp knot; each knot is wrapped around a single warp. Allother carpet-weaving traditions utilize paired warps in theconstruction of individual knots. As knots are tied on alternate

warps, their offset placement affects the possibility of creatingdiagonal lines, which is often utilized in the design. These rugshave a particularly floppy handle and are relatively lightweight for

their size in comparison to carpets from other rug-weaving tradi-

tions. This is due to the combination of several features: the

single-warp knots, which are offset, the lack of warp depression,and a relatively low knot count. The designs and patterns are

nonetheless complex, although they are achieved with a notable

economy of materials.

Carpets of Andalusia is drawn exclusively from the collections ofThe Textile Miiseum. It provides a rare opportunity to explore the

range of designs and diverse cultural traditions that contributed to

the artistic richness of Spain during the final century of Islamicrule and after completion of the Christian reconquest.

Carol Bien Research Associate, The Textile Museum

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Frcune I (Damn) Frouns 2 (DETAIL)

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mg ; ag? FIGURE 3

Ficuns I

Pile carpet with stylized floral patternThe Textile Museum I976.lO.3Museum purchase, Arthur D. jenkins Gift Fund and Acquisitions Fund

Ficuiuz 2

Pile carpet in Renaissance styleThe Textile Museum R44.00.3Acquired by George Hewitt Myers in |942

Ficums 3

Spanish (single-warp) knotDrawn by Milton Sonday in honor of Charles Grant Ellis

The Textile Museum acknowledges generous support for thisexhibition from jeremy and Hannelore Grantham, Saudi Arameo,and Sotheby's New York. I

READINGS RECOMMENDED FOR CULTURAL BACKGROUND

Ashtor Elrahyu|992 The jews of Moslem Spam jewish Publrcatron Soclety

Phrladelphra and jerusalemBarrucand Mananne and Allison Bednoy|992 Moorish Architecture rn Andalusza Taschen

Dodds jerrllyn|992 Conuwencra jews Muslims and Chrrslzans ln Medieval

Spam The jewlsh Museum and George Brazlller New York

Harvey L P|992 lslamrc Spam |250 |500 Umverslty of Chrcago Press

Ch|cago and London

jayyusr Salma Khadra ed|994 The Legacy ofMuslzm Spam 2vo|s E] Brlll Le|den

Menocal Mana Rosa2002 The Ornament of the World How Muslims jews and

Chrrstaans Created a Culture of Tolerance m Medzeual SpamLrttle Brown and Company Boston and New York

Ruggles D Farrchlld2000 Gardens landscapes and Vasron an the Palaces of Islamic

Spam Penn State Umversrty Press Llmversrty Park

THE TEXTILE l\/IUQEUM

2320 S Street, NW\ll/ashmgton DC 20008 4088

EDUCATION PROGRAMS

Lecture and Bookslgnlng The Cultural Legacy of Medreual SpamMarla Rosa Menocal

Saturday Aprll 26 2 30 pm

Movmg beyond the perceptlon of the |\/llddle Ages as an unenlrghtenedera of relrgrous persecutron Mana Rosa Menocal will reveal a trme and

place rn whrch relrgrous dufferences were transcended by a shared

respect for knowledge Iearnmg and the arts Dr Menocal drrects Yale

Llmversrty s Whrtney Humamtres Center and rs a professor of Spanrshand Portuguese Her recently publrshed book The Ornament of the

Tolerance ln Medleval Spam will be avallable for purchaseFee $7/members $l0/non members

Advance regrstratxon requrred call (202) 667 044| ext 64

Lecture Splendor m Spam The Alhambra PalaceD Farrchrld RugglesWednesday july 23 6 30 pm

The Alhambra Palace rn Granada was one of Andalusia s greattreasures built largely between the |3th and |4th centunes ln thuslecture landscape hrstorlan D Falrchlld Ruggles exam|nes the mterror

and extenor space of the Alhambra Palace provrdmg a cultural contextfor apprecuatmg the textnles In the exhnbstron Carpets of/Zlndalusza Dr

Ruggles IS a professor of landscape and architectural hxstory at theUnrvers|ty of llllnols at Urbana ChampargnFee $7/members, $10/non members

Advance regrstratron requrred, call (202) 667 044l, ext 64

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- - - World: How Muslims, jews and Christians Created a Culture of

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