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Cataloguing change: Argos catalogues in 1973 and 1998 Leigh Sparks What distinguishes Argos is its dual presence in homes where mail order catalogues are otherwise considered an inappropriate, even divisive, means of organisation and those where traditional mail order catalogues are considered a staple and respected form of consumption (Clarke, 1998, p. 90). If you ask around, most people have an Argos catalogue of some vintage in their homes. This is hardly surprising given that over 35 million are produced every year, between the two issues. They find their way into all types of households, across all social grades. Argos catalogues focus on household, consumer durables and some personal products with an emphasis on practicality. Key product categories include jewellery, furniture, toys and games and personal accessories, though as will be seen, both the categories and their composition have changed over time. Argos to some extent therefore is a barometer of British taste in certain categories of products. Argos is also one of the UK’s leading retailers, being the largest European catalogue showroom retailer, with an annual sales figure of over £2.0bn and it has been (when it was independent) a component member of the FTSE 100 index. This is quite an achievement for a business that started as an off-shoot of Green Shield trading stamps. The trading operations of Argos rely today, as they always have done, on the catalogue. Smith (1985) has provided the most succinct description of the Argos operation: A catalogue showroom business revolves around four parameters, the catalogue, the showroom, the warehouse and the customer . . .. In simple terms the customer obtains the catalogue, pre- selects merchandise which is paid for and collected at the showroom. The showroom The author Leigh Sparks is Professor of Retail Studies at the Institute for Retail Studies, University of Stirling, Scotland, UK. Keywords Catalogue retailing, Consumer, Product development Abstract Argos is Europe’s most successful catalogue showroom retailer, with annual sales of over £2.0bn. Its success is dependent on many aspects of its retail system, but arguably the key component is the requirement to get the catalogue into the hands of potential customers. The catalogues are therefore advanced selling systems in their own right, which provide information on product retailing and consumption of the time. This paper takes the first Argos catalogue of 1973/1974 and compares it with the 50th catalogue produced in 1998. Whilst using arbitrary dates and issues, the analysis allows us to consider aspects of retailing, product and consumer change. The comparison demonstrates changes in presentation techniques and merchandising. The product mix is much altered with considerable product development, both in terms of technological change and ``lifestyle’’ components. Electronic access The research register for this journal is available at http://www.mcbup.com/research_registers The current issue and full text archive of this journal is available at http://www.emerald-library.com/ft During the summer of 1999, Pamela Bremner was employed as a research assistant to put together the base material on Argos. The business story component of this paper would not have been possible without her hard work. The initial idea of looking at Argos was based on a donation of 50 or so catalogues by Martin Baker of Basingstoke. The author hopes Martin feels they have been put to good use. Missing issues were obtained via a loan of original catalogues from Argos, for which they are thanked very warmly. Colleagues at the EAERCD conference in Barcelona and the AMS/ ACRA conference in Columbus are also thanked for their encouragement and observations on presentations of portions of an earlier draft of this paper. All comments, interpretations etc. are those of the author alone and do not reflect the views of anyone else or any company such as Argos. 427 International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management Volume 29 . Number 10 . 2001 . pp. 427±441 # MCB University Press . ISSN 0959-0552
Transcript
Page 1: Cataloguing change: Argos catalogues in 1973 and 1998 · Cataloguing change: Argos catalogues in 1973 and 1998 Leigh Sparks What distinguishes Argos is its dual presence in homes

Cataloguing change:Argos catalogues in1973 and 1998Leigh Sparks

What distinguishes Argos is its dual presence inhomes where mail order catalogues are otherwiseconsidered an inappropriate, even divisive,means of organisation and those wheretraditional mail order catalogues are considereda staple and respected form of consumption(Clarke, 1998, p. 90).

If you ask around, most people have an Argoscatalogue of some vintage in their homes.This is hardly surprising given that over 35million are produced every year, between thetwo issues. They find their way into all typesof households, across all social grades. Argoscatalogues focus on household, consumerdurables and some personal products with anemphasis on practicality. Key productcategories include jewellery, furniture, toysand games and personal accessories, thoughas will be seen, both the categories and theircomposition have changed over time. Argosto some extent therefore is a barometer ofBritish taste in certain categories of products.Argos is also one of the UK’s leading retailers,being the largest European catalogueshowroom retailer, with an annual sales figureof over £2.0bn and it has been (when it wasindependent) a component member of theFTSE 100 index. This is quite anachievement for a business that started as anoff-shoot of Green Shield trading stamps.

The trading operations of Argos rely today,as they always have done, on the catalogue.Smith (1985) has provided the most succinctdescription of the Argos operation:

A catalogue showroom business revolves aroundfour parameters, the catalogue, the showroom,the warehouse and the customer . . .. In simpleterms the customer obtains the catalogue, pre-selects merchandise which is paid for andcollected at the showroom. The showroom

The author

Leigh Sparks is Professor of Retail Studies at the

Institute for Retail Studies, University of Stirling,

Scotland, UK.

Keywords

Catalogue retailing, Consumer, Product development

Abstract

Argos is Europe’s most successful catalogue showroom

retailer, with annual sales of over £2.0bn. Its success is

dependent on many aspects of its retail system, but

arguably the key component is the requirement to get the

catalogue into the hands of potential customers. The

catalogues are therefore advanced selling systems in their

own right, which provide information on product retailing

and consumption of the time. This paper takes the first

Argos catalogue of 1973/1974 and compares it with the

50th catalogue produced in 1998. Whilst using arbitrary

dates and issues, the analysis allows us to consider

aspects of retailing, product and consumer change. The

comparison demonstrates changes in presentation

techniques and merchandising. The product mix is much

altered with considerable product development, both in

terms of technological change and `̀ lifestyle’’

components.

Electronic access

The research register for this journal is available at

http://www.mcbup.com/research_registers

The current issue and full text archive of this journal is

available at

http://www.emerald-library.com/ft

During the summer of 1999, Pamela Bremner wasemployed as a research assistant to put together thebase material on Argos. The business storycomponent of this paper would not have beenpossible without her hard work. The initial idea oflooking at Argos was based on a donation of 50 orso catalogues by Martin Baker of Basingstoke. Theauthor hopes Martin feels they have been put togood use. Missing issues were obtained via a loanof original catalogues from Argos, for which theyare thanked very warmly. Colleagues at theEAERCD conference in Barcelona and the AMS/ACRA conference in Columbus are also thankedfor their encouragement and observations onpresentations of portions of an earlier draft of thispaper. All comments, interpretations etc. are thoseof the author alone and do not reflect the views ofanyone else or any company such as Argos.

427

International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management

Volume 29 . Number 10 . 2001 . pp. 427±441

# MCB University Press . ISSN 0959-0552

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replenishes stock from the warehouse, a processwhich maintains the showrooms’ ability to fulfilconsumer demand.

At the heart of this process is obviously thecatalogue and the ability of the business to getcatalogues into the hands of customers. AsSmith (1985) defines it:

(the catalogue) is pivotal to or central to ourbusiness. The catalogue is the vehicle wherebythe company principally informs the world of itsexistence, the merchandise it sells and the pricesat which the merchandise is sold. The catalogueis the vehicle whereby and through which thecompany reaches its market. It is our shopwindow.

The catalogue, therefore, plays a role as asales instrument which combines detailsabout the product and its pricing to theconsumer, as well as illustrating both what theproduct looks like and on occasions what it issuited for. Merchandise selection is thereforecritical to the business, as is the pricing of themerchandise. Merchandise needs to be ofsufficient quality and saleability and to bereadily available in order to generate highvolumes, customer satisfaction and profit.The products are therefore selected with aneye both to what will sell, and be re-orderableas (or if) demand extends over the lifetime ofthe catalogue, and priced so as to becompetitive with competing or benchmarkretailers. If as Ornstein (1976, p. 180) notes‘‘the [Argos] catalogue totally replacespersonal sales service’’ then it needs to beconsidered carefully and to present the offerthoroughly.

The catalogue is therefore a reference textof the consumer purchasing patterns inhousehold goods of the time. Each cataloguereflects anticipated product demands and thepricing points in the market. Changes in thecatalogues over time illustrate broad retailerchanges. They reflect changes in needs, wantsand consumer lifestyles and illustrate pricevolatility, changing product utility and aspectsof product replacement and new productdevelopment. They are windows on selectedpast worlds.

There are relatively few academic or otherpieces that have looked at modern cataloguesthemselves and their use. The main exceptionis the recent work by Clarke (1998) whichexamines catalogue use among selectedfamilies and considers Loot and Argos. Withrespect to Argos, Clarke (1998) identifies asocial and reference use for the catalogue

amongst families of different social groupings.She sees the Argos catalogue as ‘‘the ultimatehandbook for the inactive armchair shopper’’,‘‘a portable shop window’’, ‘‘a staple ofcontemporary living’’, ‘‘a basic resource forsocial groups precluded from mainstreamleisure-imbued formal shopping’’ or even withrespect to children as ‘‘a controllable toyshop’’. Her summary is of ‘‘a rationalised,simple value-for-money way to shop wherethe consumer is in total control’’. Argos, as aretailer, is different, but its penetration acrossgroups, its sheer ubiquity and thiscombination of functionality and aspirationmake the catalogues significant socialdocuments of their time.

A more populist treatment of the topic hasbeen undertaken by Blanchard (1999) whohas briefly examined the early Habitatcatalogues of 1969-1973 and compared themto present day interior design and living. Shefocuses on the changes in prices and thecombination of functional items alongsideiconic furniture in the early catalogues. Againhowever, there is the focus on the catalogue as‘‘a guide on how to decorate your home’’.Since the early 1970s the Habitat cataloguehas changed dramatically in its style, formatand aim. In that sense it has less to tell us thanArgos, where the basic concept has remainedthe same and the catalogues tell a story aboutproduct and other changes. The moreutilitarian Argos product mix with itsemphasis on everyday functional products,combined with its massive penetration intohouseholds, mark it out as exceptional.

Argos began in July 1973 with the launch ofthe first catalogue and 17 showrooms.Catalogues have subsequently appearedapproximately every six months. By 2000,there have been 54 issues of the corecatalogue. The entire series of catalogues hasbeen assembled by the author and aprogramme of analysis of these is underway.

It is recognised and accepted that there aremany ‘‘lenses’’ through which the analysis ofthe individual catalogues and the entire set ofcatalogues could be seen. Here, astraightforward, essentially descriptivecomparison of the first and 50th catalogues isused to ‘‘whet the appetite’’ for the fulleranalysis underway. Issues of consumer, retailand cultural change, product development,presentation (including semiotics) and pricingare amongst those that are scheduled to beundertaken in the full programme of research,

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embedding this work in wider contemporaryacademic conceptualisations.

This exploratory paper aims to provide aninitial investigation of some of these issuesabove, by a simple comparison of the first andthe 50th catalogue. These are arbitrarycatalogue issues, but they provide anopportunity to illustrate some of the scope forresearch in this area. Within this broad aimtherefore, the paper is structured into foursections. First, a brief business history ofArgos is presented to set the scene. Withinthis some reference to changing consumerswill be made. Second, the two catalogues willbe subject to a comparison reflecting onaspects of changing design, format andproduct introduction and deletion. Third, aquantitative analysis of aspects of thecatalogues and product mix will be presented.Finally, some conclusions will be drawn andpotential lines for further research enquirywill be developed.

Argos – a brief business history

Argos in business control terms can beconsidered as having undergone four distinctphases (a fuller explanation of these is given inSparks, 2001). These are considered brieflyhere (Figure 1). Operational aspects of the1980s Argos can also be found in Smith(1985) and Walters (1989). Brokers reports(e.g. County Nat West, 1989, 1992; Nat WestMarkets, 1998) also provide succinctsummaries of strategic strengths and options.

The first phase, that of foundation andindependence ran from 1973 until takeover in1980. Argos was launched in 1973 with 17showrooms based primarily around London.The idea was developed by RichardTompkins, the Green Shield Stampsentrepreneur and for the initial few years therewere close ties between Argos and the GreenShield Stamps business. As with many start-ups, the initial years were rocky, although bythe time Green Shield Stamps were droppedby Tesco in 1977, Argos was on reasonablyfirm foundations. The launch was followed byoperational and logistical supply difficultiesand, with hindsight, was not very timely giventhe oil crisis and other ensuing economicproblems. The approach of the new companywas to be different and distinct in format, butfocused additionally on discount prices.

The initial catalogue was aspirational aboutthe business, but the hyperbole of the launchwas not matched by trading reality. As a resultof the wider economic problems, subsequentcatalogues were smaller and had fewerproducts and this reduction process onlyreversed as the business became firmlyestablished. In that sense, the first catalogue isatypical but does represent what the fledglingbusiness thought it could achieve, andprovides a wide reflection of consumerproducts at the time.

By 1979, the Argos business was anestablished and successful one, tradingthrough 91 showrooms, with sales and profitexpansion and an increasing geographicalcoverage. The initial problems of setting upthe business had been overcome and thebusiness model had been refined andadditional showrooms added. RichardTompkins however was in ill-health anddecided to sell the business for c. £35m toBritish American Tobacco (BAT) Industriesas part of their diversification strategy.

Phase Two in business terms is thus aperiod of control by BAT, with Argosoperating as a business unit within theconglomerate. This period lasted for thewhole of the 1980s and saw a dramatic,indeed almost relentless, expansion of thebusiness and rising success. BAT effectivelylet Argos do its own thing, and this it achievedvery successfully.

In terms of the catalogues, the twice-yearlypattern was now established and the size ofthe catalogues and the number of lines beganto expand. Over the 1980s the number of

The four phases of business development in Argos

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lines tripled from the lowest point of the1970s to over 5,000. Brand penetrationbecame more apparent with higher qualityand better known brands introduced. Withinthe catalogues the layout became clearer andthe format became more standardised andordered. From a customer perspective,catalogues looked and felt the same,facilitating use. It is during this period thatArgos became ubiquitous, regardless oflocation, age, gender or social group. Nationalcoverage of showrooms was achieved and in-filling of sites became a core strategy.Showroom format development (e.g.superstore showrooms) was tried, reflectingboth the desire to be national and thechanging UK retail location patterns. Thekeys to Argos’ success, the offer of brandedgoods in a convenient manner, through acomprehensive catalogue and in localshowrooms, had by the end of the 1980spositioned Argos not as a discount retailer,but as a leading retailer on both price andconvenience.

By 1989, Argos had 251 showrooms,produced over 23 million catalogues annuallyand the catalogue’s status as a commonhousehold reference book was assured. AtBAT, however, things were less rosy and anunwelcome hostile takeover bid, aimed atsplitting up the conglomerate, forced BAT todesperate measures. As part of its defensestrategy Argos was sold to its managementthrough a de-merger in 1990 for £600m.After a decade of hands-off control, Argosbecame technically independent.

Argos was listed on the London StockExchange in April 1990 and its third phase,independence, commenced, although timingwas again an issue, with the UK moving intorecession in the early 1990s after the glorydays of the 1980s. The independence periodof 1990-1998 is characterised by swings ofbusiness fortune, with weak periods at thestart and end, but a golden period in the mid1990s which saw Argos break the £1bn salesbarrier and enter the FTSE 100 index. Thiswas followed, however, by some operationaldifficulties and poor trading with profitssliding and two poor Christmas periods in arow.

The catalogue however maintained itsfunction. The number of lines continued toexpand and the number of pages in thecatalogue increased still further. The formatremained, but the level of product

information was enhanced. The productcategories remain broadly the same, butexpansions have occurred, linked in somecases to the development of direct and homedelivery services. The importance of thecatalogue to the business format has beennoted before. County Nat West (1989)reported that 95 per cent of all buyers pre-select their products from the cataloguebefore visiting the showroom. Catalogueavailability is thus crucial and in 1998 (whichincluded the 50th issue) some 36 million wereprinted.

As a public company, Argos shares weretraded on the London Stock Exchange. Thepoor results for 1997, with a big decline inprofits, saw the share price fall in early 1998to its lowest level for four years. As the shareprice fell so far, a hostile bid was not entirelyunexpected and in March 1998, GUS plclaunched such a bid valuing Argos at £1.6bn,and arguing that Argos had lost its way. Anacrimonious battle ensued, but an enhancedbid of £1.9bn saw Argos become part of theGUS mail order empire.

The fourth phase of business developmentis thus as part of a major mail order retailer.As the 50th catalogue pre-dates this, thisphase is of less relevance here. Since takeover,GUS have developed the store formats andlocations, changed the catalogue size andbreadth further and re-organised Argos into amulti-channel retailer. Ancillary catalogues(e.g. clothing) have also been trialled as wellas Web-based and interactive TV operations.By mid 2000 Argos was trading through 448showrooms in the UK and 12 showrooms inthe Republic of Ireland. Annual salesexceeded £2.0bn. Argos had become criticalto the GUS home shopping operation,providing 26 per cent of all of GUS profits.

These phases of business ownershipconditioned the operations of the companyand affected the development of the businessto its present position. The two cataloguesselected here for comparison are reflective ofboth the position at the time and to someextent the development of the concept. Thefirst catalogue produced in mid 1973 was anaspirational document for the business,reflecting what Tompkins wanted Argos tobe. Business realities constraineddevelopment for the next three years until thebasics were right. The first catalogue is thus asnapshot of 1973 and the consumer positionbefore the oil crisis and adverse economic

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issues really hit. The 50th catalogue from1998 (Autumn/Winter 1998 – published inJune 1998) reflects the position in the late1990s. Whilst produced when the companywas owned by GUS, the time lags fordevelopment meant that the catalogue wasprepared by the Argos management. It isreflective of the late 1990s, but did have quitea lot of product changes from previouscatalogues as there was a conscious attemptby the Argos management to refresh theproduct mix given poor performance in 1996/1997.

Neither catalogue is thus the ‘‘perfect’’issue, although it is doubtful if such athing really exists. The research into thefull series of catalogues will provide a bettersense of the dimensions and components ofchange. However, despite the somewhatarbitrary timings, the exploration of thefirst and the 50th catalogues provides acomparison of two situations and times thatallow some discussion of changing retailing,products, design, pricing and consumers totake place.

The period between 1973 and 1998 is not astatic one in terms of consumer desires, wantsand spending power and we would expect thecatalogues to reflect elements of this. Forexample, the 1980s boom period for manyretailers saw considerable expansion inconsumer desires and spending, particularlyassociated with non-food products. Thecontinuation of processes of fragmentation ofdemand and ‘‘lifestyle’’ developments can beexpected to be reflected in the product mixand product characteristics in the catalogues.Other changes of product would likely reflectchanging social mores and technologicalsophistication. In a different field, theintroduction of the Next Directory in the1980s, as part of the transformation ofHepworths into Next, reflected the change inlifestyle and the need to shake up traditionalbusiness and mail order practices. Over thequarter of a century between the two Argoscatalogues, both what is acceptable toconsumers and what is possible for them havechanged.

A visual comparison

The first obvious difference in the cataloguesis simply the size. The 1973 catalogue is aconsiderably larger document in dimension

terms (290 235mm) compared to the 1998catalogue (255 205mm) although theformer has fewer pages (252 vs 586). Theimplications of these dimensions areconsidered later. The size change occurred atissue 4, and since then the size has beenmaintained. The strap line on the 1973 coveris ‘‘buy it at Argos and pocket the difference’’,whilst in 1998 it is ‘‘choice, value, quality –it’s not just money you save’’, which, whilstrather less clear, does attempt to portray amessage not solely focused on price. The logoused in both cases is demonstrably the samefont and design although the colour and sizeis different. The introductory pages are verydifferent in presentation with a psychedelicstyle font and colours used in 1973 comparedto a much more standard textual approach in1998 (Figure 2). It is also notable that there ismuch more emphasis in 1973 on theopportunity to see the merchandise in store.Indeed a picture of a store interior is providedwhich makes Argos look much more similarto any other shop than is the case today.There is also emphasis in 1973 on the‘‘newness’’ of the concept, but combined withan emphasis on the detailed logistical back-upavailable, reflecting the desire to givecustomers confidence about availability andpurchasing. In this respect the Argosguarantee is prominent.

Other aspects of the 1970s retailing stylecome through in the widespread use ofmanufacturer’s recommended prices as aprice comparator and thus an emphasis on themoney saved, the need to display and explaincredit cards and in the credit availability. Inthe latter case, a formal application had to bemade and the applicant was informed if theyhad been successful in writing some timelater. This time-lag between application andproduct availability has been removed overthe years with the availability of instantdecisions or credit.

The second obvious visual difference isapparent when the product presentation isexamined. There is a real difference on anyone page in the balance of the page given overto text as opposed to pictures of the product.In the 1973 catalogue, there is much morespace given over to text than in 1998 wherethe pictures dominate any page (see jewelleryexample in Figure 3). This is not a feature ofthe amount of information given, although ofcourse in 1998 direct comparison with‘‘manufacturer’s prices’’ is not allowed, but

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Volume 29 . Number 10 . 2001 . 427±441

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rather seems to stem from a desire to have thisbalance and to maintain readability.Whatever, the difference is instantly apparentand gives a very different feel to thecatalogues.

This sense of difference reflects differencesin approach between 1973 and 1998. Twoaspects of this are focused on the discussionbelow. First, aspects of merchandising (in thesense of visual merchandising) are

Figure 2 Typeface variations

Figure 3 Product density in jewellery

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Volume 29 . Number 10 . 2001 . 427±441

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considered, before some comparison of theproducts and the ‘‘lifestyle’’ of consumers isattempted.

In addition to the balance between productdescriptions and photographs on any page,there is a clear difference in the way in whichproducts are presented between the twocatalogues. The photographs in the 1998catalogue have a much more vivid and ‘‘alive’’feel to them. This may be due in part toadvances in printing and photographictechnology but it also would seem to reflectthe ‘‘merchandising’’ skills of the cataloguecompilers. The 1973 catalogue is much moreof a product listing, accompanied by somestraight-on shots of individual products. Bythe 1998 catalogue, the sense is of productpresentation supported by some text. This isillustrated by the much more comprehensiveand common use in the 1998 catalogue ofroom sets in which products are groupedtogether. In 1973 this occurs but once in theentire catalogue, and then the effect issomewhat upset by the presence of a mini-skirted model. A further illustration is the wayin which toilet seats are integral to a room setin 1998, and actually appear on a toilet,whereas in 1973 the seats are simplyphotographed ‘‘free-floating’’ (Figure 4).There thus appears to be a clear developmentof merchandising sophistication between thetwo catalogues.

This is also reflected in the productinformation provided. This is almost totallynon-existent in 1973, whereas by 1998 it is alarge component of the presentation of somecategories. Some of this is undoubtedly due tothe present need to help consumers withcertain products e.g. power tools,communications devices, etc. and is areflection of more technologically-richproducts, which require more productexplanation. There is also a sense, however, ofthe need to provide guidance and assistanceto the consumer about the use of products asthe ‘‘service’’ expectation of consumers hasrisen. Some of this information is providedtextually, but other information is found inthe product combinations and situations inthe photographs. Indeed much more of thephotographic material shows products in userather than as an object that could be used(Figure 5). It may also be the case that forsome products the legal requirements havealtered. The child’s bunk bed in 1998contains the following statement in the

product description for example: ‘‘(top bunknot recommended for children under 6 yearsold). Height of space under bed 140cm.Complies with the requirements of UK BunkBeds (entrapment hazards) (SafetyRegulations 1987) and the EuropeanStandard EN747-1’’.

As perhaps might be anticipated from thecomments above, there is also an expansion ofthe number of people represented in thecatalogue. Whilst some models are used in1973, these are relatively few and far between.They also conform to particular stereotypes inthat women are shown using hairdryers and inshowers and are generally naked in the latter,whereas the men appear in the sports sectionmodelling tracksuits, although there is alsosome female presence here. By 1998 there ismuch more use of models and thestereotyping is a little less obvious, althoughmen appear up ladders fixing the house whilstwomen are pegging out washing. In the lattercase there is a woman in a wheelchair and in anumber of other cases the male models areblack, perhaps suggesting a more inclusivesociety. The main use of male and femalemodels in 1998 is in sections such as sunbeds(a product not known in 1973) and sports andleisure. In terms of sport, the models are muchmore obviously fit and the image portrayed isa very different one to 1973 (Figure 6).

In addition to the style of themerchandising between the two catalogues,there is also a clear difference in themerchandising itself. Most obviously thisoccurs in terms of product development andenhancement but is also seen in thewithdrawal of products. The quantitativecategory composition of the catalogues isexamined later, with the emphasis hereinstead on the qualitative aspects revealed. Inaddition, the penetration of brands andcertain product types and aspects does allowsome commentary on lifestyle changes.

The product development aspect is obviousby considering categories that have expandedor have been introduced since 1973. Forexample, whole categories such ascommunications simply did not exist thenand products such as mobile telephones, faxesand personal computers were unknown.Digital watches are another product thatsimply did not exist in 1973, as withcalculators and digital cameras. Microwavesand dehumidifiers also point to productdevelopment, but also hint at lifestyle changes

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in the population. Similarly, the concept of apersonal sunbed did not seem possible in1973. Also hinting at changing attitudes is thelarger household and car security sections in1998. Pages of security lighting, alarms andcrook locks for cars show how the crime levelsin society have been reflected in productdevelopment in the catalogue.

Whilst not so problematic as security, othercategories such as DIY demonstrate the

growth of certain product categories and theway in which leisure time has been altered.The expansion of DIY and the need for powertools as household activity replaces tradesmenis also reflected in the large expansion of thefurniture category. Whilst some of this isstandard, assembled furniture, much is flat-pack for home assembly reflecting the changein this market and the switch from a craft to acommodity product. Another leisure style

Figure 4 Presentation style

Figure 5 Useful objects or objects to use?

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change is the large number of productsdeveloped in the sports area, focusing onaspects of personal fitness and exercise. Thisseems, from the 1998 catalogue however, tobe a female activity with the ‘‘serious’’machines occupied by males. Again, however,the concept of in-home activity of this typewould be seen as ludicrous in 1973, whencricket bats and pads and other outside‘‘games’’ equipment was more the norm.

The removal of products from the cataloguein 1998 compared to 1973 also shows some ofthe changes in society. Perhaps the mostdramatic examples of this are cigarettelighters (and ashtrays) and guns (air rifles andpistols). Whilst available in 1973, by 1998these items are no longer for sale, and neitheris the 1973 harpoon gun. Less dramatically,and more reflective of style changes, the 1973fibre optic lamps are no longer for sale,although proud owners of an original couldprobably get a good price in antique sales forthem now!

In merchandising lifestyle terms, one otherchange that comes through in a comparison ofthe catalogues is the ‘‘modern’’ prevalence forbrand linking and product placements. Whilstfront-line brands are present in 1973 (e.g.Kodak cameras) there is a sense in which the

brand position is kept low-key. By 1998 this isnot the case and branding is much stronger(e.g. Lego) and is also much more overt.There is also much more brand or productassociation. Children’s bedding provides aparticular illustration of this (Figure 7).Duvets (not found in 1973) dominate, butthey tend to be associated with films (e.g. StarWars), cartoon characters from television(e.g. Teletubbies) or football teams (e.g.Manchester United). It is noticeable howmuch product is focused on what we haveseen, rather than the inherent utility of theproduct itself.

This is also identifiable in other lifestyleways. Some indications of changing lifestylehave been mentioned above. However, othermore subtle ones exist as well. In household/kitchen appliances, for example, there is astrong emphasis on colour co-ordination oftoasters, kettles, etc., whereas in 1973 theseproducts were strictly utilitarian and came ina ‘‘one type suits all’’ approach. In 1998, thechoices of colour are dramatic, reflecting bothproduct development and also the search forco-ordinated lifestyle statements (Figure 8).

Such qualitative comparisons provide somethoughts about the changes that haveoccurred in society between the two catalogue

Figure 6 Role models?

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Figure 7 Product and brand extension

Figure 8 Lifestyle statements

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dates. It is instructive as well, however, toconsider a more quantitative analysis of theconstruction of the catalogues.

A quantitative analysis of the 1973 and1998 catalogues

The catalogues lend themselves to a variety ofsimple quantitative measures in examiningchange between the two issues. Table Iprovides the base data for the catalogues as awhole. As the table shows, there has been a133 per cent increase in the number of pagesin the catalogue between the two issues. The1998 catalogue is a much more solid issue,with its almost 600 pages. Within these pages,there is obviously a domination of productpresentation, but the increase in corporateinformation such as guarantees, sizing,ordering, home delivery, etc. in 1998 isnoticeable. Product numbers have also risenbetween the two issues with an increase of 44per cent in the number of products in 1998. Itmust be noted, however, that the number ofproducts in this first tissue was a highpoint forthe first few years, as the economic andoperational circumstances forced a re-thinkon product numbers. It is also clear that theproduct density on the pages has fallen overthe two issues, with much fewer products perpage in 1998. In part, as noted below, this isdue to the mix of product categories, but it isalso due to the changing presentation style asindicated earlier. It also has to beremembered that the size of the cataloguepages has fallen between the issues by about23 per cent, although given the increase inpages, actual available space has risen by 78per cent. The figures on product density inTable I, therefore, do need to be scaled downa little to reflect the decline in page size.However, the decline in product density per

page is a real one, associated primarily withpromotional techniques, including the needfor more product information.

Table II provides details of the make-up ofeach catalogue by considering thecontribution each category makes inpercentage terms for both number of pagesand number of items. In the main, thecategories are clearly defined in each issue,but there have been some changes over timeand more categories are now found in morethan one place. This table forms the basis ofTables III and IV and discussion. What isapparent from Table II itself is the variation incategory/product density. For example,jewellery takes up relatively few pages but is alarge proportion of the items or products.Furniture or white goods demonstrate theopposite relationship between space anditems, as might be anticipated.

Table III identifies measures of categoryimportance in each of the two issues. Anumber of points can be made about this tableand the relationships it reveals. First, thecatalogues have become increasinglydominated in terms of both pages and productsby a few large categories. The concentrationratio at the CR3 level for 1973 is much smallerthan that in 1998. Over 40 per cent of bothlines and products in 1998 are found in threecategories. Moreover, these three categoriesare the same – jewellery, toys and games andfurniture – for both page and productcategories. This suggests a fundamentalchange in the make up of the catalogue and inthe merchandising and presentation of somecategories (in particular jewellery).

Second, the categories that are important inboth item and page terms are different. Initem terms there are three different cases in1998 compared to 1973. The two categorieswhich are the same are jewellery and personalaccessories, whilst the other categories havechanged. The same change process is foundin page terms with one category common(personal accessories) and four different. Thecategories that have become particularlyimportant in 1998 are toys and games andfurniture. Third, we might read somethinginto the categories that have fallen away since1973. These included dining/entertaining andkitchen accessories as well as sports andleisure. These changes could be held to reflectthe decline of aspects of society and changesto eating and food consumption as well as the

Table I Macro-analysis of catalogues

Catalogue 11973

Catalogue 501998

Number of pages 252 588

Pages of product 241 549.5

Pages of information 11 (4.3) 38.5 (6.5)

Number of items 4417 6344

Items per product page(average) 18.3 11.5

Notes: Each product that has a separate catalogue number is counted asone item. Percentages are shown in parentheses

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adoption of a more sedentary lifestyle overall,

(or perhaps a different form of leisure).Table IV examines the changes in products

and items at the category level and includes

both percentage (i.e. contribution) changesand the changes (in direction only) in thenumber of pages and items. This is to capturethe concept that, whilst page concentration in

Table II Catalogue composition

1973 1998% of pages % of items % of pages % of items

Bathroom accessories 2.6 2.6 1.7 1.7

Bedding 4.1 3.7 2.0 2.0

Clocks and watches 5.0 5.0 4.4 4.9

Communications ± ± 3.0 1.8

Dining/Entertaining 8.3 8.7 3.1 3.8

DIY 3.3 3.5 3.4 3.1

Furnishings/household accessories 5.8 5.4 4.0 4.5

Furniture 3.3 2.7 15.4 12.6

Gardening 4.2 3.7 0.8 0.9

Gifts 1.2 1.4 ± ±

Heating 2.5 2.2 1.3 0.9

Household small electricals 3.0 2.0 4.2 3.8

Household white goods 4.1 1.7 0.6 0.4

Jewellery 4.6 10.3 8.9 18.7

Kitchen accessories 6.2 6.7 3.4 2.3

Lighting 2.5 3.0 1.3 1.6

Luggage 1.7 2.0 0.4 0.5

Nursery 2.1 1.0 1.2 0.9

Office equipment 3.3 2.6 2.6 2.4

Personal accessories 7.5 6.7 5.8 5.7

Pets accessories 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1

Photographic equipment 2.9 3.1 1.9 1.6

Sound and vision 5.0 4.2 5.9 4.8

Sports and leisure 7.2 7.7 5.0 4.1

Toys and games 4.5 5.6 16.7 14.5

Vacuum cleaners 1.2 0.9 1.1 0.8

Vehicle accessories 3.7 3.4 1.8 1.4

Notes: This categorisation derives from the categories used by Argos in their own product descriptions

Table III Category importance

1973 1998

Category importance by items (percentage)Jewellery 10.3 Jewellery 18.7

Dining/entertaining 8.7 Toys and games 14.5

Sports and leisure 7.7 Furniture 12.6

Personal accessories 6.7 Personal accessories 5.7

Kitchen accessories 6.7 Clocks and watches 4.9

CR3 26.7 CR3 45.8

Category importance by pages (percentage)Dining/entertaining 8.3 Toys and games 16.7

Personal accessories 7.5 Furniture 15.4

Sports and leisure 7.7 Jewellery 8.9

Kitchen accessories 6.2 Sound and vision 5.9

Furnishings and household accessories 5.8 Personal accessories 5.8

CR3 23.5 CR3 41.0

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a category may have increased, this does notnecessarily mean that the numbers of pages inthe category may have increased, and viceversa. Thus, for example, in the lightingcategory the absolute number of pages hasincreased, but the overall percentagecontribution of these pages to the cataloguehas declined considerably.

The table is of interest in a number of ways.First, it highlights those categories that havehigh contribution changes and thus itreinforces the earlier discussion. It is clear thatthere are massive increases in contributionterms in the categories of furniture, toys andgames, jewellery and to a lesser extent insound and vision and small electrical items.Although, in the latter case, it is notable thatthe item percentage contribution has risenmore than the page contribution, whichhighlights this category as one undergoingproduct and/or presentational changes.

Second, it highlights those categories whichhave declined considerably in contributionterms. Given the dramatic expansion of

certain categories noted above, such declineswould be anticipated and would be expectedto be numerically more dominant thanincreases. This is the case, but even so thevery high declines in household white goods,gardening and luggage are perhaps a surprise.Third, and most of interest, however, arethose categories where there are changes inthe absolute number of pages and items thatmove in different directions. Again, theserepresent categories where there has beenpossibly some more fundamentalpresentational change or product change.Thus, for example, gardening has an increasein the absolute number of pages, but adecrease in the absolute number of items,probably reflecting changes in the sizecomposition of the products, e.g. large tools.Other categories where there is this differenceinclude bathroom accessories, bedding,heating, kitchen accessories, lighting, nursery,photographic equipment, sports and leisureand vehicle accessories. An examination ofthese categories suggests that it is the size

Table IV Changes by category

Pages ItemsPercentage Number Percentage Number

Bathroom accessories ±35 + ±27 ±

Bedding ±51 + ±46 ±

Clocks and watches ±12 + +2 +

Communications ± ±

Dining/entertaining ±63 ± ±56 ±

DIY +3 + ±11 +

Furnishings/household accessories ±31 + ±17 +

Furniture +367 + +366 +

Gardening ±81 + ±76 ±

Gifts ± ±

Heating ±48 + ±59 ±

Household small electricals +40 + +90 +

Household white goods ±85 ± ±76 ±

Jewellery +93 + +82 +

Kitchen accessories ±45 + -65 ±

Lighting ±48 + ±47 ±

Luggage ±76 ± ±75 ±

Nursery ±43 + ±10 ±

Office equipment ±21 + ±6 +

Personal accessories ±22 + ±15 +

Pets accessories ±50 n/c ±67 n/c

Photographic equipment ±34 + ±48 ±

Sound and vision +18 + +14 +

Sports and leisure ±31 + ±47 ±

Toys and games +271 + +159 +

Vacuum cleaners ±8 + ±11 +

Vehicle accessories -51 + ±59 ±

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changes in the product mix which account forthese results, with in some cases a process ofsize reduction going on and in others sizeincreases. Product innovation also occurs insome categories, e.g. the introduction ofhome fitness equipment, de-humidifiers,digital cameras, etc.

Conclusions

The comparison between the Argoscatalogues of 1973 and 1998 presented hereprovides an opportunity to consider thecomponents of social, economic andtechnological change over the interveningquarter of a century. The consistency ofbusiness approach of the company, thecentrality of the catalogue to the businessmodel, its prevalence across society and itsregularity of production provide a source ofmaterial perhaps unparalleled and certainlyunexplored before. Argos is indeed areference book for British consumer taste, inthe broadest possible sense. This paper hasscratched the surface of this resource by itssimple comparison of the first and the 50thcatalogues. It is readily accepted that muchmore can be done, utilising a full analysis ofthe resource and embedding the discussion incontemporary conceptual debates. This isunderway.

The study presented here demonstrates atleast three components of change:(1) There has been a change in the way in

which products are presented betweenthe catalogues. This is not only, dueperhaps, to a combination of businesssophistication and technical ability, butalso to the increasing expectations ofconsumers to engage more with the‘‘store’’ and the products. The size andstyle of presentation has altered, withmore focus on product information,provided both textually and in thephotographs. Consumers perhaps needthis support more than they did in the1970s, although it may be that some ofthe information reflects changing legalrequirements. Other informationdemonstrates the enhancement ofservices, e.g. ring and reserve, homedelivery, wedding list. In short, thecatalogues are now much more of aselling technique than they werepreviously.

(2) There is also a clear change in theproduct mix both between and withincategories. Some products have becomeeither obsolete or unacceptable over time.Others have been introduced to reflecteither consumer change (see below) orincreasing technological sophistication orother technical or technologicaldevelopments. The comparisondemonstrates the fundamental alterationto the product availability and choiceconfronting consumers. Even in the mostmundane of categories, choice hasbroadened and consumers have afundamentally different decision to makeamongst the product range.

(3) The consumers themselves have changedand this is reflected within the categories.The changing emphasis amongstcategories reflects how lifestyles havealtered. Some reflect the broader societalchanges underway, e.g. leisure productsand aspects of personal health and fitness,whereas other changes suggest a moreindividual choice set, but within thisbroader emphasis on ‘‘lifestyle’’. Productsare therefore, even in an Argos catalogue,now likely to have an emphasis on designand image as well as the traditional focuson functionality. Co-ordination anddesign are much more prevalent now,reflecting this substantial change in needsand wants across the country.

Whilst there are undoubtedly other facets ofthe comparison that could be developed, thethree change components identified abovewould seem sufficient here, given thesomewhat initial arbitrary comparison ofthese two catalogues. They do suggest,however, that there is much scope for furtherwork utilising the entire set of catalogues. It isclear that the outcomes identified here couldbe pursued much more thoroughly by thismore extensive investigation of these twocatalogues, and of the full set of catalogues.Aspects of presentation, product andconsumer change could all be consideredmore deeply and placed in a much strongeranalytical framework and context, coveringboth business and consumer change.Advanced economic questions over the price,quality, value and utility of selected productscould be considered. Visual presentation andmerchandising methods could be examinedfrom a variety of perspectives. Selectedcategories could be considered in much greaterdetail. Representation of products and people

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could be investigated further. In short, thispaper has suggested that the assembled datasource can shed valuable light on consumer,retailer, marketing and product changes overthe last quarter of the twentieth century.

References

Blanchard, T. (1999), `̀ Now and then’’, The ObserverMagazine, 29 August, pp. 50-3.

Clarke, A.J. (1998), `̀ Window shopping at home:classifieds, catalogues and new consumer skills’’, inMiller, D. (Ed.), Material Cultures ± Why SomeThings Matter, UCL Press, London, pp. 73-99.

County Nat West (1989), `̀ Argos distributors’’,Marketplace 1, Vol. IV, County NatWest Securities,London.

County Nat West (1992), Argos PLC: Smooth Operator,County Nat West, London.

Nat West Markets (1998), Argos, Nat West Markets,

London.Ornstein, E. (1976), The Retailers, Associated Business

Programmes, London.Smith, M.J. (1985), `̀ Managing distribution to gain

competitive advantage ± the Argos experience’’,

paper presented at The Institute of PhysicalDistribution Management and Centre for Physical

Distribution Management, National Conference,

May.Sparks, L. (2001), `̀ A catalogue of success? Argos and

catalogue showroom retailing’’, paper currently

under review with another journal ± copy availablefrom the author.

Walters, D. (1989), Strategic Retailing Management: A

Case Study Approach, Prentice-Hall, HemelHempstead.

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